FR3144519A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a wax, a nonionic surfactant of the (C14-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycoside type, an ether hydrocarbon oil and water - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one wax, at least one nonionic surfactant of the (C14-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycoside type, at least one ether hydrocarbon oil and water. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers in which such a composition is applied to said fibers, as well as the use of this composition for the care of keratin fibers, in particular hair. The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a wax, a nonionic surfactant of the (C14-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycoside type, an ether hydrocarbon oil and water.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one wax, at least one nonionic surfactant of the (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl) (poly)glycoside type, at least one ether hydrocarbon oil and water.

The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres in which such a composition is applied to said fibres, as well as the use of this composition for the care of keratin fibres, in particular hair.

The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair.

Consumers, regardless of their hair type, and particularly those with curly or frizzy hair, are looking to control the shape of their hair and in particular to avoid the appearance of frizz.

Humidity is often the cause of frizz. It comes from the loss of water from damp hair to its environment. Since ambient air is drier than damp hair, a flow of steam is created from the hair to its environment.

Although there are many anti-frizz treatment formulas, they generally do not provide hair with entirely satisfactory and long-lasting cosmetic properties. In fact, these formulas often give hair an unnatural, greasy, frozen appearance, as well as unpleasant effects to the touch, including a rough or greasy feel. In addition, on curly or frizzy hair, these formulas do not always provide good curl definition.

There are also mechanical and chemical solutions to limit frizz, such as straightening or smoothing. However, these solutions often lead to weakening or even degradation of the hair fibers.

Thus, there is a real need to develop a care composition that can control the volume and shape of the hair, in particular to limit the appearance of frizz, in a sustainable manner, while providing good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibers, such as a natural appearance, discipline, softness and shine.

This aim is achieved by the present invention which notably relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more waxes,
- one or more nonionic surfactants (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl)(poly)glycosides,
- one or more hydrocarbon ether oils, and
- water.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible to give an anti-frizz effect to the keratin fibers, with a natural, non-frozen appearance of the hair. This effect is also long-lasting throughout the day.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to confer good cosmetic properties on keratin fibers, in particular in terms of smoothness to the touch and visually, softness, shine, discipline. In particular, on curly or frizzy hair, it makes it possible to obtain well-defined, bouncy and defined curls.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain improved ease of detangling, as well as a long-lasting conditioning effect.

The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above.

Another subject of the present invention concerns the use of the composition as defined above for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

Another subject of the present invention relates to the use of the composition as defined above for reducing frizz in keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly from reading the description and the examples.

In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:
- the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and may be substituted for it;
- the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included;
- by “keratin fibers” according to the present application, we mean human keratin fibers, and more particularly hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). The fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The waxes
The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

The melting temperature of waxes preferably ranges from 50°C to 150°C, more particularly from 60°C to 110°C.

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugar cane fibre waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfalfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petrolatum, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

We can also cite microcrystalline waxes from _C2 to _C60 , such as Microwax HW.

We can also mention polyethylene waxes marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene or under the reference Performa SW 100 synthetic wax by the company Nucera solutions.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As wax, it is also possible to use a C ₂₀ to C ₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; we can cite in particular carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

Preferably, the wax(es) are chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Alfalfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; polyethylene waxes; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the wax(es) are chosen from beeswax, modified beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total content of the wax(es) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably ranges from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of the wax(es) chosen from beeswax or modified beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene wax and mixtures thereof, less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two different waxes. More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one beeswax and Candelilla wax.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises beeswax and Candelilla wax in a total content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactants (C14-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycoside
The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl) (poly)glycosides.

By “alkyl(poly)glycoside” is meant an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside also called alkylglycoside in the present application, which can be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably C2 to C4.

The nonionic surfactants (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl) (poly)glycosides which can be used according to the invention are advantageously chosen from the compounds of the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 14 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 14 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 24 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactants chosen from (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl)(poly)glycosides are compounds of formula described above in which:
- R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 16 to 24 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

The nonionic surfactants (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl) (poly)glycosides are preferably chosen from (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl) polyglycosides, more preferably from (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl) polyglucosides, more preferably still from cetearyl (poly)glucoside (INCI name: cetearyl glucoside), arachidyl (poly)glucoside (INCI name: arachidyl glucoside) and mixtures thereof.

Commercial products include products sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB, products sold by SEPPIC under the trade names Montanov® 68, Montanov® 68 MB or Montanov® 202, or products sold by BASF under the trade name Emulgade® PL 68/50.

Preferably, the total content of the nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of cetearyl glucoside ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrocarbon ether oils
The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon ether oils.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “oil” means any fatty substance in liquid form at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression “hydrocarbon oil” covers a single or a mixture of several hydrocarbon oils.

The hydrocarbon ether oil may be volatile or non-volatile and preferably is non-volatile.

Such an ether hydrocarbon oil is an oil of formula R ₁ OR ₂ in which R ₁ and R ₂ independently of one another denote a linear, branched or cyclic C ₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl group, the sum of the carbon atoms of R ₁ and R ₂ being greater than or equal to 8; preferably a C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl group. It may be preferable for R ₁ and R ₂ to be identical.

As the linear alkyl group, there may be mentioned a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undodyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.

As the branched alkyl group, there may be mentioned a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

As the cyclic alkyl group, cyclohexyl group, 3-methylcyclohexyl group and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group may be mentioned.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil(s) chosen from the ethers are chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the ether hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether and mixtures thereof.

More preferably still, the hydrocarbon ether oil is dicaprylyl ether.

Preferably, the total content of the ether hydrocarbon oil(s) ranges from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total dicaprylyl ether content ranges from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Water
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises water.

Preferably, the total water content is greater than or equal to 50% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 70% by weight, more preferably still ranges from 70 to 95% by weight, better still ranges from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Liquid fats
The cosmetic composition of the invention may optionally further comprise one or more fatty substances having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa). In other words, these fatty substances are liquid at atmospheric pressure, and are not in the solid state.

These liquid fatty bodies are different from the hydrocarbon ether oils as described above.

In the present application, this or these fatty substances are also called “liquid fatty substances” or “oil(s)”.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substances usable in the present invention are non-silicone.

The term “non-silicone fat” means a fat containing no Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fat” means a fat containing at least one Si-O bond.

More particularly, the fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are chosen from liquid _C6 to _C16 hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, alkyl or alkylene carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. As an example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, we can cite perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

With regard to fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the Company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the Company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the Company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the Company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C ₁ to C ₂₆ or branched in C ₃ to C ₂₆ and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C ₁ to C ₂₆ or branched in C ₃ to C ₂₆ , the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, mixture of coco caprate and caprylate; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C ₄ to C ₂₂ di or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ to C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C ₂ to C ₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of _C6 to _C30 fatty acids, preferably _C12 to _C22 . It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C ₆ to C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

As regards the alkylene carbonates, they may in particular be chosen from those of the following formula (1):
(1)
in which:
R' denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched _C1 - _C6 alkyl radical, a linear or branched _C1 - _C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;
R'' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical;
m is 1, 2 or 3.

Preferably, the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂ hydroxyalkyl radical.

R'' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂ hydroxyalkyl radical

Preferably m is 1.

As particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates, mention may be made of compounds for which the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), ethyl (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate), hydroxymethyl (R'= -CH ₂ OH; corresponding to glycerin carbonate).

Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.

As regards the alkyl carbonates, they may in particular be chosen from those of the following formula (2):
R'-O-CO-O-R'' (2)
in which:
R' denotes an atom, a linear or branched _C1 - _C5 alkyl radical, a linear or branched _C1 - _C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;
R'' represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical;
the sum of the numbers of carbon atoms of R' and R'' ranging from 2 to 6.

Preferably, the radical R' represents a linear _C1 - _C3 alkyl radical, a linear _C1 - _C2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

R'' represents a linear _C1 - _C3 alkyl radical, a linear _C1 - _C2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

More particularly, diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate may be mentioned.

Preferably, when present, the fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, different from hydrocarbon ether oils, are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from isopropyl myristate, oleic alcohol, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, soybean oil and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, different from the hydrocarbon ether oils, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Solid fats
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 30°C, and less than 45°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa). In the present application, this or these fatty substances are also called “solid fatty substance(s)”.

These solid fatty bodies are different from waxes, that is to say that these solid fatty bodies have a melting point higher than 25°C and lower than 45°C.

Advantageously, the solid fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The solid fatty bodies according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 .

Preferably, solid fatty substances are non-silicone.

The fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, _C6 - _C18 dialkyl carbonates, butters, ceramides, solid mono-, di- or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

By “fatty acids” is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty acids which can be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture:
myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);, myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures such as cetylstearyl alcohol, better still the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C ₉ -C ₂₆ carboxylic fatty acid and/or C ₉ -C ₂₆ fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ di- or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.

Examples include behenyl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, diethyl adipate, dioctyl, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, trihydroxystearin (triester of glycerin and hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use di-alkyl carbonates in which the two alkyl groups, identical or different, are each _C6 - _C18 groups, and preferably _C8 - _C12 groups, such as in particular dicaprylyl carbonate.

Butters can also be used.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also called “pasty fat”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point greater than 25°C and less than or equal to 40°C.

Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

We can cite more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), Apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), Grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), Avocado butter (Persea gratissima), Olive butter (Olea europaea), Sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and Cocoa butter Sunflower butter.

Shea butter is an example of a favorite butter.

Preferably, when present, the fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C, other than waxes, are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, butters, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, behenyl behenate, trihydroxystearin, shea butter and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C, other than waxes, ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, different from hydrocarbon ether oils, and/or one or more fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C, different from waxes.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, different from hydrocarbon ether oils, and one or more fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C, different from waxes.

Preferably, the total content of fatty substances (i.e. the total content of waxes, hydrocarbon ether oils, fatty substances having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C if applicable and fatty substances having a melting point of greater than 25°C and less than 45°C if applicable) ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which may be mentioned surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, nonionic surfactants, different from alkylpolyglycoside surfactants, or amphoteric surfactants, and their mixtures, cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickening agents, in particular polymeric thickening agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, and fillers.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

The above additives may generally be present in an amount for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above.
The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin materials, possibly having undergone washing with a shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin fibers.

Preferably, the keratin fibers are not rinsed after application of the composition.

They can then undergo thermal and/or mechanical treatment, drying and/or shaping, for example smoothing using a heating iron.

The invention further relates to the use of a composition as defined above for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
The composition can be used on damp or dry hair, and preferably in non-rinsed mode (i.e. the keratin fibers are not rinsed after application of the composition).

The invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for reducing frizz in keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Examples
In the following examples, all quantities are given, unless otherwise indicated, as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

a) composition
Composition A according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table:

Composition A Xanthan gum 0.8 Glycerol 3 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 1 Shea butter 0.6 Beeswax 2.5 Candelilla wax 2.5 Cetearyl alcohol 2.8 Glyceryl stearate 0.3 Cetearyl glucoside 0.2 Tocopherol 0.1 Scent 0.65 Dicaprylyl ether 13.1 Water Qsp 100

The composition is in the form of an oil in water emulsion.

b) protocol
The performance of composition A according to the invention was evaluated in relation to a commercial comparative composition recommended for reducing frizz (frizz-ease extra strong serum by John Frieda). Strands of natural Caucasian hair with a high level of frizz (TYPE IV) were previously washed with a DOP shampoo.
The compositions were then applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.03g of composition per g of hair.
The strands were then left to air dry.

Five experts evaluated the following cosmetic properties on dry hair:
- Anti-frizz effect: assessed visually - the more isolated hairs there are in the strand, the weaker the effect,
- Flexibility: assessed by manipulating the hand to lift the suspended wick, the easier the wick is to lift, the more flexible it is,
- Smooth touch: assessed by continuous pressure of the fingers (between thumb and middle finger) along the fiber - the more homogeneous the touch, the stronger the "smooth touch",
- Discipline after finger passage: assessment carried out after the smooth touch. The more regular and aesthetic the design of the loop, the stronger the discipline.

These parameters are rated between 0 and 5 compared to a reference wick wet with water and dried in the open air. The higher the rating, the greater the effect provided.

The results are shown in the table below (average of the scores of the 5 experts):

Composition Comparative HAS Anti-frizz 2.6 ± 0.42 4.1 ± 0.22 Flexibility 3 ± 0.00 4.1 ± 0.65 Smooth touch 2.8 ± 0.27 4.1 ± 0.22 Discipline 2 ± 0.00 4 ± 0.00

Composition A according to the invention makes it possible to obtain better cosmetic properties in terms of anti-frizz effect, suppleness, smooth feel and discipline compared to a comparative commercial composition.

Claims (15)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more waxes,
- one or more nonionic surfactants (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl)(poly)glycosides,
- one or more hydrocarbon ether oils, and
- water. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax(es) are chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Alfalfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; polyethylene waxes; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof; preferably among beeswax or modified beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least two different waxes, preferably it comprises at least one beeswax and Candelilla wax. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the wax(es) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactants (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl) (poly)glycosides are chosen from (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl) polyglycosides, more preferably from (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl) polyglucosides, more preferably still from cetearyl (poly)glucoside, arachidyl (poly)glucoside and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from (C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon ether oil(s) are chosen from oils of formula R ₁ OR ₂ in which R ₁ and R ₂ independently of one another denote a linear, branched or cyclic C ₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl group, the sum of the carbon atoms of R ₁ and R ₂ being greater than or equal to 8, preferably a C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl group. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ether hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof, preferably from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether and mixtures thereof, more preferably the ether hydrocarbon oil is dicaprylyl ether. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the hydrocarbon ether oil(s) ranges from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total water content is greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 70% by weight, more preferably ranges from 70 to 95% by weight, even more preferably ranges from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, different from ether hydrocarbon oils, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, and more preferably from isopropyl myristate, oleic alcohol, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, soybean oil and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C, other than waxes, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, butters, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, behenyl behenate, trihydroxystearin, shea butter and mixtures thereof. Process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair and/or for reducing frizz in keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair.