FR3142344A1 - Retinol-based composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Retinol-based composition The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular makeup and/or care of keratin materials, comprising at least one retinoid, in particular retinol; bisabolol; 4-t-butylcyclohexanol; niacinamide and D-panthenol. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Retinol-based composition

The present invention relates to the field of care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular anti-aging care of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” is understood to mean in particular the skin, lips and/or eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or lips, and preferably the skin of the body and/or face, and more preferably of the face.

Skin aging results from the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the skin. During the aging process, an alteration of the skin structure and functions appears. The main clinical signs due to these changes in skin metabolism are the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines originating from sagging and loss of elasticity of the tissues.

Furthermore, intrinsic aging, which induces skin changes, notably causes a slowdown in skin cell renewal, which mainly results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as the reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of fine wrinkles or fine lines, and by histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, a loss of vertical fibers of the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.

It is known to treat these signs of skin aging using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active ingredients capable of fighting aging, of which retinoids represent a known family of active ingredients.

Among the compounds of the retinoid family, retinol, which is one of the forms of vitamin A, is of particular interest. Indeed, retinol is a natural endogenous constituent of the human body. It is also well tolerated when applied to the skin up to much higher levels than retinoic acid.

Unfortunately, the application of retinoid formulations, particularly retinol, can be a source of discomfort for the user. It can cause sensory discomfort, hypersensitivity, sensations of skin irritation, tingling, etc.

These feelings of discomfort and sensory hypersensitivity are particularly exacerbated when these formulations are applied to sensitive and reactive skin.

Thus, the appearance of signs of discomfort, which appear within minutes of the subject coming into contact with the formulation, is one of the essential characteristics of sensitive skin. These are mainly dysesthetic sensations which are neurosensory signs. Dysesthetic sensations are understood to be more or less painful sensations felt in an area of the skin, such as tingling, pins and needles, itching or pruritus, warming, discomfort, tightness, etc. These subjective signs most often exist in the absence of visible clinical signs such as flaking.

Currently, to reduce discomfort problems, it is proposed to apply the retinoid-based product, with an adaptation period, for example following a rhythm of two applications per week for the first week, followed by one application every two days during the second week, and finally one daily application.

There are also retinol serums on the market that include alpha-bisabolol and trans-tert-butylcyclohexanol, compounds that are said to calm irritation and soothe the skin.

The present invention aims to provide a solution to the feelings of discomfort when applying formulations containing retinoids, in particular retinol, in particular in people with sensitive skin.

More specifically, the present invention provides new cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, in particular intended for skin care, comprising at least one retinoid, such as retinol, making it possible to provide a perception of comfort and pleasant sensory properties for the user.

Thus, the invention relates, according to a first of its aspects, to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least:
- a retinoid, especially retinol;
- bisabolol;
- 4-t-butylcyclohexanol;
- niacinamide; and
- D-panthenol.

As illustrated in the examples which follow, the inventors have found, surprisingly, that the combination of the four specific compounds, bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol, in a composition comprising a retinoid, in particular retinol, makes it possible to advantageously modulate the sensoriality upon application of the composition, in particular on the skin, and to improve the perception of comfort for the user.

In the remainder of the text, we will more simply refer to the combination according to the invention of at least the four aforementioned compounds in a composition comprising at least one retinoid, in particular retinol, namely: bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol as “combination (or association) of the compounds according to the invention”, or more simply as “combination (or association) according to the invention”.

The terms “combination” or “association” are understood to mean that the four aforementioned compounds are present in the composition according to the invention, these expressions not, however, implying any restriction as to the method of introducing the different compounds during the formulation of the composition, these compounds being able to be introduced, during the preparation of a composition according to the invention, in isolation from each other, or in the form of a mixture of two or more of these compounds.

In the case of a composition comprising at least two phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase, the compounds considered according to the invention may furthermore be present within the same phase or in separate phases.

As detailed in the rest of the text, the compounds used according to the invention, bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol, are ingredients known separately for application as an anti-inflammatory agent, to act on nociceptive pain or on the skin barrier function.

On the other hand, to the knowledge of the inventors, it has never been proposed to specifically combine these compounds in a composition comprising a retinoid, in particular retinol, for the purpose of improving the sensory properties when applying the composition.

Thus, as illustrated in the examples which follow, the implementation of the combination of specific compounds according to the invention makes it possible to access a composition having improved sensory properties, and thus to improve the perception of comfort upon application.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sensory properties” means the sensations experienced and observed by a user who applies a composition to the skin, and which correspond to physicochemical and/or rheological characteristics of said composition.

In particular, as evidenced by the evaluation in the following examples of the rheological parameters of the compositions, the implementation of the combination of specific compounds according to the invention interferes with the rheological behavior of the composition upon application.

The rheological behavior of the composition can be more particularly characterized by the evolution of the elastic modulus (or storage modulus), G’, and the loss modulus (or viscous modulus), G’’, as described in the examples given below.

The analysis of the evolution of the elastic and viscous moduli G' and G'' as a function of the applied stress τ shows that a composition according to the invention has a texture evolution, during a stress, different from that of a composition not comprising the combination of the specific compounds according to the invention. More precisely, it can be observed that a composition comprising the combination of the specific compounds according to the invention has a lower stress τ _c at the intersection point of the curves of evolution of the moduli G' and G'' and a shorter plateau of the linear viscoelastic domain (linear domain where the rheological parameters are independent of the applied stress), compared to compositions not incorporating any of the compounds of the combination according to the invention, or incorporating only part of these compounds.

This difference in rheological behavior of the compositions according to the invention during stress indicates a more rapid destructuring upon application of the composition.

These rheological properties translate into improved sensory properties upon application. Faster destructuring of the composition upon application allows for easy application, for example on sensitive skin, without requiring too much application intensity.

Furthermore, a composition incorporating the specific combination of compounds according to the invention advantageously has a more stringy setting, compared to a composition not incorporating any of the compounds of the combination according to the invention, or incorporating only part of these compounds, as well as a slower penetration at the level of the skin and an increased film-forming effect, which makes it possible to accentuate the perception of emollience and hydration upon application.

The compositions according to the invention thus exhibit improved sensory properties upon application.

By improving the sensory properties upon application of compositions comprising a retinoid, in particular retinol, the invention advantageously allows the use of these compositions for sensitive and reactive skin.

Sensitive skin is different from allergic skin. Its reactivity is not due to an immunological process, and generally only results in dysesthetic sensations.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression “sensitive skin” covers irritable skin and intolerant skin.

Intolerant skin is skin that reacts at least with sensations of warming, tightness, tingling and/or redness to different factors, such as the application of cosmetic or dermatological products or soap. In general, these signs are associated with erythema and hyper-seborrheic or acneic skin, or even rosacea, with or without scabs.

Irritable skin is skin that reacts with pruritus, that is to say itching or tingling, to different factors such as the environment, emotions, food, wind, friction, razors, hard water with a high concentration of limestone, temperature variations, humidity.

It is understood that these sensations can also be associated with the manifestation of cutaneous signs. Thus, generally speaking, this type of skin can be associated with dry skin with or without scabs or with skin that presents erythema. Dry skin is mainly manifested by a feeling of tightness and/or tension. It is also rough to the touch and appears covered in scales. When the skin is slightly dry, these scales are abundant, but barely visible to the naked eye. They are less and less numerous, but increasingly visible to the naked eye when this disorder worsens.

In the context of the present invention, the sensitive skins considered do not exhibit any inflammatory character.

Also, advantageously, by reducing the perception of discomfort generally felt when applying formulations based on retinoids, in particular retinol, the invention makes it possible to propose compositions incorporating an increased quantity of retinoid, in particular retinol, while providing the user with a satisfactory sensory perception.

The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of at least bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol in a composition, in particular cosmetic, containing at least one retinoid, in particular retinol, to improve the sensory properties when applying the composition to a keratin material, in particular to the skin and/or the lips, advantageously for application to sensitive skin.

Advantageously, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate and at least one salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

The compositions according to the invention advantageously have good stability over time, in the sense that the losses of retinoid compound, in particular retinol, which they comprise are low over time, as well as good organoleptic properties, in particular a pleasant odor and color.

Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention comprise a restricted content of controversial ingredients, and in particular comprise less than 0.2% by weight of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its derivatives, and preferably do not comprise controversial ingredients, and in particular do not comprise butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its derivatives.

A composition according to the invention is in particular used for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, and preferably for the care of keratin materials.

Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

Advantageously, the method according to the invention is implemented for application to sensitive skin.

Said cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or lips, is non-therapeutic.

Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will emerge more clearly upon reading the description and examples which follow.

Detailed description Retinol

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one retinoid.

A retinoid according to the invention may be retinol, retinal or an ester of retinol and a C2-C20 acid, such as retinyl propionate, acetate or palmitate.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the retinoid used in a composition according to the invention is retinol, otherwise known as Vitamin A. By “retinol” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant all the isomers of retinol, namely all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol and 9-cis retinol, but also 3,4-didehydroretinol.

In particular, retinol is selected from all isomers of retinol, namely all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol and 9-cis retinol.

Preferably, all-trans retinol is used.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises an effective amount of retinoid(s), preferably retinol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “effective amount” is understood to mean an amount of retinoid, in particular retinol, making it possible to obtain the desired effect through its use, in particular the reduction of the signs of aging of keratin materials.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.02% by weight of retinoid(s), in particular retinol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, a composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of retinoid(s), in particular retinol, of between 0.02% and 5.0% by weight, in particular of between 0.05% and 3.0% by weight, preferably of between 0.08% and 1.0% by weight, and more preferably of between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that the retinol content corresponds to the content of active matter, also called dry matter, of retinoid(s), in particular retinol, introduced into the composition.

According to a particular embodiment variant, the retinol can be introduced into the composition dissolved in an oil, such as a vegetable oil, for example soybean oil, in particular in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably approximately 10% by weight in the oil.

Particularly suitable are products marketed by BASF, in particular under the name Retinol 10SU, at 10% by weight of active ingredient in soybean oil.

According to another particular embodiment variant, the retinol can also be implemented in an encapsulated form.

As indicated above, a composition according to the invention based on at least one retinoid, in particular retinol, comprises a combination of specific compounds including at least bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol.

Bisabolol

As indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least bisabolol.

Bisabolol is commonly used in skin care as an anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient.

Bisabolol is a monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol with two isomers, α and β, which in turn have two pairs of levorotatory and dextrorotatory enantiomers. It is a colorless oily liquid found in wild chamomile essential oil and bergamot oil.

Bisabolol as used herein includes the α and β isomers or a mixture of these isomers.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention uses a plant bisabolol, in particular from chamomile.

Such a compound is, for example, marketed under the name Dragosantol ^® by the company Symrise.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of bisabolol, in particular from 0.1% to 1.0% and more particularly from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight of bisabolol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises bisabol in a bisabol/retinoid(s) mass ratio, in particular bisabol/retinol, of between 0.5 and 3, in particular between 0.9 and 2.1.

4-t-butylcyclohexanol

A composition according to the invention also comprises at least 4-t-butylcyclohexanol.

4-t-butylcyclohexanol for the purposes of the invention includes the cis and trans isomers, or a mixture of the cis and trans isomers.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least trans -4-tert-butylcyclohexanol. Trans -4-tert-butylcyclohexanol includes (+)- trans -4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, (-)- trans -4-tert-butylcyclohexanol and racemic mixtures.

4-t-butylcyclohexanol has already been proposed as a reducing or soothing agent for skin irritations. It acts more specifically as an antagonist of TRPV1 receptors, thus making it possible to intercept the signals caused by skin irritation before they reach the neuroreceptors, and thus to act on nociceptive pain, for example on sensations of tingling and burning of the skin.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 5% by weight of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, in particular from 0.5% to 2% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As an example, we can cite the compound 4-t-butylcyclohexanol marketed by the company Symrise under the name SymSitive® 1609.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises 4-t-butylcyclohexanol in a 4-t-butylcyclohexanol/retinoid(s) mass ratio, in particular 4-t-butylcyclohexanol/retinol of between 0.5 and 5, in particular between 1.9 and 4.1.

Niacinamide

A composition according to the invention also comprises at least niacinamide.

Niacinamide or nicotinamide is vitamin PP, which is a form of vitamin B3, and has the CAS number 98-92-0. This substance is also known as nicotinic acid amide and vitamin B3.

Niacinamide is known to improve skin elasticity, the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce redness and pigmentation spots, and reduce sebum secretion. Topical application of niacinamide also has a stabilizing effect on the skin barrier function and improves the moisture content of the stratum corneum. It also plays a role in repairing the DNA of keratinocytes damaged by UV exposure.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 5% by weight of niacinamide, in particular from 1% to 3% by weight and more particularly from 1.5% to 3% by weight of niacinamide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

An example is niacinamide marketed by the company DSM Nutritional Products under the name Niacinamide PC.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises niacinamide in a niacinamide/retinoid(s) mass ratio, in particular niacinamide/retinol, of between 0.5 and 20, in particular between 0.9 and 12.1.

D-Panthenol

D-panthenol or dexpanthenol, more commonly called panthenol, is a precursor of vitamin B (pro-vitamin B5).

A composition according to the invention may comprise D-panthenol alone or a racemic mixture of the D and L enantiomers of panthenol.

D-panthenol is known to act on the skin barrier. More specifically, D-panthenol is involved in the metabolic processes of skin regeneration. D-panthenol has thus been described for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, regenerating and healing properties.

An example is D-panthenol marketed by BASF under the name D-Panthenol 75W.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 5% by weight of D-panthenol, in particular from 0.4% to 1% by weight of D-panthenol and more particularly from 0.5% to 1% by weight of D-panthenol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises D-panthenol in a D-panthenol/retinoid(s) mass ratio, in particular D-panthenol/retinol, of between 0.1 and 4, in particular between 0.9 and 3.1.

According to a particular embodiment, the combination of bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol represents from 2% to 6% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 4.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprises at least:
- between 0.1% and 1% by weight of retinoid(s), in particular retinol;
- between 0.1% and 0.6% by weight of bisabolol;
- between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight of 4-t-butyl cyclohexanol;
- between 1.5% and 3% by weight of niacinamide; and
- between 0.5% and 1% by weight of D-panthenol;
relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other compounds

Pentaerythrityl di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the combination of the abovementioned compounds, at least di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate.

Pentaerythrityl di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate or pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate is a compound, which is part of the family of cinnamic acids and their derivatives, whose CAS number is 6683-19-8.

As an example, we can cite the compound di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate marketed by the company BASF under the name Tinogard TT ^® .

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight of pentaerythrityl di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the combination of the above-mentioned compounds, at least one salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is a compound with the formula:

Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate.

Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest ^® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30 ^® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that the salt content of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid corresponds to the content of active matter, also called dry matter, of the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid introduced into the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid can be introduced into the composition dissolved in water, in particular in a content ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 35% to 40% by weight in water.

One such compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest ^® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, at 37% by weight in water.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention combines at least one di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one salt of ethylenediamine succinic acid. As described in application WO 2021/123337, the combination of at least one di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one salt of ethylenediamine succinic acid, in particular as described above, advantageously makes it possible to effectively stabilize the retinol contained in the cosmetic composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one pentaerythrityl di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt, preferably in a di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound/ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt mass ratio ranging from 1.5 to 5, and preferably ranging from 2.5 to 4.5.

Thus, in a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprises at least:
- a retinoid, especially retinol;
- bisabolol;
- 4-t-cyclohexanol;
- niacinamide;
- D-panthenol;
- di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate; and
- a salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

In a more particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least:
- between 0.1% and 1% by weight of retinoid(s), in particular retinol;
- between 0.1% and 0.6% by weight of bisabolol;
- between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight of 4-t-butyl cyclohexanol;
- between 1.5% and 3% by weight of niacinamide;
- between 0.5% and 1% by weight of D-panthenol;
- between 0.01% and 2.5% by weight of pentaerythrityl di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate; and
- between 0.01% and 2.5% by weight of a salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid;
the mass percentages being given in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

In an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the combination of the aforementioned compounds, at least dipotassium glycyrrhizate (DPG).

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is the dipotassium salt of glycyrrhizic acid. It is a humectant and gelling agent, which is particularly recommended for its calming and soothing properties, especially for sensitive and reactive skin.

As an example, we can cite the compound dipotassium glycyrrhizate marketed by the company Maruzen Pharmaceuticals under the name Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, in particular from 0.15% to 0.25% by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As illustrated in the examples which follow, the use of dipotassium glycyrrhizate is not essential to obtaining the rheological and sensory properties provided by the combination of compounds according to the invention.

Thus, in another variant embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of dipotassium glycyrrhizate.

Aqueous phase

A composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one aqueous phase and/or at least one oily phase, constituting a cosmetically acceptable medium for incorporating the effective amount of retinol and the combination of specific compounds according to the invention, and forming a composition, in particular cosmetic, according to the invention.

In particular, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 85% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention is anhydrous, that is to say that it comprises less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

By " water-soluble solvent " according to the present invention is meant a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C ₃ and C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

According to an alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one _C2 - _C32 polyol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ polyol ” means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two –OH functions, in particular at least three –OH functions, and more particularly at least four –OH functions.

The polyols suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are in particular those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

The polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one compound chosen from 1,3-propanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises at least glycerol.

Oily phase

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, the latter preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

" Oil " means a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

An oily phase suitable for the preparation of compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

Oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to an embodiment variant, oils of silicone origin are preferred.

By " non-volatile " is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 ^{- 3} mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ silicone oil ” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term " fluorinated oil " means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

" Hydrocarbon oil " means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

Oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

For the purposes of the invention, the term " volatile oil " means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa ( ^{10 -3} to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

Volatile oils

Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone.

Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in C ₈ -C ₁₆ , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisilazane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

As cyclic silicone volatile oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile oils

Non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and/or non-volatile silicone oils.

Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether,
- synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , in which R ₁ represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from esters of alcohol and fatty acid, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate,
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
- fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,
- higher fatty acids _C12 - _C22 , such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
- carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate,
- non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methycone, and
- phenylated silicone oils, such as for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;
as well as mixtures of these different oils.

In particular, the composition may further comprise at least one non-volatile oil, in particular chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile ester oils and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ apolar oil ” means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, d _a , is equal to 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in C. M. Hansen's article: " The three dimensional solubility parameters ," J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:
- d _D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;
- d _p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
- d _h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and
- d _a is determined by the equation: d _a = (dp² + dh²) ^½ .
The parameters d _p , d _h , d _D and d _a are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

In particular, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atoms.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, it may be chosen from:
- paraffin oil or its derivatives,
- vaseline oil,
- naphthalene oil,
- polybutylenes, in particular Indopol H-100 (molar mass or M _W = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (M _W = 1340 g/mol), Indopol H-1500 (M _W = 2160 g/mol) marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco,
- polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, in particular Parléam ^® marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco (M _W = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company Synteal (M _W = 6000 g/mol), Rewopal PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company Witco (M _W = 1000 g/mol),
- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,
- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, in particular Puresyn 10 (M _W = 723 g/mol), Puresyn 150 (M _W = 9200 g/mol) marketed or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,
- and their mixtures.

Said non-volatile oil may also be an ester oil, in particular having between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.

Examples include mono-, di- or tri-esters.

Ester oils can notably be hydroxylated.

The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from:
- monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 18, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, sebacate diisopropyl, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably, these are esters of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R ₁ and R ₂ being such that R ₁ + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 18. Preferably, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate;
- diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is possible in particular to use diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo;
- triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of tricarboxylic acids, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;
- tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri-2-decyl tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra-2-decyl tetradecanoate;
- polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR0853634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may be made in particular of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA;
- esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular obtainable from a dimer dicarboxylic acid derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular C ₈ to C ₃₄ , in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , in particular C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ , and more particularly C ₁₈ , such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and DD-DA7 ^® ;
- vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, such as that sold under the name Antaron V–216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (M _W = 7300 g/mol);
- vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, C ₁₈ - ₃₆ acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois; and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;
- and their mixtures.

Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil” or “BY29” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example consistency or texture.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and preferably at least one apolar hydrocarbon oil.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and one non-volatile ester oil.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile fatty acid triglyceride, a non-volatile carbonate oil and a non-volatile ester oil.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate.

Preferably, the oily phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Solar filter

A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more UV filters.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one UV filter.

In particular, the UV filter(s) suitable for the invention is (are) chosen from water-soluble UV filters, fat-soluble UV filters, insoluble UV filters, and mixtures thereof. Among these UV filters, a distinction may be made between water-soluble organic filters, fat-soluble organic filters, insoluble organic filters, and inorganic filters.

The term " water-soluble UV filter " means any compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in the molecular state in an aqueous phase or capable of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.

By " liposoluble UV filter " is meant any compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in the molecular state in a fatty phase or capable of being solubilized, in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a fatty phase.

By " insoluble UV filter " is meant any compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812 ^® marketed by the company Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, achieved at 70 °C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solid after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

The term " water-soluble organic UVA filter " means any organic compound filtering UVA radiation in the wavelength range 320 to 400 nm capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in the molecular state in an aqueous phase or capable of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.

Examples of water-soluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the present invention include benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups with sulfonic groups, in particular 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) or one of its salts, for example marketed under the name Neoheliopan AP ^® by the company Symrise, benzophenone compounds comprising at least one sulfonic acid function such as benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5 or benzophenone-9.

The term " water-soluble organic UVB filter " means any organic compound filtering UVB radiation in the wavelength range from 280 to 320 nm which can be completely dissolved or miscible in the molecular state in an aqueous phase or which can be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.

As examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds, water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds, water-soluble p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA), water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

The term " liposoluble organic UVB filter " means any organic compound filtering UVB radiation in the wavelength range from 280 to 320 nm capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in the molecular state in a fatty phase or capable of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a fatty phase. Among the liposoluble organic UV filters, some of them are liquid at room temperature.

Examples of liposoluble organic UV filters that can be used according to the present invention include cinnamic derivatives, anthranilates, salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those cited in patent US5624663, imidazolines, p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844, filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO 93/04665, dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649, 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981, merocyanine derivatives merocyanines as described in patent US4195999, application WO2004/006878, applications WO2008/090066, WO2011113718, WO2009027258, and documents IP COM JOURNAL N°000179675D published on February 23, 2009, IP COM JOURNAL N°000182396D published on April 29, 2009, IP COM JOURNAL N° 000189542D published on November 12, 2009, IP COM Journal No. IPCOM000011179D published on 04/03/2004 and their mixtures.

Preferably, the fat-soluble organic UV filters may be chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, such as Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane or avobenzone, offered for sale in particular under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products, salicylic derivatives, such as Homosalate sold in particular under the name Eusolex ^® HMS by Rona/EM Industries or Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold in particular under the name Neo Helipan ^® OS by Symrise, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, such as Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL ^® N539 by BASF, or Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL ^® N35 by BASF, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of insoluble organic UV filters that can be used according to the invention include organic UV filters of the oxalanilide type, of the triazine type, of the benzotriazole type, of the vinyl amide type, of the cinnamide type, of the type comprising one or more benzazole and/or benzofuran, benzothiophene or indole groups, of the aryl vinylene ketone type, of the phenylene bis-benzoxazinone derivative type, of the acrylonitrile amide, sulfonamide or carbamate derivative type or mixtures thereof.

As examples of inorganic UV filters that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of metal oxide pigments, such as metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.50 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.50 µm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly preferably between 0.015 and 0.05 µm.

By " elementary size " we mean the size of non-aggregated particles.

The sunscreen(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.0% to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 3.0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Adjuvants Surfactant

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant.

The surfactants may be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the document " Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology , KIRK-OTHMER ", volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactant

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, sucrose alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, geminal surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

As oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, those which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₄ , and preferably C ₁₂ -C _18, are preferably used; these may be ethoxylated or not, for example, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Steareth-20”) such as Brij ^® 78 marketed by the company UNIQEMA, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”) and the mixture of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “C _12-15 Pareth-7”) such as that marketed under the name Neodol 25-7 ^® by Shell Chamicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) alcohols having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ , ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Steareth-2”) such as Brij ^® 72 marketed by the company Uniqema.

As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 are preferably used. Examples include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product Tween ^® 20 marketed by the company Uniqema, or polysorbate 60, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO or even Cremophor ^® (RH 40, RH 60, etc.) from BASF. Another example is the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, marketed under the name Arlacel ^® 2121U-FL from Croda.

As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units, are preferably used. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C ₉ /C ₁₁ -polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10 ^® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP ^® by the company Henkel and the product marketed under the name Oramix NS 10 ^® by the company Seppic; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711 ^® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 110 ^® by the company Seppic; lauryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP ^® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N ^® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP ^® by the company Henkel; caprylyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP ^® by the company Cognis; the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidic alcohol, the INCI name of which is Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, marketed under the name Montanov ^® 202 by the company Seppic; and mixtures thereof.

Anionic surfactant

The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C fatty acids₁₀-C₃₀, especially in C₁₆-C₂₅, especially metal stearates and behenates and their mixtures.

Cationic surfactant

The cationic surfactants may be chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts, such as (C _12-30 alkyl)-tri(C _1-4 alkyl)ammonium halides such as N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride).

Amphoteric surfactant

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as that sold under the name Pecosil PS 100 ^® by the company Phoenix Chemical.

Silicone surfactant

The composition may also comprise at least one silicone surfactant. For example, nonionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, may include dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate, and nonionic surfactants with an HLB less than 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, may include the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol.

The surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention, in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Gelling agents and thickeners

Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more thickeners and/or gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic ones, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water, can be incorporated into the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, in particular chosen from crosslinked acrylic homo- or copolymers, associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type, polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, crosslinked and/or neutralized, carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, and their mixtures, in particular as defined below.

Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol ^® (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen ^® (CTFA name: Acrylates/C _10-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Goodrich, polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the name Hostacerin ^® AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as those marketed under the name Sepigel ^® 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C _13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel ^® 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic, polysaccharide biopolymers such as modified celluloses, carrageenans, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, cassia, karaya, konjac, tragacanth, tara, acacia or arabic gum, and mixtures thereof.

The polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression “ of natural origin ” is intended to designate polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these gelling agents fall into the category of polysaccharides, which can be divided into several categories.

Thus, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

Similarly, they can be linear polysaccharides like pullulan or branched like gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed like starch.

More particularly, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not. Representative of the starchy polysaccharides, native starches, modified starches and particulate starches can be particularly mentioned.

In general, the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and their derivatives, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

The thickener(s) and/or gelling agent(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Charges

A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one filler.

The filler may be chosen from pigments, titanium oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, boron nitride, nacres, synthetic or natural mica, nacres comprising mica and titanium oxide, silica powder, talc, polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name Orgasol ^® by the company Atochem, polyethylene powders, microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Polytrap ^® , expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres marketed under the name Expancel ^® by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl ^® F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto, silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name Tospearl ^® by Toshiba Silicone Company, and their blends.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride.

These fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, and preferably from 1.0% to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Assets

A composition according to the invention may comprise additional active ingredients, in particular anti-aging active ingredients other than the retinol used according to the invention.

Examples of anti-aging active ingredients include sodium hyaluronate, n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid.

Such active ingredients may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment, that is to say that it comprises less than 0.2% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, or even is free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment, in particular butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its salts.

Thus, a composition according to the invention is in particular free of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its salts, and preferably is free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid or one of its salts.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, coloring materials, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), cosmetic active ingredients such as, for example, moisturizing agents, healing agents, anti-oily skin agents, and/or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and/or care of keratin materials, is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel as described in application WO2021/123352, comprising, in addition to at least one retinoid, in particular retinol; and the combination of the compounds considered according to the invention: bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol:
- at least one polyol, in particular in a content of at least 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;
- at least one derivative of polyethylene glycol and mono-, di- and triglycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain ranging from C ₆ to C ₁₆ , and having at least two ethylene oxide groups; for example chosen from derivatives of polyethylene glycol and mono-, di- and triglycerides of caprylic acid and capric acid, such as that comprising 6 ethylene oxide groups (INCI name: PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides), marketed under the name Softigen 767 by the company Sasol;
- at least one non-volatile ether oil having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; and
- at least one non-volatile monoester oil.

In a particular embodiment, such a composition further comprises pentaerythrityl di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate and at least one salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, as described in application WO2021/121677.

Composition

As stated above, a composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and/or dermatological, and is preferably cosmetic.

A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. which has a pleasant color, odor and feel.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used in the cosmetic field according to the applications envisaged, in particular for a topical application.

For topical application to keratin materials, and in particular the skin or its appendages, a composition may have the form in particular of an aqueous or oily solution or a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or vice versa (water-in-oil), or of suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the aqueous or anhydrous cream or gel type, or of microcapsules or microparticles, or of vesicular dispersions of the ionic and/or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W/O) reverse emulsion, an emulsified gel or an oily solution. For example, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsified cream gel.

In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition varies from 4 to 7, and more preferably from 5 to 7.

A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

Destination of the composition

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for care and/or makeup, in particular for care, of keratin materials, in particular of the body or the face, preferably of the face.

These compositions may constitute cleansing, protective, treatment or care creams for the face, hands or body, for example day creams, night creams, make-up creams, foundation creams, sun creams, fluid foundations, protective or care body milks, sun milks, lotions or treatment ampoules.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can be used as a care and/or sun protection product for the face and/or body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as oils, milks, lotions, more or less creamy creams or gel-creams.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a cosmetic composition for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, preferably the face.

In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular for the body or face, preferably the face.

Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup. A composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a foundation.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a lip product, in particular a lipstick.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an eyebrow product, in particular an eyebrow pencil.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, preferably for the care, in particular of the skin of the body and/or the face.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.

Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.

In particular, a composition according to the invention can be implemented with the aim of combating the signs of skin aging.

Thus, the present application also concerns the use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin aging.

The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

The expressions “between … and …”, “includes from … to …”, “formed from … to …”, and “ranging from … to …” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.

Example 1

Compositions I1 and I2 according to the invention are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 1 below. The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Protocol for the preparation of compositions

Preparation of composition I1 in laboratory ( 350 g )

Composition I1 is prepared as follows.

The ingredients of phase A are heated in a tank to a temperature of approximately 75°C.

The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once everything is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring and placed under vacuum.

Phase C is added and mixed.

Phase D is added and then the whole is cooled.

The ingredients of phase E are mixed together under magnetic stirring, then added.

Phase F is then added with stirring.

Finally, the retinol of phase G is added to the stirred mixture with stirring using a Raynerie and in a glove box (inerting with nitrogen).

Preparation of composition I 2 in the laboratory (1.3 kg)

Composition I2 is prepared as follows.

The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C with stirring.

The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once the whole is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring and placed under vacuum. The whole is stirred for about 10 minutes.

Phase C is added and mixed.

Phase D is added and then the whole is cooled.

The ingredients of phase E are mixed together under magnetic stirring, then added.

Phase F is then added with stirring.

Finally, the retinol from phase G is added to the stirred mixture with stirring using a Raynerie and in a glove box (inerting with nitrogen).

Example 2

Composition I3 according to the invention is prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 2 below. The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Protocol for preparing the composition

Preparation of composition I 3 in "Half-Large" (1.3 kg)

The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C with stirring.

The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once everything is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring.

Phase C is added and mixed.

The ingredients of phase D are mixed together under magnetic stirring, then added.

Phase E is then added with stirring.

Finally, the retinol of phase F is added to the stirred mixture while the tank is inerted.

Example 3

Composition C1 outside the invention is prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 3 below. The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation protocol for and the composition

Preparation of composition C1 in the laboratory (1.5 kg)

The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a Minilab tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C with stirring.

The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once the whole is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring and placed under vacuum. The whole is stirred for about 10 minutes.

Phase C is added and mixed.

Phase C1 is added and then the whole is cooled.

Phase D is added with stirring using a Raynerie.

Finally, the retinol of phase E is added to the mixture stirred under Raynerie and under inerting with nitrogen.

Example 4

Compositions C2 and C3 outside the invention are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 4 below. The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Protocol for the preparation of compositions

Preparation of the composition C2 in "Half-Large" (40 kg)

The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C with stirring.

The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once everything is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring.

Phase C is added and mixed.

Phase D is added and then the whole is cooled.

The ingredients of phase E are added.

Finally, the retinol from phase F is added to the mixture while the tank is inerted.

Preparation of the composition C2 in "Half-Large" (45 kg)

The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C with stirring.

The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once everything is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring.

Phases C and C1 are added.

Phase D is added and then the whole is cooled.

The ingredients of phase E are added.

Finally, the retinol from phase F is added to the mixture while the tank is inerted.

Example 5

The compositions according to the invention and outside the invention are evaluated according to the following three analyses, the evaluation protocols of which are detailed below.
- Sensory analysis on application;
- Sensory analysis of the skin finish; and
- Rheological analysis.

5.1. Sensory analysis on application

The sensory aspect, such as stickiness, when applying the compositions to the skin was evaluated by a panel of around twenty experts trained on different terminal products according to a procedure with standardized application gestures. The evaluation criteria are standardized and rated on a scale of 1 to 15 (from not at all to very). 0.05 ml of formula is applied to a cheek in 10 turns. Hands are washed with soap and water and then dried before evaluating various parameters, including stickiness and slipperiness evaluated 2 minutes after application.

In sensory analysis, formulas I1, I2 and I3, comprising the combination of the four compounds according to the invention, niacinamide, panthenol, bisabolol and 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, exhibit a more stringy setting, slower penetration and leave a slightly stickier skin than formulas C1, C2 and C3 not in accordance with the invention.

5.2. Sensory analysis of the “skin finish”

This sensory test was carried out on a panel of ten people, who were asked to rate the sensation of the presence of a film at the end of application of the compositions according to the notation:
(3) very present, greasy film,
(2) film present;
(1) film not very present;
(0) film missing – bare skin.

The average intensity corresponds to the average of the scores given by the ten people.

The results for composition I3 according to the invention and compositions C2 and C3 outside the invention are presented in Table 5 below.

A major difference is observed in the sensory evaluation. Thus, 7 out of 10 people find that their skin retains, at the end of application, a film-forming appearance with formula I3 comprising the specific combination according to the invention, in comparison with formula C2 not containing any of the four compounds of the combination according to the invention, which emerges on 9 out of 10 people as “bare” skin at the end of application.

The feedback from the two sensory analyses shows that the compositions according to the invention penetrate more slowly, which explains the deposit being more present on the skin at the end of application and slightly more sticky.

Niacinamide and D-panthenol contribute to this deposit, but alone do not provide sufficient presence at the end of application. On the other hand, associated with bisabolol and 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, they lead to obtaining a film-forming deposit on the skin.

5.3. Rheological analysis Viscosity

Viscosity measurement

The viscosity of the formulas can be measured using a rheometer of the Rhéomat RM 200 type from Lamy Rheology with spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The values are recorded at T = 30 seconds, at T = 10 minutes and at T = 24 hours.

Results

Differences are observed in the viscosities measured in the Rheomat, linked to the method of manufacturing the compositions. Thus, the viscosity values of the compositions prepared in DG ("Demi-Grand") (I3, C2 and C3) are, in general, higher than the viscosities of the compositions prepared in the laboratory (I2 and C1).

If we compare the viscosity values obtained for composition I2 comprising the combination of the compounds according to the invention and for composition C1, both prepared according to the same procedure, it can be observed that the viscosities are similar. Similarly, if we compare the viscosity values obtained for composition I3 and compositions C2 and C3, prepared in DG and considering the measurement standard deviation (± 5 UD), the viscosity values again remain very close.

Rheology

Rheology measurements make it possible to show more precise texture differences between different compositions, regardless of their manufacturing method.

Measurement of rheological parameters

The rheological behavior of the composition can be more particularly characterized by the evolution of the elastic modulus (or storage modulus), G’, and its loss modulus (or viscous modulus), G’’.

The measurements are carried out on an imposed stress rheometer, RS 600 from the company ThermoRhéo, equipped with a thermostatic bath and a stainless steel mobile with cone/plane geometry, 35 mm in diameter and 2° angle. The measurements are carried out at a temperature of 32°C.

The composition is then subjected to harmonic shear according to a stress τ(t) varying sinusoidally according to a pulsation ω (ω=2пυ), υ being the frequency of the applied shear. The composition thus sheared undergoes a stress τ(t) and responds according to a deformation γ (t).

The stress τ(t) and the strain γ(t) are defined respectively by the following relations:

τ(t) = τ ₀ cos(ω.t) γ(t)= γ ₀ cos(ω.t – δ)

τ ₀ being the maximum stress amplitude and γ ₀ being the maximum strain amplitude. The elasticity δ is the phase shift angle between stress and strain.

The measurements are carried out at a frequency of 1 Hz (υ = 1 Hz).

Increasing stresses are applied to the sample starting from an initial stress of 0.01 Pa and ending with a final stress of 1000 Pa, with the stresses being applied only once.

We measure the evolution of the elastic and viscous moduli G’ and G’’ and of the elasticity δ as a function of the applied stress τ.

The stress τ _c at the point of intersection of the curves of evolution of the elastic and viscous moduli corresponds to the stress at the phase transition between a so-called solid state to a more liquid state.

Similarly, the length of the plateau of the linear viscoelastic domain G’ (linear domain where the rheological parameters are independent of the applied stress) reflects the more or less long duration at the end of which the material will modify its structure in response to the applied stress.

Results

The values of τ _c (stress at the crossing point in pascal) and the end value of the plateau of the linear viscoelastic domain (in Pa), i.e. the length of the plateau of the viscoelastic domain G', obtained for compositions I2 and I3 in accordance with the invention and compositions C1, C2 and C3 outside the invention, are collated in the following table.

The compositions in accordance with the invention comprising the combination of compounds according to the invention have a lower constraint at the crossing point τc, compared to the comparative compositions, not containing all of the compounds according to the invention.

Similarly, the plateau of the viscoelastic domain G’ is shorter for the compositions having the combination of compounds according to the invention, compared to the compositions not comprising all of the compounds of the combination according to the invention.

These results demonstrate that the compositions according to the invention change structure with lower levels of constraint than the compositions not containing the combination according to the invention.

This implies that the consumer will have a feeling of faster transformation of the product.

It should be noted that the difference between the compositions in accordance with the invention and the compositions outside the invention, not containing all of the compounds according to the invention, is observed, independently of the level of retinol used.

Thus, the compositions comprising the combination according to the invention combine advantageous rheological properties with the application, which results in improved sensory properties and a perception of comfort. In particular, the faster breakage (sensation of destruction of the composition upon application) makes it possible to work the composition upon application with less rapid penetration, making it possible to accentuate the perception of emollience and hydration.

Claims (12)

Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for make-up and/or care of keratin materials, comprising at least:
- a retinoid, especially retinol;
- bisabolol;
- 4-t-butylcyclohexanol;
- niacinamide; and
- D-panthenol. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 0.02% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.08% to 1.0% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of retinoid(s), in particular retinol, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of bisabolol, in particular from 0.1% to 1.0% and more particularly from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight of bisabolol, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01% to 5% by weight of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, in particular from 0.5 to 2% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01% to 5% by weight of niacinamide, in particular from 1% to 3% by weight and more particularly from 1.5% to 3% by weight of niacinamide, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01 to 5% by weight of D-panthenol, in particular from 0.4% to 1% by weight of D-panthenol and more particularly from 0.5% to 1% by weight of D-panthenol, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, preferably in a di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate / ethylenediamine disuccinic acid salt mass ratio of between 1.5 and 5, in particular between 2.5 and 4.5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least glycerol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for care and/or makeup, preferably for care, of keratin materials. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein said composition is applied to sensitive skin.