FR3131529A1 - Customization kit for a cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Customization kit for a cosmetic composition The present invention relates to a block formulation kit; and its use for the preparation of cosmetic compositions with varied and personalized textures. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Cosmetic composition personalization kit Technical field of the invention

The present invention relates to a kit for personalizing cosmetic compositions; in particular a block formulation kit; and its use for the preparation of cosmetic compositions with varied and personalized textures.

Background of the invention

New digital technologies mark the advent of hyper-personalized cosmetics. Thus, new launches of “personalization” type cosmetic products are based, for example, on a new mixing device, on a new digital application, on a new skin diagnostic process or on a process for determining the color of a product. cosmetic that matches a user's skin color.

Several models coexist. There is in particular “homemade” cosmetics, where consumers make their own beauty products, for example using boxes of ingredients. Personalized products can be made at home , by mixing the ingredients by hand or with tools such as spoon, spatula, whisk, or using a mixer. The most classic personalization in cosmetics is "mixology" which consists of mixing different ingredients with a process very often with heating and low energy mixing equipment such as manual whisk. The diversity of raw materials, the complexity of their handling and the following of a particular recipe makes the approach tedious and does not make it possible to obtain a homogeneous and efficient mixture close to industrial quality.

Furthermore, the approach to personalization at the industrial level is also very complex with traditional operational systems.

Point-of-sale personalization is also booming, particularly for skin care or makeup. Foundations and lipsticks can now be made on site, at the counter, in front of the customer, using micro-factories, offering thousands of possible combinations. This is what SkinCeuticals offers, for example, with a personalized skin care service called “Custom D.O.S.E. », or even the “Teint Particulier” from Lancôme. In the case of “Particular Complexion”, a Lancôme beauty advisor accompanies each client and begins the consultation with a scan of the skin in three different places in order to precisely analyze its type and shade. An algorithm interprets the data retrieved in order to define the ideal foundation formulation. Thanks to its chromatic sensitivity greater than that of the human eye, the algorithm allows you to choose the shade perfectly suited to each skin tone. The tailor-made formula is then prepared in store in around twenty minutes. If the shade can be adjusted, so can the level of hydration and coverage, with 72,000 possible combinations.

To date, there is no product offering or cosmetic process allowing the texture to be personalized, while guaranteeing, for example, the same stability or constant effectiveness of active ingredients whatever the texture. one of the main challenges of personalization is to have a simple, agile and rapid formulation system allowing the tailor-made personalization of skin care in all its dimensions, including texture.

The problem also arises of knowing how to emulsify oils, disperse fillers and add thermolabile active ingredients (even sensitive to strong

shears) quickly and at room temperature without heating, for greater safety and for assured quality (reproducibility), on small quantities for

tailor-made with a low energy mixing tool.

There therefore remains a real need to provide new processes or new kits, using new formulation base compositions, hereinafter "blocks", making it possible to easily create and prepare, by mixing between said cosmetic blocks, a whole range of cosmetic textures, and thus allow complete customization.

On the other hand, consumers have a heightened environmental awareness, expectations of more naturalness, the need to be reassured about the ingredients of cosmetic formulas, in particular about their safety, their low environmental footprint, their origin, or even their renewable nature.

The present invention aims to offer formulas responding to this quest for environmental responsibility, thoughtful, more sober consumption, cosmetic products that are both simpler but also more precise, freshly prepared, on demand and “tailor-made”. These formulas must perfectly match their skin, their desires and their environment.

The present invention therefore aims to develop a kit and a block formulation process, which is both minimalist, but sufficiently robust in terms of stability criteria, to be able to adapt to different formulation environments, when mixing said blocks. ; and thus allow stable personalized compositions to be obtained whatever the final texture requested.

In any case, it should be noted that the mixing efficiency is lower than that of industrialized cosmetics. Consequently, to ensure the stability and quality of these mixtures, it is necessary to design new pre-formulated cosmetic preparations (also called “cosmetic blocks”) that are easy to assemble and mix using new agile manufacturing methods, particularly formulation. “in blocks”. Thus, this trend towards extreme personalization gives rise to a need for new types of formulations, and in particular processes capable of quickly formulating on demand.

The present invention therefore aims to design a kit or process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition from robust formulatory “blocks” which can be combined “custom” with different functional blocks by means of low-speed agitation. energy (in particular using a Speedmixer®) and at room temperature (typically 25°C).

An objective is also to facilitate access to the personalization of skin care, in a few minutes, in all its dimensions (texture, skin finish, visual effect, hydration, active ingredients, photoprotection, etc.). The question also arises of how to adjust the texture without diluting the performance expected by the consumer (hydration, absorption of active ingredients, optical effects, coverage, color, etc.). According to a classic approach, the formulator creates a formula by combining raw materials used in situ according to a defined manufacturing process. If he wants to adjust the texture or shade, he must remake the formula from scratch. This approach is therefore not accessible to a consumer directly.

Typically texture adjustment is done by adjusting the water and compensating throughout the formula which can dilute the final performance of the formula. It is rarer to compensate for the surfactant system at the risk of compromising the stability of the formula. This texture adjustment is all the more crucial for certain professions and in particular foundation makeup because formulators are subject to the effects of pigments on the final texture (e.g. yellow pigment strongly thickens textures). Being able to adjust the texture without affecting the final shade or coverage would be a real step forward in formulation.

The present invention thus aims to design a kit and method for preparing personalized cosmetic products, allowing for agility, time saving, energy saving, quality and speed of preparation, of each personalized final product.

The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved by the kit according to the present invention.

According to a first aspect, the present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

- On the one hand a Textural block (a) comprising:

- a formulatory base composition (hereinafter also called engine block or “BM” of the formula) and

- an aqueous phase (Water Block); And

- On the other hand, a Functional block (b) comprising one or more compositions,

in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously to form a final cosmetic formula, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a makeup, makeup removal, cleaning or care, skin, mucous membranes, appendages or hair;

in which said formulatory base comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

A) at least one diol, preferably at least two diols, containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

B) at least two fatty alcohols containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms; And

D) water.

Preferably said formulatory base comprises A) at least two diols comprising at least:

- a first majority diol chosen from those in list A1 consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

- a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list A1 and/or those of list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, said mixing of the blocks of the Kit is carried out by means of an asymmetrical mixing device, in particular with planetary movement, such as a Speedmixer®.

Advantageously, said mixture is produced at a temperature below 50°C, preferably below 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range from 15 to 30°C, preferably from 18 to 25°C.

Advantageously, said mixture is produced directly in the final container of said cosmetic composition.

According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic product with a personalized texture, from a kit as defined above, in which said textural block (a) is mixed with one or several functional blocks (s) (b), said mixture being preferably carried out at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at an ambient temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 25°C, preferably close to 25°C, preferably with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably of 500 to 3000 rpm, preferably of 1000 to 3000 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final container of said cosmetic product.

According to a third aspect, the subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic process for caring for, making up or removing make-up from the skin, including the scalp, hair and/or lips, comprising the application to the skin, the hair and/or lips, of a composition obtained according to the process as defined above.

The kit of the invention comprises in particular the use of a specific and robust formulatory base, for the manufacture of at least one cosmetic product of personalized texture, in which said base is mixed, preferably in blocks, with one or several other compositions (blocks), in particular pre-formulated(s), said mixture being preferably produced at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at room temperature in the range of 15 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 25°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably of 500 to 3000 rpm, preferably 1000 to 3000 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final container of said cosmetic product.

The present invention thus proposes the use of a simple minimalist universal base ("motor block" with industrial quality) which already has the appearance of a cream with an interesting basic sensory effect (fresh/moisturizing without soaping, nor tackiness) and which has the capacity to stabilize at room temperature one or more raw materials ("functional blocks") from several families such as fatty substances, water, active ingredients, gelling agents, fillers, pigments. The mixing of the base block with the functional block(s) can be done at room temperature directly in the packaging or final container with a low energy mixing tool and preferably of the asymmetric or planetary type ( type Speedmixer®) but it is not excluded to heat the whole thing. The incrementation by the kits according to the invention makes it possible to explore a wide range of textures (from lotion to serum, through creams to balm) and sensory effects for care or hybrid makeup and treatment (BBcream) for various areas ranging from the face, hair, to the body.

The present kit and method of preparation by blocks, from a robust formulatory base block, allows rapid tailor-made formulation by simple combination of said base block / textural block, with different functional blocks, and makes it possible to explore a whole range of textures, sensory effects and benefits with performance at least equal to classic formulas manufactured according to a classic industrial process by mixing raw material by raw material.

Detailed description of the invention

For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

By “keratin materials” we mean the skin, mucous membranes and/or integuments. Preferably, the keratin materials are the skin, in particular the skin of the face, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and/or the integuments such as the eyelashes.

The compositions according to the invention can be cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Preferably, these are cosmetic compositions.

The composition according to the invention contains a cosmetically acceptable medium.

The term “cosmetically acceptable medium” in the present invention means a non-toxic medium, compatible with keratin materials, in particular with the skin (including the inside of the eyelids), mucous membranes, hair or lips of human beings. . A cosmetic composition is a product having a pleasant appearance, smell and feel, and intended for topical application.

By “soluble or solubilized compound” is meant a compound which can be dissolved in a liquid, or which is miscible, and forms only a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the liquid.

The expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” must be understood inclusive, unless otherwise specified.

The expressions “at least one” and “one or more” are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, the contents and percentages are weight percentages. The percentages are therefore generally expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated. Ratios are also weight ratios. Temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise noted, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise noted.

By Speedmixer® (in particular DAC400), we mean more particularly a mixer operating on the principle of an asymmetric centrifuge, by planetary movement with an acceleration of 400G and a speed ranging from 800 to 2750 rpm.

By high-performance composition, we mean a basic composition that is robust to the various possible constraints (pH, salts, dilution, heating, cold emulsification with low energy, etc.) that may be imposed by the addition of other (blocks of) raw materials in view. a diversification of textures.

By “robust” composition we mean in particular a composition which meets at least the criteria below (as defined and measured according to the protocols specified below in Table 1 of the examples):

•be stable at a wide range of pH, to allow the anti-microbial protection of the formula and the pH-dependent activity of certain active ingredients;

•be stable at high temperatures at 45°C, and at 75°C to allow the introduction of blocks of hot ingredients, in particular based on melted wax, and thus guarantee the possibility of obtaining a consistent texture balm or butter;

•be insensitive to electrolytes, in particular resistant to the presence of NaCl type salts, to allow the introduction of mineral water, such as Vichy water or La Roche Posay water without risk of instability linked to the presence of mineral salts , or guarantee stability following the addition of certain active ingredients loaded with ions;

•be stable upon dilution with or without the presence of fatty substances, and in particular:

•be able to emulsify fatty substances, such as vegetable oils, at room temperature (25°C) with a low-energy tool such as Speedmixer®;

•be stable when diluted in water and thus guarantee the possibility of obtaining a texture of mist/serum/lotion consistency.

- For the purposes of the invention, “stable composition” means a composition which, after 2 months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, shows no macroscopic change in color, odor or of viscosity, but which on the contrary remains homogeneous and regular, and which does not shift in phase (no separation of the aqueous phase from the oily phase) nor does it release oil.

- by “very stable” composition we mean a composition which, after centrifugation (3700 rpm 1 hour), shows no change in texture (no drop in viscosity or consistency) at T0 (after manufacturing), nor after 2 months in an oven at 45°C (storage and accelerated aging).

By “majority” or “majority”, in the sense of the present invention, is meant that the compound is the majority among the compounds of the same type in the composition, that is to say that it is the one which represents the largest quantity by mass among compounds of the same type. Preferably, the mass of this compound represents at least 50% of the total mass of compounds of the same type in the composition. For example, in a system comprising a single fatty alcohol, this is the majority within the meaning of the present invention; and in a system comprising two fatty alcohols, the majority fatty alcohol represents at least half, preferably more than half, of the total mass of the fatty alcohols, in other words the mass of this fatty alcohol represents at least 50% of the total mass of the two fatty alcohols. In the same way, a so-called majority diol is the one representing the greatest mass among all the diols in the composition, in particular whatever the type of diol, including those of type A1 or A2 as defined according to the invention. On the other hand, the majority A1 diol is the one representing the greatest mass among all the A1 diols in the composition. If the composition contains only 2 A1 diols of equal content in the composition, they are both at 50% by weight, therefore one or the other can be considered as the majority A1 diol in the composition of the invention.

KIT

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

- On the one hand a textural block (a) comprising a formulation base composition and an aqueous phase; And

- On the other hand, a functional block (b) comprising one or more compositions,

in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously to form a final cosmetic formula, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a makeup, makeup removal, cleaning or care, skin, mucous membranes, appendages or hair;

in which said formulatory base comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

A) at least one diol, preferably at least two diols, containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

B) at least two fatty alcohols containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms; And

D) water.

Advantageously, said mixing is carried out by means of an asymmetric mixing device, in particular with planetary movement, such as a Speedmixer®. Advantageously, said mixture is produced at a temperature below 50°C, preferably below 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range from 15 to 30°C, preferably from 18 to 25°C. Advantageously, said mixture is produced directly in the final container of said cosmetic composition. Preferably, said mixing is carried out at a mixing speed in the range of 300 to 3000 rpm, preferably 1000 to 3000 rpm. Said mixture is preferably carried out for a period of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes, preferably 1 to 15 minutes, preferably 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 1 to 4 minutes, preferably 1 to 3 minutes, preferably 1 to 2 minutes.

Preferably, in the Kit according to the invention:

- the textural block (a) represents a content of 35 to 95%, preferably 40 to 90%, preferably 50 to 85%, preferably 60 to 80%, preferably 70 to 80%; And

- the functional block (b) represents a content of 5 to 65%, preferably 10 to 60%, preferably 15 to 50%, preferably 20 to 40%, preferably 20 to 30%;

by weight, out of the total weight of the final formula representing 100%.

Preferably, in the Kit according to the invention:

- the formulatory base represents 40 to 100%, preferably 50 to 90% by weight;

- the aqueous phase representing 0 to 60%, preferably 10 to 50%, by weight;

on the total weight of the textural block (a) representing 100%.

Advantageously, the weight ratio T, of the quantity of formulatory base (f) to the quantity of aqueous phase (e), regulates the texture of the final formula, according to the following formulation rules:

T > 1 gives a cream

T =1 gives a serum

T<1 gives lotion.

Preferably, the aqueous phase (e) contains at least 90% water, preferably at least 95% water, preferably at least 98% water, on the total weight of aqueous phase representing 100%.

In the Kit according to the invention, said at least one functional block (b) comprises at least one block chosen from the following blocks:

1) sensory or skin finish block, including in particular fatty substances, such as oils;

2) visual effect block, including in particular fillers and/or coloring materials;

3) block of active ingredients, including in particular moisturizing, firming, anti-aging, clarifying, or anti-blackhead agents;

4) protective block, including in particular anti-UV filters;

and their mixtures.

Advantageously, in the kit according to the invention, the modulation of T does not modify the cosmetic effect produced by said functional block(s) in the final formula.

Thus, the kit according to the invention, by allowing formulation by blocks, guarantees that the cosmetic effect produced by said functional block(s) is independent of T, that is to say the cosmetic effect produced by said functional block(s). functional blocks is the same regardless of the texture of the final formula.

Formulary base or “Engine block” of the formula or “BM”

The kit according to the invention uses a formulatory base (also called formulation engine block, hereinafter “BM”), preferably comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

A) at least two diols comprising at least:

- a first majority diol chosen from those in list A1 consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

- a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list A1 and/or those of list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

B) at least two fatty alcohols containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

And

D) water.

The applicant has noted that this formulatory base used according to the invention, based on water, a mixture of specific fatty substances (fatty alcohol and alkyl polyglucosides) and a mixture of particular diols, according to preferred ratios, provides a robust and therefore customizable formulatory base (or “BM” formulation engine block) combined with other blocks in a Kit according to the invention and in particular according to a low energy process at room temperature. It forms a common basis for the composition of different cosmetic products with very varied textures.

In addition, the formulatory base composition used according to the invention has in itself a stable cream texture without requiring the addition of gelling agent, which contributes to its minimalist side and its permissiveness for varying the texture, in particular by simple dilution in water without fear of destabilization.

Fatty alcohols

The formulatory base composition used in the kit of the present invention comprises at least one, and preferably at least two, fatty alcohols containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

A fatty alcohol can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

By “fatty alcohol” within the meaning of the invention, is meant any alcohol comprising: a saturated and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl function .

By “hydrocarbon chain”, we mean an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

A fatty alcohol which can be used according to the invention is formed of a fatty chain comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

By “fatty alcohol containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, we mean any alcohol comprising a saturated and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and a function hydroxyl.

Preferably, the fatty chain of said fatty alcohols is chosen from the units: cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, and their mixtures, more preferably from the units cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, and arachidyl.

The fatty alcohols particularly suitable for the invention can be chosen from cetyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE 16 by the company COGNIS, or stearyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE 18 by the company COGNIS, or the commercial product KALCOL 80-98® from KAO, or cetearyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE O OR by the company COGNIS; we can also cite arachidyl alcohol such as the commercial products HAINOL 20SS® from the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO. LTD and NACOL 20-95® from the company SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG); behenyl alcohol such as the commercial products NACOL 22-97® and NACOL 22-98® from the company SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG); and their mixtures.

The base composition used according to the invention comprises a mixture of fatty alcohols comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the total content of fatty alcohols in the base composition used according to the invention is in the range from 1 to 20%, preferably from 1.5 to 15%, preferably from 2 to 12%, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

According to the present invention, said fatty alcohols comprise at least one majority fatty alcohol present in a content by weight greater than or equal to that of each of the other fatty alcohols present in the composition, preferably said majority fatty alcohol representing more than 50% by weight on the total weight of fatty alcohols present in the composition, the total weight of fatty alcohols representing 100%.

For the purposes of the present invention, cetearyl alcohol (C16-C18) has the name INCI CETEARYL ALCOHOL, and although it comprises a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C16) and stearyl alcohol (C18), it accounts for only one fatty alcohol (cetearyl alcohol) in the composition of the present invention. The cetearyl alcohol is therefore associated with at least one other fatty alcohol, preferably associated with at least two other fatty alcohols, containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms in the composition of the present invention, such as for example arachidyl alcohol. (at C20) and/or behenyl alcohol (at C22).

Preferably said at least two fatty alcohols containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms include cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

Advantageously, the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of comparatively greater average chain length. In other words, among all said fatty alcohols, the content by weight of each fatty alcohol of radical R' in the composition is all the greater (compared to other fatty alcohols) as the chain length of its radical Alkyl R ' is smaller.

By way of example, the fatty alcohol contents in the composition of the invention are such that the cetearyl alcohol content (C16-C18 mixture) > the arachidyl alcohol content (C20) > the behenyl alcohol content (C22). In the aforementioned example, it is therefore cetearyl alcohol which is the majority fatty alcohol within the meaning of the present invention.

Preferably, said majority fatty alcohol is chosen from: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol, preferably chosen from cetearyl alcohol.

Advantageously, said majority fatty alcohol is present in the composition of the invention in a content comprised in the range from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Alkyl polyglucosides

The alkyl polyglucosides (hereinafter abbreviated “APG”), optionally polyalkoxylated, can be chosen from a group comprising the compounds of the following general formula: R ¹ O-(G) _a ,

in which R ¹ denotes a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical, and/or an alkyl phenyl radical, comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the group G a sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is a number ranging from 1 to 10, and their mixtures.

The alkyl polyglucoside may be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C16-C22 fatty alcohol and glucose, maltose, sucrose, xylose or fructose and ethers or mixtures of ethers. C16-C22 fatty alcohol and methyl glucose. The fatty unit of the ethers may in particular be chosen from cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, hexadecanoyl, octyldodecyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl.

According to a preferred embodiment, said at least two alkyl polyglucosides are chosen from cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl polyglucoside, octyldodecyl xyloside, and mixtures thereof, preferably cetearyl glucoside and arachidyl glucoside.

As examples of additional alkyl polyglucosides possibly present in the composition in addition to those defined above according to the present invention, we can also cite decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside marketed for example by the company Henkel under the respective names “PLANTAREN 2000” and “PLANTAREN 1200”.

The APGs which can be used in the composition of the present invention are advantageously chosen from: cetearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), sold for example under the name “MONTANOV 68” by the company Seppic, under the name “ TEGO Care CG90” by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and under the name “EMULGADE KE 3302” by the company Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name “MONTANOV 202” by the company Seppic, the mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35/65) marketed under the name “MONTANOV 82” by the company Seppic, octyldodecyl xyloside marketed under the names “ FLUIDANOV 20X” or “EASYNOV” by the company Seppic.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from “MONTANOV 68” or “MONTANOV 202” by the company Seppic.

Preferably, the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of lower average alkyl chain length is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of comparatively greater average alkyl chain length. In other words, and preferably in a BM composition according to the invention, an APG with a longer alkyl chain is found in lower content than that of an APG with a comparatively shorter alkyl chain. Or again, the content by weight of each APG in the composition is all the lower as the chain length of the Alkyl radical of said APG is greater. Thus, between two APGs, the one of the two which has the longest alkyl chain is preferably present in a content less than or equal to that of the two APGs which has the shortest chain.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, said at least 2 alkylpolyglucosides comprise: (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as cetearylglucoside; and (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as arachidyl polyglucoside; preferably in a weight ratio (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) to (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) greater than 1; preferably include, or even are, arachidyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside; preferably according to a weight ratio of cetearylglucoside to arachidyl glucoside greater than 1.

Advantageously, the total APG content is in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 4%, preferably 0.5 at 3.5%, preferably 1 to 3%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Advantageously, the BM composition according to the invention comprises two types of fatty substances:

- at least two alkylpolyglycosides (also called “APG”) of formulas (I) and (II):

R1O(G1)x1      (I)

R2O(G2)x2     (II)

in which R1 and R2 each represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, G1 and G2 each represent a residue of a saccharide, and x1 and x2 each represent a number between 1 and 5 ;

And

- at least two fatty alcohols of formula R'OH, in which R' is an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably whose alkyl part is identical to the alkyl part R1, R2 the aforementioned alkylpolyglycosides;

- preferably, the content by weight of each APG in the composition is greater as the chain length of the radical R1 or R2 is smaller.

- preferably, the content by weight of each fatty alcohol in the composition is greater as the chain length of the radical R' is smaller.

Preferably, in the formulatory base composition used in the kit and method of the present invention, the weight ratio of the total fatty alcohol content to the total APG content is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than 1.

According to a preferred embodiment, said composition comprises the following mixture of APG and specific fatty alcohols:

- from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 4%, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight of arachidyl alcohol;

- from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.1 to 1%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.75% by weight of arachidyl glucoside;

- from 0.1 to 3%, preferably from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol;

- from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 8%, preferably from 1 to 7% of cetearyl alcohol;

- from 0.1 to 4%, preferably from 0.2 to 3%, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight of cetearyl glucoside;

in association with diols and water, as defined according to the invention; said composition being in the form of a formulatory base or in the form of a final cosmetic formula.

Diols or glycols

The basic composition used in the kit according to the present invention comprises at least one, or better still at least two diols or glycols.

By diol according to the invention is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and carrying only two hydroxyl groups. The diol may be a natural or synthetic diol. The diol can have a linear, branched or cyclic structure.

The formulatory base composition advantageously comprises at least two specific diols comprising at least:

- a first majority diol chosen from those in list A1 consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

- a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list A1 and/or those of list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

The diol(s) A1 is(are) chosen from the group consisting of dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol; and their mixtures.

According to a first particular embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise propylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol; preferably consist of propylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol.

According to a second particular embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol; preferably consist of dipropylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol.

According to a third particular embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; preferably consist of dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol.

Preferably, said at least one diol A2 contains from 5 to 8 carbon atoms.

When present in the composition used as a base in the kit according to the invention, the diol(s) A2 is(are) advantageously chosen from diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the diol(s) A2 is(are) advantageously chosen from: pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof; preferably comprises (include) at least hexylene glycol.

Advantageously, the weight ratio R of the total quantity of diol(s), in particular A1+A2 if any, to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.75; preferably greater than 1.85.

Preferably, the weight ratio R1 of the total quantity of diol(s) A1 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the weight ratio R1' of the majority quantity of diol A1 to the majority quantity of fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

According to a particular embodiment, the weight ratio R1'' of the quantity of each diol A1 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one A2 diol, the weight ratio R2 of the total quantity of A2 diol(s) to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol being less than 1.

Preferably, the weight ratio R2' of the majority quantity of diol A2 to the majority quantity of fatty alcohol is less than 1.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight ratio R2'' of the quantity of each diol A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is less than 1.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the contents by weight are such that: the majority diol A1 content > or = the majority fatty alcohol content > the majority diol A2 content, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Preferably, the weight contents in the composition are such that:

the content of each diol A1 > or = with majority fatty alcohol content > the content of each diol A2, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Advantageously, the total content of diol(s) A1 is in the range from 5% to 40%, preferably from 7% to 30%, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. representing 100%.

Preferably, the total content of possible A2 diol(s) is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably is in the range of 0.5 to 5%, preferably 1 to 4%, of preferably from 1 to 3.5%, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Advantageously, said diols may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 10% to 40%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Water – Aqueous phase

The kit, and in particular the basic cosmetic composition used in the kit of the present invention, comprises water, and forms an aqueous phase with at least the diols present according to the present invention. The aqueous phase includes water and possibly ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as water-soluble solvents.

A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or a thermal water.

By water-soluble solvent, in the present invention is meant a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols, including those other than said diols according to the invention and having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol, ketones in C ₃ -C ₄ and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

The composition preferably comprises water in a content ranging from 2% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 5% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase is present, preferably, in a concentration of 2 to 99% by weight, preferably of 10 to 90% by weight, preferably in the range of 20 to 80% by weight, more particularly of 30 to 60% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Preferably, the quantity of water in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

The quantity of water in the composition according to the invention preferably varies in the range from 20% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40 to 80% by weight, and more particularly 45 to 75% by weight relative to the weight. total composition.

According to one embodiment, said glycol(s) in accordance with the invention and the water described above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a mass ratio said glycol(s)/ water, for example ranging from 0.05 to 5, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1.

Other ingredients

Advantageously, said at least one other cosmetic ingredient mixed with the formula base defined above, is chosen from: liquid fatty substances at the temperature of said mixture, in particular oils, such as vegetable, mineral or synthetic silicone or non-silicone oils. ; the water ; the erasers ; resins; UV filters, fillers, pigments, such as nacre and metal oxides such as titanium dioxides; non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, cationic, anionic, non-ionic or zwitterionic, associative or non-associative, clays, cosmetic active ingredients, in particular heat-sensitive active ingredients; water-soluble solvents; the perfumes ; peptizing agents; vitamins; conservatives ; and their mixtures.

Advantageously, said mixture comprises the dispersion and/or emulsification of at least one liquid fatty substance at the temperature of the mixture, preferably the emulsification of at least one oil, preferably in a continuous aqueous phase.

Sensory or skin finish block - Fatty body - Oily phase

The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

By “oil” we mean a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of the compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions according to the invention, may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is devoid of silicone oil(s).

A composition comprising a limited content of silicone oil(s) is advantageously more natural, but also lighter, less sticky and less rough to the touch, with a softer finish, than a composition comprising 2% by weight or more of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

By “non-volatile” we mean an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly comprising one or more, preferably one, carbonate or ester group.

The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

By “volatile oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg) .

Mention may in particular be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane. and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol® 12-97 and Parafol® 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n- tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from the Cognis Company, and their mixtures.

We can also cite the following mixtures of linear or branched alkanes, preferably of plant origin:

- a mixture of C15-C19 branched alkanes, for example that which is marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOGREEN® L15;

- a mixture of linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes, for example that which is marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOGREEN® L19.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular an undecane-tridecane mixture, and linear and/or branched C15- alkanes. C19, in particular a mixture of linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes.

In particular, such hydrocarbon oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 15.0% by weight, for example relative to the total weight of the composition.

As volatile silicone oils, we can cite linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

As cyclic volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

Hydrocarbon, fluorinated oils and/or non-volatile silicone oils may also be mentioned.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, we can in particular cite:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as squalane, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether,

- synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters can be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate;

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol,

- higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and their mixtures,

- carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate,

- non-phenylated silicone oils, such as for example caprylyl methicone, and

- phenyl silicone oils, such as for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with viscosity less than or equal to 100 c St , trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;

as well as mixtures of these different oils.

In particular, the composition may further comprise at least one non-volatile oil, in particular chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils.

By “non-polar oil” within the meaning of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, δa, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)½.

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:
- δ _D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;
- δ _p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
- δ _h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); And
- δ _a is determined by the equation: δ _a = (δp² + δh²) ^½ .
The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _D and δ _a are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

The non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atoms.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, it can be chosen from:

- paraffin oil or its derivatives,

- vaseline oil,

- polybutylenes, for example Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol), Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g/mol) marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco,

- polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example Parléam® marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol), the Rewopal PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol),

- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, for example Indopol L-14,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, for example Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol), Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) marketed or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,

- and their mixtures.

Said non-volatile oil can also be an ester oil, in particular having between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.

As examples, we can cite mono-, di- or triesters.

Ester oils can in particular be hydroxylated.

The non-volatile ester oil can preferably be chosen from:

- monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as for example Purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 alcohol benzoate at C15, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl palmitate -hexyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate, isoamyl laurate. Preferably, these are esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. carbon, R1 and R2 being such that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 18. Preferably, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate;

- diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is possible in particular to use diesters of dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Akzo;

- triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids such as triisostearate polyglycerol-2;

- tetraesters, in particular having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, tetraisononanoate of pentaerythrityl, glyceryl tri-decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or even pentaerythrityl tetra-2-decyl tetradecanoate;

- polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4- butanediol. Mention may in particular be made in this respect of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or even copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

- esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular which can be obtained from a dimer dicarboxylic acid derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular at C8 to C34, in particular at C12 to C22, in particular at C16 to C20, and more particularly at C18, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

- vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, such as for example that sold under the name Antaron V–216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol);

- vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil, in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois; and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;

- and their mixtures.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular saturated ones such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and/or unsaturated carbon chains having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol and esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R1 and R2 being such that R1 + R2 is greater or equal to 18, such as isoamyl laurate.

More preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular saturated ones such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 6.0% to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 10.0% to 20.0% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, distinct from glyceryl trihydroxystearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil” or “BY29” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.

As a fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax.

Such waxes can be chosen from lauric or lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol , montanylic alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.

As a fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one butter, in particular a vegetable butter.

The vegetable butter(s) suitable for the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, urucum butter and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.

These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example consistency or texture.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from mixtures of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 atoms, mixtures of linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, fatty acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from mixtures of linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular dicaprylyl ether, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the fatty phase, in particular such oils, are in particular present in the kit or in the final formula according to the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the kit or final formula.

Block to visual effect - fillers and/or coloring materials

Charges

As mentioned above, a kit or a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler chosen from talc, hydrophobic silica airgel particles, particles of N-acylated C ₈ -C ₂₂ amino acids, modified or unmodified starches, boron nitride, polymeric fillers, metal oxides , and their mixtures.

For example, a content of filler(s) of at least 5% by weight, in particular of at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously makes it possible to formulate a composition according to the invention having both stability and satisfactory sensory properties.

Furthermore, the nature of the filler influences the rheological properties and/or the sensory properties of the composition . For example, the fillers advantageously make it possible to formulate an emulsion presenting a good compromise between fluidity and thickness, not leaving a greasy and/or shiny finish after application.

Talc

As an example of talc suitable as a filler according to the invention, those marketed under the names LUZENAC PHARMA UMO (average size 2.7 pm) by the company WORLD MINERALS (IMERYS) can be cited.

Hydrophobic silica airgel particles

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO ₂ . This type of drying helps prevent contraction of pores and material. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles which can be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 1500 m²/g. 800 m²/g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, better still from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, in particular from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably 5 to 25 µm, better still 5 to 20 µm and even better 5 to 15 µm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET (Brunauer – Emmet – Teller) method corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Annex D). The sizes of silica airgel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 2000 particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed based on Mie diffusion theory.

The aerogels which can be used according to the present invention are in particular hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

By “ hydrophobic silica ” is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, of so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Concerning the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to document US 7,470,725.

We will preferably use hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with the INCI name Silica silylate.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® or VM-2270® (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, of which the particles have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g. We can also cite the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1200.

The particles of silica aerogels, in particular silylated silica airgel, may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 13%, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 5% by weight. , in particular ranging from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles

N-acylated amino acids suitable as filler comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group, preferably lauroyl.

The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.

According to a preferred embodiment, the particles of N-acylated C ₈ -C ₂₂ amino acids are lauroyl-lysine particles. As an example, lauroyl lysine powder marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL® (average size 11.7 μm) by the company AJINOMOTO can be cited.

The particles of N-acylated C ₈ -C ₂₂ amino acids may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 25% by weight.

Starches

The starch molecules suitable as fillers according to the present invention can have as their origin all plant sources of starch, in particular cereals, vegetables and tubers. More particularly it may be corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat or tapioca starches. The starch preferably comes from corn.

As examples, we can cite in particular Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by the company Remy; corn starch B® from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch.

The modified starch may be a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) carboxyalkyl starch, also called “carboxyalkyl starch”. These compounds are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of the starch, in particular by reaction of starch and monochloroacetate of alkali metals such as sodium in an alkaline (basic) medium. The carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used in the form of salts and in particular salts of an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as Na, K, Li, NH ₄ , a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine such as mono , di or triethanolamine. The (C ₁ -C ₄ ) carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxymethyl starches. The carboxyalkyl starches which can be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxymethyl starch (INCI name: SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYL STARK), in particular a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch, such as those sold under the name PRIMOJEL® by the company DMV International or GLYCOLYS ® and GLYCOLYS® LV by the Roquette Company.

The starch(s), modified or not, may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight. weight.

Boron nitride

Boron nitride is a chemical compound with the formula BN.

Boron nitride preferably has a number average primary size of between 1 and 50 µm, better still between 1 and 30 µm, more preferably between 1 and 25 µm, and even more preferably between 5 and 15 µm.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" means the maximum dimension that can be measured between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle. The size can be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or from the measurement of the specific surface area by the BET method or by means of a laser particle size analyzer.

As a commercial boron nitride usable in a composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of boron nitrides sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, in particular under the names PUHP3002, PUHP3008 or PUHP1030L, or even Softouch BN CC6058 Powder from Momentive Performance Materials.

Boron nitride may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.0% to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2.0 to 6 .0% by weight.

Polymeric fillers

By “polymeric filler” we mean any filler formed from particles of polymer(s), crosslinked or not, including homo- and co-polymers.

Such polymeric fillers are for example poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), hollow polymeric microspheres, in particular polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie ), acrylic acid (co)polymers such as hollow spherical powders of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) sold under the names COVABEAD LH85 (average size 7.5 pm) by the company SENSIENT or TECHPOLYMER MBP-8 (average size 7 .5 pm) by the company SEKISUI PLASTICS, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), polyurethane powders, in particular, crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone, particles of elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes optionally coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, such as the products marketed under the name KSP-100® (average size 4.3 pm) or KSP-300® (average size 6 pm), by the Shin Etsu company, (INCI name: VINYL 15 DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER), powders of organosilicon particles, for example in the form of bowls or rugby balls like those described in JP-2003 128 788, JP-A-2000- 191789, or in application EP1579841 and marketed in particular under the names NLK506© (average size 2.6 pm) and NLK602© (average size 2.3 pm) by the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, polyamide powders, in particular Nylon 12, those sold under the name ORGASOL® 2002 (average size 9 pm) by the company ARKEMA, or the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder sold under the name POLYTRAP® 6603 (average size 12, 2 pm) by the company DOW CORNING.

Metal Oxides

The fillers suitable for the invention can also be chosen from metal oxides, for example iron oxide, zinc oxide, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide, preferably iron oxide.

The metal oxide(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 7% to 15% by weight.

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from talc, hydrophobic silica airgel particles, acid particles N-acylated amino acids at C ₈ -C ₂₂ , modified or unmodified starches, boron nitride, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from particles of N-acylated amino acids at C ₈ -C ₂₂ , modified starches or no, and their mixtures.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 3%, or even at least 6%, by weight of at least one filler as defined above.

In particular, such fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 6.0% and 60% by weight, in particular between 8.0% and 50% by weight, in particular between 10%. and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the kit or the final composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and powders of N-acylated amino acid.

By filler, we must understand particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The fillers used in the present invention can be characterized by their specific surface area per unit of mass or per unit of volume, their size expressed in volume average diameter D(4.3), their unpacked density, and/or their capacity to oil absorption.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called BET method (BRUNAUER – EMMET – TELLER) described in “The journal of the American Chemical Society”, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D). The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.

The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: S _V = S _M x ρwhere ρ is the packed density expressed in g/cm3 and S _M is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m ² / g, as defined above.

In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called packed density:

Pour 40 g of powder into a graduated cylinder; then we place the test tube on the STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the specimen is then subjected to a series of 2500 compactions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then we measure the final volume Vf of packed powder directly on the test tube. The packed density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this case 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm ³ and m in g). The oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining powder oil intake described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below:

A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix with a spatula and continue adding oil until conglomerates of oil and powder are formed. From this moment, we add the oil one drop at a time and then triturate the mixture with the spatula. We stop adding oil when we obtain a firm and smooth dough. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. We then note the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used.

The oil intake corresponds to the Vs/m ratio.

The sizes of the fillers can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern. The data is processed based on Mie diffusion theory. This theory, exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers which can be used in the present invention have an oil absorption capacity of 0.25 g/g to 3.5 g/g, preferably from 0.93 g/g to 2 .5g/g, or even from 1.25 g/g to 2.5 g/g.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers which can be used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume average diameter D(4.3) ranging from 0.1 µm to 40 µm, preferably from 0.5 µm to 20 µm, and even more preferably from 1 µm to 16 µm.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention have an unpacked density ranging from 0.2 g/cm ³ to 2.2 g/cm ³ .

According to a particular embodiment, they have a specific surface area ranging from 30 to 1000 m ² /g, and more particularly from 150 to 800 m ² /g.

In the present application, the term “spherical particles” means particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting temperature of the medium (approximately 100 ° C. ).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the spherical particles of porous silica are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume average diameter D(4.3) ranging from 0.5 to 30 µm, more particularly from 1 to 20 µm, and preferably from 1 to 16 µm.

As an example of porous silica microbeads, the following commercial products can be used: Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or even SB 700, preferably SB 300 from the company MYOSHI KASEI; the SUNSPHERE range from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, notably the Sunsphere H-51 or the Sunsphère 12L, Sunsphère H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from the Sunjin company; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from the company JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly the Satinier M13 and M16, the MSS-500 silicas from the KOBO company, and more particularly the MSS-500-20N, as well as the Silica Shells from the KOBO company.

According to a particular embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles which can be used in the context of the invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume average diameter D(4.3) ranging from 0.1 to 35 µm, preferably from 1 to 20 µm, and more particularly from 4 to 15 µm.

As examples of spherical cellulose microparticles, mention may in particular be made of solid cellulose beads sold under the names CELLULOBEADS D-10, CELLULOBEADS D-5 and CELLULOBEADS USF by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO.

N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine.

According to a particular embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid(s) comprise an acyl group having 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is the lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylated amino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder such as that which is marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL by the company AJINOMOTO or that which is marketed under the name CORUM 5105 S by the company CORUM.

Coloring materials

A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate coloring material, water-soluble or not, and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of the specialist. art.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1.0% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 2, 5% to 15% by weight of coloring materials, relative to the total weight of said composition.

As specified above, the coloring materials suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also fat-soluble.

By “water-soluble coloring material”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, chlorophyllin copper, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

Water-soluble colorings are, for example, beet juice and caramel.

By “fat-soluble coloring material”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

As fat-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fat-soluble, synthetic or natural dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11. , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow , annatto, curcumin.

The particulate coloring materials may be present in an amount of 0.01% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

These may in particular be pigments, pearls and/or particles with metallic reflections.

By “pigments” is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and/or opacify the composition containing them.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1.0% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 2, 5% to 15% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Preferably, when the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it may comprise at least 2.5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight and more preferably at least 15% by weight, of pigments, for example relative to the total weight of said composition.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and/or organic.

As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be of the sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold for example under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio close to 30.

They may also be pigments having a structure which may be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Advantageously, the pigments according to the invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.

By “pearl”, we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacre, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

We can also cite, as an example of mother-of-pearl, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Among the mother-of-pearl available on the market, we can cite Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome mother-of-pearl (based on mica) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, Timiron mother-of-pearl marketed by the company Merck, mother-of-pearl based on Prestige mica marketed by the company Eckart and mother-of-pearl based on Sunshine synthetic mica marketed by the Sun Chemical company.

Mother-of-pearl can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

Advantageously, the nacres in accordance with the invention are micas covered with titanium dioxide or iron oxide as well as bismuth oxychloride.

By “particles with metallic reflection”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface condition allows it to reflect incident light in particular in a non-iridescent manner.

The particles with a metallic reflection which can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:
- particles of at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative;
- the particles comprising a substrate, organic or mineral, monomaterial or multimaterial, covered at least partially by at least one layer with a metallic reflection comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative; And
- mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te , Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (e.g. bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

By “metal derivatives” we mean compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.

As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC ^® by the company Siberline and Metalure ^® by the company Eckart and glass particles covered with a metallic layer in particular those described in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Hydrophobic treatment of coloring materials

The powdery coloring materials as described above can be surface treated, totally or partially, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, in particular so that they have good wettability with the oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.

Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in document EP-A-1086683.

The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; hexafluoropropylene polyoxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above designates in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

“Assets” functional block

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient may be at least one hydrophilic active ingredient.

The term “hydrophilic active ingredient” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredient capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

As hydrophilic active ingredients, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, anti-bacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

The additional asset(s) may in particular be chosen from:
- vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide) nicotinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives (vitamin C), retinol (Vitamin A),
- humectants or moisturizers such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, xylitylgiucoside and plant extracts (in particular tea, mint, orchid, soy, etc. aloe vera, honey, and in particular glycerol;
- C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (or proxylane);
- antioxidant compounds;
- anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid;

- keratolytic agents such as lactic acid or glycolic acid; And
- their mixtures.

C-glycoside compounds

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from C-glycoside compounds, in particular of the following general formula:

in which :
- R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical in C ₁ -C ₄ , in particular in C ₁ -C ₂ , in particular methyl;
- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH ₂ )-, and preferably a –CH(OH)- group;
as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

By way of illustration and not limitation of the C-glycosides more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be cited in particular:
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane is used, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside- 2-hydroxy-propane (or proxylane).

According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula illustrated above suitable for the invention may preferably be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, whose INCI name is Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, in particular available under the name Mexoryl SBB ^® , Mexoryl SCN ^® or Mexoryl SCS ^® by Novéal.

Salts of C-glycosides suitable for the invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

By way of example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or even aromatic acids. These acids may also contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. As an example, we can cite solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.

The C-glycosides of formula illustrated above are known from document WO 02/051828.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside in an amount of between 0.1% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.5% and 10% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly between 1.0% and 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Niacinamide compound

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from niacinamide compounds, in particular chosen from niacinamide (also known as Vitamin B3), N,N-diethylniacinamide, N- picolylniacinamide, N-allylniacinamide. According to a preferred embodiment, the niacinamide compound is niacinamide.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of adenosine or the like, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Adenosine and its analogues

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from adenosine and its analogues.

Among the adenosine analogs which can be used according to the invention, mention will be made in particular of adenosine receptor agonists and compounds increasing intra or extracellular levels of adenosine.

Examples of adenosine analogs include 2'-deoxyadenosine; 2', 3'-isopropoylidene adenosine, toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside; 6-chloropurine riboside, 5'-adenosine monophosphate; 5'-adenosine diphosphate and 5'-adenosine triphosphate, phenylisopropyl adenosine ("PIA"), 1methylisoguanosine, N-6-Cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N-6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2- chloro-N-6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N-6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, N-6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5' -Nethylcarboxamido-adenosine (CGS-21680), N-10-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5' (N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, metrifudil, erythro-9-(2-hydroxy3-nonyl) adenine ("EHNA") and iodotubercidin.

Adenosine is notably available commercially in powder form from the company PHARMA WALDHOF.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight of adenosine or the like, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ascorbic acid and derivatives

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, and/or one of its derivatives.

The ascorbic acid can be in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, and glycosylated ascorbic acid.

As an ascorbic acid derivative, mention may be made in particular of ose esters of ascorbic acid and metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

The ose esters of ascorbic acid which can be used in the invention are in particular the glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated Nacetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and their mixtures and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds as well as their preparation processes are described in particular in documents EP 487 404, EP 425 066 and J05213736.

For its part, the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid is chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

The ascorbic acid derivatives suitable according to the present invention can be chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate sold under the reference PRO-AA by the Exsymol Company, the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-dl -ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Sepivital EPC by the Company Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by the Company Roche and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by the company Hayashibara.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is preferably used.

A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.1% to 8% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hyaluronic acid

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes in the context of the present invention the linear polymer comprising the polymer unit described above, in a sequence by the alternating glycosidic bonds β(1,4) and β(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 13000000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of obtaining the hyaluronic acid and/or the preparation methods.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, in the context of the present invention, salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular alkaline salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt.

In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in peri-cellular gels, in the basic substance of the connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid articular, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristagalli process.

Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight notably included in the molecular weight range recalled above.

In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions which do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

As an illustration of the different hyaluronic acid fractions, reference can be made to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system”, R.Stern et al, European Journal of CeIl Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid based on its molecular weight.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50000 and 5000000, in particular between 100000 and 5000000, in particular between 400000 and 5000000 Da . In this case we are talking about high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions which can also be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case we are talking about hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

Alternatively still, the hyaluronic acid fractions which can be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case we are talking about low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising 1 with 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a substitution rate at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

Mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have notably been described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

Hyaluronic acid can in particular be supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (PM: 1.1 x 10 ⁶ ), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (PM: 820000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (PM: 69000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or even by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present in the form of spheres. In particular, such spheres are marketed by the company BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Sphere. It is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely PM 1.5 x 10 ⁶ , 400000 and 600000 Da.

Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used.

Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 3% and more particularly between 0.2 % and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Salicylic acid compounds

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from salicylic acid compounds.

The salicylic acid compound present in a composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of the following formula:

in which :
- the radical R designates an aliphatic chain having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more conjugable double bonds; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having 1 with 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R' is a hydroxyl group;
as well as their salts from a mineral or organic base.

Preferably, the radical R designates a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having 1 with 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical R is a C ₃ -C ₁₁ alkyl group.

Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid compounds, mention may be made of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl -5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

The salicylic acid compound is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and more preferably is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

The salts of the compounds of formula illustrated above can be obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. As an example of a mineral base, we can cite alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia.

Among the organic bases, we can cite amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts like those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting.

The compounds of formula illustrated above which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2,607,498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580, 549, EP-A-570,230.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one salicylic acid compound in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.05% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0. 1% and 2% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 1% by weight.

Plant extract

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one plant extract, in particular an extract of aloe vera .

The aloe vera extract may be present, in a composition according to the invention, at a content of at least 0.01% by weight, and at most 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0. 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The material preferentially used is known under the commercial reference ALOE VERA FREEZE DRIED POWDER 200:1 from MEXI ALOE LAB.

Retinol

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise retinol, otherwise called Vitamin A.

By “ retinol ” within the meaning of the present invention is meant all isomers of retinol, in particular all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, 9-cis retinol and 3,4- didehydroretinol.

Preferably, all-trans retinol is used.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a quantity of retinol of between 0.02% and 5.0% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 3.0% by weight, preferably between 0.08% and 1.0% by weight, and more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that the retinol content corresponds to the content of active material, also called dry matter, of retinol introduced into the composition.

According to a particular variant of embodiment, the retinol can be introduced into the composition dissolved in an oil, such as a vegetable oil, for example soybean oil, in particular in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, of preferably about 10% by weight in the oil.

Those marketed by the company BASF are particularly suitable, in particular under the name Retinol 10SU, with 10% by weight of active ingredient in soybean oil.

According to another particular embodiment, retinol can also be used in an encapsulated form.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from humectants, preferably glycerin; C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate; salicylic acid compounds, and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, adenosine and its analogues, plant extracts, retinoids, especially retinol, niacinamide compounds; and their mixtures.

Even more preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one anti-aging cosmetic active ingredient, in particular chosen from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, or proxylane, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, salicylic acid compounds. , ascorbic acid, and their mixtures, more particularly chosen from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, and their mixtures.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 10% by weight of active ingredient(s), in particular anti-aging active ingredient(s), preferably from 1% to 8% by weight of active ingredient. (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from C-glycoside compounds, preferably chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and better C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (or proxylane).

Protective block - UV filters
Organic UV filters

The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV filters. These can be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV filters, lipophilic organic UV filters and insoluble organic UV filters.

By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in the form micellar) in a liquid aqueous phase.

By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form ) in a liquid fatty phase.

By “insoluble UV filter” is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after return to ambient temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

Organic UV filters are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and their mixtures.

As examples of organic photoprotective agents, we can cite those designated below under their INCI name.

Cinnamic compounds:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,

DEA Methoxycinnamate,

Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,

Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

Para-aminobenzoic compounds:

PABA,

Ethyl PABA,

Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name “ESCALOL 507®” by ISP,

Glyceryl PABA,

PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “UVINUL P 25®” by BASF.

Salicylic compounds:

Homosalate sold under the name “Eusolex HMS®” by Rona/EM Industries,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS®” by Symrise,

Dipropylene glycol Salicylate sold under the name “DIPSAL ®” by SCHER,

TEA Salicylate, sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN TS®” by Symrise.

β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds:

Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 539®” by BASF,

Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 35®” by BASF.

Benzophenone compounds:

Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name “UVINUL 400®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name “UVINUL D 50®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL M 40®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name “UVINUL MS 40®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-5,

Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name “Helisorb 11®” by Norquay,

Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24®” by American Cyanamid,

Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name “UVINUL DS 49®” by BASF,

Benzophenone-12,

2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-n-hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name “UVINUL A Plus ®” or in mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL A Plus B®” by the company BASF ,

1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007/ 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form aqueous dispersion.

Benzylidene camphor compounds:

3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SD®” by CHIMEX,

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX 6300®” by MERCK,

Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SL®” by CHIMEX,

Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SO®” by CHIMEX,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SX®” by CHIMEX,

Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SW®” by CHIMEX.

Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232®” by MERCK.

Bis-benzoazolyl compounds:

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN AP®” by Haarmann and REIMER.

Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:

Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole®” by RHODIA CHIMIE.

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:

Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB/100 ®” by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549 in particular sold under the trade name “TINOSORB M®” by BASF or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm in the presence of at least one mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in the application WO2009/063392.

Triazine compounds:

- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, with the following chemical formula:

- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB S®” by BASF,

- Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL T 150®” by BASF,

- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB HEB ®” by SIGMA 3V,

- dineopentyl 2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

- diisobutyl 2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

- n-butyl 2,4-bis-(4’-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

- dineopentyl 2,4-bis-(4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

- symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine which is included in the patent applications WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985, these compounds being used advantageously in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

- triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3- tetramethyl-1-[(trimethyl¬silyl¬oxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

Anthranilic compounds:

Menthyl anthranilate sold under the commercial trade name “NEO HELIOPAN MA®” by Symrise.

Imidazoline compounds:

Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

Benzalmalonate compounds:

Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds:

1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

Benzoxazole compounds:

2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name 'Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3V.

Preferential organic filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Benzophenone-3,

Benzophenone-4,

Benzophenone-5,

n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,

Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino diisobutyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

2,4-bis-(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s- triazine,

2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine,

2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine

Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

Polysilicone-15,

1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine,

and their mixtures.

Particularly preferred organic filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s- triazine,

Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

and their mixtures.

According to a first particular embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Octocrylene,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

and their mixtures.

According to a second particular embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of octocrylene. The term “free from octocrylene” means a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene.

The organic UV filters may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 60% by weight. 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional UV filters

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV filter.

The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, and even more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm. between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm.

They may in particular be chosen from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or mixtures thereof.

Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK AND DEGUSSA.

Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:

- silica such as the products “SUNVEIL®” from the company IKEDA, “SUNSIL TIN 50” from the company SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE,

- silica and iron oxide such as the product “SUNVEIL F®” from the company IKEDA,

- silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA®" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE,

- alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)®" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)®" from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W ®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" from the company UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK,

- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product “MT-100 AQ®” from the company TAYCA,

- alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S®” from the company TAYCA,

- iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F®” from the company TAYCA,

- zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351®" from the company TAYCA,

- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS®" from the company TAYCA,

- silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS®" from the company TITAN KOGYO,

- silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195®" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

- alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)®" from the company ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262®" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

- triethanolamine such as the product “STT-65-S” from the company TITAN KOGYO,

- stearic acid such as the product “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)®” from the company ISHIHARA,

- sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W®” from the company TAYCA,

- TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name “T 805®” by the company DEGUSSA SILICES,

- TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name “70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®” by the company CARDRE,

- anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC®" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES,

- TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) from CRODA,

- TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD from CRODA),

- TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50,

- TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.

We can also cite TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as for example a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, an ester of fatty acid and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from fatty acid esters and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE like the product sold under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 ® by the company CRODA.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B®", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the company WACKHER under the name "Transparent titanium oxide PW®", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR®", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS®" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ ".

Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

- those marketed under the name “Z-cote” by the company Sunsmart;

- those marketed under the name “Nanox®” by the company Elementis;

- those marketed under the name “Nanogard WCD 2025®” by the company Nanophase Technologies.

Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:

- those marketed under the name “Zinc Oxide CS-5®” by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane);

- those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by the company Nanophase Technologies (in dispersion at 40% in Finsolv TN®, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate);

- those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-30®" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50®" by the company Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated cyclopolymethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane);

- those marketed under the name “NFD Ultrafine ZnO®” by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl-based copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);

- those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);

- those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100®" by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene/methicone copolymer mixture);

- those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);

- those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN®" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).

Uncoated cerium oxide pigments can for example be those sold under the name “COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE®” by the company RHONE POULENC.

Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names “NANOGARD WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)”, “NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ”, “NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®”, “NANOGARD WCD 2006 ® (FE 45R®)", or by the MITSUBISHI company under the name "TY-220®".

Coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®", "NANOGARD WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345 ®", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL®", or by the company BASF under the name "TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE®".

We can also cite mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A ®", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product “M 211®” sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.

According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

When present in the composition according to the invention, the mineral UV filters are advantageously present at a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Finally, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition obtained from the cosmetic kit as defined above.

Shape s and t texture s compositions according to the invention

The cosmetic kit according to the invention comprises:

- on the one hand a formulation base composition (a) of composition in accordance with the invention, and

- on the other hand one or more compositions (b),

in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously.

Advantageously, the kit and the block mixing process of the invention allow the manufacture of at least one cosmetic product with a personalized texture, for example directly in the final container. Said basic composition (engine block) is mixed in blocks, with one or more other compositions or blocks, in particular pre-formulated(s), said mixture being preferably carried out at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50° C, preferably at room temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably from 200 to 2800 rpm, preferably from 200 to 2500 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final container (or “pack” or “packaging”) of said cosmetic product supplied to the user .

The composition according to the invention can be in liquid form, in the form of a serum, of a milk, in thickened form, in particular a gel, a cream, a wax, a paste, a butter or in the form of foam. .

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional compounds chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic, associative or not. associative, silicones in the form of oil, gums or resins or non-silicone vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, UV filters, fillers, such as nacre and metal oxides such as titanium dioxides, clays , cosmetic active ingredients, perfumes, peptizing agents, vitamins and preservatives.

The technical characteristics described above concerning the different ingredients of the BM composition used according to the present invention obviously also apply to any cosmetic composition prepared from the composition of this BM.

Finally, the subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic process for caring for, making up or removing make-up from the skin, including the scalp, hair and/or lips, comprising application to the skin, hair and/or lips. or the lips, of a composition as defined according to the invention.

From a consumer experience perspective, skincare personalization relies on 3 key steps:

1) The diagnosis which makes it possible to analyze the condition of the skin and recommend a personalized routine to the consumer,

2) An e-order interface to define and order the personalized product, and finally

3) Receipt of personalized products.

Technically, the overall personalization offer can also include a diagnostic step to guide the recommendation to the consumer, to complete the simple and agile formulation system, in particular by blocks in the form of a kit according to the invention, which allows a wide range of textures and functions, as well as an industrial tool adapted to customization such as the micro-factory.

The present invention therefore also relates to a method comprising at least the following steps:

1) a diagnostic step which allows the condition of the skin to be analyzed and a personalized routine to be recommended to the consumer

2) a step of ordering at least one personalized kit, preferably via an e-order interface

3) a possible step of simple and agile formulation that allows a wide range of textures and functions

4) a stage of receipt of the personalized kit(s) or final formula by the consumer.

The composition according to the invention is not limited to the embodiments which have just been described.

Protocols for measuring the parameters cited and measured in this description of the invention:

Protocol for measuring the biomechanical properties (extensibility, tone) of the skin by DTM:

Skin elasticity was evaluated, by the following DTM parameters: Extensibility Ue and Tonicity Ur, using the device available under the trade name Dermal Torque Meter ^® from DTM ^® Dia-Stron Limited, Andover, Hampshire, United Kingdom . This device makes it possible to study the response of the skin to a deformation applied in the direction parallel to its surface, as described in Escoffier C et al., Age-Related Mechanical Properties of Human Skin: an In Vivo Study, J. Invest. Dermatol., 1989, 93:353-357.

Study conditions: The measurements are carried out in an air-conditioned area at a constant temperature of 21°C ± 1°C and at a constant humidity of 45% ± 5% (recorded at each measurement). The subject is placed in the air-conditioned area, measurement areas uncovered, 20 minutes before the measurements and throughout the measurement period. The consumption of coffee, tea and any other substance likely to cause sweating is prohibited. Subjects should avoid any bending or rubbing on the test areas. During measurements, subjects should be seated with their forearms resting on a flat, rigid surface (table).

Application of products: The sites, without any hair, are marked on the inside of the forearms (4 sites on each forearm), using a mask and a pen which do not risk running when applying the product. The precise measurement areas are demarcated by a mask forming a circle 4 cm in diameter. A control zone is necessary. The sites are randomized. The quantity of product applied is 2 mg/cm ² under standard conditions. The product is applied with a finger until completely absorbed. In the case of several products, the fingering must be changed before each application.

Measurements: The measurements must be carried out double-blindly, for each evaluation time and for each zone. Each zone is measured once in different zones.

Sample size: The evaluation is carried out on a sample of 24 subjects.

Descriptive analysis: A descriptive analysis is carried out on demographic data. The quantitative variables are evaluated for each time and for [Ti-T0] for each formula, calculating the mean, the standard deviation and the max and min values. Qualitative variables are evaluated by calculating frequency.

Statistical analyses: Temporal effect for each formula - file split by the formula (8 with 7 formulas and a control: the untreated area). Analysis of variance (ANOVA) with fixed factor (time), random factor (subject) on raw data if data follows normal minimum otherwise within ranks. Normality test carried out on the residuals.

Comparison of time with the Tukey test.

Comparison of products: Analysis of variance (ANOVA) on deltas (Ti-T0) with fixed factor [products] and random factor [subject] on raw data if data follows normal minimum otherwise in ranks. Normality test carried out on the residuals.

Product comparison with the Tukey test.

Statistical analysis is carried out using SPSS software.

Significant statistical probability (noted “S”) p<0.05

Probability close to significance (noted “L”) 0.05<=p<0.1

No significant probability (noted “NS”) p>=0.1

Material and methods used in the present description of the invention:

- Planetary motion mixer : Speedmixer® TM DAC400FVZ. The mixer speed is set (in rpm) and the mixing time (in minutes) as shown in the example tests below.

- The viscosity of the composition is measured at room temperature (25 °C) using a RHEOMAT RM 200 viscometer equipped with a mobile No. 3 or 4 (M3, M4), the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the product (time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the mobile is observed), at a shear of 200 s-1. The results are given in UD (Deviation Unit), then using an Abacus transcribed in Poise then in Pa.s-1. In the context of the present invention, the cone/plane or plane/plane geometry was used.

- The consistency and flow behavior of the samples at low strain were obtained by rheological measurements using a Thermo Fisher Scientific Haake Mars III rheometer (Massachusetts, USA) using a cone/plane geometry. Samples were taken with a spatula (approximately 1 ml) from the center of the surface with the minimum shear possible. HAAKE RheoWin software from Thermo Fisher Scientific was used. The program begins by lowering the disc to 1mm above the platter. Then, the oscillating disk sweeps the sample with a deformation of 0.05 Pa to 500 Pa at a frequency of 1 Hz. The temperature is kept constant at 20±1°C. The Titanium disc used has a conical shape and has been sandblasted, its dimensions are 60.005 mm in diameter, 0.053 mm of truncation and a cone angle of 1.008°, its geometric factors of 1.768x104 Pa/Nm for factor A and 56.84 (1/s)/(rad/s) for the M factor. The complex shear modulus, G* (Pa), was obtained as a function of the deformation shear stress, τ (Pa). The rheological behavior of the formulas was analyzed. Measurements of conservation moduli G', loss or dissipation G'' made it possible to determine the complex modulus G* as well as the phase shift δ between stress and strain. These data are analyzed as a function of shear stress. The value of the complex module G* at the plateau preceding the break in the curve gives an idea of the consistency of the product at rest.

Examples

The examples which follow allow a better understanding of the invention without being limiting.

Tests used in the examples to evaluate the robustness of the BM used in the kit of the invention and associated protocols:

Acidic pH test (pH 4.5) Adjustment of pH to 4.5 with 7M citric acid solution (143.08 g/100 mL)
- Visually observe the evolution at T0, T24h, 1 week, 1 month, 2 months, of the appearance: OK homogeneity or NOK release (water base, oily phase on the surface)
- pH monitoring for up to 2 months Tamb and 45°C: if pH variation > 0.5 => NOK / if pH variation < 0.5 => OK T is of dilution in water (water/BM: 80/20, 70/30, 60/40, 50/50) In a polypropylene (PP) pot (185 ml) incorporate the BM at different concentrations 20g, 30g, 40g and 50g and QSP 100 water.
Stir with Speedmixer® (DAC 400) for 2 min at 2750 rpm
Visually observe the evolution at T0, T24h, 1 week, 1 month, 2 months, of the appearance: OK homogeneity or NOK release (water base, oily phase on surface) of the mixture T is NaCl In a PP pot (185 ml) incorporate 96 g of BM and 4g of the aqueous NaCl solution (25% in water)
Stir with Speedmixer® (DAC 400) for 2 min at 2750 rpm
Observe visually at T0, T24h, 1w, 1month, 2months the appearance: homogeneity OK / release NOK (water base, oily phase on surface) or if necessary to move to a lower mobile for viscosity measurement (eg: M3=> M2) NOK Test of c entrifugation of BM alone Add 10 g of formula to a centrifuge tube
Shake for 1 hour at 3000 rpm
Observe at T0 visually and under a microscope the appearance of the centrifuged BM: homogeneity OK / release (water pellet, oily phase on surface) NOK Emu L sification of h oils :
4 oils are tested separately:
Oil of jojoba, Dime thicone,
Squalane,
C15-19 ALKANE ( Emogreen L15 )
Make 200 g of formula by incorporating 54% of the BM, 10% of oil, and water qsp 100 in a PP 600 pot (750ml)
Stir with Speedmixer® (DAC 400) for 4 min at 2750 rpm; Then
1) Visually observe the appearance T0(homogeneity OK / release NOK); Then
2) Centrifugation at T0: homogeneity OK / release (water base, oily phase on surface) NOK; Then
3) V aging accelerated / rheology (G* consistency at rest = ratio between the elastic component G' / viscous G''): measurement at 2 months using the HAAKE MARS III rheometerof G* has 2m T 45°C , G* at 2m Tamb : if G* Tamb – T45°C > 50% NOK , if variation < 50% OK Jojoba oil emulsification test + NaCl Emulsification of 10% jojoba oil at 25°C using Speedmixer® 4' 2750 RPM + 1% NaCl Speedmixer® 4' 2750 RPM, then visually observe the appearance : homogeneity OK / release NOK (water base, oily phase on surface ) or if it is necessary to move to a lower mobile for viscosity measurement (e.g. M3=>M2) NOK Ultra centrifugal test ULTRAcentrifugation 30 mins 10000 rpm 40°C with 10% oil jojoba + 1%N has CL, then visually observe the appearance: homogeneity OK (water base accepted here) / release NOK = oily phase on the surface) Extreme test with 10% jojoba oil + 1% NaCl ULTRAcentrifugation 2X 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C
+ 5h 10000 RPM 40°C: homogeneity OK / release (water base, oily phase on surface) NOK.

Example 1 – Comp is right : process s according to the invention vs. classic process

The following compositions were prepared according to the processes described below:

INCI Ex1 Cp2 Ex3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.05 0.05 0.05 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 4.50 4.50 4.50 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 4.50 4.50 4.50 SALICYLIC ACID 0.18 0.18 0.18 AQUA 71.32 71.32 71.32 PROPANEDIOL 4.50 4.50 4.50 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.45 0.45 0.45 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 4.50 4.50 4.50 C15-19 ALKANE 10.00 10.00 10.00 MANUFACTURING TOOLS low energy: planetary Speedmixer® (no mobile, directly in the packaging) strong energy: classic industrial tank with rotor/stator strong energy: classic industrial tank with rotor/stator Assembly type BLOCK FORMULATION
Engine block 90% + 10% Oil industrial continuous formulation industrial continuous formulation Industrial advantage Agile: from a single block you can create several personalized compositions Only 1 product is produced in large quantities Only 1 product is produced in large quantities Oil introduction temperature (T, °C) 25°C 70°C 30°C Mixing speed 2750 rpm 4500 rpm 2000 rpm oil emulsification time 2-4 mins 30 mins 10-15 mins CONSISTENCY G* (Pa) 13,000 Pa 940 Pa 18,000 Pa TEXTURE high consistency: thick cream medium consistency: soft cream that flows easily under shear high consistency: thick cream Flow threshold (Pa) 31.83 14.24 32.28 OPTICAL MICROSCOPY LP x40 diluted and LPx10 undiluted at RT Presence of spherulites which respond to polarized light in the form of a Maltese cross with large drops of oil next to them without birefringence around the drops
No spherulites, no Maltese cross but drops of oil with birefringence around the drops
Presence of spherulites which respond to polarized light in the form of a Maltese cross with large drops of oil next to them without birefringence around the drops OPTICAL MICROSCOPY DICx20 diluted and undiluted at RT (ambient temperature, 25°C) Coarse ovoid drops
20 µm Round drops 10µm Quite coarse elongated drops
10-20µm
DSC
high enthalpy: 11.9 J/g (sample 19.18g) Melting peak: 59°C
Low enthalpy: 2.4 J/g (Fatty alcohol solubilization by hot oil)
(sample 20.61g)
1st peak at 43°C and 2nd melting peak: 60°C
high enthalpy: 10.2 J/g (19.18g sample) Melting peak: 58°C CENTRIFUGATION T0 , YOUR (25°C) OK
homogeneous and stable OK
homogeneous and stable OK
homogeneous and stable 1 WEEK 55°C
Homogeneous soft cream appearance
micro: coarse but homogeneous emulsion
PHASE SHIFT: Wax on the surface and liquid at the bottom
micro: Heap of wax Homogeneous soft cream appearance
micro: coarse but homogeneous emulsion PLAY TIME & TOUCH at TA More consistent , a little less slippery, a little less fresh, slightly less sticky, nude skin finish, not greasy and satiny. More fluid , slight transformation, very slippery, and fresh, a little more sticky, and more oily and shiny skin finish Advantages of spherulites versus without spherulites thicker texture (G*2x>), stability (stable at 1 week 55°C) and senso nude finish, no solubilization of fatty alcohols by oil (therefore enthalpy >10 J/g) more fluid texture (G*2x<), stability (phase shift at 1 week 55°C) and oily finish, solubilization of fatty alcohols by oil (therefore enthalpy <10 J/g) thicker texture (G*2x>), stability (stable at 1 week 55°C), no solubilization of fatty alcohols by oil (therefore enthalpy >10 J/g) Markers characteristic of the process in the composition obtained LP / enthalpy microscopy > for the same FIL LP microscopy / enthalpy < for the same FIL LP / enthalpy microscopy > for the same FIL

Completely unexpectedly, for the cold emulsification process according to the invention Ex1 or Ex3, despite a coarse emulsion at room temperature with drops of oil of average size 20 µm, the stability of the composition thus obtained is better and the skin finish is more natural (“NUDE”) and less sticky than with the composition obtained by the classic hot emulsification process in comparison 2.

The process according to the invention, carried out cold (T° 20-30°C) with a mixing speed between 1000 to 3000 rpm is therefore particularly advantageous.

Example 2 – Optimization of the BM used in the process of the invention

INCI Cp5 Np6 Cp7 Cp8 Cp9 Cp10 AQUA 90.00 90.00 90.00 90.00 90.00 90.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3.00 SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE 3.00 LAURATE SUCROSE 1.50 SUCROSE PALMITATE 1.50 SORBITAN LAURATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURATE (and) DILAURYL CITRATE 3.00 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DISTEARATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 3.00 POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE 3.00 Stability test acidic pH (pH 4.5) OK
NOK NOK OK OK OK Heating test at 45°C OK OK NOK NOK OK OK Heating test at 75°C OK NOK NOK NOK NOK NOK Electrolyte sensitivity test (1% NaCl) OK NOK OILS Emulsification Test 25°C, Speedmixer®, Aspect OK NOK OK NOK NOK NOK Stability test 2 months 25°C OK OK NOK NOK NOK Stability test 2 months 45°C NOK NOK NOK NOK NOK

Compositions Cp6 to Cp10 do not withstand the “first elimination tests” (Acid pH stability test (pH 4.5), Heating test at 45°C, Heating test at 75°C, Electrolyte sensitivity test 1 % NaCl):

The Cp6 composition is unstable at acidic pH and sensitive to electrolytes (1%NaCl). Cp7 is unstable at acidic pH; the compositions Cp8 to Cp10 do not resist at least one of the heating tests (45°C and/or 75°C).

Among all the surfactants tested (Potassium stearate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, Sucrose laurate/palmitate, Sorbitan laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 distearate/glyceryl stearate citrate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose distearate, cetearyl glucoside) in association with Cetearyl alcohol in water, only Cetearyl glucoside of the composition Cp5 (Alkylpolyglucoside, non-ionic) is robust to the "first elimination tests", as well as to the emulsification test of oils of different natures , and the stability test at room temperature (2 months at 25°C). Cp5 is however not stable in the stability test at 45°C (2 months at 45°C).

Example 3 - Choice of fats and optimization of the content s in fat body / diols in the BM

INCI US Cp1 1 Cp 1 2 Ex 1 3 Cp 1 4 Cp 1 5 Cp 1 6 WATER 79.24 79.24 79.24 79.24 79.24 79.25 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 8.00 6 4 2 7.00 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 1.38 2.75 4.12 5.5 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0.75 1.5 2.25 3.00 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 2.00 1.50 1.00 0.50 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.38 0.75 1.13 1.50 POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE 3.00 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 PROPANEDIOL 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 SALICYLIC ACID 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.05 Acidic pH Test OK OK OK OK OK OK WATER DILUTION test OK OK OK OK OK NOK 1% NaCl test OK OK OK NOK NOK OK OILS Emulsification test (diff natures) in Tamb using Speedmixer®, appearance: OK OK OK NOK NOK NOK OILS Centrifugation Test 1h, 3000 rpm OK OK OK NOK NOK NOK OILS Stability Test 2m45°C NOK NOK OK OK OK NOK

The BM based on Cetearyl alcohol made it possible to effectively stabilize emulsified oil drops at room temperature using a low energy mixing tool (Speedmixer®). However, depending on the nature of the oils, a solubilization of the fatty chains may occur during storage for 2 months at 45°C, thinning the system (creaming). The combination of Cetearyl Alcohol with fatty alcohols of longer fatty chains (Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Alcohol) made it possible to significantly improve this stability at a temperature of 45°C.

The table above indicates that the best results in the emulsification and stability tests of cold-formed emulsions (25°C) were obtained for the following combination of ingredients in the following proportions:

- mixture of the following fatty substances, with weight contents of each ingredient (INCI) on the total weight of the composition meeting the following criteria:

Cetearyl alcohol content > Arachidyl alcohol content > Behenyl alcohol content

Likewise, better results are observed if the following APGs are used and the contents of these APGs respect the following criteria in the composition:

Cetearyl glucoside content > Arachidyl glucoside content

- the content of propylene glycol and/or propanediol, when it is greater than the content of Cetearyl alcohol, makes it possible to stabilize the emulsion, in particular at 45°C.

The following tables also confirm this criterion of interest:

Propylene glycol content or propanediol content > content of each fatty alcohol.

The Cp12 and Cp15 compositions do not meet this last criterion, do not pass the 2m 45°C stability tests and the cold emulsification test respectively.

Advantageously, these preferred criteria are valid for the composition of BM as well as for the final composition which incorporates the BM.

According to Cp14, when these preferred characteristics of order of content between fatty alcohols are not respected, the formula is not completely robust: NOK for the salification test by addition of electrolytes (1% NaCl) and NOK for oil emulsification tests.

Preferably, according to the invention, the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is therefore: greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of higher average chain length. The contents are indicated by weight over the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, according to the invention, the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of average length of lower alkyl chain: is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of average length of higher alkyl chain.

For Cp12, the emulsification of oils by the BM after 2m 45°C is not stable. This shows the advantage of having a content by weight of diol A1 chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol preferably greater than or equal to the content by weight of the majority fatty alcohol.

In the case of Cp11 and Cp15 respectively where the composition contains only one alkylpolyglucoside, the 2m 45°C stability test shows that the formula is not stable, NOK; and the salification test (1% NaCl), shows that the formula is not stable, NOK.

Dilution test and obtaining textures are more fluid to the thickest

The BM of Ex13 was diluted with water at room temperature (25°C) to obtain a liquid consistency. Four different samples were prepared in the Speedmixer® with respectively 50%, 40%, 30%, 20% by weight of BM in water (qsp100). Stirring was carried out using a Speedmixer® (DAC 400) for 2 min at 2750 rpm.

The samples showed very different textures. All were stable even after centrifugation, and visual and microscopic observations were similar to those of the original BM sample (homogeneous appearance).

Rheometer analysis shows that the consistencies (G*: the consistency of the product at rest) are in different ranges, ranging from 100 Pa (the most fluid consistency for the most diluted BM) to 1300 Pa (the thickest consistency for the BM least diluted in water).

Obtaining butter by wax emulsification

The BM of Ex13 was used to emulsify 5% paraffin wax.

The product thus obtained has a buttery consistency, and is particularly gentle on the skin.

Rheology 24 hours after manufacturing indicates a consistency G*=1725 Pa.

Visual and microscopic observations show dispersion similar to that of BM at room temperature.

The process carried out from an engine block according to the invention is robust, since it makes it possible both to effectively stabilize oil emulsions, without requiring a stabilizer or additional gelling agent, and to produce several stable textures, of the liquid consistency to the consistency of butter.

Example 4 – Choice of diols

INCI Cp17 Cp18 Ex19 Ex20 Cp21 Cp22 Cp23 Cp24 Cp25 Cp26 Ex27 WATER 90.00 88.00 82.50 82.50 82.50 82.50 82.50 82.50 82.50 82.50 82.50 PROPANEDIOL C3 5.50 2.00 7.50 2.00 PROPYLENE GLYCOL C3 2.00 2.00 5.50 7.50 BUTYLENE GLYCOL C4 7.50 PENTYLENE GLYCOL C5 7.50 1,2-hexanediol (C6) 7.50 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL C8 7.50 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 5.50 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (4.00) (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE (1.00) 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (2.75) (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (1.5) (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (0.75) 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Jojoba oil emulsification test 10%, ASPECT T0 (according to the protocol described above) soft cream soft cream thick cream soft cream soft cream soft cream soft cream thick cream thick translucent soft cream thick, soft, oily cream soft cream Emulsification JOJOBA OILS 10% at RT Speedmixer ® 4min 2750 RPM
+ 1% NaCl Speedmixer ® 4' 2750 RPM, APPEARANCE: CREAM FLOWS
NOK CREAM FLOWS
NOK OK CREAM OK cream OK cream OK cream liquid
NOK liquid
NOK liquid
NOK Phase shift liquid
NOK OK cream ULTRAcentrifugation 30min 10000 rpm 40°C 10% JOJOBA oil
+ 1%NaCl NOK OK OK OK NOK OK NOK OK NOK NOK OK “Extreme” test with 10% jojoba oil + 1%NaCl: ULTRA centrifugation 2X 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C + 5h 10000 RPM 40°C
NOK
OK
OK
NOK
OK Conclusion of Oil Emulsification Tests NOK aspect flows by tilting the pot NOK aspect flows by tilting the pot OK, don't phase out and stay creamy OK, don't phase out and stay creamy NOK phase shift NOK phase shift NOK phase shift NOK aspect flows by tilting the pot NOK
phase shift NOK
phase shift OK

The best results of BM emulsification tests are obtained for BM compositions based on two diols, in particular chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and di-propylene glycol, corresponding to Examples 19, 20 and 27 according to the invention. The compositions resulting from the cold emulsification, by the BM, of the oils with the Speedmixer®, are particularly stable for these glycols. Stability in the NaCl Test measured by ultracentrifugation is better for Propylene glycol or Dipropylene Glycol in combination with 1,3-propanediol. With pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexane diol, or caprylyl glycol (alone) the cold emulsified composition is comparatively less stable, in particular in the NaCl Test, because the texture becomes fluid upon the addition of NaCl.

Preferably we therefore use propanediol between 3 and 8%, associated with propylene glycol between 3 and 10% in the BM engine block composition of the invention.

Hexanediol (7%) or Caprylyl glycol (7%), used alone, depending on these contents, do not promote the emulsification of oils at room temperature with the Speedmixer® and the emulsions thus obtained (Cp25, Cp26) are not stable to different tests, in particular to extreme tests (ultracentrifugation 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C with 10% jojoba oil + 1%NaCl).

However, when they are used combined with at least one of the preferred diols above, and used in contents less than 4%, preferably in the range of 1 to 3%, preferably 2 to 3%, by weight on the total composition weight of BM, the diol(s) containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms reduce soaping, thus improving the intrinsic sensoriality of the BM, without creating problems of instability during the emulsification of said BM, even in Ultracentrifugation test, as shown in the following table, for several levels of hexanediol.

INCI Cp28 Cp29 Cp30 Cp31 Cp32 AQUA qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 4 4 4 4 4 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 1 1 1 1 1 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5 5 5 5 5 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 7.5 1 2 3 C15-19 ALKANE 5 5 5 5 5 Hand soaping NOK OK NOK NOK OK Texture cream +soft cream +soft cream +soft cream +soft cream ULTRAcentrifugation 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C with 5% EMOGREEN oil
+ 1%NACL Cream
OK Liquid
NOK OK OK Cream
OK

When it enters into the composition of the BM, said second diol different from the first diol, and containing from 4 to 8 atoms, preferably represents a weight content of less than 4%, preferably in the range of 1 to 3%, preferably from 2 to 3% by weight on the total weight of BM composition.

For this reason, in the BM composition used according to the invention, and to guarantee the stability of the final emulsions incorporating it, the content by weight of each fatty alcohol is preferably greater than the content by weight of each of said possible A2 diols. containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms (other than di-propylene glycol).

Example 5 - DTM test for two formulas with different textures: cream / serum

Composition of the textural blocks (engine block and water block) used in the 2 examples of Kits (1 and 2) below according to the invention:

Textural blocks Formulatory base or BM PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5 PROPANEDIOL 5 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.75 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 2.75 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.5 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 4 WATER / AQUA 79,243 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.5 SALICYLIC ACID 0.2 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.057 Aqueous phase block WATER / AQUA 89.243 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5 PROPANEDIOL 5 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.5 SALICYLIC ACID 0.2 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.057

Composition of Kits 1 and 2 according to the invention:

Kit 1 Kit 2 Textural blocks: Formulatory base or BM 61.73% 38.58% Aqueous phase block 15.43% 38.58% Functional blocks: Sensory block 5% 5% C15-19 ALKANE Active block 1 8.57% (3% MA) 8.57% (3% MA) HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL Active block 2 9.27% 9.27% Glycerin T > 1
=> thick cream texture T = 1
=> serum

DTM test results:

They are identical for both formulas.

The formulas in the examples of Kits 1 and 2 all improve the biomechanical parameters of the skin: extensibility (Ue) and tonicity (Ur) for 4 hours.

Whatever the texture obtained from the Kit, the block formulation according to the invention made it possible to improve the hydration and firmness of the skin with identical performances for the serum (liquid fluid texture) as for the thick cream .

Composition of the final formulas obtained from Kits 1 and 2

INCI Final Formula of Ex Kit 1
(thick cream) Final Formula of Ex Kit 2
(liquid serum) ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 3.0865
1,929
CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3.0865 1,929 PROPANEDIOL 3,858 3,858 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 3,858 3,858 C15-19 ALKANE 5, 5, HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 8.57
(3% MA) 8.57
(3% MA) GLYCERIN 9.27 9.27 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.3858 0.3858 SALICYLIC ACID 0.1543 0.1543 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.044 0.044 WATER 62.6869 65.0019

Ultimately, the present invention succeeds in providing a kit allowing, from a versatile and versatile formulatory base composition, to "design" any type of cosmetic texture, and to respond precisely to the requirements of each, by offering a cosmetic product best suited to the desired cosmetic experience without compromising on the expected performance.

Claims (20)

Cosmetic kit including:
- On the one hand a textural block (a) comprising a formulation base composition and an aqueous phase; And
- On the other hand, a functional block (b) comprising one or more compositions,
in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously to form a final cosmetic formula, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a makeup, makeup removal, cleaning or care, skin, mucous membranes, appendages or hair;
in which said formulatory base comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
A) at least one diol, preferably at least two diols, containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
B) at least two fatty alcohols containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms; And
D) water. Kit according to claim 1, in which:
- the textural block (a) represents a content of 35 to 95%, preferably 40 to 90%, preferably 50 to 85%, preferably 60 to 80%, preferably 70 to 80%; And
- the functional block (b) represents a content of 5 to 65%, preferably 10 to 60%, preferably 15 to 50%, preferably 20 to 40%, preferably 20 to 30%;
by weight, out of the total weight of the final formula representing 100%. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which:
- the formulatory base represents 40 to 100%, preferably 50 to 90% by weight;
- the aqueous phase representing 0 to 60%, preferably 10 to 50%, by weight;
on the total weight of the textural block (a) representing 100%. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio T, of the quantity of formulatory base (f) to the quantity of aqueous phase (e), is greater than, equal to or less than 1, and regulates the texture of the final formula according to the following trends:
T > 1 gives a cream
T =1 gives a serum
T<1 gives lotion. Kit according to claim 4, in which the aqueous phase (e) contains at least 90% water, preferably at least 95% water, preferably at least 98% water, based on the total weight of aqueous phase. representing 100%. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which
said functional block (b) comprises at least one block chosen from the following blocks:
1) sensory or skin finish block, including in particular fatty substances, such as oils;
2) visual effect block, including in particular fillers and/or coloring materials;
3) block of active ingredients, including in particular moisturizing, firming, anti-aging, clarifying, or anti-blackhead agents;
4) protective block, including in particular anti-UV filters;
and their mixtures. Kit according to any one of claims 4 to 6, in which the modulation of T does not modify the cosmetic effect produced by the functional block in the final formula. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the base composition comprises at least A) two diols comprise at least:
- a first majority diol chosen from those in list A1 consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,
- a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list A1 and/or those of list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio R of the total quantity of diol(s) to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.75; preferably greater than 1.85. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio R1 of the total quantity of diol(s) A1 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio R1' of the quantity of majority diol A1 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio R1'' of the quantity of each diol A1 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the formulatory base comprises at least one diol A2, the weight ratio R2 of the total quantity of diol(s) A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol being less than 1 . Kit according to claim 13, characterized in that the weight ratio R2' of the majority quantity of diol A2 to the majority quantity of fatty alcohol is less than 1. Kit according to any one of claims 13 or 14, characterized in that the weight ratio R2'' of the quantity of each diol A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is less than 1. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of average lower alkyl chain length is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of average higher alkyl chain length. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least 2 alkylpolyglucosides comprise: (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as cetearylglucoside; and (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as arachidyl polyglucoside; preferably in a weight ratio (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) to (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) greater than 1; preferably include, or even are, arachidyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside; preferably according to a weight ratio of cetearylglucoside to arachidyl glucoside greater than 1. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the respective weight content of each of said lower average chain length fatty alcohols is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said higher average chain length fatty alcohols. Method for preparing a cosmetic product with a personalized texture, from a kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said textural block (a) is mixed with the functional block (b), said mixture being preferably carried out at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at an ambient temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 25°C, preferably close to 25 °C, preferably with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably 500 to 3000 rpm, preferably 1000 to 3000 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly into the final container of said cosmetic product. Non-therapeutic process for caring for, making up or removing make-up from the skin, including the scalp, hair and/or lips, comprising the application to the skin, hair and/or lips of a composition obtained according to the process of claim 19.