FR3130619A1 - Bioactive fraction isolated from roses of the Evanrat variety - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, its method of preparation, a composition comprising it and its uses, in particular for promoting and/or improving the skin nutrition, promoting and/or improving the skin barrier function, promoting and/or improving the rhythmic process of skin cells, and/or preventing and/or slowing down the aging of the skin.

Description

Bioactive fraction isolated from roses of the Evanrat variety

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to an extract of roses of the Evanrat variety, also called 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, in particular an extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction of rose petals , as well as its method of preparation. The invention further relates to a composition comprising an extract of roses of the Evanrat variety, or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction according to the invention and its use for promoting and/or improving skin nutrition, the skin barrier function, the rhythmic process of skin cells, preventing and/or slowing down the aging of the skin, and moreover preventing and/or slowing down the phenomena of chronic micro-inflammation of the skin.

STATE OF THE ART

The skin is the body's first protective barrier against the environment. It is daily subject to the effects of factors of exogenous origin (eg: UV radiation, temperature variations, atmospheric pollution, cigarette smoke, etc.) or endogenous (eg, hormones, etc.). All of these factors can disturb its balance, in particular its micro-nutritional balance, and/or alter its barrier function, and/or induce micro-inflammatory stress and ultimately contribute to skin ageing.

It is well known that the quality of nutrition is reflected in the health of the skin and that certain skin disorders are associated with deficiencies, in particular in certain micronutrients (Park K. Role of micronutrients in skin health and function. Biomol.Ther. 2015;23;207-217). Micronutrients are essential for the development and formation of the skin, the physiological renewal of the epidermis and the adaptation of the skin to its environment. In particular, the use of vitamins (A, E, C) and/or essential fatty acids is known in the formulation of cosmetic compositions intended for the skin, in particular for their protective and/or nutritional effect.

We also know the use of certain rose extracts. Patent application FR3066388 from LVMH Research describes in particular an aqueous extract of roses in the form of a 'cryoextract' and its in vitro effects, in culture of human keratinocytes, on the stimulation of the expression of several clock genes such as CRY2 , PER1 and PER3, as well as on the protein expression of keratin 10 (KRT10), a marker of epidermal maturation, and desmoglein 1 (DSG1), a marker of epidermal cohesion.

However, there is a constant need to find new extracts which make it possible to maintain and/or promote the nutritional balance of the skin and consequently to stimulate the regeneration of the skin, the skin barrier, reduce micro-inflammation and act favorably on skin aging.

The Applicant has thus developed a new extract from roses of the Evanrat variety, or ‘Jardin de Granville®’ roses, in particular, a new extract from the petals of said roses, in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction. Unexpectedly, the Applicant has demonstrated that this new extract in the form of a "bioactive serum fraction", also called "bioactive fraction isolated from roses" has effects that are further improved compared to those already known and described in the prior art. In particular, the extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from roses of the Evanrat variety, or ‘Jardin de Granville®’ roses, according to the invention improves skin nutrition by promoting cell survival in conditions of glucose deprivation. Furthermore, the extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from roses according to the invention acts on certain signaling pathways, and thus promotes and/or improves the skin barrier function, promotes and/or improves the rhythmic process of cells cutaneous, prevents and/or slows down the aging of the skin and prevents and/or slows down the phenomena of cutaneous micro-inflammation.

The present invention relates to a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety.

Preferably, said rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction comprises at least 500 μg/μL of at least one monosaccharide sugar chosen from fructose, glucose and sucrose, and/or at least 500 mg/Kg of at least one mineral selected from potassium, calcium and sodium.

Preferably, said extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from roses according to the invention, is characterized in that said extract is obtained from fresh rose petals of the Evanrat variety.

Preferably, said extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety according to the invention is characterized in that it is obtained by a process comprising the steps:

a) cleaning of the plant material, maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the plant material to obtain an intracellular colloidal dispersion (INN) and a material enriched in fibers (fraction A);

b) destabilization of the DCI with electromagnetic waves then mechanical separation of the intracellular colloidal dispersion (DCI) to obtain the supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (fraction B);

c) adjustment of the pH level in supernatant A until a pH greater than 6 is obtained, preferably a pH ranging from 6 to 7, then mechanical separation of supernatant A to obtain supernatant B and fraction C (cytoplasmic fraction) ;

d) adjustment of the pH level in supernatant B until a pH of less than 4.5 is obtained, then mechanical separation of supernatant B to give a "bioactive serum fraction" and a fraction D (precipitate); And

e) Optionally, mixing the “bioactive serum fraction” with at least one preservative and/or stabilizer.

The present invention also relates to a process for the preparation of an extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety or 'rose Jardin de Granville®' variety as defined in the present invention comprising the steps of :

a) cleaning of the plant material, maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the plant material to obtain an intracellular colloidal dispersion (INN) and a material enriched in fibers (fraction A);

b) destabilization of the DCI with electromagnetic waves then mechanical separation of the intracellular colloidal dispersion (DCI) to obtain the supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (fraction B);

c) adjustment of the pH level in supernatant A until a pH greater than 6 is obtained, preferably a pH ranging from 6 to 7, then mechanical separation of supernatant A to obtain supernatant B and fraction C (cytoplasmic fraction) ;

d) adjustment of the pH level in supernatant B until a pH of less than 4.5 is obtained, then mechanical separation of supernatant B to give a "bioactive serum fraction" and a fraction D (precipitate); And

e) Optionally, mixing the “bioactive serum fraction” with at least one preservative and/or stabilizer.

According to another aspect, the present invention for a composition for topical application to the skin and/or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and/or the neck, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety as defined in the present invention.

Preferably, said composition is characterized in that the extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001 to 50%, in particular from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and more preferably from 0.011 to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition.

The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin and/or the lips, intended to promote and/or improve skin nutrition; promote and/or improve skin firmness promote and/or improve skin barrier function, promote and/or improve rhythmic processing of skin cells, and/or prevent and/or slow skin aging, including application to the skin and/or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and/or the neck, of a cosmetic composition as defined in the present invention.

The invention further relates to the use of at least an effective amount of at least one extract of in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction fresh roses of the variety Evanrat as defined in the present invention as an agent for promoting and/or improve skin nutrition; promote and/or improve skin firmness, promote and/or improve the skin barrier function, promote and/or improve the rhythmic process of skin cells, prevent and/or slow down the aging of the skin and/or lips, in particular the face and/or neck skin.

The invention also relates to an extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety according to the invention or composition comprising it for its use in preventing and/or slowing down the phenomena of micro-inflammation induced by a stress of the skin and/or lips, in particular the skin of the face and/or neck.

DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

extraction method used according to the invention

Effect of different extracts on protein expression of filaggrin in human skin cultures.

Effect of different extracts on gene expression of 11β-HSD1 in cell cultures of human keratinocytes.

Effect of different extracts on protein expression of the CLOCK gene in human skin cultures.

Effect of different extracts on cell survival under conditions of glucose deprivation in cell cultures of human keratinocytes.

Effect of different extracts on the amount of collagen III in human skin cultures.

Effect of different extracts on the amount of collagen I in human skin cultures.

Effect of different extracts on fibrilin-1 fiber length in human skin cultures.

Effect of different extracts on the extracellular secretion of HMGB1 in cell cultures of human keratinocytes under LPS stress.

Immunolabelling of the membrane after Western-blot, quantification of the results.

Effect of different extracts on COX-2 protein expression in human skin cultures under LPS stress.

Effect of different extracts on the protein expression of transglutaminase-1 (TGM-1) in human skin cultures under LPS stress conditions.

Claims (8)

Rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, characterized in that it is obtained by a process comprising the steps:
a) cleaning of the plant material, maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the plant material to obtain an intracellular colloidal dispersion (INN) and a material enriched in fibers (fraction A);
b) destabilization of the DCI with electromagnetic waves then mechanical separation of the intracellular colloidal dispersion (DCI) to obtain the supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (fraction B);
c) adjustment of the pH level in supernatant A until a pH greater than 6 is obtained, preferably a pH ranging from 6 to 7, then mechanical separation of supernatant A to obtain supernatant B and fraction C (cytoplasmic fraction) ;
d) adjustment of the pH level in supernatant B until a pH of less than 4.5 is obtained, then mechanical separation of supernatant B to give a “bioactive serum fraction” and a fraction D (precipitate); And
e) Optionally, mixing the “bioactive serum fraction” with at least one preservative and/or stabilizer. Rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction obtainable by the process according to claim 1, in which the said extract comprises at least 500 µg/µL of at least one monosaccharide sugar chosen from fructose, glucose and sucrose, and/or at least 500 mg/Kg of at least one mineral chosen from potassium, calcium and sodium. Extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction of roses according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, characterized in that the said extract is obtained from fresh petals of roses of the Evanrat variety. Process for the preparation of an extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety or 'rose Jardin de Granville®' variety as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 3, comprising the steps of:
a) cleaning of the plant material, maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the plant material to obtain an intracellular colloidal dispersion (INN) and a material enriched in fibers (fraction A);
b) destabilization of the DCI with electromagnetic waves then mechanical separation of the intracellular colloidal dispersion (DCI) to obtain the supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (fraction B);
c) adjustment of the pH level in supernatant A until a pH greater than 6 is obtained, preferably a pH ranging from 6 to 7, then mechanical separation of supernatant A to obtain supernatant B and fraction C (cytoplasmic fraction) ;
d) adjustment of the pH level in supernatant B until a pH of less than 4.5 is obtained, then mechanical separation of supernatant B to give a “bioactive serum fraction” and a fraction D (precipitate); And
e) Optionally, mixing the “bioactive serum fraction” with at least one preservative and/or stabilizer. Composition for topical application to the skin and/or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and/or the neck, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective quantity of at least one extract in the form of a bioactive isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the extract in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001 to 50%, in particular from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and more preferably from 0.011 to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition. Process for the cosmetic treatment of healthy skin and/or healthy lips, intended to promote and/or improve skin nutrition; promote and/or improve skin firmness promote and/or improve skin barrier function, promote and/or improve rhythmic processing of skin cells, and/or prevent and/or slow skin aging, including application to the healthy skin and/or healthy lips, in particular the skin of the face and/or neck, of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 5 or 6. Use of at least an effective amount of at least one extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction fresh roses of the variety Evanrat as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 as an agent for promoting and/or improving skin nutrition; promote and/or improve skin firmness, promote and/or improve the skin barrier function, promote and/or improve the rhythmic process of skin cells, prevent and/or slow down the aging of the skin and/or lips, in particular the face and/or neck skin.