FR3122578A1 - Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular blend of surfactants and the combination of starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer - Google Patents
Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular blend of surfactants and the combination of starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer Download PDFInfo
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- FR3122578A1 FR3122578A1 FR2104857A FR2104857A FR3122578A1 FR 3122578 A1 FR3122578 A1 FR 3122578A1 FR 2104857 A FR2104857 A FR 2104857A FR 2104857 A FR2104857 A FR 2104857A FR 3122578 A1 FR3122578 A1 FR 3122578A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/91—Graft copolymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Emulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant un mélange particulier de tensioactifs et l’association d’amidon greffé par un polymère acrylique et d’amidon non greffé par un polymère acrylique. La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous forme d’émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant : a) au moins une phase aqueuse continue, b) au moins une phase huileuse dispersée dans ladite phase aqueuse, c) au moins un système émulsionnant comprenant : i- au moins un ester d’acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol, ii- au moins un ester choisi parmi les esters d’acide gras en C16-C22 et de sorbitan, d) au moins un amidon greffé par un polymère acrylique, et e) au moins un amidon non greffé par un polymère acrylique comprenant un amidon natif. Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular mixture of surfactants and the combination of starch grafted by an acrylic polymer and starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a) at least one continuous aqueous phase, b) at least one oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase, c) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i- at least one ester of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol, ii- at least one ester chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, d) at least one starch grafted by an acrylic polymer, and e) at least one starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer comprising a native starch.
Description
La présente invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique, notamment de type émulsion huile-dans-eau stabilisée par un mélange particulier de tensioactifs, et comprenant l’association d’au moins un amidon greffé par un polymère acrylique, notamment superabsorbant, et d’au moins un amidon non greffé par un polymère acrylique, préférentiellement un amidon natif.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular of the oil-in-water emulsion type stabilized by a particular mixture of surfactants, and comprising the combination of at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, in particular superabsorbent, and at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer, preferably a native starch.
L’invention a également pour objet un procédé non thérapeutique, de traitement cosmétique d’une matière kératinique, notamment de la peau et/ou des cheveux, et plus particulièrement de la peau, comprenant une étape d’application sur ladite matière kératinique d’au moins une couche de ladite composition cosmétique.A subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to the said keratin material at least one layer of said cosmetic composition.
L’invention a encore pour objet l’utilisation de ladite association précitée de 2 types d’amidons pour améliorer, c’est-à-dire augmenter, la consistance d’une composition cosmétique, en particulier la sensation d’épaisseur sous le doigt à l’application, tout en apportant un fini peau poudré, non collant, une fois la composition appliquée sur la peau.A further subject of the invention is the use of said aforementioned combination of 2 types of starch to improve, that is to say increase, the consistency of a cosmetic composition, in particular the feeling of thickness under the finger. on application, while providing a powdery, non-sticky skin finish, once the composition has been applied to the skin.
L’invention pourra être mieux comprise à la lecture de la description qui suit accompagnée d’exemples non limitatifs de mise en œuvre de celle-ci, en se référant aux dessins annexés, sur lesquels :The invention may be better understood on reading the following description accompanied by non-limiting examples of its implementation, with reference to the appended drawings, in which:
La formulation cosmétique est en pleine mutation. Les consommateurs ont une conscience environnementale renforcée, des attentes de plus de naturel, le besoin d’être rassurés sur les ingrédients des formules cosmétiques, en particulier sur leur innocuité, leur faible empreinte environnementale, leur origine, ou encore leur caractère renouvelable. La recherche cosmétique s’efforce donc de proposer des formules répondant le plus possible à cette quête de responsabilité environnementale, de consommation réfléchie, plus sobre, de produits cosmétiques à la fois plus simples et de qualité. Les consommateurs recherchent à la fois des produits « utiles » qui font la différence, et une simplification des routines beauté, celles-ci pouvant s’appuyer sur un savoir-faire ancien ancré depuis des générations. The cosmetic formulation is in full mutation. Consumers have a heightened environmental awareness, expectations of more naturalness, the need to be reassured about the ingredients of cosmetic formulas, in particular about their harmlessness, their low environmental footprint, their origin, or even their renewable nature. Cosmetic research therefore strives to offer formulas that respond as much as possible to this quest for environmental responsibility, for thoughtful, more sober consumption, for cosmetic products that are both simpler and of high quality. Consumers are looking for both “useful” products that make the difference, and a simplification of beauty routines, which can be based on ancient know-how anchored for generations.
Innover pour des textures utilisant plus de matières premières biodégradables, à l’impact environnemental le plus faible possible, est devenu la priorité pour les formulateurs, tout en restant à l’écoute de l’expérience sensorielle des consommateurs, les textures obtenues doivent continuer de satisfaire, et les produits de beauté rester toujours source de confort, de plaisir et de légèreté.Innovating for textures using more biodegradable raw materials, with the lowest possible environmental impact, has become the priority for formulators, while remaining attentive to the sensory experience of consumers, the textures obtained must continue to satisfy, and beauty products always remain a source of comfort, pleasure and lightness.
Ces dernières années, le remplacement des charges particulaires synthétiques dans les formules cosmétiques est devenu un enjeu majeur. Certaines charges se présentent sous forme sphérique, de taille comprise dans la gamme de 25 à 50 µm, et sont utilisées pour la texture et le toucher particulier qu’elles apportent notamment aux crèmes de soin en pot : une plus grande épaisseur sous le doigt en début d’application, comme un coussin, puis qui laisse sur la peau un film doux, poudré et non gras, caractérisant le « fini peau » après l’application.In recent years, the replacement of synthetic particulate fillers in cosmetic formulas has become a major issue. Some fillers come in spherical form, with a size in the range of 25 to 50 µm, and are used for the texture and the particular feel that they bring in particular to care creams in jars: a greater thickness under the finger in beginning of application, like a cushion, then leaving a soft, powdery and non-greasy film on the skin, characterizing the “skin finish” after application.
Le formulateur doit ici répondre au double challenge : d’une part de naturalité, dans laquelle les épaississants et charges polymères synthétiques sont remplacés par des matières premières plus naturelles, ou d’origine plus naturelle ; et d’autre part de sensorialité, pour que les formules plus naturelles présentent les mêmes propriétés sensorielles que les formules moins naturelles existantes qu’elles sont destinées à remplacer, les consommateurs étant notamment habitués à certaines propriétés sensorielles et de textures, par exemple caractéristiques des silicones et des charges polymères synthétiques.The formulator must respond to the double challenge here: on the one hand, naturalness, in which thickeners and synthetic polymer fillers are replaced by more natural raw materials, or of more natural origin; and on the other hand sensoriality, so that the more natural formulas have the same sensory properties as the existing less natural formulas which they are intended to replace, consumers being in particular accustomed to certain sensory and texture properties, for example characteristics of silicones and synthetic polymer fillers.
Par « composé naturel », on entend un composé que l’on obtient directement de la terre ou du sol, ou à partir de végétaux ou d’animaux, via, le cas échéant, un ou des processus physiques, comme par exemple un broyage, un raffinage, une distillation, une purification ou une filtration.By "natural compound" is meant a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding , refining, distillation, purification or filtration.
Par composés « d’origine naturelle », on entend un composé naturel ayant subi un ou des traitements chimiques ou industriels annexes, engendrant des modifications n’affectant pas les qualités essentielles de ce composé et/ou un composé comprenant majoritairement des constituants naturels ayant ou non subi des transformations, comme indiquées ci-dessus.By compounds "of natural origin", we mean a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments, generating modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound mainly comprising natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above.
À titre d’exemple non limitatif de traitement chimique ou industriel annexe engendrant des modifications n’affectant pas les qualités essentielles d’un composé naturel, on peut mentionner ceux autorisés par les organismes de contrôle tels qu’Ecocert (Référentiel des produits cosmétiques biologiques et écologiques, janvier 2003) ou définis dans les manuels reconnus dans le domaine, tels que « Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine », 2005, vol. 120, 9:10.By way of non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatment causing modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference of organic cosmetic products and ecological, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, vol. 120, 9:10.
Le remplacement de certains ingrédients synthétiques dans une formule, par des ingrédients plus naturels, peut entraîner des problèmes de changement de texture, des problèmes de stabilité, et peut nécessiter à son tour des adaptations sur les autres ingrédients de la formule à rénover, afin de retrouver la texture et la sensorialité initiales auxquelles les consommateurs sont habitués pour ce type de formules.The replacement of certain synthetic ingredients in a formula, by more natural ingredients, can cause problems of change of texture, problems of stability, and can in turn require adaptations on the other ingredients of the formula to be renovated, in order to rediscover the initial texture and sensoriality to which consumers are accustomed for this type of formula.
On cherche donc à formuler des compositions comprenant des ingrédients compatibles avec la formulation de produits cosmétiques plus « naturels » et qui présentent de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques, tout en étant stables.It is therefore sought to formulate compositions comprising ingredients compatible with the formulation of more “natural” cosmetic products and which have good cosmetic properties, while being stable.
La présente invention a donc pour but de fournir une composition de type émulsion huile dans eau, suffisamment consistante pour présenter une bonne tenue en pot, une épaisseur notable sous le doigt au début de l’application, et qui présente de bonnes propriétés sensorielles telles que l’absence de sensation de gras ou de collant pendant et après application.The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a composition of the oil-in-water emulsion type, sufficiently consistent to have good pot life, a considerable thickness under the finger at the start of application, and which has good sensory properties such as the absence of a greasy or sticky feeling during and after application.
La présente invention a également pour but de fournir une composition, notamment de type émulsion huile dans eau (H/E), à base d’ingrédients les plus naturels possibles.The present invention also aims to provide a composition, in particular of the oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion type, based on the most natural possible ingredients.
La demanderesse a maintenant trouvé que l’association d’au moins un amidon greffé par un polymère acrylique, notamment sous la forme d’un polymère superabsorbant au moins partiellement à base d’amidon, et d’au moins un amidon, notamment amidon natif, dans une émulsion huile dans eau stabilisée par un mélange particulier de tensioactifs, permet d’obtenir une composition plus naturelle et de texture caractéristique, présentant à la fois une bonne tenue ou consistance en pot et une bonne stabilité en pot, une épaisseur sous le doigt notable à l’application et un fini peau non collant.The applicant has now found that the combination of at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, in particular in the form of a superabsorbent polymer at least partially based on starch, and at least one starch, in particular native starch , in an oil-in-water emulsion stabilized by a particular mixture of surfactants, makes it possible to obtain a more natural composition with a characteristic texture, presenting both good staying power or consistency in pots and good stability in pots, a thickness under the noticeable finger on application and a non-sticky skin finish.
Cette association d’au moins deux amidons particuliers permet d’obtenir des émulsions ayant un aspect, un sensoriel, une texture, une consistance et en particulier une prise au doigt, comparables à celles obtenues avec des charges particulaires polymériques d’origine entièrement synthétique.This combination of at least two particular starches makes it possible to obtain emulsions having an appearance, a sensory aspect, a texture, a consistency and in particular a grip on the finger, comparable to those obtained with polymeric particulate fillers of entirely synthetic origin.
Claims (19)
a) au moins une phase aqueuse continue,
b) au moins une phase huileuse dispersée dans ladite phase aqueuse,
c) au moins un système émulsionnant comprenant :
i- au moins un ester d’acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol,
ii- au moins un ester choisi parmi les esters d’acide gras en C16-C22 et de sorbitan et les esters d’acide gras en C16-C22 et de glycéryle,
caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend en outre :
d) au moins un amidon greffé par un polymère acrylique, et
e) au moins un amidon non greffé par un polymère acrylique.Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
a) at least one continuous aqueous phase,
b) at least one oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase,
c) at least one emulsifying system comprising:
i- at least one ester of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol,
ii- at least one ester chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan esters and C16-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl esters,
characterized in that it further comprises:
d) at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and
e) at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer.
Priority Applications (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR2104857A FR3122578B1 (en) | 2021-05-07 | 2021-05-07 | Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular mixture of surfactants and the association of starch grafted by an acrylic polymer and starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer |
PCT/EP2022/062296 WO2022234092A1 (en) | 2021-05-07 | 2022-05-06 | Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular mixture of surfactants and the combination of at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and of at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR2104857 | 2021-05-07 | ||
FR2104857A FR3122578B1 (en) | 2021-05-07 | 2021-05-07 | Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular mixture of surfactants and the association of starch grafted by an acrylic polymer and starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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FR3122578A1 true FR3122578A1 (en) | 2022-11-11 |
FR3122578B1 FR3122578B1 (en) | 2025-04-25 |
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FR2104857A Active FR3122578B1 (en) | 2021-05-07 | 2021-05-07 | Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular mixture of surfactants and the association of starch grafted by an acrylic polymer and starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer |
Country Status (2)
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FR (1) | FR3122578B1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2022234092A1 (en) |
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2021
- 2021-05-07 FR FR2104857A patent/FR3122578B1/en active Active
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2022
- 2022-05-06 WO PCT/EP2022/062296 patent/WO2022234092A1/en active Application Filing
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