FR3118582A1 - ANHYDROUS EYELASH COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING SILICONE RESINS AND PLASTICIZER - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to anhydrous compositions for eyelashes comprising at least one MQ resin, at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit, and at least one plasticizer. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

ANHYDROUS EYELASH COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING SILICONE RESINS AND PLASTICIZER

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to anhydrous compositions for eyelashes, such as mascara compositions, comprising at least one MQ resin, at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit, and at least one plasticizer, preferably polybutene. The compositions have beneficial cosmetic properties including transfer resistance, long wear (eg, up to 36 hours), sebum resistance, sweat resistance, water resistance, heat resistance and moisture and/or lash volumization. The compositions can also have reduced viscosity compared to traditional volumizing mascaras.

BACKGROUND DISCUSSION

Mascaras are in particular prepared on the basis of two types of formulations: aqueous mascaras, known as "cream mascaras", in the form of an emulsion of waxes in water, and anhydrous or low-water-content mascaras, known as water-resistant mascaras (known as “waterproof”), in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.

Thickening or filler mascaras are generally known, and these mascaras can give volume to eyelashes. This effect is generally obtained by depositing a maximum of solid substances on the eyelashes. In general, it is through the qualitative and quantitative choice of solid particles, in particular waxes, that it is possible to adjust the application properties sought for such make-up compositions, such as for example their fluidity or their consistency, their covering power or their thickening power (also called filling or makeup power).

In addition, aqueous mascaras mainly contain a surfactant system, for example based on triethanolamine stearate, which makes it possible to obtain a stable dispersion of agglomerated wax particles in an aqueous phase. This system plays an important role in obtaining such a dispersion, especially at the interface in the interactions between the wax particles.

Anhydrous mascaras have the disadvantages, among others, of being dry, having poor flexibility, poor consistency and/or high viscosities which can produce lumps on the eyelashes.

It is therefore necessary to develop a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up the eyelashes, making it possible to obtain a smooth and homogeneous deposit on the eyelashes, while having a consistency that is easy to work with after application, which improves the volumizing and/or long-lasting.

The present invention relates to anhydrous compositions for eyelashes comprising at least one MQ resin, at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit, and at least one plasticizer, preferably polybutene. Preferably, the composition is a mascara composition.

The present invention also relates to compositions for anhydrous eyelashes comprising at least one MQ resin, at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit, at least one hard wax, at least one soft wax and at least one plasticizer, preferably polybutene. Preferably, the composition is a mascara composition.

The present invention also relates to methods for treating, caring for and/or making up the eyelashes by applying compositions of the present invention to the eyelashes in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the eyelashes. Preferably, the composition is a mascara composition.

The present invention also relates to methods of manufacturing an anhydrous composition for the eyelashes comprising the combination of at least one MQ resin, at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit, and at least one plasticizer , preferably polybutene, to form the composition. Preferably, at least one hard wax and at least one soft wax are also combined when manufacturing the composition. Preferably, the composition is a mascara composition.

The present invention also relates to methods of improving the properties of resistance to transfer, resistance to sebum, resistance to sweat, resistance to water, resistance to heat and humidity, volumizing and/or or long-wear of an anhydrous composition for eyelashes, comprising the addition to the composition of at least one MQ resin, of at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit, and of at least one plasticizer, preferably polybutene, to the composition. Preferably, at least one hard wax and at least one soft wax are also added to the composition. Preferably, the composition is a mascara composition.

The present invention also relates to methods for improving the properties of texture and/or viscosity of an anhydrous composition for eyelashes comprising the addition to the composition of at least one MQ resin, of at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit, and at least one plasticizer, preferably polybutene, to the composition. Preferably, at least one hard wax and at least one soft wax are also added to the composition. Preferably, the composition is a mascara composition.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The term "at least one", as used herein, means one or more components and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Except in working examples or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", i.e. say within 10% of the number indicated.

"Film former" or "film former" as used herein means a polymer or resin which leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed and/or or dissipated on the substrate.

"Transfer resistance", as used herein, refers to the quality displayed by compositions that do not easily remove upon contact with another material, such as clothing or skin. . The resistance to transfer can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating this resistance. For example, the transfer resistance of a composition can be assessed by a modified “kissing” or mass transfer test. This test may consist of applying the composition to a human keratinous material such as the eyelashes, then rubbing a material, for example a sheet of paper or cotton, against the eyelashes after the expiration of a certain time after the application , for example 2 minutes. Similarly, the transfer resistance of a composition can be assessed by the amount of product transferred from a wearer to any other substrate, such as the transfer of an individual's eyelashes to a garment when putting the garment on after expiry of a certain time following the application of the composition to the eyelashes. The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (eg, clothing, paper, or cotton ball) can then be assessed and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer resistant if a large portion of the product is left on the eyelashes of the wearer. Also, the amount transferred can be compared to that transferred by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, little or no composition is transferred to the substrate from the eyelashes.

"Long-wearing" compositions as used herein refer to compositions where the color remains the same or substantially the same as when applied, as seen with the naked eye, after a period of time prolonged. Long-wear properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long wear can be assessed by a test involving the application of a composition to the eyelashes and the evaluation of the color of the composition after an extended period. For example, the color of a composition can be evaluated immediately after application to the eyelashes and these characteristics can then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain time, for example after 24 hours or 36 hours. Additionally, these characteristics can be evaluated against other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

The properties of sebum, sweat, water, heat and humidity resistance, and volumization, as used herein, can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating these properties. For example, the properties of "sebum resistance", "sweat resistance" and "water resistance" can be evaluated by applying a composition to the eyelashes and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. and exposure to sebum, sweat and water, respectively. For example, the color of a composition can be evaluated immediately after application to the eyelashes and these characteristics can then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain time, for example after 20 minutes. Also, for example, resistance to sebum, sweat and/or water can be achieved by various means including exposure to sauna conditions (40 to 45% humidity and temperatures of 50° C to 56°C or a pool test (humidity 56.6 to 87.1%) for a defined period of time (e.g. 20 minutes).“Volumizing” properties can be assessed by consumer testing for determine the visual effect of volumization after application Additionally, these characteristics can be assessed relative to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions, using the same known methodologies.

"Viscosity" as used herein can be assessed by any typical means such as, for example, using a Helipath Brookfield T: 25 C SP 93/0.3 RPM (average between 30 s and 1 min). Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are a "cream" or have a "creamy texture", which means that the compositions have a viscosity of less than 1,500,000 cPs, preferably less than 1,300,000 cPs, and preferably less than 1,250,000 cPs, including all intermediate ranges and subranges such as, for example, preferably from about 400,000 cPs to 1,500,000 cPs, preferably from about 500,000 cPs to about 1,400,000 cPs, preferably from about 750,000 cPs to about 1,300,000 cPs and preferably from about 850,000 cPs to about 1,200,000 cPs, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.

The term "substituted" as used herein means that it includes at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups . The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

"Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point below about 100°C.

"Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point above about 100°C.

"Anhydrous" means that the compositions contain less than 1% water. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 0.5% water and preferably no water.

"Polymer" as used herein means a compound that is made up of two or more monomers.

"Exempt" or "substantially free" or "free from" as used herein means that although it is preferred that no amount of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible to have some very small amounts in the compositions of the invention provided that such amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the beneficial properties of the conditioning compositions of the invention. Thus, for example, "free of triethanolamine (TEA)" means that the TEA is omitted from the composition (i.e. 0% by weight), "substantially free of TEA" means that the TEA is present in amounts not exceeding 0.5% by weight, and "free of TEA" means that the TEA is present in amounts not exceeding 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The same nomenclature applies to other ingredients identified in the application such as, for example, silicone oils ("free of silicone oils", "substantially free of silicone oils" and "free of silicone oils" have meanings consistent discussed in this paragraph).

The compositions and methods of the present invention may "comprise", "consist of" or "consist essentially of" the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. For purposes of the compositions and methods of the present invention where the invention "consists essentially of" the identified ingredients and/or process steps, the "fundamental and novel property" of such compositions and/or methods is "volumization" and/or or “long-wearing” properties depending on the ingredients involved as described below. Of course, embodiments specifically intended to "consist essentially of" a property such as "volumizing" or "long wear" or "sebum resistance" or "sweat resistance" or "water resistance" or " texture" or "viscosity" or "resistance to heat and humidity" have as their only basic and new property the identified property.

Silicone resin component

The term "resin" used herein means a cross-linked or non-cross-linked three-dimensional structure. Silicone resin nomenclature is known in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby a silicone resin is described according to the various monomeric siloxane units that make up the polymer.

Each letter of "MDTQ" designates a different pattern type. The letter M denotes the monofunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO _1/2 . This unit is considered monofunctional because the silicone atom only splits onto the oxygen when the unit is part of a polymer. The pattern "M" can be represented by the following structure:

At least one of the methyl groups of the unit M can be replaced by another group, for example to give a unit of formula [R(CH ₃ ) ₂ ]SiO _1/2 , as represented in the following structure:

wherein R is selected from groups other than methyl groups. Non-limiting examples of such groups other than methyl groups include alkyl groups other than methyl groups, alkene groups, alkyne groups, hydroxyl groups, thiol groups, ester groups, acid groups, ether groups, wherein groups other than methyl groups may be further substituted.

The symbol D denotes the difunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO _2/2 in which two oxygen atoms bonded to the silicone atom are used for bonding to the rest of the polymer. The "D" motif, which is the main building block of dimethicone oils, can be represented as follows

At least one of the methyl groups of unit D can be replaced by another group, for example to give a unit of formula [R(CH ₃ ) ₂ ]SiO _1/2 .

The symbol T designates the trifunctional unit (CH ₃ )SiO _3/2 and can be represented as:

At least one of the methyl groups of the T unit can be replaced by another group, for example to give a unit of formula [R(CH ₃ ) ₂ ]SiO _1/2 .

Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetrafunctional SiO _4/2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

Thus, a large number of different silicone polymers can be manufactured. In addition, it would be obvious to a person skilled in the art that the properties of each of the potential silicone polymers will vary depending on the type(s) of monomer(s), the type(s) of substitution(s) ), the size of the polymer chain, the degree of cross-linking and the size of any side chain(s).

According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one MQ resin and at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit are provided. The compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, compositions wherein the silicone resin component consists essentially of MQ resin(s) and silicone resin(s) comprising at least one T unit, as well as compositions in which the silicone resin component consists of MQ resin(s) and silicone resin(s) comprising at least one T unit.

MQ Resin

Suitable MQ resins according to the present invention include trimethylsiloxysilicates, which can be represented by the following formula:

[(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO] _x (SiO _4/2 ) _y

wherein x and y may, for example, range from 20 to 200, preferably from 40 to 150, and preferably from 50 to 80, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.

MQ resin, available from Wacker, General Electric and Dow Corning, is an example of a commercially acceptable trimethylsiloxysilicate. Trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) is also commercially available from General Electric under the trademark SR1000 and from Wacker under the trademark TMS 803. TMS is also commercially available from Dow Chemical in a solvent, such as cyclomethicone. However, according to the present invention, the TMS can be used in the form of a 100% active ingredient, that is to say not in a solvent.

Silicone resin comprising at least one T unit

Suitable silicone resins comprising at least one T unit in accordance with the present invention are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patent Applications 2007/0166271, 2011/0038820, 2011/0002869 and 2009/0214458, the contents of which are incorporated herein. by reference in their entirety.

When the silicone resin contains at least one T unit, it may therefore be, for example, a T, MT, MTQ or MDTQ resin.

According to the preferred embodiments, the composition of the units of the silicone resin can be at least 50% T units, or at least 70% T units, or at least 80% T units, or at least 90% T units.

In the M, D and T units listed in the examples above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted. According to the preferred embodiments, the at least one silicone resin comprising at least one trifunctional unit of formula (R)SiO _3/2 is chosen from silsesquioxanes of formula: ((R')SiO _3/2 ) _x , in wherein x is in the range of 100 to 500 and R' is selected, independently by trifunctional unit, from a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, provided that at least one R' is a hydrocarbon group. According to preferred embodiments, the hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms is a methyl group. According to the preferred embodiments, the at least one silicone resin comprising at least one trifunctional unit of formula (R)SiO _3/2 is chosen from silsesquioxanes of formula ((R')SiO _3/2 ) _x , in which x is in the range of 100 to 500 and R' is selected, independently by motif, from CH ₃ , a hydrocarbon group containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, provided that at least one R' or a hydrocarbon group.

According to preferred embodiments, the resins may contain M, D and Q units such that at least 80% by moles or at least 90% by moles, with respect to the total quantity of silicones, are T units. T-resins can also contain hydroxyl and/or alkoxy groups. The resins can have a total weight of hydroxyl functions ranging from 2 to 10% and a total weight of alkoxy functions which can range up to 20%; in certain embodiments, the total weight of the hydroxyl functions ranges from 4 to 8% and the total weight of the alkoxy functions can range up to 10%.

The resin can be chosen from silsesquioxanes which are represented by the following formula: ((CH ₃ )SiO _3/2 )x, in which x can range up to several thousand and the CH ₃ group can be replaced by an R group , as previously described in the definition of the T units. The number x of T units of the silsesquioxane can be less than or equal to 500, or it can vary from 50 to 500, including all intermediate ranges and subranges. The molecular weight of the silicone resin can range from 500 to 50,000 g/mole, 500 to 20,000 g/mole, or 500 to 10,000 g/mole, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.

Suitable examples of such silicone resins containing at least one T unit include

polysilsesquioxanes of formula ((R)SiO _3/2 )x (T units) in which x is greater than 100, in which the R groups can be independently methyl groups or other substituents as defined above;

polymethylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes in which R is a methyl group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 5,246,694, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety;

polypropylsilsesquioxanes, in which R is a propyl group. These compounds and their synthesis are described, for example, in patent application WO 2005/075567, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety; And

polyphenylsilsesquioxanes, wherein R is phenyl. These compounds and their synthesis are described, for example, in US patent application 2004/0180011, the entire content of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that may be mentioned include those sold:

by Wacker under the reference Résine MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repetitive CH ₃ SiO _3/2 units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO units _2/2 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g/mol. The polymer is believed to be in a "cage" and "ladder" configuration, as shown in the figures below. The average molecular weight of the units in the “cage” configuration was calculated at 536 g/mol. The majority of the polymer is in the "ladder" configuration with ethoxy groups at the ends. These ethoxy groups represent 4.5% of the mass of the polymer. As these terminal groups can react with water, a small and variable amount of SiOH groups can also be present; And

by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KR-220L, which are composed of T units of formula CH ₃ SiO _3/2 and have terminal Si--OH (silanol) groups, under the reference KR-242A, which comprise 98 % of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si--OH end groups or under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si--OH end groups .

Examples of commercially available polypropylsilsesquioxane resins that may be mentioned include those sold:

by the company Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 670 Fluid or 680 Fluid. Typically, these commercially available products are polypropylsilsesquioxane diluted in a volatile oil such as volatile hydrocarbon oil or a volatile silicone oil such as D5. Dow Corning 670 and 680 fluids have the general formula R _n SiO _(4-n)/2 wherein R is independently selected from a hydrogen atom and a monovalent hydrocarbon group comprising 3 carbon atoms, wherein more than 80 mole % of the R are propyl groups, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, more than 60 mole % of the copolymer comprises RSiO _3/2 units, and having a hydroxyl or alkoxy content of 0, 2 to 10% by weight, for example between 1 and 4% by weight, preferably between 5 and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 6 and 8% by weight. Preferably, the polypropylsilsesquioxane resin has a molecular weight of about 5,000 to about 30,000 and a Tg of about -5°C to about 5°C.

Examples of commercially available polyphenylsilsesquioxane resins that may be mentioned include those sold:

by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 217 Flake Resin, which is a polyphenylsilsesquioxane with terminal silanol groups; And

by the company Wacker under the reference Belsil SPR 45 VP.

According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate and at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane.

According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise a silicone resin component consisting essentially of trimethylsiloxysilicate(s) and polypropylsilsesquioxane(s). The fundamental and new property of the silicone component is long-lasting.

According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise a silicone resin component consisting of trimethylsiloxysilicate(s) and polypropylsilsesquioxane(s).

The silicone resin component is preferably present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of active solid content ranging from about 2.5% to about 25%, preferably from about 3% to about 22.5%. , and preferably from about 5% to about 20%, by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.

The MQ resin(s) is (are) preferably present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of active solids content ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 1.5% to about 15%, and preferably from about 2.0% to about 10%, by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges in between.

The silicone resin(s) comprising at least one T unit is (are) preferably present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of active solids ranging from approximately 0.5% to approximately 20%, preferably from about 0.75% to about 10%, and preferably from about 1% to about 6%, by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges intermediaries.

The MQ resin(s) and the silicone resin(s) comprising at least one T unit are preferably present in the compositions of the present invention in a weight ratio of 10:1 to 1.1: 1, preferably 7.5:1 to 1.5:1, and preferably 6.5:1 to 1.75:1, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.

PLASTICIZER

According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one plasticizer are provided. According to the present invention, the plasticizer is an unsaturated C ₃ -C ₅ compound or a mixture of such compounds, preferably an unsaturated C ₄ compound or a mixture thereof, such as 1-butene, 2- butene, isobutylene, etc. Preferably, the plasticizer is a polybutene.

The plasticizer is preferably present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.5%, and preferably from about 1% to about 5%, by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges in between.

More preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain more silicone resin than plasticizer. Preferably, the silicone resin component and the plasticizer are present in the compositions of the present invention in a weight ratio of 10:1 to 1.1:1, preferably 7:1 to 1.5:1, and preferably from 5:1 to 2:1, including all ranges and subranges in between.

Wax

A "wax" designates a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.

“Soft waxes” can be defined as waxes whose melting point is below 70°C and, preferably, below about 60°C. "Hard waxes" can be defined as waxes whose melting point is greater than or equal to approximately 70°C and, preferably, greater than or equal to approximately 80°C.

hard wax

According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one hard wax are provided.

The hard waxes can be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and/or silicone-based, and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. Suitable examples of hard waxes include, but are not limited to, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, hydrogenated castor oil, AC 540 wax, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, hydrogenated castor wax, AC 400 wax, rice bran, C _20-40 alkyl stearate, alcoholic polyethylene wax, octanedioate, sunflower seed wax, fischer-tropsch wax, Chinese insect wax, shellac wax, behenyl fumarate, wax synthetic, betsawax RX-13750, phytowax castor 22 L 73, and vegetable wax.

The hard wax(es) is (are) preferably present in an amount of at least 10% by weight, preferably from about 10 to about 30% by weight, preferably from from about 12 to about 25% by weight, and preferably from about 15 to about 22.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.

soft wax

According to the present invention, compositions comprising at least one soft wax are provided.

The soft waxes can be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and/or silicone-based, and be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. Suitable examples of soft wax include, but are not limited to, paraffin wax, stearyl alcohol, ozokerite, synthetic beeswax, beeswax, candelilla wax, PVP/eicosene copolymer, hydrogenated jojoba wax, buttermilk palm, sumac wax, polyglyceryl beeswax, tricontanyl/PVP, silicone beeswax, stearyl stearate, ceresin, hydrogenated olive myristyle esters (e.g. phytowax olive 14 L 48), olive stearyl esters hydrogenated (eg, phytowax olive 18 L 57), Koster K82P, orange peel wax, pentaerythritol distearate, Theobroma Grandiflorum seed butter, silicone resin wax, polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, pentaerythritol tetrastearate, tetracontanyl stearate , fatty acid wax, behenyl alcohol, alkyl dimethicone wax, stearyl benzoate, berry wax, koster wax, silicone candelilla wax, ditrimethylolpropane tetrastearate, Clariant Licowax KST 1, dipentaerythryto hexastearate l, ditrimethylolpropane tetrabehenate, PDMS behenyl methacrylate graft, jojoba esters, waxolive, inholive, phytowax castor 16 L 64, hydrogenated macadamia seed oil, synthetic wax, dioctadecyl carbonate, lignite wax, lemon peel extract , ditrimethyloylpropane tetrastearate, C _30-45 alkyl dimethylsilyl propylsilsesquioxane, Hest 2T-5E-45, ditrimethylolpropane tetralaurate, Koster BK-34, fluoro polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, mixture of dilauryl adipate and ditetradecyl adipate, seed butter of Astrocaryum MuruMuru, wax of Myrica Pubescens, PEG-70 mango glycerides, oxypropylene lanolin wax, and hydrogenated coco-glycerides.

The soft wax(es) is (are) preferably present in an amount of at least 0.5% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight , preferably from about 0.8 to about 10% by weight, and preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges in between.

The hard wax(es) and the soft wax(es) are preferably present in the compositions of the present invention in a weight ratio of 20:1 to 1:20, from preferably 15:1 to 1:15, and preferably 10:1 to 1:10, including all ranges and subranges in between.

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise, on an optional basis, any additive usually used in the field(s) considered. For example, can be added dispersants, clays, antioxidants, oils, sunscreens, preservatives, fragrances, fibers, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, silicone elastomers, paste compounds, viscosity increasing agents, film forming agents, colorants and mixtures thereof. A non-exhaustive list of these ingredients appears in the publications of US patent applications Nos. 2004/0170586 and 2009/0142289, the full content of which is incorporated herein by reference. Other examples of suitable additional components can be found in the other references which have been incorporated by reference into this application. Other examples of these additional ingredients can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook ( ^9th ed. 2002).

Suitable clays include, but are not limited to, lipophilic or hydrophilic clays. The term “hydrophilic clay” denotes a clay capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water and forms a colloidal dispersion after hydration. These clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the book "Mineralogie des argiles", S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, ^2nd edition 1982, Masson, whose teaching is included here for reference. Clays are cation-containing silicates which may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of products which may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, as well as those of the vermiculite family, stevensite and chlorites. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

Hydrophilic clays which may be mentioned include smectite products such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites and beidellite. Hydrophilic clays which may be mentioned include synthetic hectorites (also called laponites), for example the products sold by the Laporte company under the names Laponite XLG, Laponite RD and Laponite RDS (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and in particular sodium, lithium and magnesium silicates); bentonites, for example the product sold under the name Bentone HC by the company Rheox; magnesium and aluminum silicates, in particular hydrated, for example the products sold by the company Vanderbilt under the names Veegum Ultra, Veegum HS and Veegum DGT, or calcium silicates, and in particular the product in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C.

The term “lipophilic clay” denotes a clay capable of swelling in a lipophilic medium; this clay swells in the medium and thus forms a colloidal dispersion. Examples of lipophilic clays which may be mentioned include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38 from Rheox), and hectorites modified with a _C10 to _C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for example hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox or Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis.

Preferably, the clay(s), if it(s) is(are) present, is(are) present(s) in the composition of the present invention in amounts of active material generally ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably about 0.25% to about 5%, and more preferably about 0.5% to about 3.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.

Suitable surfactants include, but are not limited to, surfactants having an HLB value of less than 8 and/or may include, for example, esters and ethers of sugars such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, stearate sorbitan, sobitan sesquioleate and mixtures thereof; fatty acid esters, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₄ , and preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ , and polyols, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, stearate polyglyceryl-2, PEG-100 stearate, sorbitan tristearate and glyceryl ricinoleate; ethoxylated and/or propoxylated ethers such as the ethoxylated ether of stearyl alcohol with 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name “Steareth-2”); and a mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol such as that sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company DOW CORNING.

Suitable oils include volatile and/or non-volatile oils. These oils can be any acceptable oil, including but not limited to silicone oils and/or hydrocarbon oils.

According to some embodiments, the oil carrier comprises one or more volatile silicone oils. Examples of these volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than or equal to 6 cSt and having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones being optionally substituted by alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils which may be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that can be used include KF 96A with a viscosity of 6 cSt, a commercial product from Shin Etsu with a flash point of 94°C. Preferably, the volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.

Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils are listed in Table 1 below.

Compound Flash point
(°C) Viscosity
(cSt) Octyltrimethicone
Hexyltrimethicone
Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
(cyclopentasiloxane or D5)
Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
(cyclotetadimethylsiloxane or D4)
Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6)
Decamethyltetrasiloxane(L4)
Shin Etsu's KF-96A
PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 (1.5cSt) from Dow Corning
PDMS DC 200 (2cSt) from Dow Corning
93
79
72

55

93
63
94
56

87
1.2
1.2
4.2

2.5

7
1.7
6
1.5

2

Additionally, a volatile linear silicone oil can be used in the present invention. Suitable volatile linear silicone oils include those described in US Patent No. 6,338,839 and WO03/042221, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, the volatile linear silicone oil is decamethyltetrasiloxane. In another embodiment, the decamethyltetrasiloxane is additionally combined with another more volatile solvent than the decamethyltetrasiloxane.

According to other embodiments, the oil carrier comprises one or more volatile non-silicone oils and can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters and volatile ethers. Examples of these volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and in particular branched C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkanes such as isoalkanes in C ₈ to C ₁₆ (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the non-silicone volatile oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.

Non-limiting examples of volatile non-silicone oils are given in Table 2 below.

Compound Flash point (°C) Isododecane
n-butyl propylene glycol ether
Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate
Propylene Glycol Methyl Ether Acetate
Isopar L (C ₁₁ -C ₁₃ isoparaffin)
Isopar H (C ₁₁ -C ₁₂ isoparaffin) 43
60
58
46

62
56

The volatility of solvents/oils can be determined using the evaporation rate as set forth in U.S. Patent No. 6,338,839, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

According to other embodiments of the present invention, the oil carrier comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, polar oils such as:

- vegetable oils based on hydrocarbons with a high triglyceride content, made up of fatty acid esters of glycerol, whose fatty acids can have various chain lengths, these chains can be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea butter, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, black currant seed oil, evening primrose oil, oil millet, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or rosehip oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel;

- synthetic oils or esters of formula R ₅ COOR ₆ in which R ₅ represents a higher fatty acid residue, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R ₆ represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with R ₆ + R ₇ ≥ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates; hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate, and pentaerythritol esters;

- synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- C ₈ to C ₂₆ fatty alcohols, for example oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol; And

- mixtures thereof.

Additionally, examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, non-polar oils such as branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, including polyolefins, in particular petrolatum (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene and mixtures thereof.

According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the compositions may further comprise a desired agent. The desired agent can be, for example, any colorant (pigment, tint, etc.), any pharmaceutically or cosmetically active agent, or any film-forming agent known in the profession. For example, a cosmetic makeup composition may include enough film-forming agent and/or colorant to give the eyelashes the desired film and/or color.

Acceptable colorants include pigments, tints, such as oil-soluble dyes, pearlescent pigments, and beading agents.

Representative oil-soluble dyes that can be used in accordance with the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Soybean Oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC 5 orange, annatto and quinoline yellow.

Representative pearlescent pigments include white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or l chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Representative pigments include white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, non-polymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium,

Suitable fibers include, but are not limited to, fibers which improve the elongation effect. By "fiber", we mean an object of length L and diameter D such that L is much larger than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the cross section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L/D ratio (or aspect ratio) is chosen in the range going from 3.5 to 2500, in particular from 5 to 500, and more particularly from 5 to 150. The fibers which can be used in the composition of the invention may be fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, unitary or structured, for example, braided, hollow or solid. They can be of any shape and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and/or polished to avoid injuries. They can be rigid or non-rigid fibers. They can be of synthetic or natural origin, mineral or organic. They can be surface treated or not, coated or not, and colored or not.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free of silicone oils (i.e., contain less than about 0.5% silicone oils) . In another embodiment, the compositions are substantially free of non-volatile oils (i.e., they contain less than about 0.5% non-volatile oils).

Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is a composition which contains so little TEA-stearate that the presence of TEA-stearate does not affect the cosmetic properties of the composition. Preferably, the compositions are substantially free of TEA-stearate (i.e. they contain less than about 0.5% TEA-stearate), free of TEA-stearate (i.e. say they contain less than about 0.25% TEA-stearate) or TEA-stearate free (i.e. they do not contain TEA-stearate).

According to other preferred embodiments, methods of treating, caring for and/or improving the appearance of eyelashes by applying compositions of the present invention to the eyelashes in an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or improve the appearance of eyelashes, are provided. In accordance with these preceding preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are applied topically to the desired area of the eyelashes in an amount sufficient to treat, heal and/or improve the appearance of the keratinous material. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, more preferably once or twice a day, then allowed to dry before subjecting them to contact, for example with clothing or other objects (e.g., a glass or a topcoat). It is preferable to allow the composition to dry for about 1 minute or less, and more preferably for about 45 seconds or less. The composition is preferably applied to the desired area which is dry or which has been dried before application, or to which a base coat has been previously applied.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, compositions having improved cosmetic properties such as, for example, reduced viscosity, improved sebum resistance, improved sweat resistance, improved water resistance, creamier texture, improved texture, improved heat and humidity resistance, improved transfer resistance, improved volumization and/or improved long-wear properties are provided.

Unless otherwise specified, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the specification and claims shall be understood to be modified in all cases by the word "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical parameters presented in the following specification and appended claims are approximations which may vary depending on the desired properties sought to be achieved by the present invention.

Although the numerical ranges and parameters showing the general scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values presented in the specific examples are given as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. Percentages are given on a weight basis.

Examples

US INCI % IN WEIGHT VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS 30 to 50 SILICONE RESIN COMPONENT TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE (and) POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE 5 to 20 PLASTIFIERS POLYBUTENE 1 to 5 RAINCOATS MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX 15 to 25 PARAFFIN (and) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (and) SYNTHETIC WAX COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX VISCOSITY AGENT(S) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 1 to 10 EMULSIFIERS - DISPERSANTS 1 to 8 PIGMENTS 5 to 25 ANTIOXIDANTS/
CONDOMS 1 to 3

Claims (10)

Anhydrous eyelash composition comprising (a) a silicone resin component comprising at least one MQ resin and at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit, and (b) polybutene, wherein the composition is in the form of a mascara. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising (c) at least one soft wax and d) at least one hard wax. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising (e) at least one clay. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising (f) at least one colorant. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising (g) at least one surfactant having an HLB value less than or equal to 8. Composition according to any preceding claim, in which the at least one silicone resin comprising at least one T unit is a polypropylsilsesquioxane. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the plasticizer is present in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 5%. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the silicone resin compound and the plasticizer are present in a weight ratio of 7:1 to 1.5:1. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the hard wax(es) and the soft wax(es) are present in a weight ratio of 10:1 to 1:10. A method of making up eyelashes comprising the application of a composition according to any preceding claim, to eyelashes, in an amount sufficient to make up the eyelashes.