FR3110848A1 - Composition comprising at least three types of polysaccharides, at least one pasty compound of plant origin and water - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising at least three types of polysaccharides, at least one pasty compound of plant origin and water The present application relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - at least three types of polysaccharides (PS): a- A branched homopolysaccharide , such as scleroglucan; b- A linear polysaccharide, preferably a linear heteropolysaccharide, such as a pectin; and c- A branched heteropolysaccharide, such as xanthan gum; - at least one pasty compound of plant origin, and - water. A subject of the present invention is also the use, as a thickening and / or gelling agent in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, of at least three types of specific polysaccharides, to improve the consistency of the composition, in particular its behavior in a pot, while making its grip on the finger lighter and / or less sticky.

Description

Composition comprising at least three types of polysaccharides, at least one pasty compound of vegetable origin and water

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably of the gel-cream or emulsified gel type, comprising at least three types of polysaccharides, at least one pasty compound of vegetable origin and water; as well as its use in the cosmetic field.

A subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to the said keratin material at least least one layer of said cosmetic composition.

A further subject of the invention is the use of said combination of at least three types of polysaccharides to improve the consistency of the composition, in particular in a jar, while making it lighter and/or less sticky to grip with the finger.

For various reasons related in particular to better comfort of use (softness, emollient), current cosmetic compositions comprise an aqueous phase and one or more oils, and are for example in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in- -water (O/W) consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersing discontinuous phase.

These compositions are particularly sought after in cosmetics because they contain an aqueous phase as an external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a cooler, less greasy and lighter feel than E/ H.

Existing formulations of the emulsified gel (O/W) type generally contain non-natural synthetic polymers, such as hydrophilic acrylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers of polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) or acidic acrylic polymers. These polymers make it possible in particular to prepare numerous aqueous compositions, in a wide pH range, the viscosity of which remains stable over time at room temperature or at higher temperatures. They also make it possible to produce aqueous gels that are transparent, homogeneous, non-flowing, non-stringy, soft and slippery when applied and stable when stored.

However, for several years now, the cosmetics market has been marked by a very strong demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin. Consumers want formulations that are free of chemical materials, to which they prefer natural compounds or compounds of natural origin, known for their better tolerance and affinity with the skin, and which are more respectful of the environment.

In particular, consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetic products that do not include synthetic polymers, in particular acrylic, or silicone compounds, such as volatile silicone compounds, and are also targeting cosmetic products that include as little surfactant as possible. .

The formulator must therefore meet the double challenge:

naturalness, with a composition containing as few surfactants as possible, in which synthetic polymer thickeners and silicones are replaced by natural raw materials, or those of natural origin; And

sensoriality, so that the more natural formulas have the same sensory properties as the existing non-natural formulas that they are intended to replace, consumers being in particular accustomed to certain sensory properties and textures, characteristics of silicones and acrylic polymers.

By "natural compound" is meant a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding , refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

By compounds "of natural origin", we mean a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments, generating modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound mainly comprising natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above.

By way of non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatment causing modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference of organic cosmetic products and ecological, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, vol. 120, 9:10.

The replacement of certain synthetic ingredients in a formula, by natural ingredients, can cause problems of change of texture, problems of stability, and can in turn require adaptations on the other ingredients of the formula to be renovated, in order to find the initial texture and sensoriality to which consumers are accustomed for this type of formula.

Increasingly, consumers are looking for innovative formats of cosmetic products, in particular moisturizers, with an original texture, while being easy and pleasant to apply. Products of the natural emulsified gel type are packaged in a tube and do not have a sufficiently "consistent" texture and are too fluid to be packaged in a jar. Natural pot cream formulas have a stiff hold.

It is therefore sought to formulate compositions comprising ingredients compatible with the formulation of "natural" and/or "certified organic" cosmetic products, and which have good cosmetic properties, while being stable, even in the presence of a fairly high rate of water (typically greater than 65%), and in the absence of surfactant.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a composition of the gel-cream type, sufficiently consistent to have good pot life, which has good sensory properties such as the absence of a greasy or sticky sensation during and after application, and provides a light effect on the fingertip and slippery on application.

The present invention also aims to provide a composition, in particular of the gel-cream or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsified gel type, based on the most natural ingredients possible and using the least possible surfactants.

The applicant has now found that the combination of natural thickeners comprising 3 types of polysaccharides, in a formula comprising a fatty phase comprising a pasty fatty compound of vegetable origin and an aqueous phase, makes it possible to obtain an emulsified composition even in l absence of surfactant. The composition obtained, of the gel-cream type, natural and with a characteristic texture, has both:

good pot life or consistency and good pot stability, and

a particularly light, non-sticky finger grip and a slippery, non-greasy application.

This combination of polysaccharides makes it possible to obtain emulsified gels with a texture and grip comparable to emulsified gel formulas containing non-natural synthetic polymers while being in a pot and to effectively stabilize the formula, even without surfactant.

detailed description

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising:

- at least three types of polysaccharides (PS), namely:

a- A branched homopolysaccharide (PSa), such as a scleroglucan;

b- A linear polysaccharide (PSb), preferably a linear heteropolysaccharide, such as a pectin; And

c- A branched heteropolysaccharide (PSc), such as xanthan gum;

- at least one pasty compound of plant origin, and

- some water.

A subject of the present invention is also a non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to the said keratin material at least least one layer of cosmetic composition according to the invention.

A further subject of the present invention is the use, as a thickening and/or gelling agent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, of at least three types of polysaccharides as defined in claims 1 to 10, to improve the consistency of the composition , in particular its pot life, while making it lighter and/or less sticky to grip with the finger.

Thus, it has been demonstrated that each of these 3 types of PS, when combined in a trio, brings real textural and sensory added value to the gel-cream type formula of the invention, in particular that:

- the branched heteropolysaccharide PSc was necessary to obtain the "suspension" of the formula,

- the branched homopolysaccharide PSa was necessary to obtain a particularly smooth and homogeneous texture; And

- the linear polysaccharide PSb was necessary to obtain the non-sticky effect and facilitated the spreading of the gel-cream.

The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The characteristics of the various examples can in particular be combined within variants that are not illustrated.

Throughout this description of the invention, the following definitions are used.

Unless otherwise stated, the contents and percentages are given by weight.

Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the ranges of values which are given in the description of the present invention are included in these ranges.

In what follows or what precedes, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more", i.e. one or two or three or more.

By "keratinous materials" according to the invention is meant the skin of the body, face and/or eye contour, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, scalp and/or hair, or any other skin area of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair, and/or the skin. Preferably, the keratin materials according to the invention are the skin.

By "skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, and preferably, the skin of the face, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face, especially the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, eye contour.

All the compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic compositions. By "cosmetic" is meant a composition compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and the appendages.

“Cosmetic product” means any product as defined in Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of November 30, 2009 relating to cosmetic products.

“Leave-in” cosmetic product means any cosmetic product whose application to the keratin materials to be treated is not followed by rinsing, such as rinsing with water.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a leave-in cosmetic product for treating keratin materials, such as the skin.

Polysaccharides

By polysaccharides within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a polymer consisting of sugar units, having in particular hydrophilic gelling or thickening properties.

By sugar unit is meant within the meaning of the present invention an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

The sugar units can optionally be modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

The sugar units which can enter into the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulphate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

The term "hydrophilic gelling polysaccharide" within the meaning of the present invention means any water-soluble or water-dispersible polysaccharide capable of giving a gelled solution after cold or hot processing.

These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

Generally speaking, polysaccharides can be distinguished into several categories.

Thus, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be homopolysaccharides like fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides like hemicellulose. Similarly, they may be linear polysaccharides like pullulan or branched like gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed like starch.
More particularly, the polysaccharides of branched homopolysaccharide (PSa), linear polysaccharide (PSb), and branched heteropolysaccharide (PSc) type, suitable for the invention can be chosen from starchy or non-starchy polysaccharides, preferably chosen by non-starchy, listed below, and selected from this list according to their hetero/homo, linear/branched character as defined for each of the 3 types of polysaccharides according to the invention.

. Non-starch polysaccharides

According to a variant embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is non-starchy.

In general, the non-starchy polysaccharides can be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and their derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the polysaccharides can be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, acids pectics and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, arabic gums, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and derivatives thereof not ionic, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular the gums of s cleroglucan or xanthan, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulphate and mixtures thereof.

These polysaccharides can be chemically modified, in particular by urea or urethane groups, or by reaction of hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation, alkylation, or by several of these modifications. The derivatives obtained can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Advantageously, the polysaccharides can be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, compounds based on alginate, in particular alginate of sodium, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the compounds of this type, which can be used in the present invention, are chosen from those which are described in particular in “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp 439-458", in "Polymers in Nature, by E. A. Mc GREGOR and C. T. GREENWOOD, Editions John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980", in the work of Robert L. DAVIDSON entitled "Handbook of Water soluble gums and resins" published by Mc Graw Hill Book Company (1980) and in the Industrial Gums "Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Edited by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Edition Academic Press Inc .”.

More specifically, these polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they come from microorganisms, algae or higher plants, and are detailed below.

Polysaccharides produced by microorganisms

Xanthan

Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of β-D-glucoses linked in β(1,4), similar to cellulose. Every second glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a β-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal β-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group bound in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. Charged glucuronic acids and pyruvic acids are ionizable, and therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH equal to 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies depending on the strain of bacteria, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na+, K+ or Ca2+ ions (SATIA Company, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis from an acid solution.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 to 50,000,000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 to 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C with a viscometer Brookfield, type LVT at 60 rpm).

Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries), under the name NOVAXAN™ by ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by CP-Kelco.

Pullulan

Pullulan is a polysaccharide made up of maltotriose units, known as α(1,4)-α(1,6)-glucan. Three glucose units in maltotriose are connected by an α(1,4) glycosidic bond, while consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other by an α(1,6) glycosidic bond. Pullulan is for example produced under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the Hayashibara group in Japan.

Dextran and dextran sulphate

Dextran is a neutral polysaccharide with no charged groups, biologically inert, prepared by fermentation of beet sugar containing only hydroxyl groups. It is possible to obtain from native dextran by hydrolysis and purification, dextran fractions of different molecular weights. The dextran can in particular be in the form of dextran sulphate.

Dextran is represented for example by the products sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, under the name Dextran 40 powder or Dextran 70 powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulphate is marketed by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulphate.

Succinoglycan

Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer produced by bacterial fermentation, of high molecular weight and made up of repeating units of octasaccharides (repetition of 8 sugars). Succinoglycans are for example marketed under the name Rheozan, by the company Rhodia.

Scleroglucan

Scleroglucan is a nonionic branched homopolysaccharide, made up of β-D glucan units. The molecules consist of a main linear chain formed of D-glucose units linked by β(1,3) bonds and of which one out of three is linked to a lateral D-glucose unit by a β(1,6) bond. A more complete description of scleroglucans and their preparation can be found in US 3,301,848.

Scleroglucans used in accordance with the invention, are nonionic polysaccharides preferably corresponding to formula (I):

where the degree of polymerization n varies from 500 to 1600.

According to the invention, scleroglucans of microbial origin are advantageously used, obtained for example by aerobic fermentation of a glucose medium by a fungus of the Sclerotium type and having the structure of a homopolymer of D-glucopyranose.

Examples of scleroglucan gums that can be used in the present invention are, without limitation, the products sold under the name ACTIGUM CS, in particular ACTIGUM CS 11, by the company SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES and under the names AMIGUM and AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL.

gellan gum

Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolysaccharide based on oligoside units composed of 4 oses (tetra-oside). D-glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2:1:1 proportions are present in gellan gum as monomeric elements. It is for example sold under the name KELCOGEL CG LA by the company CP KELCO.

Polysaccharides isolated from algae

galactans

The polysaccharide according to the invention may be a galactan chosen in particular from agar or carrageenans. Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by α(1,3) and ß(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in the 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of ester-sulfate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans which have an ester-sulfate group, iota-carrageenans which have two ester groups -sulfate and lambda-carrageenans which have three ester-sulfate groups.

Carrageenans consist mainly of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts and sulphate esters of polysaccharides. Carrageenans are notably marketed by the company Seppic under the name Solagum, by the company Gelymar under the name Carragel, Carralact, and Carrasol, by the company Cargill, under the names SATIAGEL™ and SATIAGUM™, and by CP-Kelco under the names GENULACTA, GENUGEL and GENUVISCO.

Agar-type galactans are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (Rhodophyceae). They are formed from a polymer group whose basic skeleton is a β(1,3) D-galactopyranose and α(1,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methylated or carboxyethylated groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in varying percentages, depending on the species of algae and the harvesting season. Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular mass, between 40,000 and 300,000 g.mol-1. It is obtained by manufacturing algae extraction juices, generally by autoclaving, and processing these juices, which include approximately 2% agar-agar, in order to extract the latter. Agar is for example produced by the B&V Agar Producers group, under the name Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam. .

Furcellarane

Furcellarane is obtained commercially from the red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. Furcellarane is for example produced by Est-Agar.

Alginate-based compound

By “alginate-based compound” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and alginic acid salts (alginates) or said derivatives. Preferably, the alginate-based compound is water-soluble.

Alginic acid, a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of 2 uronic acids linked by (1,4)glycosidic bonds: β-D-manuronic acid (M) and α-L-glucuronic acid (G). Alginic acid is able to form water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, lithium, lower amine and substituted ammonium cations such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine. These alginates are water-soluble in aqueous medium at pH equal to 4 but dissociate into alginic acid at a pH lower than 4.

This (these) alginate-based compound(s) is (are) capable of crosslinking in the presence of at least one crosslinking agent, by forming ionic bonds between the said compound(s). s) based on alginate and said crosslinking agent(s). The formation of multiple cross-links between several molecules of said alginate-based compound(s) leads to the formation of a water-insoluble gel.

Preferably, alginate-based compounds are used having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 15,000 to 500,000, and better still from 20,000 to 250,000.

According to a preferred embodiment, the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and/or one of its salts. Advantageously, the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, and preferably sodium alginate.

The alginate-based compound can be chemically modified, in particular by urea or urethane groups, or by reaction of hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulphation, phosphating, amination, d amidation, alkylation, or by several of these modifications. The derivatives obtained can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

The alginate-based compounds suitable for the invention can be represented, for example, by the products sold under the names KELCOSOL, SATIALGINE™, CECALGUM™ or ALGOGEL™ by the company Cargill products, under the name Protanal™ by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name GRINDSTED® Alginate by Danisco, under the name KIMICA ALGIN by KIMICA, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by ISP.

Polysaccharides from higher plants

This category of polysaccharides can be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (a single species of ose) and heterogeneous composed of several types of ose.

a) Homogeneous polysaccharides and their derivatives

The polysaccharide according to the invention can be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructans.

Cellulose and derivatives

The polysaccharide according to the invention can also be a cellulose or one of its derivatives, in particular cellulose ethers or esters (eg: methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

The invention may also contain a cellulosic associative polymer. By cellulosic compound, according to the invention is meant any polysaccharide compound having in its structure linear sequences of anhydroglucopyranose (AGU) residues united by β(1,4) glycosidic bonds. The repeat unit is the cellobiose dimer. AGUs are found in a chair conformation and have 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed are associated with each other by intermolecular bonds of the hydrogen bond type, thus conferring a fibrillar structure on the cellulose (approximately 1500 molecules per fiber). The degree of polymerization differs enormously according to the origin of the cellulose; its value can vary from a few hundred to a few tens of thousands.

The hydroxyl groups of cellulose can react partially or totally with different chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives with their own properties. Cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. Among these derivatives, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloses.

The quaternizer may in particular be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. As another cationic cellulose ether, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

- quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

The alkyl radicals carried by the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably designate the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Mention may be made, as examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains, of the products QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company CRODA.

Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of:

- celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, in particular C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company AQUALON, and

- Cellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol ether of alkyl phenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by the company AMERCHOL.

Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates, or cellulose phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or cellulose acetatetrimellitates, etc.) and cellulose esters. mixed organic/inorganic cellulose compounds such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulphates and cellulose acetatepropionatesulphates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulphates.

The cellulosic compounds of the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

Cellulose and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by Akzo Nobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by DOW, under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), BlanoseTM ( carboxymethylcellulose), Culminal® (Methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by Hercules Aqualon.

Fructosans

The polysaccharide according to the invention can in particular be a fructan chosen from inulin and its derivatives (in particular dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulin). Fructans or fructans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units possibly associated with several saccharide residues different from fructose. Fructans can be linear or branched. Fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic. Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000, and preferably from 2 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by β(2,1) bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins. The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by β(2,6) bonds. These products are levans. The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. having sequences β(2,6) and β(2,1). They are essentially branched fructans like gramineans.

The preferred fructans in the compositions according to the invention are inulins. Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichokes, preferably from chicory.

In particular, the polysaccharide, in particular inulin, has a degree of polymerization of 2 to around 1000 and preferably from 2 to around 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a fructose unit.

The inulin used for this invention is represented for example by the products sold under the name Beneo™ inulin by the company Orafti, and under the name Frutafit® by the company Sensus.

b) Heterogeneous polysaccharides and their derivatives

The polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention can be gums such as, for example, cassia, karaya, konjac, tragacanth, tara, acacia or arabic gum.

Gum arabic

Gum arabic is a highly branched, acidic polysaccharide that occurs as mixtures of potassium, magnesium, and calcium salts. The monomeric elements of free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

Galactomannans (guar, carob, fenugreek, tara gum) and derivatives (phosphate guar, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.)

Galactomannans are non-ionic polysaccharides extracted from the albumen of legume seeds for which they constitute the reserve carbohydrate. Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of D-mannopyranose units linked at β(1,4), bearing side branches consisting of a single D-galactopyranose unit linked at α(1,6) to the chain main. The different galactomannans are distinguished on the one hand by the proportion of α-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and on the other hand by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain. The mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is around 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.

guar

Guar gum is characterized by a mannose:galactose ratio of around 2:1. The galactose moiety is evenly distributed along the mannose chain. The guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums can be used.

Unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name the name VISCOGUMTM by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aqualon.

The hydrolyzed non-ionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are, for example, represented by the products sold under the name Meyprodor® by the company Danisco.

The modified non-ionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, among which, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar), by the company Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance ® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company AQUALON.

The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 1.5 meq/g and more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq/g. Charge density can be determined using the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

In general, within the meaning of the present invention, the term “cationic galactomannan gum” means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.

The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular weight of between 500 and 5×106 approximately, and preferably between 103 and 3×106 approximately.

The cationic galactomannan gums which can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising cationic trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups.

Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may very particularly be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, that is to say a guar gum modified for example with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums, modified with cationic groups are products already known per se and are for example described in patents US 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307. Such products are also sold in particular under the trade names of Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

The anionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulphonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group can also be in the form of an acid salt, in particular a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

The anionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention are preferably carboxymethylated guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

Carob

Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua).

The unmodified locust bean gum that can be used in this invention is sold, for example, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin, under the name Grinsted® LBG by the company Danisco. The chemically modified locust bean gums that can be used in this invention can be represented, for example, by the cationic carobs sold under the name Catinal CLB (carob Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Toho.

TARA eraser

The Tara gum that can be used in the context of this invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.

Glucomannans (konjac gum)

Glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide

(500,000 < Mglucomannan < 2,000,000), composed of D-mannose and D-glucose units with branching approximately every 50 or 60 units. It is found in wood but it is also the main constituent of Konjac gum. Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the Araceae family.

The products that can be used according to the invention are, for example, sold under the names Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu.

Pectins, LM and HM Pectins, and derivatives

Pectins are linear polymers of α-D-galacturonic acid linked in position 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group.

About 20% of the sugars making up the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose).

L-rhamnose residues are found in all pectins, integrated into the main chain at positions 1,2.

Uronic acid molecules have carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the ability to exchange ions, when these are in the COO- form. Bivalent ions (calcium in particular) have the ability to form ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.

In nature, a certain proportion of carboxylic groups are esterified by a methanol group. The degree of natural esterification of a pectin can vary between 70% (apple, lemon) and 10% (strawberry) depending on the source used.

From pectins with a high degree of esterification, it is possible to hydrolyze the -COOCH3 groups, in order to obtain pectins with low esterification. During the de-esterification process, there is neither use nor introduction of methanol into the product.

Depending on the proportion of methylated or non-methylated monomers, the chain is therefore more or less acidic and the different gelling functionalities.

HM pectins (highly methoxylated), having a degree of esterification greater than 50%, and LM pectins (low methoxylated), having a degree of esterification less than 50%, are thus defined.

In the case of amidated pectins, the -OCH3 group is substituted by an -NH2 group.

The pectins are in particular marketed by the company Cargill under the name Unipectine™ or Unipectine Of 600 C SB, by the company CP-Kelco under the name GENU, by Danisco under the name GRINSTED Pectin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the pectin is chosen from non-methoxylated or weakly methoxylated pectins, and preferably from non-methoxylated pectins or comprising a degree of methoxylation of less than 50%.

In particular, the pectin is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight of active materials, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight of active materials, better still ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition also comprises sucrose, glucose, maltodextrin or a mixture thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition further comprises sucrose.

According to this embodiment, the pectin is combined with sucrose and the pectin marketed by the company Cargill under the name Unipectin Of 600 C SB (INCI name: pectin (and) sucrose) may advantageously be used.

Other Polysaccharides

Among the other polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chitin (Poly N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, β(1,4)-2-Acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose), chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta-glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitine, etc.) such as those sold by the company France-Chitine; Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulphate, dermatan sulphate, keratan sulphate, and preferably hyaluronic acid; xylans (or arabinoxylans) and derivatives.

Arabinoxylans are polymers of xylose and arabinose, all grouped together under the name “pentosans”.

Xylans consist of a main chain of D-xylose units linked at β(1,4) and on which there are three substituents (Rouau & Thibault, 1987): acid units, α-L- arabinofuranose, side chains may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid.

According to this variant, the polysaccharide is preferably hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts such as the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate).

Advantageously, the content by weight of type a polysaccharide (branched homopolysaccharide PSa) is greater than the content by weight of type b polysaccharide (linear polysaccharide PSb), preferably a linear heteropolysaccharide), itself greater than the content by weight of polysaccharide of type c (branched heteropolysaccharide PSc), on the total weight of the composition, so that their respective contents verify: PSa>PSb>PSc.

Advantageously, the ratio by weight of type a and type c polysaccharides is such that: PSa/PSc is greater than 1, preferably comprised in the range from 1.5 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, preferably from 2.5 to 7, preferably 3 to 6.

Advantageously, the ratio by weight of type b and type c polysaccharides is such that: PSb/PSc is greater than 1, preferably comprised in the range from 1.5 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, preferably from 2 to 7, preferably 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 5, preferably 2 to 4.

Preferably, the type a polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.5 to 2 %, preferably from 0.6 to 2%, better still from 0.7 to 1% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the type b polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.2 % to 2%, preferably from 0.4 to 2%, better still from 0.5 to 1% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the type c polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.2 % to 2%, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5%, better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the branched homopolysaccharide a is chosen from scleroglucans, amylopectins, preferably scleroglucans.

Advantageously, the linear polysaccharide b is chosen from: amylose, cellulose, chitin, agar-agar, curdlan carrageenan, pullulan, hyaluronic acid, alginate, chitosan, glucomannan, gellan gum, pectin; preferably the linear polysaccharide b is chosen from pectins, preferably chosen from non-methoxylated or weakly methoxylated pectins, and preferably from non-methoxylated pectins or comprising a degree of methoxylation of less than 50%.

Advantageously, the branched heteropolysaccharide c is chosen from: xanthan gum, guar gum, polysaccharide derived from tremella (glucuronoxylomannan), galactomannan; preferably the branched heteropolysaccharide c is chosen from xanthan gum.

This particular combination, and according to the contents of the invention, makes it possible to obtain a natural emulsified gel having a light texture while having a sufficient "consistency" to be packaged in a jar, comparable to formulas containing synthetic polymers such as crosslinked or non-crosslinked polyacrylic polymers, or even silicones (see examples below).

The composition of the invention, thanks to the combination of these 3 PS gelling agents, is also combined with a low content of pasty compound to make it possible to obtain a formula of the cream gel type (light grip) but sufficiently consistent to hold in jar.

pasty compound

By "pasty compound" within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

A pasty compound is at a temperature of 23°C, in the form of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is below 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23° C., represents from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23° C. more preferably represents from 25 to 85%, and better still from 30 to 60% by weight of the pasty compound.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23° C. to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 23°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10°C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to change the compound from solid to liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32° C., preferably represents from 40 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, better still from 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32° C., is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32° C. to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.

The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20° C. ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example the TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder of 2mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20° C. in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample, the depth of penetration being 0.3 mm. The hardness reading is that of the maximum peak.

The pasty compound is chosen from compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound may be chosen in particular from isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, orange wax such as , for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), shorea butter, murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil such as, for example, Lipex 203 from Aarhuskarlshamn and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises a pasty compound of vegetable origin according to a content by weight comprised in the range 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 4%, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the pasty compound is chosen from isomerized jojoba oil, orange wax, cupuacu butter, shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, cocoa butter, mango butter , shorea butter, murumuru butter, and mixtures thereof.

Surfactants

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, this may be of the anionic, nonionic or amphoteric type, but it is preferably of the nonionic and/or anionic type, preferably nonionic , and preferably non-silicone.

The quantity of surfactant(s) in active material is such that the two phases form (and remain stable in the form of an emulsion. This quantity must generally be less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than 2%, better still less to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can range, for example, from 0.1 to 3% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of active materials, better still from 0.5 to 1% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1.5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 1% by weight.

Among the nonionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of:

- polyoxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitol such as the product sold under the name TWEEN 20 by the company ICI;

- polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols such as the product sold under the name REMCOPAL 21912 AL by the GERLAND Company;

- polyoxyethylenated alkylphenols such as the product sold under the name TRITON X 100 by the company RÖHM-HAAS;

- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide such as those sold under the names SYNPERONIC PE by the Company ICI and in particular those referenced L 31, L 64, F 38, F 88, L 92, P 103 , F108 and F127;

- esters of fatty acids and of glycerol or of polyglycerol such as for example glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl 3 diisostearate, glyceryl caprylate;

- ethers of polyethylene glycol and/or of polypropylene glycol, and of glycerol such as glycereth-7, glycereth-26, PPG-24 glycereth-24;

- esters resulting from the reaction of a) fatty acids and b) polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol glycerol ethers such as for example glycereth-2 cocoate, glycereth-25 PCA isostearate;

- esters of sucrose and fatty acids different from those defined above, comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters possibly comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as for example sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate;

- alkylpolyglucosides, preferably those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 saccharide units. Mention may be made, for example, of decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9/C11-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 ® by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 UP ® by the company Cognis, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company Seppic; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company Seppic; laurylglucoside, such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N® and PLANTACARE 1200® by the company Cognis; and coco-glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP® by the company Cognis, cetostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by the company Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by the company Seppic and their mixtures;

- polymeric emulsifiers such as hydrophobic modified inulins, for example INUTEC SP1 marketed by the company BENEO BIO BASED CHEMICALS.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-silicone nonionic surfactant chosen from:

- polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, in particular having from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide,

- C8-C30 fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular (C8-C30) alkyl (poly)glucosides.

- polyethylene glycol ethers, having in particular 20 to 120 ethylene oxide units, and C8-C30 fatty acid ester and glucose or methylglucose

- C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan

- C8-C30 fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide

- polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan, having in particular from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide

- mono or di esters of C8-C30 fatty acid and glycerol

- polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, in particular having from 2 to 16 moles of glycerol

- C8-C30 fatty acid esters and polyethylene glycol, having in particular from 2 to 200 units of ethylene oxide,

- C8-C30 fatty acid esters of glucose or (C1-C2)alkylglucose or sucrose,

- and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of:

- alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and their salts, in particular their sodium salts, such as the mixture of Sodium Laureth Sulfate / Magnesium Laureth Sulfate / Sodium Laureth-8 Sulfate / Magnesium Laureth-8 Sulfate, sold under the name Texapon ASV by the Henkel company; sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 EO) marketed under the names SIPON AOS 225 or TEXAPON N702 PATE by the company Henkel, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30 ) (3 EO) marketed under the name SIPON LEA 370 by the company Henkel; ammonium (C12-C14) alkyl ether (9 EO) sulphate marketed under the name RHODAPEX AB/20 by the company Rhodia Chimie;

- alkylsulfoacetates such as that sold under the name LATHANOL LAL by the company STEPAN;

- alkyl sulfosuccinates, for example lauryl alcohol mono-sulfosuccinate (C12/C14 70/30) oxyethylenated (3 EO) marketed under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4 by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated di-sodium oleamidosulfosuccinate (2 EO) marketed under the name STANDAPOL SH 135 by the company Henkel, the oxyethylenated lauryl amide mono-sulfosuccinate (5 EO) marketed under the name LEBON A-5000 by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate mono-sulfosuccinate (10 EO) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50 by the company Witco, the disodium salt of monosulfosuccinate of ricinoleic monoethanolamide marketed under the name REWODERM S 1333 by the company Witco;

- the polypeptides which are obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on cereal amino acids and in particular wheat and oats, such as for example the potassium salt of hydrolyzed wheat protein lauroyl, marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of hydrolyzed cocoyl soy protein, marketed under the name MAY-TEIN SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of oat lauroyl amino acids, marketed under the name PROTEOL OAT by the company Seppic, collagen hydrolyzate grafted on copra fatty acid, marketed under the name GELIDERM 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine, soy proteins acylated with hydrogenated copra acids, marketed under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by Seppic;

- Amino acid derivatives, for example from sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates such as sodium lauroylsarcosinate marketed under the name SARKOSYL NL 97 by the company Ciba or marketed under the name ORAMIX L 30 by the company Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN by the company Nikkol; alaninates such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate marketed under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30 by the company Nikkol or marketed under the name ALANONE ALE by the company Kawaken, and N-lauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine, marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA by Kawaken; N-acylglutamates such as triethanolamine mono-cocoylglutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12 by the company Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl-glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates such as the mixture of N-lauroylaspartate of triethanolamine and N-myristoylaspartate of triethanolamine, marketed under the name ASPARACK LM-TS2 by the company Mitsubishi; glycine derivatives, such as sodium N-cocoylglycinate and potassium N-cocoylglycinate, such as the products marketed under the names AMILITE GCS-12 and AMILITE GCK-12 by the company Ajinomoto;

- sulfonates, for example alpha-olefin sulfonates such as sodium alpha-olefin sulfonate (C14-16) marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 by the company Stepan, marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12 by the company Witco or marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG by the company Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulphonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30 by the company Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulfonates such as sodium xylene sulfonate marketed under the names MANROSOL SXS30, MANROSOL SXS40, MANROSOL SXS93 by the company Manro;

- isethionates, in particular acylisethionates such as sodium cocoyl-isethionate, such as the product marketed under the name JORDAPON CI P by the company Jordan.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of:

- alkylamido alkylamine derivatives such as N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-di-sodium (CTFA name: Disodium cocoampho-diacetate) sold in aqueous saline solution under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC NP by the company Rhodia Chemistry; N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocampho-acetate) and mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: Cocamide DEA);

- betaines, such as for example cocobetaine like the product marketed under the name DEHYTON AB-30 by the company Henkel, laurylbetaine like the product marketed under the name GENAGEN KB by the company Clariant, oxyethylenated laurylbetaine (10 EO), like the product marketed under the name LAURYLETHER(10 OE)BETAINE by the company Shin Nihon Rica, oxyethylenated stearylbetaine (10 EO) such as the product marketed under the name STEARYLETHER(10 OE)BETAINE by the company Shin Nihon Rica;

- alkylamidopropyl betaines and their derivatives such as for example cocamidopropyl betaine marketed under the name LEBON 2000 HG by the company Sanyo, or marketed under the name EMPIGEN BB by the company Albright & Wilson, lauramidopropyl betaine marketed under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P by the company Witcotels as cocamidopropyl betaine such as the products sold under the names TEGO BETAINE by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;

- imidazoline derivatives such as the product sold under the name CHIMEXANE HD by the company CHIMEX.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises a non-ionic non-silicone surfactant having an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably of 9.0 to 13.5, and preferably of 10.0 to 13.0 .

Advantageously, the non-ionic non-silicone surfactant is present in a content comprised in the range from 0.1 to 3% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0. 5 to 1.5% by weight of active materials, better still from 0.5 to 1% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oils

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one oil.

Oils are understood to mean fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example:

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as squalane, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, oils of jojoba, babassu , sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, corn, soy, squash, grapeseed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia , arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those marketed by the company Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, the shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of acids and/or fatty alcohols, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1CO represents the residue of a fatty acid or R1 represents the residue of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin's oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl-malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetraisostearate; - their mixtures.

We can also mention the following oils:

- esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, and better from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even better from 6 to 16 carbon atoms carbon and at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate such as those marketed under the name PALMESTER 1510 by the company KLK OLEO, under the name LEXOL IPM-NF by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY or even under the name ISOPROPYLMYRISTATE by the company COGNIS ( BASF), isopropyl isostearate such as that marketed under the name RADIA 7739 by the company OLEON, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl2-hexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, carbonate dicaprylyl such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS,

- fatty alcohol ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 12, and even more preferably from 8 to 10.

These ethers can be obtained from two different fatty alcohols or from two identical fatty alcohols. Preferably, they are obtained from two identical fatty acids such as caprylic alcohol (also called octan-1-ol or n-octanol). The corresponding ether is then dicaprylyl ether such as that marketed under the name Cetiol OE by the company Cognis.

- glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms such as 2-ethyl hexyl ether of glycerol (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH.

Mention may in particular be made of the mixture of caprylic/capric acid esters and C12-C18 fatty alcohols such as coco-caprylate/caprate marketed under the name CETIOL LC by the company COGNIS or under the name DUB 810 C by STEARINERIE DUBOIS.

- volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of vegetable origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

As examples of volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in the patent application of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371.

By way of example of a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12) , n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16) and n-heptadecane (C17) and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred form, a mixture of undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13) will be used, such as the product sold under the reference CETIOL UT by the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) such as those sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.

- the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as for example the polyesters of dilinoleic acid and diol marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast and in particular the polymer bearing the INCI name dilinoleic acid/ propanediol copolymer; and their mixtures.

It is also possible to use Guerbet alcohols or Guerbet alcohol derivatives such as, for example, Guerbet alcohol esters. Guerbet alcohols are obtained by converting an aliphatic primary alcohol into a beta-alkylenated alcohol dimer via the following chemical reaction:

This reaction requires the presence of a catalyst such as alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alkoxides such as Raney Nickel, and high temperatures.

As Guerbet alcohols or Guerbet alcohol derivatives, mention may in particular be made of octyldodecanol and octyldodecanol esters such as octyldodecyl myristate. Mention may in particular be made of octydodecanol such as that marketed under the name EUTANOL G by the company COGNIS (BASF) and octyldodecyl myristate marketed under the name DUB MOD by the company GATTEFOSSE.

The composition according to the invention may have a total oil content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the fatty phase of the composition comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and fatty acid esters and Guerbet alcohol, and linear alkanes.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises from 1 to 30% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably alcohols from Guerbet and the fatty acid and alcohol esters from Guerbet, and the linear alkanes.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises from 1 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides , and Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and fatty acid esters and Guerbet alcohol, and optionally from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight of at least one oil chosen from linear alkanes.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention contains less than 5%, preferably less than 4%, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% , preferably less than 0.1%, by weight of acrylic polymers and/or silicones, preferably it does not contain acrylic polymers and/or silicones.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises at least 65% by weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 65% water, preferably at least 68% water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion, and preferably is of the gel-cream type.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from: anti-wrinkle agents, UV filters, vitamins, in particular B3, B8, B12 and B9, moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, agents improving the barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidant agents, dermo-contracting agents or dermorelaxing agents, antiglycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation fibroblasts or keratinocytes and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, NO-synthases inhibitors, antagonists of peripheral benzodiazepine receptors (PBR), agents increasing the activity of sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells and soothing agents.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from urea and its derivatives; proxylan; ceramides; amino acids, vitamins and pro-vitamins, antioxidant compounds, such as baicalin, polydatin, mangiferin, skin lightening agents, such as tyrosine kinase inhibitors; retinol and its derivatives.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of at least 5UD M3, preferably comprised in the range of 5UD M3 to 200UD M3, preferably from 15 to 150UD M3, preferably from 20 to 150UD M3.

The viscosity is measured with the Rheomat at 25° C., using a RHEOMAT RM 200 viscometer fitted with a spindle No. 3 (M3), the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the product ( time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and of the speed of rotation of the mobile is observed), at a shear of 200 s-1. We obtain a measurement in UD (Unit of Deviation), according to the measurement protocol detailed below.

The viscosity of the composition according to the invention is preferably greater than 15 UDM3, in particular greater than 20 UDM3, preferably greater than 40 UDM3, which allows the formula to have a texture of sufficient consistency for its presentation in a pot.

The composition according to the invention is not limited to the embodiments which have just been described.

Protocol for measuring the parameters cited and measured in this description of the invention:

Rheomat viscosity measurement protocol with Mobile 3:

The following equipment is used: Thermostatic bath; Rheomat 200 viscometer; and MS-r 3 measuring system (body, support and bucket).

The measurement is carried out with a set: product to be analyzed - bucket - measuring body. This assembly is at the set temperature of 25°C.

A zero adjustment is made on the Rheomat.

Filling of the cup: The volume of substance introduced into the cup of mobile 3 is up to the overflow, ie 25 ml.

Measurement: the system support and the selected measuring body are placed on the device, then the measuring cup is adapted, and finally the device is started with the following programming: rotation speed of the mobile at 200 rpm ; measurement system: 75.

After 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body, the measurement result is read: A formula is said to be gelled if and only if, in the protocol described, it has a viscosity greater than or equal to 5UD M3.

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention, without limiting it.

Examples

The amounts are given in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Formula manufacturing protocol:

For the examples according to the invention (heating required):

STAGES COMPONENTS A (A1 + A2) WATER CONSERVATIVES SEQUESTRANT PH ADJUSTER SALT DYE SOLVENT GLYCOLS B FAT BODY
SURFACTANT VS WATER D GELLING AGENTS F CHARGE G ALCOHOL

Process :

add A1 0.1% aloe extract in 19.9% water and mix in the main tank until a homogeneous mixture is obtained at 25-30°C

: add the components of phase A2 (aqueous phase) and B (fatty phase) to A1 then heat everything to 75°C and mix until a homogeneous emulsion (fluid) is obtained

: cool by adding the water from phase C and mix until a homogeneous mixture is obtained

: at 40-45°C, introduce the gelling agents (polysaccharides) (phase D) and disperse (vigorous stirring) until a homogeneous medium without grains is obtained

: at T<40°C, add the components of phase E (thermosensitive MPs = active ingredients, perfume)

: add F (filler) while cooling and mixing until a homogeneous grain-free mixture is obtained

: at ambient temperature (25-30°C), add phase G (alcohol) and homogenize

For the formulas of the comparisons Cp1 and Cp2 below, the same process is used but “cold”:

STAGES COMPONENTS AT WATER CONSERVATIVES SEQUESTRANT DYE GLYCOLS B GELLING AGENTS VS FAT BODY
PERFUME INGREDIENTS D PH ADJUSTER E ALCOHOL

(1): add A (aqueous phase) mix in the main tank until a homogeneous mixture is obtained at 25-30°C

(2): add B (gelling agents) at 25-30°C and disperse (vigorous stirring) until a homogeneous grain-free medium is obtained

(3): add the components of phase C (Fat body, fragrance)

(4): add phase D (pH adjuster) and homogenize

(5): add the alcohol (E) and homogenize

Comparison of formulas according to the invention (Ex1 to Ex6) and outside the invention (Cp1 and Cp2)

In Table 3 below, the fatty phases, thickeners and surfactants are compared for the formulas according to the invention (Ex1 to Ex6) and outside the invention (Cp1 and Cp2).

The Cp1 formula (outside the invention) is an emulsified gel with AMPS (synthetic polymer) and with 8% fatty phase composed of silicones, synthetic fatty substances (not natural).

The Cp2 formula (outside the invention) replaces the silicones in the fatty phase with natural fatty substances (substitution of 8% silicone fatty phase with 2% shea butter and 6% coconut caprylate/caprate). The Cp2 formula still contains AMPS.

The formulas of examples Ex1 to Ex6 according to the invention do not contain AMPS synthetic polymer, but a combination of 3 polysaccharides. These formulas Ex1 to Ex6 according to the invention essentially contain ingredients of natural origin. Different non-silicone nonionic surfactants are compared.

INCI Cp1 Cp2 Ex1 Ex2 Ex3 Ex4 Ex5 Ex6 DIMETHICONE 3, DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL 1, CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE (and) ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 4, COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE 6, 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 1.5 1.5 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 PECTIN 0.75
(0.6MA) 0.75
(0.6MA) 0.75
(0.6MA) 0.75
(0.6MA) 0.75
(0.6MA) 0.75
(0.6MA) XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 1, 1.5 0.5 1, CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 1, MYRISTYL ALCOHOL (and) MYRISTYL GLUCOSIDE 1, ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 1, AQUA 75.48 71.68 71.38 70.88 71.38 71.38 70.88 71.38 GLYCERIN 10, 10, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, PROPANEDIOL 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, ALCOHOL DENAT. 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.5 0.3 BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.99 0.99 0.99 0.99 0.99 0.99 0.99 0.99 TOCOPHEROL 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE POWDER 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 CITRIC ACID 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 TALC 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.75 CALCIUM CARBONATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Viscosity (25°C, M3, +/-5 ud) > 40 > 40 > 40 > 40 > 40 > 40 > 40 > 40

Viscosity

It is measured at 25° C. on a Rheomat, according to the protocol described above. Several mobiles can be used depending on the viscosity of the juice. Choose the appropriate mobile (value between 15 and 85 UD, otherwise change mobile M1: lotion, M2: milk, fluid, M3: cream, thick milk, M4: thick cream). Measurements in UD: unit of deviation, with a standard deviation ± 5 UD. The result is expressed as an integer in Table 3.

The compositions obtained above all have a viscosity greater than 40 ud.

They come in the form of a product with a consistency thick enough for presentation in a jar. The gel-cream is smooth, shiny and opaque.

The formulas are also stable: they show no change in viscosity or pH, or change in appearance under the microscope, or change in these parameters in accelerated stability after 2 months at 45°C.

Sensory analysis

A sensory analysis made it possible to characterize the consistency of the product, the flexibility and the grip under the finger.

A panel of 15 experts trained in the description of skincare products evaluates the formula monadically. The products are packaged in standard transparent jars of 15 ml and coded. During the same session, samples are presented in random order for each judge. Experts have skin that tends to be oily to dry. 30 descriptors are evaluated in 6 sequences: appearance of the product in the jar, pick up, application by hand, application on the face and 2 minutes after application

The formulas are evaluated on a rating system on a scale of 0 to 15 (0 corresponding to weak and 15 to strong) before application (visual aspect, product setting), during application on different areas and after application. application (skin finish):

Stage Descriptor Cp1 Cp2 Ex1 X: Improved properties
Ex1 vs. Cp1 / Comments Visual aspect) bright 12.5 13.5 13.2 identical smooth 11.5 13.8 11 identical transparent 0 0 0 identical fluidity 0.2 0.7 0.5 X Not too fluid for sufficient pot life trembling 5.7 3.5 4.2 slightly less wobbly, but gelled enough for potting

Potted

sticky under the fingers 7.7 8 5 X less sticky under the fingers quantity taken 1.5 1.5 2.8 X improved or better grip consistency 6.8 6 5 X lighter consistency keeps its shape 7.5 5.5 2.5 X the shape melts when taken thick 7 6.2 5 X finer grip Application on the hand white film 0 0 0 identical lathers 0 0 0 identical


Forearm application


bold 7 5 5 X less fat slippery on 1st move (turn) 12 X more slippery sliding on the 5th movement (turn) 10.3 11.5 12.4 X more slippery sliding on the 10th movement (turn) 12.2 X more slippery sliding in the 15th movement (turn 12 X more slippery sliding on the 20th movement (turn) 11.9 X more slippery sliding on the 25th movement (turn) 9.5 11 11.7 X more slippery Application on the face fresh effect 8.5 8.5 9 identical penetration rate 7.5 8.5 7.8 identical greasy effect on the fingers 5.8 3.5 2.5 X less greasy effect on the fingers immediate sticky effect on skin 6.5 6.8 7 identical Visual result (on skin) after 2 min of application shiny skin 5 4 3 X less shiny skin White skin 0 0 0 identical sticky skin 3 3 3 identical slippery skin 11.2 9.5 6 X skin finish less slippery more natural less set film-forming effect on skin 1.5 1.5 1.5 identical

Ultimately, the composition of the invention (here Ex1) mimics textural and sensory characteristics typically obtained for formulas based on silicones and acrylic polymers (AMPS polymers), and has sensory properties that are at least equivalent, or even better. , as demonstrated by the sensory test provided in the examples above.

Comparison of different polysaccharide contents, without surfactant (Ex7 to Ex10) or with (Ex11)

Evaluation of consistency (viscosity): see table 5 below

US INCI Ex7 Ex8 Ex9 Ex10 Ex11 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 PECTIN 0.5
(0.4MA) 0.75
(0.6MA) XANTHAN GUM 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 CELLULOSE GUM 1.5 1 1.5 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 0.5 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 2 2 2 2 2 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE 6 6 6 6 6 WATER 71.16 70.88 67.32 68.82 66.82 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 10 10 PROPANEDIOL 4 4 4 4 4 ALCOHOL DENAT. 3 3 3 3 3 BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 TOCOPHEROL 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE POWDER 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 CENTAUREA CYANUS FLOWER WATER 1 1 1 1 1 CALCIUM CARBONATE 0.11 0.1 SODIUM CHLORIDE 3 2 3 CITRIC ACID 0.05 0.09 0 0 0 Viscosity
(25°C, M3, +/-5 ud) >15 >20 >15 >15 >15 Jar consistency: Limit texture for pot life texture consistent
" freeze " Limit texture for pot life Limit texture for pot life Limit texture for pot life

The compositions of Examples 7 to 10 do not contain TA. The compositions of examples 9 to 11 do not contain pectin, the latter being replaced by cellulose.

The viscosities obtained are greater than 15 UD, or even greater than 20 DU in the case of example 8 which contains 0.6% of pectin by weight of active ingredient, on the total weight of the composition.

The formulas of examples Ex7 to Ex11 are in the form of a product with a consistency thick enough for presentation in a jar. The gel-cream is smooth, shiny and opaque.

The formulas are also stable: they show no change in viscosity or pH, or change in appearance under the microscope, or change in these parameters in accelerated stability after 2 months at 45°C.

The combination of 3 types of particular polysaccharides, in particular scleroglucan, pectin and xanthan, in a formula comprising at least 65% aqueous phase, combined with a natural fatty phase containing a pasty compound of plant origin, such as shea butter , without surfactant, or with a very low content (0.5%) of non-silicone nonionic surfactant, typically citric ester of glycerol stearate, made it possible to obtain a gel-cream type composition combining naturalness, consistency of pot and lightness to the finger grip and sensory slippery and non-oily when applied to the skin.

In particular, the combination according to the invention of 3 types of polysaccharides, in particular scleroglucan, pectin and xanthan, gives an O/W emulsion of the gel-cream type with a cool and slippery feel on application, and makes it possible to obtain 'a quick break effect very difficult to obtain until now from natural ingredients, with a soft finish on the skin.

Claims (23)

Cosmetic composition comprising

• at least three types of polysaccharides (PS):

a- A branched homopolysaccharide (PSa), such as a scleroglucan;
b- A linear polysaccharide (PSb), preferably a linear heteropolysaccharide, such as a pectin; And
c- A branched heteropolysaccharide (PSc), such as xanthan gum;

• at least one pasty compound of vegetable origin, and
• some water.

Composition according to Claim 1, in which the content by weight of type a polysaccharide is greater than the content by weight of type b polysaccharide, itself greater than the content by weight of type c polysaccharide, on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to either of Claims 1 and 2, in which the ratio by weight of type a and type c polysaccharides is such that: PSa/PSc is greater than 1, preferably comprised in the range from 1.5 to 10, preferably 2 to 8, preferably 2.5 to 7, preferably 3 to 6. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the ratio by weight of the polysaccharides of type b and of type c is such that: PSb/PSc is greater than 1, preferably comprised in the range from 1.5 to 10, preferably 2 to 8, preferably 2 to 7, preferably 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 5, preferably 2 to 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the type a polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.5 to 2%, preferably from 0.6 to 2%, better still from 0.7 to 1% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the type b polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.2% to 2%, preferably from 0.4 to 2%, better still from 0.5 to 1% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the type c polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.2% to 2%, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5%, better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched homopolysaccharide a is chosen from scleroglucans, amylopectins, preferably scleroglucans. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the linear polysaccharide b is chosen from: amylose, cellulose, chitin, agar-agar, curdlan carrageenan, pullulan, hyaluronic acid, alginate, chitosan, glucomannan, gellan gum, pectin; preferably the linear polysaccharide b is chosen from pectins, preferably chosen from non-methoxylated or weakly methoxylated pectins, and preferably from non-methoxylated pectins or comprising a degree of methoxylation of less than 50%. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched heteropolysaccharide c is chosen from: xanthan gum, guar gum, polysaccharide from tremella (glucuronoxylomannan), galactomannan; preferably the branched heteropolysaccharide c is chosen from xanthan gum. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises a non-ionic non-silicone surfactant having an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably of 9.0 to 13.5, and preferably from 10.0 to 13.0. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-silicone nonionic surfactant is chosen from:
- polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, having in particular from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide,
- C8-C30 fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular (C8-C30) alkyl (poly)glucosides.
- ethers of polyethylene glycol, having in particular from 20 to 120 ethylene oxide units, and C8-C30 fatty acid ester and glucose or methylglucose
- C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan
- C8-C30 fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide
- polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan, having in particular from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide
- mono or di esters of C8-C30 fatty acid and glycerol
- polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, in particular having from 2 to 16 moles of glycerol
- C8-C30 fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, having in particular from 2 to 200 units of ethylene oxide,
- C8-C30 fatty acid esters of glucose or (C1-C2)alkylglucose or sucrose,
- and mixtures thereof. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the nonionic nonsilicone surfactant is present in a content comprised in the range from 0.1 to 3% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight of active materials, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of active materials, better still from 0.5 to 1% by weight of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a pasty compound of vegetable origin according to a content by weight comprised in the range 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 4%, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound or compounds are lipophilic fatty compounds with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound comprises a liquid fraction, measured at 23°C, representing from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound is chosen from isomerized jojoba oil, orange wax, cupuacu butter, shea butter, olive oil partially hydrogenated butter, cocoa butter, mango butter, shorea butter, murumuru butter, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, in which the fatty phase comprises at least one oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives such as alcohols of Guerbet and the fatty acid and alcohol esters of Guerbet, and the linear alkanes. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains less than 5%, preferably less than 4%, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, by weight of acrylic polymers and/or silicones, preferably it does not contain acrylic polymers and/or silicones. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 65% by weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 65% water, preferably at least 68% water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an O/W emulsion, and is preferably of the gel-cream type. Use as a thickening and/or gelling agent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition of at least three types of polysaccharides as defined in claims 1 to 10, to improve the consistency of the composition, in particular in a pot, while making it lighter and/or less sticky its grip on the finger. Non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to the said keratin material at least one layer of cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 21.