FR3110844A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF UNSATURATED DIOIC ACID AND ITS USES - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one unsaturated dioic acid, a UV filter system and C12 alkyl benzoate. -C15. The present invention also relates to the uses of the cosmetic composition as a daily product of the sunscreen type, a product for lightening the skin, a product for preventing and / or treating unwanted skin pigmentation or a product for preventing and / or treating acne. . Figure for abstract: 1

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING UNSATURATED DIOIC ACID AND USES THEREOF

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one unsaturated dioic acid, a system of UV screening agents and C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate. The present invention also relates to the uses of the cosmetic composition as a daily product of the sunscreen type, product for lightening the skin, product for preventing and/or treating undesirable skin pigmentation or product for preventing and/or treating acne .

CONTEXT OF INVENTION

A wide variety of organic acids are currently used to treat various skin conditions. Cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions containing acids are known in the art. They help renew skin cells for younger, fresher, healthier looking skin. Unsaturated dioic acids are typically known for their antioxidant and lightening effect and are usually applied to the skin to prevent skin aging and treat acne and any unwanted skin pigmentation. These acids are very important because of their biological effects on the skin.

However, formulating aqueous compositions, in particular emulsions, containing said unsaturated dioic acids is a challenge because they are poorly water-soluble, which hinders their incorporation into the composition. When unsaturated dioic acids are not well incorporated into the composition, they become unstable and spontaneously crystallize over time. During crystallization, their availability in the composition is reduced, which consequently decreases their cosmetic performance. Depending on the intensity of the formation of the crystals and the size of the latter, the sensory properties of the composition are also affected because it can become grainy and unpleasant when applied to the skin.

The difficulty in solubilizing unsaturated dioic acids is greater when adding UV filters to the composition since the acid and the filters must all be incorporated in a stable manner in the composition while preserving their cosmetic performance in the final product.

It is therefore necessary to optimize the solubility of unsaturated dioic acids and UV filters in order to obtain a long-term stable composition, in which one ingredient does not inhibit the cosmetic performance of others.

Taking into account the current needs of the state of the art and the difficulties in meeting them, the inventors have developed a cosmetic composition comprising at least one unsaturated dioic acid, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, a UV filters and water. Surprisingly, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention showed long-term stability without the formation of crystals of unsaturated dioic acid over time. The composition further displays a satisfactory sun protection factor while preserving the performance of the unsaturated dioic acid and exhibiting no interference between UV filters and the unsaturated dioic acid.

The inventors have thus succeeded in overcoming the problems of the state of the art and surprisingly revealed a cosmetic composition having the aforementioned technical advantages.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (a) at least one unsaturated dioic acid, (b) C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, (c) a UV screening system and (d) water. The present invention also relates to the uses of the cosmetic composition.

There shows microscopic images taken for a composition according to Example 2 of the present invention after manufacture (T0) and 5 months after manufacture and storage at room temperature (T5M).

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

1. about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one unsaturated dioic acid;
2. about 5% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate;
3. a system of UV filters; And
4. some water.

The amount of the at least one unsaturated dioic acid in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The at least one unsaturated dioic acid is advantageously selected from the group consisting of unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ dioic acids and it is preferably 9-octadecenedioic acid (INCI name: octadecenedioic acid).

The amount of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate in the cosmetic composition is from about 5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of UV screening system in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.1% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The system of UV filters according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one UV filter selected from the group consisting of organic UV filters. The at least one UV filter of the UV filter system is preferably selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane and terephthalylidene dimphor sulfonic acid.

The total amount of water in the composition according to the present invention is preferably in the range of about 0.1% to about 90% by weight, preferably about 1% to about 80% by weight, so more preferably about 10% to about 70% by weight, even more preferably about 10% to about 60% by weight, and more preferably about 20% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also comprise at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of surfactants, vitamins, preservatives, polymers, silicones, fatty compounds, fillers, additional solvents (other than C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate and water), additional active compounds and mixtures thereof.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention exhibits an SPF of about 30, about 50, about 60, about 70, about 90, or about 100.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion and can be used as a daily product for the skin.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic composition to manufacture a product intended to protect the skin from UV radiation and to prevent sunburn, which can be used as an everyday product of the type Sun screen. The cosmetic composition of the present invention can also be used to manufacture a product intended to lighten the skin, to prevent and/or treat undesirable skin pigmentation or to prevent and/or treat acne.

TERMS

As used herein, the term "at least" refers to one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations thereof.

Except in the functional examples or unless otherwise stated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or processing conditions shall be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", which means within a range ± 5% of the indicated number.

As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range, and a combination of sub-ranges in between, within the given ranges. A range of 1 to 5 therefore specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 as well as the subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. All ranges and values described herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein included in a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to infer a sub-range, etc.

UNSATURATED DIOIC ACID

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one unsaturated dioic acid (unsaturated dicarboxylic acid). The terms "unsaturated dioic acid" refer to an organic compound containing two carboxyl (-COOH) functional groups and at least one pi (π) bond connecting two carbon atoms.

The advantageous unsaturated dioic acids according to the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ dioic acids and they are preferably selected from unbranched unsaturated dioic acids. In a more preferred embodiment, the at least one unsaturated dioic acid according to the present invention is 9-octadecenedioic acid (INCI name: octadecenedioic acid).

Preferably, the amount of the at least one unsaturated dioic acid in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, based on the total weight of the composition.

C-ALKYL BENZOATE ₁₂ -VS ₁₅

C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate is an ester of benzoic acid and C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohols. This ingredient functions mainly in cosmetic compositions as an emollient and as a solvent. In the present invention, the C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate is responsible for the effective solubilization of the unsaturated dioic acid and its stability over time.

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the at least one unsaturated dioic acid in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is from about 5% to about 30% by weight, more preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight, more preferably from about 5% by weight to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

UV FILTER SYSTEM

The composition according to the invention comprises a system of UV filters. The system of UV filters can comprise at least one UV filter selected from the group of organic UV filters.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the UV screening system in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 40% by weight, and in certain embodiments from approximately 1% by weight to approximately 40% by weight, and in some embodiments from about 5 wt% to about 30 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Organic UV filters

The composition according to the present invention comprises a system of UV filters comprising at least one organic UV filter. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.

The organic UV filters used for the present invention can be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region. Organic UV filters can be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic. Organic UV filters can be solid or liquid. The terms "solids" and "liquids" mean solids and liquids, respectively at 25°C at 1 atm.

The organic UV screening agent can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and its derivatives; rutin and its derivatives; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and its derivatives; quinic acid and its derivatives; phenols, retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, by way of examples of organic UV filter(s), of those indicated below under their INCI name, and mixtures thereof. Anthranilic compounds: methyl anthranilates, such as those marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, as marketed in particular under the brand name “Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, as marketed in particular under the brand name “Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, as marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. Salicylic Compounds: Homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), as sold under the trade name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, as sold under the brand name “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, as sold under the trade name "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylate, as sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer. Camphor compounds, in particular benzylidene-camphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene-camphor, as marketed under the brand name “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, as marketed under the brand name “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene-camphor-sulfonic acid, as manufactured under the trade name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor-benzalkonium methosulfate, as manufactured under the trade name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicaphrus sulfonic acid, as manufactured under the trade name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene-camphor, as manufactured under the trade name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex. Benzophenone compounds: benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as that sold under the trade name "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), as marketed under the brand name "Uvinul D50" by BASF; benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, as sold under the brand name "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophenone sulphonic acid), such as marketed under the brand name “Uvinul MS40” by BASF; benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); as marketed under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, as sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), as marketed under the brand name “Uvinul DS-49” by BASF; and benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (such as UVINUL A+ from BASF). Compounds of β,β-diphenylacrylate: octocrylene, as marketed in particular under the brand name “Uvinul N539” by BASF; and etocrylene, as marketed in particular under the brand name “Uvinul N35” by BASF. Triazine compounds: diethylhexyl butamido triazone, as marketed under the brand name “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, as marketed under the brand name "TINOSORB S" by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone, such marketed under the brand name "UVINUL T150" by BASF. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylphenol, linear or branched; and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, as marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann- The rock. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid, as sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, as sold under the trade name " Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer. Imidazoline compounds: ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bisbenzoazolyl compounds: derivatives as described in EP 669,323 and U.S. Patent No. 2,463,264. Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA , pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, as sold in particular under the brand name "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, such as that sold under the brand name " Uvinul P25” by BASF. Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], as marketed in solid form under the brand name "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(I,I,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], as marketed in micronized form in an aqueous dispersion under the trade name "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the trade name "Mixxim BB/100" by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166 355, GB-2,303,549; DE-197 26 184 and EP-893 119, and drometrizole trisiloxane, as marketed under the brand name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or "Mexoryl XL" by L'Oréal. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, such as marketed under the brand name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. Screening polymers and screening silicones: the silicones described in WO 93/04665. Dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene: the dimers described in DE-19855649. 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds: I,I-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

In some embodiments, it is desirable that the organic UV filter(s) can be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene , phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, I,r-(I,4-piperazinediyl)bis[I-[2 -[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl-]-methanone 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4, 6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)- 6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine , 2,4,6-tris- (ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, I,I-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4 -bis[5-I(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-I,3,5-triazine, camphor-benzalkonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof- this.

In a more preferred embodiment, the at least one UV filter of the UV filter system is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, terephthalylidene acid sulphonic dicamphrum and mixtures thereof.

ADDITIONAL COMPOUNDS

In addition to the essential components described above, the composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound which is any usually cosmetically acceptable compound, which may be chosen in particular from surfactants, vitamins, preservatives, polymers, silicones, fatty compounds, fillers, additional solvents (other than C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate and water), additional active compounds and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “additional compounds”, “additional solvent” and “additional active compounds” do not respectively include the compounds, solvents and active compounds mentioned above.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional compounds and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the addition envisaged.

The surfactants useful for the present invention are preferably selected from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, mixtures of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyalkylenated) glycerol fatty acid esters; polyoxylene fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty acid esters (polyethylene glycol esters and fatty acids); oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for example sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APG) such as decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally in the form of a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol and also glucoside arachidyl alcohol, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Mention may also be made of lecithins and their derivatives (for example, Biophilic), sugar esters and sodium stearoyl lactylate.

Glycerol alkyl esters include glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof. As polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mention may be made of monesters, diesters or triesters of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (monester, diester or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably the polyoxyethylene glyceryl stearate (monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate).

The fatty acid polyglycerol esters can be selected from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol having from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units and from at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids can be selected from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polyglycerol esters of fatty acids are selected from the esters derived from the polyglycerol reaction comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units and from at least one fatty acid having less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, for example 8 to 16 carbon atoms and more preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid polyglycerol ester is selected from polyglycerol esters derived from the reaction comprising from 4 to 10 glycerol units and from at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and/or capric acid. Mention may be made, for example, of the ester resulting from the reaction of polyglyceryl-10 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 10 glycerol units) and lauric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-10 laurate) such as that marketed by the company Dr Straetmans under the reference DERMOFEEL G 10 L, the ester resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol-4 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and capric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) such as that marketed by Evonik under the reference Tegosoft PC 41.

Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters which may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, particularly those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of nonionic surfactants for use in the surfactant system of the present invention include polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of the following structure:

H-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _a -(O-CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ ) _b -(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _a' -OH,

where a, a' range from 2 to 150 and b range from 1 to 100.

In the chemical structure described above, a and a' preferably range from 10 to 130 and b range from 20 to 80, more preferably a and a' range from 50 to 130 and b range from 30 to 80 and more preferably , a and a' range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80. According to a particular embodiment, a and a' are identical.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19,000, better still ranging from 1,200 to 15,000, ranging especially from 1500 to 10,000 and even better ranging from 1500 to 5000.

Advantageously, the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a cloud point, at 10 g/l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20° C. and preferably greater than or equal to 60°C. Cloud point is measured according to ISO 1065.

Mention may be made, as products of polycondensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide which can be used according to the invention, of the products of triblock polycondensates polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol marketed under the name Synperonic, for example Synperonic ^® PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic ^® PE/F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), Synperonic ^® PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), Synperonic ^® PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122 ), Synperonic ^® PE/F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), Synperonic ^® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic ^® PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), Synperonic ^® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), ^Synperonic® PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) by the company Croda, or ^Lutrol® F68 (INCI name: Poloxamer 188) by the company BASF.

Useful nonionic surfactants are selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, Poloxamer 338 and mixtures thereof.

The non-restrictive anionic surfactant(s) which may be used in the present invention is/are also selected from the group comprising alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, sulfonates, such as alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates , acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulphosuccinamates, N-acyl N-methyltaurates, N-acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, mixed esters of organic acids with glycerol, such as glyceryl stearate citrate and glyceryl stearate lactate, uronic acid salts of D-galactoside, acid salts alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group designating a phenyl group. Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The anionic surfactant can also be selected in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin or silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulfosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, sulfates of alkyl, alkyl ether sulfates, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulfoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides and mixtures thereof.

1) Anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin are protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, with the possibility for said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reaction of the protein and/or the protein hydrolyzate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of vegetable origin or derived from silk and the hydrophobic group can in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned more particularly, as anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin, hydrolysates of apple, wheat, soy or oat proteins comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and their salts. The alkyl chain can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salt.

2) As phosphates and alkyl phosphates, mention may for example be made of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates such as lauryl monophosphate, such as the product marketed under the name ^MAP20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphate, the mixture of monoester and diester (mostly diester), for example marketed under the name Crafol AP- ^31® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of octyl phosphate, such as the product marketed under the name of Crafol AP-20 ^® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of ethoxylated 2-butyloctyl phosphate (7 moles of EO), such as the product marketed under the name of Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester ^® by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono(C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ alkyl)phosphate, such as the products marketed under the references Arlatone MAP230K-40 ^® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60 ^® by Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate, such as the marketed product s or the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09R) by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate, for example, marketed under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema.

3) As carboxylates, mention may be made of:

amido ether carboxylates (AEC), such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO), for example, sold under the name Akypo Foam ^30® by Kao Chemicals;

salts of polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acids, such as sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-C14-C16 65/25/10) oxyethylenated (6 EO) for example, marketed under the name Akypo Soft 45 ^NV® by Kao Chemicals, fatty acids derived from polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil such as that marketed under the name Olivem 400 ^® by Biologia E Tecnologia or oxyethylenated sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate (6 EO) for example, marketed under the name Nikkol ECTD-6NEX ^® by Nikkol; And

salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl chain which are neutralized with an organic or inorganic base such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.

4) As amino acid derivatives, particular mention may be made of the alkaline salts of amino acids such as:

sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate for example, marketed under the name Sarkosyl NL ^97® by Ciba or marketed under the name Oramix L ^30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, such as the product marketed under the name of Nikkol Sarcosinate MN ^® by Nikkol or the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate marketed under the name of Nikkol Sarcosinate PN ^® by Nikkol;

alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate for example, marketed under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30 ^® by Nikkol, or marketed under the name Alanone ALE ^® by Kawaken or triethanolamine N-lauroyl- N-methylalanine sold under the name Alanone ^ALTA® by Kawaken;

glutamates, such as triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate such as the product marketed under the name Acylglutamate CT- ^12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate marketed, for example such as the product marketed under the name Acylglutamate LT -12 ^® by Ajinomoto and sodium stearoyl glutamate;

aspartates, such as the mixture of N-lauroyl triethanolamine aspartate and N-myristoyl triethanolamine aspartate, for example marketed under the name ^Asparack® by Mitsubishi;

glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate for example, sold under the names Amilite GCS- ^12® and Amilite GCK- ^12® by Ajinomoto;

citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 moles), marketed under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; And

galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate marketed by Soliance.

5) As sulfosuccinates, one can quote for example the monosulfosuccinate of lauryl alcohol (C12/C14 70/30) oxyethylenated (3 EO) such as the product marketed under the names of Setacin 103 Special ^® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4 ^® by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulfosuccinate of C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alcohols for example, marketed under the name of Setacin F Special Paste ^® by Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate (2 EO) such as the product marketed under the name of Standapol SH 135 ^® by Cognis, oxyethylenated lauryl amide monosulfosuccinate (5 EO) for example, marketed under the name Lebon A-5000 ^® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate (10 EO ) for example, marketed under the name Rewopol SBCS ^50® by Witco or ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulfosuccinate, for example, marketed under the name Rewoderm S ^1333® by Witco. It is also possible to use polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate for example, marketed under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by MacIntyre.

6) As alkyl sulphates, mention may be made, for example, of triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: TEA-lauryl sulphate) such as the product marketed by Huntsman under the name Empicol TL40 FL or the product marketed by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, products which are 40% in aqueous solution. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CFTA name: Ammonium lauryl sulphate) such as the product marketed by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL which is at 30% in aqueous solution.

7) As alkyl ether sulphates, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate) such as that marketed under the names of Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis, lauryl ether sulphate of ammonium (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulfate) such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.

8) As sulfonates, mention may be made, for example, of α-olefin sulfonates such as sodium α-olefin sulfonate (C ₁₄ -C ₁₆ ) marketed under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 ^® by Stepan, marketed under the names Witconate AOS Protégé ^® and Sulframine AOS PH 12 ^® by Witco or marketed under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG ^® by Stepan, secondary sodium olefin sulfonate for example, marketed under the name Hostapur SAS 30 ^® by Clariant; or linear alkyl aryl sulfonates such as sodium xylene sulfonate for example, sold under the names Manrosol SXS30 ^® , Manrosol SXS40 ^® and Manrosol SXS93 ^® by Manro.

9) As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates such as sodium cocoyl-isethionate, such as the product marketed under the name Jordapon CI P ^® by Jordan.

10) As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, for example, marketed under the name Hostapon CT ^Paste® by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyltaurate such as sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate for example, marketed under the name Hostapon LT-SF ^® by Clariant or marketed under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T ^® by Nikkol or sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate such as that marketed under the name Nikkol ^PMT® by Nikkol, with a preference for sodium methyl stearoyltaurate (for example, Nikkol ST from Nikkol).

11) The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides may in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulfosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of tartaric ester of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4), for example marketed under the name Eucarol AGE-ET ^® by Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of sulfosuccinic ester of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4 ), such as the product marketed under the name Test 512 ^MP® by Seppic or the sodium salt of citric ester of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) for example marketed under the name Eucarol AGE- ^EC® by Cesalpinia.

In a preferred embodiment, the anionic surfactants useful for the present invention are selected from the group consisting of potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium methyl stearoyltaurate and mixtures thereof.

The composition of the present invention may also comprise at least one fatty compound selected from the group consisting of oils, waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohols can have the R-OH structure in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be replaced by at least one hydroxyl group. Examples of fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The fatty acids used in the context of the invention are selected more particularly from carboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, polylactic acid (PLA), xanthan gum, poly C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate, acrylates/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates, lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and mixtures thereof . In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of polylactic acid (PLA), xanthan gum, poly C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate, acrylates/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer .

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol and salicylic acid.

Suitable fillers of the invention may be silicas, including silica silylate, mica, magnesium oxide, nylon-12-nylon-66, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate and magnesium carbonate.

Suitable additional solvents include, but are not limited to, short chain alcohols such as ethanol, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and mixtures of these.

Suitable additional active compounds include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, capryloyl salicylic acid, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of silicones used in the composition of the present invention are, but not limited to, dimethicone, caprylyl methicone, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

A non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol and niacinamide.

The additional ingredients may comprise from about 1% to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 5% by weight to about 80% by weight, more preferably from about 10% to about 70% by weight, of even more preferably from about 15% to about 60% by weight, more preferably from about 20% by weight to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the invention.

By way of non-restrictive illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1

The compositions according to the present invention were prepared according to the following steps:

1 – An oily phase containing unsaturated dioic acid was added to the main reactor at a temperature of at least 70°C and under shear conditions.

2 – After reaching the appropriate temperature and a period of time of at least 10 minutes, an aqueous phase containing water, solvents and preservatives was added in order to carry out the emulsification step.

3 – After emulsification, polymers, fillers and other ingredients where applicable, were added to finalize the formulation.

EXAMPLES 2 TO 4

The compositions according to the present invention are those represented in Examples 2, 3 and 4.

FUNCTION INGREDIENT CONCENTRATION (% BY WEIGHT) EXAMPLE 2 EXAMPLE 3 EXAMPLE 4

FILTERS +
OCTADECENEDIOIC ACID OCTADECENEDIOIC ACID 0.34 1.0 0.85 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 3 2.5 2.5 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 1.3 1.3 1.3 OCTOCRYLENE 5 5 5 BUTYL
METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.6 3.6 3.6 TEREPHTHALYLIDENE ACID
SULFONIC DICAMPHOR 1.32 1.32 1.32


SURFACTANT POLOXAMER 338 0.5 0.5 0.5 GLYCERYL STEARATE 1 1 1 SODIUM METHYL STEAROYLTAURATE 0.7 0.7 0.7 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 1.3 1.3 1.3 PEG-100 STEARATE 1 1 1 FAT COMPOUND STEARYL ALCOHOL 1 1 1
POLYMER ALUMINIC STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE 2 2 2 XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 0.2 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 0.6 0.6 0.6
CONSERVATIVE PHENOXYETHANOL 0.7 0.7 0.7 SALICYLIC ACID 0.5 0.5 0.5
CHARGE SILICA SILYLATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 SILICA 2 2 2

SOLVENT CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.4 0.4 0.4 ALCOHOL 2 2 2 WATER q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ ALKYL BENZOATE 11 15 12


ACTIVE COMPOUNDS TRIETHANOLAMINE 1.2 1.2 1.2 DISODIUM EDTA 0.15 0.15 0.15 HYDROXYETHYLPIPERAZINE ETHANE SULFONIC ACID
0.5
0.5
0.5 CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID 0.3 0.3 0.3

SILICONE DIMETHICONE 3 3 3 VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER
2
2
2
VITAMIN TOCOPHEROL 0.2 0.2 0.2 NIACINAMIDE 1 1 1

EXAMPLE 5

The stability of the composition according to Example 2 was achieved under different functional conditions in a glass packaging: at room temperature and in a chamber at 45°C. At the start of the test (T ₀ ) and after two months under the aforementioned conditions (T ₂ ), the organoleptic and physico-chemical controls (including appearance, color, odor and viscosity) were carried out. The results were compared with a satisfactory standard (standard at T ₀ ). Satisfactory standard values have been established, in particular for pH, viscosity and dosage of UV filters.

The microscopic appearance was also evaluated under the microscope to check if crystals of saturated dioic acid had formed over time. Microscope images were taken at T ₀ and 5 months after manufacture under storage conditions at room temperature (T _5M ).

The results are summarized in the table below and in Figure 1.

CRITERIA
Stallion at T ₀ RESULTS T ₀ T ₂
(Ambient temperature) T ₂
(at 45°C) Aspect Viscous cream compliant compliant compliant Color White compliant compliant compliant Smell Characteristic compliant compliant compliant pH 5.3 ± 0.3 5.5 5.4 5.3 Viscosity 25 to 45 standard units 34 31.1 45

Microscopic appearance LP: isotropic compliant compliant compliant LNP: moderate regular emulsion, good dispersion of fillers, pigments, clear edges compliant compliant compliant

The general results above make it possible to say that the stability tests and the compatibility tests are acceptable for the composition according to the present invention. The unsaturated dioic acid remained stable in the composition over the two months. The microscopic images in Figure 1 show no formation of crystals of octadecenedioic acid in the composition, thus indicating its solubilization and satisfactory stability even 5 months after its manufacture at room temperature.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) from 0.01% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one unsaturated dioic acid;
(b) from 5% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of C-alkyl benzoate₁₂-VS₁₅;
(c) a UV filter system; And
(d) water. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.1% to 5% by weight of the at least one unsaturated dioic acid, based on the total weight of the composition. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising from 5% to 20% by weight of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, based on the total weight of the composition. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of UV screening system in the cosmetic composition ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the at least one unsaturated dioic acid is selected from the group consisting of unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ dioic acids. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the at least one unsaturated dioic acid is octadecenedioic acid. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the system of UV filters comprises at least one UV filter selected from the group consisting of organic UV filters. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 7, in which the system of UV filters comprises at least one UV filter selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane and terephthalylidene acid dicamphre sulfonic. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of surfactants, vitamins, preservatives, polymers, silicones, fatty compounds, fillers, additional solvents, additional active compounds and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) from 0.01% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of octadecenedioic acid;
(b) from 5% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate;
(c) a UV filter system; And
(d) water.