FR3080033A1 - NOVEL COMPOSITION BASED ON POLYCAFEOYLQUINIC ACIDS, ITS USE IN COSMETICS AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition (C1) comprising for 100% of its mass: a) - from 60.0% by mass to 75.0% by weight of an organic solvent (SO1) chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, or a mixture of these compounds; b) - from 0.1% by weight to 2.0% by weight of a composition (ES) comprising a mass quantity xi, expressed in mass equivalent of 1-O- (2-cafoyl) -3-maloyl acid; O-dicaffeoyl quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / g of at least one compound of general formula (I): in which Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4 and Q5 represent, independently of one another, the hydroxyl radical or a its salts or a radical chosen from the radicals of cafeoyl, maloyl, maloyl and maloyl, it being understood that at least one of these radicals Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4 and Q5 represents neither the radical -OH; nor one of its salts; and c) - from 20.0% by weight to 35.0% by weight of water. Use of the composition (Ci) as a moisturizing cosmetic active agent.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a new composition comprising derivatives of poly-substituted quinic acids, and more particularly of an extract of the Arctium lappa plant comprising said derivatives, its preparation process, and the use of the new composition comprising derivatives of polysubstituted quinic acids to prepare formulations for topical use intended to hydrate the skin, and more particularly the epidermis of human or animal skin.

The invention mainly finds application in the cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical fields, but also in the field of the textile industry for example for the treatment of synthetic or natural textile fibers woven or knitted, or also in the field of the paper industry for example for the manufacture of paper for sanitary or domestic use.

The skin is an atypical organ of the human body, extremely thin in terms of its size but also the heaviest organ in an individual. One of the characteristics of the skin resides in the fact that it is an interface organ, a limit organ, between the interior medium (human body) and the exterior environment. As a result, and with the flora that covers and inhabits it, the skin is the first protective barrier of the human organism.

Due to its position as an interface with the outside environment, the skin is subjected to numerous daily stresses, such as for example contact with clothing, changes in temperature, changes in humidity, changes in pressure , or even to aggressions, such as for example contact with certain chemicals having or which may have a very acidic, or very basic, or irritating character, with chemicals considered as polluting agents.

The skin is made up of layers of different tissues:

- The epidermis, composed of keratinocytes, is its outermost part, then comes

- The dermis, which is a connective tissue composed mainly of fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix, and

- The hypodermis, made up of adipocytes, which is the deepest part and the most distant from the external environment.

The skin performs various functions in the interest of the entire system that it houses, among which we can retain:

- A mechanical barrier function to guarantee the integrity of the internal environment of the organism,

- An emunctorial function aimed at secreting sweat based on water, salts and acid waste,

- A body temperature regulation function, and contains many other regulatory mechanisms, such as its adaptation and protection mechanism against ultraviolet radiation (adaptive pigment coloring by the production of melanin), like for example an immune watch system by the presence of macrophages, dendritic cells.

Human skin is also the first image offered to others.

Therefore, improving its appearance is a matter of constant concern for human beings. The skin is a reflection of a state of well-being, often associated with youth, and in contrast to a state of fatigue and / or aging. As a result, the preservation, the improvement of the state of the outermost layer of the skin, namely the epidermis, constitutes a major center of interest for research carried out by the cosmetic industries.

At the periphery of the epidermis, there is an upper stratum corneum, called the stratum corneum, which is the first layer of the epidermis to undergo stresses of external origin, such as variations in external climatic conditions (temperature, pressure, hygrometry) or mechanical stress.

The stratum corneum is more particularly in contact with the skin microbiota.

By "cutaneous microbiota" is meant in the sense of the present application a population of microorganisms, specialized or opportunistic, such as for example bacteria, fungi, yeasts, etc., which lives on the surface of the skin.

The skin microbiota cannot be defined specifically and generalized for all individuals. Since the launch in 2007 of the National Institute of Health's Human Microbiome Project (HMP), researchers have been able to observe large topographic variations in the human microbiota as well as great differences between individuals.

At least nineteen phyla have been identified, the main four being Actinobacteria (51.8%), Firmicutes (24.4%), Proteobacteria (16.5%) and Bacteroidetes (6.3%). The genera mainly identified are Corynebacterium, Propionibacterium and Staphylococcus. The abundance of each group is highly dependent on the different locations. The fungal organisms isolated on the skin are of the genus Malassezia spp. Furthermore, Demodex mites are also present and reside in the pilosebaceous units, most often on the surface of the face.

This microbiota feeds both on molecules excreted by the skin (lipids, proteins, etc.), and on compounds secreted by communities of microorganisms, demonstrating real cooperation within this microbiota. In addition, this relationship with the host is a real symbiosis.

Bacteria can be commensal when they live in contact with the mucosal lining of a host without causing damage. A balance is then established between the individual and the various commensal flora of the skin and mucous membranes, but this balance is constantly threatened by physical or chemical aggressions undergone by the stratum corneum, such as for example pollution, variations in temperature, ultraviolet radiation, intensive use of detergent surfactants, stress, etc. Besides these commensal bacteria, there are opportunistic, transient, undesirable and / or pathogenic bacteria.

Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis) constitutes more than 90% of the resident aerobic flora present in the stratum corneum. The resident flora is also composed of anaerobic bacteria belonging to the division of Actinobacteria such as Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), frequently found in sebaceous areas, such as the back, face and scalp.

While the normal flora of the skin constitutes a defense for the host, an increase or reduction in the bacterial composition (dysbiosis) can lead to a physiological imbalance, as for example, by slowing down the differentiation of the keratinocytes contained in the epidermis this weakens the barrier function of the skin, making the stratum corneum more vulnerable to dehydration and dryness.

This is why, improving the appearance or maintaining the good appearance of human skin, consists in particular in maintaining or strengthening the barrier function of the epidermis so as to maintain or achieve a state of hydration of the skin. stratum corneum at an optimal and satisfactory level. This also avoids the aesthetic and physiological drawbacks associated with a dry condition of the skin.

Many solutions have already been provided to solve the problems of dryness of the skin due to dehydration of the stratum corneum, in particular by the development of moisturizing compositions.

An improvement or a preservation of the hydration of the skin, and more particularly of the stratum corneum, can be conceived by bringing the skin into contact with compounds which have a "hydrating effect".

By "hydrating effect" is meant an increase in the rate of hydration of the stratum corneum resulting from the topical application of a chemical substance or a chemical composition to the surface of the skin to be treated.

As a moisturizing agent for the skin, and more particularly for very dry and unstructured skin, there are:

- Occlusive agents which are characterized by their ability to form an impermeable film on the surface of the skin and thus greatly reduce the evaporation of water on the surface of the epidermis. Such agents are for example mineral oils such as petroleum jelly or liquid paraffins, glycerin, shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii butter), beeswax (Cera alba), certain vegetable oils such as seed oil wheat, coconut oil, cocoa butter, lanolin and silicone derivatives;

- Emollient agents which are characterized by their ability to fill the intercellular spaces between the corneocytes (cells of the stratum corneum of the epidermis); they also limit the evaporation of water from the epidermis, but to a lesser extent than occlusive agents. Such agents are for example ceramides, linoleic acid and certain vegetable oils such as sweet almond oil or jojoba oil;

- Film-forming agents, which are characterized by their ability to combine with water to form semi-permeable hydrogels; they thus participate in the modulation of the evaporation of water from the stratum corneum. Such agents are, for example, collagen, elastin, DNA, pectin, gelatin, chitosan, or glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid;

- Humectants, hydrophilic substances and which are characterized by their high hygroscopic power, namely their ability to retain water. They thus help to allow the stratum corneum to conserve both the water it contains, and that provided by the cosmetic formula, such agents are for example urea, glycerol, lactic acid, amino acids , sodium lactate, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, alpha-hydroxy acids or sorbitol. Glycerol, urea and lactic acid are the humectants most used in moisturizing cosmetic compositions, and especially glycerol for its very competitive cost.

However, certain humectants, such as glycerin, also have an immediate occlusive effect, which is not desired for normal skin, the barrier function is not impaired. In addition, some of them, such as glycerin, cause certain irritations of the skin and mucous membranes in particularly sensitive people.

Among the plant extracts which can be used for their actions on the human microbiota, there may be mentioned a lyophilized extract of burdock leaves (or Arctium lappa) for which an antibacterial activity has been demonstrated and more particularly an activity against oral microorganisms, which are more effective against bacteria associated with endodontic pathogens such as Bacillus subtilis, Candida albicans, Lactobacillus acidophilus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (1).

The Chinese patent application published under number CN 104304955 A discloses a complex composition obtained by mixing different parts of plants, among which are the roots of burdock, then by centrifugation to obtain the juice of this complex mixture of parts of plants. plant. She also discloses that the herbs used, such as burdock roots, are used in the long term for their beneficial effects on the kidneys, on skin hydration and to delay aging.

The Chinese patent application published under number CN 105232438 A discloses a mask intended to hydrate the face, comprising a complex mixture in which there are many root extracts including an extract of burdock roots.

The Chinese patent application published under number CN107157800 A discloses a complex formulation comprising polysaccharides derived from burdock roots having a hydrating, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and anti-fatigue effect.

Chinese patent application published under number CN 106074663 A discloses a composition of plant extracts comprising an extract of Milo wood, an extract of burdock roots, and an extract of honeysuckle, and more particularly describes that the extract of Burdock Roots treats dry skin, acute pruritus, inflammation, scarring and other symptoms, by inhibiting inflammatory factors induced by different causes (external stress or genetic factors), improving immune activity and activity antioxidant for the skin, soothing and repairing the skin.

In the context of their research into improving skin hydration, the inventors set out to develop a new composition comprising poly-substituted quinic acids (or "QPS"). with positive effects on the hydration of human skin.

According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass:

a) - From 60.0% by mass to 75.0% by mass of an organic solvent (SOi) chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3 -butanediol, 1,2butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, or a mixture of these compounds;

b) - From 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass of a composition (ES) comprising a mass quantity xi, expressed in mass equivalent of the acid 1-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl-3,5 -O-dicaféoyl quinique, greater than or equal to 200 mg / g of at least one compound of general formula (I):

q ₄ (1), in which Qi, Q2, Q3, CU and Qs represent, independently of each other, the hydroxyl radical or a salt thereof or a radical chosen from:

(i) - The coffeeoyl radical of formula (II):

(ii) - The maloyl radical of formula (Ilia) or (Hlb): OH 9

OH

OH (Hlb);

(iii) - The coffeeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

(IVa)

OH

OH (IVb) (iv) - The maloyl coffeeoyl radical of formula (Va), (Vb), (Vc) or (Vd),

it being understood that at least one of these radicals Qi, Q ₂ , Q ₃ , CU and CUne represents neither the radical -OH; nor one of its salts; and

c) - From 20.0% by mass to 35.0% by mass of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “said mass quantity xi being expressed in mass equivalent of 1-O- (2-coffeeoyl) maloyl-3,5-O-dicaféoyl quinic acid” means that the mass quantity xi was determined by the implementation of a quantitative analytical method of the UHPLC-MS type (“Ultra High Performance Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectra), using as standard a standard of 1-O- (2-coffeeoyl acid ) maloyl-3,5-O-dicaféoyl quinique previously isolated and purified to a content greater than or equal to 99%.

Such a quantitative analysis of the UHPLC-MS type was carried out with an apparatus of the UHPLC-MS type Shimadzu_Nexera_LCMS 2020, equipped with a diode array detector and adjusted to a wavelength of 330 nanometers, of a column of the type Kinetex 2.6u XB-C18 100A. 100 x 2.1, and using a mobile phase A composed of water and 0.1% by mass of formic acid and a mobile phase B consisting of acetonitrile.

Among the compounds of general formula (I) present in composition (ES), there may be mentioned:

- The compounds of the family of DiCaféoylQuiniques acids (DCQ) as described in table 1 below:

Table 1

DiCaféoylQuiniques Acid (DCQ) 1,3-O-dicafeoylquinic acid (1,3-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl OH OH 1,4-O-dicafeoylquinic acid (1,4-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl OH caffeoyl OH 1,5-O-dicaféoylquinique acid (1,5-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl OH OH caffeoyl 3,4-O-dicafeoylquinic acid (3,4-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH caffeoyl caffeoyl OH 3,5-O-dicafeoylquinic acid (3,5-DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH caffeoyl OH caffeoyl 4,5-O-dicafeoylquinic acid (4,5 DCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH OH caffeoyl caffeoyl

- The compounds of the family of TriCaféoylQuiniques acids (TCQ) as described in table 2 below:

Table 2

TriCaféoylQuinique Acid (TCQ) 1,3,4-O-tricafeoylquinic acid (1,3,4-TCQ) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl caffeoyl OH acid e 1,3,5-O-tricaféoylquinique (1,3,5-1 QCN) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl OH caffeoyl acid e 1,4,5-O-tricaféoylquinique (1,4,5-1 QCN)

Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl OH caffeoyl caffeoyl acid e 3,4,5-O-tricaféoylquinique (1,3,4-1 QCN) Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH caffeoyl caffeoyl caffeoyl

- The compounds of the family of Maloyl TriCaféoylQuiniques acids (m-TCQ) as described in Table 3 below:

Table 3

Maloyl TriCaféoylQuiniques (m-TCQ) 1 -O-maloyl- (3,4,5-O-tricaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl caffeoyl caffeoyl caffeoyl 3-O-maloyl- (1,4,5-O-tricaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl Maloyl caffeoyl caffeoyl 4-O-maloyl- (1,3,5-O-tricaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl Maloyl caffeoyl 5-O-maloyl- (1,3,4-O-tricaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl caffeoyl Maloyl

- The compounds of the family of Maloyl DiCaféoylQuiniques acids (m-DCQ) as described in table 4 below

Table 4

Maloyl DiCaféoylQuinique Acid (m-DCQ) 4-0-Maloyl- (1,3-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl Maloyl OH 5-0-Maloyl- (1,3-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl OH Maloyl 3-0-Maloyl- acid (1.4 i-O-dicaffeoyl) quinic Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl Maloyl caffeoyl OH

5-O-maloyl- (1,4-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl OH caffeoyl Maloyl acid e 3-O-maloyl- (1,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl Maloyl OH caffeoyl acid e 4-O-maloyl- (1,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl OH Maloyl caffeoyl acid e 1-O-maloyl- (3,4-O-dicaféoyl) quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl caffeoyl caffeoyl OH acid e 5-O-maloyl- (3,4-O-dicaféoyl) quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH caffeoyl caffeoyl Maloyl acid e 1-O-maloyl- (3,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl caffeoyl OH caffeoyl acid e 4-O-maloyl- (3,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH caffeoyl Maloyl caffeoyl acid e 1-O-maloyl- (4,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl OH caffeoyl caffeoyl acid e 3-O-maloyl- (4,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Maloyl caffeoyl caffeoyl

- The compounds of the family of CaféoylMaloyl TriCaféoylQuiniques acids (cmTCQ) as described in Table 5 below:

Table 5

CaféoylMaloyl TriCaféoylQuinique Acid (cm-TCQ) 1-O - (2-caféoyl) maloyl - (3,4,5-O-tricaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 CaféoylMaloyl caffeoyl caffeoyl caffeoyl 3-O acid - (2-caféoyl) maloy - (1,4,5-O-tricaféoyl) quinic

Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl Caféoyl Maloyl caffeoyl caffeoyl 4-O acid - (2-caféoyl) maloy - (1,3,5-O-tricaféoyl) quinic Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl Caféoyl Maloyl caffeoyl 5-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl- (1,3,4-O-tricaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl caffeoyl Caféoyl Maloyl

- The compounds of the CaféoylMaloyl DiCaféoylQuiniques acid family (cmDCQ) as described in Table 6 below

Table 6

CaféoylMaloyl DiCaféoylQuinique Acid (cm-DCQ) 4-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl (1,3-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl Caféoyl Maloyl OH 5-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl (1,3-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl caffeoyl OH Caféoyl Maloyl 3-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl- (1,4-O-dicaféoyl) acid quinic Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl Caféoyl Maloyl caffeoyl OH 5-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl - (1,4-O-dicaféoyl acid quinic Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl OH caffeoyl Caféoyl Maloyl 3-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl - (1,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl Caféoyl Maloyl OH caffeoyl 4-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl - (1,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 caffeoyl OH Caféoyl Maloyl caffeoyl 1-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl - (3,4-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caféoyl Maloyl caffeoyl caffeoyl OH 5-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl - (3,4-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5

OH caffeoyl caffeoyl Caféoyl Maloyl 1-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl - (3,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Maloyl caffeoyl OH caffeoyl 4-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl - (3,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH caffeoyl Caféoyl Maloyl caffeoyl 1-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl - (4,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinic acid Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 Caféoyl Maloyl OH caffeoyl caffeoyl 3-O- acid (2-ca1 fëoyl) maloyl - (4,5-O-dicaféoyl) quinique Q1 Q3 Q4 Q5 OH Caféoyl Maloyl caffeoyl caffeoyl

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (la) corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Qi represents the maloyl radical of formula ( IIIb), Head Q4 and Qs, identical, represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula (II).

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ib) corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q1 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula ( IVa); Qset Qs, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); CU represents the radical -OH.

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ib) corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q1 represents the coffeeoylmaloyl radical of formula ( IVb); Q3 and Qs, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Q4 represents the radical -OH.

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ie) is the compound of formula (Here), corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q1 and Qs, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Q3 represents the radical -OH; Q4 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa).

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ie) is the compound of formula (Here), corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Qi and Qs, identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Qs represents the radical -OH; Q4 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb).

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ie) is the compound of formula (Ic ₂ ), corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q1 and Q4, identical, represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula (II); Q3 represents the radical -OH; Qs represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa).

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ie) is the compound of formula (Ic ₂ ), corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Q1 and Q4, identical, represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula (II); Qs represents the radical -OH; Qs represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb).

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (Ci) as defined above is characterized in that said composition (ES) comprises:

- At least one compound of formula (la) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 represents the maloyl radical of formula (Ilia) or of formula (IlIb) and Qset Q4 and Qs identical, each represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula ( II);

- A compound of formula (Ib) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 represents the coffeeoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb), Q3 and Qs each represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula (II) and Q4 represents the hydroxyl radical, and

- At least one compound of formula (le) chosen from:

- The compound of formula (Here) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 and Qs each represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula (II), Q3 represents the hydroxyl radical and Q4 represents the coffeeoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb); and

- The compound of formula (lc ₂ ) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 and Q4 represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula (II), Q3 represents the hydroxyl radical and Qs represents the coffeeoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb).

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the organic solvent (SO1) present in the composition (Ci) as defined above is chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, and 2-methyl- 2,4-pentanediol; it is more particularly 1,2-propanediol.

The composition (Ci) object of the present invention can be prepared by simple mixing of its constituents, at a temperature between 20 ° C and 60 ° C, more particularly between 20 ° C and 40 ° C, and even more particularly between 20 ° C and 30 ° C, and with mechanical stirring of the anchor type at a speed between 50 revolutions / minute and 150 revolutions / minute.

According to a second aspect, the subject of the invention is a process for the preparation of the composition (Ci) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising the following successive steps:

- A step a) of cultivation in above-ground conditions of the Arctium lappa plant supplied with a nutritive solution, so as to obtain a biomass (BMi);

- A step b) of immersion of the roots of said biomass (BMi) obtained in step a) above in a medium (Si), so that the biomass ratio (BMi) / mixture (Si) is between 0 , 5 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L, said medium (Si) comprising for 100% of its own mass, from 20% to 35% by mass of water, the pH of which has been adjusted to a value between 1, 5 and 3.5 by adding a protic acid chosen from sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid, and from 65% to 80% by mass of an organic solvent (SOi) chosen from 1, 2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6hexanediol, 1,8 -octanediol or a mixture of these diols;

- A step c) of separation of the roots from the biomass at the end of the treatment defined in step b), to isolate a liquid phase (Li);

- A step d) of immersion of the roots of said biomass (BM ₂ ) from step c) in said medium (Si); in a biomass (BM ₂ ) / mixture (Si) ratio of between 0.1 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L;

A step e) of separation of said biomass (BM ₂ ) at the end of the treatment defined in step d), to isolate a liquid phase (L ₂ ),

- A step f) of filtration of said liquid phase (La) obtained in step d), to isolate a liquid liquid phase (La),

- A step g) of mixing said liquid phases (Li) and (La), then if necessary adding water and / or said organic solvent (SOi), so as to obtain the expected composition (Ci).

Step a) of cultivation in soil-less conditions (or so-called aeroponics) of the Arctium lappa plant is carried out according to standard conditions known to those skilled in the art, and more particularly those concerning the influence of the content of nitrogen (2) (3) (4) (5) (6), and the content of phosphorus and potassium present in the culture medium. Stage a) of cultivation in above-ground conditions is therefore carried out by optimizing the nitrogen / phosphorus / potassium ratio present in the nutritive medium, and by optimizing the electroconductive parameter of such a nutritive medium.

Step a) is generally carried out at a temperature of between 20 ° C and 40 ° C, for a period of between 4 and 10 weeks, so as to obtain a biomass (BMi), in a significant quantity, in particular at the root level; step a) is stopped when the growth of biomass (BMi) is no longer observed.

According to another particular aspect, during step b) of the method as defined above, the mixture (Si) comprising for 100% of its own mass, from 23% by mass to 32% by mass and even more particularly of 26% by mass to 32% by mass of water, and from 68% by mass to 77% by mass and even more particularly from 68% by mass to 74% by mass of an organic solvent (SOi) selected from the elements of the group constituted by 1,2- propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1-4butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8octanediol.

In step b) of the process for preparing the composition (Ci) as defined above, the pH of the water present in the mixture (Si) is adjusted to a value between 1.5 and 3.5 by addition a protic acid chosen from the elements of the group consisting of sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid.

According to a more particular aspect during step b) of the process as defined above, the pH of the water present in the mixture (Si) is brought to a value between 1.5 and 3.0, and even more particularly between 1.5 and 2.5 by adding a protic acid chosen from the elements of the group consisting of sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid.

According to an even more particular aspect during step b) of the method as defined above, the pH of the water present in the mixture (Si) is brought to a value between 1.5 and 2.5 by adding hydrochloric acid.

In step b) of the process for preparing the composition (Ci) as defined above, bringing the roots of the biomass (BMi) obtained at the end of step a) into contact with the mixture (Si) as previously described is carried out for a period of between 10 minutes and 60 minutes, at a temperature between 20 ° C and 30 ° C, with a biomass ratio (BMfi / mixture (S1) between 0.5 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L.

According to a more particular aspect during step b) of the method as defined above, bringing the roots of the biomass (BMi) obtained at the end of step a) into contact with the mixture (Si), more particularly by immersion, as previously described, is carried out for a period of between 10 minutes and 45 minutes, more particularly between 10 minutes and 30 minutes, at a temperature between 20 ° C and 30 ° C, with a biomass ratio (BMi ) / mixture (S1) between 0.5 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L, more particularly between 0.5 kg / L and 1.0 kg / L.

In step d) of the process for preparing the composition (Ci) as defined above, bringing the biomass (BM ₂ ) obtained at the end of step c) into contact with the mixture (Si) as as previously described is carried out for a period of between 24 hours and 72 hours, at a temperature between 20 ° C and 30 ° C, with a biomass (BM ₂ ) / mixture (Si) ratio between 0.1 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L.

According to a more particular aspect during step d) of the process as defined above, bringing the roots of the biomass (BM ₂ ) obtained at the end of step c) into contact with the mixture (Si), more particularly by immersion, as previously described, is carried out for a period of between 24 hours and 60 hours, more particularly between 24 hours and 48 hours, at a temperature between 20 ° C and 30 ° C, with a biomass ratio ( BM ₂ ) / mixture (Si) between 0.1 kg / L and 1.0 kg / L, and more particularly between 0.3 kg / L and 1.0 kg / L.

In step f) of the process for preparing the composition (Ci) as defined above, the filtration of the liquid (L ₂ ) obtained at the end of step d), implemented to recover a liquid (L3 ), is carried out with the devices and materials known to those skilled in the art for effectively separating solids from liquids.

In step g) of the process for preparing the composition (Ci) as defined above, the mixture of the liquid (L1) obtained at the end of step c) and the liquid (L3) obtained at the end of step f), is carried out at a temperature between 20 ° C and 30 ° C, with mechanical stirring of the anchor type at a speed between 50 revolutions / minute and 150 revolutions / minute. If necessary, an optional addition of water or organic solvent (SO1) is carried out so as to obtain the expected composition (Ci).

According to a particular aspect, during step g) of the process as defined above, the content of organic solvent (SO1) is adjusted between 65% to 75% by mass and the water content is adjusted 25% to 35% by mass, more particularly by adding water and / or organic solvent (SO1)

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the organic solvent (SO1) selected from the elements of the group consisting of 1,2-propanediol, 1,3propanediol, and 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol.

According to another more particular aspect of the present invention, the protic acid present in the water of the mixture (Si) used in step b) and in step d) of the process for the preparation of said composition (Ci ) is phosphoric acid.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to the use of the composition (Ci) as defined above, as a hydrating cosmetic active agent.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic formulation for topical use comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and an effective amount of the composition (Ci) as defined above.

The expression for topical use used in the definition of the cosmetic formulation used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention means that said formulation is applied by application to the skin, whether it is a direct application in the case of a cosmetic formulation or of an indirect application when the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is impregnated on a support intended to be brought into contact with the skin (paper, wipe, textile, transdermal device, etc. ..).

Said composition (C2) is generally spread over the surface of the skin to be treated, then the skin is massaged for a few moments.

The expression “cosmetically acceptable” used in the definition of the cosmetic formulation for topical use, implemented in the cosmetic process object of the present invention, means according to the directive of the Council of the European Economic Community N ° 76/768 / EEC of July 27, 1976 modified by Directive No. 93/35 / EEC of June 14, 1993, that said formulation includes any substance or preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary system, nails , lips and genitals) or with teeth and oral mucous membranes for the sole and exclusive purpose of cleaning, perfuming, modifying their appearance and / or correcting body odors and / or protect them or keep them in good condition.

By effective amount of a composition (Ci) as defined above and present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use implemented in the cosmetic process object of the present invention, is meant for 100% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation for use topically, a proportion of between 0.01% and 5% by mass, more particularly between 0.01% and 3% by mass, even more particularly between 0.1% and 3% by mass, and even more particularly between 0.5% and 2% by mass in composition (Ci).

The cosmetic formulations for topical use used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention are generally in the form of aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solutions, in the form of a suspension, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, whether of the water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil type, or in the form of 'a powder.

The cosmetic formulations for topical use implemented in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention can be packaged in a bottle, in a device of the pump bottle type, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device provided with a wall. perforated like a grid or in a device fitted with a ball applicator (called roll-on).

In general, the composition (Ci), present in the cosmetic formulations for topical use implemented in the cosmetic process object of the present invention, is associated with chemical additives usually used in the field of formulations for topical use, such as foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, thermal or mineral waters, plasticizing agents , emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestrants, chelating agents, oils, waxes, antioxidant agents, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorant agents, active ingredients intended to provide a treatment action protective and / or protective vis-à-vis the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active agents, exfoliating particles, texture agents , optical brighteners, insect repellents.

As examples of foaming and / or detergent surfactants which can be combined with said composition (Ci), mention may be made of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic foaming surfactants and / or detergents;

- Among the foaming anionic surfactants and / or detergents, there are for example the salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, amines, or amino alcohols of alkyl ethersulphates, alkylsulphates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglycerides sulfates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinessulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkyl etherphosphates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylosulfonates, alkylcarboxylsulfonates, alkylcarboxylic acid sulfates , alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylsarcosinates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, acylactylates, N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, N-acylated derivatives of peptides, N-acylated derivatives of proteins, N-acylated derivatives of fatty acids.

- Among the foaming amphoteric surfactants and / or detergents, there are for example alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.

- Among the foaming cationic surfactants and / or detergents, there are for example quaternary ammonium derivatives.

- among the nonionic foaming surfactants, there are for example alkyl polyglycosides comprising an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising from eight to sixteen carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, l 'undecylenyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1,12-dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product sold under the name INCI "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; copra amides; N-alkylamines.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants which can be combined with said composition (Ci), there are fatty esters of optionally alkoxylated alkyl polyglycosides, such as ethoxylated methyl polyglucoside esters such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate. and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate sold respectively under the names GLUCAMATE ™ LT and GLUMATE ™ DOE120; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrytyl tetrastearate marketed under the name CROTHIX ™ DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate marketed under the name ANTIL ™ 141; fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOS ™ T211, PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOS ™ GT2125.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents which can be associated with said composition (Ci), there are polymers of polyelectrolyte type, linear or branched or crosslinked, such as the homopolymer of acrylic acid partially or totally salified, the homopolymer of partially or fully salified methacrylic acid, the homopolymer of 2-methyl - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) partially or fully salified, copolymers of acrylic acid and AMPS, copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, copolymers of vinylpyrolidone and AMPS, copolymers of AMPS and (2- hydroxyethyl), copolymers of AMPS and (2hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and Ν, Ν-dimethyl acrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and tris (hydroxy-methyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and (2-hydroxy ethyl acrylate), copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and (2-hydroxy ethyl methacrylate), copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and THAM, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and Ν, Ν-dimethyl acrylamide, terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, AMPS and THAM, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and Ν, Νdimethyl acrylamide, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and acrylamide, the copolymers res acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, the copolymers of AMPS and d 'alkyl acrylates, the carbon chain of which comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, the linear, branched or crosslinked terpolymer of at least one monomer having a strong, free, partially acidic function salified or fully salified, with at least one neutral monomer, and at least one monomer of formula (VIII):

CH ₂ = C (R ₃ ) -C (= O) - [CH2-CH2-O] n-R4 (VI11) in which R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R4 represents a linear alkyl radical or branched having from eight to thirty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty.

Said polymers can be in the form of a solution, an aqueous suspension, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a powder. As examples of commercial polymers, there are those marketed under the names SIMULGEL ™ EG, SIMULGEL ™ EPG, SEPIGEL ™ 305, SIMULGEL ™ 600, SIMULGEL ™ NS, SIMULGEL ™ INS100, SIMULGEL ™ FL, SIMULGEL ™ A, SIMULGEL ™ SMS 88, SEPINOV ™ EMT10, SEPIPLUS ™ 400, SEPIPLUS ™ 265, SEPIPLUS ™ S, SEPIMAX ™ Zen, ARISTOFLEX ™ AVC, ARISTOFLEX ™ AVS, NOVEMER ™ EC-1, NOVEMER ™ EC2, ARISTOFLEX ™ HMB, COSMEDIA ™ SP, FLOCARE ™ ET25, FLOCARE ™ ET75, FLOCARE ™ ET26, FLOCARE ™ ET30, FLOCARE ™ ET58, FLOCARE ™ PSD30, VISCOLAM ™ AT64, VISCOLAM ™ AT100.

As other examples of thickening and / or gelling agents which can be combined with said composition (Ci), there are:

- Polysaccharides consisting only of oses, such as glucans or homopolymers of glucose, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main chain of D-mannose is between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans from cassia gum (DS = 1/5), locust bean gum (DS = 1/4), tara gum (DS = 1/3), guar gum (DS = 1/2) or fenugreek gum (DS = 1);

- Polysaccharides made up of derivatives of oses, such as sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronanes and more particularly algines, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic and karaya gum exudates, glucosaminoglycans;

- Cellulose and its derivatives, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic starch derivatives, polyurethanes.

As examples of stabilizing agents which can be combined with said composition (Ci), there are microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, polymers silicones such as polyalkyl polyether polysiloxane copolymers.

As examples of thermal or mineral waters which can be associated with said composition (Ci), there are thermal or mineral waters having a mineralization of at least 300 mg / l, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les Bains, water from Néris-les-Bains, water from Allevard-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, Lons le Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-lesbains water.

As examples of hydrotropic agents which can be associated with said composition (Ci), there are xylene sulfonates, cumene sulfonates, hexyl polyglucoside, (2-ethyl hexyl) polyglucoside, n-heptyl polyglucoside.

As examples of deodorant agents which can be combined with said composition (Ci), there are alkali silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulphate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate ; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2 decanediol; 1,3 propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; TRICLOSAN ™; aluminum hydrobromide, aluminum hydrochlorides, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium hydrochloride, aluminum and zirconium tetrachloride , aluminum and zirconium pentachlorhydrate, aluminum and zirconium octochlorhydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium and aluminum lactate, aluminum hydrochloride and glycol complexes, such as aluminum hydrochloride and propylene glycol, aluminum dihydrochloride and propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum hydrochloride and polyethylene glycol complex, dihydrochloride complex aluminum and polyethylene glycol, the complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol.

As examples of solvents and co-solvents which can be combined with said composition (Ci), there are water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol , water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, mixtures of water and said solvents.

As examples of oils which can be associated with said composition (Ci), there are mineral oils such as paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, isoparaffins or white mineral oils; oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane; vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil , pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, passionflower oil , hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula, oils from flowers or vegetables; ethoxylated vegetable oils; synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glycerol triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, hydrogenated oils, poly (alpha-olefins), polyolefins such as poly (isobutane), synthetic iso-alkanes such as isohexadecane , isododecane, perfluorinated oils; silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, silicones modified by amines, silicones modified by fatty acids, silicones modified by alcohols, silicones modified by alcohols and fatty acids, silicones modified by polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified by fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified by alkyl groups. By "oils" is meant in the present application the compounds and / or mixtures of compounds insoluble in water, having a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25 ° C.

As examples of waxes which can be associated with said composition (Ci), there are beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids solid at room temperature; solid glycerides at room temperature. By "waxes" is meant in the present application the compounds and / or mixtures of compounds insoluble in water, having a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C.

As examples of fats which can be associated with said composition (Ci), there are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, comprising from eight to thirty-six carbon atoms, or saturated or unsaturated fatty acids , linear or branched, having from eight to thirty-six 36 carbon atoms.

As examples of sunscreens that can be associated with said composition (Ci), there are all those appearing in cosmetic directive 76/768 / EEC as amended annex VII: in particular the following compounds:

- 2-phenyl 5-methyl benzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methyl phenyl benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy -5'methylphenyl) benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4-tbutylbenzoylmethane; 5- (3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentan-2-one; the family of polysiloxanes such as benzylidene siloxane malonate; or those of the following families of compounds:

- Family benzoic acid such as para-amino benzoic acids (PABA), in particular the monoglycerol esters of PABA, the ethyl esters of N, Npropoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of Ν, Ν-diethoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of Ν , Ν-dimethyl PABA, the methyl esters of Ν, Ν-dimethyl PABA, the butyl esters of Ν, Ν-dimethyl PABA;

- Family of anthranilic acid such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate;

- Family salicylic acid such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethyl hexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropyl phenyl salicylate;

- Family cinnamic acid such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate, cinnamate p-methoxyisoamyl, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy 2ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy 2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, pmethoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, ethyl-a-cyano-p-phenyl cinnamate, 2ethylhexyl-a-cyano-p-phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl diparamethoxy mono-2-ethylhexanoyl cinnamate;

- Benzophenone family such as 2,4-dihydroxy benzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy 4-methoxy benzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone, 2hydroxy 4-methoxy benzophenone, 2- hydroxy 4-methoxy 4'-methyl benzophenone, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxy benzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenyl benzophenone, 4'phenyl benzophenone-2-carboxylate (2-ethyl hexyl), 2-hydroxy 4- (octyloxy) benzophenone, 4-hydroxy benzophenone-3-carboxylic; 3- (4'methylbenzylidene) -d, l-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) -d, l-camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor;

- Family of urocanic acid, such as this acid or ethyl urocanate

- Family of sulfonic acid such as 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5sulfonic acid and its salts;

- Triazine family such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, (ethyl hexyloxy) (hydroxy) phenyl 4-methoxyphenyl triazine, 2,4,6-trianillino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl hexyl-Toxy) -1 , 3,5-triazine, 4,4 - ((6 - (((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino) carbonyl) phenyl) amino) -

1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis- (2-ethylhexyl) ester of benzoic acid;

- Diphenylacrylate family such as 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3diphenyl-2-propenoate or ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate;

Among the inorganic sunscreens, also called mineral screens, which can be associated with said composition (Ci), there are titanium oxides, zinc oxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red or black iron oxides, chromium oxides. These mineral screens can be micronized or not, have undergone or not surface treatments and be optionally presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.

A subject of the invention is also one for improving the state of hydration of the epidermis of human skin, characterized in that it comprises at least one step ai) of application to the surface of the skin to be treated, an effective amount of the composition for topical use (C2) as defined above.

By “improvement in the state of hydration of the epidermis of human skin”, is meant within the meaning of the present application, an increase in the rate of hydration of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin, measured and observed within a period of between seven days and 21 days after the application of said composition for topical use (C ₂ ), as defined above, on the surface of said stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin, greater than or equal to 25% relative to the hydration level measured and observed before the application of said composition for topical use (C ₂ ), on the surface of said stratum corneum of the epidermis of the human skin to be treated.

By "effective amount" is meant, in the definition of the process as defined above, an amount such as the state of hydration of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin obtained after application to the epidermis of the skin to be treated shows an increase in the rate of hydration of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of the treated human skin of more than 25% relative to the rate of hydration measured before the application of the topical composition (C ₂ ) such that defined above, on the surface of the epidermis of the skin to be treated, after a period of between seven days and twenty-one days after the application of said compositions (C ₂ ) on said surface of the epidermis to be treated.

The subject of the invention is also a composition (Ci) as defined above, for its use in a therapeutic treatment intended to reduce and / or eliminate and / or prevent chapped skin and / or scabs and / or crevices and / or atopic dermatitis and / or ichthyosis and / or dryness of the skin or mucous membranes, accompanying skin and / or mucosal pathologies such as eczema.

The composition (Ci) for its use in a therapeutic treatment as defined above can be combined with pharmaceutical active ingredients, in particular dermatological ingredients.

Bibliography:

(1): Chan et al., "A review of the pharmacological effects of Arctium lappa", Inflammopharmacol, 2011, 19: 245-254).

(2): Rasmussen, S., Parsons, A.J., Fraser, K., Xue, H., and Newman, J.A. (2008). "Metabolic profile of Lolium Flowers and Burdock Roots using a standardized LC-DADESI / MS profiling method", Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 56, 105 105-10114.

(3): Dornenburg, and Knorr (1995), "strategies secondary for improvement of metabolite production in plant cell cultures", Enzyme and Microbial Technology, 17, 674-684.

(4): Dinh, PTY, Roldan, M., Leung.S., And McManus, MT (2012), “Régulation of root growth by auxin and ethylene is influenced by phosphate supply in white clover (Trifollium repensL), Plant growth Regulation, 66, 179-180 (5): Badry, DV, and Vivanco, JM (2009), "Regulation and function of roots exsudatees", Plant Cell & Environment 32, 666-681.

(6): Baenas N., Garcia-Viguera G., and Moreno D.A. (2014), "Elicitation: a tool for enriching the bioactive composition of foods", Molecules 19, 13541-13563.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it.

Ai) - Preparation of a composition (Cia) according to the invention.

The plants of Burdock or Arctium lappa were previously obtained by germination of seeds for a period of sixty days under standard conditions, so as to reach a size of approximately ten to fifteen centimeters, then they are removed to be placed in conditions of aeroponic culture consisting in soaking the Burdock plants in a nutritive solution characterized by an electrical conductance of between 1.0 mS (millisiemens) and 1.2 mS and by a mass ratio N / P / K (Nitrogen / Phosphorus / Potassium ) provided by fertilizer from around 15/10/30; for six weeks at a temperature regulated at 20 ° C. This gives a root yield of 754 grams per square meter.

The fresh roots of the biomass thus obtained are removed and immersed for fifteen minutes at 25 ° C, at a rate of 1.0 kg of biomass per liter, in a bath comprising for 100% of its mass, 70% by mass of 1.2 -propanediol and 30% by mass of distilled water, the pH of which has previously been adjusted to 2.0 ± 0.2, by adding a 75% solution by mass of phosphoric acid.

The plants are then taken out of their exudation bath (Li), the roots are drained, then cut, then the remaining biomass is returned to macerate for forty-eight hours at 25 ° C, at a rate of 0.5 kg of biomass for 1 liter, in a new bath comprising a mixture comprising for 100% of its mass, 70% by mass of 1,2-propanediol and 30% by mass of distilled water whose pH has been previously adjusted to 2.0 ± 0, 2 by adding a 75% solution by mass of phosphoric acid.

At the end of this maceration phase, the biomass is separated from the maceration liquid (L ₂ ) and said liquid (L ₂ ) is filtered with a 50 micron pocket filter.

The liquids (Li) and (L ₂ ) are assembled then the mixture obtained added with

1,2-propanediol to adjust the mass content to 70%. The liquid (Ls) thus obtained filtered through a membrane of 1 micrometer so as to clarify it, then of 0.2 micrometer to obtain the expected composition (Cia).

A ₂ ) - Example of preparation of a comparative composition (Ccomp) ·

The seedlings from the same batch of seeds as that used to obtain the seedlings subsequently cultivated in aeroponics (example Ai) are used for a soil culture of said seedlings for a period of six weeks.

At the end of this period, the plants are removed, the fresh roots cleaned, cut and crushed, then the said ground product obtained is extracted according to a conventional liquid-solid extraction process (maceration, stirring, filtration) using '' a 1,2-propanediol / distilled water mixture of 70/30, at a temperature of 25 ° C, with a mass ratio of fresh roots / solvent medium of 0.5 kg of biomass per 1 liter of mixture 1.2 -propanediol and water; the pH value of the distilled water having been previously adjusted to 2.0 ± 0.2 by adding a 75% solution by mass of phosphoric acid.

At the end of this extraction phase, the biomass is separated from the liquid which is then filtered with a pocket filter of 50 micrometers, then with a membrane of 1 micrometer so as to clarify it, and finally under sterilizing filtration with a membrane at 0.2 micrometer, so as to reach the composition (Ccomp).

A3) - Analytical characterization of the composition (Cia) according to the invention and of the comparative composition (C _CO mp).

The characteristics of the compositions (Cia) (Ccomp) are given in the following Table 11:

Composition Characteristics Analytical method (Cia) (Ccomp) Appearance visual Yellow liquid Yellow liquid Content of 1,2-propanediol CPG (headspace) 71.4% 70.0% PH According to standard NFT 73-206 3.3 3.2 Dry extract in% by mass Oven at 105 ° C, 12 hours 0.21% 1.12% Water in% by mass According to standard NFT 73201 28.39% 28.88% Total content of compounds of formula (Ia), (Ib), (Here) and (LC ₂ ) (mg / gram of dry extract) UPLC-MS * 613.3 169.5

Table 11 * U P LC-M S: Device: Shimadzu Nexera X2; Column: Waters Xterra RP C18; 250x4.6 mm; Mobile phase (with gradient): Water + formic acid Acetonitrile;

UV detector (330 nm)

B) Demonstration of the moisturizing properties of the compositions (Cia) according to the invention and (C com _p ) comparative.

Bi) Demonstration of the protection against alteration of the barrier function of the skin, on reconstructed human epidermis.

B 1.1. Principle of the method

The Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus strains were cultivated in BHI (Brain Heart Infusion) and NB (Nutrient Broth) media, respectively, at 37 ° C., for 24 hours. Human reconstructed epidermis with a surface area of 0.5 cm ² , cultured at 37 ° C. and under 5% CO ₂ , were first colonized with the Staphylococcus epidermidis strain for 6 hours, then were colonized with the Staphylococcus aureus strain for 24 hours.

The composition (Cia) according to the invention (1% v / v) was added to the reconstructed human epidermis at the same time as the Staphylococcus epidermidis strain and then again with the Staphylococcus aureus strain.

The barrier function of the reconstructed human epidermis thus treated was evaluated:

- By measuring the transepithelial electrical resistance, or TEER (Trans

Epithelial Electrical Résistance), reconstructed human epidermis and

- By a histological evaluation of said human reconstructed epidermis, and more particularly by hematoxylin and eosin staining, and by a “score” of said staining.

As part of the histological evaluation, the effects on the barrier function of human reconstructed epidermis were evaluated by a histological score on hematoxylin and eosin staining which was assigned as follows:

= standard: no significant change in the reference morphology = slight: significant change in the stratum corneum = moderate: significant changes in the stratum corneum and the granular layer, reduction in keratohyaline and some necrotic cells = strong: significant changes in the basal layer with necrotic cells and intercellular holes and edemas = severe: loss of intercellular connection, detachment of the polycarbonate filter tissue, necrotic cells, absence of specific labeling.

A product is deemed to protect the barrier function of the human epidermis if the histological score is rated "standard" (score 0) or "mild" (Score 1).

The balance of the microbiota of the reconstructed human epidermis, with or without application of the composition (Cia), was evaluated by studying the formation of colony-type ultrastructures, biofilms by SEM.

B. 1.2. Results

B. 1.2.1 Results obtained on the protection of the barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis by measuring the transepithelial electrical resistance TEER (Trans Epithelial Electrical Resistance)

The TEER measurements carried out on reconstructed human epidermis, as a function of the associated treatments are shown in Table 7. A decrease in the transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) indicates a degradation of the barrier function of the epidermis and consequently constitutes one of the factors of dehydration of the skin and of the unsightly effects which this dehydration can cause. The difference Δ between the transepithelial electrical resistance of the surface of the reconstructed human epidermis after colonization and before colonization is also calculated. The percentage of protection is also calculated according to the formula:

% Protection ⁼ Rj Reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis + Staphylococcus aureus and treated with (C 1 A) 1% (v / v)] ~ Rj Reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis + Staphylococcus aureus without addition of (C1A) j / RjEpiderme reconstructed untreated (Control)] ~ Rj Reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis + Staphylococcus aureus without addition of (C1 A)]

Table 7

Untreated reconstructed human epidermis (Control) At = O Electrical resistance (in Ohm.cm ² ) Ro = 8073.33 +/- 1913.60 At t = 30 hours Electrical resistance (in Ohm.cm ² ) R’o = 6900.00 +/- 1489.80 Δο = R’o - Ro - 1173.33 Reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis Staphylococcus aureus without addition of the Composition (Cia) Before colonization (t = 0) Electrical resistance (in Ohm.cm ² ) Ri = 8094.44 +/- 1486.73 After colonization (t = 30 hours) Electrical resistance (in Ohm.cm ² ) Rj = 4726.11 +/- 2067.16 Δι = R’i - Ri - 3368.33 (100 / Δο) x (Δι-Δ ₀ ) 187% Reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis + Staphylococcus aureus and treated with Composition (Cia) 1% (v / v) (0.0136% of dry extract of the composition (Cia)) Before colonization Electrical resistance (in Ohm.cm ² ) R ₂ = 7647.22 +/- 1566.61 After colonization Electrical resistance (in Ohm.cm ² ) R ' ₂ = 5645.56 +/- 911.52 Δ2 ⁼ R'2 ~ R2 -2001.66 (100 / Δο) X (Δ2.Δ0) 71% % of protection [(R’2 - Rj) / (R’o - Rj)] 42%

When the reconstructed human epidermis is colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus, the difference in TEER measured before and after the start of said colonization is -3368.33 Ohm.cm ² , and presents an increase of 187% compared to human epidermis reconstructed not colonized and not treated (-1173.33 Ohm.cm ² ).

When the reconstructed human epidermis is brought into contact with the composition (Cia) at the same time as their colonization with Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus, the difference between the TEER measured before and after said colonization is -2001.66 Ohm.cm ² , which represents an increase of 71% compared to the reconstructed human epidermis not colonized and untreated (-1173.33 Ohm.cm ² ) and a protection of 42% compared to the reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus.

As a result, the application to the skin of a composition comprising the Composition (Cia) makes it possible to prevent the degradation of the barrier function of the epidermis of the skin, before the latter is subjected to the action of bacteria. known for their degrading effects on the barrier function of said epidermis of the skin.

B. 1.2.2 Results obtained on the protection of the barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis by histological evaluation of said reconstructed human epidermis, by hematoxylin and eosin staining.

The hematoxylin and eosin staining of the epidermis was evaluated by assigning a “score” as described above, and the results are shown in Table 8 below:

Table 8

Histological score

Untreated reconstructed human epidermis (Control); no significant change vs reference morphology

Human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis + Staphylococcus aureus without addition of the composition (Cia); modification of the structure of the viable epidermis with more intercellular spaces and groupings of cells.

Reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis + Staphylococcus aureus and treated with Composition (Cia) 1% (v / v) (0.0136% of dry extract due to the plant of the composition (Cia)); reduction of damage, in particular at the basal and stratum corneum level where a more compact lamellar structure is observed

When the reconstructed human epidermis was brought into contact with the Composition (Cia) at the same time as their colonization with Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus, the histological score was evaluated at a level of 1, showing a reduction in damage, in particularly at the basal and stratum corneum level where a more compact lamellar structure is observed.

As a result, the application to the skin of a composition comprising the Composition (Cia) makes it possible to prevent the degradation of tissue cohesion and therefore of the barrier function of the epidermis in the face of an invasion of the transient flora.

In addition, the colonization profile by the two bacteria (Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus) was evaluated by scanned electron microscopy ("Scanning electron microscopy" or "SEM", Zeiss Sigma Electron Microscope).

When the reconstructed human epidermis has been colonized by only Staphylococcus epidermidis the bacterium is present homogeneously on the surface of the reconstructed human epidermis, forming large aggregates and developing a biofilm characterized by filamentous polysaccharide structures observed with a magnification of x10000 of the electronic microscope.

When the reconstructed human epidermis has been colonized by Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus, we observe the appearance of several spherical aggregates of Staphylococcus aureus on the surface of the reconstructed human epidermis, while a film of Staphylococcus epidermidis remains visible on the surface of said epidermis.

We also observe the presence of large aggregates of Staphylococcus aureus, with a magnification of x10000 of the electron microscope, forming a three-dimensional structure, thus indicating an early stage of development of a biofilm on the surface of the epidermis.

After application to the skin of a composition comprising the Composition (Cia), the spherical aggregates of Staphylococcus aureus are no longer present, thus signifying that the addition of the Composition (Cia) makes it possible to prevent adhesion of the bacteria to the surface of the epidermis and the formation of the biofilm of Staphylococcus aureus. The biofilm of Staphylococcus epidermidis is still observed on the surface of the epidermis.

These observations show that the Composition (Cia) makes it possible to reduce the adhesion and therefore the formation of biofilms of pathogenic opportunistic bacteria, such as for example Staphylococcus aureus, without altering the presence of commensal bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis.

B. 1.3. conclusions

The combination of the measurement of transepithelial electrical resistance, and of the histological evaluation of human reconstructed epidermis, before colonization by a commensal bacteria of the skin flora, then by a pathogenic bacterium, constitutes a model making it possible to study the alteration of the barrier function and balance of the microbiota of said epidermis, and the incidence of prior treatments with compositions or extracts or complex formulations.

All the results and observations collected in sections B. 1.2.1 and B.1.2.2 show that the composition (Cia) makes it possible to prevent the degradation of the barrier function of the epidermis of human skin and therefore prevent dehydration of the epidermis of human skin in a model where it is colonized by a commensal bacteria from the skin flora, then by a pathogenic bacteria, and its associated unsightly effects, for example dry, rough skin, which can be accompanied by inflammation and itching when associated with the presence of pathogenic bacteria.

B ₂ ) Demonstration of the improvement of the barrier function of the skin, by increasing keratinocyte differentiation

B.2.1 Principle of the method

The evolution of the differentiation of the keratinocytes of the epidermis constitutes a means of showing the effect of a treatment of said epidermis on the evolution of the barrier function of the epidermis of human skin, and consequently on the evolution the state of hydration of the epidermis of human skin.

For this, normal human keratinocytes were cultured at 37 ° C and 5% CO2. After a period of 4 days, they were treated with the products whose action we want to evaluate.

After 72 hours of additional culture at 37 ° C and 5% CO ₂ with the test products, the cell mats were rinsed, dried and then fixed with glacial methanol. Filaggrin, a marker for keratinocyte differentiation, was detected and quantified by fluorescent immunostaining with a primary anti-filaggrin antibody and a secondary fluorescent antibody to reveal the latter. The nuclei were detected and quantified by labeling with Hoechst, a fluorescent dye which binds to DNA and therefore marks the nuclei. This last marking was carried out to standardize the results previously obtained on filaggrin.

B. 2.2 Results

The filaggrin measurements carried out on keratinocytes cultured under different conditions, and in particular in the presence of the Composition (Cia) according to the invention and in the presence of the comparative Composition (Cicom), are recorded in Table 9.

An increase in the filaggrin (labeling area) / nuclei (labeling area) ratio indicates an increase in the differentiation of the keratinocytes of the epidermis, and consequently a reinforcement of the barrier effect of the epidermis, which constitutes one of the factors of reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin. An increase in keratinocyte differentiation makes it possible to reinforce the barrier effect of the human epidermis, and consequently to reduce the unsightly effects that can cause dehydration of human skin.

Table 9:

Control medium (culture medium in the absence of treatment composition) Filaggrin (marking area) / nuclei (marking area) % stimulation vs control 0.0034 +/- 0.0003 - Medium treated with positive reference CaCh 1mMole / L Filaggrin (marking area) / nuclei (marking area) % stimulation vs control 0.0245 +/- 0.0045 621 *

Medium treated with Composition (Cia) 0.08% by mass

Filaggrin (marking area) / nuclei (marking area) % stimulation vs control 0.0254 +/- 0.0030 648 Medium treated with Composition (Cicom _P ) 0.08% by mass Filaggrin (marking area) / nuclei (marking area) % stimulation vs Composition (Cia) 0.0144 +/- 0.0059 323p = 0.06

B. 2.3. conclusions

The application of the Composition (Cia) according to the invention makes it possible to reach a value of filaggrin / core ratio of 0.0254, against 0.0144 when the Composition (Cia) 10 is replaced by the Composition (Cicom _P ) . Thus, the application of the Composition (Cia) according to the invention makes it possible to increase by 648% the production of filaggrin compared to the control (untreated keratinocytes) while the comparative Composition (Cicomp) does not allow to increase the production of filaggrin than 323%.

The Composition (Cia) according to the invention makes it possible to increase keratinocyte differentiation, and consequently to reinforce the barrier effect of the epidermis, and consequently to promote the state of hydration of said human epidermis.

B3) Effect of the Composition (Cia) according to the invention on the hydration rate of the skin.

B.3.1. Principle of the method

The rate of skin hydration is determined by evaluating the electrical properties of the skin, such as impedance, resistance and capacitance, since these dielectric parameters measured on the surface of the skin vary with the amount of water. contained in the stratum corneum.

The principle adopted and used in the context of this patent application is based on the measurement of the variation of the dielectric capacitance of the surface of the skin. Indeed, like any material or any biological matrix, the stratum corneum can be characterized by its average capacitance value; this dielectric property varies with the amount of water it contains.

B. 3.2 Equipment

The skin hydration level is measured using the CM825 ™ model corneometer, sold by Courage & Khasaka, equipped with a sensor made up of two metal electrodes. When the corneometer is electrically powered, it allows an electric field to be applied through the stratum corneum and to measure the capacitance corresponding to the state of the skin on which the electric field has been applied.

B. 3.3 Experimental protocol

The study of the hydrating effect of the compositions to be tested was carried out on a group of twenty-one volunteers, and consisted in applying twice a day the compositions to be evaluated, either the placebo (here called PLAC), or the composition. on trial (here named COMP), or leaving an untreated area (here named NT), for 21 days. The measurements of the skin hydration level measured using the kneometer were carried out before the application of the compositions (OJ), after a period of seven days following the application of the compositions to be tested on the skin (J7), and after a period of twenty-one days following the application of the compositions to be tested on the skin (D21).

The characteristics of the group of volunteers were as follows:

- women aged 18 to 48,

- with an average age of 35,

- and from phototype II to IV

- and with very dry skin in the legs (<30 (au) by corneometry at inclusion in the study).

B. 3.4 Expression of results

Hydration rate measurements are expressed in arbitrary units (AU).

An increase in the values (expressed in au) indicates an increase in the water content of the stratum corneum, thus characterizing a hydrating effect.

The values measured with the Corneometer at each of the measurement times are recorded, and the variations between OJ and J7, then between OJ and J21 are expressed as a percentage relative to the value measured at OJ, for each composition to be evaluated. We thus define:

T (jo): The average value of the hydration rate, expressed in arbitrary units (ua), measured before the application of the compositions to be tested, on the area to be treated, and on the untreated area;

T (j7): The average value of the hydration rate, expressed in arbitrary units (ua), measured seven days after the application of the compositions to be tested to the treated area, and to the untreated area;

T (j2i): The average value of the hydration rate, expressed in arbitrary units (ua), measured twenty-one days after the application of the compositions to be tested to the treated area, and to the untreated area;

We calculate Δγ, percentage increase in hydration rate after seven days of treatment:

For the placebo:

Δγ = 100 X [(T (J7) - T (J0)) pLAC - (T (J7) - T (J0)) nt] / [(T (J0)) pLAC - (T (J7) - T (J0 )) y]

For the composition under test:

Δ7 = 100 X [T (J7) - T (J0)) cOMP - (T (J7) - T (J0)) nt] / [(T (J0)) cOMP - (T (J7) - T (J0) ) y]

We also calculate Δ21, percentage increase in hydration rate after 21 days of treatment:

For the placebo:

Δ21 = 100 X [(T (J21) - T (J0)) pLAC - (T (J21) - T (J0)) nt] / [(T (J0)) pLAC ~ (T (J21) - T (J0 )) y]

For the composition under test:

Δ21 = 100 X [(T (J21) - T (J0)) cOMP - (T (J21) - T (J0)) nt] / [(T (J0)) cOMP - (T (J21) - T (J0 )) y]

We also calculate the effect between the products:

% vs placebo on D7 =

100 X (T (J7) - T (J0)) cOMP - (T (J7) - T (J0)) pLAc] / [(T (J7) - T (J0)) pLAC ~ (T (J7) - T (D0)) nt]% vs placebo on D21 =

100 X [(T (J21) - T (J0)) cOMP - (T (J21) - T (J0)) pLAc] / [(T (J21) - T (J0)) pLAC ~ (T (J21) - T (D0)) y]

B. 3.5 Results achieved

The average measurements of the hydration level which were obtained for the application of the compositions tested are indicated in table 10 below:

Table 10

Product δ ₇ Δ ₂ ι Placebo + 18.3% + 22.2% Formula containing the composition (Cia) at 1% by mass + 28.8% + 37.9%

The comparisons of the hydration levels obtained between the placebo and the test composition on D7 and D21 are shown in Table 11 below:

Table 11

% vs placebo Product at D7 at D21 Formula containing the composition (Cia) 1% by mass + 58% + 56%

B.3.6 Analysis of results

After 7 days following the application of the compositions tested, the change in the average of the hydration rates measured Δ ₇ , shows that the increase in the hydration rate is 28.8% for the composition (Cia) according to l invention versus 18.8% for the placebo composition. The increase in the hydration rate of the composition (Cia) according to the invention is 58% versus placebo.

After 21 days following the application of the compositions tested, the change in the average of the hydration rates measured Δ21, shows that the increase in the hydration rate is 37.9% for the composition (Cia) according to the invention versus 22.2% for the placebo composition. The increase in the hydration rate of the composition (Cia) according to the invention is 56% versus placebo.

As a result, the composition (Cia) according to the invention makes it possible to improve the hydration rate of the human epidermis.

B.4 Analysis

All the results obtained in section B.3 of the present application, demonstrate that the Composition (Cia) according to the invention provides a moisturizing effect on the epidermis of human skin, both by its role in strengthening the barrier effect of the epidermis (protection against degradation, and increase) only by its action on increasing the hydration rate of the epidermis of human skin.

C) Formulations

In the following formulas, the percentages are expressed by weight of the formulation.

C.1) - Face cleansing fluid

Formula

Composition (Cia) 10.00%

Methyl paraben 0.15%

Phenoxyethanol 0.80%

SEPICALM ™ S 1.00%

Perfume / Fragrance 0.10% Water qs 100.00%

Procedure: Mix the different ingredients in water with magnetic stirring in the order indicated, and adjust the pH to around 7.

C.2) - Hair and body shampoo for children

Formula

A Composition (Cia) 15.00%

PROTEOL ™ APL 5.00%

SEPICIDE ™ HB 0.50%

Perfume / Fragrance 0.10%

B Water 20.00%

Capigel ™ 98 3.50% C Water qs 100.00% SEPICIDE CI ™ 0.30% Dye qs Welded qs pH = 7.2 Procedure: Mix the composition (E4) with PROTEOL ™ APL, and

SEPICIDE ™ HB (Phase A). Dilute CAPIGEL ™ 98 in part of the water and add it to phase A previously obtained (Phase B). Add the rest of the water to phase B, then SEPICIDE ™ CI and the dye. Adjust the pH of the mixture to around 7.2 with sodium hydroxide.

C.3) - Makeup remover wipes

Formula

A Composition (Cia) 3.00%

B SEPICIDE ™ HB2 0.50%

C SEPICALM ™ VG 0.50%

Perfume / Fragrance 0.05% Water Q.S. 100.00%

Procedure: Mix the ingredients of phase B as well as those of phase C in phase A until the solution is clear. Add phase D.

C.4) - Soft foaming gel

Formula

A Composition (Cia) PROTEOL ™ APL 8.50% 3.00% EUXYL ™ PE9010 1.00% Perfume / Fragrance Beautiful 0.10% Q.S. 100.00% Lactic acid Q.S. pH = 6.0

Procedure: Solubilize the fragrance and the preservative EUXYL ™ PE 9010 in the mixture composed of composition E4 and PROTEOL ™ APL (phase A). Add water and adjust the pH to about 6.0 with lactic acid.

C.5) - Frequent use shampoo

Formula

A Composition (Cia) PROTEOL ™ OAT 12.80% 5.00% EUXYL ™ PE 9010 1.00% Perfume / Fragrance Water Q.S. 0.30% 100.00% B MONTALINE ™ C40 8.50% Lactic acid Procedure: mix all the ingredients Q.S. pH = 6.0 of phase A and after

homogenization, add MONTALINE ™ C40 and adjust the pH to about 6.0 using lactic acid.

C.6 Ultra-soft baby shampoo

Formula

A Composition (Cia) Amisoft ™ CS-11 10.00% 4.00% Perfume / Fragrance SEPICIDE ™ HB 0.10% 0.30% SEPICIDE CI ™ 0.20% Water Q.S. 100.00% Beautiful 20.00% CAPIGEL ™ 98 3.50% tromethamine Q.S. pH = 7.2

Procedure: Mix all the ingredients of phase A in the order indicated until a clear phase A is obtained. Separately, add the CAPIGEL ™ 98 in water, then add this phase B thus prepared in phase A and adjust the pH to 7.2 using tromethamine.

C.7 Baby cleansing milk

Formula

AT Simulsol ™ 165 2.00% Montanov ™ 202 1.00% LANOL ™ 99 3.00% dimethicone 1.00% isohexadecane 3.00% B Water Q.S. 100.00% VS SEPIPLUS ™ 400 0.30% D Composition (Cia) 6.35% E SEPICIDE ™ HB 0.30% DMDM Hydantoin 0.20% Perfume / Fragrance 0.10%

Procedure: Heat phases A and B made up separately by mixing the different constituents. Add phase C into the hot fatty phase and make the emulsion by pouring the aqueous phase; homogenize for a few minutes with vigorous stirring (using a rotor / stator turbine). Then add phase D into the hot emulsion and cool the emulsion with moderate stirring until it returns to room temperature. Add phase E at 40 ° C.

C.8 Powdered cleansing lotion for sensitive skin

Formula

AT LIPACIDE ™ C8G 0.95% Methyl paraben 0.10% Ethyl paraben 0.024% Propyl paraben 0.0119% Butyl paraben 0.024% Isobutyl paraben 0.0119% Water 20.00% Disodium EDTA 0.10% triethanolamine 1.38% B Composition (Cia) 1.80%

Perfume / Fragrance 0.10%

C SEPICALM ™ S 0.28%

Water Q.S. 100.00%

Lactic acid Q.S. pH = 5.2

D MICRQPEARL ™ M310 5.00%

Procedure: Solubilize the ingredients of phase A in water at 80 ° C. Separately dissolve the perfume in the composition (E ₄ ) to prepare phase B. Add the cooled phase A to phase B, then introduce the SEPICALM ™ S and the additional water. Check the final pH and possibly adjust it to around 5.2. Then add the MICROPEARL ™ M310.

C.9 Children's shower gel

Formula

AT Water 56.06% SEPIMAX Zen ™ 3.00% SEPIPLUS ™ S 0.80% B Proteol ™ OAT 20.80% QRAM IX ™ NS 10 9.30% AMONYL ™ 265 BA 5.10% VS Composition (Cia) 2.00% Glyceryl Glucoside 1.00% Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexyl Glycerin 1.00% Perfume / Fragrance 0.90% Dye 0.04%

Procedure: disperse SEPIMAX ™ ZEN in water and shake using a mechanical stirrer equipped with a deflocculator, a counter-helix and a pale anchor type, until obtaining a perfectly smooth gel. Add the SEPIPLUS ™ S then stir until the mixture is homogeneous. Then add the ingredients of phase B, homogenize and add the additives of phase C individually. Adjust the pH to

6.0-6.5. C.10 BB Cream Formula A EASYNOV ™ 2.30% LANOL ™ 99 1.00% SEPIMAT ™ H10W 1.00% Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00%

B Cyclomethicone Triethoxycaprylsilane & Alumina-silane & Titanium Oxide Iron Oxide red & Triethoxycaprylsilane Iron Oxide yellow & Triethoxycaprylsilane Iron Oxide black & Triethoxycaprylsilane Perfume / Fragrance C Water 6.00% 8.00% 0.24% 0.66% 0.09% 0.10% qs 100% Sepinov ™ EMT10 1.20% D Composition (Cia) SEPITONIC ™ M3 2.00% 1.00% Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexyl Glycerin 1.00%

Procedure: Prepare phase B by mixing the various ingredients and homogenize using a mixer fitted with a rotor-sator system at a speed of rotation of 4500 rpm, for a period of 6 minutes. Prepare phase C by adding SEPINOV ™ EMT10 to the water and glycerol mixture and homogenize using a mixer fitted with a rotor-sator system at a speed of rotation of 4000 rpm for 4 minutes. Add phases A and B to phase C, and stir the resulting mixture using a mechanical stirrer fitted with an anchor-type paddle, at a speed of 30 revolutions per minute for 2 minutes, then at a speed 50 rpm for 20 minutes. Add the components of phase 5 one by one and shake at a speed of 50 revolutions per minute for 25 minutes.

C.11 High Protection SPH Sun Spray greater than 30

Formula

A MONTANOV ™ L 1.00% MONTANOV ™ 82 1.00% C12-15 Alkylbenzoate dimethicone 17.00% 3.00% octocrylene Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxypenyl Triazine tocopherol Beautiful 6.00% 6.00% 3.00% 0.05% qs 100% C SIMULGEL ™ INS 100 0.50% cyclodimethicone D Composition (Cia) Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexyl Glycerin 5.00% 3.00% 1.00%

Perfume / Fragrance

E Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl

T etramethylbutylphenol

Citric acid 25%

0.20%

10.00% qs pH = 5

SEPICALM ™ S: Mixture of N-cocoyl amino acids, sarcosine, potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate as described in WO 98/09611.

PROTEOL ™ APL: Mixture of sodium salts of N-cocoyl amino acids, obtained by acylation of the amino acids characteristic of apple juice;

SEPICIDE ™ HB: Mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative.

CAPIGEL ™ 98: Acrylate copolymer;

SEPICIDE ™ CI: Imidazoline urea, is a preservative;

SEPICIDE ™ HB: Mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and isobutylparaben, is a preservative;

SEPICALM ™ VG: Mixture of N-palmitoyl proline in the form of sodium salt and Nymphea Alba flower extract;

EUXYL ™ PE9010: Mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethyl hexyl glycerine;

PROTEOL ™ OAT: Mixture of N-lauryl amino acids obtained by total hydrolysis of oat protein as described in WO 94/26694;

MONTALINE ™ C40: Cocamidopropyl betainamide chloride salt of Monoethanolamine.

AMISOFT ™ CS-11: Sodium salt of N-cocoyl glutamate;

SIMULSOL ™ 165: Mixture of PEG-100 stearate and glycerol stearate;

MONTANOV ™ 202 (arachydilic alcohol, behenic alcohol and arachidyl glucoside), is a self-emulsifying composition such as those described in EP 0 977 626; LANOL ™ 99: Isononyl isononoate;

SEPIPLUS ™ 400: Self-reversible reverse latex of polyacrylates in polyisobutene and comprising polysorbate 20, as described in WO2005 / 040230;

LIPACIDE ™ C8G: Capryloyl glycine sold by the company SEPPIC; MICROPEARL ™ M310: Crosslinked polymethylmethacrylate polymer in powder form and used as a texture modifier;

SEPIMAX ™ Zen (INCI name: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6): Thickening polymer in the form of a powder;

SEPIPLUS ™ S (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene & PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Cononut Ether): Self-reversible reverse latex;

AMONYL ™ 265 BA (INCI name: Cocobetaine): Amphoteric foaming surfactant; SEPINOV ™ EMT10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer): Thickening copolymer in the form of a powder;

EASYNOV ™ (INCI name: Octyldodecanol and Octyldodecyl Xyloside and PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate): Emulsifying agent with lipophilic tendency;

SEPIMAT ™ H10 FW (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer and Squalane): Polymer used as texture agent;

SEPITONIC ™ M3 (INCI name: Magnesium Aspartate and Zinc Gluconate and Copper Gluconate): Mixture used as an anti-radical and energizing agent for cells; MONTANOV ™ L (INCI name: C14-22 Alcohols and C12-20 Alkylglucoside): Emulsifying agent;

MONTANOV ™ 82 (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol and Coco-glucoside): Emulsifying agent;

SIMULGEL ™ INS100 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloydimethyl Taurate Copolymer and isohexadecane and Polysorbate 60): Polymeric thickening agent;

Claims (8)

1. Composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass: a) - From 60.0% by mass to 75.0% by mass of an organic solvent (SOi) chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3 -butanediol, 1,2butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, or a mixture of these compounds; b) - From 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass of a composition (ES) comprising a mass quantity xi, expressed in mass equivalent of the acid 1-O- (2-caféoyl) maloyl-3,5 -O-dicaféoyl quinique, greater than or equal to 200 mg / g of at least one compound of general formula (I):

in which Qi, Q2, Q3, CU and Qs represent, independently of each other, the hydroxyl radical or a salt thereof or a radical chosen from: (i) - The coffeeoyl radical of formula (II):

(ii) - The maloyl radical of formula (Ilia) or (IlIb):

⁰ (Ilia) ° ^0H (iii) - The coffeeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or (IVb): (Hlb);

(IVb) (iv) - The maloyl caféoyl radical of formula (Va), (Vb), (Vc) or (Vd),

it being understood that at least one of these radicals Qi, Q ₂ , Q ₃ , CU and CUne represents neither the radical -OH; nor one of its salts; and 10 c) - From 20.0% by mass to 35.0% by mass of water. 2. Composition (Ci) as defined in claim 1 characterized in that said composition (ES) comprises: - At least one compound of formula (la) corresponding to formula (I) for which Qi represents the maloyl radical of formula (Ilia) or of formula (Illb) and Qset Q4 and Qs identical, each represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula ( II); - A compound of formula (Ib) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 represents the coffeeoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb), Q3 and Qs each represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula (II) and Q4 represents the hydroxyl radical, and - At least one compound of formula (le) chosen from: - The compound of formula (Here) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 and Qs each represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula (II), Q3 represents the hydroxyl radical and Q4 represents the coffeeoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb); and - The compound of formula (lc ₂ ) corresponding to formula (I) for which Q1 and Q4 represent the coffeeoyl radical of formula (II), Q3 represents the hydroxyl radical and Qs represents the coffeeoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb). 3. Composition (Ci) as defined in any one of claims 1 or 2 characterized in that the organic solvent (SO1) is Ie1,2-propanediol. 4. Process for the preparation of the composition (Ci) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising the following successive steps: - A step a) of cultivation in above-ground conditions of the Arctium lappa plant supplied with a nutritive solution, so as to obtain a biomass (BM1); A step b) of immersion of the roots of said biomass (BM1) obtained in step a) previous in a medium (Si), so that the biomass ratio (BMi) / mixture (Si) is between 0.5 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L, said medium (Si) comprising for 100 % of its own mass, from 20% to 35% by mass of water, the pH of which has been adjusted to a value between 1.5 and 3.5 by adding a protic acid chosen from sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid, and from 65% to 80% by mass of an organic solvent (SO1) chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8octanediol or a mixture of these diols; - A step c) of separation of the roots from the biomass at the end of the treatment defined in step b), to isolate a liquid phase (L1); - A step d) of immersion of the roots of said biomass (BM2) from step ç) in said medium (Si); in a biomass ratio (BlVy / mixture (Si) of between 0.1 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L; - A step e) of separation of said biomass (BM2) at the end of the treatment defined in step d), to isolate a liquid phase (L2), - A step f) of filtration of said liquid phase (L3) obtained in step d), to isolate a liquid liquid phase (L3), - A step g) of mixing said liquid phases (L1) and (L3), then if necessary adding water and / or said organic solvent (SO1), so as to obtain the expected composition (Ci). 5. Use of the composition (Ci) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3 as cosmetic active agent. 6. Cosmetic formulation (C2) for topical use comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and an effective amount of the composition (Ci) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4. 7. Method for improving the hydration state of the epidermis of human skin, characterized in that it comprises at least one step ai) of application to the surface of the skin to be treated, of an effective amount of the composition for topical use (C2) as defined in claim 6. 8. Composition (Ci) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 for its use in a therapeutic treatment intended to reduce and / or eliminate and / or prevent chapped skin and / or scabs and / or crevices and / or atopic dermatitis and / or ichthyosis and / or dryness of the skin or mucous membranes, accompanying skin and / or mucosal pathologies such as eczema.