FR3079143A1 - LIQUID RED COMPOSITION FLUID MATTE FLUID - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a room temperature (25 ° C) fluid cosmetic composition comprising at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in an oil present in a dry matter content of between 10% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one coloring agent, optionally a second oil, the total oil content being greater than or equal to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprising at least one non-volatile oil. The invention also relates to a process for preparing said composition and the use of this composition for the makeup or care of the skin or lips.

Description

MATT-LIKE FLUID LIPSTICK COMPOSITION

Technical field of the invention

The invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, and more particularly fluid cosmetic compositions with a matt and intense color appearance such as lipsticks that are fluid at room temperature, mat and intense.

Technical background

The use of lipsticks as a means of coloring the lips has grown rapidly, so that lipsticks are now widely used beauty products. A cosmetically acceptable lipstick must have satisfactory properties in terms of application: it must be slippery on application, spread easily, and allow a thin or thick deposit to be obtained according to the choice of the user. It must also have satisfactory properties in terms of makeup effect of the deposit on the lips, such as for example the color homogeneity, the intensity of the color, the dullness, the color fastness and the dullness. , the absence of migration of the deposit, preferably without developing tights.

A lipstick should not only have the qualities mentioned above, but above all give the lips a smooth and creamy feeling and protect them from drying out or cracking. It is particularly difficult to obtain such a smooth and creamy sensation using lipsticks having a reduced luster or gloss, namely a matt appearance.

Commonly, matte lipsticks contain significant amounts of volatile oils in order to obtain a matte appearance and to avoid the migration of makeup by the evaporation of volatile oils after application to the lips. However, the use of these volatile oils leads to a feeling of discomfort after application and to drying of the lips of the user.

Also commonly, matte lipsticks contain various fillers such as clays or silicas in order to obtain a matt appearance and to avoid the migration of makeup by their gelation properties of oils. However, the use of clays and silicas leads to a hard composition which always becomes drier and hard as the content of solid substances increases. Furthermore, when applying such a matte lipstick to the lips, a feeling of dryness is obtained.

Another common way to avoid the migration of lipsticks and in particular fluid lipsticks is to use more viscous oils such as polybutenes. However, this leads to obtaining shiny compositions - which is not sought here and sticky, which are not appreciated by the users.

This therefore results in a certain need for compositions, in particular lipsticks which ensure a creamy application while allowing a matt appearance and which do not migrate, which until now has been inseparable from a dry or sticky texture.

The first object of the present invention is to provide a composition of lipstick allowing a fine and homogeneous deposit having a matt and intense color appearance, which does not migrate and having a homogeneous and light texture and which remains so over time. This composition also allows the possibility of obtaining a buildable effect, that is to say the possibility for the user to modulate the transparency, the coverage, the intensity of the deposit according to the number of passages of the composition on the surface of the lips, and this without degrading the properties of non-migration, non-stickiness, homogeneity of the deposit and resistance of the mattness and the color of the deposit obtained.

The present invention is characterized in that the matt cosmetic composition which is fluid at room temperature (25 ° C.) comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in an oil present in a dry matter content of between 10% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one coloring agent, optionally a second oil, the total oil content being greater than or equal to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprising at least one non-volatile oil.

By fluid is meant a creamy or even pasty texture, in particular a composition which is not solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), and the characteristics of which can be evaluated by penetrometry measurements.

Organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in an oil

By conveyed is meant in the sense of the invention that the elastomer is provided in the composition in a predispersed form in at least one first oil. More particularly, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in the first oil, stable for at least 24 hours at 20 ° C. Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one first oil. In particular, a silicone elastomer powder suspended in at least one first oil is not considered, within the meaning of the invention, as an organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least one first oil.

By organopolysiloxane elastomer or silicone elastomer is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a capacity limited to extension and contraction. This material is able to regain its original shape after stretching.

It is more particularly a crosslinked silicone elastomer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in an oil used in the context of the present application is in the form of non-spherical particles of organopolysiloxane elastomer dispersed in said oil.

The oil or oils will be described in detail later.

The elastomer present in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from non-emulsifying or emulsifying elastomers.

Non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer

The term non-emulsifier defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), or polyglyceryl units.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl endings and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl endings and of a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon , especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

The compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with compound (B). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, cyclic dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C [2] -C [4]); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. Organopolysiloxane (B) can have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) can have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, the diméthylsiloxaneméthylphénylsiloxane copolymers dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, the diméthylsiloxanediphénylsiloxaneméthylvinylsiloxane copolymers dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, the diméthylsiloxaneméthylvinylsiloxane copolymers trimethylsiloxy endings, the copolymers diméthylsiloxaneméthylphénylsiloxane -methylvinylsiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst. According to another variant, the compound (B) can be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound, having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example in C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located in any position of the molecule but are preferably located at the ends. By way of example, mention may be made of hexadiene, and in particular 1,5-hexadiene.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for the compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to be ethylenic unsaturation in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and ( B).

As non-emulsifying elastomers, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names DOWSIL Silicone Elastomer Blend such as those carried in a non-volatile oil sold under the name DOWSIL 9041 and DOWSIL EL-9241 DM by the company Dow Chemical Company, as well than those carried in a volatile oil sold under the name DOWSIL EL-8040 ID, DOWSIL EL-9140 DM, DOWSIL EL-9240 DM, DOWSIL EL-9048, DOWSIL 9040, DOWSIL 9045, DOWSIL FB-9586, DOWSIL 9546 Dow Chemical Company.

We can still use those sold under the names, KSG-15, KSG-1510, USG-103, USG-106, KSG-16, KSG-1610, KSG-18A, KSG-19, KSG-016F, KSG-41A, KSG-42A, KSG-43, KSG-44, KSG-042Z, KSG-045Z, KSG048Z by the company Shin Etsu;

It is also possible to use those carried in a non-volatile or low-volatile oil sold under the names Gransil DM-10, Gransil DMAM, Gransil DMG-20, Gransil DMG-6, Gransil PM by the company Grant Industries; or those carried in a mixture of oils sold under the names Gransil OHS-5, Gransil PS-5 by the company Grant Industries; or those carried in a volatile oil sold under the names GI CD-10, GI CD-11, Gransil DMG-2, Gransil DMG-3, Gransil GCM-5, Gransil GTS, Gransil GVL, Gransil GVL-HV, Gransil IDS- 5, Gransil MLB, Gransil PC12, Gransil PC-12P, Gransil RPS, Gransil RPS-D6, GI CD-965, Gransil DM-5, Gransil DMCM-5, Gransil DMDM-25, Gransil DMDM-35, Gransil DMID, Gransil DMTS, Gransil GAM by the company Grant Industries;

It is also possible to use those sold under the names VELVESIL GELS such as Velvesil 125 silicone and SFE 839 from the company Momentive Performance Materials.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least one first oil, a non-emulsifying elastomer, preferably conveyed in a non-volatile oil. Use may in particular be made of the compounds sold under the name Dowsil9041 and Dowsil EL9241DM by the company Dow Chemical Company.

Emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in an oil, an emulsifying elastomer.

By emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is meant an organopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene (polyoxyethylenated, polyoxypropylene) organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer can be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer obtainable by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylenate having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (Al) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B1) of polyoxyalkylenated having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (Cl) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in US Patents 5,236,986 and US 5,412,004.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimetylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (Al) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl , stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl,

3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

Compound (A1) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, cyclic dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxanemethylhydroglycosiloxylmethylsiloxosiloxylmethylsiloxylmilosiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylsiloxymiloxylemethylmethylhydroxylosiloxylmethylmethylhydroxyloxylsiloxane compounds.

Compound (Cl) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support. Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers can be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenates having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.

Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in US Patents 5,236,986, US 5,412,004, US 5,837,793, US 5 81 1,487.

As polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers, those sold under the names KSG-210, KSG-240, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-330, KSG-340, KSG-320Z, KSG-320Z can be used. 360Z, KSG38OZ by the company Shin Etsu, it is also possible to use those marketed under the names DOWSIL 9011 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND and DOWSIL EL-7040 HYDRO ELASTOMER BLEND by the company Dow Chemical Company.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer can also be chosen from polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according to the invention is an organopolysiloxane elastomer obtainable by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B2) of glycerolated compounds having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C2) of platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerolated compound with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the basic reagent for the formation of an organopolysiloxane elastomer and crosslinking is carried out by the addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).

The compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

The compound (A2) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

The compound (A2) can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B2).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A2) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl , stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

Compound (A2) may thus be selected from trimethylsiloxy methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes terminations, the terminations trimethylsiloxy diméthylsiloxaneméthylhydrogénosiloxane copolymers, cyclic copolymers diméthylsiloxaneméthylhydrogénosiloxane, the diméthylsiloxaneméthylhydrogénosiloxanelaurylméthylsiloxane copolymers trimethylsiloxy endings.

The compound (B2) can be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B '):

C _m H _2m _ ₁ -O- [Gly] [n] -C [m] H2m-l (B ') in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50, preferably ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10, and preferably ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular equal to 3; Gly denotes;

-CH [2] -CH (OH) -CH [2] -O- or -CH [2] -CH (CH [2] OH) -O- Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound ( B2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A2) is at least 4.

It is advantageous for the compound (A2) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A2) and the total amount of all the groups to be ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B2) is in the range from 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A2) and ( B2).

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer is conveyed in the form of a gel in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

As polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers, those sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, KSG-840, KSG-820Z, KSG-850Z by the company Shin Etsu can be used.

Preferably, the silicone elastomer conveyed in at least one first oil is non-emulsifying, that is to say devoid of hydrophilic chain, and in particular devoid of polyoxyalkylenated units and of polyglyceryl units.

Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer considered according to the invention is chosen from non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers.

More particularly, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon , especially in the presence of platinum catalyst (C).

The composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer content expressed as dry matter of between 10% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and which, when it is introduced in an amount of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble up to less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into water.

In the context of the present invention, the term “oil” does not include lipophilic fats which are capable of undergoing a reversible liquid / solid change and have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, but which are different from the waxes by the fact that they contain, at a temperature of 23 ° C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. A compound of this type is in particular a mixture of sterol esters, such as the mixture of cholesterol and lanosterol ester available from the manufacturer CRODA under the trade name Super Sterol Ester®.

Non-volatile oil

The composition according to the invention comprises, at least one non-volatile oil.

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which has a boiling point generally greater than 300 ° C. under 760 mm of Hg (101325 Pa) and which has little or no vapor pressure.

The non-volatile oils can in particular be chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and their mixtures.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

As non-volatile silicone oil, mention may especially be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxane whose alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and the oils identified by the name INCI phenyl trimethicone.

Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbons such as squalane, phytosqualane, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, synthetic (poly) esters also called ester oils and (poly) ethers, in particular (poly) esters of 'C6-C20 acids and C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched such as isononyl isononanoate; vegetable oils; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; or one of their mixtures.

The term "ester oil" means a mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-ester oil. The ester oils are obtained by reacting a mono-, di-, tri- and more generally a polyol with a monodi-tri- and more generally a poly-carboxylic acid, said reagents being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated , aliphatic or aromatic, and which may optionally include alkoxylated groups. Ester oils can in particular be hydroxylated.

In particular, the non-volatile ester oil can contain from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

The non-volatile ester oil can in particular be chosen from:

monoesters comprising 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of formula R1COOR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and R2 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing 6 with 20 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate , isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, palmitate

2-octyldecyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

diesters comprising 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular from 18 to 50 carbon atoms, such as diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate; diesters of glycol and mono carboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate;

triesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as triacids of carboxylic triacids, such as triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; or triesters of glycol and mono carboxylic acids such as 2-polyglyceryl triisostearate;

tetraesters containing 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a mono-carboxylic acid, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl teteasononanoate tetradecyl tidecryl teryl tetrecyl , polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or alternatively pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate;

polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol;

esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular those obtained from a dimer of an unsaturated fatty acid at C8 to C34, in particular at C12 to C22, in particular at C16 to C20, and more particularly at C18, such as the esters of dilinoleic acids and of dilinoleic dimer diols, for example those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerine trioctanoate; acid triglycerides in Cl8-36 such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 sold by Stéarinerie Dubois); and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;

- or one of their mixtures.

The non-volatile oil used in the present invention is preferably a low gloss oil.

An oil with a low gloss is called an oil whose refractive index is less than 1.46, preferably less than 1.45, even more preferably less than 1.44.

The refractive index is measured using an ABBE paralux ref 606400-9 refractometer.

Among the low-shine oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of (poly) esters and (poly) synthetic ethers, in particular the (poly) esters of C6-C20 acids and C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate; di (C6-C20 alkyl) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold by BASF under the name Cetiol® CC; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; polyesters of polyols, in particular of (di) pentaerythritol, such as pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 5 cSt and 100 cSt (centistokes); or one of their mixtures.

Among these low-gloss oils, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate or a mixture thereof is preferred.

These oils are very fluid, which makes it possible to incorporate more pigments and therefore to obtain a very intense color.

An additional non-volatile oil can also be used to provide additional properties to the composition of the invention.

As an example, diisostearyl malate can be added because it allows good dispersion of the pigments to be obtained.

Other additional oils can be added to improve the sensory properties of the formula.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from isononyl isononanoate, silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 5 cSt and 100 cSt, diisostearyl malate, or one of their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil introduced into the composition according to the invention is a mixture of isononyl isononanoate, of linear polydimethylsiloxanes of viscosity between 5 cSt and 100 cSt and of diisostearyl malate.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the amount of non-volatile oil present in the composition is between 90% and 100% and preferably between 95% and 100% and even more preferably is 100%. weight relative to the total weight of oils present in the composition.

In other words, the composition comprises less than 10% by weight and preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and even more preferably is free (0%) of volatile oil.

Volatile oil

In addition to the non-volatile oil described above, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one volatile oil.

By volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure of between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg), preferably between 1.3 Pa and 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more preferably still between 1.3 Pa and 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 1000 mm of Hg).

Volatile oils include volatile silicone oils and / or volatile hydrocarbon oils.

The volatile silicone oils are linear or cyclic, in particular have from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and have a viscosity, at room temperature, of less than 5 cSt.

For one volatile silicone oil examples include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, rhexylheptaméthyltrisiloxane the octylbeptaméthyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane or one of their mixtures.

As regards volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may be made of a short-chain hydrocarbon-based oil, volatile linear alkanes such as, for example, described in document ER2933865.

As examples of short-chain hydrocarbon-based oil (s), mention may be made in particular of that (s) chosen from the group comprising isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, dodecane or a of their mixtures.

By way of example of linear volatile alkanes, mention may be made of those having hydrocarbon chains in:

- C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

- C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen ™ L15,

- C12-C14, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC.

- C9-C12 alkane, such as those marketed by Daito under the name Makigreen D10.

First oil

By first oil is meant the oil in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer is conveyed. This first oil is chosen from non-volatile oils and volatile oils.

Preferably, this first oil is chosen from non-volatile oils. Mention may in particular be made of non-volatile silicone oils. More advantageously, the first non-volatile oil or oils are chosen from linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 5 cSt and 100 cSt (centistokes); or one of their mixtures.

Second oil

In addition to the first oil, the oil in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer is conveyed, the composition may optionally comprise a second oil.

By second oil is meant an oil different from the first oil mentioned above. This second oil is chosen from non-volatile oils or volatile oils, or a mixture thereof.

Preferably, this second oil is chosen from non-volatile oils.

Advantageously, this second oil is chosen from low-gloss non-volatile oils such as for example synthetic (poly) esters and (poly) ethers, in particular the (poly) esters of C6-C20 acids and C6- alcohols C20, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate; di (C6-C20 alkyl) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold by BASF under the name Cetiol® CC; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; polyesters of polyols, in particular of (di) pentaerythritol, such as pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 5 cSt and 100 cSt (centistokes); or one of their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the second oil is chosen from isononyl isononanoate, silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity between 5 cSt and 100 cSt, diisostearyl malate, or a mixture thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil introduced into the composition according to the invention is a mixture of isononyl isononanoate, of linear polydimethylsiloxanes of viscosity between 5 cSt and 100 cSt and of diisostearyl malate.

The total amount of oils present in the composition according to the invention is between 75% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Coloring agent

The coloring agent may in particular be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, nacres, lacquers or one of their mixtures.

These coloring agents can optionally be treated on the surface with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, mixed copolymers C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicones, lecithins, wax. carnauba, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate. The pigments can be mineral or organic, natural or synthetic.

Examples of mineral pigments are in particular titanium dioxide, iron, zinc or chromium oxides, manganese violets, ultramarines, ferric ferrocyanide known as Prussian Blue, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic pigments, pearlescent , interference, photochromic or thermochromic, without this list being exhaustive.

Examples of organic pigments which can be used in the invention are in particular carbon black, pigments of the D&C type, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum or else diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP ) described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

The nacres can be chosen from those conventionally present in make-up products, such as mica / titanium dioxide. Alternatively, they may be nacres based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide (SUNSHINE® from MAPRECOS), calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS from BASF) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR® from MERCK).

Advantageously, when it contains one or more pigments, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one dispersant such as diisostearyl malate.

The coloring agents are preferably present in the composition in a content of between 0.1% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises less than 1% by weight and preferably is free of structuring agent or of agent capable of modifying the rheology other than the organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Structuring agent

The structuring agent is a wax and / or a silicone resin and / or a lipophilic gelling agent, or one of their mixture.

The term “wax” designates a fat with reversible liquid / solid change, having a melting temperature above 30 ° C. and generally below 110 ° C., which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and which has an organization anisotropic crystalline solid state.

The term “lipophilic gelling agent” designates a substance capable of solidifying or gelatinizing the oil introduced into the composition of the invention.

The wax comprises a polar wax and / or a nonpolar wax, or a mixture thereof.

By polar wax is meant a wax comprising at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

In particular, the polar wax is chosen from the group comprising beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, rice bran wax, bay wax, insect wax from China, montan wax, lanolin and its alcohol, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated derivatives, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax, polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswaxes marketed by Koster Keunen under the trade name Kester Wax K82H, or a mixture thereof.

Mention may also be made of plant ester waxes chosen from the group comprising the mixture of jojoba esters, polyglycerin-3, acacia decurrens flower wax and sunflower seed wax, said mixture being marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Acticire®, the jojoba esters marketed by Floratech under the trade name Floraesters 60 or Floraesters 70, the alkyl esters or hydrogenated alkyl esters marketed by Sophim under the trade name Phytowax, for example the esters of hydrogenated lauroyl oleate marketed under the name Phytowax Olive 12L44.

By apolar wax is meant a hydrocarbon wax and / or a silicone wax.

The term "apolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

Examples of nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes include polyethylene wax, sold by New Phase Technologies under the name Performalene 400 (P400) or by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jeenate 3H, a mixture of linear high molecular weight polyethylene and ethylene / propylene, marketed by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20, a synthetic wax marketed by Sasol under the name Sasol Wax C80, synthetic waxes and vegetable waxes, such as for example a mixture of synthetic wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smart wax 202, a mixture of synthetic wax, Candelilla wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smartwax 7743S, Fischer Tropsch waxes marketed by Cirebelle under the name Cirebelle 303, or one of their mixtures.

The term “silicone apolar wax” means a wax comprising a silicon heteroatom.

Examples of silicone apolar waxes include C20-24 alkyl dimethicone, sold by Siltech under the name Silwax D2024, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, sold by Evonik Industries AG under the name Abil Wax, or a mixture thereof.

By way of example of silicone resins, there may be mentioned:

siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula [(CH3) 3SiO] x (SiO4 / 2) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers between 50 and 80, polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH3SiO3 / 2). x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and in which at least one of the methyl radicals can be substituted by a group R as defined above, polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in document US 5,246,694.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those which are marketed:

by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH3S1O3 / 2 (T units), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH3) 2SiO2 / 2 (units D) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000, by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3S1O3 / 2 and have terminal groups Si-OH (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have end groups Si-OH or also under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of units dimethyl D and have Si-OH end groups.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (TMS) optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu, DOWSIL 749, DOWSIL 593 by the company Dow Chemical Company.

The lipophilic gelling agents can be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

As mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of fumed silica optionally hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. Silanol groups can in particular be substituted by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be:

trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica silylate according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R812® references by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company CABOT.

Hydrophobic fumed silica in particular has a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, ethylcellulose, such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by the company DOW CHEMICAL; galactommananes comprising from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups by dare, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1 to C6 alkyl chains, and in particular to C1 to C3 or one of their mixtures. The block copolymers of the diblock, triblock or radial type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type such as those sold under the name of Kraton® by the company SHELL CHEMICAL CO or also of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane such as those sold by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel® as for example the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960) or in hydrogenated polyisobutene (Versagel ME 2000).

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of polyamide resins or poly (ester-amide) resins, such as ester-terminated polyamides (ETPA), ester-terminated poly (ester-amides) (ETPEA). , tertiary amide terminated polyamides (ATPA), polyalkyleneoxy terminated polyamides (PAOPA) or polyether polyamides (PEPA).

Examples of ester-terminated polyamides (ETPA) are those identified by the name INCI Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer and available, for example, under the trade name Uniclear® 100VG from the company Arizona Chemical.

Examples of poly (ester-amides) terminated by an ester (ETPEA) are those identified by the name INCI polyamide-8 which are ethylene diamine bis-stearyl ethylene diamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl dimer dibenzoate copolymers and available, for example, under the trade name Oloecraft® LP-20-PA-MV from Croda.

Examples of tertiary amide-terminated polyamides (ATPA) are those identified by the name INCI Ethylenediamine / Bis-DiC14-18 Alkyl Amide hydrogenated dimer diilinoate copolymer and available, for example, under the trade name Sylvaclear® A200V or Sylvaclear® A2614V from the company Arizona Chemical or those identified by the name INCI diisostearyl malate and bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylenediamine and available, for example, under the trade name Haimalate PAM from the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.

Examples of polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides (PAOPA) are those identified by the name INCI Polyamide-3 and available, for example, under the names Sylvaclear® AF1900V, Sylvaclear® PE1800V and Sylvaclear® PA1200V from the company Arizona Chemical.

Examples of polyether polyamides (PEPA) are those identified by the name INCI Polyamide-6 and available, for example, under the name Sylvaclear® PE400V from the company Arizona Chemical.

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of diamides of N-acyl glutamic acid. Mention may in particular be made of an N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a straight chain alkyl group such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and an N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a branched chain alkyl group, such as dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide . Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide is commercially available as GP-1 and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide is commercially available as EB-21, and are both marketed by Ajinomoto.

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of dextrin esters. Mention may be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitate.

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of sucrose esters. Mention may be made of the sucrose and fatty acid esters, such as the sucrose tetrastearate triacetate available under the trade name Sisterna® A10E-C from the company Sisterna.

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of glyceryl esters. Mention may be made of the diester of eicosadioic acid and of glycerol esterified with behenic acid. It is in particular available under the trade name NOMCORT HK-G from the company NISSHIN OILLIO.

Agent capable of modifying rheology

Among the agents capable of modifying the rheology, there may be mentioned pasty compounds, clay, or a mixture thereof.

Pasty compounds

Among the pasty compounds that may be mentioned:

Lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds or not, fluorinated compounds or not, vinyl polymers, in particular:

• olefin homopolymers • olefin copolymers • homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes • linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8C30 alkyl group • homo oligomers and vinyl ester copolymers having C8-C3O alkyl groups • homo oligomers and vinyl ether copolymers having C8-C3O alkyl groups, fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably in C2-C50, mixtures of beeswax and octyldodecanol such as that sold under the name Zenibee Cream by the company Zenitech, esters, vegetable butters such as mango butter, shea butter, cocoa, cotton , avocado ...

or one of their mixtures.

Among the esters, there may be mentioned in particular:

esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular esters of diglycerol, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid , capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the brand Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand Waxenol 801 by Alzo, phytosterol esters such as the product with the INCI name "Phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl / isostearyl lauroyl glutamate" marketed under the name Eldew-PS3O8 by the company Ajinomoto, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, by example the mixture of stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate marketed under the name DUB solid by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, the pentaerythritol esters , the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a linear or branched C4-C50 polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, the aliphatic esters of ester resulting from the esterification of an ester of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid with an aliphatic carboxylic acid such as cetyl lactate sold under the name ceraphyl 28 by the company ISP (International Specialty Products), the polyesters resulting from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, of an ester of aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as the products Risocast DA-H®, and Risocast DA-L®, or a mixture thereof.

The clay

The clay can be natural or synthetic. It is made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride. Among the clays, mention may be made of: bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotites, attapulgites, and vermiculites.

Advantageously, the composition comprises less than 10% by weight and preferably less than 5% by weight and even more preferably is free of non-colored solid filler.

Uncolored solid filler

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and even more preferably is free of uncolored solid filler.

This uncolored solid filler is colorless or white.

The particles which constitute them can be porous or not, and can be in various forms, in particular in platelet, spherical or oblong form, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.).

In particular, the following uncoloured solid filler can be cited: lauroyl lysine, boron nitride, silicone microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by Toshiba for example, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, microcapsules of starch or one of their mixtures, glass or ceramic, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, magnesium aluminum silicate such as that sold under the trade name Neusilin ULF2 by the company Fuji Chemical Industry .

Water

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. The term “anhydrous” is understood to mean in particular that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions.

Advantageously, the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably, is free of water.

Additional Additives

Apart from the above-mentioned constituents, the composition according to the invention can contain various ingredients, such as a UV filter, a sweetening agent, an antioxidant, a sequestering agent, a pH adjuster; a preservative, perfume, active ingredient, or a mixture thereof.

UV filters can in particular be chosen from organic and inorganic filters or one of their mixtures. As organic filters, mention may in particular be made of dibenzoylmethane derivatives (including butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), cinnamic acid derivatives (including ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), salicylates, paraaminobenzoic acids, β, β'-diphenylacrylates, benzophenones , benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazoles, triazines, phenylbenzotriazoles and anthranilic derivatives. As inorganic filters, mention may in particular be made of filters based on mineral oxides in the form of pigments or nanopigments, coated or not, and in particular based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

The sweetening agents can be chosen from sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, acesulfame K and sodium saccharinate or a mixture thereof;

The antioxidants can be chosen from alkyl or phosphorylated esters of ascorbic acid, or alternatively tocopherol and its esters or one of their mixtures;

The sequestrants can be chosen from EDTA salts;

Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, llth Edition, 2006).

Matt aspect of the composition

The lipstick composition advantageously has a mat appearance and a homogeneous and creamy texture.

The matt appearance of the lipstick composition is highlighted by a measure of gloss.

The product is placed in an oven at 35 ° C for 30 minutes before the measurement.

The lipstick composition of the invention is spread on an unvarnished contrast card of the BYK brand on a black background to a thickness of 90 microns thanks to an automatic heating spreader set to 35 ° C. using a gauge. rectangular brand Erichsen model 360, has a gloss value measured at 85 ° using a gloss meter under the name of micro-TRI-gloss or PICOGLOSS 503 sold by the company BYK.

The value of the brightness is obtained by the average of 3 measurements taken at three different points on the contrast card.

On the lipstick compositions of the invention, this gloss value is less than 30, preferably less than 25, even more preferably less than 15.

Composition hardness

One of the advantages of the composition of the invention is that its texture is homogeneous and creamy and that it remains so over time.

This property of texture stability over time is measured by a hardness measurement.

The cosmetic composition of the invention as defined above can also be characterized in that it has a hardness of between 5g (grams) and 60 g (grams), preferably between 10 g (grams) and 50 g (grams), and even more preferably between 20 g (grams) and 50 g (grams), this 1 day after manufacture and after storage of 1 day, 15 days, 1 month, 2 months and 3 months in a oven at 20 ° C and in an oven at 45 ° C.

The hardness of the composition, which is expressed in grams (g), is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System" by the company Swantech. The texturometer is equipped with a hemispherical Delrin Hemispherical Delrin finger-shaped probe with a diameter of 12.7 mm moving at the measurement speed of 5mm / s and penetrating into the composition at a depth of 5 mm.

The hardness value is the compression force measured, divided by the surface of the hemispherical probe of the texturometer in contact with the composition.

The measurement is made in 15 ml perfume jars 40 mm high and 38 mm in diameter, filled at room temperature to the neck, ie 20 mm high, with the composition. The samples thus prepared are stored for 24 h at 20 ° C before carrying out the measurement.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention consists of:

- from 10% to 15% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in a non-volatile oil;

- from 0.1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a coloring agent;

- from 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of oils and

- at least one additive chosen from a UV filter, a sweetening agent, an antioxidant, a sequestering agent, a pH adjuster, a preservative, a perfume, an active agent, or their mixtures.

Process

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for the preparation of a lipstick composition which is fluid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and mat. This other aspect of the invention is characterized in that a fluid and matte lipstick composition is prepared at room temperature (25 ° C) by mixing at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in an oil present in a dry matter content of between 10% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one coloring agent, optionally a second oil, the total oil content being greater than or equal to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition comprising at least one non-volatile oil;

A lipstick composition obtained according to the process of the invention advantageously has a mat appearance and a homogeneous and creamy texture.

The object of the present invention is also to provide a process for the preparation of a matte lipstick composition at room temperature (20 ° C.) comprising the following steps:

(1) Grind the pigments, if present, beforehand in part of the oil;

(2) mixing at room temperature (20 ° C) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in an oil with the other oils if present;

(3) Add to the mixture obtained in (2), any coloring agents other than the pigments as well as any pigments from step (1) with continuous stirring;

(4) Optionally add an additive chosen from a UV filter, a sweetening agent, an antioxidant, a sequestrant, a pH adjuster, a preservative, a perfume, an active agent, or a mixture thereof; and (5) fill the final packaging at room temperature (20 ° C) with the composition obtained in step (4).

The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for or making up the skin or the lips.

The following examples are given to illustrate the invention. These examples being presented only by way of illustration, the invention can in no case be limited to their object.

Example I: PREPARATION OF LIPSTICKS

Fluid lipstick compositions at room temperature are prepared with the following formulas (% by weight):

function Ingredient TRADE NAME invention Ex 1 Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 (%) (%) (%) (%) (%) oil Isononyl isononanoate DUB ININ 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 oil Diisostearyl malate SALACOS 222 11.9 12.6 12.7 12.9 16.11 Organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in an oil Dimethicone (85%) and dimethicone crosspolymer (15%) DOWSIL 9041 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND 79.0 79.0 79.0 79.0 70.00 Agent dye pigments 3.3 2.4 2.3 2.1 2.5 active Tocopheryl acetate DL-ALPHA TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 perfume Perfume qs qs qs qs qs conservative phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Total Total composition: 100 100 100 100 100

Procedure:

The following steps are carried out:

(1) Grind the pigments present, beforehand in part of the oil;

(2) mixing at room temperature at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in an oil with the other oils;

(3) Add to the mixture obtained in (2), any coloring agents other than the pigments as well as the pigments from step (1) with continuous stirring;

(4) Optionally add an additive chosen from a UV filter, a sweetening agent, an antioxidant, a sequestrant, a pH adjuster, a preservative, a perfume, an active agent, or one of their mixtures, and (5) fill final conditioning at room temperature with the composition obtained in step (4).

Example II- Gloss and hardness measurements

Gloss measurement

The lipstick composition of the invention is spread on an unvarnished contrast card of the BYK brand on a black background to a thickness of 90 microns thanks to an automatic heating spreader set to 35 ° C. using a gauge. rectangular brand Erichsen model 360, has a gloss value measured at 85 ° using a gloss meter under the name of micro-TRI-gloss or PICOGLOSS 503 sold by the company BYK.

The value of the brightness is obtained by the average of 3 measurements taken at three different points on the contrast card.

Hardness measurement

The hardness of the composition, which is expressed in grams (g), is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System" by the company Swantech. The texturometer is equipped with a hemispherical Delrin Hemispherical Delrin finger-shaped probe with a diameter of 12.7 mm moving at the measurement speed of 5mm / s and penetrating into the composition at a depth of 5 mm.

The hardness value is the compression force measured, divided by the surface of the hemispherical probe of the texturometer in contact with the composition.

The measurement of the samples of the lipstick compositions of each example prepared in Example I is carried out in 15 ml perfume jars 40 mm high and 38 mm in diameter, filled at room temperature to the neck, ie 20 mm high, by the composition. The samples thus prepared are stored for 24 h at 20 ° C before carrying out the measurement. The results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2:

Example 85 ° gloss at BYK Hardness (g) D + l after storage at 20 ° C Example 1 (invention) 2.8 +/- 0.4 39 Example 2 (invention) 4.8 +/- 0.4 35 Example 3 (invention) 11.7 +/- 0.1 35 Example 4 (Invention) 11.6 +/- 0.1 13 Example 5 (invention) 27 +/- 1 7

Claims (4)

1. Cosmetic composition fluid at room temperature (25 ° C) comprising: at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in an oil present in a dry matter content of between 10% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one coloring agent, optionally a second oil, the total oil content being greater than or equal to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprising at least one non-volatile oil. 2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the amount of non-volatile oil is between 90% and 100% and preferably between 95% and 100% and even more preferably is 100% by weight, relative the total weight of oils present in the composition. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight and preferably is free of structuring agent or agent capable of modifying the rheology other than the elastomer of organopolysiloxane. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and even more preferably is free of uncolored solid filler. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably, is free of water. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from (poly) esters and (poly) synthetic ethers, in particular (poly) esters of C6 acids -C20 and C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate; di (C6-C20 alkyl) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; polyesters of polyols, in particular of (di) pentaerythritol, such as pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 5 cSt and 100 cSt; or one of their mixtures. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from isononyl isononanoate, silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 5 cSt and 100 cSt, diisostearyl malate, or a mixture thereof. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring agent is chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, nacres, lacquers or one of their mixtures. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of coloring agent in the composition is between 0.1% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition of the invention spread over a contrast card has a brightness value measured at 85 ° using a gloss meter under the name of micro -TRI-gloss or PICOGLOSS 503 sold by the company BYK less than 30 preferably less than 25, even more preferably less than 15. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a lipstick. 12. Lipstick composition according to claim 11, characterized in that it has a hardness measured at 20 ° C using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System" by the company Swantech between 5 g (grams) and 60 g (grams), preferably between 10 g (grams) and 50 g (grams), and even more preferably between 20 g (grams) and 50 g (grams), and this 1 day after manufacture and after storage of 1 day, 15 days, 1 month, 2 months and 3 months in an oven at 20 ° C and in an oven at 45 ° C. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of: - from 10% to 15% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in a non-volatile oil; - from 0.1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a coloring agent; - from 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of oils and - at least one additive chosen from a UV filter, a sweetening agent, an antioxidant, a sequestering agent, a pH adjuster, a preservative, a perfume, an active agent, or their mixtures. 14. Method for preparing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising the following steps: (1) Grind the pigments, if present, beforehand in part of the oil; (2) mixing at room temperature (20 ° C) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in an oil with the other oils if present; (3) Add to the mixture obtained in (2), any coloring agents other than the pigments as well as any pigments from step (1) with continuous stirring; (4) Optionally add an additive chosen from a UV filter, a sweetening agent, an antioxidant, a sequestrant, a pH adjuster, a preservative, a perfume, an active agent, or a mixture thereof; and (5) fill the final packaging at room temperature (20 ° C) with the composition obtained in step (4). 15. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for caring for or making up the skin or the lips.