FR3045364A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, INCOMPATIBLE HYDROCARBON AND SILICONE OILS, A WAX, AND METHOD FOR CARRYING OUT THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising: at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3; At least 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of at least one second oil which is incompatible with the first oil or oils, chosen from non-volatile oils. silicone, of the nonvolatile fluoro oils, or combinations thereof, • optionally at least a third nonvolatile oil different from the first oil or oils chosen from polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils different from the second or second oils, phenylated, not including a dimethicone moiety, or mixtures thereof, • at least one polar or apolar wax, • less than 5% by weight of water, by weight of the composition. It also relates to a process for makeup and / or care, in particular lips, wherein the above-mentioned composition is applied.

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, INCOMPATIBLE HYDROCARBON AND SILICONE OILS, A WAX, AND PROCESS

IMPLEMENTING IT

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for makeup and / or care of the lips, comprising alkycellulose, at least one wax, and a mixture of oils, at least two of which are not compatible with each other. It also relates to a makeup process and / or care, especially the lips, of applying such a composition on the lips.

The present invention is more particularly concerned with make-up and / or lip care compositions for which a glossy deposit is obtained.

The anhydrous, liquid or solid compositions, especially dedicated to make-up and / or care of the lips, with a brilliant result, are obtained from mixtures comprising relatively high levels of oils, as well as dyestuffs, for example nacres and / or pigments.

In the case of fluid compositions, they must have a sufficient viscosity to ensure stability of the composition over time, in particular to keep the dyestuffs in suspension, and prevent the composition from flowing out of the areas to be treated or makeup during the application. The viscosity of the composition must also limit the migration thereof in the lines and wrinkles of the lip contour after application. However, this viscosity must remain such that the composition can be applied satisfactorily, with a good slip, to obtain a homogeneous deposit, sufficiently fine.

In the case of solid compositions, structuring agents, such as, for example, waxes, are often added to the above-mentioned mixtures. These compounds must sufficiently stiffen the compositions so that they can be molded in stick form, without impairing their properties of use. The compositions must indeed be able to destructure to allow the easy application of an appropriate amount on the lips.

Regardless of the liquid or solid dosage form, given the large quantity of oils, in particular non-volatile oils present, these compositions often contain thickeners, such as fillers, such as, for example, bentones or silicas. The disadvantage of this type of compound is that it decreases the brightness of the resulting deposit. Moreover, when they are used in too large contents, the compositions can become uncomfortable and give sensations of dryness or tugging of the lips.

Polymers such as, for example, cellulose ethers can also be employed as described in US 5908631.

However, the gloss hold, as well as the color transfer resistance of the described compositions can be further improved.

Indeed, women are more and more in search of compositions whose deposit is tenacious, retaining in particular its gloss characteristics, with a limited color transfer, without degrading the comfort properties of the deposit, which must be no or little sticky, and do not provide a feeling of tightness or dryness of the lips once the composition is applied.

The present invention therefore aims to solve the above problems and relates to a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3, • at least one first non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, • at least 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of at least one second non-volatile oil. compatible with the first oil or oils, chosen from nonvolatile silicone oils, from non-volatile fluorinated oils, or combinations thereof, optionally at least one third nonvolatile oil different from the first oil or oils chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils or apolar, silicone oils different from the second or second oils, phenylated not comprising a dimethicone moiety, or mixtures thereof, less polar or apolar wax, less than 5% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition.

It also relates to a process for makeup and / or care, in particular lips, wherein the above-mentioned composition is applied.

The composition according to the invention has the advantage of being stable over time, easy to apply, giving a homogeneous, non-sticky deposit.

In addition, the composition according to the invention gives a glossy deposit with improved gloss retention over time.

In addition, the deposit obtained by application of the composition according to the invention is substantially resistant or resistant to color transfer and also has improved resistance to migration.

In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".

Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified.

The temperatures mentioned in the description are indicated at atmospheric pressure (1.013, 105 Pa).

The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

The composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of water, more particularly less than 2% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition, and advantageously is anhydrous.

By "anhydrous" is meant in particular that the water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used.

The composition according to the invention may be advantageously in a fluid (gloss) to solid (stick) form.

By "fluid" is meant in particular a composition which is not solid at room temperature (25 ° C), and it is possible to measure a viscosity.

By "solid" is meant in particular a composition whose hardness can be measured according to the method known as "butter-cutting thread".

Between these two extremes are intermediate textures whose viscosity and hardness can neither be measured nor measured using the methods detailed below. Such compositions are then called pasty.

Protocol for the measurement of viscosity:

The measurement of the viscosity is generally carried out at 25 ° C., using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 3 mobile or a No. 4 mobile, according to the usual recommendations. being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the composition (time at which a stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile) is observed, at a speed of 200 revolutions / min.

Preferably, the composition has at 25 ° C a viscosity of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 0.5 and 22 Pa.s.

Protocol for measuring the hardness:

The stick composition is stored at 20 ° C for 24 hours before the hardness measurement.

The measurement is carried out at 20 ° C. and consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, using a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm1, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by INDELCO-CTLATILLON.

The measurement is repeated three times and averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

The hardness is converted to Nm "1 by the equation below:

(Y x 10 "3 x 9.8) / L

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention, when it is in solid form, advantageously has a hardness at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure of between 20 and 150 Nm -1, and preferably between 40 and 120 Nm. -1.

alkylcellulose

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, especially between 2 and 3 carbon atoms. The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain consisting of β-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + R'Cl ROR '+ NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical and R' represents a C2 alkyl radical C6.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose may be chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, and preferably ethylcellulose.

The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to an alkoxy content of 54.88%.

The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, that is to say comprising an ethoxy content ranging from at 50%. The alkylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly in pulverulent form.

It is for example marketed under the trade names "ETHOCEL Standard" Dow Chemicals, including "ETHOCEL Standard FP 7 Premium" and "ETHOCEL standard 100 FP Premium". Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose Type-K, Type-N and Type-T, preferably N-type, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable. to the realization of the invention.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose content varies from 2 to 16% by weight, more particularly from 4 to 16% by weight, and preferably from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

FIRST NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil.

By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 .105 Pa), immiscible with water.

By "immiscible" is meant that the mixing of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under normal conditions of temperature and pressure . The observation is made with the eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to reveal a vortex within the mixture (indicative 200 to 1000 tr / min); the resulting mixture is left standing in a closed vial for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. The hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil.

It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

A polar oil within the meaning of the invention comprises, in addition to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.62 Pa (0.02 mm Hg) and better still less than 0.13 Pa ( 3 mm Hg).

More particularly, this or these first oils comprise at least one hydroxyl unit, or at least one ester unit or their combinations.

The first oil or oils are furthermore chosen from oils which are incompatible with the second silicone oil (s) or fluorinated oil (s). To verify this character, it implements the compatibility protocol described below.

Oil compatibility tests

Three mixtures of 100 g each comprising two oils are prepared in the following proportions: 75/25, 50/50, 25/75; at 95 ° C under Rayneri stirring sufficient to reveal a vortex within the mixture (indicative, 200 to 1000 rpm) for one hour. Each resulting mixture is poured into a container which is closed. The composition is left at room temperature for 24 hours.

The resulting mixture is then observed in the eye and, if necessary, in the phase contrast microscope.

If the mixture shows two phases, totally or partially separated (two oils with a clear separation or separated by a zone comprising a mixture of both) then the two oils are said to be incompatible at the given proportion.

If the mixture of the two oils appears homogeneous to the eye, opaque or transparent, and that observation under a phase contrast microscope reveals a mixture of two oils, the oils are said to be incompatible at the given proportion.

In other cases, the oils are said to be compatible.

Among the polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used as the first oil in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of C 10 -C 26 alcohols; saturated or unsaturated, nonaromatic, linear or branched mono- or di-esters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups; aromatic mono- or di-esters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups; saturated or unsaturated, nonaromatic, linear or branched triesters comprising less than 60 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups; vegetable oils; as well as their mixtures. C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

More particularly, the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of straight or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin, or else natural, for example alcohols derived from vegetable matter (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (tallow ...).

It is also possible to use other long-chain alcohols, for example ether-alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.

Finally, it is also possible to use certain longer or shorter cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as, for example, coco (C12 to C18) or tallow (C16 to C18).

It is preferable to use a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used as preferred, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol and isoketyl alcohol. octyldodecanol and their mixtures.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol. saturated or unsaturated nonaromatic mono- or di-esters, comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, and advantageously from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups.

Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoesters or diesters obtained from saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24, carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand: and saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms (excluding carbonyl group) being at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester may optionally comprise one or two ether groups, and may optionally comprise one or two groups hydroxyl. As examples of monoesters, mention may be made of cetostearyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate and octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate, isopropyl isostearate; isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and alcohol derived from coconut (C12-C18 alcohols), palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate or mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of monoesters, diesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C 2 -C 8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol. In particular, the monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, are suitable for carrying out the invention; and diesters of a C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acid diacid and a C 2 -C 8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2-hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate.

Mention may also be made of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, (iso) stearic acid, ricinoleic acid, and diols, in particular glycols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate, monoricinoleate propylene glycol.,

Among the suitable diesters, there may be mentioned bis (2-diethylhexyl) succinate and glycol diesters in particular C2-C5, glycerol or diglycerol and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic monoacids, such as dicaprate neopentyl glycol, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

It is also possible to use hydroxylated monoesters and diesters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate and glycerin stearate. aromatic mono- or di-esters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups.

Mono-C3-C20 monoalcohols, more particularly C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, are suitable.

Mention may also be made of esters of a monoalcohol or polyol, especially C 2 -C 20, linear or branched, preferably saturated, optionally comprising two or three hydroxyl groups, and benzoic acid. By way of examples, the diesters of a C2-C10 polyol, more particularly of C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated, and comprising two or three hydroxyl groups, and of benzoic acid, preferably from ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and mixtures thereof. * linear or branched triesters, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic, comprising less than 60 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups.

Esters obtained from optionally hydroxylated, C2-C40, preferably C4-C40, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, mono- or polycarboxylic acids and polyols or C2 monohydric alcohols are suitable for the invention. -C40, preferably C3-C40; said polyester optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.

It is possible, for example, to use triacetin, as well as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated C8-C20 fatty acids, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, in particular saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric. triglyceride and their mixtures, for example such as that marketed under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, C8-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Dubois stearineries), glyceryl triisostearate. By way of example, mention may also be made of oils comprising three ester functions, optionally hydroxylated or acetylated, of acid comprising three carboxylic functions, C 2 -C 8, optionally hydroxylated, and C 2 -C 8 monoalcohol, advantageously C 2 -C 8. C4. Thus, citric acid esters such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, and mixtures thereof. * vegetable oils

There may be mentioned, inter alia, vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as, for example, jojoba oil, unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, lemon oil and the like. coriander oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, kernel oil apricot (Prunus Armeniaca Kemel Oil), the liquid fraction of shea butter, the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and their mixtures. * their mixtures.

Preferably, the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from C 10 -C 25 alcohols, more particularly monoalcohols, and preferably octyldodecanol.

The content of the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) polar (s) preferably represents from 20 to 55% by weight, preferably from 22 to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio (alkylcellulose / alkylcellulose + first (s) oil (s)) * 100 varies from 10 to 60%. Preferably, said weight ratio varies from 10 to 50%.

THIRD NON-VOLATILE OPTIONAL OILS

The present invention may optionally comprise at least one third nonvolatile, hydrocarbon or silicone oil other than the second oil or oils.

The third oil (es) are chosen in such a way that they are (are) compatible with the first oil (s) described above, according to the protocol detailed previously.

The third oil or oils may be chosen from the first aforementioned oils to the extent that they are / are compatible with the second or second silicone or fluorinated oils which will be described later. This characteristic is verified, in a simple manner, by implementing the previously described protocol.

They may also be chosen from polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils different from the first oils, from apolar hydrocarbon oils, from phenyl silicone oils having no dimethicone fraction, and mixtures thereof.

Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils different from the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oils described above, mention may be made of oils comprising at least one ester group, optionally at least one free hydroxyl group more particularly chosen from linear or branched mono- or di-esters, saturated or unsaturated, nonaromatic, comprising more than 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups; saturated or unsaturated, nonaromatic, linear or branched triesters comprising at least 60 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups, and mixtures thereof; aromatic mono- or di-esters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid; polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid (s) triglyceride (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. saturated or unsaturated non-aromatic mono- or di-esters, comprising more than 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups. As examples of monoesters, mention may be made of the stearate of 2-octyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl ferucate, isostearyl isostearate; 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, or mixtures thereof.

Among the suitable diesters, there may be mentioned isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, glycol diesters in particular C2-C5, glycerol or diglycerol and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic monoacids, such as polyglyceryl -2 diisostearate (especially such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by Alzo).

It is also possible to use hydroxylated monoesters and diesters such as polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate or diisostearyl malate. saturated or unsaturated, nonaromatic, linear or branched triesters comprising at least 60 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups, and mixtures thereof.

Glycerol or polyglycerol triesters and carboxylic monoacids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, glyceryl tri-2-tetradecanoate, can be mentioned. Tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, polyglyceryl tetraisostearate; 2 or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate. The polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in Patent Application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol. butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA. * The esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as the esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid and the esters of diol dimer and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular can be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially of C8 to C34, in particular C12 to C22, in particular C16 to C20, and more particularly to C18, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of Dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. The polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carboxylic acid (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, such as castor oil, succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, apolar

These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as, for example: paraffin oil, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example INDOPOL H-100, INDOPOL H-300, INDOPOL H-1500 from the company AMOCO, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as for example Parléam® from NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E from AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 from SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 from WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE from NOF Corporation, - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, such as, for example: PURESYN 10, PURESYN 150, PURESYN 6 from the company EXXONMOBIL CHEMIC AL, - and mixtures thereof.

Phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils having no dimethicone moiety

By "silicone oil" is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

The term "phenylated" specifies that said oil comprises in its structure at least one phenyl radical.

The term "dimethicone fragment" denotes a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom bears two methyl radicals, this group not being at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: - (Si (CH3) 2-0) -.

By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 -3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

The silicone oils that can be used within the meaning of the invention advantageously have a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 150,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol, and better still less than or equal to 10,000. g / mol.

The silicones preferably do not contain a C2-C3 alkylene oxide group or a glycerol group. As the first phenyl silicone nonvolatile non-volatile oil having no dimethicone fragment, suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the following oils, alone or in mixtures: a) phenylated secondary oils corresponding to the following formula (I):

wherein the monovalent or divalent R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R is phenyl and that the formula (I) does not include a dimethicone moiety.

Preferably, in this formula, the phenylsilicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. b) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (II):

in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl and that the formula (I) does not comprise a dimethicone moiety.

Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.

Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds previously described may be used.

Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made more particularly of phenylated silicone oils having no dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 R radicals represent a phenyl radical, the radicals remaining representing methyl.

Such nonvolatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl- pentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyl-tetraphenyl-trisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.

They correspond in particular to the following formulas (Ha), (Ilb):

wherein Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl. c) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (III) below:

in which: Ri to Rio, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals; m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers; between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is different from 0 and that p is equal to 0 if R3 and R4 represent methyl groups.

Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

Preferably, q is 0.

More particularly, Ri to Rio, independently of each other, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, with 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular C 1 -C 8, or a C 6 -C 14 aryl radical and in particular C 10 -C 13, monocyclic or polycyclic, or an aralkyl radical preferably whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 3.

Preferably, R 1 to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to Rio may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical.

According to a first more particular embodiment of the formula (III), mention may be made of: i) the silicone oils selected from the formula (IHi) below:

in which: R 1 to R 3 (independently of one another are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radicals, an aryl radical, preferably a C 6 -C 14 radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part is C 1 -C 3). m, n and p are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100 and that p is equal to 0 if R3 and Ri represent groups methyl.

Preferably, R 1 to R, independently of one another, represent a hydrocarbon radical, preferably C 1 -C 20 alkyl, in particular C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical, or a monocyclic C 6 -C 14 aryl radical (preferably Ce) or polycyclic and in particular C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C6, the alkyl part is C1-C3).

Preferably, R 1 to R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

R 1 to R may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and p = 0 may be applied in the formula (IHi).

According to a suitable variant, mention may be made of compounds (B) derived from formula (IIIi) below:

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe3, p is 0, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (B) is a non-volatile oil .

It may be used, for example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556). il) the nonvolatile phenyl silicone oils having no dimethicone fragment corresponding to the formula (IHii) below:

in which: R, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, preferably R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably a C6 radical; -Ch, or an aralkyl radical whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 3). m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R, independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, C1-C20, in particular in C 1 -C 12 and more particularly in C 4 -C 10, a C 6 -C 14 aryl radical which is monocyclic or polycyclic and in particular C 10 -C 13, or an aralkyl radical, preferably the aryl part is C 6 and the alkyl part is C 1 -C 4 C3).

Preferably, the R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

The R may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical.

Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied, in formula (Illii).

According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, in the formula (Illii). Preferably R is a methyl radical.

According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (IIIii) having a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (i.e., from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 / s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C.

According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyltrimethicones (when n = 0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning, or from diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu, silicone Silbione 70663V30 from Bluestar Silicone. (d) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (IV):

in which :

Ri, R2, R5 and Re are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R5 and R5 not simultaneously representing a methyl radical, R3 and R4 are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to with 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C 6 -C 14), provided that at least one of R 3 and R 4 is a phenyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight average molecular weight of less than 150,000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g /mole.

Preferably, the first oil is chosen from oils of formula (II) or (III), as well as mixtures thereof, and even more preferably, from silicone phenyl oils of formulas (IIa), (IIIi), in particular formula (B), (IIIii), and mixtures thereof.

If the composition comprises at least a third non-volatile oil, the content of the third oil (s) is between 5 and 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 10 and 30% by weight. relative to the weight of the composition. SECOND (S) SILICONE OIL (S) OR FLUOREEISI NON VOLATILE (INCOMPATIBLE)

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second nonvolatile silicone or fluorinated oil, incompatible with the first polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) mentioned above. The incompatibility of the second or non-volatile silicone or fluorinated oils is evaluated according to the protocol described above. This or these oils are furthermore used at a content where they are incompatible with the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils.

By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10'3 mm. Hg (0.13 Pa).

More particularly, the second (s) non-volatile silicone oil (s) incompatible (s) are chosen from non-phenyl silicone oils, among phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils having at least one dimethicone moiety (s) ( - (Si (CH3) 2-0) -).

The silicone oils that can be used within the meaning of the invention advantageously have a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 150,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol, and better still less than or equal to 10,000. g / mol.

The silicones preferably do not contain a C2-C3 alkylene oxide group or a glycerol group.

Non-volatile phenyl silicones having at least one dimethicone fragment As the second phenylated nonvolatile silicone oil having at least one dimethicone fragment, suitable for the present invention, the following oils may be mentioned, alone or as mixtures: a) phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (Π:

wherein the monovalent or divalent R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R is phenyl and that the formula (Γ) comprises at least one dimethicone moiety. b) the silicone oils phenvlées corresponding to the following formula (ΊΠ:

in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl and that the formula (IF) comprises at least one dimethicone moiety. c) the silicone oils tested corresponding to the following formula (ΙΙΓ):

wherein Me is methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X is -CH2-CH (CH3) (Ph). d) the silicone oils phenylated corresponding to the formula (IV ') below:

in which: Ri to Rio, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals; m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers; between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is different from 0; the formula (IV ') comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

Preferably, q is 0.

More particularly, Ri to Rio, independently of each other, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, with 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular C 1 -C 18, or a C 6 -C 14 aryl radical and in particular C 10 -C 13, monocyclic or polycyclic, or an aralkyl radical preferably whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 3.

Preferably, R 1 to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to Rio may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical.

According to a more particular embodiment of formula (IV '), mention may be made of phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (IV'i) below:

in which: Ri to Re, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radicals, an aryl radical, preferably a C 6 -C 14 radical, or an aralkyl radical, the part of which is alkyl is C 1 -C 3). m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, the formula (IV'i) comprising at least one fragment dimethicone.

Preferably, R 1 to R 5, independently of one another, represent a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C 1 -C 20, in particular a C 1 -C 20, alkyl, or a monocyclic C 6 -C 14 aryl radical (preferably C 6) or polycyclic and especially C 10 -C 13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C 6, the alkyl part is C 1 -C 3); the formula (IV'i) comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

Preferably, R 1 to R 5 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical; the formula (IV'i) comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

R 1 to R 5 may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied, in formula (IV'i).

Preferably, the phenyl silicone oils that can be used as the second oil in the context of the invention correspond to compounds of formula (IV'i) in which: A) m = 0 and n and p are independently one of the other, integers between 1 and 100.

Preferably R 1 to R 5 are methyl radicals.

According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) ), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt). B) p is between 1 and 100. the sum n + m is between 1 and 100. and n = 0.

These silicone phenylated oils with or without at least one dimethicone fragment correspond more particularly to

formula (B) below: in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe3 and p is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (B) is a non-volatile oil.

According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is such that p is between 1 and 1000, m being more particularly such that the compound (B) is a non-volatile oil. It can be used, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker. (e) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (V'f:

(V ') in which:

R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 5 are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R 3 and R 4 are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (from preferably C6-C14), with the proviso that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, selected so as to impart to the oil a weight average molecular weight of less than 150,000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol; the formula (V ') comprising at least one dimethicone moiety.

Preferably, the second oil is chosen from oils of formula (IV '), more particularly of formula (IV'i), and preferably oils according to variants (A) and (B), and mixtures thereof.

Non-Phenylated Non-volatile Silicone Oils The term "non-phenyl silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil which does not contain phenyl substituents.

Representative examples of such non-volatile, non-phenolic silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, preferably hydroxyl groups. Note that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is preferably chosen from non-volatile dimethicone oils.

In particular, these oils may be chosen from the following non-volatile oils: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl (or alkyldimethicones), or alkoxy, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of the cetyldimethicone sold under the trade name ABIL WAX 9801 by Evonik Goldschmidt, PDMSs or alkyldimethicones comprising functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, preferably hydroxyl groups, modified polysiloxanes. with fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, these non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones comprising C 2 -C 24 alkyl groups, these silicone oils optionally comprising functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, preferably hydroxyl groups; as well as their mixtures. The non-volatile, non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I):

(I) in which:

R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical or a radical; amine or a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25 ° C. ° C is from 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 mVs) to 800,000 cSt, and a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 150,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol and better still less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol.

As non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of those for which: the substituents R 1 to R 5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is of 60,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by Dow Corning, and the product marketed under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker, - the substituents Ri to Re and X represents a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt, ie 350 cSt, for example the products marketed under the names Belsil DM100, Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, by Dow respectively. Corning, and - the substituents R | R "represents a methyl group, the X group represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.

Non-volatile fluorinated oils

The composition according to the invention may comprise, as the second oil, at least one non-volatile fluorinated oil.

By "fluorinated oil" is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. By way of example of fluorinated oils, mention may be made of fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones in particular as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds, alone or in mixtures.

By perfluorinated compounds is meant according to the invention compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted by fluorine atoms.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluorinated oils. By way of example of perfluorinated oils, mention may be made of perfluorodecalines, perfhioperhydrophenanthrenes and perfluorinated ether oils.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular Fiflow® products sold by Créations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil whose INCI name is perfluoperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference FIFLOW 220 by the company F2 Chemicals, or the perfluoro-polymethylisopropyl ether oil, for example sold under the reference FOMBLIN HC, by Solvay.

Preferably, the second oil is chosen from silicone oils, and especially from oils of formula (IV '), preferably of formula (IV'i), with in particular the oils according to variants (A) and (B), among the polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), as well as their mixtures.

The content of second (s) silicone (s) or fluorinated (s) nonvolatile (s) is at least 20% by weight, preferably between 20 to 50% by weight, preferably 25 to 50% by weight, preferably 45% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

ADDITIONAL VOLATILE OILS

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may also comprise at least one volatile oil. The volatile oil may especially be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar, and mixtures thereof.

By "volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure is between 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg) and preferably between 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably apolar, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: C8-C16 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) C8-C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one volatile oil, it is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

When the composition comprises at least one additional volatile oil, their content represents more particularly from 5 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

CIRES

As has been indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C. go up to 120 ° C.

The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

In a preferred manner, the measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and is then cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2® by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based or fluorinated and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.

Apolar wax

By "apolar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter δa at 25 ° C as defined below is equal to 0 (J / cm 3) / 2.

The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P. As an illustration of the apolar waxes that are suitable for the invention, it is especially possible to mention hydrocarbon-based waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, micro-waxes especially of polyethylene.

Polar wax

By "polar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter δaa 25 ° C is different from 0 (J / cm3) '/ 2.

In particular, "polar wax" is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space: - δD characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δρ characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; - δa is determined by the equation: δa = (δρ2 + δh2) '/ 2.

The parameters δρ, ôh, ôD and ôas expressed in (J / cm3) '2.

The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone.

Preferably, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon or silicone.

By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax. As hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred.

By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester waxes may be further hydroxylated.

By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

As silicone wax, mention may be made, for example, of mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane type (INCI name), for example the Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax product marketed by Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone type (INCI name), such as, for example, the Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax product. We can also mention silicone beeswax.

Ester waxes may be used as ester waxes, such as those chosen from: i) waxes of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 at 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C. In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate, may be used as ester wax. Such waxes are sold, for example, under the names "Rester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Stay Wax R 80 P®", or "Rester Wax R82H" by ROSTER REUNEN.

It is also possible to use a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and butylene glycol, such as the wax LICOWAX RPS FLARES (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by Clariant. ii) di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE. iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3 - (- OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group ( alkyl comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. (iv) It is also possible to mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils especially having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil or hydrogenated sunflower oil. hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. As waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, mention may be made of those sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57". v) It is also possible to mention waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax oxypropylene, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated Jojoba wax, sunflower wax, especially refined.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. As alcohol wax, mention may be made of mixtures of linear, saturated C30-C50 alcohols, for example the Performacol 550 Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

Preferably, if the composition comprises, the wax is chosen from apolar hydrocarbon waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, obtained or not by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; alcoholic waxes; as well as their mixtures.

The wax content advantageously ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

PASTY COMPOUNDS

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pasty compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Note that this pasty compound is immiscible with water. The previously detailed protocol for oils is valid in the case of a pasty compound as long as the mixture is at a temperature at which said pasty compound is in liquid form.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" means a reversible solid / liquid change-state compound, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty compound can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of pasty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and then is cooled by 100 ° C. at -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty fatty substance sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the pasty compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the pasty compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it presents at 2 ° C. consisting of a liquid fraction and a liquid fraction. solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.

The liquid fraction of the compound body measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty compound may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fats of plant origin.

The pasty compound (s) may be chosen in particular from: lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate or oxypropylenated lanolines; petroleum jelly (also known as petrolatum), polyol ethers selected from poly (C 2 -C 4) pentaerythritol ethers, fatty alcohol ethers and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention may be made of pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (5 EO) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO). (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof and more especially the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether mixture, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company VEVY, a mixture in which components are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, fluorinated compounds polymers or not, vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of (meth) h) alkyl acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, and homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; C30, the fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers are particularly considered with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol ) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed under the tradename ELFACOS ST9 by AKZO NOBEL, esters and polyesters,

Among the esters, particular mention is made of: the esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and diglycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for example bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 marketed under the reference SOFTISAN® 649 by the company Cremer Oléo., homopolymers of vinyl ester having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex), - arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand Waxenol 801 by ALZO, - stearyl heptanoate / stearyl caprylate mixtures, for example the DUB SOLIDE product marketed by Stearinerie Dubois, the phytos esters terol, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, - esters of pentaerythritol, - esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, where appropriate, esterified on their function (s) alcohol (s) or acid ( (s) free from acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may in particular be chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and their mixtures, vegetable butters such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aharushkarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax, for example, the one marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - vegetable oils that are totally or partially hydrogenated, for example hydrogenated soybean oil, oil hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil mixtures such as the hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aharushkarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, - esters of hydrogenated castor oil, such as Hydrolized castor dimer dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (V-L) sold by NISSHIN OIL, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the pasty compounds that are suitable for carrying out the invention are chosen from hydrocarbon compounds and comprise, in addition to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least oxygen atoms. The pasty compounds therefore do not comprise a silicon atom or a fluorine atom.

According to a preferred embodiment, the pasty compound is chosen from petrolatum, esters, or mixtures thereof. In particular, the pasty compound (s) are chosen from petrolatum, esters of glycerol oligomers, stearyl heptanoate / stearyl caprylate mixtures, butters of plant origin, vegetable oils which are totally or partially hydrogenated, esters of hydrogenated castor oils, or mixtures thereof.

If the composition comprises at least one pasty compound, their content varies from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

COLORING MATERIALS

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments and nacres.

By pigments, it is necessary to include white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in the lipophilic phase (s), intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposition carried out with the composition.

The pigments may be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

The pigments may be chosen from inorganic pigments, in particular monochromic pigments, organic lakes, pearlescent agents and goniochromatic pigments.

If the composition comprises, their content varies from 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The inorganic pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides and zirconium oxides. , chromium hydrate, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powders, copper powder, and mixtures thereof.

Organic lakes are organic pigments formed of a dye attached to a substrate.

Lacquers which are also called organic pigments may be chosen from the following materials and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine; organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane and fluoran dyes.

Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned those known under the following denominations: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange # 4, D & C Orange # 5, D & C Orange # 10, D & C Orange # 11, D & C Red # 6, D & C Red # 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6; the organic lakes may be insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic dyes , quinoliniques, triphenylmethane, fluoran, these dyes may comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.

Organic lacquers may also be supported by an organic carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example.

Among the organic lakes, mention may be made especially of those known under the following denominations: D & C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Strontium Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Potassium Lake, D & C Red No. 7 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 7 Barium Lake, D & C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D & C Red No. 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red No. 7 Zirconium Lake , D & C Red # 8 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red No. 10 Sodium Lake, D & C Red No. 19 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 19 Barium Lake, D & C Red No. 19 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red No. 21 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 21 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red No. 22 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 27 Aluminum Lak e, D & C Red No. 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D & C Red No. 27 Barium Lake, D & C Red No. 27 Calcium Lake, D & C Red No. 27 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 28 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 30 Lake, D & C Red No. 31 Calcium Lake, D & C Red No. 33 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 34 Calcium Lake, D & C Red 36 ° Lake, D & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake, D & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, D & C Green # 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Orange No. 10 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange No. 17 Barium Lake, D & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake .

Mention may also be made of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, orange DC 5, quinoline yellow.

The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned above are mentioned in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association. The contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

The pigments may also have undergone hydrophobic treatment. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as meticones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.

Mother-of-pearl

For the purposes of the present application, the term "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a organic dye including the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the nacres that can be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition, mention may be made of gold-colored nacres sold especially by BASF under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the nacres of brown hue sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma-lite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chroma-lite); gold-red tinted pearlescent agents marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

Goniochromatic pigments

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigment" denotes a pigment which makes it possible, when the composition is spread on a support, to obtain a color path in the plane a * b * of the corresponding CIE 1976 color space. at a variation Dh ° of the h ° angle angle of at least 20 ° when the angle of observation is varied with respect to the normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of incidence of 45 ° light.

The color path can be measured for example by means of an INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand spectrogoniorflectometer and GON 360 GONIOMETER reference, after the composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 μm by means of a spreader. automatically on an ERICHSEN brand contrast card and Typ 24/5, the measurement being made on the black background of the card.

The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen for example from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS , ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt,

Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their associations.

The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry at the chemical nature of the stacked layers.

Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained.

Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures are for example the following structures: Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; T1O2 / S1O2 / T1O2 and Ti02 / Al2O3 / TiO2, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by Merck.

The liquid crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible, for example, to use those sold by the company Chenix as well as those sold under the name Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.

As goniochromatic pigment, it is also possible to use certain nacres, pigments with effects on synthetic substrate, in particular substrate type alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide, aluminum, or interference flakes from a polyterephthalate film. By way of nonlimiting examples of goniochromatic pigments, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures, of SunShine® goniochromatic pigments marketed by Sun, Cosmicolor Celeste® by Toyo Aluminum K.K., Xirona® by Merck, Reflecks Multidimensions® by BASF.

MINERAL THICKENERS

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mineral thickener selected from clays, optionally modified, silicas, optionally modified, or mixtures thereof.

More particularly, if the composition contains, the content of mineral thickener is 0.2 to 15% by weight, expressed as active material, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the weight of composition i) Clays possibly modified

The clays are silicates containing a cation which may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family, as well as the vermiculite family, stevensite, chlorites. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

Preferably, use is made of organophilic clays, more particularly modified clays, such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

These clays are modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

It is thus possible to mention the hectorites modified with a quaternary amine, more specifically with a halide, such as a C 10 -C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, which may or may not include an aromatic group; as the hectorite modified with a halide, preferably a chloride, of di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; stearalkonium Hectorites such as the product Bentone 27 V.

Mention may also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold, inter alia, under the names Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by United catalyst by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quatemium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay

According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular modified organophilic hectorites, in particular halides, especially chlorides, of benzyldimethyl ammonium stearate, or of distearyl dimethyl ammonium.

According to a variant of the invention, the optionally modified clay content varies from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the weight. of the composition. These percentages are expressed as active ingredient. U) Potentially modified silicas

It is also possible to mention fumed silica which is preferably hydrophobic treated at the surface, the particle size of which is advantageously less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane. or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT.

The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least silica aerogel particles.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO 2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels suitable for the implementation of the invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 100 μm. 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, more preferably 5 to 20 μm and most preferably 5 to 15 μm.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 μm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvem. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better still 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.

The aerogels that can be used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name silica silylate).

Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.

Hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups will preferably be used. Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size. about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

The aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100 and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200 may also be mentioned.

The airgel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one thickening agent chosen from optionally modified silicas, they are chosen from hydrophobic silica airgel particles.

According to a variant of the invention, the optionally modified silica content varies from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. These values are expressed in weight of active ingredient.

Preferably, the inorganic thickeners are chosen from organophilic clays, in particular modified hectorites; hydrophobic treated fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogels, or mixtures thereof, and even more specifically at least one organophilic modified clay or at least one hydrophobic modified silica, in particular hydrophobic silica aerogels.

EXPENSES

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

"Filler" denotes a particle of organic or inorganic nature, colorless or white, solid, of any form, insoluble in the medium of the composition at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. These fillers are advantageously dispersed in the composition.

By "inorganic" is meant any compound whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom.

The fillers may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Such fillers are distinct from the mineral thickeners as well as previously described coloring agents.

The charges may be spherical, that is to say comprise at least one rounded general portion, preferably defining at least one portion of sphere, preferably defining internally a concavity or hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe , etc.) or lamellar.

Such fillers are advantageously chosen from: silica powders, such as the porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700 by the company MYOSHI; "SUNSPHERE® H51", "SUNSPHERE® H33" by the company ASAHI GLAS S; the amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA Sunsphere® H 33", "SA Sunsphere® H53" by the company Asahi Glass S. - acrylic (co) polymer powders, and their derivatives, in particular: the polymethyl methacrylate powder sold under the names COVABEAD® LH85 by the company WACKHERR, or MICROSPHERE M-100® by the company Matsumoto; * the polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder sold under the name DOW CORNING 5640 Microsponge® SKIN OIL ADSORBER by the company Dow Corning; GANZPEARL® GMP-0820 by the company GANZ CHEMICAL, * the allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder sold under the name POLY-PORE® L200, POLY-PORE® E200 by AMCOL Health and Beauty Solutions Inc. * the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 by the company Dow Corning; * The acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer powder, optionally crosslinked acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate crosslinked copolymer sold under the name TECHPOLYMER ACP-8C by the company SEKISUI PLASTICS, * the ethylene-acrylate copolymer powder, such as that sold under the name FLOBEADS® by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals company, * the hollow particles of acrylonitrile (co-) polymer sold under the name EXPANCEL by the company Expancel, or the microspheres marketed under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED® by the company Matsumoto; polyurethane powders, for example sold under the names PLASTIC POWDER D-400, PLASTIC POWDER CS-400, PLASTIC POWDER D-800 and PLASTIC POWDER T-75 by the company TOSHIKI; the silicone powders advantageously chosen from: the polymethylsilsesquioxane powders, in particular those sold under the name Tospearl, in particular Tospearl 145 A, by the company Momentive Performance Materials, the organopolysiloxane elastomer powders coated with silicone resin, in particular of silsesquioxane resin, such as the products sold under the name KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 by the company Shin Etsu, (INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer );

* Silicone elastomer powders such as the products sold under the name Trefil® Powder E-505C, Trefil® Powder E-506C by the company Dow Corning * the powders of organosilicone particles, for example in the form of bowls such as those described in US Pat. JP-2003 128 788, JP-A-2000-191789, or in the application EP1579841 and sold in particular by TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT. polyamide powders, such as Nylon®, in particular nylon 12; as the nylon powders sold under the name ORGASOL® 2002 EXS NAT COS by the company ARKEMA. powders of natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, and in particular starch powders, in particular corn, wheat or rice starch, crosslinked or otherwise, starch powders crosslinked with anhydride octenylsuccinate, sold under the name DRY-FLO® by the company National Starch, waxy maize starch powders, such as those sold under the names C * GEL 04201 by the company CARGILL, AMIDON DE MAIS B by the company ROQUETTE , and ORGANIC CORN STARCH by DRACO NATURAL PRODUCTS; spherical cellulose microparticles, such as CELLULOBEADS D-10, CELLULOBEADS D-5 and CELLULOBEADS USF sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO. the amino acid particles N-acylated at C8-C22 carbon atoms, the amino acid may be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine. For example AMIHOPE LL by the company AJINOMOTO or that marketed under the name CORUM 5105 S by CORUM.

- Perlite powders such as those sold by the company WORLD MINERALS under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040, or OpTiMat ™ 1430 OR or 2550 OR. EUROPERL EMP-2 and EUROPERL 1 by IMERYS - zeolites such as the products marketed by ZEOCHEM under the names ZEOFLAIR 300, ZEOFLAIR 200, ZEOFLAIR 100, X-MOL and X-MOL MT. the magnesium carbonate calcium particles, such as those sold by the company IMERYS under the name CALCIDOL, by the company LCW (Sensient) under the name CARBOMAT, by the company OMYA under the name OMYACARE S 60-AV.

It is also possible to use talc particles, for example sold under the names LUZENAC PHARMA M and UM by the company IMERYS, ROSE TALC and TALC SG-2000 by the company Nippon Talc; natural or synthetic mica particles, such as those sold under the names MICA M RP and SILK MICA by the company Merck, or the product sold under the name Sericite S-152-BC by the company Myoshi Kasei; calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; Hydroxyapatite; boron nitride; fluorphlogopite, and their mixtures.

The spherical fillers may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

If the composition according to the invention contains, the filler content (s) is preferably 0.5 and 15% by weight, more particularly 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

OPTIONAL ADDITIVES

The composition may comprise at least one optional additive chosen, for example, from film-forming agents; antioxidants; conservatives ; the perfumes ; the aromas ; neutralizers; emollients; organic thickeners; coalescing agents; moisturizers; vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without however limiting its scope. EXAMPLES EXAMPLES 1

The following compositions are prepared, the ingredients and their respective content are summarized in the table below (the contents are expressed as% by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated):

* Calculation: [ethylcellulose content / (ethylcellulose + octyldodecanol content)] * 100

Preparation of the compositions:

The pigments are ground in part of the octyldodecanol.

The ethylcellulose is dispersed in the rest of the octyldodecanol at 105 ° C., with Rayneri stirring (speed of agitation sufficient to have a vortex).

Once the ethylcellulose solubilized, the pigment / octyldodecanol mixture and the wax are added under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

Finally, after homogenization, the silicone is added at 105 ° C. with Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes.

The resultant mixture is hot cast into the lipstick mold preheated to 42 ° C and cooled to 4 ° C. Finally, the composition is removed from the mold and the sticks are packaged.

Evaluation of the compositions:

Color retention: The resistance index of the deposit obtained with each composition is determined according to the measurement protocol described below:

A support is prepared (rectangle 40 mm × 70 mm) consisting of an acrylic coating (hypoallergenic acrylic adhesive on polyethylene film sold under the name BLENDERME ref FH5000-55113 by the company 3M Santé) stuck on a layer of adhesive polyethylene foam on the opposite side to that on which is fixed the plaster (layer of foam sold under the name RE40X70EP3 of the company JOINT TECHNIQUE LYONNAIS IND).

The color L * 0a * 0b * 0 of the support is measured using a MINOLTA CR 300 colorimeter, on the acrylic coating side.

The support thus prepared is preheated on a heating plate maintained at a temperature of 40 ° C. so that the surface of the support is maintained at a temperature of 33 ° C. ± 1 ° C.

While leaving the support on the hot plate, the composition is applied to the entire non-adhesive surface of the support (i.e., on the surface of the acrylic coating) by spreading it with a brush to obtain a deposit of the composition of about 15 pm and then allowed to dry for 10 minutes.

After drying, the color L * a * b * of the film thus obtained is measured.

The color difference ΔΕ1 between the color of the film and the color of the bare substrate is then determined by the following relation. ΔΕ1 = (L * -Lo *) 2 + (a * - ao *) 2 + (b * - bo *) 2

The support is then adhered by its adhesive side (adhesive side of the foam layer) on an anvil with a diameter of 20 mm and provided with a screw thread.

A test piece of the support / deposit assembly is then cut using a punch with a diameter of 18 mm. The anvil is then screwed onto a press (MANUAL STATIF IMADA SV-2 from SOMECO) equipped with a dynamometer (IMADA DPS-20 from SOMECO).

On a 80 g / m2 white photocopy paper, draw a strip 33 mm wide and 29.7 cm long, draw a first line 2 cm from the edge of the sheet, then a second line at 5 cm the edge of the sheet, the first and second lines thus delimiting a box on the strip; then we have a first mark and a second mark located in the band at 8 cm and 16 cm markings respectively.

The white paper is placed on the base of the press and the specimen placed on the square of the paper strip is pressed at a pressure of approximately 300 g / cm 2 exerted for 30 seconds. Then the press is raised and the test piece is placed again just after the second line (hence beside the box), a pressure of approximately 300 g / cm 2 is again made and is moved rectilinearly on contact. performed, the paper with a speed of 1 cm / s, over the entire length of the tape.

After removal of the specimen, a portion of the deposit was transferred to the paper.

The color L * ', a *', b * 'of the deposit remained on the specimen. The color difference ΔΕ2 is then determined between the color of the deposit remaining on the specimen with respect to the color of the bare support by the following relation. ΔΕ2 = (L * '- Lo *) 2 + (a *' - ao *) 2 + (b * '- bo *) 2 The strength index of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is equal to the ratio: 100ΧΔΕ2 / ΔΕ1

The measurement is carried out on 6 supports in succession and the resistance value corresponds to the average of the 6 measurements obtained with the 6 supports.

Stability:

The stability of the compositions is evaluated by keeping the composition for 72 hours at room temperature and observing whether there is exudation of one or more oils.

Hardness :

The hardness is measured according to the protocol defined previously in the description.

Brightness:

The gloss of the deposit obtained on the lips with the composition 6 can be evaluated by means of a POLKA polarimetric camera SEI-M-0216-POLK-02 and a SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0 Chromosphere as described in FIG. the application FR 2 829 344.

The gloss is evaluated immediately after application, and 1 hour after application of the formula.

The formulation is applied to the lips of a panel of six subjects with thick, clear lips.

The brightness of the deposits obtained with the compositions can also be evaluated visually by applying the composition to the lips, immediately after application, and 1 hour after application. Results:

EXAMPLES 2

The following compositions are prepared, the ingredients and their respective content are summarized in the table below (the contents are expressed as% by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated):

* Calculation: [ethylcellulose content / (ethylcellulose content + octyldodecanol)] * 100 ** Oil compatible with octyldodecanol.

Preparation of the compositions:

The pigments are ground in part of the octyldodecanol.

The ethylcellulose is dispersed in the rest of the octyldodecanol, coco caprylate / caprate, at 105 ° C., with Rayneri stirring (speed of agitation sufficient to have a vortex).

Once the ethylcellulose solubilized, the pigment / octyldodecanol mixture and the wax are added under the same conditions of temperature and stirring.

Finally, after homogenization, the silicone is added at 105 ° C. with Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes.

Cool with Rayneri stirring to room temperature. Results:

Viscosity:

The viscosity at 25 ° C. of the compositions was evaluated according to the protocol described above. Stability:

The stability of the compositions is evaluated by keeping the composition for 72 hours at room temperature and observing whether a phase shift of the oily phase and / or a sedimentation of the pigments and / or nacres occurs.

Claims (19)

1. Cosmetic composition comprising at least 2% by weight of alkylcellulose, relative to the weight of the composition, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3, at least one first oil. non-volatile polar hydrocarbon, • at least 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of at least one second oil incompatible with the first oil or oils, chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, from non-volatile oils fluorinated, or combinations thereof, • optionally at least a third non-volatile oil different from the first oil or oils selected from polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils, the silicone oils different from the second or oils, phenylated not comprising a dimethicone fragment, or mixtures thereof, at least one polar or apolar wax, less than 5% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim characterized in that the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of alkylcellulose is between 2 and 16% by weight, more particularly from 4 to 16% by weight, and preferably between 4 and 10% by weight. , relative to the weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from C 10 -C 26 alcohols; saturated or unsaturated, nonaromatic, linear or branched mono- or di-esters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups; aromatic mono- or di-esters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups; saturated or unsaturated, nonaromatic, linear or branched triesters comprising less than 60 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups; vegetable oils; as well as their mixtures; preferably from C10-C26 alcohols; as well as their mixtures. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first (s) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) polar (s) represents from 20 to 55% by weight, of preferably from 22 to 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio (alkylcellulose / alkylcellulose + first (s) oil (s)) 100 varies from 10 to 60% and preferably from 10 to 50%. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second (s) oil (s) nonvolatile (s) silicone (s) not compatible (s) with the first (s) oil (s) (S) Non-volatile (s) hydrocarbon (s) polar (s) are chosen from non-volatile silicone oils non-phenylated, nonvolatile silicone oils phenyl containing at least one dimethicone fragment, and combinations thereof. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second (s) non-volatile oil (s) silicone (s) represents from 20 to 50% by weight, preferably from 25 to 45% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least a third non-volatile oil, hydrocarbon or silicone, compatible with the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oils or polar; preferably chosen from: the first oils in so far as they are compatible with the second or the second silicone or fluorinated oils, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils different from the first oils, in particular chosen from linear mono- or di-esters, or branched, saturated or unsaturated, nonaromatic, comprising more than 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or two ether groups; saturated or unsaturated, nonaromatic, linear or branched triesters comprising at least 60 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups, and mixtures thereof; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid; polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid (s) triglyceride (s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, * non-volatile silicone oils other than the second or more phenylated oils not comprising a dimethicone moiety; non-volatile non-volatile hydrocarbon oils; and mixtures thereof. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of the third (s) oil (s) is such that the content of the first oily phase represents 5 and 40% by weight, preferably between 10 and 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, silicone, or combinations thereof, preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of volatile oil (s) represents from 5 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight. of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, polar or apolar, and preferably at least one apolar hydrocarbon wax is present. 14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax content varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, even more particularly between 5 and 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one pasty compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably hydrocarbon. 16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of pasty compound ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 2% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition, and advantageously is anhydrous. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff, in particular chosen from pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof. 19. A method of making up and / or care of the lips of applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.