FR3042117A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR AFRICAN AND AFRO-METISSEES SKIN COMPRISING A COMBINATION OF WAX OF CARNAUBA, INSAPONIFIABLES OF SHEA BUTTER, AMINO ACIDS AND SUGARS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cross-linked cosmetic compositions comprising a combination of carnauba wax, unsaponifiables of shea butter, urea amino acids and sugars and their use for the care of the skin, in particular for skins. Sensitive and more particularly for skins of African origin and Afro-mixed, especially the skins of babies and children of African descent and afro-mixed.

Description

Cosmetic composition for African and afro-mixed skin comprising a combination of camauba wax, unsaponifiables of shea butter, amino acids and sugars.

The present invention relates to cross-linked cosmetic compositions comprising a combination of camauba wax, unsaponifiables of shea butter, urea amino acids and sugars and their use for the care of the skin, particularly for sensitive skin and more particularly for skins of African origin and afro-mixed, especially the skins of babies and children of African descent and afro-mixed.

In France, every year, out of 800,000 births, 300,000 babies are of African origin or afro - mixed (Source: 2013 AFDPHE activity report). By African origin we mean Africa outside the Maghreb and by Afro-mixed origin we mean a child of whom at least one of a biological parent is of African origin. By skin of African origin or Afro - mixed, we mean black skin, more or less hyperpigmented according to geographical origin (eg Black Africa (Ivory Coast, Cameroon, Congo, Togo, Senegal ...). ), Southern Africa (Angola, Kenya, South Africa ...), French Guiana, West Indies, Meeting Island, Afro-American ...) and Parent Genetics. Genetically programmed to live in a hot and humid environment, the skin of African origin or Afro - mixed is poorly adapted to cold and dry climates such as the climate of northern Europe such as the French climate (metropolis).

Afro-mixed skin of African origin is a dry skin more dehydrated than malnutrition, hypersensitive to temperature variations and the humidity of the ambient air. This dehydration is related to an exaggerated Water Insensitive Loss. Insensible Water Loss is the natural evaporation of skin water during the natural cycle of water migration into the skin. A skin of Caucasian origin loses on average 300 to 400 ml of water a day. This loss is offset by nutritional intake. Cold and low humidity increase this natural evaporation, which can be up to 5 times greater for skins of African origin or afro - mixed in winter under the French climate (metropolis).

Thus the skin of African origin or afro - mixed is a sensitive skin which is declined from the "normal" dry skin to the eczematous skin at the limit of the pathology.

Consequence: The children, who already have a particularly fragile skin whatever their geographical and genetic origin, when they are of African origin or afro-mixed have the skin particularly sensitive which pulls, tingles, itches and reacts to everything with excess, particularly in cold weather.

There is therefore a need today for people of African or African descent, and in particular for babies and children of African or Afro-ethnic origin, living in a cold and dry climate such as climate and climate. Europe, and in particular France, to have cosmetic compositions capable of preventing and / or treating disorders such as itching, heating, tingling sensation and / or feeling of tightness and preventing cutaneous dehydration and / or restoring cutaneous hydration . To date, no brand of children's cosmetics offers rehydrating, treating and soothing care adapted to these skins. It is this technical problem and this need which the Applicant today responds with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

Indeed, the applicant has developed a new cosmetic composition which comprises a combination of camauba wax, unsaponifiables of shea butter, amino acids, urea and sugars which acts as a decoy that changes the perception sensory receptors of the skin on the temperature conditions and on the degree of ambient humidity. Result: Water-insensitive loss decreases, the skin becomes less dehydrated in cold weather and the skin disorders associated with this dehydration and sensitivity (itching, heating, tingling sensation, feeling of tightness ..) decrease or disappear.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention operate in 3 steps:

Step 1: Scramble skin temperature and humidity sensors with Camauba wax;

Step 2: Increase the hygroscopy in situ of the skin thanks to a sweet solution. This solution contains the sugars (glucose, fructose, dextrin,) and amino acids (glutamic acid, aspartic acid, alanine) naturally present in the skin's natural moisturizing film (the hydrolipidic film);

Step 3: Soothe skin inflammation with unsaponifiable shea butter.

In a first subject of the invention, the Applicant has developed a cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises at least one combination of camauba wax (Copemicia cerifera), unsaponifiables of shea butter, amino acids urea and sugars.

The ingredients of said cosmetic composition are combined in effective amounts. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "effective amount" is understood to mean an amount sufficient to obtain the expected effect, which can be determined by those skilled in the art. Preferred amounts are indicated in the remainder of this text for each ingredient of said cosmetic composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises water. Preferably, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise between 30 and 98% of water, preferably between 38 and 97% of water by weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application and are preferably formulated as a suspension in a solid fatty substance, or emulsion.

By emulsion is meant according to the present invention a pseudoemulsion (dispersion of two immiscible phases by means of gelling agents) or an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion or a multiple water-in-oil-in-water emulsion.

In all that follows or the above, the percentages are given by weight unless otherwise indicated.

By carnauba wax (Copemicia cerifera) is meant according to the present invention a wax from the leaves of a palm tree in northeastern Brazil, Copemicia prunifera. It is usually in the form of yellow-brown chips, brittle, very fragrant. This wax is obtained by threshing the leaves of Copemicia prunifera, followed by refining and sometimes bleaching. Carnauba wax contains mainly fatty acid esters (80-85%), fatty alcohols (10-15%) acids (3-6%) and hydrocarbon chains (1-3%). A special feature of carnauba wax is the presence of a high level of diol esters (about 20%), hydroxylated fatty acids (about 6%) and cinnamic acid (about 10%), an antioxidant.

By unsaponifiables of shea butter is meant according to the present invention the residual fraction of shea butter which is insoluble in water (but soluble in organic solvents) after saponification. More particularly, the unsaponifiable materials, according to the definition given in standard NF T 60-205-1 which describes the method which allows the determination of the content (reference method), constitute all the substances present in shea butter which, after saponification thereof with potassium hydroxide and extraction with a specified solvent, are not volatile under the specified operating conditions.

Thus, as specified in this standard, unsaponifiable materials include natural fat constituents such as sterols, hydrocarbons and higher aliphatic and terpene alcohols, as well as foreign organic substances extracted by the solvent and not volatile at 103 ° C. C (eg mineral oils) that they may possibly contain.

The term "amino-acids" is preferably intended to denote, according to the present invention, alanine, glutamic acid and / or aspartic acid alone or in combination. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises alanine, glutamic acid and aspartic acid.

By sugars, it is intended to designate preferably according to the present invention fructose, glucose, sucrose and / or dextrin, alone or in combination. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises fructose, glucose, sucrose and dextrin. Preferably, according to the invention, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention also comprise hexylene glycol, caprylic / capric triglycerides, butter of shea, shea oil, tocopherol acetate, decyl glucoside, pentylene glycol, and / or urea alone or in combination.

In a preferred manner according to the invention, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise a combination of camauba wax (Copemicia cerifera), phospolipids, unsaponifiables of shea butter, alanine, urea, fructose and glucose. , sucrose, dextrin, hexylene glycol, caprylic / capric triglycerides, shea butter, shea oil, tocopherol acetate, decyl glucoside, pentylene glycol, urea , glutamic acid and aspartic acid. Preferably, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention also comprise water.

In a preferred manner according to the invention, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise between 0.3 and 12.5% of camauba wax (Copemicia cerifera), between 0.6 and 30% of unsaponifiables of shea butter, between 0.0027 and 0.09% alanine, between 0.03 and 1% urea, between 0.3 and 10% fructose, between 0.3 and 10% glucose, between 0.03 and 1% of sucrose, between 0.03 and 1% of dextrin, between 1.25 and 41% of hexylene glycol, between 0.75 and 25% of caprylic / capric triglycerides, between 1.4 and 70% of shea butter between 1 and 50% of shea oil, between 0.5 and 5% of tocopherol acetate, between 0.0375 and 1.25% of decyl glucoside, between 0.0375 and 1.25% of pentylene glycol , between 0.0027 and 0.09% glutamic acid, between 0.0027 and 0.09% aspartic acid and between 35 and 97% water.

A particularly preferred cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 4.5 and 5.5% of camauba wax (Copernicia cerifera), between 2.5 and 3.5% of unsaponifiables of shea butter, between 0.035 and 0.045% of alanine , between 0.35 and 0.45% of urea, between 3.5 and 4.5% of fructose, between 3.5 and 4.5% of glucose, between 0.35 and 0.45% of sucrose, between 0. , 35 and 0.45% of dextrin, between 16 and 17% of hexylene glycol, between 9 and 11% of caprylic / capric triglycerides, between 6.5 and 7.5% of shea butter, between 8.5 and 7.5% of and 9.5% of shea oil, between 0.5 and 1.5% of tocopherol acetate, between 0.45 and 0.55% of decyl glucoside, between 0.45 and 0.55% of pentylene glycol, between 0.035 and 0.045% of glutamic acid, between 0.035 and 0.045% of aspartic acid and between 37 and 39% of water. This cosmetic composition can be added to other existing cosmetic compositions. This addition of the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be done typically in proportions of 1 to 99%, preferably between 1 and 10% and makes it possible to give or increase the characteristics of hydration, prevention of dehydration, prevention or treatment of skin disorder of said cosmetic composition available on the market.

A second subject of the invention relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating a skin disorder in a sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a sensation discomfort, the feeling of discomfort being preferably itching, heating, tingling sensation and / or tugging sensation.

In a preferred manner according to the invention, the skin disorder results in the manifestation of one or more visible cutaneous signs. As representative, visible cutaneous signs may include non-pathological manifestations of hyperkeratosis and xerosis and / or non-pathological redness in skins of Afro-mixed origin. These skin disorders are more common in the most exposed areas of the body, namely the hands, feet, face, and scalp. This cutaneous reactivity is conventionally translated by the manifestation of signs of discomfort in response to the contacting of the subject with a triggering element that can have various origins. It is furthermore known that the risk of occurrence of these skin reactions is exacerbated in the case of sensitive skin. Thus, the appearance of the signs of discomfort, which appear in the minutes following the contacting of the subject with the triggering element, is one of the essential characteristics of sensitive skin. It is mainly dysaesthetic sensations. By dysaesthesic sensations are meant more or less painful sensations felt in a cutaneous area such as tingling, tingling, itching, warming up, discomfort, tightness, etc. These subjective signs most often exist in the absence of visible clinical signs such as desquamations.

Sensitive skin is different from allergic skin. Its reactivity is not an immunological process and usually results only in dysesthetic sensations. As opposed to skins described as allergic, the reactivity of sensitive skin is not an immunological process that is to say does not occur in response to the presence of an allergen. In the context of the present invention, the sensitive skin under consideration does not manifest an inflammatory character and does not belong to the pathology. The uses according to the present invention are purely for cosmetic and non-therapeutic purposes. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "skin disorder" covers the sensations of discomfort, in a subject including sensitive skin, as well as the visible and unsightly temporary skin signs likely to affect the same subject. As previously stated, feelings of discomfort can be itching, heating, tingling and / or tightness. These undesirable disorders particularly concern people with African skin and / or afro-mixed origin, especially children and babies; these skins will present these sensations and clinical signs much more quickly and frequently than other types of skin. For obvious reasons, it would be advantageous to have compositions capable of preventing and / or treating these manifestations of undesirable skin disorders.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sensitive skin" covers irritable skin and intolerant skin.

In the sense of the present invention, "to prevent" means to reduce the risk of manifestation of a phenomenon. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "treating" means providing for a physiological dysfunction and more generally for reducing or even eliminating an undesirable disorder and the manifestation of which is in particular a consequence of this dysfunction. As stated above, the compositions, methods and uses according to the invention thus prove to be particularly effective in protecting and / or treating sensitive skin, in particular skin of African origin and / or of afro-mixed origin, especially children and preferably babies.

Preferably, the invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition to prevent skin dehydration and / or restore cutaneous hydration.

In a particularly preferred manner, the compositions according to the invention and their uses are intended for skins of African and afro-mixed origin. Even more particularly preferably, the compositions according to the invention and their uses are intended for the skins of babies and youngsters. children, especially the skins of babies.

Advantageously, a method of the invention topically can comprise the application of a composition according to the invention.

According to an alternative embodiment, the method of the invention may comprise the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic composition available on the market and added with the cosmetic composition according to the invention. This addition of the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be done typically in proportions of 1 to 99%, preferably 1 to 10%, and makes it possible to give or increase the characteristics of hydration, prevention of dehydration, prevention or treatment of skin disorder of said cosmetic composition available on the market.

A topical cosmetic method according to the invention may be used daily for example, for example for example a single administration per day or a twice daily administration, for example once in the morning and once the evening. A topical cosmetic process according to the invention may be carried out over a period of time varying from one week to several weeks, or even several months, this period being able to be repeated after periods of non-treatment for several months or even several months. years. By way of example, the topical administration of a compound according to the invention may be repeated, for example, 2 to 3 times a day, or more, and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4 weeks, even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of interruption if necessary.

In the following description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form "between ... and ..." include the specified lower and upper bounds. The following examples are presented as non-limiting illustrations of the field of the invention.

Figure 1: Ex Vivo Analysis of the Moisture of the Skin with the Composition 1 EXAMPLE

Example 1: basic cosmetic composition (which can be incorporated in a cream base, oil, lotion for example) (expressed as% by weight of the composition) AQUA (WATER) 38.00 HEXYLENE GLYCOL 16.69 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC - TRIGLYCERIDE 10 , 00 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) OIL 9.00 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 7.00 COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX 5.00 FRUCTOSE 4.00 GLUCOSE 4.00 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER ONE S APONIFIABLE 3.00 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 1.00 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 0.50 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.50 SUCROSE 0.40 UREA 0.40 DEXTRIN 0.40 ALANIN 0.04 GLUTAMIC ACID 0.04 ASPARTIC ACID 0.04

EXAMPLE 2 Moisturizing Body Milk (expressed in% by weight of the composition) AQUA (WATER) 87.962 HEXYLENE GLYCOL 2.294 SODIUM ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 1.400 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 1,000 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) OIL 0.900 BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.870 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA ) BUTTER 0.700 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0.700 LECITHIN 0.600 capryloylglycine 0.500 Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) Wax 0.500 GLYCERIN 0.400 FRUCTOSE 0.400 GLUCOSE 0.400 LACTITOL 0.300 XYLITOL 0.300 Butyrospermum parkii (SHEA) BUTTER Unsaponifiables 0.300 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.100 dehydroacetic acid 0.080 Xylitylglucoside 0.063 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 0.050 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.050 SUCROSE 0.040 UREA 0.040 DEXTRIN 0.040 ALANIN 0.004 GLUTAMIC ACID 0.004 ASPARTIC ACID 0.004

EXAMPLE 3 Moisturizing Oil for the Body (expressed in% by weight of the Composition) BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) OIL 96.180 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 1.020 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 1,000 AQUA (WATER) 0.760 HEXYLENE GLYCOL 0.334 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 0.200 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA ) BUTTER 0.140 COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX 0.100 FRUCTOSE 0.080 GLUCOSE 0.080 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) UNSAPONIFIABLE BUTTER 0.060 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 0.010 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.010 SUCROSE 0.008 UREA 0.008 DEXTRIN 0.008 ALANIN 0.001 GLUTAMIC ACID 0.001 ASPARTIC ACID 0.001

Example 4: micellar water without rinsing (expressed in% by weight of the composition) AQUA (WATER) 95.11625 HEXYLENE GLYCOL 0.9419 BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.8700 SODIUM COCOYL APPLE AMINO ACIDS 0.7650 CAPRYLOYL GLYCINE 0.5000 GLYCERIN 0, 4000 LACTITOL 0.3000 XYLITOL 0.3000 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0.1500 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC - TRIGLYCERIDE 0.1000 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) OIL 0.0900 DEHYDROACETIC ACID 0.0800 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 0.0700 XYLITYLGLUCOSIDE 0, 0625 COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX 0.0500 FRUCTOSE 0.0400 GLUCOSE 0.0400 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER ONE S APONIFIABLE 0.0300 TETRASODIUM EDTA 0.0150 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.0100 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 0.0050 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.0050 SUCROSE 0.0040 UREA 0.0040 DEXTRIN 0.0040 ALANINE 0.0004 GLUTAMIC ACID 0.0004 ASPARTIC ACID 0.0004

EXAMPLE 5 Ex Vivo Test Protocol of the Composition of Example 1 on Skin Explants Maintained in Survival

The protocol diagram: 1. Recovery of normal skin explants from two donors following abdominal surgery operations. The chosen subjects are of phototype IV or V, so have the skin matte or black. 2. Preparation of the skin explants in: - Control skin and treated skin, maintained at room temperature. - Control skin 4 ° C and treated skin 4 ° C. These skins were placed in a refrigerator at + 4 ° C. The control skin is a skin on which no product has been applied. On the treated skin, the composition according to Example 1 was applied. 3. Analysis of skin explants with Skin-station®: - Measurement of skin hydration; - Measurement of the temperature of the skin. The measurements were carried out every 15 minutes for 1 hour. • Test results:

The test results are shown in Figure 1. - Control, Treated: Skin exfoliants maintained at room temperature. - Control 4 ° C, treated 4 ° C: Skin exfoliants placed in a refrigerator at + 4 ° C. These results are correlated with the temperature (in degrees C) of the skin measured every 15 minutes and listed in the table below. Donor result 1

Donor result 2

Conclusion: The application of the composition according to the invention makes it possible to maintain and even increase the hydration of the treated skin in both donors, at room temperature but also during the decrease in temperature at 4 ° C.

Claims (10)

claims 1. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises at least one combination of camauba wax (Copernicia cerifera), unsaponifiables of shea butter, amino acids, urea and sugars. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the amino acids are alanine, glutamic acid and / or aspartic acid, alone or in combination and / or the sugars are fructose, glucose, sucrose and / or dextrin, alone or in combination. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that it further comprises hexylene glycol, caprylic / capric triglycerides, shea butter, shea oil, tocopherol acetate, decyl glucoside, pentylene glycol, alone or in combination. 4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 to 3 characterized in that it comprises a combination of camauba wax (Copernicia cerifera), unsaponifiables of shea butter, alanine, urea, fructose, glucose, sucrose, dextrin, hexylene glycol, caprylic / capric triglycerides, shea butter, shea oil, tocopherol acetate, decyl glucoside, pentylene glycol, glutamic acid and aspartic acid. 5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises between 0.3 and 12.5% of carnauba wax (Copernicia cerifera), between 0.6 and 30% of unsaponifiables of shea butter, between 0.0027 and 0.09% alanine, between 0.03 and 1% urea, between 0.3 and 10% fructose, between 0.3 and 10% glucose, between 0.03 and 1 % of sucrose, between 0.03 and 1% of dextrin, between 1.25 and 41% of hexylene glycol, between 0.75 and 25% of caprylic / capric triglycerides, between 1.4 and 70% of butter of shea butter, between 1 and 50% of shea oil, between 0.5 and 5% of tocopherol acetate, between 0.0375 and 1.25% of decyl glucoside, between 0.0375 and 1.25% of pentylene glycol, between 0.0027 and 0.09% glutamic acid, between 0.0027 and 0.09% aspartic acid and between 35 and 97% water. 6. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for preventing and / or treating a skin disorder in a sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a sensation of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort being preferably itching, heating, tingling sensation and / or tugging sensation. 7. Use according to claim 6 characterized in that the skin disorder results in the manifestation of one or more visible cutaneous signs. 8. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for preventing cutaneous dehydration and / or restoring cutaneous hydration. 9. Use according to claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to claims 1 to 5 is intended for skins of African origin and afro-mixed skin. 10. Use according to claims 6 to 9 characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to claims 1 to 5 is intended for the skins of babies and children.