FR2967911A1 - Fluid cosmetic composition, useful for the make up and/or care of skin and/or lips, comprises, in a medium, at least one fatty phase containing at least one ethylene block copolymer, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil ester, wax and volatile oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Fluid cosmetic composition comprises, in a medium, at least one fatty phase containing: (a) at least one ethylene block copolymer (ethylene block polymer), containing at least a first block and at least a second block; (b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil ester comprising at least 16C and having a molecular weight of less than 650 g/mole; (c) at least 5 wt.% of wax; and (d) 0-5 wt.%, preferably 0-2 wt.% of volatile oil, where the flash point is less than 80[deg] C, with respect to the total weight of the composition, which has a viscosity at 20[deg] C of 1-25 Pa.s, preferably 3-16 Pa.s. Fluid cosmetic composition comprises, in a medium, at least one fatty phase containing: (a) at least one ethylene block copolymer (ethylene block polymer), containing at least a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) of >= 40[deg] C and is obtained completely or partly from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from the monomers has a glass transition temperature of >= 40[deg] C, and at least a second block having a glass transition temperature of = 20[deg] C and is obtained completely or partly from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of = 20[deg] C, where the first block and the second block are connected together by a statistical intermediate segment comprising at least one of the first monomers constituted of the first block and at least one of second monomers constituted of the second sequence, and the block copolymer has polydispersity index I of greater than 2; (b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil ester comprising at least 16C and having a molecular weight of less than 650 g/mole; (c) at least 5 wt.% of wax; and (d) 0-5 wt.%, preferably 0-2 wt.% of volatile oil, where the flash point is less than 80[deg] C, with respect to the total weight of the composition, which has a viscosity at 20[deg] C of 1-25 Pa.s, preferably 3-16 Pa.s. An independent claim is included for preparing a composition comprising at least a wax, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil and at least one copolymer, comprising: heating at a temperature at least equal to the transition temperature of the solid state to the liquid state of the wax having very high melting point, at least a part of the different constituents of the composition of which wax, eater oil and copolymer, optionally adding the other part of its constituents, then kneading the mixture obtained during at least a part of its cooling at 20[deg] C.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of the skin or lips, in particular lips. Makeup and / or care compositions for the skin and / or the lips conventionally contain a film-forming polymer known to improve the color fastness of the deposits made with these compositions on the keratin material in question, and in particular, when acts of a lipstick. In particular, specific film-forming polymers namely comprising at least two sequences, such as one of the sequences has a glass transition temperature greater than 20 ° C (so-called rigid sequence) and the other sequence has a lower glass transition temperature or equal to 20 ° C (so-called flexible sequence) are implemented in the document EP 1 882 709, to prepare cosmetic compositions which have properties of both strength and gloss. In the document EP 1 884 229, cosmetic compositions comprising a copolymer of this particular type, a non-volatile oil and a gloss oil are furthermore proposed. Such compositions, although having a good performance and a satisfactory gloss, do not escape the disadvantage of generating adhesive. The introduction of wax (es) into a liquid lipstick composition is known to allow the viscosity of this composition to be increased. However, the quantity of acceptable wax (es) remains limited because the corresponding composition quickly becomes too thick even too hard and therefore not conducive to the formation of a suitable deposit (sufficiently thick and unctuous) on the lips. There remains, therefore, a need for makeup and / or care compositions for the skin and / or the lips which make it possible to constitute a thick and shiny deposit (and advantageously of persistent gloss over time), endowed with a long held in color and that is comfortable and not sticky. In addition, consumers are constantly waiting for cosmetic compositions with texture and / or original properties. Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the implementation under specific conditions and simultaneously of at least one wax and at least one specific copolymer, makes it possible to access a composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin and / or lips, having an original texture and furthermore having a reduced tights, or even an absence of tack when applied to the skin or lips. Such a cosmetic make-up composition and / or the care of the skin and / or the lips makes it possible to obtain a deposit on the lips that also has good cosmetic properties and in particular high gloss and shine retention over time. Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a fluid cosmetic composition, in particular for the make-up and / or care of the skin and / or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising a) at least one block ethylenic copolymer (also called sequenced ethylenic polymer), containing at least a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) of greater than or equal to 40 ° C and originating in whole or in part from one or several first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and at least a second sequence having a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these mono mothers has a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20 ° C, said first sequence and said second sequence being interconnected by a random intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first sequence and at least one of said second monomers constituents of the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2, b) at least one hydrocarbon-based, non-volatile ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol, c) at least 5% by weight of wax (s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and d) from 0 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0 to 2% by weight of volatile oil (s) (s) whose flash point is less than 80 ° C, relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition having at 20 ° C a viscosity of between 1 and 25 Pa.s and preferably between re 2 and 18 Pa.s. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition and may in particular be anhydrous. By "anhydrous" is meant in particular that the water is preferably not added deliberately in the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. As stated above, a composition according to the invention has the particular advantage of having a fluid texture, (that is to say, in particular being in creamy form), or even liquid which is particularly pleasant to the application and not sticky. More specifically, the composition according to the invention is fluid at 20 ° C. Fluid means a composition that is not solid, and it is possible to measure the viscosity. Protocol for the measurement of the viscosity: The measurement of the viscosity is generally carried out at 20 ° C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a mobile No. 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the composition (time at which a stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile) is observed, at a shear of 200 s -1. The composition has a viscosity at 20 ° C. of between 1 and 25 Pa.s and preferably of between 2 and 18 Pa.s. Preferably, the viscosity at 20 ° C of a composition according to the invention is between 3 to 16 Pa.s.

Likewise, a composition according to the invention is characterized by a particular evolution of its texture when it is subjected to a specific thermal cycle. Thus, it is able to evolve from a fluid texture to a non-fluid or still solid texture.

More specifically, a composition according to the invention is such that when it is subjected to a thermal cycle comprising: a step of heating said composition from a temperature of about 20 ° C. to a temperature of about 100 ° C. or at the liquid solid transition temperature of the wax. having the highest melting point present in this composition, - a quenching cooling step at a temperature of 0 ° C (i.e. placing the composition at a temperature of 0 ° C without mixing or without stirring it during this cooling step), the composition being maintained at the temperature of 0 ° C for one hour, and - a heating step of bringing the composition of the previous step to the temperature of 20 ° C for 24 h. said composition is found to have a solid texture and preferably a hardness greater than or equal to 30 Nm-1 at the temperature of 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

As is apparent from the above, in the case where the composition comprises more than one wax, it is the highest melting temperature of the waxes considered that will be taken into consideration and called "solid state transition temperature. in the liquid state ". In the remainder of the description, the transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state will be referred to as the "solid-liquid transition temperature". The subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a fluid composition comprising at least one wax, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol and least one block ethylenic copolymer (also called sequenced ethylenic polymer), containing at least a first block having. a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40 ° C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a higher glass transition temperature or at 40 ° C, and at least one second block having a glass transition temperature of 20 ° C or less and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C, said first sequence and said second sequence being interconnected by a random intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first sequence and at least one said second monomers constituting the second sequence, and said block copolymer having a subscript with a polydispersity I greater than 2, in which at least one temperature is equal to the transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state of the wax having the highest melting point, at least a portion of the various constituents of the composition, of which said wax, said ester oil and said copolymer, the additional constituents are optionally added, and then the mixture obtained is kneaded during at least a portion of its cooling at a temperature of approximately 20 ° C. vs. According to a preferred variant, a composition according to the invention can be obtained by subjecting the fatty phase constituting and containing at least said wax, said ester oil and said copolymer to a shear, preferably continuously, during the step cooling. Preferably, this shearing is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to the transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state of the wax with the highest melting point. This results in a particular organization of the fatty phase in the composition which is characterized by a fluid texture, in particular with a viscosity of between 1 and 25 Pa · s, even between 2 and 18 Pa · s and preferably between 3 and 16. Not.

Preparation method In order to obtain the particular properties of the compositions which are the subject of the present application, they must be prepared according to a process comprising at least one controlled shearing step during the cooling phase, preferably continuously, of all or part of the fatty phase structured by the silicone compound, advantageously at a temperature greater than or equal to the solid-liquid transition temperature of the wax with the highest melting point. Thus, the present invention further relates to a process for the preparation of a composition according to the present invention comprising at least one step of controlled Shear during the cooling phase, preferably continuously, of all or part of the fatty phase structured by the silicone compound, preferably at a temperature greater than or equal to the liquid solid transition temperature of the wax with the highest melting point. This mixing can be achieved using any equipment or combination of equipment to control a mechanical action. Such equipment is illustrated below in more detail. As specified above, a composition according to the invention contains at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol. More preferably, it is octyldodecylenéopentanoate. The subject of the invention is also, in another aspect, a cosmetic process for making up the skin and / or the lips, comprising applying to the skin and / or the lips, and in particular the lips, a composition such that previously defined.

COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION As can be seen from the foregoing, a composition according to the invention has the specificity of being in a fluid form at 20 ° C. which can be characterized by its viscosity, and if it is heated and prepared by quenching (as described above). ) to be in solid form at 20 ° C, characterized by its hardness. The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (20 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The first so-called fluid texture is observed when the composition according to the invention is especially prepared considering an extrusion during the mixing of the various ingredients constituting in particular its fatty phase. The second so-called solid texture is for its part observed when a composition according to the invention is subjected to the temperature cycle described above and consisting in particular of heating at at least a temperature of 100 ° C., cooling following 0 ° C. , especially by quenching for 1 hour, and then warming to room temperature. Thus, when it is subjected to the temperature cycle described above, a composition according to the invention may advantageously have a hardness greater than or equal to 30 Nm-1 at the temperature of 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). .

Protocol for measuring the hardness: The hardness of a composition prepared by quenching cooling or a composition according to the invention heated and quenched can be measured according to the following protocol The composition is stored at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before the measure of the hardness. The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of preferably a cylindrical product of revolution using a rigid tungsten wire. 250 gm diameter by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm-1, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by INDELCOCHATILLON. The measurement is repeated three times and averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters). The hardness is converted to Nm-1 by the following equation: (Yx 10-3 x 9.8) / L For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is kept at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement. As is apparent from the above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase and in particular at least one solid fatty phase containing at least 5% by weight of wax (s) relative to its total weight.

The wax (es) considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C ..

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the peak. the most endothermic observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C /minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company DESERT WHALE under the. Iso-Jojoba-50`` commercial reference, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (1,1-trimethylol) tetrastearate Propane) sold under the name Hest 2T-4S "by the company HETERENE, which may also be mentioned as silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE), fluorinated waxes, or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax castor 16L64e and 22L73 "by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. As wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or in combination. mixed. Such a wax is in particular sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 Pe", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 Pe" by the company Koster Keunen. The composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content (s) ranging from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight and preferably from 8 to 20% by weight relative to its total weight. As specified above, the composition considered according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least one wax as defined above, at least one specific copolymer as defined below.

COPOLYMERES ETHYLENIOUES SEOUENCES The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ethylenic block copolymer such as those defined below. The block polymers (copolymers) that can be used according to the invention are, for example, those described in the patent application EP 1411 069 A2, and which comprise a first and at least a second sequence, said first and second sequences being linked by an intermediate sequence which comprises at least one constituent monomer of each of said two sequences.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ethylenic block copolymer (also called sequenced ethylenic polymer), containing at least a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40 ° C. and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and at least one second sequence having a temperature of glass transition less than or equal to 20 ° C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C , said first sequence and said second sequence being interconnected by a statistical intermediate segment co comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first block and at least one of said second constituent monomers of the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2.

The sequenced polymer used according to the invention thus comprises at least a first sequence and at least a second sequence. By "at least" a sequence is meant one or more sequences. By "sequenced" polymer is meant a polymer comprising at least 2 distinct sequences, preferably at least 3 distinct sequences. By "ethylenic" polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers comprising ethylenic unsaturation. The block ethylenic polymer used according to the invention is prepared exclusively from monofunctional monomers. This means that the sequenced ethylenic polymer used according to the present invention does not contain multifunctional monomers, which make it possible to break the linearity of a polymer in order to obtain a connected or even crosslinked polymer, as a function of the multifunctional monomer content. The polymer used according to the invention also does not contain macromonomers ("macromonomer" means a monofunctional monomer having a pendant group of a polymeric nature, and preferably having a molecular weight greater than 500 g / mol, or a polymer comprising on one of its ends a polymerizable terminal group (or ethylenically msaturation), which are used in the preparation of a graft polymer.

It is specified that in what precedes and what follows the terms "first" and "second" sequences do not condition the order of said sequences (or blocks) in the structure of the polymer. The first and second sequences of the polymer used in the invention may be advantageously incompatible with each other. By "incompatible sequences with each other" it is meant that the mixture formed by a polymer corresponding to the first block and a polymer corresponding to the second block is not miscible in the polymerization solvent, which is predominant by weight of the sequenced polymer, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa), for a content of the mixture of said polymers greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of said polymers and of said polymerization solvent, it being understood that: i) said polymers are present in the mixture in a content such that the respective weight ratio ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, and that ii) each of the polymers corresponding to the first and second sequences has an average molecular weight (by weight or number) equal to that of the +/- 15% sequenced polymer. In the case of a mixture of polymerization solvents, assuming two or more solvents present in identical mass proportions, said polymer mixture is immiscible in at least one of them. Of course, in the case of a polymerization carried out in a single solvent, the latter is the majority solvent.

The sequenced polymer according to the invention comprises at least a first sequence and at least a second sequence linked together by an intermediate segment comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block. The intermediate segment (also called intermediate sequence) has a glass transition temperature Tg between the glass transition temperatures of the first and second sequences.

The intermediate segment is a sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer makes it possible to "compatibilize" these blocks. The intermediate segment comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer is a random polymer. Preferably, the intermediate sequence is derived essentially from constituent monomers of the first sequence and the second sequence. By "essentially" is meant at least 85%, preferably at least 90%, better at 95% and even better at 100%.

The block polymer according to the invention is advantageously a film-forming ethylenic block polymer. By "ethylenic" polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers comprising ethylenic unsaturation. By "film-forming" polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

Preferably, the polymer according to the invention does not comprise silicon atoms in its backbone. By "skeleton" is meant the main chain of the polymer, as opposed to the pendant side chains.

Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is not water-soluble, that is to say that the polymer is not soluble in water or in a mixture of water and lower monoalcohols linear or branched having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, without pH modification, with an active ingredient content of at least 1% by weight, at room temperature (25 ° C).

Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is not an elastomer. By "non-elastomeric polymer" is meant a polymer which, when subjected to a stress aimed at stretching it (for example by 30% relative to its initial length), does not return to a length substantially identical to its length. initial when the constraint stops. More specifically, "non-elastomeric polymer" denotes a polymer having an instantaneous recovery Ri <50% and a delayed recovery R2h <70% after having undergone an elongation of 30%. Preferably, Ri is <30%, and R2h <50%. More specifically, the non-elastomeric nature of the polymer is determined according to the following protocol: A polymer film is prepared by pouring a solution of the polymer into a Teflon matrix and then drying for 7 days in a controlled atmosphere at 23-15 ° C. and 50-110% relative humidity. A film approximately 100 μm thick in which are cut rectangular specimens (for example by punch) of a width of 15 mm and a length of 80 mm are then obtained. This sample is subjected to tensile stress with the aid of an apparatus marketed under the reference Zwick, under the same conditions of temperature and humidity as for drying. The specimens are stretched at a speed of 50 mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 mm, which corresponds to the initial length (Io) of the specimen. The instantaneous overlap R 1 is determined as follows: the specimen is stretched 30% (Ems), that is to say about 0.3 times its initial length (I); the stress is released by imposing a return speed equal to the tensile speed, ie 50 mm / min and the residual elongation of the specimen is measured in percentage, after returning to zero load stress (si). The instantaneous recovery in% (Ri) is given by the following formula: Ri - (en, - Ei) / cin.) X 100 To determine the delayed recovery, the residual elongation rate of the Percent test (E2h), 2 hours after return to the zero load stress. The recovery delayed in% (R2h) is given by the formula below: R2h- (Emax -E2h) / Emax) X 100 For purely indicative purposes, a polymer according to one embodiment of the invention preferably has a recovery. instantaneous Ri of 10% and delayed recovery R2h of 30%.

The polydispersity index of the polymer of the invention is greater than 2.

Advantageously, the block polymer used in the compositions according to the invention has a polydispersity index I ranging from 2 to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5, for example ranging from 2.5 to 8, and better or better. equal to 2.8 and in particular ranging from 2.8 to 6. The polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight average mass Mw to the number average mass Mn. The weight average (Mw) and number (Mn) molar masses were determined by liquid gel permeation chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector). The weight average mass (Mw) of the polymer according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 300,000, it ranges, for example, from 35,000 to 200,000, and more preferably from 45,000 to 150,000 g / mol. The number average mass (Mn) of the polymer according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 70,000, for example from 10,000 to 60,000, and more preferably from 12,000 to 50,000 g / mol.

First sequence before a TE greater than or equal to 40 ° C. The sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C. has, for example, a Tg ranging from 40 to 150 ° C., preferably greater than or equal to 50 ° C., for example from 50 ° C to 120 ° C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C, for example from 60 ° C to 120 ° C. The indicated glass transition temperatures of the first and second sequences can be theoretical Tg's determined from the theoretical Tg's of the constituent monomers of each of the sequences, which can be obtained. find in a reference manual such as the Polymer Handbook, YxI ed, 1989, John Wiley, according to the following relationship, called Fox Law 1 / Tg = E (tu, / Tg;), where mi is the mass fraction of the monomer i in the sequence considered and Tg; being the glass transition temperature of the homopolymer of the monomer i. Unless otherwise indicated, the Tg values for the first and second sequences in the present application are theoretical Tg. The difference between the glass transition temperatures of the first and second sequences is generally greater than 10 ° C, preferably greater than 20 ° C, and more preferably greater than 30 ° C. In the present invention, the term "comprised between ... and ..." is intended to denote an interval of values whose mentioned limits are excluded, and "from ... to" and "ranging from ... to ... ", an interval of values whose terminals are included. The sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C may be derived in whole or in part from one or more monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C. This sequence can also be called "rigid sequence". In the case where this sequence is a homopolymer, it is derived from monomers, which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have glass transition temperatures greater than or equal to 40 ° C. This first block may be a homopolymer consisting of a single type of monomer (whose Tg 25 of the corresponding homopolymer is greater than or equal to 40 ° C.).

In the case where the first block is a copolymer, it may be issued in whole or in part from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration of which are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is greater than or equal to 40 ° C. vs. The copolymer may for example comprise: - monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example a Tg ranging from 40 ° C to 150 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 50 ° C, for example from 50 ° C to 120 ° C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C, for example from 60 ° C to 120 ° C, and - monomers which are such ) that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg's lower than 40 ° C, chosen from monomers having a Tg of between 20 ° C and 40 ° C and / or monomers having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C for example a Tg ranging from -100 ° C. to 20 ° C., preferably less than 15, especially ranging from -80 ° C. to 15 ° C. and better still below 10 ° C., for example ranging from -50 ° C. to 0 ° C. ° C to, as described below.

The first monomers whose homopolymers have a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C. are preferably chosen from the following monomers, also called main monomers: methacrylates of formula CH 2 = C (CH 3) -COOR 2 in wherein R2 represents a linear or branched, unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group, or R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably a C8 cycloalkyl group; at C12, preferably such as isobornyl methacrylate, - acrylates of formula CH2 = CH-COOR'2 in which R'2 represents a C4 to C4 cycloalkyl group such as an isobornyl group or a tert-butyl group (-) (meth) acrylamides of formula: wherein R7 and R8 identical or different each represent a hydrogen atom R 'CH2 = C CO Rg or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl group, such as a group n- butyl, tb utyle, isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl, or isononyl; or R7 is H and R8 is 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl, and R 'is H or methyl. Examples of monomers that may be mentioned include N-butylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N, N-dimethylacrylamide and N, N-dibutylacrylamide, and mixtures thereof. The first block is advantageously obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-000R2 and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -000R2 in which R2 represents a group C4 to C12 cycloalkyl, preferably C8 to C12 cycloalkyl, preferably such as isobornyl. The monomers and their proportions are preferably chosen so that the glass transition temperature of the first sequence is greater than or equal to 40 ° C. According to one embodiment, the first block is obtained from: i) at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-000R2 in which R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably a cycloalkyl group; C.sub.1 to C.sub.12, preferably such as isobornyl, ii) and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH.sub.2 = C (CH.sub.3) -COOR'.sub.2 in which R'.sub.2 represents a C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 cycloalkyl group, preferably a C8-C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably such as isobornyl. According to one embodiment, the first block is obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-000R2 in which R2 represents a C8 to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably such as isobornyl, and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 in which R'2 represents a C8-C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably such as isobornyl. Preferably, R2 and R'2 are independently or simultaneously an isobornyl group. Preferably, the block copolymer comprises from 50 to 80% by weight of methacrylate / isobornyl acrylate, from 10 to 30% by weight of isobutyl acrylate and from 2 to 10% by weight of acrylic acid. The first block can be obtained exclusively from said acrylate monomer and said methacrylate monomer. The acrylate monomer and the methacrylate monomer are preferably in mass proposals of between 30:70 and 70:30, preferably between 40:60 and 60:40, in particular of the order of 50:50. The proportion of the first block is preferably from 20 to 90% by weight of the polymer, more preferably from 3.0 to 80% and most preferably from 60 to 80%.

According to one embodiment, the first block is obtained by polymerization of isobornyl methacrylate and isobornyl acrylate.

Second sequence of vitreous transition temperature below 20 ° C. The second sequence advantageously has a glass transition temperature Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C., for example a Tg ranging from -100 ° C. to 20 ° C., preferably lower than at 15 ° C., in particular ranging from -80 ° C. to 15 ° C. and better still less than or equal to 10 ° C., for example ranging from -100 ° C. to 10 ° C., in particular ranging from 10 -30 ° C. to 10 ° C. ° C. The second sequence is derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C. This sequence can also be called "soft sequence". The monomer having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C (called the second monomer) is preferably chosen from the following monomers: the acrylates of formula CH 2 = CHCOOR 3 R 3 representing a linear C 1 to C 12 unsubstituted alkyl group; or branched, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which is optionally intercalated one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, preferably isobutyl methacrylates of formula CHZ = C (CH3 ) -COOR4, R4 represents a linear or branched C6 to C12 unsubstituted alkyl group in which one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N and S are optionally intercalated; vinyl esters of formula R 5 -CO-O-CH =CH 2 where R 5 represents a linear or branched C 4 to C 12 alkyl group; - C4 to C12 vinyl alcohol and alcohol ethers, - C4 to C12 N-alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide, and mixtures thereof. The monomers having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C are preferred isobutyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or mixtures thereof in all proportions.

Each of the first and second sequences may contain, in a minority proportion, at least one constituent monomer of the other sequence. Thus the first sequence may contain at least one constituent monomer of the second sequence and vice versa.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said first monomer or monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C., are chosen from: methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -000R2 wherein R2 represents a linear or branched, unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably isobornyl, the acrylates of formula CH2 = CH-COOR'2 in which R'2 represents a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably isobornyl, - (meth) acrylamides of formula: R 'CH2 = C CO R8 where R7 and R8, which are identical or different, represent each hydrogen or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl group, or R7 is H and R8 is 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl, and R 'is H or methyl. and the second monomer or monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C., are chosen from: the acrylates of formula CH 2 = CHCOOR 3, R 3 representing a unsubstituted C 1 to C 14 alkyl group, linear or branched, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, preferably isobutyl, are optionally intercalated; the methacrylates of formula CH 2 CC (CH 3) -COOR 4, R 4 representing a linear or branched C 6 to C 12 unsubstituted alkyl group in which one or more heteroatoms chosen from 0 are optionally intercalated; N and S; vinyl esters of formula R 5 -CO-O-CH =CH 2 where R 5 represents a linear or branched C 4 to C 12 alkyl group; vinyl alcohol and C4 to C12 alcohol ethers; C4 to C12 N-alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide; and mixtures thereof. Each of the first and / or second sequences comprises, in addition to the monomers indicated above, one or more other monomers called additional monomers, different from the main monomers mentioned above. In particular, each of the first and / or second sequences comprises at least one additional monomer. The nature and amount of this additional monomer (s) are chosen so that the sequence in which they are located has the desired glass transition temperature. This additional monomer is for example chosen from: - monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation (s) comprising at least one tertiary amine function such as 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and the salts thereof; methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -000R6 in which R6 represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl group, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl, said alkyl group being substituted by one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups (such as 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I, F), such as trifluoroethyl methacrylate, - methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR9, R9 representing a linear or branched C6-C12 alkyl group, in which is found (s) ev entuellementintercalé (s) one or more heteroatoms selected from 0, N and S, said alkyl group being substituted by one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I, F); the acrylates of formula CH 2 = CHCOOR 10, R 10 representing a linear or branched C 1 to C 1 alkyl group substituted with one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I and F), such that 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, or Rlo represents a C1-C12-O-POE (polyoxyethylene) alkyl with repeating oxyethylene unit 5 to 10 times, for example methoxy-POE or R8 represents a polyoxyethylene group comprising from 5 to 10 ethylene oxide units. In particular, the first and / or second block comprises as additional monomer (meth) acrylic acid, preferably acrylic acid. In a particularly preferred manner, the second block comprises, as additional monomer, (meth) acrylic acid, preferably acrylic acid. The additional monomer (s) may represent from 1 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer, preferably from 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said polymer. In particular, said block copolymer is such that the first block is obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-OOOR2 in which R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably isobornyl, and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 wherein R'2 is C4-C12 cycloalkyl, preferably isobornyl, and the second block is from less a second monomer such as the homopolymer obtained has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C, and an additional monomer of acrylic acid type. Preferably, the polymer of the invention comprises at least isobornyl acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate monomers in the first block and isobutyl acrylate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block.

Preferably, the polymer comprises at least isobornyl acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate monomers in equivalent proportion by weight in the first block and isobutyl acrylate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block. Preferably, the polymer comprises at least isobornyl acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate monomers in an equivalent proportion by weight in the first block, and isobutyl acrylate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block, the first block being 70% by weight of the polymer. Preferably, the polymer comprises at least isobornyl acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate monomers in an equivalent proportion by weight in the first block, and isobutyl acrylate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block. Preferably, the Tg sequence greater than 40 ° C represents 70% by weight of the polymer, and the acrylic acid represents 5% by weight of the polymer. According to one embodiment, the first sequence does not comprise additional monomer. According to a preferred embodiment, the second block comprises acrylic acid as additional monomer. In particular, the second sequence is advantageously obtained from an acrylic acid monomer and at least one other monomer having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C. According to a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a fluid cosmetic composition, preferably for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising A) at least one ethylenic block copolymer comprising at least a first block obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-000R2 in which R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably isobornyl, and at least one methacrylate monomer of the formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 wherein R'2 is a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably isobornyl, and at least a second block is obtained from at least one second monomer such as the homopolymer obtained has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C (preferably isobutyl acrylate), and an additional monomer of type a acrylic acid, b) at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol, c) at least 5% by weight of wax (s), relative to the weight total of the composition, and d) 0 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0 to 2% by weight of volatile oil (s) whose flash point is less than 80 ° C., relative to the weight total composition, with the composition according to the invention having at 20 ° C a viscosity of between 1 and 25 Pa.s and preferably between 2 and 18 Pa.s. Preferably, the copolymer used in the compositions according to the invention is obtained from at least one isobornyl methacrylate monomer, at least one isobornyl acrylate monomer, at least one isobutyl acrylate monomer. and at least one acrylic acid monomer.

Preferably, the first block is obtained from at least one isobornyl methacrylate monomer and at least one isobornyl acrylate monomer, and the second block is obtained from at least one acrylate acrylate monomer. isobutyl and at least one acrylic acid monomer. Preferably, the first block is obtained from at least one isobornyl methacrylate monomer and at least one isobornyl acrylate monomer, and "the second block is obtained from at least one acrylate acrylate monomer. Isobutyl and at least one acrylic acid monomer Advantageously, the copolymer used in the invention comprises from 2 to 10% by weight of acrylic acid.

Advantageously, the copolymer used in the invention comprises from 50 to 80% by weight of methacrylate / isobornyl acrylate mixture, from 10 to 30% by weight of isobutyl acrylate and from 2 to 10% by weight of acrylic acid. The block copolymer may advantageously comprise more than 2% by weight of acrylic acid monomers, and especially from 2 to 15% by weight, for example from 3 to 15% by weight, in particular from 4 to 15% by weight, or even from 4 to 15% by weight. 10% by weight of acrylic acid monomers, relative to the total weight of said copolymer.

Intermediate Segment The intermediate segment (also called intermediate sequence) connects the first and second sequences of the polymer used according to the present invention. The intermediate segment results from the polymerization of: i) the first monomer or monomers, and optionally the additional monomer or monomers, remaining available after their polymerization at a conversion rate of at most 90% to form the first sequence, ii) and the or second monomers, and optionally additional monomer (s), added to the reaction mixture The formation of the second sequence is initiated when the first monomers no longer react or become incorporated in the polymer chain either because they are all consumed either because their reactivity no longer allows them to be. Thus, the intermediate segment comprises the first available monomers, resulting from a conversion rate of these first monomers of less than or equal to 90%, during the introduction of the second monomer or monomers during the synthesis of the polymer. The intermediate segment of the sequenced polymer is a random polymer (may also be called a statistical sequence). That is, it comprises a statistical distribution of the first monomer (s) and second monomer (s) as well as any additional monomer (s) present.

Thus, the intermediate segment is a statistical sequence, as are the first sequence and the second sequence if they are not homopolymers (i.e., both are formed from at least two different monomers ).

Process for Preparing the Copolymer: The block ethylenic copolymer according to the invention is prepared by free radical polymerization, according to the techniques well known in this type of polymerization. The free radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of an initiator whose nature is adapted, in known manner, depending on the desired polymerization temperature and the polymerization solvent. In particular, the initiator may be chosen from peroxide-functional initiators, oxidation-reduction pairs, or other radical polymerization initiators known to those skilled in the art.

In particular, as a peroxide-functional initiator, there may be mentioned, for example: a. peroxyesters, such as terbutylperoxyacetate, tertbutylperbenzoate, tertbutylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate (Akzo Nobel Trigonox 21S), 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2,5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox) 141 by Akzo Nobel); b. peroxydicarbonates, such as di-isopropylperoxydicarbonate; vs. peroxycetones, such as methyl ethyl ketone peroxide; d. hydroperoxides, such as hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), terbutylhydroperoxide; e. diacyl peroxides, such as acetyl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide; f. dialkyl peroxides, such as di-tert-butyl peroxide; inorganic peroxides, such as potassium peroxodisulfate (K2S2O8); As an initiator in the form of a redox couple, mention may be made of the potassium thiosulfate + potassium peroxodisulphate pair, for example. According to a preferred embodiment, the initiator is chosen from organic peroxides comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the initiator used is 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2,5-dimethylhexane marketed under the reference Trigonox® 141 by Akzo Nobel. The block copolymer used according to the invention is prepared by free radical polymerization and not by controlled or living polymerization. In particular, the polymerization of the block ethylenic copolymer is carried out in the absence of control agents, and in particular in the absence of control agent conventionally used in living or controlled polymerization processes such as nitroxides, alkoxyamines dithioesters, dithiocarbamates, dithiocarbonates or xanthates, trithiocarbonates, copper catalysts, for example. As previously indicated, the intermediate segment is a random sequence, as are the first sequence and the second sequence if they are not homopolymers (i.e., both are formed from at least two different monomers).

The block copolymer may be prepared by free radical polymerization, and in particular by a process comprising mixing, in the same reactor, a polymerization solvent, an initiator, at least one glass transition monomer greater than or equal to 40 ° C., less than a glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C according to the following sequence: - is poured into the reactor, a portion of the polymerization solvent and optionally a portion of the initiator and monomers of the first casting mixture that the reaction mixture is heated to a reaction temperature of between 60 and 120 ° C., at least a first monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C. and optionally a portion of the initiator is then poured in a first casting. that is allowed to react for a time T corresponding to a conversion rate of said monomers of 90% maximum, - then poured into the reactor, in a second casting e, again of the polymerization initiator, said at least one second glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C, which is allowed to react for a period T'_ after which the conversion rate of said monomers reaches a plateau, the reaction mixture is cooled to room temperature. Preferably, the copolymer may be prepared by free radical polymerization, in particular by a process consisting of mixing, in one and the same reactor, a polymerization solvent, an initiator, an acrylic acid monomer and at least one lower glass transition monomer. or at 20 ° C, at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-000R2 in which R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 in which R'2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, according to the following stage sequence: a part of the polymerization solvent and possibly a part of the initiator and monomers of the first casting, which mixture is poured into the reactor, are poured into the reactor; the reaction mixture is heated to a reaction temperature of between 60 and 120 ° C., the at least one acrylate monomer having the formula CH 2 = CH-000R 2 and at least one of the following: methacrylate of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -000R'2 as monomers of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and optionally a portion of the initiator which is allowed to react for a duration T corresponding to one conversion rate of said monomers 90% maximum, - then poured into the reactor, in a second casting, again the polymerization initiator, the acrylic acid monomer and said at least one glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C, which is allowed to react for a time T 'after which the conversion rate of said monomers reaches a plateau, - the reaction mixture is brought to room temperature. By polymerization solvent is meant a solvent or a mixture of solvents. In particular, as a polymerization solvent which can be used, mention may be made of: ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether; short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, acetate isopentyl; ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alkanes which are liquid at room temperature, such as decane, heptane, dodecane, isododecane, cyclohexane, isohexadecane; aromatic cyclic compounds which are liquid at room temperature, such as toluene and xylene, aldehydes which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as benzaldehyde and acetaldehyde, and mixtures thereof. The polymerization solvent may be chosen in particular from ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, alcohols such as isopropanol, ethanol, aliphatic alkanes such as isododecane and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polymerization solvent is a mixture of butyl acetate and isopropanol or isododecane.

According to another embodiment, the copolymer may be prepared by free radical polymerization according to a preparation process, comprising mixing, in the same reactor, a polymerization solvent, an initiator, at least one. glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C, and at least one monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, according to the following step sequence: is poured into the reactor, a portion of the polymerization solvent and optionally a part of the initiator and the monomers of the first casting, which mixture is heated to a reaction temperature of between 60 and 120 ° C., the at least one vitreous transition monomer is then poured in a first casting. less than or equal to 20 ° C and optionally a portion of the initiator which is allowed to react for a time T corresponding to a conversion rate of said monomers of 90% maximum, - then poured into the reactor, in a second casting, again of the polymerization initiator, said at least one monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, which is allowed to react for a period T 'at the end of which the conversion rate of said monomers reaches a plateau, the reaction mixture is brought to room temperature.

According to a preferred embodiment, the copolymer can be prepared by free radical polymerization according to a preparation process, comprising mixing, in the same reactor, a polymerization solvent, an initiator, an acrylic acid monomer, at least one monomer of glass transition less than or equal to 20 ° C, at least one monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and in particular as monomers of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 In which R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 in which R'2 represents a C4 to C4 cycloalkyl group, according to the sequence; following step: - is poured into the reactor, a portion of the polymerization solvent and optionally a portion of the initiator and the monomers of the first casting mixture that is heated to a reaction temperature between 60 ° and 120 ° C., the acrylic acid monomer and the at least one glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C. and optionally a portion of the initiator which is used are then poured in a first casting. . is allowed to react for a time T corresponding to a conversion rate of said monomers of 90% maximum, then poured into the reactor, in a second casting, again the polymerization initiator, said at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-OOOR2 and said at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2, as a monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, which is allowed to react for a period T 'at after which the conversion rate of said monomers reaches a plateau, - the reaction mixture is brought to room temperature.

The polymerization temperature is preferably of the order of 90 ° C. The reaction time after the second casting is preferably between 3 and 6 hours. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, use will be made of a poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid) copolymer as prepared according to Example 1 described below. According to the invention, the block copolymer may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight of activated material, preferably between 0.5 to 20% and even more preferably between 1 to 10% by weight of material. active with respect to the total weight of said composition. Block copolymers such as those described above are described in particular in patent applications EP-A-1411069 and EP-A-1882709. The synthetic solvent used for the polymerization of the film-forming copolymer is generally chosen from volatile oils whose flash point is less than 80 ° C., such as isododecane, for example. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains a non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol, preferably octyldodecylneopentanoate.

Distillation of the Synthetic Solvent For the implementation of the block polymer in a composition of the product according to the invention, and when the polymer is prepared in a volatile solvent or a volatile oil having a flash point below 80 ° C, it is it is advantageous to carry out a step of total or partial elimination of said solvent or volatile oil. It is carried out in particular by distillation, optionally under vacuum, and addition of nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol.

This technique is known to those skilled in the art and Example 2 described below illustrates this technique. The distillation of the synthesis solvent (typically isododecane) is carried out with simultaneous addition or in the presence in the mixture before the distillation of a non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g. /mole. This step is carried out hot and optionally under vacuum to distil a maximum of isododecane (and more generally of synthetic solvent), if it has been used as a polymerization solvent, or more generally to distill a maximum of volatile oil with a flash point below 80 ° C. The nonvolatile ester oil may also be added partly or wholly to the polymer in the volatile solvent prior to distillation.

The elimination of volatile oil with a flash point of less than 80 ° C. (conventionally isododecane) makes it possible to limit the content thereof in the solution of block copolymer and thus to produce a cosmetic composition containing less than 10% by weight of isododecane (and more generally of volatile solvent) and preferably less than 5% by weight of isododecane (and more generally of volatile solvent), relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.5 to 40% by weight of block ethylenic copolymer active material, and advantageously from 1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 2 to 30% by weight, or even from 2 to 20% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of wax (es) and copolymer (s) in a weight ratio of ethylenic copolymer (s) sequenced (s) / wax (s) ranging from 1/10 to 10 and preferably from 1/5 to 5, preferably from 1/5 to 1.

Nonvolatile Hydrocarbon Ester Oil: As previously stated, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol.

The presence of the nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol makes it possible to obtain a make-up deposit on the skin, in particular the lips, which has good comfort properties The term "oil" means a non-aqueous compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). It is also possible to define a non-volatile oil as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2. By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. By "hydrocarbon ester oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil comprising at least one ester group. As non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol, mention may be made in particular of: fatty acid esters, in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, esters as the oils of formula R10OOR2 in which RI represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that RI R 2 is 16, such as for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyled neopentanoate odecyl, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate; preferably, the preferred RICOOR 2 synthetic esters in which RI represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, are such that R1 and R2 is _> 20; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerine stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate.

According to one embodiment, a nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 1.6 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol does not carry a free hydroxyl (OH) group. According to a preferred embodiment, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprises at least 20 carbon atoms with a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 20 carbon atoms has a molar mass of less than 600 g / mol. The non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil may in particular comprise a linear or branched hydrocarbon oil having a molar mass of between 200 and 650 g / mol and more particularly between 250 and 600 g / mol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms (preferably at least 20 carbon atoms) and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol is octyledodecyl neopentanoate (especially 2-octyledodecyl neopentanoate). This ester oil makes it possible to distil all of the volatile oil whose flash point is less than or equal to 80 ° C.

The composition according to the invention may comprise from 2 to 60% by weight of non-volatile oil, and in particular of non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms (preferably at least 20 carbon atoms) and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol, especially 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the ratio by weight of ethylenic block copolymer relative to the weight of nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil, and in particular of nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms (preferably at least 20 carbon atoms). carbon atoms) and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol, is less than 1, preferably less than 0.75, more preferably less than 0.5, and especially preferably greater than 0.1.

Additional non-volatile oil The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one additional nonvolatile oil, different from said hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol. This additional oil may be chosen from all cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, vegetable and synthetic oils; in particular the hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone and / or fluorinated, volatile or non-volatile and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. More specifically, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to mean an oil formed mainly, or in the main, consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom, and possibly comprising one or more selected functions. among the hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxylic functions.

By way of example of additional nonvolatile oil, mention may be made of: 1 / linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, petroleum jelly, polybutylenes such as L INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), the Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by the SYNTEAL company (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / m) mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS,

2 / vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, for example that sold under the name ANTARON V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol),

3 / hydrocarbon ester oils having a molar mass greater than 650 g / mol, such as linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol) ), Hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965 g / mol), aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol), esters of fatty alcohol or of C24-C28 branched fatty acids such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697 g / mol ), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891 g / mol), glyceryl tri-2-tetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate; -2 (MW = 1232 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g / mol), a polyester resulting from esterification of at least one carboxylic acid (s) triglyceride (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, such as castor oil of succinic acid, and of isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech, the esters resulting from the esterification of a polyol and a dimer diacid such as polyglyceryl-2 isostearate copolymer dimerdilinoleate (Hailucent ISDA), dimer esters diol and diacid dimer of general formula HO-RI - (- 000-R2-COO-R '-) h-OH, in which: RI represents a residue of diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid R2 represents a diacid residue hydrogenated dilinoleic, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN D D-DA5e and DD-DA7®,

4 / silicone oils such as phenyl silicones (also called phenyl silicone oil) such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of a silicone chain groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms;

5 / oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (MW = 820 g / mol) and mixtures thereof. [0016] Preferably, the composition according to the invention advantageously contains from 1 to 60%, by weight, in in particular from 5 to 55% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by total weight of additional non-volatile oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 10 to 80 % by weight of non-volatile oil, especially from 15 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oils with a flash point below or at 80 ° C. The composition according to the invention comprises from 0 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0 to 2% by weight, of volatile oil whose flash point is less than 80%. relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular such as isododecane. The flash point is in particular measured according to the ISO 3679 standard. According to one particular embodiment, the composition is free of volatile oil having a flash point of less than 80 ° C. More preferably, the composition is free of isododecane. By "flash point oil-less than 80 ° C" is meant in particular that such an oil is not deliberately added in the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. compositions. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. In particular, as a volatile oil whose flash point is less than or equal to 80 ° C., mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils such as hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C14 alkanes, such as C -C 14 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of 'Isopars' or permetyls, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile solvent is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 14 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. As other volatile hydrocarbon oils whose flash point is less than or equal to 80 ° C., mention may also be made of ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone and acetone; short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains at least one volatile oil whose flash point is greater than 80 ° C., such as isohexadecane. OTHER INGREDIENTS For obvious reasons, the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, ie contain a physiologically acceptable medium which is non-toxic and which can be applied to the skin and / or the lips of human beings. . By cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch. This physiologically acceptable medium may contain additives and / or active ingredients conventionally considered for cosmetic compositions, provided that these additional compounds do not harm the cosmetic properties sought and manifested by the compositions according to the invention.

Structuring agent / thickener The composition according to the invention may thus comprise at least one structuring agent chosen from pasty compounds, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof. Pasty fats The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one pasty fatty substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" (also referred to as pasty fatty substance) is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound. may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments .

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the rate of heating of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from lanolin and its derivatives - polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. the ether pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (5 EO) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), the pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG) -5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company Vevy, a mixture where the constituents are found in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil. the silicone compounds that may or may not be polymeric fluorinated compounds, polymers that may or may not be vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of (meth) ) alkyl acrylates preferably having a C8-C5 alkyl group; homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups; homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; , the fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-050 diols, - the esters, and / or their mixtures. The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene- oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxide in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers ( 22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-40-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo, phytosterol esters, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, pentaerythritol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a polybasic carboxylic acid linear or branched C4-050 and a C2-050 diol or polyol, the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of a hydroxycarboxylic acid ester aliphatic with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, acid tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, acid isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is selected from a) partial or total esters of linear, saturated, monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) partial or total esters of C 2 to C 16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono or poly carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. the esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters, such esters may be chosen in particular from the esters of following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof. hydrogenated rosinate esters, such as dilinoleyl dimers of hydrogenated rosinate (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical) and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the pasty compound (s) preferably represents 0.1 to 50%; better 0.5 to 40%, better 1 to 30% and more preferably 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight composition.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one gelling agent. The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C12 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS, which may also be cited as fumed fumed silica optionally treated with a surface area having a particle size of less than 1 μm.It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica, may in particular substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is obtained, the hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexameth Yldisilazane Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane. or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL. ® by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

The first and / or second composition of the product according to the invention may comprise a lipophilic gelling agent content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular it may contain 0.5% by weight. at 15%, more particularly from 1 to 10%. It is understood that the amount of these additional compounds may be adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to impair the desired effect within the scope of the present invention.

Dyestuffs According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further contain at least one dyestuff (also known as a coloring agent) which may be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, nacres and flakes well known to those skilled in the art. The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight.

The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition . As inorganic pigments which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio close to 30. The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be for example microspheres type of silica containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. By way of example of nacres, mention may also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME pearls (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, the TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, the nacres 15 based on PRESTIGE mica marketed by the ECKART company and the nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica marketed by SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may especially be made of gold-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne) , Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorons) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne) orange nacres sold especially by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the nacres of red tint with gold glare sold by the company ENGELHARD. under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microns), white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

By "dyes", it is necessary to include generally organic compounds that are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, I3-carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.

This effect is different from a simple effect of conventional hue, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change of temperature.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

Filler The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more fillers, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight. By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylone) powders (Orgasole from Atochem), poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrape Dow Corning) ) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearlse, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres ( Silica Beadse from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium tetarate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. The composition according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a liquid, a cream or a paste.

Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support and on the other hand, the intended application of the composition. However, as specified above, the composition according to the invention is advantageously obtained according to an original process.

METHOD FOR PREPARING A COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION More specifically, the process considered according to the invention comprises at least one step consisting in bringing the temperature at least to equal to the transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state of the wax having the highest melting point, at least a portion of the various constituents of the composition including said wax, said ester oil and said copolymer. If necessary, the various additional constituents are added thereto, and the mixture obtained is then kneaded for at least part of its cooling at a temperature of 20 ° C. For example, the fatty phase is heated to 100 ° C. in a stirred pan, then the previously ground pigments are added and the mixture is heated for 45 minutes. The mixture is then introduced into an extruder. In order to obtain the particular properties of the compositions which are the subject of the invention, they can advantageously be prepared according to a process comprising at least one controlled shearing step, preferably continuously, of all or part of the fatty phase comprising at least one wax, an ester oil according to the invention and a copolymer as defined above, preferably at a temperature greater than or equal to the solid-liquid transition temperature of the wax having the highest melting point. Any equipment or combination of equipment making it possible to control a mechanical action that will knead the product as it is prepared, such as continuous processes of the scraped surface exchanger type, or preferably of the kneader type. twin-screw extruder (called "extruder" for simplification in the remainder of this document) are suitable for carrying out the method according to the invention. Extruders of the twin-screw kneader-extruder type are preferably used, these extruders being composed of the following elements: at least two sheaths thermally controlled independently at a temperature ranging from 10 ° C. to 300 ° C., -rotatives composed of elements quote, each element having a form providing the mixing function sought in. the corresponding temperature zone; metering and introduction devices for the different phases; and a variable speed motor for modulating the intensity of the shear as a function of the rotational speed of the screws. When the process according to the invention is carried out through a kneader-extruder, the different ingredients can be incorporated at different temperatures during kneading during cooling and / or at a temperature compatible with their stability. Mention may in particular be made as equipment for carrying out the invention, without restriction of the invention to these materials, models BC-21 and BC-45 of 1.5 the company Clextral, or the model Prism Eurolab of the company ThermoRhéo . According to a preferred method of preparation, the extruder consists of 6 independent sleeves each for introducing new phases and to set the temperature. They are numbered from 1 to 6 from the input to the output of the product. The rotation speed is 50 rpm, and the flow rate is 0.7 kg / h. The temperature profile of the six furnaces in the order of succession is as follows: - 100 ° C, - 100 ° C, - 100 ° C, - 20 ° C, 10 ° C, - 10 ° C. The examples which follow illustrate the invention in a nonlimiting manner. The amounts are expressed as a percentage by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "inclusive (e) between, .. and ..:" must be understood, unless otherwise indicated, inclusive. EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of Poly (Isobornyl Acrylonate / Isobornyl Methacrylate / Isobutyl Acrylate / Acrylic Acid) Copolymer 300 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 liter reactor and the temperature of the to change from room temperature (25 ° C) to 90 ° C in one hour. 105 g of isobornyl methacrylate, 105 g of isobornyl acrylate and 1.8 g of 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2,5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox 141) are then added at 90 ° C. and over 1 hour. from Akzo Nobel). The mixture is maintained 11130 at 90 ° C. 75 g of isobutyl acrylate, 15 g of acrylic acid and 1.2 g of 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2.5 are then introduced into the above mixture, still at 90 ° C. and over 30 minutes. dimethylhexane. The mixture is kept at 90 ° C. for 3 hours, then the mixture is cooled. A 50% solution of copolymer active material in isododecane is obtained. A copolymer is obtained comprising a first poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate) block or block having a Tg of 128 ° C., a second poly (isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid) block having a Tg of -9 ° C. And an intermediate block which is a random isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer. The Tg of the copolymer is 74 ° C. This is theoretical Tg calculated by Fox law.

EXAMPLE 2 Distillation of the Synthesis Solvent (Pisododecane) With the Advantage of Octvldodecene Neopentanoate The solution obtained in Example 1 was heated at 130 ° C. under a vacuum of 100 mbar to evaporate isododecane while simultaneously adding the neopentanoate of octyldodecyl. The entirety of the isododecane was substituted by as much octyldodecyl neopentanoate by weight. The use of octyldodecyl neopentanoate makes it possible to evaporate all of the isododecane, this latter possibly remaining only in the state of residual traces. There is thus obtained a 50% solids copolymer solution in 50% octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

EXAMPLE 3 Liquid lipstick route A fluid lipstick (creamy texture) (lip gloss) according to the invention, the composition of which was as follows, was extruded by extrusion. Raw materials Composition 1 (INCI name and commercial reference) according to the invention (% by weight) Phase A OCTYLDODECYL NEOPENTANOATE 7.25 (ELEFAC I-205 from BERNEL CHEMICAL from ALZO) POLYISOBUTENE HYDROGEN 5.73 (PARLEAM from NOF CORPORATION) VINYLPYRROLIDONE / HEXADECENE 4.93 COPOLYMER (ANTARON V 216 OR GHENT (ISP V 216) Phase B ISOHEXADECANE 19.63 HYDROGENATED STYRENE / METHYL 7.91 STYRENE / INDENE COPOLYMER (EASTMAN CHEMICAL REGALITE R1100) Poly (isobornyl methacrylate) isobornyl co-acrylate-10.00 isobutyl co-acrylate-co-acrylic acid) with 50% of active material in 50% of octyldodecyl neopentanoate according to Example 2 above (MEXOMER PAZ of CHIMEX) Phase C VINYLPYRROLIDONE / EICOSENE COPOLYMER 2.00 (ANTARON V 220F OR GANEX V 220F from ISP) POLYETHYLENE 11.84 (PERFORMALENE 500-L from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES) Phase D Iron Oxide 0.95 YELLOW 5 LAKE 0.85 BLUE 1 LAKE 0.20 RED 7 0.45 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0.20 Phase E TRIMETHYLSILOXYPHENYL DIMETHICONE 23.76 (WACKER-BELSIL PDM 10 00 DE WACKER) Phase F MICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE 4.3 Viscosity (measured according to the protocol described previously 4.3 Pascal) Second Procedure The composition of lipsticks above (composition 1) is prepared according to the method of the invention in a twin-screw extruder mixer (Prism Eurolab type from ThermoRheo) described above AND according to the following procedure: a) In a first step, the fillers and pigments of phase D were milled to the tri-roll mill in part of the oily phase A. The remaining fat-soluble ingredients, phase B and C were then mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C. The ground material or pre-dispersed assets were then added.

Once the mixture was homogeneous, the E and F phase compounds were added and the mixture was stirred until homogeneous. b) In a second step, this mixture is then placed on a stirring plate located near the extruder and maintained at a temperature of 100 ° C. by means of an oil bath. The mixture is introduced into the extruder using a pump. The rotational speed of the screws is 50 rpm and the feed rate provided by the pump is 0.7 kg per hour. As seen above, the temperature profile of the six furnaces is as follows: 100 ° C., -100 ° C., -100 ° C., -10 ° C., -10 ° C. c) The expected composition is then recovered.

Cosmetic evaluation of the composition The composition 1 according to the invention is creamy and unctuous. The deposit on the lips made with the composition 1 is thick, comfortable and shiny. On the other hand, the makeup deposit is non-tacky and exhibits good color and glossiness. Comparative Example 4 Non-Invention A solid lipstick (thus excluding the invention) whose composition is identical to that of Composition 1 was prepared according to the method described in Example 3, with the difference that, at the end of the step a), the mixture obtained is not extruded but poured into molds making it possible to obtain a stick with a diameter of 12.7 mm and the whole is left to cool in a freezer for about an hour (so as to carry out a quenching) and then placed at room temperature for 24 hours. The hardness of the sticks obtained was then measured according to the protocol described above. It is 116.5 Nm-1 at 20 ° C.

The same result, namely 116.5 Nm-1 at 20 ° C., was obtained by heating the composition prepared by extrusion of Example 3 to a temperature of 100 ° C. with Rayneri stirring and then pouring it into molds allowing obtaining a 12.7 mm diameter stick and the whole being left to cool in a freezer for about an hour (so as to perform a quenching) and then placed at room temperature for 24 hours.

Cosmetic evaluation of the composition: The stick obtained is hard and disintegrates with difficulty when applied to the lips. The deposit obtained is thin (less thick than that obtained with the composition 1 extruded) and less unctuous (less comfortable). In addition, the deposit is slightly tacky and moderately glossy (less brilliant than that obtained with the composition 1 extruded).

Claims (8)

REVENDICATIONS1. A fluid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising: a) at least one block ethylenic copolymer (also called sequenced ethylenic polymer), containing at least a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40 ° C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and at least one second block having a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20 ° C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a temperature of vitreous transition less than or equal to 20 ° C, said first sequence and said second sequence being interconnected by a random intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first block and at least one of said second monomers constituting the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2, b) at minus one nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol, c) at least 5% by weight of wax (s) relative to the total weight of the composition and d) from 0 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0 to 2% by weight of volatile oil (s) whose flash point is less than 80 ° C., relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition having at 20 ° C a viscosity of between 1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 2 and 18 Pa.s and preferably between 3 and 16 Pa.s. 2. Composition. according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said first monomer or monomers of the block copolymer, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C; are chosen from: methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -000R2 in which R2 represents a linear or branched, unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a C4 cycloalkyl group, preferably isobornyl, - acrylates of formula CH2 = CH-COOR'2 in which R'2 represents a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably isobornyl, - (meth) acrylamides of formula: R 'CH2 = C CO Where R7 and R8, which are identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl group, or R7 represents H and R8 represents a 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group, and R ' denotes H or methyl. and in that the second monomer or monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C, are selected from: - acrylates of formula CH2 = CHCOOR3 , R3 representing a linear or branched C1-C12 unsubstituted alkyl group, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which is optionally (are) intercalated one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, preferably isobutyl, - methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR4, R4 representing a linear or branched C6 to C12 unsubstituted alkyl group, in which is (are) optionally intercalated (s) one or more heteroatoms selected from 0, N and S; Vinyl esters of formula R5-00-0-CH = CH2 where R5 is a linear or branched C4-C12 alkyl group; - C4 to C12 vinyl alcohol and alcohol ethers, - C4 to C12 N-alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide, and mixtures thereof. 25 3. A fluid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising: a) at least one ethylenic block copolymer comprising at least a first block obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH 2 CHCH In which R 2 represents a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkyl group and at least one monomermethacrylate of formula CH 2 CC (CH 3) -COOR' 2 in which R '2 represents a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkyl group, and at least one second sequence; is obtained from at least a second monomer such as the homopolymer obtained at a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C, and an additional monomer of acrylic acid type, b) at least one oil nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based ester comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol, c) at least 5% by weight of wax (s) relative to the total weight of the composition, d) d e 0 to 5% by weight, in particular 0 to 2% by weight of volatile oil (s) whose flash point is less than 80 ° C, relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition having at 20 ° C a viscosity of between 1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 2 and 18 Pa.s and preferably between 3 and 16 Pa.s. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R2 and R'2 represent independently or simultaneously an isobornyl group. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second block is obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CHCOOR3, in which R3 represents a C1-C12 unsubstituted alkyl group, linear or branched. except tertiobutyl (preferably isobutyl acrylate), and at least one acrylic acid monomer. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said copolymer comprises from 50 to 80% by weight of methacrylate / isobornyl acrylate, from 10 to 30% by weight of isobutyl acrylate and from 2 to 30% by weight of isobutyl acrylate. 10% by weight of acrylic acid. 7 Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1 to 30% by weight of active ingredient of block copolymer, and advantageously from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims 3.0, comprising a wax content (s) of 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 25% by weight and preferably 8 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a content of wax (es) and copolymer (s) in an ethylenic copolymer (s) weight ratio (s) sequenced. / wax (es) ranging from 1/10 to 10 and preferably from 1/5 to 5, preferably from 1/5 to 1. 10 Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of volatile oil with flash point below 80 ° C. . 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol is present in a content ranging from 2 to 60%. by weight, especially from 5 to 50%, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil is octyldodecylenéopentanoate. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises isohexadecane. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is such that when subjected to a thermal cycle comprising - a step of heating said composition from a temperature of about 20 ° C to a temperature of about 100 ° C or the liquid solid transition temperature of the wax with the highest melting point present in said composition; a quenching cooling step at a temperature of 0 ° C; composition being maintained at the temperature of 0 ° C for the hour, and - a heating step of bringing the composition of the previous step to the temperature of 20 ° C for 24 hours, said composition has, at the end of said cycle, a solid texture and preferably a hardness greater than or equal to 30 Nm at the temperature of 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is obtained by subjecting the fatty phase constituting and containing at least said wax, said ester oil and said copolymer to shear, preferably continuously, during the phase. cooling. Process for the preparation of a composition comprising at least one wax, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oil comprising at least 16 carbon atoms and having a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol and at least one copolymer as defined in claim 16 1 to 7, wherein the temperature of at least one temperature is equal to the transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state of the wax having the highest melting point, at least a portion of the various constituents of the composition of which said wax, said ester oil and said copolymer, the other part of its constituents is optionally added, and then the mixture obtained is kneaded during at least a portion of its cooling at a temperature of approximately 20 ° C. vs. Cosmetic makeup and / or skincare and / or skin care method comprising applying to the skin and / or said lips a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 15.