FR2966328A1 - THERMOCOLLANT WEARING FOR REINFORCING A PART OF A TEXTILE ARTICLE. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a thermo-adhesive interlining for reinforcing a portion of a textile article, said interlining comprising a textile support of which at least one face is provided with a fusible product network, said support comprising at least one formed textile layer. of a fabric, mesh knit or knitted fabric knit, said layer incorporating in a chain a combination of textured yarns (1) and yarns (2) consisting of a yarn of staple fibers, said support having undergone a finishing comprising at least one retraction treatment of the textured yarns (1) and a mechanical treatment of the scraping or emerying type of the yarns (2) consisting of a yarn of staple fibers.

Description

The invention relates to a fusible interlining for reinforcing a portion of a textile article, and a method of manufacturing such a interlining.

More particularly, it relates to fusible interlinings intended for the interlining of clothes or draperies.

Iron-on interlayer products are nowadays commonly used in the textile industry, mainly as reinforcement supports. Their application, carried out in particular by laminating on the linings of clothing or on draperies, makes it possible to modify the characteristics of the articles, in particular their shaping and stabilization, but also their feel, their flexibility and their nervousness.

Textile substrates for heat-bonding interlining, of the type comprising at least one textile layer formed of a fabric, a mesh knit or a screen knit fabric on which a discontinuous layer of hot melt polymer has been applied, are already known.

In particular, document FR-2,620,138 discloses a textile support comprising a binding knit in which threads are inserted in a chain, said threads forming on at least one of the faces of the support portions in relief relative to the free surface of said face so as to facilitate the attachment of a glaze wire.

Textile substrates may include textured yarns because of the particular benefits of texturing. For example, the texturing makes it possible to give a textile support a certain extensibility in the weft and / or in the warp direction, depending on the use of textured yarns in these different directions.

Moreover, in order to give such textile substrates a satisfactory feel, it is necessary to subject them to shrinkage treatment after weaving or knitting in order to reveal the crimp of the textured filaments, such treatment having the further effect of increasing the volume of said textile supports and their flexibility.

However, the evolution of the garment, lighter, more comfortable and using more and more varieties of fabrics, requires a stabilizer with an even larger volume while being the most versatile possible.

In particular, this evolution requires interlining having a certain flexibility and a soft touch while having mechanical characteristics, including resilience and elasticity, sufficient to fulfill their reinforcing function.

The object of the invention is to improve the prior art, in particular by proposing a thermo-adhesive interlining which is versatile by having a large volume, a certain flexibility, a soft feel and mechanical characteristics, in particular of extensibility, which are optimal, of so that it can be laminated on a wide range of clothing or draperies, retaining the best of their initial characteristics while giving them complementary performance essential to their comfort and maintenance.

For this purpose, and according to a first aspect, the invention proposes a thermo-adhesive interlining intended for reinforcing a part of a textile article, said interlining comprising a textile support of which at least one face is provided with a network of fusible product. said support comprising at least one textile layer formed of a fabric, a mesh knit or a screen knit, said layer comprising a combination of textured yarns and yarns made of staple yarn, said finished carrier comprising at least one retraction treatment of the textured yarns and a mechanical treatment of the scraping or emerying type of yarns consisting of a staple fiber yarn. According to a second aspect, the invention provides a method of manufacturing such a interlining, said method providing for: providing a support comprising at least one textile layer formed of a fabric, a knit mesh or a knit screened mesh, said layer integrating in a chain a combination of textured yarns and yarns consisting of a staple fiber yarn; subjecting the support to a finishing operation comprising at least one retraction treatment of the textured yarns and a mechanical treatment of the scraping or emerying type of yarns consisting of a staple fiber yarn; deposit a network of fusible product on at least one side of the support.

Other features and advantages of the invention will appear in the description which follows of different embodiments, a description given in relation to the attached figure schematically showing a textile layer for a fusible interlining according to one embodiment of the invention. .

In the description, the terms "warp" and "weft" will be used to designate, in a manner known to those skilled in the art, a wire disposed respectively in the longitudinal direction and in the transverse direction of a fabric during its manufacture.

Below described is a fusible interlining for reinforcing a portion of a textile article and comprising a textile support of which at least one face is provided with a fusible product network, and a method of manufacturing a such interlining.

The fusible product network may be arranged in the form of a discontinuous layer of fusible polymer dots, for example based on co-polyamide, co-polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene or other polymers commonly used in the the field of fusible interlinings. The deposition of the network is conventionally carried out by printing techniques, among which mention may be made of serigraphic techniques for printing single or double dots of a dispersion of fine powders of thermofusible polymers in aqueous phase, or of dot printing. dry powder by means of engraved cylinders or transfer printing.

The interlining can then be laminated via the fusible product network, especially on the clothing liners or on the draperies to be reinforced, by applying a hot pressure.

The manufacturing method provides a textile support comprising at least one textile layer. In a variant not shown, the textile support may comprise several textile layers, for example a nonwoven layer associated with a textile layer as shown in the figure, or several textile layers as shown which are associated with each other.

In particular, the textile support may comprise, in particular associated on the face of said support which is opposite to the iron-on product network, a non-woven layer so as to further improve the volume of the interlining. In relation to the figure, the textile layer has a combination of textured yarns 1 and yarns 2 consisting of staple fiber yarn.

In a manner known to those skilled in the art, a yarn is made of staple fibers held together in particular by twisting. According to one embodiment, the yarns 2 of the textile support which consist of a yarn comprise staple fibers based on a natural material, for example cotton, or an artificial material, for example viscose, to ensure to the textile support a soft touch. In addition, the titration of these son 2, that is to say the weight of said son per unit length, may be between 100 and 1000 decitex (Dtex).

According to another embodiment, the yarns 2 of the textile support consisting of a yarn comprise a combination of staple fibers based on a natural material, such as cotton, or an artificial material, such as viscose and staple fibers based on of a synthetic material, for example polyester, polyamide or polyacrylic.

The textured yarns 1 may comprise at least one, especially several, continuous filaments based on a synthetic material such as polyester, polyamide or polyacrylic. In a manner known to those skilled in the art, the filament may be textured by means of a machine employing a conventional texturing technique, for example a false twist technique or an air jet texturing technique, in order to confer on said filament elasticity, apparent volume, extensibility, covering, touch and appearance properties. In addition, the titration of the textured yarns 1 can be between 10 and 300 Dtex.

According to a first embodiment, the textile layer is formed of a mesh knit and therefore comprises a bonding knit made with the textured yarns 1, in which the yarns 2 consisting of a yarn of discontinuous fibers are inserted in a chain. The knitted knit formed is for example a knit with gathered stitches or knit stitches (chain or Raschel).

To do this, the method of manufacturing the interlining provides for forming the knit fabric from the textured yarns 1, and then introducing into said knit the yarns 2 of spun yarn of staple fibers by appropriate means such as bars. with passettes.

According to a second embodiment, and in connection with the figure, the textile layer is formed of a knit mesh knit, that is to say that the knit formed from the textured yarns 1 also comprises a weft son 3 insertion . The knitted mesh knit may be of the type with knit stitches in which are inserted, at the time of forming the stitch, 3 weft threads over the entire width of the knit in different weaves of bindings. In particular, the inserted weft threads 3 may comprise, like the warp threads 2, a spun yarn of staple fibers made from a natural or artificial material, or a combination of staple fibers made from a natural material or artificial and staple fibers based on a synthetic material. According to another embodiment, the weft threads 3 may be textured, so as to increase the extensibility of the textile layer in the weft direction, and thus to obtain anextensible textile layer both in the weft direction and in the warp direction. In the embodiment shown, the warp yarns 2 consisting of a staple fiber yarn have floats 4 on the surface of the textile layer, in particular to allow and facilitate the passage of a glazing needle while increasing the volume of the textile layer. In particular, the floats 4 are obtained on the son 2 formed of a yarn when said yarns are not maintained by all the piers 5 of the knit.

To do this, during the insertion of the warp threads 2 into the knit, it is possible to adjust the means for introducing said threads, for example threaded bars, so that said threads pass on one and the same side of several rows of jetty 5 stitches of the knit, which has the effect of making sections of warp son 2 embossed and thus having a float 4.

In addition, in relation to the figure, the length of the floats 4 is arranged as a function of the number of consecutive jetties 5 above which pass the warp yarns 2 comprising said floats.

According to a third embodiment not shown, the textile layer is formed of a fabric. Thus, in a manner known to those skilled in the art, the manufacturing method provides for producing the textile layer by perpendicular intercrossing of two sets of yarns (warp and weft). According to a first variant of this embodiment, the layer woven fabric may comprise pairs of yarns, said pairs each comprising a textured yarn and a yarn formed of a staple yarn.

According to a second variant of this embodiment, the woven textile layer may be arranged so that two consecutive warp threads are of different types, that is to say that the chain of said layer is arranged so as to comprise an alternation of textured yarns and yarns formed from yarn of staple fibers.

In addition, the woven textile layer may comprise weft yarns of any type, for example textured yarns, so as to increase the extensibility of the textile layer in the weft direction, and thus to obtain an extensible textile layer. in both the frame and the warp direction.

The method provides for subjecting the textile substrate to a finish comprising at least one retraction treatment of the textured yarns 1 and a mechanical treatment such as scraping or emerying of the yarns 2 consisting of a staple fiber yarn. In addition, the finishing may comprise a washing, dyeing, drying and thermofixing stabilization of the textile support.

In particular, the method may provide that the finishing of the textile support comprises a shrinkage treatment followed by a mechanical treatment, in order to perform said mechanical treatment on a textile support whose size has been permanently arranged.

The shrinkage treatment may consist, in known manner, of a thermal treatment of the textile support, for example by means of an oven or a machine in which said support is exposed to water vapor or to hot water, in order to cause the shrinkage of the textured yarns 1 of said support, and thus to increase the properties of elasticity and extensibility of said support. In addition, the shrinkage treatment makes it possible to increase the volume of the textured yarns 1.

In a known manner, the scraping makes it possible to bring out small sections of fibers which are on the surface of the yarns 2 constituted by a discontinuous yarn, in order to give the textile support a fluffy appearance, and thus to improve the feel and feel of the yarn. increase the volume of said medium. In addition, the textile support shown with floats 4, scraping is facilitated and increases the volume of the textile support.

Likewise, the grinding consists of giving the textile support a worn appearance by cutting flush with the fibers on the surface of the yarns 2 consisting of a discontinuous yarn, in order to give said support a surface feel.

According to one embodiment, the method can provide for the mechanical treatment on one side of the textile support, in particular on the face with floats 4. The fusible product network is then deposited on the other side, so as not to alter the mechanically treated face.

In addition, the mechanical treatment is preferably performed before the deposit of the fusible product network, in order to avoid altering said network. Indeed, the pattern of the network may be altered due in particular to the overvoltage that can be created in the direction of the chain by the scraping machine or by the cylinders of the emeryer. In addition, this overvoltage can generate irregular changes in the dimensions of the textile support.

Claims (11)

REVENDICATIONS1. A thermo-adhesive interlining for reinforcing a portion of a textile article, said interlining comprising a textile support of which at least one face is provided with a fusible product network, said support comprising at least one textile layer formed of a fabric, a mesh knit or a knit knit fabric, said interlining being characterized in that said layer incorporates in chain a combination of textured yarns (1) and yarns (2) consisting of a yarn of staple fibers, said support having undergone a finishing operation comprising at least one retraction treatment of the textured yarns (1) and a mechanical treatment of the scraping or emerying type of the yarns (2) consisting of a staple fiber yarn. 2. fusible interlining according to claim 1, characterized in that the yarns (2) consist of a yarn comprise staple fibers based on a natural or artificial material. 3. fusible interlining according to claim 1, characterized in that the yarns (2) consist of a yarn comprise a combination of staple fibers based on a natural or artificial material and staple fibers based on a synthetic material. 4. fusible interlocking according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the textured son (1) comprise at least one continuous filament based on a synthetic material. 5. fusible interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the textile layer comprises a bonding knit made with the textured yarns (1) in which are inserted in chain the son (2) consisting of a spun staple fibers. 6. fusible interlining according to claim 5, characterized in that the yarns (2) consist of a spun yarn of discontinuous fibers have floats (4) on the surface of the textile layer. 7. thermo-adhesive interlining according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the knit also comprises an insertion of son (3) weft. 8. fusible interlining according to claim 7, characterized in that the weft son (3) are textured. 9. A method of manufacturing a thermo-adhesive interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 8, said method providing for: providing a support comprising at least one textile layer formed of a fabric, a knit mesh or a mesh knit fabric, said layer incorporating in a chain a combination of textured yarns (1) and yarns (2) consisting of a staple fiber yarn; subjecting the support to a finishing operation comprising at least one retraction treatment of the textured yarns (1) and a mechanical treatment such as scraping or emerying of the yarns (2) consisting of a staple fiber yarn; deposit a network of fusible product on at least one side of the support. 10. Manufacturing process according to claim 9, characterized in that the mechanical treatment is performed on one side of the textile support, the fusible product network being deposited on the other side. 11. The manufacturing method according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the finishing comprises a shrinkage treatment followed by a mechanical treatment.