FR2955768A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANE AND PASTA COMPOUND - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase, at least one volatile linear alkane and at least one pasty compound of plant origin, said pasty compound being present in a content greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight composition

Description

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one volatile linear alkane and a pasty compound, and its use in the cosmetic field.

For various reasons related in particular to a better comfort of use (softness, emollience and others), the current cosmetic compositions comprise an aqueous phase and one or more oils, and are for example in the form of an emulsion of the oil type. in-water (O / W) consisting of an aqueous dispersant continuous phase and an oily disperse discontinuous phase.

These compositions are particularly sought after in cosmetics because they comprise, as external phase, an aqueous phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a cooler, less greasy and lighter feel than emulsions. H. In recent years, however, the cosmetic market is marked by a very strong demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin. Consumers want chemical-free formulations that they prefer natural or naturally occurring compounds, known for their better tolerance and affinity to the skin, and that are more respectful of the environment.

"Natural compound" means a compound that is obtained directly from the soil or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as, for example, grinding. , refining, distillation, purification or filtration. By compounds "of natural origin" is meant a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments annexes, causing changes not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising predominantly natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above. By way of non-limiting example of an adjunct chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by the control bodies such as Ecocert (reference system for organic cosmetics and January 2003) or defined in recognized textbooks in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10.

It is therefore sought to formulate compositions comprising fatty substances compatible with the formulation of "natural" and / or "certified organic" cosmetic products, and which has good cosmetic properties, while being stable, even in the presence of fairly large body fat (typically greater than 10%).

The Applicant has discovered that the combination of a pasty fatty compound of plant origin with a volatile linear alkane, preferably of plant origin, makes it possible to obtain a composition which is stable over time and which has good cosmetic properties, in particular a emollient / moisturizing feeling on application, quick penetration into the skin and a non-greasy feel.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase, at least one volatile linear alkane and at least one pasty compound of vegetable origin, said pasty compound being present in a content greater than 5% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratin materials such as skin, mucous membranes, scalp, eyes and / or keratin fibers such as eyelashes or hair.

Paste compound

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. A pasty compound is at a temperature of 23 ° C, in the form of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C., represents from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is more preferably 25 to 85%, and more preferably 30 to 60% by weight of the pasty compound. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., preferably represents from 40 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, more preferably from 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa. The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder. 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 ° C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample, the depth of penetration being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak.

The pasty compound is chosen from compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained synthetically from starting materials of vegetable origin. The pasty compound may be chosen in particular from isomericized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the Company. Desert Whale company under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, orange wax, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410). company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil such as Lipex 203 from Aarhuskarlshamn and mixtures thereof.

The pasty compound is present in the composition according to the invention in a content greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 12% by weight. and still more preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight. The amount of pasty compound may range, for example, from 5 to 40% by weight, better still from 10 to 30% by weight, in particular from 10 to 25% by weight, more particularly from 12 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

Volatile linear alkane.

By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)".

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). By "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the invention is meant a linear cosmetic alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg, that is to say 101 325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure. (760 mmHg). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg). More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg). Still more preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

The rate of evaporation of a volatile alkane according to the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) can be evaluated in particular by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below. after. Is introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in a chamber of about 0.3 m3 regulated temperature (25 ° C) and humidity (relative humidity 50%) 15 g volatile hydrocarbon solvent .

The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the hydrocarbon solvent. volatile, the blades being directed to the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer.

The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals. The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg / cm 2) as a function of time (in min). Then we calculate the evaporation rate that corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2) and per unit of time (minute).

According to a preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturated vapor pressure) at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.3 Pa. at 6000 Pa.

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.). More preferably, "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C). In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.). More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C).

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of from 30 to 120 ° C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 ° C. In particular, the flash point is measured according to ISO 3679.

According to one embodiment, an alkane that is suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature ( 25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.

Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one isotope 14C carbon (carbon 14), in particular the isotope 140 may be present in a ratio 140 / 120 greater than or equal to 1.10-1fi, preferably greater than or equal to 1.10-15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10-14, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5.10-13. Preferably, the ratio 140/120 is from 6.1013 to 1.2.1012.

The amount of isotopes 140 in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or else accelerator mass spectrometry (Accelerator Mass Spectrometry). Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.

By way of example of alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least a carbon).

These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and ntridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures. The volatile linear alkane alone can be used. It is alternatively or preferentially possible to use a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon atoms of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2 According to a first embodiment, a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 is used. examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of volatile linear alkanes C10 / C11, Cl1 / C12 or C12 / C13.

According to another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2. As examples, mention may in particular be made of volatile linear alkanes mixtures C1 0 / C12, or C12 / C14, for a number of carbon n even and the mixture Cl 1 / C13 for an uneven carbon number n.

According to a preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of alkanes, is used. Volatile linear Cl 1 / C13 or a mixture of C12 / C14 volatile linear alkanes. Other mixtures comprising more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as, for example, a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes having 7 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other in a number of carbon atoms. at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures of 2 linear volatile alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture. According to another embodiment of the invention, a volatile linear alkane mixture is used in which the volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

By way of examples of mixtures which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following mixtures: from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, Cn volatile linear alkane with n ranging from 7 to 14 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of linear Cn + volatile alkane x with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 8 and 14, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.

In particular, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of linear volatile C1 1 alkane (n-undecane), 45% by weight, preferably 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C13 alkane (n-tridecane) based on the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of alkanes is a nundecane / n-tridecane mixture. In particular such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059. According to another particular embodiment, n-dodecane is used, such as that sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 by SASOL.

According to another particular embodiment, n-tetradecane, such as that sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97, is used by SASOL.

According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. The composition of the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 50% by weight of volatile linear alkanes, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 5% to 30% by weight, particularly from 5% to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 5 to 15% by weight of weight of volatile linear alkanes relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and / or hydrophilic solvents such as polyols. The amount of water in the composition may be, for example, from 0.5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 40 to 75% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water used in the composition of the invention may be demineralised pure water, but also mineral water and / or thermal water and / or seawater, that is to say that is to say that the water of the composition may be partly or wholly constituted by a water chosen from mineral waters, thermal waters, sea waters and their mixtures. In general, a mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not always the case of a thermal water. Each of these waters contains, inter alia, solubilized minerals and / or trace elements. These waters are known to be used for purposes of specific treatment according to the particular trace elements and minerals they contain, such as hydration and desensitization of the skin or the treatment of certain dermatoses. By mineral or thermal waters, not only natural mineral or thermal waters will be designated, but also natural mineral or thermal waters enriched with mineral constituents and / or additional trace elements, as well as mineral and / or water-containing mineral solutions. trace elements prepared from purified water (demineralised or distilled).

A natural thermal or mineral water used according to the invention may, for example, be chosen from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, water of the Bourboule, the water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint Gervaisles-Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevar-les-Bains, the water of Digne, the water of Maizières, the water of Neyrac-les-Bains, the water of Lons-le-Saunier, the Eaux Bonnes, the water 35 of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau, the water of The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention may comprise a water-soluble organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower mono-alcohols, and water from Tercis-les-Bains. comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, polyols such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, pentanediol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol is glycerine which gives a better comfort to the application. Other polyols may be added to the glycerin to the extent that the qualities of the composition are maintained.

The amount of polyol (s) can range, for example, from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, and still more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight. weight and more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. surfactants

The composition according to the invention may comprise a surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, but only insofar as the presence of these surfactants does not affect the comfort (safety) of the composition. Reference can be made to "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRKOTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p.347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. a) Anionic surfactants

The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin, amino acids and amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates and alkyls. sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, anionic alkyl polyglucoside derivatives, soaps (fatty acid salts), soybean oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The anionic derivatives of plant-derived proteins are hydrophobic group protein hydrolysates, said hydrophobic group being able to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reacting the protein and / or the protein hydrolyzate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of plant origin, and the hydrophobic group can be in particular a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

As anionic derivatives of plant-based proteins that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of hydrolysates of wheat, soy, oat or silk proteins, comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and their salts. The alkyl chain may in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt may be a salt of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium. Mention may be made, for example, of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of lauric acid-modified silk protein hydrolysates, such as the product marketed under the name KAWA Silk by the company Kawaken; the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of wheat protein hydrolysates modified with lauric acid, such as the potassium salt marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda (CTFA name: Potassium lauroyl wheat aminoacids) and the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL LW 30 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat aminoacids); the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of oat protein hydrolysates having an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more particularly the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of Oat protein hydrolysates modified with lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL OAT (CTFA name: Sodium lauroyl oat aminoacids), PROTEOL SAV 50S (INCI name: Sodium cocoyl aminoacid), PROTEOL APL (INCI name: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) by Seppic, AMARANTH S (INCI name: sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed amaranth proteins) and mixtures thereof. As alkyl ether sulfates, mention may be made for example of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 OE) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225® or TEXAPON N702 PATE® by the company Cognis, lauryl ammonium ether sulfate (C12-14 70/30) (30E) sold under the name SIPON LEA 370® by Cognis, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (90E) ammonium sulphate marketed under the name RHODAPEX AB / 200 by the company Rhodia Chimie.35 As sulfonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulfonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulfonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIOTERGE AS-40® by the Stepan company, marketed under the names Witconate Aos PROTEGE® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by the company Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30® by the s Clariant company; linear alkyl aryl sulphonates, such as sodium xylene sulphonate sold under the names MANROSOL SXS30®, MANROSOL SXS40® and MANROSOL SXS93® by the company Manro. Mention may also be made of the alkyl sulphoacetate mixture, for example lauryl sulphoacetate, for example that sold as a mixture with sodium methyl-2-sulpholaurate and sulpholaurate-2-disodium under the reference STEPAN MILD PCL by the company. Stepan. As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON Cl P® by the company Jordan.

As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or sold under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl sodium methyltaurate sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol. As sulfosuccinates, there may be mentioned, for example, the oxyethylenated (30E) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) monosulfinate sold under the trade names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (20E) di-sodium oleamide sulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by the company Cognis, the oxyethylenated lauric amide mono-sulfosuccinate (50E) marketed under the name LEBON A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate (10 OE) ) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of lauric alcohol monosulfosuccinate sold under the name REWOPOL SB F12P0 by the company Witco, the mono-sulfos ricinoleic monoethanolamide uccinate sold under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. As phosphates and alkylphosphates, mention may be made, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol phophoric acid diester (7 moles of EO), sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by Condea, potassium salt or triethanolamine monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under the denomination DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by the company Rhodia Chimie. The anionic derivatives of alkyl-polyglucosides may in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from the alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET® by the company Cesalpinia, the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside sulfosuccinic ester (1,4). ), marketed under the name ESSAI 512 MP® by the company Seppic, the sodium salt of citric ester cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4) sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC® by the company Cesalpinia.

In particular, the anionic surfactants may be chosen from soaps (fatty acid salts), derivatives of soybean oil, lactic acid derivatives, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

The soaps are obtained from a fatty acid which is partially or totally saponified (neutralized) with a basic agent. These are alkali or alkaline-earth metal soaps or organic bases. As fatty acids, it is possible to use saturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may in particular be chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid and mixtures thereof. As basic agents, it is possible to use, for example, alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide), alkaline earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium), ammonium hydroxide, or even organic bases such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine. The soaps may be in particular alkali salts of fatty acid, the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide, and preferably potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide (KOH). The amount of basic agent must be sufficient for the fatty acid to be at least partially neutralized. Mention may in particular be made of sodium or potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium cocoate or stearic acid salts of KOH formed in situ.

The derivatives of soybean oil and their salts are in particular the fatty acids and salts of fatty acids derived from soybean oil (whose INCI name is "glycine soybean oil" or "soybean oil") and in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, and fatty acids derived from soybean, such as potassium soyate, for example that marketed by Noveon,

As acylamino acids, mention may be made, for example, of sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS-12, sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCK-12, cocoyl glutamate of disodium marketed by Ajinomoto company under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, sodium lauroyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS11, lauroyl sodium sarcosinate marketed by Seppic under the name ORAMIX L 30, sodium and disodium stearoyl glutamate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the names Amisoft HS21 P and HS11 Pf and cocoyl sarcosinate sodium marketed by the company ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name Protelan LS 9011 / C. Mention may also be made of the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats such as Proteol OAT marketed by the company Seppic or the compound bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl aminoacids such as Proteol SAV 5OS from Seppic. The amino acid derivatives may be chosen for example from sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or marketed under the name ORAMIX L 30® by the company Seppic, myristoyl sodium sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikol alkanate LN 30® by the company Nikkol or marketed under the name Alanone Ale® by the company Kawaken, and N-lauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine, marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken; N-acylglutamates such as triethanolamine mono-cocoylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12® by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by Ajinomoto, cocoyl-glutamate. triethanolamine sold under the name Amisoft CT-12® by Ajinomoto; aspartates such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name ASPARACK® by the company Mitsubishi; citrates.

The lactic acid derivatives or their salts may be chosen from acyl lactylic acid derivatives, their salts (lactylates) such as stearoyl lactylate such as for example that marketed by Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2980; sodium stearoyl lactylate as proposed for example by the company Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2990, by Karlshamns AB under the name Akoline SL, by the company Uniquema under the name Priazul 2134 or by Dr. Straetmans under the name Dermofeel SL ; sodium isostearoyl lactylate such as that marketed by Uniquema under the name Priazul 2133; sodium behenoyl lactylate, for example, sold by Rita Corporation under the name Pationic SBL; sodium cocoyl lactylate such as that sold by the company Rita under the name Pationic SCL, sodium oleoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate (PATIONIC 138C Caravan), sodium caproyl lactylate (CAPMUL S8L-G Abitec).

Mention may also be made of cocoamphoacetate sodium, glycerin, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoylglutamate, lauryl glucose sodium carboxylate sold by Cognis under the reference Plantapon SF.

b) Amphoteric surfactants The amphoteric surfactants (this term including amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants) can be chosen, for example, from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates and their mixtures.

As betaines, there may be mentioned in particular alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine such as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30® by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine as the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant, laurylbetaine oxyethylenated (10 OE), such as the product sold under the name LAURYLETHER (10 OE) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica, stearyl betaine oxyethylenated (10 OE) as the product sold under the name STEARYLETHER (10 OE) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica company.

Among the N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, mention may be made, for example, of cocamidopropyl betaine marketed under the name LEBON 2000 HG® by the company Sanyo, under the name EMPIGEN BB® by the company Albright & Wilson, under the names Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, or those sold in admixture with glyceryl lauratec, such as the commercial references Tego Betain HS or Antil HS 60 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, lauramidopropyl betaine marketed under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P® by the company Witco.

As sultaines, there may be mentioned cocoylamidopropylhydroxy-sulfobetaine marketed under the name CROSULTAINE C-50® by the company Croda.35 Horn alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APAC), mention may be made of sodium cocoylpolyamino-carboxylate, sold under the name AMPHOLAK 7 CX / C®, and AMPHOLAK 7 CX® by the company Akzo Nobel, the sodium stearyl-polyamidocarboxylate sold under the name AMPHOLAK 7 TX / C by Akzo Nobel, sodium carboxymethylolpropylamine, marketed under the name AMPHOLAK XO7 / C® by Akzo Nobel.

As alkylamphoacetates, mention may be made, for example, of N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-di-sodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate), such as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRA NP® by the company Rhodia Chemistry, and N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate). b) Nonionic surfactants

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen for example from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, sucrose esters, hydrophobic gums, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glycerol esters oxyalkylenated esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty acid and sorbitan esters, glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-n-methylglucamine, and their mixtures.

As alkylpolyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 units of saccharide. . Mention may be made, for example, of decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cl-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10® by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP® by the company Cognis, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company Seppic or PLANTACARE 810 P by the company Cognis; laurylglucoside, such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N® and PLANTACARE 1200® by the company Cognis; and coco-glucoside, such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP® by the company Cognis, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name Montanov 82 by the company Seppic, the C12 to C20 alkyl glucosides such as those sold in admixture with fatty alcohols; C14 to C22 under the reference MONTANOV L by the company Seppic.

The oxyalkylenated glycerol esters are in particular the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of glyceryl and fatty acid esters and their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen, for example, from glyceryl esters of hydrogenated and oxyethylenated fatty acids, such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Tegosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-63 by the company Goldschmidt; and their mixtures.

The oxyalkylenated sugar esters are in particular the polyethylene glycol ethers of the fatty acid and sugar esters. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen for example from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate sold under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol.

The fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol are preferably esters of C16-C22 fatty acids containing from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl and, preferably, a stearyl chain. The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to 40.

By way of example of fatty acid ester and of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising, respectively, 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as the products marketed respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE, CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE, CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53, Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA.

The esters of C16-C22 fatty acids and of sorbitan are in particular esters of C16-C22 acids and of sorbitan and are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain. having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms with sorbitol. These esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, sorbitan oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates, and preferably sorbitan stearates, are preferably used.

By way of example of sorbitan ester which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company. Croda company under the name Span 65 V, the sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40, the sorbitan monoleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V, the trioleate sorbitan sold by Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.

The esters of glyceryl and fatty acid can be obtained in particular from an acid having a linear saturated alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.

Mention may also be made of the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol 100 0E monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda.

As sucrose esters, mention may be made of sucrose esters of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters possibly comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as, for example, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose laurate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose myristate and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made of sucrose cocoate such as TEGOSOFT PSE from GOLDSCHMIDT, sucrose myristate such as Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods Corp.'s Surfhope SE COSME C-1416, sucrose laurate such as Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, sucrose laurate such as Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L, the mixture of sucrose esters and palmitic and / or stearic acids (INCI name sucrose palmitate) as sold under the reference Surfhope SE COSME C-1616. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sucrose: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company CRODESTA, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTERS, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name TEGOSOFT PSE.

Preferably the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, as described above, which is preferably of natural origin, in which are included the compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by synthesis chemical. This nonionic surfactant may in particular be chosen from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), fatty acid sucrose esters, glyceryl and fatty acid esters, as described above, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, in particular of plant origin, or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin (for example xanthan gum). This polysaccharide derived from the plant may optionally be chemically modified to promote its hydrophilic valence, as is the case of cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses (eg hydroxyethylcellulose).

As examples of polysaccharides of vegetable origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:

a) algae extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof. As examples of carrageenans, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from Degussa; as alginates, mention may be made of sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP; (b) gums, such as guar gum and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac® (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN;

(c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables such as sweet peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches ; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; as examples, mention may in particular be made of Remy DR 1® rice starch marketed by Remy; cornstarch B® from Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch;

d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from National Starch; e) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. As examples, mention may be made of cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon; and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2%. in weight. It can be completely free of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers. Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (Carbopol family), acrylic / alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co) polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen). , Sepigel or Simulgel, Aristoflex).

Phase qrasse

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises all liposoluble or lipodispersible compounds present in the composition, including fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) or oils (which form the oily phase), and especially the linear volatile alkane, solid fatty substances at room temperature such as waxes, or pasty compounds, fatty alcohols, fatty acids.

Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the volatile linear alkane, a so-called additional oil, which may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from preferably from 1 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, jojoba, babassu and sunflower oils; , olive, coconut, brazil nuts, marula, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil; Esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl erucate -2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of the following oils: esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and from at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS, - fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis), - glycerol ethers containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethyl hexyl ether, glycerol (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH. Preferably, the additional oil contains is chosen from vegetable oils, in particular coconut oil, Babassu oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and their derivatives. mixtures. Preferably, the oily phase of the composition (including the oils) comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of non-vegetable oils. According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the composition exclusively comprises oils of vegetable origin.

The composition according to the invention may have a total content of oils (including volatile linear alkanes and additional oils) ranging from 5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and better still from 5 to 30% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the total content of oils in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 5%, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C., and capable of go up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. For the purposes of the present invention, hard wax is understood to mean a wax exhibiting at 20 ° C. a hardness greater than 5 MPa, in particular ranging from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPa, more preferably from 6 to 25 MPa. MPa. The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measurement protocol is as follows: the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting temperature of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before making the measurement. hardness or stickiness. The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.1 mm / s, then penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the mobile penetrated into the wax to the depth of 0.3 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s. The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax. As wax, there may be waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumac wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohol. chain C12 to C18 sold by the company SOPHIM in the range Phytowax (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), rice bran wax, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenic, laurel wax, Ouricury wax . The wax may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may, in addition, contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, perfume peptizers, dyestuffs, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as linden water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils ; vitamins such as for example retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivatives such as by examples are the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures.

Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition. As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name LUZENAC M00® by the company LUZENAC, kaolin or aluminum silicate such as for example that marketed under the name denomination KAOLIN SUPREME® by the company IMERYS, or organic fillers such as starch, for example the product marketed under the name AMIDON DE MAIS B® by the company ROQUETTE, and nylon microspheres sold under the name ORGASOL 2002 UD. NAT COS® by ATOCHEM, the microspheres based on vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methacrylonitrile copolymer enclosing isobutane, expanded such as those sold under the name Expancel 551 DE® by Expancel. Fibers such as, for example, nylon fibers (POLYAMIDE 0.9 DTEX 0.3 MM sold by PAUL BONTE Establishments, cellulose fibers or "Rayonne" (CORN FLOCK RAKE NO003 MO4®) marketed by the Company, can also be added to the composition of the invention. CLAREMONT FLOCK CORPORATION).

The compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied to keratinous substances such as the skin (body, face, eyes, scalp) and / or ketatinic fibers and may constitute in particular care products, make-up products, make-up removers or cleaning keratin materials, or hair products.

The composition according to the invention may be in any topical dosage form normally used and be in particular in the form of emulsions obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O). ), triple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H) or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type. It is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, hair, and / or lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said keratin materials.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and are not limiting in nature. All amounts are given in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The names of the compounds are indicated according to the case in chemical names or in INCI names.

Examples 1 and 2: Face Care Creams Ex. 1 Ex. 2 (Invention) (Comparative) Composition of active ingredient Water qs 100 qs 100 Al Glycerine 7.2 7.2 Sodium phytate 0.05 0.05 Potassium sorbate 0, 15 0.15 A2 Xanthan Gum 0.17 0.17 Salicylic Acid 0.2 0.2 Cetearyl Glucoside Mixed 5 Cetearyl Alcohol ((MONTANOV 68 from Seppic) Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (AxoL C62 PELLETS 1 1 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT ) Cetearyl Alcohol 1.5 1.5 Organic Shea Butter (Emile Noel) 16 - B Castor Oil (Pharmaceutical Castor Oil - 16 Olvea) Babassu Oil 3 3 Mixture consisting mainly of n-8 8 undecane: n- tridecane as prepared according to the application W02008 / 155059 Tocopherols 0.1 0.1 Carnauba wax 1 1 Water 1.13 1.13 C Hydroxide 0.07 0.07 Glycerine 0.6 0.6 Anisic acid 0, 2 0.2 Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 1 1 D perfume 0.25 0.25 Citric acid qsp pH 5.2 qsp pH 5.2 +/- 0.2 +/- 0.2 Appearance phase B at 80 ° C before homogeneous non-emulsification hom ogenous Rheomat viscosity (200 rpm) measured at 10 18 UD 11 UD min at 25 ° C _24 h after formulation Mobile 4 Mobile 4 (approximately (ie 27 43 poises) poises) Rheomat viscosity (200 rpm) measured at 10 16 UD 46 UD min at 25 ° C - after 2 months at room temperature Mobile 4 Mobile 3 room temperature (25 ° C) (approximately (ie 17 37 poise) poises) Viscosity difference: 6 poises 10 poises Manufacturing procedure: Solubilization from Al to cold ù Addition of A2 until complete hydration. Heat Al + A2 to 70 ° C. Heat the ingredients of phase B to 80 ° C.

Emulsification of B in A at 70 ° C. Heat phase C at 65 ° C until it is homogeneous and introduce it into the emulsion at 65 ° C. The ingredients of phase D are introduced into the emulsion when the latter has returned to a temperature below 40 ° C. The emulsion is then poured at about 40 ° C. 5 qualified people evaluated the sensory properties of each composition by applying the tested composition on the back of the hand.

The composition of Example 1 was judged to provide a more emollient feel to the application, a faster penetration than that of Comparative Example 2, moreover it does not leave a greasy film on the skin, unlike the composition 2. In addition, the composition of Example 1 has a small variation in viscosity over time, it is more stable in time than the composition of Example 2.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase, at least one volatile linear alkane and at least one pasty compound of plant origin, said pasty compound being present in a content greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said volatile linear alkane comprises from 7 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms. 3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-heptane, n-octane, n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n -tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane is selected from dodecane, tetradecane and their mixture. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by carbon number of 1 or 2. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes comprising - from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of linear Cn volatile alkane with n ranging from 7 to 14 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, volatile linear alkane Cn + x with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 8 and 14, relative to the total weight of alkanes in said mixture. 25 30 35 7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a mixture n-undecane: n-tridecane (C11 / C13) comprising - from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of linear volatile alkane C1 (n-undecane) - from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear alkane in C13 (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixed. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.5% to 50% by weight of volatile linear alkanes, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 5% to 50% by weight. from 30% to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 5% to 15% by weight. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound (s) are lipophilic fatty compounds with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a fraction. solid. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound comprises a liquid fraction, measured at 23 ° C, representing from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. 25 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound is chosen from isomericated jojoba oil, orange wax, cupuacu butter, shea butter, olive oil and partially hydrogenated olive, cocoa butter, mango oil and mixtures thereof. 30 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound is present in a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still or equal to 12% by weight and more preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of pasty compound ranges from 5 to 40% by weight, better still from 10 to 30% by weight, in particular from 10 to 25% by weight, more particularly from 12 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13 is applied to said keratin materials.