FR2951941A1 - Cosmetic use of at least one plant of species Rubus idaeus and/or its extract as an agent to reduce or prevent whitening of hair and/or body hair, where the plant or its extract is applied topically on skin or its appendages - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of at least one plant of species Rubus idaeus(I) and/or its extract as an agent to reduce or prevent whitening of hair and/or body hair, where the plant or its extract is applied topically on the skin or its appendages, is claimed. Independent claims are included for: the extract of at least one plant of species Rubus idaeus; and (2) cosmetic treatment comprising topically applying the extract of Rubus idaeusor a composition containing the extract on the skin or its appendages. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic treatment methods for preventing or reducing whitening of integuments, and the use of plant extracts as an agent for promoting pigmentation of integuments and / or for limiting and / or preventing depigmentation. In particular, it relates to extracts of Rubus idaeus, or compositions containing them, for combating canities.

The color of human hair and skin is a function of various factors including seasons of the year, race, sex and age. It is mainly determined by the concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells that, via particular organelles, melanosomes, synthesize melanin.

The synthesis of melanin or melanogenesis is complex and involves schematically the following main steps: Tyrosine ---> Dopa ---> Dopaquinone ---> Dopachrome ---> Melanin

Tyrosinase (monophenol dihydroxyl phenylalanine: oxygen oxidoreductase EC 1.14.18.1) is involved in this series of reactions by catalyzing in particular the conversion reaction of tyrosine to Dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine) and the conversion reaction of Dopa to Dopaquinone.

The upper part of the hair follicle presents itself as a tubular invagination of the epidermis which penetrates to the deep layers of the dermis. The lower part, or hairy bulb, itself has an intussusception in which is the dermal papilla. Around the dermal papilla, there is an area populated by cells with a high rate of proliferation (matrix cells) in the lower part of the bulb. These cells are the precursors of the keratinized cells that will constitute the hair. The cells that result from the proliferation of these precursors migrate vertically into the bulb and keratinize gradually in the upper part of the bulb, this set of keratinized cells will form the hair shaft: The hair and hair color is partly based on the presence in quantities and variable ratios of two groups of melanins: eumelanins (brown and black pigments) and pheomelanines (red and yellow pigments). The pigmentation of hair and hair requires the presence of melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle. These melanocytes are active, ie they synthesize melanins. This melanin is transmitted to the keratinocytes intended to form the hair shaft which will result in the growth of a pigmented hair or hair. This structure is called "follicular unit of pigmentation". In mammals, melanogenesis involves at least three enzymes: tyrosinase, DOPAchrome tautomerase (TRP-2) and DHICAoxidase (TRP-1). Tyrosinase is the enzyme that initiates the biosynthesis of melanins. It is also described as the enzyme limiting melanogenesis. Tyrosinase catalyzes the oxidation of tyrosine to Dopa and Dopaquinone. The Dopaquinone compound is spontaneously converted to Dopachrome, or cysteinyldopa derivatives in the presence of cysteine. TRP-2 catalyzes the tautomerization of Dopachrome to 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA). In the absence of TRP-2, Dopachrome undergoes spontaneous decarboxylation to form 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI). Finally, TRP-1 oxidizes DHICA compounds to form quinone derivatives. The three tyrosinase enzymes, TRP-2 and TRP-1 appear specifically involved in eumelanogenesis. In addition, the activity of these three enzymes has been described as necessary for the maximal activity of biosynthesis of eumelanines.

Hair and hair undergo a cycle. This cycle comprises a growth phase (anagen phase), a degeneration phase (catagen phase) and a rest phase (telogen phase) following which a new anagen phase will develop. Because of this hair cycle, the follicular unit of pigmentation must also be cyclically renewed. In humans, during the telogen-anagen transition, part of the inactive melanocytes contained in the telogen capsule proliferates, is positioned around the dermal papilla of the nascent bulb, and begins to express the enzymes necessary for the synthesis of melanins such as tyrosinase and TRP-1, but not the TRP-2 enzyme (Pigment Cell Res 2004 Oct; 17: 488-497). In parallel, the other part of quiescent melanocytes remains inactive in the upper region of the hair follicle. The tyrosinase and TRP-1 enzymes will be expressed in the hair bulb melanocytes throughout the anagen phase but will no longer be expressed in the melanocytes during the catagenic phase and the telogen phase. Thus the normal cycle of melanocytes in the human hair follicle requires the presence of precursor melanocytes in the upper region of the hair follicle which will be cyclically activated to regenerate the follicular unit of pigmentation.

It is known that in most populations the maintenance of a constant color of the hair are important aspirations.

It is accepted that the appearance of hairs and / or gray or white hair, or canitie, is associated with a decrease of melanin in the hair shaft. This phenomenon occurs naturally during the life of an individual. However, the human being seeks to look younger and for aesthetic purposes, he is often tempted to fight this phenomenon, especially when it occurs at a relatively early age. Many solutions have thus been proposed in the field of artificial coloring by the addition of exogenous dyes intended to give the hair a coloration as close as possible to what it is naturally. Another approach is to stimulate the natural way of pigmentation.

Among the proposed solutions, mention may be made of compositions containing a phosphodiesterase inhibitor (WO9517161), DNA fragments (WO9501773), diacylglycerol (WO9404122), prostaglandins (WO9511003) or pyrimidine 3-oxide derivatives (EP829260). ). The application WO 04/073594 proposes the use of inhibitors of the enzyme 15-PGDH.

However, there is still a need for new effective solutions to promote the pigmentation of hair and / or hair and thus prevent or reduce canities.

Unexpectedly, it has now been found that this and other purposes can be achieved by the use of the Rubus idaeus plant of its fractions and / or extracts.

Therefore, the subject of the present invention is the use of at least one plant of the Rubus idaeus species, its fractions and / or their extracts, as an agent for reducing or preventing whitening of the hair and / or hair, said plant or extracts thereof being applied topically to the skin or its appendages.

Raspberry (Rubus idaeus) or Mount Ida bramble is a sub-shrub of the family Rosaceae that produces a fleshy fruit composed of small red drupes: raspberry.

It is a shrub with upright stems, cylindrical up to 1.5 to 2 m high. These stems are biennial and die the second year after fruiting. The perennial strain, emits new stems each year. The stems are armed with spicy prickles. The leaves are pinnate, those of the base have 5 to 7 toothed leaflets, the upper leaves are trifoliate. They are tomentose, whitish on their lower face.

The white flowers are gathered in groups of 5 to 10. The pistil is formed of many carpels. JP200302663 discloses compositions for topical applications containing raspberry extracts having bleaching activity. Applications JP2005047860 or KR20020076775 relate to cosmetic compositions comprising complex mixtures of active ingredients including raspberry extracts, for a lightening action of the complexion and to inhibit the synthesis of melanin. Also a drink "to prolong life" containing many plant extracts of traditional Chinese medicine including raspberry, is proposed in CN101343606 for many effects on the body. CN1078903 discloses a rice liquor also comprising numerous plant extracts for treating poliosis and alopecia.

However, to the knowledge of the applicants, it has never been proposed to use Rubus idaeus or its extracts to limit, prevent or stop the progression of canities and / or promote the natural re-pigmentation of integuments, in particular hair and / or hair, by topical application to the skin or its appendages.

The subject of the invention is therefore the use of at least one plant of the species Rubus idaeus, one of its fractions and / or one of its extracts or a composition containing them, as agent to promote and / or induce and / or stimulate the pigmentation of integuments, and / or as an agent for preventing and / or limiting the depigmentation and / or whitening of integuments, especially as an agent for preventing and / or limiting canities; this agent is more particularly used in mammals, in particular in humans. Said plant or its extracts are advantageously applied to the skin or its appendages.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one plant species Rubus idaeus, one of its fractions and / or one of its extracts in a composition adapted to an application on the skin and / or its appendages, for promoting and / or inducing and / or stimulating the pigmentation of the integuments, and / or for preventing and / or limiting depigmentation and / or whitening of the integuments and / or for preventing and / or preventing / or limit canities.

The invention also relates to the use of at least one plant of the species Rubus idaeus of one of its fractions and / or of one of its extracts for the preparation of a composition intended to promote and / or induce and / or stimulate the pigmentation of the integuments, and / or intended to prevent and / or limit depigmentation and / or whitening of the integuments and / or intended to prevent and / or limit canities, said composition comprising excipients suitable for an application topically on the skin and / or its appendages.

By skin is meant the entire skin, including the scalp and mucous membranes. By dander, we mean all the integumentary appendages and in particular the nails, the hair and the hair. By hair and hair is meant all the hairy appendages and in particular also the eyelashes and the eyebrows. By at least one is meant one or two or more, including mixtures in all proportions of the various elements mentioned. Unless otherwise specified, the term "a" in this application shall be understood to mean "at least one".

The extract of Rubus ideus useful according to the invention can be obtained from all parts of the plant and in particular selected from flower extracts, fruit extracts, leaf extracts and bark extracts of Rubus idaeus. , and their mixtures in all proportions. According to one embodiment, a fruit extract is used which may come from all parts of the fruit, including seeds. In another aspect, the useful extracts according to the invention are prepared from the leaves of Rubus idaeus. By extract is meant both a raw mixture of parts of the plant roughly reduced in pieces and the extraction solvent as more or less elaborate fractions or preparations solubilized active principles during extraction. A total extract can be used, that is to say an extract comprising all the fractions present in the Rubus idaeus parts, possibly devoid of the cellulosic parts. According to another embodiment of the invention, at least one extract enriched in certain fractions will be used.

The extract can be obtained by any method for preparing a plant extract known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the extract may be obtained by maceration of the part of the plant in water, or in a solvent composed of a mixture of water and an organic solvent, for example water-alcohol, or water- acetone, or water-propylene glycol, or water-butylene glycol. The plant / solvent ratio may vary for example and without limitation from 1/4 to 1/20. Advantageously, the preparation of the extract begins by grinding the parts of the plant followed by maceration in the extraction solvent for several hours. Extraction can be performed with stirring to improve performance. The extraction can be carried out at ambient temperature or by increasing the temperature, for example at 50 ° C. or else at 60 ° C. Once the extraction is carried out, the solution obtained is filtered. The solution thus obtained can be concentrated by any method known to those skilled in the art. Similarly, the solution obtained can be lyophilized by any conventional freeze-drying method, thereby obtaining a powder. The extraction from the fruit of Rubus idaeus (raspberry) can lead, according to a particular method of realization, to the preparation of an essential oil. The extract in the form of a concentrated solution, as well as the extract in powder form, as well as the extract in the form of an essential oil may be taken up in a suitable medium for a topical treatment for man.

Advantageously, the extract is chosen from extracts obtained by a mixture of water and alcohol in all proportions, in particular the alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extracts of Rubus idaeus, in particular an extract obtained by a mixture of water and propylene glycol . Such extracts are recorded for example with the CAS number 84929-76-0. Such extracts are marketed for example by the company Draco Natural Products Inc. under the trade name "Organic Raspberry Powdered Extract 4%", or by Northern Light Food Processing under the trade name "BerryMax TM Red Raspberry Seed powder", or by the company Cosmetochem under the trade name "raspberry herbasol vinegare extract".

Advantageously, the plant or its extracts are present in a composition suitable for topical application containing physiologically acceptable excipients. The compositions according to the invention may be applied externally, and their formulation will be adapted by those skilled in the art, in particular for cosmetic or dermatological compositions. They contain a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetologically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, in particular a dermatologically acceptable medium. In a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains excipients suitable for administration to the scalp. The compositions suitable for the implementation of the invention are in particular cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, or pharmaceutical compositions.

By "cosmetic composition" is meant in particular any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and hair system, nails, lips and external genitals) or with the teeth and mucous membranes. exclusively or principally for the purpose of cleaning, perfuming, changing the appearance and / or correcting body odor and / or protecting or maintaining it in good condition (Cosmetic Directive 76/768 Amended).

The composition may comprise a cosmetologically acceptable medium which may consist of water or a mixture of water and at least one solvent chosen from hydrophilic organic solvents, lipophilic organic solvents, amphiphilic organic solvents and mixtures thereof. Anhydrous medium means a solvent medium containing less than 1% water. This medium may consist of a solvent or a mixture of solvents chosen more particularly from C 2 -C 4 lower alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of alkylene glycols or dialkylene glycols, of which the alkyl or alkylene radicals contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term "aqueous medium" means a medium consisting of water or a mixture of water and another physiologically acceptable solvent, chosen especially from the organic solvents mentioned above. In the latter case, these other solvents, when present, represent about 5 to 95% by weight of the composition. It is possible that the physiologically acceptable medium may contain other adjuvants usually used in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field, such as surfactants, thickeners or gelling agents, cosmetic agents, preservatives, alkalinizing or acidifying agents well known in the state of the art, and in sufficient quantities to obtain the desired form of presentation, in particular more or less thickened lotion, gel, emulsion, or cream. The use may optionally be in a pressurized aerosol or vaporized form from a pump bottle.

For a topical application, the composition that may be used according to the invention may especially be in the form of aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions or suspensions, or of the lotion or serum-type dispersion, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency. or pastes, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O) or multiple, of a free or compacted powder to be used as such or to incorporate in a physiologically acceptable medium, or else microcapsules or microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type. It can thus be in the form of ointment, tincture, milks, cream, ointment, powder, patch, soaked buffer, solution, emulsion or vesicular dispersion, lotion, aqueous gels or anhydrous, spray, suspension, shampoo, aerosol or foam. It can be anhydrous or aqueous. It can also consist of solid preparations constituting soaps or cleaning rolls. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

The composition that may be used according to the invention may in particular consist of a composition for hair care, and in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a styling cream or gel, restructuring lotions for the hair, a mask etc. The cosmetic composition according to the invention will preferably be a cream, a hair lotion, a shampoo or a conditioner. It can be used in particular in treatments using an application that is followed or not followed by rinsing, or in the form of shampoo. It is also possible to envisage a composition in the form of a foam or in the form of a spray or an aerosol then comprising a propellant under pressure.

It can thus be in the form of a lotion, serum, milk, O / W cream or W / O, gel, ointment, ointment, powder, balm, patch, soaked pad, bread, mousse.

In particular, the composition for application to the scalp or the hair may be in the form of a hair care lotion, for example a daily or bi-weekly application, a shampoo or a hair conditioner, in particular of bi-weekly or weekly application, of a liquid soap or solid daily application scalp cleansing, of a shaping product of the hairstyle (lacquer, product for setting in crease, styling gel ), a mask, a cream or a foaming gel for cleaning the hair. It can still be in the form of hair dye or mascara to be applied by brush or comb.

Furthermore, for an application on the eyelashes or the hairs, the composition to which the invention applies may be in the form of a mascara, pigmented or not, to be applied to the brush on the eyelashes or on the hairs For use orally, the composition may be in the form of capsules, granules, oral syrups or tablets.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of hair cream or lotion, shampoo or hair conditioner, hair mascara or eyelashes.

The amounts of the various constituents of the physiological medium of the composition according to the invention are those generally used in the fields considered. It may also be in the form of dye or mascara to be applied by brush or comb, in particular on eyelashes, eyebrows or hair.

The amounts of the various constituents of the compositions that can be used according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.

When the composition that can be used according to the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, the waxes, the emulsifiers and the co-emulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20%, or even from 1% to 8% by weight relative to total weight of the composition. The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles or spherules.

When the composition that can be used according to the invention is an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition is an aqueous, alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic solution or suspension and better a water / ethanol solution or suspension. The alcoholic fraction can represent from 5% to 99.9% and better still from 8% to 80%.

For a mascara application, in particular eyelashes, the composition of the invention is a wax-in-water or wax-in-oil dispersion, a gelled oil, an aqueous gel, this mascara being, in addition, pigmented or not .

Advantageously, the composition will comprise microspheres, nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or nanocapsules, in which at least one plant or one of its extracts will be encapsulated. Examples of such formulations are described in particular in patents EP199636, EP 375520, EP447318, EP557489, WO 97/12602, EP1151741 or US 5,914,126.

By way of example, the microspheres may be prepared according to the method described in patent application EP 0 375 520. The nanospheres may be in the form of an aqueous suspension and may be prepared according to the methods described in patent applications FR 0015686 and FR 0101438.

The oleosomes consist of an oil-in-water emulsion formed by oily globules provided with a lamellar liquid crystal coating dispersed in an aqueous phase (see patent applications EP 0 641 557 and EP 0 705 593).

The plant Rubus idaeus or its extracts may also be encapsulated in nanocapsules consisting of a lamellar coating obtained from a silicone surfactant as described in the patent application EP 0 780 115; the nanocapsules may also be prepared based on water-dispersible sulfonic polyesters according to, for example, the technique described in the patent application FR 0113337. In a known manner, the composition according to the invention may also contain adjuvants which are usual in the cosmetic field, such as the hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, and for example from 0.01% to 20%, especially less than or equal to 10% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules. The fatty phase may contain fatty or oily compounds, which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), generally called oils. These oils may or may not be compatible with each other and form a macroscopically homogeneous liquid fatty phase or a two- or three-phase system.

The fatty phase may, in addition to the oils, contain waxes, gums, lipophilic polymers, "pasty" or viscous products containing solid parts and liquid parts.

The aqueous phase contains water and optionally a miscible ingredient in all proportion to the water, such as C 1 -C 8 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, and the like. sorbitol or acetone or ether.

As oils or waxes that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils (vaseline oil), vegetable oils (liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil), animal oils (perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils ( Purcellin oil), silicone oils or waxes (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers), bees, carnauba or paraffin waxes. To these oils can be added fatty alcohols and fatty acids (stearic acid). As emulsifiers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, or glycerol laurate, sorbitol stearates or oleates, alkyl dimethiconecopolyol (with alkyl 8) and their mixtures for an W / O emulsion. It is also possible to use polyethylene glycol monostearate or monolaurate, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol stearate or oleate, dimethiconecopolyols and mixtures thereof, in particular polysorbate 60 and the PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate mixture sold under the name Tefose. ® 63 by the company Gattefosse.

As solvents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol.

As hydrophilic gelling agents that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as Bentones®, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose. When the composition is thickened or gelled with a thickening agent, the latter is generally present in concentrations of between about 0.1 and 6% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of plant or extract Rubus idaeus will be adapted by the skilled person depending on the nature of the asset and the desired effect. As an indication, the extract of Rubus idaeus will be present in the composition at a concentration of between 0.01 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1 to 20%.

The compositions or extracts of Rubus idaeus according to the invention are useful for reducing and / or preventing and / or delaying the natural whitening of keratin fibers occurring physiologically during aging, more particularly in humans. The human keratinous fibers to which the invention applies are in particular the hair, the eyebrows, the eyelashes, the beard hair, the mustache hair and the pubic hair. More specifically, the invention is applicable to human hair and / or eyelashes. The subject of the invention is also a plant of the species Rubus idaeus or one of its extracts for use in preventing and / or treating canities.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for reducing and / or preventing the bleaching of keratinous fibers (hair or eyelashes in particular), by topical application of at least one plant of the species Rubus idaeus or one of its extracts or a composition containing them on keratinous fibers and / or their support, in particular on the hair and / or the scalp. The method according to the invention can thus be intended to reduce and / or delay and / or prevent the whitening of hair and / or hair and / or promote their natural repigmentation and is characterized by the fact that it is applied topically to the skin and / or its appendices at least one extract of Rubus idaeus or a composition containing it. The method comprises in particular the steps of applying to the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp, a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of at least one plant of the species Rubus idaeus or one of its extracts, to leave that in contact with the keratin fibers and / or the scalp, and possibly rinsing the fibers and / or the scalp. The method thus allows the maintenance of a coloration and a natural pigmentation of the human hair, in particular in subjects of more than 35 years, even of more than 45 years. According to a particular embodiment of the method according to the invention, the subject is additionally applied to at least one additional agent promoting the natural repigmentation of the hair or reducing their whitening.

The compositions that are suitable for the implementation of the invention may also contain at least one other agent that is beneficial to the hair, in particular a agent that promotes hair pigmentation or an agent that promotes hair regrowth or reduces hair loss. improving the quality of the hair fiber such as a hair loss reducing agent or reinforcing the capillary diameter, or an anti-dandruff agent or combating the desquamative conditions of the hair. Among the additional agents suitable for the implementation of the invention include by way of example - agents modulating the differentiation and / or proliferation and / or pigmentation of skin cells such as retinol and its esters vitamin D and its derivatives, modulators of cAMP such as POMC derivatives, adenosine, or forskolin and its derivatives, prostaglandins and their derivatives; extracts of microorganisms; anti-free radical agents such as α-tocopherol or its esters, superoxide dismutases or its mimetics, certain metal chelators or ascorbic acid and its esters; anti-seborrheic agents such as certain sulfur amino acids, 13-cis retinoic acid, cyproterone acetate; other desquamating agents of the scalp such as selenium disulphide, climbazole, undecylenic acid, ketoconazole, piroctone olamine (octopirox) or ciclopirocton (ciclopirox). In particular, it may be active stimulating regrowth and / or promoting the slowing down of hair loss, it may more particularly be mentioned without limitation: - nicotinic acid esters, including in particular tocopherol nicotinate benzyl nicotinate and C1-C6 alkyl nicotinates such as methyl or hexyl nicotinates; pyrimidine derivatives, such as 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine 3-oxide or "Minoxidil" described in US Pat. Nos. 4,139,619 and 4,596,812; Aminexil or 2,4 diamino pyrimidine 3 oxide described in WO96 / 09048; the lipoxygenase or cyclooxidase inducing agents promoting hair regrowth, such as those described by the Applicant in the European patent application EP 0 648 488; calcium antagonists, such as Cinnarizine, Nimodipine and Nifedipine; ATP-dependent potassium channel agonists such as cromakalim and nicorandil; plant extracts with pro-pigmenting activity such as chrysanthemum extracts as described in FR 2768343 and extracts of Sanguisorba described in FR 2782920.

The invention thus relates to a cosmetic treatment method as defined above, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one other agent that promotes the pigmentation of the hair or promotes the regrowth of the hair.

Additional active agents present in the compositions according to the invention may especially be chosen from the group comprising at least one extract of a plant selected from pomegranate (Punica granatum), blackberry, strawberry, grape, nut, and Terminalia (in particular Belerica, Chebula and Arjuna), Caesalpinia spinosa, Cypress, Burnet, Sanguisorba officinalis or chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium) or an agent selected from tyrosine, L-DOPA, pro-opiomelanocortin derivatives, adenosine, or forskolin or its derivatives .

According to another embodiment of the method according to the invention, at least one Rubus idaeus plant, one of its extracts or a composition containing them, and at least one additional agent beneficial to the hair, are applied to the hair and / or the scalp. hair as defined above, including promoting the natural repigmentation of hair or decreasing their whitening, is administered orally. Such orally absorbed assets may in particular be selected from taurine; grape seed extracts; green tea extracts; trace elements such as Zinc and selenium; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin E and vitamin C; cathechines such as epicatechin, gallocatechine, epigallocatechine or epigallocatechin gallate; pine phytosterols.

The application of the plant Rubus idaeus, its extracts and / or compositions containing them may be daily or bi-daily or weekly or bi-weekly. It can be repeated for several weeks or months, depending on the desired effect.

The invention also relates to a combination product for simultaneous, separate or sequenced use in that it comprises at least (i) a component comprising a plant of the species Rubus idaeus and / or an extract of a plant of the species Rubus idaeus (ii) a second component comprising an additional active agent promoting the natural pigmentation of the hair or reducing their whitening, selected from extracts of a plant selected from Fragaria (strawberry), blackberry, pomegranate, grape, Nuts, Terminalia (especially Belerica, Chebula and Arjuna) and Caesalpinia spinosa.

Other features and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the examples which follow.

Example I Measurement of Melanocyte Activity of Human Hair Follicles

The activity of melanocytes in human hair follicles is measured by the method described in the publication of Michelet et al. (Exp Dermatol 2008 Oct 22). Briefly, the steps of carrying out the test were as follows: the human hair follicles are microdissected and placed in culture in vitro in the William's E culture medium (Gibco-BRL) supplemented in particular with glutamine, insulin, hydrocortisone and antibiotics.

The culture medium contains 2-Thiouracil [14C] at a concentration of 3 pCi / ml.

For the "test" hair follicle group (25 follicles), the culture medium is supplemented with Rubus Idaeus extract. For the "control" group (25 follicles), the culture medium is supplemented with the vehicle (in the same quantity as for the "test" group).

After 5 days, the hair follicles are washed with medium without 2-Thiouracil [14C]; then lysed by immersion in a solution of Soluene 350 heated to 50 ° C. A scintillating liquid is then added. The amount of 2-Thiouracil [1401 present in the lysates is measured using the TRI LUX 1450 Micro-Beta apparatus.

Rubus Idaeus extract increases the incorporation of 2-thiouracil [1401 in hair follicles.

Example II: Correction of bio markers of canities of human hair follicles:

In the hair follicle of white hair, some mRNAs are over-represented (over-expressed genes) and others are underrepresented (under-expressed genes). These genes are bio markers of canities and their expression changes are associated with the development of canities.

The level of expression of these bio markers of canities is analyzed by the standard technique of quantitative RT-PCR (Q-RT-PCR) in human hair follicles.

To carry out the test, the human hair follicles of white hair are microdissected and placed in culture in vitro in the William's E culture medium (Gibco-BRL) supplemented in particular with glutamine, insulin, hydrocortisone and antibiotics. For the group of hair follicles "test" (30 follicles), the culture medium is supplemented with Rubus Idaeus extract. For the "control" group (30 follicles), the culture medium is supplemented with the vehicle (in the same quantity as for the "test" group). After the time necessary for the revelation of the activity of the extract, generally from 24h to 5 days, the mRNAs of the hair follicles are extracted. MRNAs of the same experimental condition are grouped together. The level of expression of the mRNAs of interest is determined by a conventional method of Q-RT-PCR, for example using the QuantiTect kit SYBR Green RT-PCR reference 204243 from Qiagen, the measurement that can be carried out on the MyIQ device from BIORAD.

The extract of Rubus Idaeus corrects the expression changes of some bio markers of canities in the hair follicles of white hair. Example III: compositions for topical application

- Hair lotion 25 Rubus Idaeus extract 5g Propylene glycol 20 g Ethanol 95 ° 30 g Water qs 100 g

This lotion is applied daily to the areas to be treated and preferably to the entire scalp for at least 10 days and preferably 1 to 2 months.

- shampooinq treating Rubus Idaeus extract 35 Polyglyceryl 3-hydroxylarylether 5g 26 g Hydroxy propyl cellulose sold under the name Klucell G by the company Hercules 2g Preservatives qs Ethanol 95 ° Water qs

This shampoo is used with each wash with a laying time of about one minute. The use will be prolonged, of the order of two months, in view of the slowing down of canities and the progressive repigmentation of gray hair.

This shampoo can also be used as a preventive measure to delay the whitening of hair. - Gel treating Rubus Idaeus extract 1.5 g Eucalyptus essential oils 1 g Econozole 0.2 g Lauryl polyglyceryl 6 cetearyl glycoether 1.9 g Preservatives qs 0.3 g Carbopol 934P sold by BF Goodrich Corporation This gel is applied on the areas to be treated twice a day (morning and evening) with a massage terminal. 50 g 100 g Neutralization agent qs pH 7 Water qs 100 g 25

Claims (11)

Claims1- Cosmetic use of at least one plant of the species Rubus idaeus, and / or of one of its extracts as an agent for reducing or preventing the whitening of the hair and / or the hair, said plant or its extracts being applied topically on the skin or its appendages. 2- The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the Rubus idaeus extract is chosen from leaf extracts and fruit extracts. 3- Use according to at least one of claims 1 or 2 characterized in that the extract is selected from aqueous extracts, hydro-alcoholic or alcoholic Rubus idaeus. 4- Use according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plant and / or its extracts are present in a composition suitable for external topical application at a concentration of between 0.01 and 50% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. 5- Use of a composition containing at least one fraction or an extract of Rubus idaeus as defined in one of claims 2 to 4, for reducing and / or preventing the whitening of the hair, by topical application of said composition on the hair and / or scalp. 6- Extract of at least one plant of the species Rubus idaeus for use in preventing and / or treating canities. 7- A cosmetic treatment method for reducing and / or delaying the whitening of hair and / or hair and / or promoting their natural repigmentation, characterized in that at least one extract from the skin and / or its appendages is applied topically to the skin and / or its appendages Rubus idaeus or a composition containing it. 8- Cosmetic treatment process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one other agent promoting hair pigmentation or promoting hair regrowth, or fight desquamative states, or improving the quality of the hair. hair fiber, or strengthening the hair diameter. 9- Method according to one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that the composition contains at least one extract of a plant selected from pomegranate (Punica granatum), blackberry, strawberry, grape, nut, Terminalia (in particular Belerica, Chebula and Arjuna), Caesalpinia spinosa, cypress, Burnet, Sanguisorba officinalis or chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium) or an agent selected from latyrosine, L-DOPA, pro-opiomelanocortin derivatives, adenosine, or forskolin or its derivatives . 10-cosmetic treatment method according to claim 7, characterized in that the subject additionally applies at least one additional agent promoting the natural repigmentation of the hair or reducing their whitening. 11-cosmetic treatment process according to claim 10, characterized in that at least one hair-benefiting agent chosen from agents which promote the natural repigmentation of the hair or diminish their whitening or fight desquamative conditions, or improve the quality of the hair. the hair fiber, or strengthening the hair diameter is administered orally.