FR2942399A1 - Removing makeup partially from masked human keratin materials, comprises subjecting the area to radiation to reveal optional traces of heat stable photorevelation composition non-activated by photo makeup and removing photo makeup - Google Patents

Abstract

Removing makeup at least partially from masked human keratin materials using a heat stable photorevelation composition present on an area of the keratin materials, comprises prior to cleansing the keratin materials, subjecting the area to a radiation to reveal optional traces of heat stable photorevelation composition non-activated by photo makeup and removing or eliminating photo makeup at least partially. An independent claim is included for a device comprising: a light source (710) emitting at least at the gamma wavelength, allowing to reveal traces of photorevelation agent still present on the keratin materials; and a system for eliminating traces of photochromic agent.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic treatments for the skin and other human keratin materials, in particular the lips or superficial body growths. for example hair or nails. The invention relates more particularly to the removal of make-up of keratin materials made up of a thermally stable photochromic composition. Background Makeup is usually achieved by the use of colored matter that is deposited on the body or face.

The final result depends not only on the quality of the products used. in particular ingredients and formulation techniques used, but also the dexterity of the user. It has been discovered that it is possible to obtain satisfactory makeup results thanks to the light-sensitive makeup. The accuracy of rendering exceeds what users usually get with conventional makeup, without the need for special dexterity or training. In addition, the light-sensitive makeup can make it possible to obtain color results that go beyond the classic meaning of make-up. This can be any pattern mimicking a conventional makeup pattern or text, logo, ...

The light-sensitive makeup is based on the use of at least one thermally stable photochromic composition capable of being revealed by light radiation. for example UV radiation, and maintain a change in appearance related to irradiation for at least one hour. In order to carry out the light-sensitive makeup, at least one thermally stable photochromic composition is deposited on the zone to be treated in the form of at least one layer. At the moment when the thermally stable photochromic composition is applied, it is in the undisclosed state and can be colored or colorless, depending on the ingredients used.

Irradiation of the thermally stable photochromic composition layer can be carried out selectively by irradiating it in a non-uniform manner. Thus, some regions may not be revealed and others are and / or regions are revealed to varying degrees, leading to different color intensities. The light energy used remains relatively low, and does not lead to tanning of the skin.

A light-sensitive makeup process is described in patent EP 938 887 which uses thermally stable photochromic agents which are applied to the skin. This patent describes a photochromic agent chosen from diarylethenes and fulgides. During removal, the user can leave traces of thermally stable photochromic composition not revealed. However, these traces may be brought to reveal later, for example after a few hours spent in the ambient light. At this time, it may be difficult for the user to carry out a makeup removal supplement. SUMMARY According to one of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a process for removing make-up from human keratin materials, aimed at eliminating and / or eliminating a thermally stable photochromic composition present on an area of said keratin materials, a process in which previously during the cleaning of the keratin materials, during or after the latter, the area is subjected to a developer capable of revealing any traces of thermally stable photochromic composition not activated by the light-sensitive makeup, with a view to erasing them and / or or eliminate them at least partially. The invention makes it possible to visually or automatically detect unrevealed areas, which makes it easier to eliminate and / or erase. To eliminate it is necessary to understand the physical removal. To make disappear it is necessary to understand to bring in a colorless or colored but not discernable state to the garlic of the bottom bearing the trace of composition. Makeup removal may be physiochemical or physical, and may include the step of eroding the thermally stable photochromic composition through a solvent or surfactant solution and / or by a mechanical or thermal route. The developer may be a light capable of exciting at least one photochromic agent of the thermally stable photochromic composition. These traces may be mechanically removed, in particular by friction. It is also possible to apply a cleansing composition to said traces to eliminate them. In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the removal is performed by a device moved over the skin, having a light source capable of revealing the thermally stable photochromic composition and an elimination system configured to remove the photochromic composition thermally stable. The disposal system may comprise a rotatable member rotating in contact with the skin, for example a rotational member whose rotation can be selectively braked to frictionally remove the thermally stable photochromic composition. The removal system may also include an organ selectively in contact with the keratin materials to remove traces. The rotary member may be impregnated, if necessary, with a cleansing composition and / or may be subjected to vibration or rotation on itself. The removal can be carried out automatically following the detection of traces of thermally stable photochromic composition disclosed. The device may comprise for this purpose an optical sensor and a computer for controlling the cleaning system according to a signal from the sensor. The thermally stable photochromic composition can be detectable under UV illumination (280 to 400 nm) and / or near UV (400 to 440 nm) and the elimination system can comprise, in the case of photochromic agent (s) ) a UV and / or near UV illuminant, for example an illuminant formed by one or more LEDs. The invention also relates to a makeup removing aid device made with a thermally stable photochromic composition comprising a photochromic agent which can be exposed by irradiation at least one wavelength, comprising: a light source emitting at least at the wavelength to reveal traces of photochromic agent still present on the keratin materials, - a system for removing said traces of photochromic agent. configured to remove said traces. The elimination system can be arranged to selectively rub on the keratin materials to remove said traces.

The disposal system may include an optical sensor for detecting said traces and the disposal system may be automatically controlled based on this detection. The disposal system may include a rotary member in contact with the skin and whose rotation may be selectively retarded to frictionally remove the thermally stable photochromic composition. The elimination system may include an organ selectively in contact with the skin. The wavelength X may belong to the UV and / or near UV spectrum. especially in the range from 320 to 400 nm.

Thermally stable photochromic composition According to the invention, the light-sensitive makeup is produced by means of a thermally stable photochromic composition that is suitable. The thermally stable photochromic composition according to the invention contains one or more thermally stable photochromic agents suitable for the production of a light-sensitive makeup, that is to say that they change their appearance under the effect of a light radiation. The thermally stable photochromic agent (s) used in the invention may be thermally stable photochromic agents or irreversible photochromic agents, that is, once the change in appearance is obtained, it remains permanent. According to the one or more thermally stable photochromic agents used, the light-sensitive makeup can be carried out by progressively revealing this or these thermally stable photochromic agents by exposure to a suitable radiation, for example UV and / or near UV radiation, or starting from a photochromic composition. thermally stable compounds having one or more thermally stable photochromic agents in the already disclosed state that it is brought into an undisclosed state by applying a suitable radiation, for example visible off-near UV. The light-sensitive makeup may use, for example successively or alternatively, a revelation of one or more thermally stable photochromic agents and an erasure of one or more thermally stable photochromic agents, so as to obtain precisely the desired makeup result. .

The thermally stable photochromic composition can be contained. with the thermally stable photochromic agent (s) in the non-disclosed state, in a conditioning device, before application to the keratin materials. In that case. the thermally stable photochromic composition can be applied to the keratin materials with the thermally stable photochromic agent (s) in the undisclosed state. then the radiation allowing to pass this or these photochromic agents in the revealed state is applied. Alternatively, the thermally stable photochromic composition is applied to the keratin materials with the thermally stable photochromic agent (s) in the undisclosed state, and then these are brought into a revealed state. and radiation is then selectively applied to pass the thermally stable photochromic agent (s), e.g., in a localized manner, to the undisclosed state. so as to create one or more patterns for example and / or obtain the desired color. In another variant, the thermally stable photochromic composition is contained in the conditioning device with thermally stable photochromic agents in the exposed state. The thermally stable photochromic composition is then applied with the thermally stable photochromic agent (s) in the disclosed state, and these are brought into a selectively undisclosed state. so as to form one or more patterns and / or obtain the desired color.

When it is sought to use a thermally stable photochromic composition whose thermally stable photochromic agent (s) are in the already-revealed state when the composition is applied to keratinous materials, it is possible to use a conditioning device comprising a light source enabling to expose the thermally stable photochromic composition, for example within the enclosure of the vessel containing it or at a dispensing orifice or an application member, to a light radiation of wavelength adapted to reveal the thermally stable photochromic agent (s). The thermally stable photochromic composition may comprise a thermally stable photochromic agent which makes it possible, for example, to generate a color in the revealed state, for example a colorless state in the unexposed state, or a mixture of thermally stable photochromic agents producing, in the state, revealed respective different colors having, in the undisclosed state, another color or being colorless.

For example, it is possible to use a thermally stable photochromic composition comprising a mixture of thermally stable photochromic agents respectively yellow, blue and magenta. with for example a larger proportion of thermally stable photochromic agent whose color is yellow in the revealed state. the proportions being for example chosen to obtain, when all the thermally stable photochromic agents are in the revealed state, a hue close to that of the skin. In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, a mixture of thermally stable and yellow stable photochromic agents is thus used. magenta and blue, in relative proportions of 50%, 35% and 15% approximately.

When the thermally stable photochromic composition comprises a plurality of thermally stable photochromic agents, thermally stable photochromic agents can be used which are detectable by exposure to different respective dominant wavelengths of radiation, so that by selecting the length of radiation wave to which the thermally stable photochromic composition is exposed, we can reveal rather one color than another. It is also possible to use thermally stable photochromic agents in a thermally stable photochromic composition which are erasable when exposed to respective dominant wavelengths, thereby making it possible to choose the characteristics of the light used to erase the thermally photochromic composition. stable. to selectively erase one color rather than another. Measurement of the thermal stability of a thermally stable photochromic moiety The test for determining whether a photochromic agent is thermally stable is as follows. The agent to be tested, initially of color E, is subjected; in the undisclosed state, irradiation with UV radiation for 1 minute at 1J / cm`, then its final color Ef is determined using a spectrocolorimeter, for example the brand MINOLTA CM 2002 (d / 8, SCI, D65, 2 ° observer); we obtain a difference of color AE; .f = ./(a, ûa,) 2 + (br ûb,): + L, ûL,) 2 in the space CIE Lab, which corresponds to the maximum of revelation. This compound is then left in complete darkness for 60 minutes at 25 ° C., and its Er color is determined again according to the above method. When the new value of AE; _r is at least equal to 50% of the value of AE; f corresponding to the maximum of revelation, it is considered that the compound is thermally stable. Preferably, the thermally stable photochromic agent is chosen so that once revealed, the makeup obtained can be kept visually for more than one hour. better than four hours. The thermally stable photochromic composition may be free of thermally reversible photochromic compounds such as doped titanium oxide. spiropyrans, spirooxazines or chromenes, unless certain forms of these compounds fall within the definition of thermally stable photochromic agents. The thermally stable photochromic photochromic agent (s) according to the invention are advantageously such that, under a first irradiation, these agents or agents are revealed by dyeing, starting from a substantially colorless or slightly colored state, and under a second, different, irradiation h. the first, this or these agents become substantially colorless or slightly colored. Irradiation In exemplary embodiments of the invention, UV irradiation (290 nm to 400 nm), in particular UVA (320 to 400 nm) and / or UVB, is carried out. better in the near UV (400 to 440 nm), while the irradiation 12 is a radiation in the visible, for example white light. Thermally stable photochromic agents Among the photochromic agents that can be used, the compounds belonging to the family of diarylethenes and those belonging to the family of fulgids are preferred. this list is not however limiting. Those skilled in the art can refer to patent EP 938 887 which describes examples of thermally stable photochromic agents. The diarylethenes can be represented by the following formula (I): A B in which the radicals R 1 and R 2 are always in "cis" relation with respect to the double bond.

These radicals R1 and R2 may be, independently of one another, selected from C1-C16 alkyl radicals, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated, or nitriles. Compounds of the following formula can especially be mentioned: CN CN They can also form a ring with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. in particular according to the following formula: CF CFz ZCF2) AB or form a ring with 5 anhydride carbon atoms, and in particular according to the following formula: ## STR2 ## where X may be an oxygen atom or an -NR 3 radical, with R representing a C2-C16 alkyl and / or hydroxyalkyl radical. The radicals A and B may be equal or different and may in particular represent a 5-atom ring or a 5 and 6-membered bicycle, according to the following structures: R12 R12

wherein: X and Y may be the same or different, and may represent an oxygen atom. sulfur, an oxidized form of sulfur, nitrogen or selenium, - Z and W may be equal or different, and may represent a carbon or nitrogen atom, - the radicals R3 to R12 may be equal or and may be hydrogen, linear or branched C 1 -C 16 alkyl or alkoxy. a halogen, a linear or branched C1-C4 fluorinated or perfluorinated group, a carboxylic group, a C 1 -C 16 alkylcarboxylic group, a C 1 -C 16 mono- or dialkylamino group, a nitrile group; a phenyl, naphthalene group or a heterocycle (pyridine, quinoline, thiophene) may be substituted on these radicals. However, groups A and B should not both be equal to an indole-type structure as follows: 510 R12

Groups A and B can be separated from the ring by one or two double bonds.

There must always be on the ortho positions of the junction, between the double bond and the radicals A and B, a group other than hydrogen, for example CH3, CN or CO2Et. that is, the groups R3 or R5, R4, R7 and R8 must be different from the hydrogen meaning.

By way of example, mention may be made of the following compound which can pass from colorless to red in the following manner, after irradiation at 404-436 nmr (return at 546-578 nm):

An example of diarylethene is the one, of blue color in the state disclosed, marketed under the commercial reference: DAE-MP by the company Yamada Chemical (Japan), chemical name and formula: 1. 2bis ( 2-methyl-5-phenyl-3-thienyl) -3,3,4,4,5,5-hexafluorocyclopentene Another example of diarylethene is that of yellow color in the disclosed state. of the formula marketed under the trade reference: DAE-2BT by YAMADA CHEMICALS (Japan) and chemical name: 1,2-Bis (3-methylbenzo (b) thiphen-2-yl) perfluorocyclopentene. The fulgids can be represented by the following formula: in which. group A has the same meaning as above. 15. groups R13 to R1; may be the same or different, and may be a linear or branched C1-C16 alkyl group, or the groups R13 and R14 may form a ring of 3 to 12 carbon atoms such as cyclopropane or adamantylene. Other thermally stable photochromic agents These photochromic compounds are changing-aspect compounds, for example from a colorless or colorless form to a color form, by a mechanism controlled by light irradiation. The mechanism can be direct, in the sense that the light makes change of appearance, for example passed from the colorless form to the colored form. This is for example the case of compounds carrying a function called photodegradable or photodetachable (in English photorelease). Preferably, compounds whose photodegradable or photodetachable function is inert with respect to keratin materials are used. Preferably. a compound whose photodegradable or photodetachable function is immobilized or carried by a polymer or other solid or mass structure. For example, the 3-5dimethoxybenzoyl function and the colored products as described in the article can be used: McCoy P, et al., J. Am. Chem. Soc., 2007, 129, 9572 The aforementioned mechanism can also be indirect, in the sense that the light passes the compound, for example initially colorless, in another form, then a third action transforms this compound thus colorless modified in a form of different appearance. for example colored. The mechanism is also indirect when a third action acts differently on the non-light-modified compound and on the modified compound, and that for example the unmodified compound is transformed and changes its appearance, for example becomes colored, while the Modified compound retains its appearance, by colorless couple. For example, it is possible to use the principle of diazotype, which involves a diazonium salt compound and another aromatic compound, capable of reacting by coupling reaction. Irradiation destroys the diazonium salt (nitrogen release). The diazonium compound that has not been irradiated then reacts with a simple jump of pH (in the presence of ammonia for example) with the coupler to give an azo compound. In this case, non-colored diazonium salt compounds will be chosen, such as, for example, an aromatic bearing the diazonium function but not relating to the amine or hydroxyl functional cycle. A single aromatic amine can be used as a coupler such as an aniline or phenol derivative.

It is then the non-irradiated parts that are revealed, according to the reaction: + ù ~~ RI + 1 / 2H2 RI OH or NRR 'OH or NRR'30 The photochromic agent or agents used can become thermally stable as soon as they are revealed or only after that a specific action has been taken. for example the bringing into contact with chemical compounds conferring the desired thermal stability.

The thermally stable photochromic composition can contain, by weight, a total of 0.001 to 20% of photochromic agent (s). in particular thermally stable photochromic agent (s). The thermally stable photochromic composition may additionally contain any solvent suitable for application in cosmetics, and especially chosen from those mentioned in patent EP 938 887. The composition may comprise the ingredients listed in paragraphs [0029] to [0041] of EP 0 938 887 A1, the list of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Thermally stable photochromic composition with reduced sensitivity The thermally stable photochromic composition can include at least one optical agent reducing its sensitivity to UV or near UV radiation. The thermally stable photochromic composition may in particular comprise one or more optical agents in an amount sufficient for its filtering power F, as defined below, to be greater than or equal to 2, or even 5, 10, 15 or 20. Filtering ability A protocol similar to that used to determine the SPF is used, with the difference that the erythema response of the skin is not taken into account. The composition whose filtering power is sought at a rate of 1.2 mg / cm 2 is applied to a PMMA (without UV filter) sandblasted plate 5 cm by 5 cm, 3 mm thick, with a roughness of 4.5 μm, from EUROPLAST. The plates are pre-treated with a deposit of 10 + 1 mg of Vaseline 145B. The composition can be deposited in 14 product pads and the spreading takes place for 20 s on the finger by zigzagging by turning the plate a quarter turn every 5 sec. After plating, there remains 0.6 mg / cm 2 of product. 20 mm is expected for drying and then a new spreading is performed.

A spectroradiometer (for example integrating sphere Labsphere UV transmittance analyzer mark) is used, which measures the diffuse transmittance of 290mm to 400mm. . Each transmission value T (2) is recorded. T (2) is the ratio, for a given wavelength irradiation X, of the light energy transmitted on the incident light energy. It is measured 5 times per plate (by moving the plates) and the average thereof is 5 measures. We do the operation on 5 plates. The averages of the averages are measured.

The filtering power F with respect to solar UV radiation (290 to 400 nm) is given by the ratio of the following two integrals: ## EQU1 ## ) d /, where I () \,) is a function representing the occurrence of each wavelength of the solar spectrum. I (X) is the same as that used for the calculation of SPF in vitro in the publication COLIPA GUIDELINES Edition of 2007 A METHOD FOR THE IN VITRO DETERMINATION OF UVA PROTECTION PROVIDED BY SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS. If F = 1, then the composition is not filtering. By shielding the radiation of wavelength X, it should be understood that the optical agent attenuates by at least one attenuation factor of 2 the radiation of wavelength λ ,, the measurement being carried out by means of an apparatus capable of measuring the absorption spectrum by restricting irradiation light to a wavelength region, + 10 nm. The ratio F TO -10 + 10 + Io I (.i) d / 1 10I (2) T (2) d / 1 with I (.1) and T (2) as defined above, gives the factor attenuation at the wavelength X.

The thermally stable photochromic composition can have at least one wavelength range P in a range X1 to x2 where the irradiation is less filtered, the filtering power in this range being on average Fx1) .2 with F / F; 1.7? > 2, preferably F / F, .i., 2> 5. The width of the range P may be less than 80 nm. and preferably at 40 nm.

F? A3.2 is defined by:? 2I (2) dil I (2) T (2)? And measured as described above, substituting terminals 290 and 400 for? 1 and with? K2> XI. The thermally stable photochromic composition may comprise, where appropriate, an evolutionary dye, for example a dye whose color is revealed over time and if possible slowly, for example DHA or polyphenols, capable of coloring progressively with the air. The thermally stable photochromic composition comprises, for example, a dye which takes longer than 1/2 h to be 90%. The interest of such a dye may be to develop a filtering power once the light-sensitive makeup done. for example to delay the degradation of the light-sensitive makeup patterns under the effect of ambient lighting. Second layer acting as an activator of an optical agent present in the first layer In an exemplary implementation of the invention, a first layer is constituted by the thermally stable photochromic composition and contains an optical agent in a form partially or totally disabled or in the precursor state. This deactivated or precursor form agent does not yet have sufficient activity to protect the light-sensitive makeup result. The application of a second layer makes it possible, after the light-sensitive makeup, to activate the deactivated optical agent or to bring the precursor in its effective optical form to form a screen for the revealing radiation of the thermally stable photochromic composition. For example, the optical agent may, in a precursor form in one of the layers, be a dye of the class of porphyrins, made more active by the presence in the other layer of a salt in solution, for example a zinc, iron or magnesium salt.

Galenic Forms The thermally stable photochromic composition can occur according to the applications and the nature of its constituents in various galenic forms. The thermally stable photochromic composition according to the invention contains an acceptable cosmetic medium. that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin. nails, hair, eyelashes and eyebrows, mucous membranes and semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face. Said medium may comprise or be in the form of, in particular, a suspension. a dispersion, a solution in a solvent or hydroalcoholic medium, optionally thickened or even gelled; an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple emulsion; a gel or a mousse; an emulsified gel; a spray; a loose powder, compact or cast; an anhydrous paste; a movie. among others. Optical agents Optical agents shielding the radiation for revelation. especially UV or near UV. The above optical agent (s) may be chosen from filters and scattering particles or other agents which limit the transmission of UV, in particular UVA and / or UVB. This or these optical agents may be chosen from inorganic filters. especially in particulate form and nanoscale, and organic filters. The optical agent (s) may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. The organic filters may be selected from anthranilate derivatives. cinnamic. salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, benzotriazole, benzalmalonate derivatives, imidazolines. bisbenzoazolyls. benzoxazole derivatives, triazine derivatives. benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, beta derivatives. diphenylacrylate beta, p-aminobenzoic derivatives, filter and silicone filter polymers described in WO 93/04665, dimers derived from alpha alkylstyrene, 4,4-diarylbutadiene and mixtures thereof. The hydrophilic filters may be chosen from those described in application EP A 678 292, for example 3-benzylidene 2-camphor, in particular Mexoryl SX%. Among the lipophilic filters, mention may be made of the dibenzoylmethane derivatives described in publications FR 2 326 405, FR 2 440 933, EP 0 114 607, Parsol 1789 from Givaudan and Eusolex from Merck. Mention may also be made of 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-b, biphenylacrylate, called octocrylene, which is available under the trade name Uvinul N 539 from BASF, and p-methylbenzylidenecamphor, sold under the name of trade name of Eusolex EX 6300 from Merck.

It is also possible to use as optical active agent a filter selected from benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone), benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone), benzophenone-8 (dioxybenzone), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT or Tinosorb S). Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul +). Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Methyl Anthranilate (Meradimate). (4-) methyl-benzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000), Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M), para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), polysilicone 15 (Parsol SLX), triethanolamine salicylate.

It is also possible to use as optical agent diffusing particles such as nanopigments of titanium or zinc oxide, which can be used as a filter, with various surface treatments depending on the medium chosen. Nanopigments typically have an average size of 5 to 1000 nm. The total mass concentration of such optical agent (s) can range from 0.001% to 30%. even more in the case of dry or almost dry formulas. relative to the weight of the photoprotective composition, before application. Preferably, within the composition, filters or combinations are used to shield the radiation in the range from 320 to 400 nm. and preferably from 320 to 420 nm.

Optical agents capable of reflecting incident light A metal mirror optical agent or an optical agent based on an interferential multilayer structure or a diffraction grating may be used as the optical agent. As optical agents usable alone or in addition to the optical agents enumerated above, it is possible to use optical agents capable of reflecting the incident light. The reflection occurs at the interface between the reflective layer and the propagation medium of the light wave. The material forming the reflective layer may have a refractive index greater than 1.5, possibly greater than 1.8. The optical agent may contain or be formed of a metal. For example, a silver layer is formed by applying the photoprotective composition through the reduction of a silver salt or by the application of a dispersion of silver nanoparticles.

The reflection rate may be greater than 5%, and if possible greater than 10%. For example, the photoprotective composition may comprise an aqueous dispersion. or ethanolic, silver nanoparticles, for example those of the company Nippon Paint which have a size ranging from 10 to 60 nm depending on the samples and are stabilized by a polymer system. This stabilization does not prevent, at the time of drying, the particles from coming into contact, and through these contacts, to ensure a sufficient conductivity to give the final material a reflective power close to that obtained with a mirror. 'money. An optical agent having an interferential multilayer structure may be used. This interferential structure can filter the light by a phenomenon of destructive interferences between the light waves reflected by the different layers of the structure. The multilayer structure is preferably chosen so as to have a high transmission factor in the visible, so as not to produce a visible color in the visible and to present the desired transparency. The multilayer structure may comprise alternating layers of low and high refractive indices. The difference in refractive index between the high and low index layers is, for example, greater than or equal to 0.1, better still 0.15, and even more preferably 0.6. The number of layers of the aforementioned alternation is for example at least 2, better 4 or 6, or even at least 12, which facilitates the production of a structure that is insensitive to the incidence of light and exhibits the selectivity required. The multilayer structure may optionally be symmetrical, and allow incident light filtration irrespective of the main light input face in the structure, if any. The high refractive index material may be inorganic, eg anatase or rutile titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium dioxide, zinc oxide, zinc sulfide, oxychloride bismuth, and mixtures thereof, or organic. being for example chosen from: PEEK (polyetheretherketone), polyamide. PVN (Poly (2-vinylnaphthalene)), PVK (Poly (N-vinyl carbazole)), PF (phenol formaldehyde resin), PSU (polysulfone resin), PaMes (poly (alpha-methylstyrene)). PVDC, (Poly (vinylidene chloride)), MeOS (Poly (4-methoxystyrene)). PS (polystyrene). BPA, (bisphenol-A polycarbonate), PC (polycarbonate resin), PVB (Poly (vinyl benozoate)), PET (poly (ethyleneterephthalate)), PDAP (poly (diallyl phthalate)). PPhMA (poly (phenyl methacrylate)), SAN (styrene / acrylonitrile copolymer). HDPE (polyethylene, high density), PVC (polyvinyl chloride), NYLON, POM (poly (oxymethylene) or polyformaldehyde), PMA (poly (methyl acrylate)), etc., and mixtures thereof.

The low refractive index material may be inorganic, being for example chosen from silicon dioxide, magnesium fluoride and aluminum oxide. and their mixtures, or organic. for example being selected from polymers such as polymethyl methacrylate or polystyrene, polyurethane, and mixtures thereof. To achieve the interference particles with multilayer structure, the man

In particular, one may be wary of the numerous publications dealing with thin film deposition, for example the article Overcoated Microspheres for Specific Optical Powers of the Applied Optics revenue, Vol. 41, No. 6 of 01/06/2002, here incorporated by reference, and to the patents of the company FLEXPRODUCTS. The optical agent may comprise a diffractive structure. and for example at least one diffraction grating, which may be a grating having a surface pattern repeating substantially so as to diffract the light. The period of the network and possibly the depth thereof determine among other things the diffraction properties of the network. The duty cycle of the diffraction grating may be chosen equal to unity.

Preferably. the period of the diffraction grating, in at least one direction, is advantageously small enough to reduce the risk of creating colored effects in the photoprotective composition. The period of the grating is thus advantageously chosen so as not to diffract the light in the visible range, in particular in the range from 400 nm to 780 nm.

The maximum period of the grating which makes it possible to avoid having diffraction orders in the visible can be determined at least approximately by the relation:, t, 2 u :: t '-' + - = Ii. Where 0 is the angle of incidence measured in relation to the normal to the plane of the grating. A. the period of the grating, m the diffraction order and n, and n2 the refractive indices of the incidence and transmission media, respectively. n, and n2 may be taken as 1.5 in the first approximation. For 0 = 0 °, the maximum period is? / N, = 400 / 1.5, ie approximately 267 nm. Without limitation on the angle of incidence, the period is half less. We will choose then. preferably, a lattice period of less than or equal to 270 nm, more preferably less than or equal to 140 nm. The depth d of the network and its period A can be selected by successive tests so as to obtain for example a minimal transmission in the UVA. The calculation of the network characteristics can be carried out by vector calculation using for example the GSOLVER software from GRATING SOLVER DEVELOPMENT COMPANY. The one or more layers used to make the diffraction grating (s) may optionally be deposited on a substrate of organic or inorganic nature, which may be used such that or subsequently undergo a dissolution treatment. Thus, the structure of the network or networks may be etched either in the mass of a material or after the deposition of a material on an organic or inorganic substrate of spherical or lamellar form. The etching can be carried out so that the diffraction of light in the visible part is minimal, to reduce the color effects. The periodicity of the etching and its thickness determine the effectiveness of the system to attenuate the UV radiation. The interference filtering agent may optionally comprise two diffraction gratings extending in non-parallel directions, for example two substantially perpendicular directions. this can in particular make it possible to increase the absorption in the UV of a circularly polarized incident light and to reduce the dependence of filtration performance on the angle of incidence. The two diffraction gratings may have substantially equal periods A and A2, in particular both of which are less than or equal to 270 nm, more preferably less than 140 nm.

The two diffraction gratings may also have substantially equal depths, when they have a relief on the surface and that this relief makes it possible to create the periodic index variation of the grating.

The period of the network can be constant or variable and the constant or variable depth. The network may extend in a rectilinear or curvilinear direction. The diffraction grating may comprise a superposition of layers having different refractive indices. The diffraction grating may be made at least partially in a dielectric material. The patterns of the network or networks may be various and for example present. in section, rectangular, triangular crenellations, sinusoidal undulations or stepped crenellations. The diffractive structure may be formed at least on a portion of a main face of the particle and preferably on both major faces of the particle. The diffracting structure may comprise a protective layer covering the network or networks and not diffracting. It is also possible to mention interferential effect pigments not fixed on a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), and interferential holographic flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Optical agents capable of transforming the wavelength of the incident light The optical agent may be a fluorescent compound. Fluorescent compound is understood to mean a compound which absorbs the light of the ultraviolet spectrum, and possibly of the visible spectrum, and which converts the energy absorbed into fluorescent light of longer wavelength, emitted in the ultraviolet or visible part of the spectrum. It can be optical brighteners, which can be transparent and colorless. 25 do not absorb in the visible light but only in the UV and transform the absorbed energy into fluorescent light of longer wavelength. for example longer than 20 nm, better 50 nm, or even 100 nm. emitted in the visible part of the spectrum; the color printing generated by these brighteners can then only be generated by the purely fluorescent light predominantly blue, with wavelengths ranging from 400 to 500 nm. These compounds may be in solution or particulate. The fluorescent compound may be a dicetopyrrolopyrrole of the formula: in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom; a C 6 -C 30 aryl group; a hydroxy group; a cyano group a nitro group; a sulfo group; an amino group; an acylamino group; a (C1-C6) dialkylamino group; a (C1-C6) dihydroxyalkylamino group; a (C1-C6) alkyl hydroxyalkyl (C1-C6) amino group; a (C1-C6) alkoxy group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkoxycarbonyl group; a C 1 -C 6 carboxyalkoxy group and a piperidinosulfonyl group; a pyrrolidino group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkyl halo (C 1 -C 6) alkylamino group a (C 1 -C 6) benzoylalkyl group; a vinyl group; a formyl group: a C 6 -C 30 aryl radical optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl and linear C 1 -C 6 alkoxy groups. branched or cyclic. linear, branched or cyclic alkyl comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms itself being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, amino, C 1 -C 6 alkoxy; a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, linear C 1 -C 6 alkoxy, branched or cyclic, optionally substituted aryl, carboxyl groups, sulfo, a halogen atom, which alkyl radical can be interrupted by a heteroatom; The fluorescent compound may be a naphthalimide of the formula: wherein R1, R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a C 6 -C 30 aryl group; a hydroxy group; a cyano group; a nitro group; a sulfo group; an amino group an acylamino group; a dialkyl (C 1 -C 6) amino group; a dihydroxyalkyl (C 1 -C 6) amino group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkyl hydroxy (C 1 -C 6) alkylamino group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkoxy group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkoxycarbonyl group; a C1-C6 carboxyalkoxy group; a piperidinosulfonyl group; a pyrrolidino group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkyl halo (C 1 -C 6) alkyl amino group; a benzoyl (C 1 -C 6) alkyl group; a vinyl group; a formyl group; a C 6 -C 30 aryl radical optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl groups. linear, branched or cyclic C1-C6 alkoxy, linear, branched or cyclic alkyl comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms itself being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, amino, C 1 -C 6 alkoxy; a linear alkyl radical. branched or cyclic, comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl groups. amino, linear, branched or cyclic C1-C6 alkoxy, optionally substituted aryl, carboxyl, sulfo, a halogen atom, which alkyl radical may be interrupted by a heteroatom; the substituents R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3 can form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an aromatic or non-aromatic C.sub.6-C.sub.30 or heterocyclic ring comprising in total from 5 to 30 members and from 1 to 5 heteroatoms, these rings being condensed or not , inserting or not a carbonyl group. and being substituted or unsubstituted by one or more groups selected from C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups. alkoxy (C 1 -C 4) alkyl (C 1 -C 4), amino, dialkyl (C 1 -C 4) amino, halogen. phenyl. carboxy. trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonioalkyl (C 1 -C 4); The fluorescent compound may be a stylbene derivative such as: wherein R is methyl or ethyl; R 'is methyl. X- anion of the chloride type. iodide, sulfate, methosulphate. acetate. perchlorate. By way of example of a compound of this type, mention may be made of Photosensitiving Dye NK-55725 marketed by UBICHEM. for which R represents an ethyl radical. R 'a methyl radical and X- an iodide. The fluorescent compound may be a methynic derivative such as: or an oxazine or thiazine derivative of general formula: mention may also be made of dicyanopyrazine derivatives (from the company Nippon Paint). Naphtholactam derivatives, azalactone derivatives, rhodamines, xanthene derivatives. It is also possible to use inorganic pigments (MgO, TiO2, znO, Ca (OH) 2) or organic particles (latex, etc.) containing such compounds in their core or on their surface. The fluorescent compound may also be a semiconductor compound which. for example in the form of small particles, called quantum dots, has a fluorescent effect. Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductor nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation, radiation having a wavelength of between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles can be manufactured according to the processes described for example in US Pat. Nos. 6,225,198 or 5,990,479, in the publications cited therein, as well as in the following publications: Dabboussi BO et al (CdSe) ZnS core- Quantum dots shell: synthesis and characterization of a large series of highly luminescent nanocrystallites. Journal of Phisical Chemistry, vol. 101, 1997, pp. 9463-9475. and Peng. Xiaogang et al., "Epitaxial Growth of Highly Luminescent CdSe / CdS core / nanocrystals shell with photostability and electronic accessibility" Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol 119. No. 30, pp 7019-7029.5 Preferred fluorescent compounds are those emitting the colors orange and yellow, for example. Preferably. the fluorescent compound (s) used as optical agents in the invention have a maximum reflectance in the wavelength range of 500 to 650 nm, and preferably in the wavelength range of 550 at 620 nanometers. Such fluorescent compounds are, for example, those belonging to the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins. xanthenodiquinolizines (especially sulforhodamines); azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methine type, alone or in mixtures. More particularly, mention may be made of: - Brilliant Yellow B6GL marketed by SANDOZ and of the following structure: - Basic Yellow 2, or Auramine O marketed by the companies PROLABO, 20 ALDRICH or CARLO ERBA and of following structure

The fluorescent compounds used may be aminophenyl ethenyl aryl, where aryl is pyridinium. substituted or not, or another cationic group such as substituted or unsubstituted imidizoliniums. For example. it is possible to use a fluorescent compound such as 2- [2- (4-dialkylamino) phenyl ethenyl] -1-alkylpyridinium, in which the alkyl radical of the pyridinium ring represents a methyl or ethyl radical, that of the benzene ring represents a methyl radical. . An optical agent can contain on the same molecule, several fluorescent groups. By way of example, they are dimers such as: where R 1, R 2, which are identical or different, represent - a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted with at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; an aryl or arylalkyl radical, the aryl group having 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; the aryl radical being optionally substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one a halogen atom. R1 and R2 may optionally be joined to form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom and comprise one or more other heteroatoms, the heterocycle being optionally substituted with at least one linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms and being optionally interrupted and / or substituted with at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; R1 or R2 may optionally be engaged in a heterocycle comprising the nitrogen atom and one of the carbon atoms of the phenyl group carrying said nitrogen atom; R3, R4, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom. an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms. R5. identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom; R6, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or a group bearing at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; X represents: a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms. or alkenyl comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted with at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted with at least one halogen atom; a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 ring members, optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by at least one heteroatom, by at least one linear or branched aminoalkyl radical, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one heteroatom; by at least one halogen atom; an aromatic or diaromatic radical condensed or not, separated or not by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical or radicals being optionally substituted with at least one halogen atom or with at least one alkyl radical containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or group bearing at least one heteroatom; - a dicarbonyl radical - the group X may carry one or more cationic charges - a being equal to 0 or 1; Y-, identical or not, represent an organic or mineral anion; n being an integer at least equal to 2 and at most equal to the number of cationic charges present in the fluorescent compound. Other dimers are possible, for example those where the point of attachment is made between the two non-cationic groups, or for example those where the pyridinium group is replaced by another arylcationic group such as imidazolinium. The family of dicyanopyrazines may also provide fluorescent compounds in oranges and of interest for the invention. Fluorescent pigments in oranges are also usable. For example. Sunbrite pigment-SG2515 Yellow orange from SunChemical. Treated areas All body parts usually made up can receive a light-sensitive makeup according to the invention, for example nails, eyelashes, hair. the skin. and in particular that of the face, for example the cheeks. forehead, eye area or lips, neck, bust or legs. You can also treat rarely made up body parts such as ears, hands or teeth. These areas have complex geometries, which does not facilitate the precise application of conventional makeup products. The light-sensitive makeup can make it possible to obtain aesthetic results, despite the complexity of the geometries. The light-sensitive makeup can be used to camouflage a skin defect. The light-sensitive makeup may optionally include a pattern of a garment or accessory worn by the user, for example a pattern on a jewel, a handbag, glasses, shoes, a piece of furniture, a PDA or a mobile phone. Where appropriate. the sale of such a garment or accessory may be accompanied by the provision of a file or an internet link making it possible to carry out a light-sensitive makeup in agreement with the accessory or the garment The file or the internet link may give access to the data necessary for the production of an image that has been designed or selected to marry harmoniously with the garment or accessory. For example, it takes all or part of the reasons or completes it.

Revelation The revelation used to detect any traces of photochromic agent to be removed is, for example, an illumination capable of revealing the photochromic agent (s) present in the thermally stable photochromic composition, especially an illumination of UV and / or near UV light, for example UVA and / or UVB. The revelation may also include, depending on the photochromic agents present, the application of heat, light radiation or a chemical active. Processes with revelation and physicochemical or physical removal makeup The revelation can be done before removing make-up or preferentially during or after make-up removal. It is possible to use a device which illuminates the area concerned with the light-sensitive makeup in the UV spectrum to reveal any zones carrying an undisclosed photochromic agent. Subsequently, the detection of the zones revealed during the use of the device and the removal of make-up may be left to the care of the user, who may use a conventional make-up removal product based on surfactants, or a particular makeup removal product adapted to compounds of the thermally stable photochromic composition. The method according to the invention can also be implemented by using a device which illuminates in the UV spectrum and / or near UV a skin zone to reveal possible areas carrying a non-revealed photochromic agent and performs a makeup removal in case of detection of colored areas by the revelation of the photochromic agent. If necessary, the device can be configured to apply a photoprotective composition to the treated area. comprising an optical agent as defined above. The device can be configured to scan the skin for colored areas revealed by UV and / or near UV illumination and alert the user if these colored areas are detected. Such a device may also be configured to make a makeup removal in case of detection of colored areas and optionally apply a photoprotective composition. In an exemplary implementation of the invention, a first makeup removal is carried out, the cleansing area is illuminated to reveal any regions carrying an undisclosed photochrome, and a second make-up removal is carried out at the level of the areas revealed and become colored.

When removing makeup. the skin can be rubbed, abraded by a composition containing an abrasive product, sanded the skin, aspirated or treated the skin with an illumination capable of degrading the photochromic agent (s), for example laser radiation in visible light. These physical makeup removal actions can be combined with the use of a makeup remover composition. The removal of make-up may be combined with the application of a photoprotective composition on the cleansed area or areas. Processes with Revelation and Incomplete Makeup Removal In exemplary embodiments of the invention, a revelation is performed and the revealed area is removed in an incomplete manner so as to keep a portion of the color revealed. Other Ingredients In addition to the ingredients already mentioned, each composition may contain ingredients allowing or assisting the spreading on the keratin materials. more particularly the skin, bringing comfort, for example an odor or a softness. assisting in the removal at the time of washing, for example one or more surfactants. limiting the penetration of ingredients into the skin, for example astringents. or bringing other cosmetic features, for example hydration. the color, gloss and / or limiting the impacts of UV filtration, for example a self-tanning or a vitamin D activator. Make-up Remover During the removal of make-up, the user can leave traces of thermally stable photochromic composition not revealed . However, these traces may be revealed later, for example after a few hours spent in the ambient light. At this time, it may be difficult for the user to carry out a makeup removal supplement. To remedy this problem, it may be advantageous to apply during or after makeup removal, at least one optical agent forming a screen at least one wavelength 2. used to reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition.

Such an optical agent can be reapplied several times in succession, if necessary. The optical agent may belong to a makeup remover composition.

By forming a screen at the wavelength λ, it should be understood that the optical agent attenuates the wavelength radiation by at least a factor of 2 - the measurement being carried out by means of a device able to measure the absorption spectrum by restricting the irradiation light to a wavelength region centered around λ. as detailed above. The application during and better after, the makeup removal of the optical agent prevents traces of photochromic agent to be revealed and reduces the risk of staining keratin materials or clothing. The keratin materials may not be washed within one hour after the application of the optical agent. When the user later carries out a washing, the traces of undecayed photochromic agent protected by the optical agent can be eliminated. Another advantage related to the application of the optical agent is that it is avoided. when a new light-sensitive makeup film is made, certain unrevealed parts of the previous light-sensitive makeup look-up are still present when exposed to the radiation used to make the new light-sensitive makeup. The optical agent can be applied after makeup removal. The optical agent can also be used in the formulation of a make-up remover composition used for makeup removal. The wavelength λ may belong to the UV or near-UV spectrum (290 nm to 400 nm), especially to the range from 320 nm to 440 nm. The makeup-removing composition may be a conventional make-up removing product based on surfactants, or a special make-up remover suitable for the compounds of the thermally stable photochromic composition, and may comprise a solvent, for example ethyl acetate or butyl acetate, acetone, ethanol and mixtures thereof, and more generally any solvent selected from cosmetically acceptable organic solvents (acceptable tolerance, toxicology and feel). These organic solvents may represent from 0% to 98% of the total weight of the composition. They may be selected from the group consisting of hydrophilic organic solvents. lipophilic organic solvents, amphiphilic solvents or mixtures thereof. Hydrophilic organic solvents include, for example, lower linear or branched monohydric alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol or butanol. isopropanol. isobutanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol. sorbitol; mono- or di-alkyl of isosorbide whose alkyl groups have from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; glycol ethers such as diethylene glycol mono-methyl or mono-ethyl ether and propylene glycol ethers such as dipropylene glycol methyl ether. Amphiphilic organic solvents that may be mentioned include polyols such as polypropylene glycol (PPG) derivatives such as polypropylene glycol and fatty acid esters. PPG and fatty alcohol such as PPG-23 oleyl ether and PPG-36 oleate. Examples of lipophilic organic solvents that may be mentioned include fatty esters such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate and alkyl benzoates. isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate. 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate. 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, glycerin triisostearate, diglycerin triisostearate. The makeup-removing composition may also comprise: an oil, for example in the form of a microemulsion, a pH agent if the compound (s) used to maintain the photochromic agent (s) on the skin are sensitive to pH, which is the case of carbopol by Example. or an ionic liquid. Among the anionic surfactants which may be used alone or as a mixture in the makeup-removing composition, mention may be made in particular of the alkaline salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts or the aminoalcohol salts of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates . alkyl ether sulfates. alkylamidesulfates and ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates. monoglycerides sulfates, alkylsulfonates. alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates. α-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulphosuccinamates. alkylsulfoacetates, alkylpolyglycerol carboxylates. Alkyl phosphates / alkyl ether phosphates, acylsarcosinates, alkylpolypeptidates. alcoylamidopolypeptidates. acylisethionates, alkylllaurates.

The alkyl or acyl radical in all these compounds generally refers to a chain of 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Mention may also be made of soaps and salts of fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic or stearic acids, coconut oil acids or hydrogenated coconut oil acids and especially amine salts such as stearates. amine; acyl lactylates, the acyl radical of which comprises 8-20 carbon atoms; carboxylic acids of polyglycol ethers having the formula: Alk- (OCH2-CH2) r, -OCH2-COOH in acid or salified form where the substituent Alk corresponds to a linear chain having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and wherein n is an integer between 5 and 15. Among the nonionic surfactants which can be used alone or in a mixture, there may be mentioned in particular: polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, alkyl phenols and fatty acids containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms; copolymers of oxides of ethylene and propylene, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides. polyethoxylated fatty amines, ethanolamides, glycol fatty acid esters. fatty acid esters of oxyethylenated or unsubstituted sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose. polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, phosphoric triesters, fatty acid esters of glucose derivatives; the alkylpolyglycosides and alkylamides of the amino sugars: the condensation products of an α-diol, a monoalcohol, an alkylphenol, an amide or a diglycolamide with glycidol or a glycidol precursor. The makeup removal composition that contains the optical agent can be formulated to allow the optical agent to be deposited at the time of rinsing, for example by coacervation effect. this effect can be obtained for example by using additional surfactants and ionicity polymers, for example PC / PA, TC / TA, TC / PA, TA / PC, optionally with amphoteric and nonionic surfactants to facilitate deposition. PCs are typically compounds such as cationic guar gums (Jaguar C13S for example) or artificial compounds, such as JR 400 or ionene. TCs are typically quaternary chain compounds (and especially trimethylammonium groups) and fatty chain (C6 to C30). PAs may be multianionic polymers such as acrylate or methacrylate polymers or copolymers or polymers with sulfonic groups. TAs are anionic surfactants such as carboxylic or sulfate or sulfonic surfactants (LES, LS). The makeup-removing composition may be applied using any suitable support, in particular capable of absorbing it, for example a fibrous cleansing disc, for example a woven or non-woven fabric, a felt, cotton wool, a flocked film, a sponge, a wipe. the support used for removing makeup is advantageously removed after the makeup operation. The make-up removing composition can be contained in a container and removed as and when each makeup removal. In a variant, the make-up removal composition impregnates the support used for removing make-up, the support being able to be in this case packaged for example in a sealed package. After the use of the make-up removing composition, the keratin materials may not be rinsed. In a variant. they can be. The rinsing can be carried out for example with running water, without adding a soap.

The invention will be better understood on reading the description which follows, examples of non-limiting implementation thereof. and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIG. 1 schematically represents an example of an optical make-up removal device; FIG. 2 represents another example of a makeup removal device produced in accordance with the invention; FIG. 3 is a longitudinal and partial section of the device of FIG. 2, FIG. 4 is a view similar to FIG. 3 of an alternative embodiment, FIG. 5 schematically represents another exemplary arrangement of a makeup removal device. According to the invention, FIG. 6 represents an example of a portable revelation device, and FIG. 7 represents an example of a device comprising an illuminator making it possible to reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition and an elimination system. FIG. 1 shows an optical makeup removal device comprising a handpiece 700 and a white light source 710. The latter is connected by an optical fiber 705 to the handpiece, the fiber being of an output diameter. 6mm for example. The source 710 is for example an illuminator of the company CHIU Technical corporation known under the reference model LUMINA F0-150-220 ... [The optical output of the handpiece can be equipped with a 720 lens to spread the beam, for example to create a flat or conical beam. The user positions the handpiece of the device of FIG. 1 on the areas that he wants to remove, by approaching it to treat a reduced area or by moving it away to treat a wider area, it being understood that the divergence of the beam allows to widen the illumination. The emitted light causes the colored areas to become colorless. The user visually assesses whether the makeup removal is effective before changing zone. A photoprotective composition can be applied to areas that have become colorless. The device shown in FIGS. 2 and 3 comprises a handle 740 and a source 750 emitting in the UV, provided with a plastic window capable of passing UV light, for example an undoped PMMA window, for example of rectangular shape, for example of dimensions 40 by 5mm. The source delivers for example 100 mW in UVA. The device delivers for example at the window 50 mW / cm`. The user can move the device of Figures 2 and 3 at a rate of 5cm per second, so that the skin then receives about 10mW / cm2, which allows to partially reveal any undisclosed parts. This partial disclosure is sufficient for the user to easily detect the presence of a zone carrying the thermally stable photochromic composition. The device is equipped with a cleaning member, for example a roller 760, which can be made of foam, and a user-actuable control button 770 for braking the rotation of the roller on its axis when operated by the user. In the interval between the light output and the roller, the user can see the state of his skin. If he thinks that the skin is staining, he can press the 770 button. The rotation of the roller 760 is blocked, which has the effect of rubbing the roller on the skin when moving and producing a cleansing effect stained areas. If he considers that the skin does not show staining. the user does not press the button. The rotation of the roller is left free. As a result, the movement does not cause friction and the roller does not cause makeup removal. In the variant illustrated in FIG. 4, the device comprises, in the interval between the light output 750 and the roller, an optical sensor 780, for example in the form of a CCD strip, and lighting based on white LEDs. The sensor 780 has, for example, 3 lines (R, G, B), for example being identical to the strip used in the sensors of the E2V Elixa UC8 mark, of resolution 4 by 4096 pixels, generating an 8 or 10-bit coded signal. . The braking of the roller 760 can be achieved by means of a control button 770 and by means of a stepper motor. which, when it receives the signal, actuates the advance of a pad that can stop the rotation of the roller 760.

The device also comprises a base station, not shown, to which the handpiece is connected, which comprises a computer, for example from the company Advantech, referenced PCM 4170. Enriched for example by a 256 MByte SDRAM memory, a mouse, a screen and an internet connection, and which offers by extension 4 ports USB ports. On the PC interface 104 is connected a daughter board 8 relays which controls the lighting of the LEDs and the stepping motor which controls the braking. This calculator can be equipped with a 32-bit input / output card compatible with the Arcom company's PC 104 format, referenced IO32, which makes it possible to interface with the optical sensor 780. The computer is equipped with software enabling : - manage the operation of the optical sensor; the capture frequency is chosen at 5000 Hz for example; storing the data from the optical sensor; - manage the lighting of the LEDs; to learn about the average color of the skin.

For this, the device can present on the screen several skin types and the user can choose from the colors presented. The device can retain the average skin color as the three components PR, PB. PJ respectively in red, blue and yellow. The execution of the software can also cause the device to learn about the color of the light-sensitive makeup for this, the device can present on the screen several colors of light-sensitive makeup; the user chooses among the colors presented. The device can retain the average color of the light-sensitive makeup in the form of the three components FR, FB, FJ. The device calculates a limit color difference, in the form of the three components ER = (FR-PR) / 2. EB = (FB-PB) / 2, EJ = (FJ-PJ).

The device can detect skin areas, at the pixel scale. whose color is different from a variation of DR, DB, DJ of the average color. If a predefined number of pixels, for example more than 40 pixels, has a color different from the average color, the computer sends the signal to the motor braking roller 760. The device can display on the screen, during the use of the handpiece. the graphical representation of the color coordinates of the skin collected by the optical sensor. In the variant illustrated in Figure 5, the device comprises. in addition to the previously described elements of the device of FIG. 4, a second optical sensor 788. formed for example of a CCD strip and a lighting of associated white LEDs. not shown. The device can also be equipped with two displacement detectors. for example reference EKM8022 Mouse controller, the company Elan, placed so as to provide information on the displacement along X and Y axes perpendicular to each other. A base station is created which contains a computer identical to the preceding example, which is equipped with a software allowing several functions, for example: managing the operation of the optical sensors; the capture frequency is chosen at 5000 Hz for example; manage the lighting of the LEDs; managing the data coming from the displacement detectors, for example relative to a starting point X.Y; indexing the data of each color capture point to an X, Y position, the data from the two sensors being placed in two different memories; - To learn about the average color of the skin, as previously described: - to learn about the color of the light-sensitive makeup, as previously described: - to calculate a limit color difference for example in the form of the three components ER = (FR- PR) / 2. EB = (FB-PB) / 2, EJ = (FJ-PJ); to compare for each point X and Y, the differences between the catches of each optical sensor. If a predefined number of pixels, for example more than 10 pixels. has a difference in color greater than or equal to the ER, EB deviations. EJ, the computer can send a signal to the motor to brake the roller 760.

The device can display on the screen, during use of the handpiece, the graphical representation of the coordinates of the color, of the skin collected by the sensors. The revelation device 800 shown in FIG. 6 comprises a housing 801 housing a source of electrical energy and a light source emitting at least one wavelength λ, which makes it possible to reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition, for example a UV light. and / or near UV. The device comprises for example a UV LED and may also include a switch 803 for controlling the operation of the source for revealing the thermally stable photochromic composition.

The device may further comprise, as illustrated, a second source emitting radiation capable of erasing the revealed areas, for example a white light source. This radiation can be emitted by an end 805 opposite to that by which radiation is emitted to reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition.

The device 840 shown in FIG. 7 comprises on one side a light source 841 for revealing the thermally stable photochromic composition and, on the other, a cleaning member 845 impregnated with a makeup-removing composition. This is for example a mouthpiece communicating with a reservoir containing the makeup remover composition. The device may comprise a closure cap 850 to prevent the makeup removal composition from drying in the absence of use. In a variant not shown, the UV radiation used for the revelation and the visible radiation used for erasing are emitted from the same end of the device. depending on the position of a selector that can be operated by the user. Examples proposed (the indicated proportions are mass) Negative One can create a negative for the light-sensitive makeup in the following way. A PowerPoine file is created representing a checkerboard where each square is about 3 m on each side. Then we print this file on a transparency with a laser printer. Transparency when not printed allows UV to pass through the UVA activation band around 365 nm. Illuminator The UV irradiator used is for example a Wood lamp, sold by Bioblock Scientific. reference VL 6L which delivers approximately 6W over approximately 75 cm-. around 365 nm. The power received, measured with a wattmeter, is 2.25 mW per cm2 at 3 cm from the device.

Tests The tests are carried out in ambient light in a closed room. Formula 1 (photochromic composition): Diarylethene * 0.8% (12-BIS (2,4-DIMETHYL-5-PHENYL-3-THIENYL) -3,3,4,4,5,5-HEXAFLUOROCYCLOPETENE) Glycerol 4% Acetate ethyl qs 100% Formula 2 (photoprotective composition): Parsol 1789 5% alcohol Benzoate C12-C15 70% (Tegosoft TN Evonik Goldschmitt) Ethanol qs 100% Formula 3 (make-up removal composition): Lauryl ether sulfate Water This is introduced mixture of water and lauryl ether sulfate in an aerosol. pressurized with EMR (65/35). Light-sensitive makeup and friction simulation assays Sa and Sb surfaces, made of a white plastic material (polyurethane), representing the texture of the skin and sold by the company Beaulax, under the trademark Bioskin ref #white 061031 -2.

On the surface Sa, a light-sensitive makeup is produced using formula 1, the negative and the irradiator. The thermally stable photochromic composition is applied and allowed to dry for one minute. Then, we plate the negative on the surface by holding it by hand and we approach the irradiator about 3cm from the surface. It is irradiated for 10 seconds, corresponding to an energy of about 22.5 mJ / cm 2. After drying, friction is rubbed with a T (white cotton) fabric for 1 hour by rubbing the fabric on a surface Sa. Friction of an untreated skin surface with treated skin is also simulated by rubbing the surface Sb with Sa surface. This operation is carried out again on other surfaces. Test 1: The makeup of surfaces Sa, Sb and T is removed by manually using formula 3, taking care not to leave traces of light-sensitive makeup.

The three surfaces do not show any traces of light-sensitive makeup. However, after a few hours we see in the external light that certain parts of the surface Sa are revealed quite strongly. The surfaces Sb and T are also revealed, but in a weaker way. Test 2: Removal of the Sa, T and Sb surfaces is carried out by first using a revealing device, for example as illustrated in FIGS. 6 or 7 and then using formula 3, ensuring that the three surfaces no longer trace 4% qs 100% light-sensitive makeup. It can be seen that the three surfaces remain color-free, even by replacing them with UV light. Test 3: Removal of makeup of the surfaces Sa, Sb and T is carried out by the optical make-up removal device, for example as described with reference to FIG. 1. The three surfaces do not show traces of light-sensitive makeup. We see after a few hours in the external light that some parts of the surface Sa are revealed quite strongly. The surfaces Sb and T are also revealed, but in a weaker way. Test 4: Optical makeup removing of surfaces Sa, Sb and T is carried out as in test 3. Then, the surfaces are treated with formula 3. It is seen after a few hours that the surface is stained by revelation of the photochromic agent . Test 5 The surfaces Sa, Sb and T are revealed. Then, the three surfaces are removed from the makeup by the optical make-up remover tool, and formula 2 is applied. The three surfaces do not show any trace of light-sensitive makeup. . We see that the three surfaces remain free of revelation, even by replacing them with UV light. Test 6: The user impregnates the roller of the device of FIG. 3 with the formula 3.

He places the device on the surface to be treated, then moves it slowly while looking in the gap between the roller and the source if stains appear. As soon as a stain appears, the user presses the brake button on the roller. Test 7: The user impregnates the roll of the device of FIG. 4 of formula 3. He places the device on the surface to be cleaned, then moves it slowly. As soon as a stain appears, the device automatically brakes the roller, which causes makeup removal. Test 8: The user impregnates the roller of the device of FIG. 5 with formula 3. He places the device on the surface and then moves it slowly. As soon as a stain appears, the device automatically brakes the roller which causes makeup removal.

The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. In particular. other areas of the body than the face can be treated. All examples referring to a facial treatment are also worth to treat other regions. The expression having one must be understood as being synonymous with 5 having at least one.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. A process for removing at least a partial makeup of human keratinous materials masked with a thermally stable photochromic composition present on an area of said keratin materials, a process in which prior to the cleaning of said keratinous materials, during or after this this. the zone is subjected to a radiation suitable for revealing any traces of thermally stable photochromic composition not activated by the light-sensitive makeup, and its erasure or at least partial elimination is carried out. 2. Method according to claim 1, wherein said traces are at least partially mechanically removed, in particular by friction. 3. Method according to one of claims 1 and 2, wherein a makeup removing composition is applied to said traces to eliminate them at least partially. 4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the elimination is performed by a device moved on the keratin materials, carrying a light source capable of revealing the thermally stable photochromic composition and an elimination system configured to at least partially removing the thermally stable photochromic composition. 5. Method according to claim 4, the elimination system comprising a rotatable member (760) rotating in contact with the keratin materials and whose rotation can be selectively braked to eliminate by friction the thermally stable photochromic thermally stable stable photochromic composition. 6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, the elimination being effected automatically following the detection of the thermally stable photochromic composition. 7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, the thermally stable photochromic composition being detectable under UV illumination and / or near UV. 8. The method of claim 1, the erasure being effected by irradiation in visible light and being followed by the application of an optical agent filtering UV. in particular filtering capacity greater than or equal to 2, better 5 or 10. 9. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, the radiation for the revelation being emitted by an optical output manually moved relative to the keratinous materials to be removed. 10. Makeup removal aid for a make-up made with a thermally stable photochromic composition comprising a photorevable agent which can be exposed by irradiation at at least one wavelength X, comprising: a light source emitting at least the length of wave 2., to reveal traces of photochromic agent still present on keratin materials. A system for eliminating said traces of photochromic agent. configured to remove these traces. 11. Device according to claim 10, the elimination system being arranged to selectively rub keratin materials to remove said traces. 12. Device according to claim 10 or 11, comprising an optical sensor 15 for detecting said traces and the elimination system being controlled automatically according to this detection. 13. Device according to any one of claims 10 to 12. the elimination system comprising a rotatable member (760) rotating in contact with the keratin materials and whose rotation can be selectively braked to eliminate by friction 20 the thermally stable photochromic composition . 14. Device according to any one of claims 10 to 13. the wavelength k belonging to the UV spectrum and / or near UV. 15. Device according to any one of claims 10 to 14. the elimination system comprising a member (845; 760) impregnated with a makeup removing composition. in contact or may come into contact with the revealed areas to be eliminated.