FR2923709A1 - Composition, useful for direct coloring of human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises direct dyes, cationic surfactants, fatty acid esters and fatty alcohols - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition (A) for direct coloring of human keratin fibers, comprises one or more direct dyes, one or more cationic surfactants, one or more fatty acid esters and one or more fatty alcohols, in a medium. Independent claims are included for: (1) a ready-to-use composition (B) obtained by extemporaneous mixing of (A) with at least a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, before the application; (2) a process for coloring human keratin fibers comprising applying (A) on the keratin fibers; (3) a process for coloring human keratin fibers comprising applying (B) on dry or wet keratin fibers; and (4) a device with several compartments comprising (A) in a first compartment and a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents in a second compartment.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR THE DIRECT COLORING OF HUMAN KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING A FATTY ALCOHOL, A FATTY ESTER AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT IN PARTICULAR PROPORTIONS, A METHOD FOR COLORING THE SAME AND A DEVICE The subject of the present invention is a dye composition for the direct dyeing of keratinous fibers comprising one or more direct dyes, one or more fatty alcohols and fatty esters as well as one or more cationic surfactants, a process for dyeing keratinous fibers in which such a composition is applied to said fibers and a device for several compartments suitable for its implementation.

Among the methods for staining human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, mention may be made of direct or semi-permanent staining. The method conventionally used in direct dyeing consists in applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers, to be allowed to pausate to allow the molecules to penetrate, by diffusion, into the interior of the body. the fiber, then rinse them.

The direct dyes generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. Although this staining method does not systematically require the use of an oxidizing agent under alkaline conditions, its use can be envisaged when it is desired to simultaneously color and lighten the fibers. In this case, the dye composition is mixed before application to an oxidizing composition.

One of the disadvantages that still remains with this type of coloration is the risk of staining of the skin and scalp.

To limit these risks or to reduce the inconvenience, it is common practice to protect the skin by depositing at the limit of the implantation of the hair and the skin of the face (forehead, temples, neck) a fat cream, and of course the person applying the product wears gloves. Despite these precautions, the risks of staining are not sufficiently removed, which represents for many users an important constraint.

Other difficulties are also encountered during the implementation of these processes, particularly when considering alkaline conditions, in particular oxidizing conditions. Indeed, under these conditions, the compositions employed generally comprise ammonia, whose role is not only to adjust the pH of the dye composition to an alkaline pH to allow the degradation of the oxidizing agent if it is present, but also to swell the keratin fiber to promote the penetration of the oxidant if present, and to a lesser extent dyes in the fiber. This basifying agent being very volatile, there is a release of ammonia during the process, which is not favorable for the latter and also causes inconvenience to the user because of the strong characteristic odor, rather uncomfortable with such compositions. Thus, it is not possible to simply drop the amount of ammonia used in these compositions, in particular when they comprise an oxidizing agent, despite the risks of intolerance that can sometimes be observed in relatively high concentrations of ammonia (scalp irritations in the form of tingling).

Moreover, often direct colorations, lightening or not, have a level of intensity and / or chromaticity still insufficient. One of the objectives of the present invention is therefore to provide dye compositions which limit the aforementioned drawbacks, without however degrading the properties of use of such compositions.

It has indeed been found, quite unexpectedly, that such results can be obtained by combining, in dyeing compositions, one or more fatty alcohols, one or more fatty esters with one or more cationic surfactants.

In the case where the compositions of the invention comprise ammonia as alkalinizing agent, it has thus been observed that, unexpectedly, the amount of ammonia released from the composition was less important than that released by compositions usual having the same ammonia content. The compositions according to the invention therefore make it possible to limit the disadvantages due to the presence of ammonia, without it being necessary to reduce the concentration thereof. However, since it is possible to limit the release of ammonia, it would be quite feasible to reduce the ammonia content in the composition without noting the decline in color efficiency expected normally in such circumstances.

These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a dye composition (A) for the direct dyeing of human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: * one or more direct dyes; one or more cationic surfactants; One or more fatty acid esters; One or more fatty alcohols. It also relates to a ready-to-use composition (B) comprising one or more direct dyes, one or more cationic surfactants, one or more fatty acid esters, one or more fatty alcohols. , one or more oxidizing agents. More particularly, this composition (B) is obtained by mixing a dye composition (A) above with an oxidizing composition.

It also relates to a process for dyeing human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, in which the aforementioned dye composition (A) is applied to the keratin fibers, with or without the presence of one or more oxidizing agents.

It also relates to a process for dyeing human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, in which the ready-to-use composition (B) is applied to the keratinous fibers.

Finally, it relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in at least a first compartment, the composition according to the invention, and in at least a second compartment, a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

It should be noted that in what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are within this range.

As has been indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dyes chosen from ionic species (cationic, anionic or amphoteric) or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic and even more preferably cationic.

As examples of suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

More particularly, the azo dyes comprise a function -N = N- whose two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is not excluded that one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N = N- is involved in a cycle.20 The dyes of the methine family are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from> C = C <and -N = C <whose two atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a cycle. It is however specified that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the chains can be engaged in a cycle. More particularly, the dyes of this family are derived from methine, azomethine, mono- and di-arylmethane compounds, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanines, azacabocyanines and their isomers, diazacarbocyanines and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanines, hemicyanines As regards the dyes of the carbonyl family, mention may be made, for example, of the dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigo, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole, coumarin. As regards the dyes of the family of cyclic azines, there may be mentioned in particular azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di) oxazine, (di) thiazine, pyronine. The nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitro pyridinic direct dyes. With regard to porphyrin or phthalocyanine dyes, it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for example alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon.

By way of example of particularly suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of the nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo direct dyes; azomethines; methinic; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethanics; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. These dyes may be monochromophoric dyes (that is to say comprising only one dye) or polychromophoric dyes, preferably di- or tri-chromophoric dyes; the chromophores which may be identical or different, of the same chemical family or not. It should be noted that a polychromophoric dye comprises several radicals each derived from an absorbing molecule in the visible range between 400 and 800 nm. In addition, this absorbance of the dye does not require any prior oxidation thereof, or association with other (s) species (s) chemical (s).

In the case of polychromophoric dyes, the chromophores are connected to each other by means of at least one linker which may or may not be cationic.

Preferably, the linker is a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C20 alkyl chain, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or by at least one group comprising (CO, SO2), optionally interrupted by at least one heterocycle condensed or not with a phenyl ring and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one unsubstituted or substituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted by two optionally substituted C1-C15 alkyl groups; the linking arm does not comprise a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group. If the heterocycles or aromatic rings are substituted, they are substituted for example by one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or amino group substituted by one or two C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or both radicals which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another identical heteroatom or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a hydroxyalkoxy radical at 02-04; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.

Among the benzene direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in a nonlimiting manner: -1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-B-hydroxyethylaminobenzene-1-amino -2-nitro-4-bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene-1,4-bis (3-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene -1-B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis (13-hydroxyethylamino) -1-B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene -1-13-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) (B-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene -1-amino-3-methyl-4- benzene 13-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene -1-amino-2-nitro-4-13-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene -1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2-13-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene 1,2-bis (13-hydroxyethylamino) -4-nitrobenzene -1-amino-2-tris (hydroxymethyl) methylamino-5-nitrobenzene -1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-1 2-amino-4-nitrobenzene -1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene-1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene -1-13-hydroxyethyloxy-2-13-h 5-Hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene 6 -1-Methoxy-2-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene

- 1-13-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene

1- [13-yl] dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene

1-I3-hydroxyethylamino-4-13-yl-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene -1-13-yl-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene -1-13-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene -1 13-Hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene -1-13-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-2-chloro -6-amino-4-nitrobenzene

1-Hydroxy-6-bis- (13-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3-nitrobenzene -1-13-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene

1-Hydroxy-4-13-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

Among the azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954; FR 2189006, FR 2285851, FR-2140205, EP 1378544, EP 1674073.

Thus, the following dyestuffs of formulas (I) to (IV), and preferably the compounds of formulas (I) and (III), may especially be mentioned:

A-D = D N \ (I) x- R2 R3 in which:

D represents a nitrogen atom or the group -CH, R, and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical which may be substituted with a -CN, -OH or -NH 2 radical or form, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, an optionally oxygenated or nitrogenous heterocycle, which may be substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals; C4; a 4'-aminophenyl radical, R3 and R'3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano radical, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or C4, C1-C4 alkoxy or acetyloxy,

X - represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, A represents a group chosen by the following structures Al to A18: R4 NNN +1 1 + R4 R4 Al R4 A2 A3 R R4, 4 N1N + R4 N4 R4 N4 R4 N4 R4 R4 N4 R4 R4 N4 R4 R4 N4 R4 N4 R4 N4 R4 R4 N4 R4 R4 R4 R4 R4 N4 , In which R4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical which may be substituted by a hydroxyl radical and R5 represents a C1-C4 alkoxy radical; Wherein R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 7 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical which may be substituted by a -CN radical or by an amino group , a 4'-aminophenyl radical or forms, with R 6, an optionally oxygenated and / or nitrogenous heterocycle which may be substituted by a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 and R 9, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an atom of halogen such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, a radical -ON, X- represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate,

B represents a group chosen by the following structures B1 to B6: R10, R10, R10 N + N -N + N N + -R10 1 I I; R1 1 1 s ~ S N iS Rice B2 B3 Rio B1 Rio Il N + R 0 S

R10-B4 B5 B6 wherein R10 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R11 and R12i, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; Wherein R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine; R14 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or forms, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, an optionally oxygenated heterocycle and / or substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, R15 represents a hydrogen atom; hydrogen or halogen such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, R16 and R17i identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, D1 and D2, identical or different, represent a nitrogen atom or the -CH group, m = 0 or 1, X - represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, E represents a group chosen by structures El to E8 following ones: R'iN // \ ù E1 OH oo R 'R' R '~ R' 'N N + N + E3 E4 and R' E8 N N + 1 R 'E7 in which R' r is a C1-C4 alkyl radical;

when m = 0 and D1 represents a nitrogen atom, then E may also designate a group of the following structure E9: R 'E9 N + 1 R' in which R 'represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical. G n N N (IV) in which:

the symbol G represents a group chosen from the following structures G1 to G3: ## STR1 ## in which structures R1 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a radical phenyl which may be substituted by a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a halogen selected from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine; R19 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; R20 and R21i, which are identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, or together form in G1 a benzene ring substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy or NO2 radicals, or together form in G2 a benzene ring optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl C1-C4 alkoxy, or NO2; R20 may further denote a hydrogen atom; Z represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or a group -NR19i M represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR22 (X-) r; K represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR22 (X-) r; P represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR22 (X-) r; r is zero or 1; R22 represents an O- atom, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; R23 and R24i, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, an -NO2 radical; ; X- represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate; with the proviso that, if R22 is O-, then r is zero; if K or P or M denote -N-alkyl C1-C4 X-, then R23 or R24 is different from a hydrogen atom; if K denotes -NR22 (X-) r, then M = P = -CH, -CR; if M denotes -NR22 (X-) r, then K = P = -CH, -CR; if P denotes -NR22 (X-) r, then K = M and denote -CH or -CR; if Z denotes a sulfur atom with R 21 denoting C 1 -C 4 alkyl, then R 20 is different from a hydrogen atom; if Z denotes -NR22 with R19 denoting C1-C4 alkyl, then at least one of the radicals R18i R20 or R21 of the group of structure G2 is different from a C1-C4 alkyl radical;

the symbol J represents: - (a) a group of the following structure J1: J1 structure J1 in which R25 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, a -OH, -NO2, -NHR28, -NR29R30, -NHCO-C1-C4 alkyl radical, or form with R26 a 5- or 6-membered ring 11 containing or not containing one or more heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur;

R 26 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom selected from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, or form with R27 or R28 a ring 5- or 6-membered ring containing or not containing one or more heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur;

R27 represents a hydrogen atom, an -OH radical, a radical -NHR28i a radical - NR29R30;

R28 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C2-04 polyhydroxyalkyl radical or a phenyl radical;

R29 and R30, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical or a C2-04 polyhydroxyalkyl radical; (b) a 5- or 6-membered nitrogenous heterocyclic group capable of containing other heteroatoms and / or carbonyl groups and which may be substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl, amino or phenyl radicals,

and in particular a group of structure J2 following: / R3, (Yù \ / (U) n Jz N

Wherein R31 and R32i, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; YCH3 Y denotes the radical -CO- or the radical ùc_;

n = 0 or 1, with, when n denotes 1, U denotes the -CO- radical. In the structures (I) to (IV) defined above, the alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkoxy group preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, butyl, methoxy, ethoxy. Among the compounds of formulas (I) and (III), the following compounds (1) to (8) are preferred: CH 3 C H 3 CH 3

N = N NCH3X- N = NN \ X N + N + CH3 \ \ CH3 (1) CH3 (2) H3CuN~~ N = N X- (6) CH X- The direct dyes that may be used include dyes methiniques such as the Basic Red 14, and also the azo direct dyes chosen in particular from the following dyes, described in the COLOR INDEX INTERNATIONAL 3rd edition

- Disperse Red 17 - Basic Red 22

- Basic Red 76

- Basic Yellow 57 - Basic Brown 16 - Basic Brown 17 - Disperse Black 9.

We may also mention 1- (4'-aminodiphenylazo) -2-methyl-4bis- (13-hydroxyethyl)

aminobenzene.

Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of the following dyes:

- Disperse Red 15 - Purple Solvent 13 - Disperse Violet 1 - Disperse Violet 4 - Disperse Blue 1

- Disperse Violet 8 - Disperse Blue 3 - Disperse Red 11 - Disperse Blue 7 - Basic Blue 22

- Disperse Violet 15 - Basic Blue 99

as well as the following compounds:

- 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone CH3

LN + N CH3 CH3 NC, ùN = NN CH3 X- H3C-N + C = NN ~ / H3C-N + C = NN OCH3 (7) XCH3 (8) N = N (5) NH2 X- NH2 N + (3) CH3 X (4) 3 -1-Aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone -1-Aminopropylaminoanthraquinone -5-13-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone -2-Aminoethylaminoanthraquinone -1,4-Bis- (13-yl-dihydroxypropylamino) -anthraquinone . Among the azine dyes, mention may be made of the following compounds: - Basic Blue 17 - Basic Red 2. Among the triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: - Basic Green 1 - Basic Violet 3 - Basic Violet 14 Among the indoamine dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: -2- [3-hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis ((3-4'-hydroxyethyl) amino] anilino -1,4-Benzoquinone -2- [3-hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1,4-benzoquinone-3-N (2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy) phenyl) acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine-3-N (3'-chloro-4'-methylamino) phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine -3- [4'-N] - (Ethyl, carbamylmethyl) amino] phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine. Among the tetraazapentamethine type dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds appearing in the table below, An being defined as above: ## STR1 ## + ~ NO N OMe 1 1 N% NY 1 X- 1 + 1I X N + ~ NNNNN X NNNNNN OH OH X N + N * NN.N% Nj X NNNN.NN 1 X OH NN% NN NX - OH NNNNN H OH OH X- represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate.

Among the polychromophoric dyes, mention may be made more particularly of azo and / or azomethine (hydrazonic) di- or trichromophoric dyes, symmetrical or not, comprising on the one hand at least one aromatic heterocycle comprising 5 or 6 ring members, optionally fused, comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said heterocycle and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen), and on the other hand, at least one phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally substituted, optionally carrying at least one OR group with R representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl radical, an optionally substituted phenyl ring, or at least one N (R ') 2 group with R identical or not, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl radical or an optionally substituted phenyl ring; the radicals R 'which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a saturated 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, or else one and / or both radicals R' may each form with the carbon atom of the aromatic ring placed in ortho of the nitrogen atom, a 5- or 6-membered saturated heterocycle. As aromatic cationic heterocycle, there may be mentioned, preferably, 5- or 6-membered rings comprising 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms, preferably 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one being quaternized; said heterocycle being optionally further fused to a benzene ring. It should also be noted that the heterocycle may optionally comprise another heteroatom different from nitrogen, such as sulfur or oxygen. If the heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are substituted, they are substituted, for example, with one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy or C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or substituted amino group. one or two C1-C4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or both radicals which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another heteroatom; identical or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a hydroxyalkoxy radical at 02-04; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group. These polychromophores are connected to one another by means of at least one linking arm optionally comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom, which may or may not be engaged in a saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic heterocycle. Preferably, the linker is a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C20 alkyl chain, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or by at least one group comprising (CO, SO2), optionally interrupted by at least one heterocycle condensed or not with a phenyl ring and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one unsubstituted or substituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted by two optionally substituted C1-C15 alkyl groups; the linking arm does not comprise a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group. The link between the linker and each chromophore is generally by means of a heteroatom which substitutes the phenyl or naphthyl ring or by means of the quaternized nitrogen atom of the cationic heterocycle.

The dye may comprise identical or different chromophores. By way of examples of such dyes, reference may especially be made to patent applications EP 1637566, EP 1619221, EP 1634926, EP 1619220, EP 1672033, EP 1671954, EP 1671955, EP 1679312, EP 1671951, EP167952, EP167971, WO 06/063866, WO 06/063867, WO 06/063868, WO 06/063869, EP 1408919, EP 1377264, EP 1377262, EP 1377261, EP 1377263, EP 1399425, EP 1399117, EP 1416909, EP 1399116, EP 1671560. can also also use cationic direct dyes cited in applications EP 1006153, which describes dyes comprising two anthraquinone chromophores connected by means of a cationic linker; EP 1433472, EP 1433474, EP 1433471 and EP 1433473 which describe identical or different dichromophoric dyes, connected by a cationic or non-cationic linking arm, as well as EP 6291333 which describes in particular dyes comprising three chromophores, one of them being an anthraquinone chromophore to which are connected two azo-type chromophores or diazacarbocyanine or one of its isomers.

Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna.

Preferably, the direct dyes present in the composition according to the invention comprise cationic direct dyes of formulas (I) to (IV) and even more preferably of formulas (I) and (III) mentioned above.

It should be noted that the compounds (1) to (8) previously listed are particularly advantageous in coloring processes carried out under lightening conditions, that is to say in the presence of an oxidizing agent and at a pH above particularly alkaline.

The direct dye (s) represent more particularly from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It should be noted that the composition does not include oxidation dye precursor (s) (bases and couplers). The oxidation dye precursors are used in oxidation dyeing and correspond to colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, make it possible to access colored species by a process of oxidative condensation.

By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. The couplers are usually chosen from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds, and make it possible to vary the shades obtained with the oxidation bases.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty esters. Fatty esters within the meaning of the present invention more particularly include a carboxylic acid ester comprising in its structure a fatty chain containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and an alcohol which is preferably a monoalcohol, especially C1-C30, more particularly C1-C22, or a sugar. More particularly, these compounds are chosen from: linear or branched C1-C30 saturated monohydric alcohol esters with monofunctional C10-C30 fatty acids, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; esters of C3-C8 linear or branched monohydric alcohols, with C10-C30i bifunctional fatty acids, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; esters and diesters of C10-C30 fatty acid sugars; their mixtures.

As regards the linear or branched C1-C30 saturated monohydric alcohol esters with monofunctional C10-C22 fatty acids, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds (-C = C-), conjugated or otherwise. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, these esters may be chosen in particular from oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof such as in particular oleo-palmitates. , Oleo-stearates, palmito-stearates of C1-C30 monoalcohols. Among these esters, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, octyl dodecyl stearate and isononyl isononate are used more particularly.

Among the esters of linear or branched C 8 -C 20 monohydric alcohols with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 10 -C 30 bifunctional fatty acids, mention may be made more particularly of the isopropyl di-ester of sebacic acid, also called sebacate of di-isopropyl,

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C10-C30 fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C10-C30 fatty acids. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, sugar arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the oleo-palmitate, oleostearate, mixed esters, palmito-sugar stearate (s). More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE.

Preferably, the fatty ester used is a compound chosen from linear or branched C1-C18 saturated monohydric alcohol esters with monofunctional C14-C18 fatty acids, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

The composition according to the invention has a fatty ester (s) content advantageously between 0.3 and 12.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight and according to an even more preferred variant of the invention, from 0.6 to 9% by weight.

The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more fatty alcohols. More particularly, said fatty alcohol is chosen from non (poly) oxyalkylenated alcohols (alkyl having 1 to 3 carbon atoms) and non (poly) glycerolated alcohols, comprising one or more fatty chains having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and even more advantageously from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, the fatty chains being optionally substituted by one or two additional hydroxyl groups. When the alcohol is unsaturated, it comprises from 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds (-C = C-), conjugated or otherwise. Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a monoalcohol. As examples of fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, behenic, myristic, linoleic, undecylenic, palmitoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, erucic, isoketyl, isostearyl, isobehenyl alcohol, oleic alcohol and their salts. mixtures.

Preferably, the composition comprises one or more non (poly) oxyalkylenated and non (poly) glycerolated fatty monoalcohol comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and more specifically from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, which are saturated.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition has a content of fatty alcohol (s) of between 3 and 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight and in accordance with an even more preferred variant of the invention, from 6 to 18% by weight.

It should be noted that according to a very advantageous characteristic of the invention, the fatty ester (s) and the fatty alcohol (s) are present in amounts such that the weight ratio of fatty alcohol (s) to fatty ester (s) is greater than 2 and less than 10. Preferably, the weight ratio of fatty alcohol (s) to fatty ester (s) is between 3 and 9.

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more cationic surfactants. More particularly, these surfactants are chosen from compounds comprising at least one cationic charge and at least one C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl chain optionally bearing at least one ester or amide function. It is also specified that the cationic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention do not carry anionic charge. These surfactants are therefore not amphoteric or zwitterionic species.

As examples of suitable cationic surfactants, mention may be made of: (i) the quaternary ammonium salts of the following formula (V): ## STR1 ## wherein X is an anion chosen for example from the group of halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or (C2-C6) alkyl sulphates, more particularly methyl sulphate, phosphates, alkyl or alkylarylsulphonates, anions derived from an organic acid such as acetate or the lactate, and (1) the radicals R1 to R3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 aliphatic radical, or an aryl or alkylaryl radical, the alkyl radical optionally carrying a grouping alkoxy, alkylamide, R4 denotes a linear or branched C16-C30, preferably C14-C22, alkyl radical; OR (2) the radicals R1 and R2i, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 aliphatic radical or a radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, the alkyl radical optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide or hydroxyalkyl group; C1-C4; R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C12-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, said radical optionally comprising at least one ester or amide function;

Advantageously, the cationic surfactant according to the above-mentioned option (1) is a salt (for example chloride) of behenyltrimethylammonium, and according to option (2) a salt (for example chloride) of stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium marketed under the name CERAPHYL 70 by the company VAN DYK. wherein R5 is alkenyl or C12-C30alkyl, R6 is hydrogen, C1-C4alkyl or alkenyl or C12-C30alkyl, R7 is C1-C4alkyl; , R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X is an anion X especially chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulphonates. Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals having from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 denotes methyl and R 8 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by the company WITCO; (Iii) the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VII): wherein R 9 denotes a C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, R 10, R 11, R 12, R 13 and R 13; R14i, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and (ii) the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolinium of formula (VI) below: + Is CH2-CH2-N (R8) ## STR2 ## X is an anion especially chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulphates. Such diammonium quaternary salts include in particular propane dichloride diammonium. (iv) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of the following formula (VIII): ## STR2 ## (CpH 2 O) x R 16 X (VIII) R15 wherein: R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C2-C6 dihydroxyalkyl; R16 is chosen from the radical R19-CO-, a radical R20 alkyl or alkenyl C1-C22 linear or branched, a hydrogen atom; R18 is chosen from the radical R21-CO-, an R22 alkyl or alkenyl radical; in linear or branched C1-C6, a hydrogen atom, R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C12-C22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals; • n, p and r, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; • y is an integer from 1 to 10; ^ X and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; • X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic.

Ammonium salts of formula (VIII) in which: R15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, x and y are 1; Z is 0 or 1; • n, p and r are equal to 2; R16 is selected from R19-CO-, methyl, ethyl, alkyl or C14-C22 alkenyl; the hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R21i, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radicals; R18 is chosen from the radical R21-CO-, the hydrogen atom. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company Cognis, STEPANQUAT by the company Stepan, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE. 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. (E) or mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, as cationic surfactant (s), one or more cationic surfactants of formula (V), and preferably one or more cationic surfactants of formula (V) corresponding to option (1).

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition has a content of cationic surfactant (s) of between 0.01 and 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05 and 20% by weight. and according to a particular variant of the invention, from 0.1 to 18% by weight.

According to a preferred characteristic of the invention, the cationic surfactant (s) and the fatty alcohol (s) are present in quantities such that the weight ratio of fatty alcohol (s) / cationic surfactant (s) is greater than or equal to 1, more preferably greater than or equal to 2. Preferably, said weight ratio is between 1 and 50, more preferably between 2 and 30.

The cosmetically acceptable medium generally comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents.

Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, glycerol and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof . The solvent or solvents may be present in proportions ranging preferably from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, and still more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise various additives conventionally used in the field of the dyeing of human keratin fibers. The composition may thus comprise inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular clays, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric, optionally associative anionic polymers; mattifying or opacifying agents such as titanium oxides; anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; penetrating agents, sequestering agents, such as ethylenediamine tetraacetic or its salts; buffers; dispersants; film-forming agents; preservatives; vitamins ; perfumes ; ceramides; volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified; UV filters; vegetable or mineral oils.

The additives as defined above may be present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 40% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may also close one or more antioxidants such as ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid. It may also comprise one or more reducing agents such as sulphite, bisulfite or ammonium metabisulphite or else ammonium thiolactate. Usually, the reducing agent and antioxidant contents, when present, range from 0.005 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more substantive, cationic or amphoteric polymers. The substantive character (ie the hair depositability) of the polymers is conventionally determined by means of the test described by Richard J. Crawford, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1980, 31 - (5) - pages 273-278 (disclosure by Red 80 acid dye). These substantive polymers are in particular described in the patent application EP 557203. More particularly, it is possible to use polymers chosen from cellulose cationic derivatives, homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium halide (for example Merquat 100) and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium halide and (meth) acrylic acid; homopolymers and copolymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium halide; quaternary polyammonium polymers; vinylpyrrolidone polymers with cationic units; cationic polysiloxanes; their mixtures.

Among the substantive polymers of the dimethyldiallylammonium halide copolymer type that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylic acid such as that of proportions (80/20 by weight) sold under the Merquat 280 denomination by Calgon; copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Merck.

Among the polymeric polymers of the methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium halide polymer type that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the products which are designated in the CTFA dictionary (5th edition, 1993) "Polyquaternium 37", "Polyquaternium 32" and "Polyquaternium 37". Polyquaternium 35 ", which correspond respectively, as regards" Polyquaternium 37 ", to the cross-linked poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) chloride, in a 50% dispersion in mineral oil, and sold under the name Salcare SC95 by the Allied Colloids, in the case of "Polyquaternium 32", to the crosslinked copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight), in a 50% dispersion in mineral oil, and sold under the Salcare SC92 denomination by the company Allied Colloids, and as regards the "Polyquaternium 35", with methosulfate of the methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylam copolymer monium and methacryloyloxyethyldimethylacetylammonium, sold under the name Plex 7525L by Rohm GmbH. The substantive polymers of the quaternary polyammonium type which can be used according to the invention are the following:

the polymers prepared and described in French Patent 2,270,846, consisting of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (IX): ## STR3 ## especially those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is between 9500 and 9900; the polymers prepared and described in French Patent 2,270,846, consisting of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (X): CH3 C2H5

## STR1 ## especially those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is about 1200; the polymers described and prepared in US Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,390,689, 4,702,906 and 4,719,282, and consisting of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (XI): CH 3 Cl 3 CH 3 N (CH 2 -NH) Where p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D may be zero or may represent a group - (CH 2) r CO- wherein r denotes a a number equal to 4 or 7, and especially those whose molecular weight is less than 100,000, preferably less than or equal to 50,000, such polymers are sold by the company Miranol under the names "Mirapol A15", "Mirapol" AD1 "," Mirapol AZ1 "and" Mirapol 175 ";

Among the vinylpyrrolidone polymers (PVP) with cationic units that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of: a) vinylpyrrolidone polymers containing dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate units; these include: the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (20/80 by weight) sold under the trade name COPOLYMER 845 by the company I.S.P. the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate, sold under the names GAFQUAT 734, 755, 755 and 755 L by the company I.S.P. PVP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / hydrophilic polyurethane, sold under the trade name Pecogel GC-310 by the company U.C.I.B. or alternatively under the names AQUAMERE C 1031 and C 1511 by the company BLAGDEN CHEMICALS, PVP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / C8 to C16 olefin, quaternized or non-quarternized, sold under the names Ganex ACP 1050 to 1057, 1062 to 1099, 1079 at 1086, by the company ISP PVP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam, sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company I.S.P. b) vinylpyrrolidone polymers comprising methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium (M.A.P.T.A.C.) units, among which mention may be made in particular of: - Vinylpyrrolidone / M.A.P.T.A.C. copolymers, sold under the trade names GAFQUAT ACP 1011 and GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company I.S.P. c) vinylpyrrolidone polymers comprising methylvinylimidazolium units, and among which may be mentioned more particularly: PVP / methylvinylimidazolium chloride, sold under the names Luviquat FC 370, FC 550, FC 905, HM 552 by the company B.A.S.F. PVP / Methylvinylimidazolium Chloride / Vinylimidazole, sold under the name Luviquat 8155 by the company B.A.S.F. PVV / methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate, sold under the name LUVIQUAT MS 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

Among the cationic polysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned are those described in patent application EP-A-0557203, from page 8 line 48 to page 11 line 9, and more including Amodimethicone "(denomination

R3 (XII) CH2 1 CH2-NHCH2CH2NH2 wherein R1, R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 alkoxy radical; x, y depending on the molar mass of the compound and its degree of substitution in amino groups. When they are present, the concentration of cationic (s) or amphoteric (s) substantive polymer (s) may vary between approximately 0.01 and 10% relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably between 0, 1 and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 2 and 11, and preferably between 4 and 9. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in the field.

Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.

Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, for example, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of formula Rx Rz Ry Rt in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl radical.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one oxidizing agent. In this case, we speak of ready-to-use composition (B).

In particular, the ready-to-use composition (B) is obtained by extemporaneous mixing before application of a dye composition (A) described above, with at least one composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents. more particularly the CTFA products of the following formula (XII): ## STR1 ## The oxidizing agent is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide and bromates. or alkali metal ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates and percarbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium, potassium and magnesium.

The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred. This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide), the titre of which may vary, more particularly, from 1 to 40 volumes, and even more preferably from 5 to 40 volumes.

The process according to the invention consists in applying the composition which has just been described to human keratin fibers, the latter being able to be dry or moist.

According to a first variant of the invention, the composition is applied in the absence of an oxidizing agent.

According to a second variant of the invention, the composition is applied in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents. In this case, it is possible to envisage a simultaneous or successive application of the dye composition and the oxidizing agent (s).

According to a first possibility, the composition according to the invention is mixed extemporaneously, before application, with no oxidizing agent, with at least one composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents (oxidizing composition), in order to obtain a ready-to-use composition. (B). This oxidizing composition, whose medium, cosmetically acceptable comprises at least water, also comprises one or more oxidizing agents as defined above. Regarding the organic solvents possibly present in the oxidizing composition, reference may be made to the list indicated previously in the context of the description of the dyeing composition. Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition is less than 7. The oxidizing composition may be in the form of a solution, an emulsion or a gel.

It may optionally comprise one or more additives conventionally used in the field of human keratin fiber staining, depending on the desired dosage form. We can again refer to the list of additives given above.

Generally, the dilution ratio of the dyeing composition is such that the resulting composition can be easily applied to the keratin fibers to be colored, while remaining localized to the place where it has been applied, in order to avoid the problems caused by the dyes. coulures of composition outside the area to be treated. More particularly, the dilution ratio (dye composition / oxidizing composition) ranges from 0.8 to 3, and preferably from 1 to 2. Finally, the pH of the resulting mixture is usually between 2 and 12, preferably between 5 and 11. It should be noted that the pH of this mixture can be adjusted if necessary by the use of alkalizing agents and / or acidifying agents described above.

According to a second possibility, the composition according to the invention is applied free of oxidizing agent and an oxidizing composition, one after the other, without intermediate rinsing (successively). It is thus possible to apply the oxidizing composition and then the dye composition or vice versa.

Whatever variant is chosen, without an oxidizing agent or with oxidizing agent (s) (whether the application is simultaneous or successive), the mixture present on the fibers is left in place for a period, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 10 minutes to 30 minutes. The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C. At the end of the treatment, the human keratinous fibers are optionally rinsed with water, washed with shampoo, rinsed again with water and then dried or left to dry. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE 1

The following composition (1 a) is prepared: Table 1 Ingredients Concentration (in g% Active material) Cetyl alcohol (*) 2.5 Stearyl alcohol (*) 2.5 Stearyl palmitate (*) 0.3 Stearyl stearate (*) 0.45 Behentrimonium chloride (*) 1.2 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15 chlorhexidine hydrochloride 0.015 Basic Orange 31 0.05 Water qs 100 The composition thus obtained gives rise to an unctuous orange cream formula. It is then applied to a wick of 90% natural white hair for 15 minutes at room temperature (about 20 ° C). After the break time, the lock is rinsed with water, washed with shampoo, rinsed again with water and then dried.

The dyeing power of the composition (1 a) according to the invention is compared with that of the reference composition. This reference composition is identical to that of the invention (1 a) without the ingredients marked with an asterisk (*) and with introduction of hydroxyethylcellulose (NATROSOL 250 MR AQUALON) at 1.5 g%.

Staining is measured using a Minolta CM2600d colorimeter in the CIE Lab system (illuminant D65, 10 ° angle, specular component included).

The results are collated in the following table Composition Color L * cream composition of the invention (1 a) orange 44,17 reference composition (1 b) orange 46,88 EXAMPLE 2

The composition (2a) according to the invention and the reference composition (2b) are prepared and applied under the same conditions as those detailed in Example 1.

Table 2a Ingredients Concentration (in g% Active Ingredient) Cetyl Alcohol (*) 2.5 Stearyl Alcohol (*) 2.5 Stearyl Palmitate (*) 0.3 Stearyl Stearate (*) 0.45 Behentrimonium chloride (*) 1.2 Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15 0.25 Water qs 100 The composition according to the invention (Table 2a) gives rise to an unctuous orange creamy formula.

For information, the reference composition (2b) is identical to that of the invention (2a) without the ingredients marked with an asterisk (*) and is furthermore comprises 1.5 g% of hydroxyethylcellulose (NATROSOL 250 MR of AQUALON ).

The results are summarized in the table below: Table 2c: Composition L * composition of the invention (4a) 44,26 reference composition (4b) 48,60 It is found that the coloration obtained by using the composition ( 2a) according to the invention is more intense than that obtained by using the composition (2b).

EXAMPLE 3 The composition (3a) according to the invention and the reference composition (3b) are prepared and applied under the same conditions as those detailed in Example 1.

Table 3a Ingredients Concentration (in g% Active material) Cetyl alcohol (*) 2.5 Stearyl alcohol (*) 2.5 Stearyl palmitate (*) 0.3 Stearyl stearate (*) 0.45 Behentrimonium chloride (*) 1.2 Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15 0.25 Water qs 100 The composition according to the invention (Table 3a) gives rise to a creamy cream formula of blue color.

For information, the reference composition (3b) is identical to that of the invention (3a) without the ingredients marked with an asterisk (*) and is furthermore comprises 1.5 g% of hydroxyethylcellulose (NATROSOL 250 MR of AQUALON ).

The results are summarized in the table below: Table 3c: Composition L * Composition of the invention (3a) 48.42 Reference composition (3b) 51.24 EXAMPLE 4

The composition (4a) according to the invention and the reference composition (4b) are prepared and applied under the same conditions as those detailed in Example 1. Table 4a Ingredients Concentration (in g% Active matter) Cetyl alcohol (*) 2.5 Stearyl alcohol (*) 2.5 Stearyl palmitate (*) 0.3 Stearyl stearate (*) 0.45 Behentrimonium chloride (*) 1.2 Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15 Chlorhexidine hydrochloride 0.015 Basic Red 14 3 Water qs 100 Composition according to the invention (Table 4a) gives rise to a creamy unctuous fuchsia color formula.

For information, the reference composition (4b) is identical to that of the invention (4a) without the ingredients marked with an asterisk (*) and is furthermore comprises 1.5 g% of hydroxyethylcellulose (NATROSOL 250 MR of AQUALON ).

The results are summarized in the table below: Table 4c: Composition L * composition of the invention (4a) 25.2 reference composition (4b) 29.9 It is found that the coloration obtained by using the composition (4a) according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a more intense (or more chromatic) coloration than that obtained with the reference composition (4b).

For these compositions (4a) and (4b), the staining power was evaluated.

For these tests, each composition was applied to Y2 head 30 times (10 times on oily hair, 10 times on dry hair and 10 times on normal hair). After a break time of 15 minutes, the hair is rinsed with water, washed with shampoo and rinsed with water again and then dried.

The scalp stain was then evaluated for each of the compositions. The results are collated in the following Table 4d: TABLE 4d: COMPARATIVE IN 1/2 TYPE OF TASK TASKAGE TASK TASK HEAD HAIR identical to greater than less than reference number la reference standard reference of oily hair 2 0 8 sec 0 0 10 normal 0 0 10 Total 30 2 0 28 It is found that the staining power of the composition according to the invention is less important than that of the reference composition.

Claims (19)

1. dye composition (A) for the direct dyeing of human keratin fibers, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more direct dyes; one or more cationic surfactants; one or more fatty acid esters; * one or more fatty alcohols. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the direct dye (s) are chosen from nonionic or ionic dyes, preferably nonionic or cationic dyes. 3. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the direct dye or dyes are selected from azo; methine, carbonyl, azine, nitro (hetero) aryl, tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of dye (s) direct (s) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.005 at 5% by weight. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty ester is chosen from: linear or branched C1-C30 saturated monohydric alcohol esters, with C10-C30i monofunctional fatty acids, these latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; esters of C3-C8i linear or branched monoalcohols with bifunctional C10-C30 fatty acids, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; esters and diesters of C10-C30 fatty acid sugars; their mixtures. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of fatty ester (s) is between 0.3 and 12.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol chosen from non (poly) oxyalkylenated and non (poly) glycerolated alcohols, comprising one or more fatty chains having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, said fatty chains optionally substituted by one or two additional hydroxyl groups 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol is a monoalcohol. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol content is between 3 and 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is chosen from compounds comprising one or more cationic charges and one or more C12-C30 alkyl or alkenyl chains optionally carrying one or more ester functions. or amide. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is chosen from: (i) the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (V) below: X- (V) in which X- is a anion and (1) the radicals R1 to R3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 aliphatic radical, or an aryl or alkylaryl radical, the alkyl radical optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide group; R4 denotes a linear or branched C16-C30 alkyl radical; or (2) the radicals R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 aliphatic radical or a radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, the alkyl radical optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide group; or hydroxyalkyl, C1-C4; R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C12-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, said radical optionally comprising at least one ester or amide function; (Ii) the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolinium of the following formula (VI): + 15 + R CH2-CH2-N (R8) -CO-R5 NIN + R, wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or C 12 -C 30 alkyl radical, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or C 12 -C 30 alkyl radical, R 7 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents an atom hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X is an anion; (iii) the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VII): embedded image in which R 9 denotes a C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, R 10, R 11, R 11, R 11, R 11, R 11 , R12, R13 and R14i identical or different are selected from hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and X is an anion; (iv) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of the following formula (VIII): ## STR2 ## wherein R 1 is hydrogen or C 2 -C 10 R16 X (VIII) R15 wherein: R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C2-C6 dihydroxyalkyl; R16 is chosen from the radical R19-CO-, a radical R20 alkyl or alkenyl C1-C22 linear or branched, a hydrogen atom; R18 is chosen from the radical R21-CO-, an R22 alkyl or alkenyl radical; in linear or branched C1-C6, a hydrogen atom, R17i R19 and R21i identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C12-C22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals; • n, p and r, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; • y is an integer from 1 to 10; X 1 and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; • X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; (v) or mixtures thereof. 15 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of cationic surfactant (s) is between 0.01 and 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of fatty alcohol (s) / ester (s) of fatty acid is greater than 2 and less than 10. 10 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of fatty alcohol (s) / cationic surfactant (s) being greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2. 15. Ready-to-use composition (B), characterized in that it is obtained by extemporaneous mixing before application, a dye composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, with at least one composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents. 16. A process for dyeing human keratin fibers, characterized in that a dye composition (A) according to any one of claims 1 to 14 is applied to the keratinous fibers. 17. A dyeing process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that a dye composition (A) is applied in the presence of an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the oxidizing composition being applied before or after said dyeing composition, without intermediate rinsing. 18. A process for staining human keratinous fibers, characterized in that the ready-to-use composition (B) according to claim 15 is applied to the dry or moist keratinous fibers. 19. Multi-compartment device comprising in at least a first compartment, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and in at least a second compartment, a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.