FR2915894A1 - Composition in oil-in-water emulsion form, useful for make-up and/or care of keratinous material, comprises an internal fatty phase and external aqueous phase comprising an inulin modified by hydrophobic chain - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition in oil-in-water emulsion form, comprises an internal fatty phase and an external aqueous phase comprising at least an inulin modified by hydrophobic chain, where the oily phase is present at 5-50 wt.%.

Description

The subject of the present invention is an emulsion-type composition

  oil-in-water, fluid to viscous, for the care, treatment or makeup of keratin materials such as skin, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair or lips.

  This composition can be a foundation, a blush, an eye shadow, a concealer, a lipstick, a mascara, a body makeup product, when it comes in colored form or be a cream skin care product, a conditioner, a shampoo, a sunscreen or skin-coloring cream or a dermatological ointment, when it is in uncoloured form.

  These compositions have various textures ranging from fluid to solid and generally contain oils and pulverulent dyestuffs. One of the difficulties encountered by the users is to be able to evenly spread the composition, for example the foundation on the entire surface of the face so as to evenly distribute the product. Very thick or solid texture compositions are difficult to spread because of their high viscosities. Fluid texture compositions are not always suitable for uniform makeup, leaving no visible marks on the skin, especially because of their poor spread over the entire surface of the face to make up.

  It is therefore often sought to formulate compositions having a sufficiently thickened texture to allow easy handling of the product, both when taking the composition out of its packaging, but also when it is applied to the skin and / or the materials. keratinous, but not so strong that it can no longer be sampled or spread homogeneously.

  It is known to introduce thickeners into the outer phase of the emulsions, or to increase the internal phase content dispersed to obtain the desired viscosity.

  However, during their industrial manufacture, it is then necessary to have an apparatus sufficiently powerful to allow a homogeneous dispersion of the internal phase in the thickened continuous phase. Such devices are, however, substantially more expensive.

  Moreover, the presence of pulverulent materials such as pigments or fillers, which are usual in cosmetic compositions, has the disadvantage of destabilizing the emulsions and significantly increasing the viscosity of the phase which comprises them. The industrial manufacturing process of these emulsions must then be monitored regularly to be properly controlled, and is more costly from the point of view of the energy consumption necessary for its implementation.

  There is therefore a need for cosmetic compositions having a sufficiently high viscosity to allow satisfactory handling of the product, especially during its application, but whose viscosity can be lowered during its industrial manufacture to facilitate its production.

  The inventors have shown that it is possible to obtain such a composition by introducing, in an oil-in-water emulsion, at least one specific hydrophobic modified polysaccharide.

  In particular, the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an expanded composition or intended to be. By expanded composition in the sense of the present 35

  application means a composition in which a gas has been introduced to give it the appearance of a foam, in particular to form, within the composition, gaseous cells separated by thin sections of base composition and thus it give a mousse texture.

  Indeed, to be swollen, the emulsions must have a sufficiently low viscosity during the step of incorporating the gas into the composition. They must also comprise gelling agents so that once expanded, the foam has good stability.

  The subject of the invention is, according to a first aspect, a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an internal fatty phase and an external aqueous phase comprising at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, said phase internal fat being present in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight.

  The subject of the invention is also, according to a second aspect, a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, and at least one wax with a content ranging from 1 at 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  According to a third aspect, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, and at least two hydrophilic gelling agents in a content of materials. dry matter ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The subject of the invention is also, according to a fourth aspect, a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, and a pulverulent phase in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The invention further relates to a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as described above.

  Hydrophobic modified polysaccharide The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophobic modified polysaccharide.

  In particular, the polysaccharide used in the present invention is chosen from fructans. The fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a chain of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with a plurality of different saccharide residues of fructose. The fructans can be linear or branched. The fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis in particular enzymatic. Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by 6-2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans as inulin. The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by 6-2-6 bonds. These products are levanes. The third group corresponds to mixed frucans, that is having sequences 6-2-6 and 6-2-1. These are essentially branched fructans than graminans. The fructans used in the compositions according to the invention are inulins. Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichokes. Preferably, the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained for example from chicory.

  Polysaccharides, in particular inulins, used in the compositions according to the invention are hydrophobically modified. In particular, they are obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of the fructan.

  The hydrophobic chains capable of being grafted onto the main chain of the fructan may in particular be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chains containing from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as the alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains. These hydrocarbon or organopolysiloxane chains can in particular comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, and / or sulphonamide functions, such as especially methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene. In particular, the polysaccharide, especially inulin, has a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a fructose unit. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains have at least one alkyl carbamate group of formula R-NH-CO- in which R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups. In particular, by way of illustration and not limitation, hydrophobic modified inulins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of stearoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem Inst by the company Engelhard and Rheopearl INS by the company Ciba; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INUK and Lifidrem INUM by the company Engelhard; and inulin lauryl carbamate such as that sold under the name INUTEC SPI by the company Orafti. In particular, the hydrophobic modified polysaccharide is a lauryl carbamate-grafted inulin, in particular derived from the reaction of lauryl isocyanate with an inulin, in particular from chicory. By way of example of these compounds, mention may in particular be made of the product sold under the name INUTEC SPI by the company Orafti 40. It is considered that the viscosity is significantly reduced in the sense of the present application when the variation in viscosity between the composition without polysaccharide and the composition with polysaccharide is at least 5%.

  The hydrophobic treated polysaccharide, in particular inulin, is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight. 20 Circe phase

  The composition according to the invention comprises at least one internal fatty phase comprising an oily phase.

  According to a particular embodiment, the internal fatty phase is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight.

  By oily phase is meant all the oils present in the composition.

  The oily phase may comprise at least one oil chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and their mixture.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil. By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg) at ambient temperature ( 25 C).

  These non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

  The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

  Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot 40, castor oil, shea butter avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, cassis, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,

  synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

  linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R, 000R2 in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R, + R2soit10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to O15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate , isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate 2-octyl-dodecyl, heptanoates, o alkanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,

  at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

  higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 atoms. carbon, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two different nonvolatile oils.

  More preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two different nonvolatile oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varied from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, of avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, cassis, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and their mixture.

  In particular, the nonvolatile oil (s) may be chosen from triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, jojoba oil and their mixture as described above.

  The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one volatile oil.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm). Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

  The volatile oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, volatile fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils.

  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

  The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permethyls.

  Volatile silicones can also be used as volatile oils, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 5 centistokes (5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 10 atoms. silicon, preferably from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

  The volatile fluorinated oil does not usually have a flash point. As fluorinated volatile oil, mention may be made of nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

  The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from from 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight.

  The oily phase of the composition according to the invention is present in a total content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight. Structuring agent The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase chosen from waxes; pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

  Waxes The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, and better still from 4 to 9% by weight.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), with a reversible solid / liquid state change. , in particular having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C., in particular greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and up to 250 ° C., in particular up to 230 ° C., and in particular up to 120 ° C. carrying the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by restoring the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained in the oils of the mixture . The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 C per minute. The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. By way of illustration and not limitation of these waxes, mention may be made in particular of: - beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and concretes glycerides at 40 C and especially at more than 45 C, 40 - the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, especially hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, silicone waxes or fluorinated waxes, and their mixtures according to a particular variant of the invention the wax may be chosen from carnauba waxes, microcrystalline waxes and mixtures thereof. 7 50 Paste fat 40

  Pasty fatty substance is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound containing, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Said pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

  The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder. 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample at a pre-speed of 1 mm / sec and then at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C., preferably represents 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

  The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state present at 23 ° C. consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. . The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 90 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 C on the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

  Paste bodies are generally hydrocarbon compounds such as lanolines and their derivatives or PDMSs. Semi-crystalline polymers

  By polymer is meant compounds having at least two units, preferably at least 3 units and especially at least 10 repeating units. By "semicrystalline polymer" is meant polymers having a crystallizable portion, a crystallizable pendant chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone, and an amorphous portion in the backbone and having a first order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymeric backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence; the semi-crystalline polymer is in this case a copolymer

  sequenced, for example, of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. By "sequence" is generally meant at least 5 identical repetition patterns. The crystallizable sequence (s) are then of a different chemical nature from the amorphous sequence (s). The semi-crystalline polymer has a higher melting point or

  equal to 30 ° C. (in particular ranging from 30 ° C. to 80 ° C.), preferably ranging from 30 ° C. to 60 ° C. This melting temperature is a first order change of state temperature. This melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.).

  Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) to which the invention applies have a number average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1000. Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) of the composition of the invention. have a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, more preferably from 4,000 to 150,000, especially less than 100,000, and more preferably from 4,000 to 99,000.

  Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass greater than 5,600, ranging for example from 5,700 to 99,000. By "crystallizable chain or block" is meant in the sense of the invention a chain or sequence which, if it were only one would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether one is above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable pendant chain" can be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. The semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof. Such polymers are described for example in the document EP 1396259. According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain selected from saturated C14 to C14 alkyl (meth) acrylates. C22.

  As a particular example of a semi-crystalline structuring polymer that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer products from Landec, described in the "Intelimer polymers" brochure, Landec IP22. These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.).

Lipophilic gelling agents

  The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as that, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to mention the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface with a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are

  called Silica silylate according to the CTFA (h edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530 by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R972 references, and Aerosil R974 by the DEGUSSA company, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 by CABOT.

  The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C and Trefil E- 506C by DOWCORNING, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 and JK 113 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (R) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular ethylene diamine / dilinoleate copolymers stearyl such as that marketed under the name Uniclear 100 VG by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in the documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680, for example those sold under the reference Dow Corning 2- 8179 and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant by the company Dow Corning; galactomanans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C 1 -C 6 alkyl chains, and in particular C, to C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type, such as than those sold under the name Kraton by the company Shell Chemical Co. or else the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

  The structuring agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase can in particular constitute the external phase of the composition according to the invention.

  The composition according to the invention comprises water. The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

  The composition according to the invention, and in particular the aqueous phase, may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at ambient temperature - C), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol. isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; , and their mixtures.

  The liquid fraction of the aqueous phase comprises in particular water and organic solvents miscible with water.

  The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.

  Preferably, the aqueous phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, and preferably ranging from 20% to 55% by weight.

Hydrophilic gelling agent

  The composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent with a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

  The hydrophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from: homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8 by CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES, polymethacrylate of sodium sold under the name DARVAN N 7 by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company HENKEL, the polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of PEMULEN type, 11

  AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid partly neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLARIANT, AMPS / acrylamide copolymers SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type sold by the company SEPPIC, and polyoxyethylenated amps / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or not), proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat protein, soy protein; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives; acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, locust bean gum; alginates and carrageenans (the alginates being preferably used in the presence of salts such as calcium chloride); glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulphate, unmodified clays and especially montmorillonites, hectorites, smectites, bentones, laponites, and mixtures thereof.

  Some of these water-soluble gelling agents may also act as film-forming polymers.

  In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two hydrophilic gelling agents chosen from unmodified clays and in particular montmorillonites, hectorites, smectites, bentones, laponites, cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose and gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, locust bean gum.

  According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of xanthan gum and smectite.

Emulsifying system

  The compositions according to the invention may comprise emulsifying surfactants.

  According to the invention, an emulsifier suitably chosen for obtaining an oil-in-water emulsion is generally used. In particular, an emulsifier can be used

  possessing at 25 C an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN, greater than or equal to 8. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

  These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants or surfactant emulsifiers. See Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: a) nonionic surfactants with a HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made in particular of: fatty alcohols, especially of C8-C24 alcohol, and preferably C12-C18 alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8-C24 and preferably of C12-C18 alcohols), such as oxyethylenated ether of oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (CTFA name "Steareth-20") such as BRIJ 78 marketed by UNIQUEMA, oxyethylenated ether of cetyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C 12 -C 15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7" sold under the name NEODOL 25-7 by Shell Chemicals, fatty acid esters (in particular of C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22) acid and polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the MYRJ 52P by the company ICI UNIQUEMA, the ester s of fatty acid (especially C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which can contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT S sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT O sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT glycerol cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product VARIONIC LI 13 sold by the company SHEREX, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT L sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT company and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT 1 from GOLDSCHMIDT, the fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, acid esters). ) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which can contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene groups), such as polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60 by the company UNIQU EMA, dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220 by the company Dow Corning, dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101 and 201 from the company FINTEX), copolymers of propylene oxide and oxide of ethylene, also called

  EO / PO polycondensates, and mixtures thereof. The EO / PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure: H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) (O-CH (CH 3) -CH 2) b- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) OH, in which a is from 2 to 120 and b is from 1 to 100. The polycondensate OE / OP preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000, and better from 2000 to 13000. Advantageously, said polycondensate OE / OP has a cloud temperature at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 ° C., preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C. The cloud temperature is measured according to ISO 1065. As polycondensate OE / OP that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the names SYNPERONIC such as SYNPERONIC PE / L44 and SYNPERONIC PE / F127 by the company ICI.

  b) nonionic surfactants with a HLB of less than 8 to 25 ° C., optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with a HLB of greater than 8 to 25 ° C., as mentioned above, such as: esters and ethers of dies such as sucrose stearates, sucrose cocoates, sorbitan stearates and mixtures thereof, and in particular those sold under the name Arlatone 2121 by the company ICI or SPAN 65V from the company Uniquema; esters of fatty acids (in particular of C8-C24, and preferably of C16-C22) and of polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, for instance those sold under the name TEGIN M by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, the mixture of glycerol mono- and distearate sold under the name of "Géléol" by the company "GATTEFOSSE", the glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312 by the company NULS, the polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers such as the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-2"), such as BRIJ 72 marketed by UNIQUEMA; the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C by the company Dow Corning,

  c) Anionic surfactants such as: salts of C16-C30 fatty acids, especially those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate; Salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, especially those derived from amines or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof; phosphoric esters and their salts such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N 10N from CRODA) or monocotyl monopotassium phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan or ARLATONE MAP 160K from UNIQUEMA); Sulfosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate"; alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate; isethionates; acylglutamates such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT 50 HS-21 R sold by the company Ajinomoto) and mixtures thereof. As representative of cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of: alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulphate, ammonium salts such as N, N, N-trimethylaluminium chloride; 1-docosanaminium 5 (Behentrimonium chloride).

  The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and cocoamphodiacetate dissodique and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide or even silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates, such as the product sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100 by the company Phoenix Chemical.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two different surfactants. In particular, the preferred surfactants may be chosen from nonionic surfactants with a HLB of less than 8 to 25 C.

  According to a more preferred embodiment, the surfactants may be chosen from esters of fatty acids (in particular of C8-C24, and preferably of C16-C22) and of polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, for example those sold under the name TEGIN M by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, the mixture of glycerol mono- and distearate and potassium stearate, for example those sold under the name TEGIN PELLETS by the company GOLDSCHMIDT the mixture of glycerol mono- and distearate sold under the name "Gelele" by the company "Gattefosse", glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312 by the company NULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate;

  According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise a mixture of glycerol mono- and distearate and potassium stearate.

  The emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. . Powdery phase

  The composition according to the invention may comprise a pulverulent phase in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight.

  The pulverulent phase may comprise pigments, fillers and / or nacres.

  By pigments, it is necessary to understand particles; mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.

  The pigments may be inorganic or organic pigments. As pigments, metal oxides such as iron oxides (especially yellow, red, brown, black), titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide,

  chrome; manganese violet, blue ultramarine, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. It is preferable to use pigments of iron oxides or of titanium dioxide.

  The pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the organic phase of the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amines; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The alkyl term mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 atoms. of carbon. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.

  The pigments are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight.

  In addition to the pigments, the composition according to the invention may comprise fillers and / or nacres.

  By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

  The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders (nylon ()), poly-R-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, polymethyl methacrylates, polyurethane powders such as the copolymer powder of hexamethylene diisocyanate and of trimethylol hexyl lactone sold under the names PLASTIC POWDER D-400 by TOSHIKI, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, nitrile of boron, copolymers of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, copolymers of acrylic acid, silicone resin powders, in particular silsesquioxane powders (silicone resin powders, in particular described in patent EP 293795, Toshiba's Tospearls, by for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, s glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; barium sulphate and their mixtures.

  The fillers may be present in each of the compositions according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight. weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight.

  In addition to the pigments and fillers, the particulate phase of the invention may comprise nacres. By nacres, it is necessary to include iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the medium of the composition.

  The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

  The nacres may be present in each of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight. and preferably ranging from 2% to 10% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydro or liposoluble dye

  Fat-soluble dyes include generally organic compounds soluble in fats such as oils. By water-soluble dyes are meant water-soluble, generally organic compounds or water-miscible solvents.

  Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D & C Red n 17, D & C Green n 6, 6-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D & C Yellow n 11, D & C Violet n 2, D & C Orange No. 5, yellow quinoline, annatto, bromoacids. The synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins 40 (enocianin, carrot black, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

Lecithin

  The composition according to the invention may comprise a non-hydrogenated lecithin. This is generally obtained by lipid extraction using apolar solvents from vegetable or animal fats. This lipid fraction usually comprises, mainly, glycerophospholipids, including phosphatidylcholine. Animal or plant sources that can be used to extract non-hydrogenated lecithins are, for example, soybean, sunflower or eggs. The glycerophospholipids included, in high proportion, in these lecithins are mainly phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamine.

  Non-hydrogenated lecithins suitable for the implementation of the present invention may be lecithins derived from soybean, sunflower, egg and / or mixtures thereof. Lecithins are usually supplied in dissolved form in fatty acids, triglycerides or other solvents, or in the form of powders or loaves.

  It is usually mixtures of lecithins, whose glycerophospholipid content in products as marketed, generally ranges from about at least 15% to at least about 95%. Among the non-hydrogenated lecithins that may be suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of the lecithins sold under the references NATTERMANN PHOSPHOLIPID, PHOSPHOLIPON 80 and PHOSALE 75 by the company AMERICAN LECITHIN COMPANY, EPIKURON 145V, TOPCITHIN 300, EMULMETIK 930 and OVOTHIN 200 marketed by the company LUCAS MEYER. The non-hydrogenated lecithin may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better from 0.1 to 1% by weight.

  Expanded composition The compositions according to the invention may, according to a preferred embodiment, be swollen. The expanded compositions according to the invention are stably formed in the form of foam using a base composition and air or an inert gas.

  The air or the inert gas may represent in particular from 10 to 500% of the volume of the non-expanded composition, preferably from 30 to 200%, more preferably from 35 to 150% and better still from 40 to 140%. This volume can be calculated by comparing the density of the base composition and the expanded composition.

  This volume corresponds to the rate of expansion of the composition (or rate of gas introduced into the composition), and can in particular be calculated by the following formula: Flotation rate = more than foam time × 100 of foam In a nonlimiting manner, this rate of expansion may especially be measured on an already expanded composition according to the following protocol: The expanded composition is introduced into a 100 ml beaker, so as to occupy the total volume and avoiding when filling the bucket the formation of air bubbles. The mixture is allowed to stand for 10 minutes and then the volume VI corresponding to the volume of the expanded composition is noted. A turbine is introduced and the beaker and the turbine are placed under a vacuum bell. The vacuum is activated and the blade of the turbine is placed under slow stirring (500 rpm) for 10 minutes. The vacuum is removed and the volume V 2 corresponding to the volume of the unsupported base composition is recorded.

  The expansion rate is then calculated by the following formula: Flotation rate = V 'V2 × 100 V2 In addition to air, the gases making it possible to obtain the expanded composition are in particular inert gases, for example nitrogen, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides, noble gases, or a mixture of said gases. When the composition comprises a compound that is sensitive to oxidation, it is preferable to use an oxygen-free gas such as nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

  The base composition for obtaining the expanded composition has a composition similar to the expanded composition except for its higher density as it is free of air or inert gas. The amount of gas introduced into the base composition helps to adjust the density of the expanded composition to the desired value.

  The expanded composition of the invention may have a density of less than 0.95 g / cm 3. The expanded composition of the invention advantageously has a density ranging from 0.2 to 0.9 g / cm 3 and preferably from 0.3 to 0.8 g / cm 3, this density being measured at a temperature of approximately 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure according to the following protocol.

  The test is carried out on a volume of 25 ml composition introduced into a 25 ml polished plexiglass cup (V,) defining a cylindrical filling space with a height of 15 mm and a base diameter of 46 mm. The bucket has a bottom wall 10 mm thick and a side wall 12 mm thick.

  Prior to measurement, the composition to be characterized and the bucket are maintained at a temperature of about 20 C. The bucket is calibrated and the weight value read (M,). The expanded composition is then introduced into the cup so as to occupy the total volume and avoiding when filling the bucket the formation of air bubbles. The whole is left standing for 24 hours at room temperature. The top of the bucket is then leveled before weighing (M2). The density is evaluated according to the convention p = (M2-M1) / 25.

  The expanded composition according to the invention has a satisfactory stability which can be calculated by measuring a volume of foam (V2) remaining in the bucket after one month at 45 C according to the protocol described above for the measurement of the density.

  The ratio V2 / V1 corresponds to the ratio between the volume of the expanded composition after one month at 45 ° C. and the volume of the expanded composition after 24 hours at room temperature. The expression "satisfactory stability" applies in particular to expanded compositions having a Vz ratio greater than 0.85, especially greater than 0.90, for example greater than 0.95.

  For a given composition composition weight, the volume of the expanded composition is inversely proportional to the density of the expanded composition. Thus, the ratio between the density of the swollen composition measured after 24 hours and the density of the swollen composition measured after one month at 45 ° C. may be greater than 0.85, especially greater than 0.90. for example greater than 0.95.

  Additional cosmetic ingredients 19

  The composition may also comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually used in cosmetics such as, for example, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters and / or perfumes.

  Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the envisaged addition.

  The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a make-up product, in particular a foundation, a concealer product, a body make-up product or even in the form of a care product. for the face or a body care product.

  The invention is illustrated in more detail in the examples below. Examples:

  A foundation was prepared before the following composition: Composition 1 (% by weight) Phase Al Deionized water Qs 100 Preservatives 0.5 Phase A2 Purified smectite 0.38 Xanthan gum 0.13 Hydrophobic modified inulin 0.2 Phase A3 Titanium dioxide 8.01 Iron oxide yellow 1.19 Iron oxide red 0.57 Iron oxide black 0.23 Deionized water 5.00 Glycerin 5.00 Phase B Caprylic and capric acid triglycerides (60/40) 10.00 Liquid Jojoba Wax 10.00 Mixture of Sorbitan Mono- and Distearate 2.00 Mixture of Sorbitan Mono / Distearate Potassium Stearate 3.00 Preservatives 0.15 Phase C Deionized Water 1.00 Preservative 0.25 20 Procedure:

  The constituents of the Al phase were weighed by heating at a temperature of 75 ° C. under Moritz agitation at 600 rpm for 20 minutes. The components of the A2 phase were mixed, then A2 was added to Al. Separately, the components of the A3 phase were weighed and milled to the tri-roll and milled until a homogeneous dispersion of the components was obtained. fine particles, about 3pm in size. A3 was added to the Al + A2 mixture with Moritz stirring at 800 rpm, maintaining the temperature at 65 ° C for 20 minutes. The constituents of phase B were weighed by heating at a temperature of 75 ° C. with stirring at the magnetic bar. . B was added to Al + A2 + A3 with 1700 rpm Moritz stirring for 15 minutes. The components of phase C were weighed and then C was added to the mixture B + A1 + A2 + A3 with stirring at 700 rpm for 5 minutes.

  A second hydrophobic-modified inulin composition having the following composition was prepared: Composition 2 (wt%) Al phase Deionized water Qs 100 Preservatives 0.5 Phase A2 Purified smectite 0.38 Xanthan gum 0.13 Phase A3 Titanium dioxide 8.01 Yellow iron oxide 1.19 Red iron oxides 0.57 Black iron oxide 0.23 Deionized water 5.00 Glycerine 5.00 Phase B Caprylic and capric acid triglycerides (60/40) 10.00 Liquid jojoba wax 10.00 Mixture of mono and sorbitan distearate 2.00 Mixture of sorbitan mono / distearate 3.00 potassium stearate Preservatives 0.15 Phase C Deionized water 1.00 Preservative 0.25 21 15

  Composition 2 is prepared according to the same procedure as composition 1.

  The viscosities of the two compositions were measured after storage for 24 hours at 20 ° C. on a Rheomat RM180 apparatus with the following adjustments: Measuring system: 75 Shear rate: 200 seconds. 32.4 mm diameter cup Measurements are carried out at t (0), then at t (10 min), that is to say after ten minutes of shear, in a bath thermostated at 20 C. A result expressed in units is obtained. deviation, converted into poise by tables supplied with the device. The following results are obtained. Composition 1 with Inulin Composition 2 without hydrophilic modified hydrophobic modified inulin Viscosity without shear 16,6 poises (+ 1- 0,5 poise) 25,7 poises (+ 1- 0,5 poise) preliminary Viscosity after 10 minutes of 10,9 poises (+ 1- 0.5 poise) 17.7 poise (+ 1- 0.5 poise) shearing Composition 1 was then made abundantly using a Kenwood Chef KM 300 electric mixer with a power of 650 Watts with a capacity of 6.8 liters, including 5 liters useful.

  300 g of base composition are introduced into the bowl and the mixture is boiled at room temperature for 20 minutes. 87% of expansion rate is obtained.

  A stable foam composition is obtained for 1 month at 45 ° C.

Claims (27)

claims   Cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an internal fatty phase and an external aqueous phase comprising at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, said internal fatty phase being present in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight.   2. Cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, and at least one wax in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   3. Cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, and at least two hydrophilic gelling agents with a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   4. Cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, and a pulverulent phase in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   5. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that it has an internal fatty phase in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight.   6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 5, characterized in that the internal fatty phase is present in a content ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight.   7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 6, characterized in that it comprises at least one wax in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   8. Composition according to any one of claims 2 or 7, characterized in that the wax is present in a content ranging from 2 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 4 to 9%. in weight.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 1, 2 and 4, characterized in that it comprises at least two hydrophilic gelling agents in a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   10. Composition according to any one of claims 3 and 9, characterized in that the gelling agent of the aqueous phase is chosen from homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters, the acid copolymers acrylic and acrylamide, polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, AMPS / acrylamide copolymers, and polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise), proteins of vegetable origin or of animal origin; cellulose polymers; acrylic polymers or copolymers, vinyl polymers; polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, such as gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, locust bean gum; alginates and carrageenans, glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; muccopolysaccharides, unmodified clays and especially montmorillonites, hectorites, smectites, bentones, laponites, and mixtures thereof   11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the gelling agents of the aqueous phase are chosen from unmodified clays and in particular montmorillonites, hectorites, smectites, bentones, laponites; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives; and gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, locust bean gum.   12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the two gelling agents are xanthan gum and smectite.   13. Composition according to any one of claims 3 or 9 to 12, characterized in that the gelling agents are present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 0.1% to 10%, or even 0.1% to 10% by weight.   14. Composition according to any one of claims 3 and 5, characterized in that it comprises a pulverulent phase in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   15. Composition according to any one of claims 4 or 14, characterized in that the pulverulent phase is present in a content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the inulin is obtained from chicory.   17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic chains are linear or branched hydrocarbon chains, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, alkylene groups. ; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide functional groups, such as especially methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.   18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the inulin has a degree of polymerization of 2 to about 1000 and preferably of 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a fructose unit.   19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic chains have at least one alkyl carbamate group of formula R-NH-CO- in which R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.   20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups. 20   21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the inulin is present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight.   22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a non-hydrogenated lecithin.   23. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-hydrogenated lecithins are lecithins derived from soybean, sunflower, egg and / or mixtures thereof.   24. Composition according to any one of claims 22 or 23, characterized in that the non-hydrogenated lecithin is present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight.   25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of expanded foam.   26. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is stable for 1 month at 45 C.   27. A process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials comprising applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26.