FR2912653A1 - Use of laudanosine or its analogs separately or in combination with an agent used in cosmetics to e.g. prepare topical cosmetic composition, and eliminate and/or reduce or treat clinical signs of skin aging e.g. wrinkles or lines - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of laudanosine (I) or its analogs or a plant extract (II) separately or in combination with at least other agent used in cosmetics for the preparation of a topical cosmetic composition. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Respiratory-Gen; Antiinflammatory. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Muscarinic receptor ligand; Nicotinic receptor ligand; Gamma amino butyric acid A receptor ligand; Gamma amino butyric acid B receptor ligand.

Description

DESCRIPTION The present invention relates to the field of cosmetology

  and relates to the cosmetic and topical use of laudanosine for the preparation of a cosmetic composition intended to improve the general condition of the skin. Our silhouette and our skin are the first images we offer to others. Their appearance has always been a matter of concern. 1 0 The desire to maintain or regain a youthful appearance has transformed the fight against skin aging into an economic issue, resulting in an active search for new compounds that are increasingly effective in this fight against the signs of time. Deeping wrinkles, sagging skin, a body in loss of firmness, puffy areas, these are the signs of skin aging, which everyone hopes to escape. 1 5 There are now various products that can fill wrinkles and restore volume to certain areas of the face. These include collagen and hyaluronic acid. Nevertheless, these products require a restrictive application made by a Practitioner, often accompanied by local anesthesia and side effects (inflammatory reactions). In addition, this artificially added biological material rapidly undergoes enzymatic degradation inducing cycles of injections at increasingly close frequencies. Another solution is based on the use of botox or botulinum toxin. This toxin injected into the facial muscles paralyzes them and leads to attenuation of facial wrinkles. In particular, botox is effective in reducing wrinkles, forehead wrinkles, crow's feet and wrinkling wrinkles. However, the essential disadvantages of botox remain its toxicity, as well as its surgical application, painful and expensive. In addition, clearing congested areas such as bags under the eyes is a wish that everyone aspires to. Thus, the technical problem to be solved was for the inventors to find a cosmetically acceptable product for topical application to the skin intended to improve the general condition of the skin. More particularly, the inventors have sought a technical solution to fight against both wrinkles, creasing skin, but also against the inconvenience related to the retention of water in the tissues. We have unexpectedly and surprisingly discovered that laudanosine, applied topically to the skin, has remarkable cosmetic properties, in particular to improve the general condition of the skin.

  Laudanosine is a molecule derived from Argemone grandiflora and Papaver somniferum belonging to the family Papaveraceae. Papaver somniferum is a herbaceous plant found in Europe, North Africa, Black Africa, Australia, Japan, South America and North America that is grown as part of the production of morphine for Pharmaceutical industry.

  Laudanosine is an alkaloid. The document FR2221133 also describes a pharmaceutical composition for the treatment of proliferative skin diseases comprising laudanosine as active product.

  To the inventors' knowledge, no document of the state of the art describes the cosmetic activity of laudanosine.

  Thus, the main object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of laudanosine or one of its analogues or a plant extract containing, alone or in combination, with at least one other commonly used active ingredient. in cosmetics for the preparation of a cosmetic composition intended for topical application. The invention relates more particularly to the use of laudanosine or one of its analogues or a plant extract containing it to improve the general condition of the skin. By the terms to improve the general condition of the skin is meant to regulate prophylactically and / or therapeutically the condition of the skin. According to the invention, prophylactically regulating the condition of the skin includes delaying, minimizing or preventing skin aging that can be detected visually or by touch. According to the invention, therapeutically regulating the condition of the skin includes improving, diminishing, minimizing, erasing skin imperfections that can be detected visually or by touch. According to the invention, improving the general condition of the skin also includes improving and beautifying any part of the body subjected to the skin aging process and the problem of water retention. Also, according to a first aspect, laudanosine has botox-like properties. In the context of the present invention, the term "botox-like" refers to the properties of laudanosine to act as a ligand for muscarinic and / or nicotinic receptors, and / or Gaba A and / or Gaba B. This ligand is involved. at the level of the neuromuscular junction, more particularly at the level of the nerve-muscle contraction. It is also involved in the regulation of adhesion and cellular mobility, particularly in the mobility and interactions of keratinocyteocytes and in fibroblast-extracellular matrix interactions. Thus, this ligand interferes with the ability of neuronal and non-neuronal cells to respond to stimulations of neurotransmitters. The consequence of the botox-like effect on the skin is a lifting effect, by its action on myorelaxation and the relaxation of the muscles it decreases expression lines.

  Nicotinic receptors are primarily cholinergic (ACh) receptors that are part of the receptor-channel family. The nicotinic receptor consists of 5 transmembrane protein subunits. The nicotinic receptor of the urnomuscular junction is one of the best known receptors; its protein subunits are of 4 different types (alpha, beta, delta, gamma). Central receptors consist only of alpha and beta subunits. When acetylcholine, or nicotine, binds to the receptor, the latter changes in conformation, which opens the ion channel and allows sodium to enter the cell, causing depolarization of the membrane. The muscarinic receptor is a metabotropic receptor that binds released acetylcholine to the extracellular medium, and activates adenylate cyclase, increasing the intracellular concentration of cyclic AMP, and phospholipase C (PLC), causing an increase in intracellular calcium concentration. These two second messengers activate several metabolic pathways, which can activate ion channels and influence the membrane potential. The GABA-A receptor is part of the family of ion channel receptors. It consists of a transmembrane glycoprotein composed of 4 subunits, alpha, beta, gamma and delta. The binding of GABA on its recognition site causes the opening of a chlorine (Cl-) channel, which, allowing the Cl- ions to pass, produces the hyperpolarization of the target cell. The GABA-B receptors are receptors metabotropic to the GABA neurotransmitter. Activation of presynaptic GABA-B receptors moderates the release of GABA and various other mediators. Activation of postsynaptic GABA-B receptors modulates the opening of potassium channels, resulting in intracellular potassium release and hence membrane hyperpolarization. Their role in physiology and pathology is poorly known but their stimulation results in skeletal muscle relaxation by inhibition of monosynaptic and polysynaptic reflex transmission in the spinal cord.

  In other words, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of laudanosine or one of its analogues or a plant extract containing it in that laudanosine or its analogs are intended to act as ligands of muscarinic and / or nicotinic receptors, and / or Gaba A and / or Gaba B. More particularly, the invention relates to the use of laudanosine or one of its analogues or a plant extract containing it. , in that they are intended to eliminate and / or reduce the clinical signs of skin aging such as wrinkles, deep and coarse wrinkles, fine lines, cracks, b loosening of cutaneous and subcutaneous tissues, the loss of cutaneous elasticity and atony, loss of firmness and tone, dermal atrophy.

  Thus, one of the advantages of the present invention is that it makes it possible to reduce the depth of wrinkles and to prevent aging of the skin caused by repeated facial movements. The prevention and / or treatment of the signs of skin aging are functional characteristics that can be analyzed, measured and quantified using numerous techniques known to the cosmetic treatment specialist. Thus, the wrinkles and fine lines are quantifiable in particular by analyzing their silicone impressions 1 5 by the technique of shadows (camera acquisition then image analysis), they are also quantifiable thanks to the technique of projection of fringes, or using the Canfield Visia. According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to the remarkable properties of laudanosine against inconvenience related to water retention. Thus, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of laudanosine or one of its analogues or a plant extract containing it in that they are able to activate the mobilization of water in the skin tissue. In the context of the present invention, it is meant to activate the mobilization of water in the skin tissue drainage and the removal of water accumulated in this tissue. In particular, laudanosine helps to reinvigorate the movements of the infiltrated water in any part of the body and more particularly to reduce the sensations of heavy legs. It also makes it possible to remedy a deficient drainage thanks to its properties which are both decongestant and anti-oedematous. The congested areas of the face are deflated, the features are less marked, the traces of fatigue clearly erased. The mobilization of water in the skin tissue is a functional feature that can be analyzed, measured and quantified using an impedance measurement technique with Delfin Moisturmeter-D.

  Thus, according to another subject, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of laudanosine or of one of its analogues or of a plant extract containing it in that they are intended for slimming, decongestant and anti-aging action. oedemateuse, and / or to block and / or to decrease the water retention in cellulite. According to another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of laudanosine or one of its analogues or a plant extract containing it in that they are intended to combat the sensation of heavy legs. In the context of the present invention, laudanosine is understood to mean: laudanosine, its optical isomers, stereoisomers, enantiomers as well as their racemic mixture, diastereoisomers, tautomers; in their free form, or in the form of a salt with a physiologically acceptable acid, laudanosine analogues such as Benzyl Tetrahydroquinoline, Higenamine, Norlaudanosoline, Laudanosoline, Tretoquinol, Trimetoquinol, Luxandrine, Coclaurine, Machiline, Sanjoinine K, Nororientaline, Karakoramine, Reticulin, Coclanoline, Codamine, Orientaline, Dehassiline, Nymphaedeline, Lotusine, Tembetarin, Colletine, Isococlaurine, Norcanelillin, Norprotosinomenin, Roefractin, Canelillin, Protosinomenin, Pseudolaurin, Magnocurarin, Pseudorinen Xylopinidinen, Norarmepavine, Noranicanin, Armepavine, Evoeuropine, Anicanin, Laudanine, Laudanidine, Tritopine , Vietnamine, Aristoquinoline C, Aristoquinoline A, B, Zanoxyline, Thalifendlerine, Thalifendlerine, Veronamine, Latericine, Norcinnamolaurin, Argenaxine, Cinnamolaurin, Doiryafranine, Romn eine, Ledecorin, Marshaline, Corydalisol, Canadaline, Aobamine, Canadinic acid, Dihydroleptopine, Coryximine, Phyllocryptine, Escholinine, Crassifoline, Isotembetarin, Norjuziphine, Magnococline, Norgorchacoine, Juziphine, Gorchacoine, Gortschakoine, Oblongine, Petalin, Anomoline, Annonelliptin, Milthantine, Narcotolinol, Longifolidine, Bonzakalin, Anomuricin, Anomurine, Macrantaline , Macrantaldehyde, Macrantoridine, Neotrilobine, protopapaverine, papaverine, in their free form, or in the form of a salt, as well as their glycosylated, esterified forms, etherified by the OH function and their N-oxide forms . By glycosylated is meant according to the present invention at least one ose or dioxide derivative grafted by covalent bonds to said analogs. By dermatologically acceptable medium is meant according to the present invention without being limiting: an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles. Dermatologically acceptable means that the described compositions or compounds are suitable for use in contact with mammalian and more particularly human skin without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like. All terms such as aging of the skin, signs of skin aging, topical application, and others, are used in the sense in which they are in general and widely used in the art of developing, testing, and marketing cosmetics and care products. The term "cosmetic composition" or, more briefly, "composition" in the sense of the present invention, relates to a formulation that can be used for cosmetic purposes, for hygienic purposes, or as a base for dispensing one or more pharmaceutical ingredients. It is also possible that these formulations are used for two or more of these purposes at a time. A medical anti-dandruff shampoo, for example, has pharmacological properties and is used as a personal care product to bring healthy hair. To obtain the effects described in this patent, laudanosine and its analogues usable in cosmetic compositions can be obtained from any source of supply, in particular by means of chemical hemi-synthesis, chemical synthesis, enzymatic by one of the many methodologies of biotechnology, by plant extraction, in particular from Argemone grandiflora as well as Papaver somn iferum (papaveraceae) or by any other usable means allowing it to be obtained at reasonable costs in the finished product to be used industrially. According to a preferred mode laudanosine will be obtained by chemical hemi synthesis or chemical synthesis. In the case of a plant origin, it is obvious that any plant species may be suitable from the moment when the extract, obtained from any part of the plant organism, contains laudanosine or its analogues. . The plant extraction can be made by the usual techniques, for example by phenolic extraction, from any part of the plant such as the seed, the fruit, the root, the tuber, the leaf, the pericarp and preferably the rhizome. The extraction solvents may be selected from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, PEG-6 Caprylic / capric glycerides, polyethylene glycol, methyl and / or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents. Moreover, it is possible to make plant extracts of the present invention by other methods such as, for example, maceration, simple decoction, leaching, extraction under reflux, supercritical extraction, extraction with by means of ultrasound or microwaves or finally by means of countercurrent techniques, without this list being limiting. The amount of laudanosine in the composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent and will preferably be between 0.00001 and 50%, preferably between 0.00001% and 20%, and more preferably between 0.0001% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In the context of the present invention, the plant extract containing laudanosine is present in an amount of between 0.00001 and 50%, preferably between 0.00001% and 20%, and more preferentially between 0.0001%. and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The preparations according to the present invention include, without limitation, the media for dermatological use, including topical and transdermal application of active ingredients. These preparations may be in the form of gels, patches, creams, nasal spray, ointments or ointments, lotions, emulsions, colloids, solutions, suspensions, powders, and others. Certain compositions of the present invention may also provide additional benefits, including stability, lack of significant (non-consumer acceptable) skin irritation, anti-inflammatory activity, and good aesthetics. All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at 25 C unless otherwise specified. In known manner, it is possible to incorporate in the composition of the present invention, products already known to have an activity in the field of anti-wrinkles. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further contain at least one complementary active agent chosen from vitamins, phytosterols, flavonoids, DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone and / or a precursor or a chemical or biological derivative. , a metalloproteinase inhibitor, a retinoid. According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention may also contain at least one product already known to have activity in the field of slimming agents such as xanthine bases (caffeine, theobromine, aminophylline, theophylline, xanthine). . Another embodiment of the invention is to combine laudanosine with at least one other product known for its botox-like activity. Thus, by way of indication and without limitation, laudanosine may be combined with the commercial name Argireline of acetyl hexapeptide-3 marketed by Lipotec and / or with spilanthol or an extract of Acmella oleracea known as Gatuline. Expression (EP 1722864), and / or with an extract of Boswellia serrata known under the name Boswellin, and / or with Deepaline PVB marketed by Seppic, and / or with Syn-AKE from Pentapharm, or with Ameliox or with Bioxilifift sold by Silab. I.Additives In the context of the present invention, the dermatologically acceptable medium may be an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles. The compositions according to the invention may include other varied and additional ingredients, conventional or otherwise. Of course the decision to include an ingredient and the choice of a specific active ingredient and additional ingredients depends on the specific application and formulation of the product. The dividing line between an "active" ingredient and an "additional" ingredient is therefore artificial and depends on the specific application and the type of product. A substance that is an "active" ingredient in one application or product may be an "additional" or "functional" ingredient in another, and vice versa The compositions of the present invention may include one or more additional active ingredients various conventional and non-conventional ingredients which will bring a certain advantage to the purpose of the application of the composition.These active ingredients may include one or more substances such as, but not limited to, cleaning agents, hair care agents, skin care, styling agent, anti-dandruff agent, hair regrowth agent, perfumes, screens and sunscreens, pigments, moisturizers, film-forming agents, hair dyes, makeups, detergents, pharmaceutical agents, thickeners, emulsifiers, humectants , emollients, antiseptic agents, deodorant active agents and surfactants, propellants, etc. In a preferred combination, for which the composition When in contact with human keratinous tissues, the additional ingredients are suitable for application to keratinous tissues, that is, once incorporated into the composition, they are suitable for use in contact with human keratin tissue (hair, nails, skin, lips) without inducing toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and so on as part of a medical assessment. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Tenth Edition (2004) describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skincare industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in compositions. according to the present invention. Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredient classes include: healing agents, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-atrophy, moisturizing, softening, antibacterial, antiparasitic, antifungal, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, pruriginous, anesthetic agents , anti-viral, keratolytic, anti-free radical, anti-seborrhoeic, anti-dandruff, agents modulating differentiation, proliferation or skin pigmentation, penetration enhancers, desquamating agents, depigmenting or propigmenting agents, anti-dandruff agents, glycation, firming agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle relaxants, anti-inflammatory agents, pollution and / or anti-radicals, agents thinning Anti-cellulite agents, microcirculatory agents, cell metabolism agents, cleansing agents, hair styling agents, hair growth stimulants, sunscreens, total screens , makeup agents, detergents, pharmaceuticals, emulsifiers, emollients (ie C12-C15 alkyl benzoate), antiseptic agents, deodorant active agents, dermatologically acceptable media, surfactants, abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as perfumes, pigments, natural dyes, dyes and dyes, oils essential agents, touching agents, cosmetic astringents, anti-acne agents, anticoagulants, anti-foam agents, antioxidants, leagants, biological additives, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors, inducers enzymes, coenzymes, plant extracts and plant derivatives, ceramides, peptides, buffers, volume agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, dyes, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, medicinal astringents, external analgesics, film-forming agents, such as polymers, to exacerbate the film-forming properties and the substantivity of the composition, the quaternary derivatives, substantivity enhancing agents, opacifying agents, pH adjusters and regulators (e.g. triethanolamine), propellants, reducing agents, sequestering agents, bleaching and / or skin lightening agents, skin conditioners (ie, humectants, including miscellaneaous and occlusive agents), soothing and / or healing agents treating the skin, thickeners (ie stearic acid), vitamins and their derivatives, wetting agents, peeling agents, calming agents, curatives of the skin, lignans, preservatives (iephoxyethanol and parabens) , anti-UV agents, cytotoxic agents, anti-neoplastic agents, viscosity modifiers, non-volatile solvents, pearling agents, antiperspirant agents, depilatories, vaccine, scented water, skin restructuring agent (ie Siegesbeckia orientalis extract) , emollients (eg C12-15 alkyl benzoate), excipients, fillers, ores, anti-mycobacterial agents, anti-allergenic agents, antihistamines H1 or H2, anti-irritants, immune system stimulating agents, immune system inhibiting agents, insect repellents, lubricants, dyes, hypopigmenting agents, preservatives, light stabilizers, and mixtures thereof. Such additional ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of: amino sugars, glucosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, vitamin B3 and its derivatives, niacinamide, dehydro-sodium acetate, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phytosterols, salicylic acid compounds, hexamidines, dialkanoyl hydroxyproline compounds, extracts and soy derivatives, equol, isoflavones, flavonoids, phytantriol, farnesol, geraniol, bisabolol, peptides and their derivatives, di -, tri -, tetra -, penta -, and hexapeptides and their derivatives, lys - thr - thr - lys - ser, palmitoyl - lys - thr -thr-lys-ser, carnosine, amino acid compounds N acyl, retinoids, retinyl propionate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinal, retinoic acid, water-soluble vitamins, ascorbates, vitamin C, ascorbyl glucoside, palmitate ascorbyl, magnesium ascorbyl p hosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamins and their salts and derivatives, provitamins and their salts and derivatives, ethyl panthenol, vitamin B and its derivatives, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, vitamin K and its derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives, pantothenyl ethyl ether, panthenol and its derivatives, ethyl panthenol, dexpanthenol, biotin, amino acids and their salts and derivatives, water-soluble amino acids, asparagine, alanine, indol, glutamic acid, insoluble vitamins in water, vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin D and its compounds, mono-, di-, and triterpenoids, beta-ionol, cedrol, and their derivatives, water-insoluble amino acids, tyrosine, tryptamine, particulate materials, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, allantoin, tocopherol nicotinate, tocopherol, tocopherol esters, palmitoyl-gly-his-lys, phytosterol, hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, lactic acid, lac acid tobionic, ketoacids, pyruvic acid, phytic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, stilbenes, cinnamates, resveratrol, kinetin, zeatin, dimethylaminoethanol, natural peptides, soy peptides, acidic salts, manganese gluconate, zinc gluconate, piroctone, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, triclocarban, zinc pyrithione, hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, pyridoxine, aloe vera, terpene alcohols, allantoin, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate , glycerol acid, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, pyrrolidone and its salts, dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, tartaraldehyde, clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus essence, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate, eicosene copolymer and vinyl pyrrolidone, iodopropyl butylcarbamate, a polysaccharide, an essential fatty acid, a salicylate, a glycyrrhetin acid Carotenoids, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, a complex lipid, oils generally of natural origin such as shea butter, apricot oil, evening primrose oil, of prune, palm oil, mano oil, hydroquinone, HEPES, procysteine, O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, disodium salt of methyl glycine diacetic acid, steroids such as diosgenin and derivatives of DHEA, DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone and / or a chemical or biological precursor or derivative, N-ethylcarbonyl-4-para-aminophenol, bilberry extracts, phytohormones, Saccharomyces yeast extracts cerevisiae, extracts of algae, extracts of soya, lupine, corn and / or peas, alverine and its salts, in particular alverine citrate, extracts of holly and chestnuts and combinations thereof, a metalloproteinase inhibitor.

  Other skin and hair care active ingredients that are particularly useful in combination with the composition can be found in the commercial documentation of SEDERMA SAS and on the website www.sederma.fr. In any combination of the present invention, however, the additional ingredients may be categorized according to the benefit they provide or their intended mode of action. Be that as it may, it must be understood that the additional ingredients useful here can sometimes bring more than one benefit or operate according to more than one mode of action. Therefore the presented classifications are made by convenience and are not intended to limit the additional ingredients to a particular application or listed applications. 1) Sugar Amines (Amino Sugars) The compositions of the present invention may include a sugar amine, which is also known as an amino sugar. The sugar amine compounds useful in the present invention may include those described in WO 02/076423 and in US Pat. No. 6,159,485. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.01% to 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, and preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the amine of the present invention. sugar relative to the weight of the composition. The sugar amines can be of synthetic or natural origin and can be used as pure compounds or mixtures of compounds (e.g. extracted from natural sources or mixtures of synthetic materials). For example, glucosamine is generally found in many shellfish and may also be of fungal origin. In the context of the present invention, the "sugar amine" includes the isomers, their tautomers and their salts (eg, HCl salt) and is marketed by Sigma Chemical Co. Examples of usable sugar amines in the context of the present invention, include glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, their isomers (e.g., stereoisomers), and their salts. (for example, HC1 salt). Glucosamine and N-acetyl glucosamine, particularly N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, are preferred in the context of the present invention. 2) DHEA The compositions of the present invention may comprise DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone and / or a chemical or biological precursor or derivative. The term precursors of DHEA refers to the biological precursors of said DHEA that are likely to transform into DHEA during metabolism, as well as its precursor chemicals that can be converted into DHEA by exogenous chemical reaction. By way of non-limiting examples, examples of biological precursors include? 5-pregnenolone, 17-hydroxy pregnenolone, and 17? -Hydroxy pregnenolone sulfate. Also, by way of non-limiting examples, sapogenins or their derivatives, such as diosgenin (or spirost-5-en-3-beta-ol), hecogenin, sodium acetate, and the like may be mentioned as chemical precursors. hecogenin, smilagenin and sarsasapogenin, as well as natural extracts containing it, especially fenugreek and Dioscorea extracts such as wild yam root or Wild Yam.

  The term derivatives of DHEA includes both its biological derivatives and its chemical derivatives. As biological derivatives, mention may be made in particular of Δ5-androstene-3,17-diol and Δ4-androstene-3,17-dione. By way of non-limiting examples, mention may in particular be made, as chemical derivatives, of DHEA salts, in particular water-soluble salts, such as DHEA sulphate. We may also mention the esters, such as the esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and of DHEA described in particular in US-5,736,537 or the other esters such as salicylate, acetate, valerate (or nheptanoate) and enanthate of DHEA. Mention may also be made of DHEA derivatives (DHEA carbamates, DHEA 2-hydroxy malonate esters and DHEA amino acid esters) described in FR 00/03846 in the name of the Applicant Company. This list is obviously not limiting. 3) Metalloproteinase Inhibitor The term metalloproteinase inhibitor refers to any molecule and / or plant or bacterial extract exhibiting inhibitory activity on at least one of the metalloproteinases expressed and synthesized by and in the skin. The article by Y. HEROUY et al., European Journal of Dermatology, No. 3, vol. 10, April-May 2000 describes metalloproteinases (pp. 173-180). The family of metalloproteinases is formed of several well-defined groups based on their similarities in structure and substrate specificity (Woessner J.F., Faseb Journal, vol.5,1991, 2145). Among these groups, there are collagenases intended to degrade fibrillar collagens (MMP-1 or interstitial collagenase, MMP-8 or neutrophil collagenase, MMP-13 or collagenase 3, MMP-18 or collagenase 4), gelatinases which degrade type IV collagen or any form of denatured collagen (MMP -2 or gelatinase A (72 kDa), MMP-9 or gelatinase B (92 kDa)), stromelysins (MMP-3 or stromelysin 1, MMP or stromelysin 2, MMP Or stromelysin 3) whose broad spectrum of activity is directed to extracellular matrix proteins such as glycoproteins (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans, etc., matrilysin (MMP-7), metalloelastase (MMP-7), 12) or the membrane metalloproteinases (MMP-14, MMP-15, MMP-16 and MMP-17). Metalloproteinases (MMPs) are metal-mediated, mostly coordinated 3-residue cysteine zinc and methionine in their active site, which degrade the macromolecular components of the extracellular matrix and basal pH neutral slides (collagen, elastin, etc ...) .. This group of enzymes is inactivated by metal chelators.

  The main regulators of MMP activity are tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases or TIMPs (Tissues Inhibitors of Metalloproteinases) such as TIMP-1, TIMP-2, TIMP-3 and TIMP-4 (Woessner J.F., Faseb Journal, 1991). Moreover, the expression of MMPs is also regulated by growth factors, cytokines, oncogenic products (ras, jun) or matrix constituents. The term "metalloproteinase inhibitor" according to the present invention defines any molecule capable of reducing the activity of MMPs at the level of gene expression (transcription and translation), or at the level of activation of the zymogenic form of MMPs, or still at the level of local control of active forms. In addition, metalloproteinase inhibitors according to the present invention may also be naturally occurring or synthetic MMP-1 inhibitors. The terms "natural origin" and "synthetic origin" both define a metalloproteinase inhibitor in pure form or in solution at different concentrations, but the naturally occurring inhibitors are obtained from different methods of extracting a compound. element of natural origin (for example lycopene) whereas the inhibitors of synthetic origin are obtained by chemical synthesis. 4) Vitamin B3 Compounds The compositions of the present invention may contain a healthy and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound. Vitamin B3 compounds are particularly used to regulate the condition of the skin as described in US Pat. No. 5,939,082. When in the compositions of the present invention, the vitamin B3 compounds are present at a concentration of about 0.001% to 50%, preferably about 0.001% to 20%, more preferably about 0%. , From 5% to 10%, and more preferably from approximately 0.1% to 7%, still preferably from approximately 0.5% to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In the context of the present invention, the "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula: where R = -CONH 2 (i.e., niacinamide), -COOH (i.e. d., nicotinic acid) or -CHOH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); their derivatives and salts. Examples of vitamin B3 derivatives include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid (e.g., tocopheryl nicotinate, myristyl nicotinate), nicotinyl amino acids, esters, and the like. carboxylic acids of nicotinic alcohol, N-oxide of nicotinic acid and N-oxide of niacinamide.

  Suitable nicotinic acid esters include nicotinic esters of alcohols C 1 -C 22, preferably C 1 -C 16, more preferably C 1 -C 6. Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol niconitate and inositol hexanicotinate, with tocopherol niconitate being preferred.

  Other vitamin B3 derivatives are niacinamide derivatives resulting from the substitution of one or more amide group hydrogens. Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid (C8H8N2O3) and N-hydroxy-nicotinamide (C6H6N2O2). Examples of nicotinyl alcohol esters include carboxylic esters of nicotinic alcohol, salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid and the like. Other nonlimiting examples of compounds of vitamin B3 that may be used in the context of the present invention are: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, nmethyl-nicotinamide, n, n-diethylnicotinamide, n (hydroxymethyl) -nicotinamide quinolinic acid amide, nicotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methyl isonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 1- (3-pyridylmethyl) urea, mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, and niaprazine. Examples of suitable vitamin B3 compounds are well known and are commercially available from many suppliers, for example, Sigma Chemical Company; ICN Biomedicals, Inc. and Aldrich Chemical Company. In the context of the present invention one or more vitamin B3 compounds may be used. The preferred compounds of vitamin B3 are tocopherol niconitate and niacinamide, the latter being preferred. When used, salts, derivatives and derivatives of niacinamide salts preferably have the same efficacy as niacinamide. The salts of vitamin B3 can be used in the context of the present invention. By way of non-limiting examples, mention may be made of: organic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic species (eg chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and organic salts (including the salts of mono-, di- and tricarboxylic acid C1-C18, eg acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferably salts of monocarboxylic acid such as acetate). These and other salts of vitamin B3 can be readily prepared by those skilled in the art ("The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-Iosascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide", J. Organic Chemistry, Vol 14 22-26 (1949)). Vitamin B3 compounds can be included as essentially pure material, or as a naturally occurring extract (eg, plants) obtained by a suitable physical and / or chemical isolation technique. The compound is preferably very pure, more preferably almost completely pure. 5) Dehydroacetic acid (DHA) The compositions of the present invention may contain acideéhydroacétique, having the following structure: CH3 or its pharmaceutically acceptable salts, its derivatives or tautomers. The technical name of dehydroacetic acid is 3Acetyl-6-methyl-2H-pyran-2,4 (3H) -dione and marketed by Lonza. Pharmaceutically acceptable salts include alkali metal salts, such as sodium and potassium, alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium and magnesium, non-toxic heavy metal salts, ammonium and trialkylammonium salts such as trimethylammonium and triethylammonium. The sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts of dehydroacetic acid are preferred. Particularly preferred is sodium dehydroacetate which can be purchased from Tri-K as Tristat SDHA. Derivatives of dehydroacetic acid include, but are not limited to, those compounds in which the CH 3 groups are replaced individually or collectively by amides, esters, amino groups, alkyls, and alcohol esters. The tautomers of dehydroacetic acid can be described as having the chemical formula C8H8O4 and in general the chemical structure disclosed previously. According to one particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from 0.001% to 25%, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably from 0.05% to 5%, and still more preferably from 0.1% to 1%, hydroacetic acid or its salts, derivatives or tautomers. 6) Phytosterol The compositions of the present invention may comprise a phytosterol. For example, one or more phytosterols may be selected from the group consisting of: 13-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, A5-avennasterol, lupenol, a-spinasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, analogs and combinations. Preferably, phytosterol is selected from the group consisting of 13-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives and combinations thereof. More preferably, phytosterol is stigmasterol. The phystosterols may be of synthetic or natural origin, used as essentially pure compounds or a mixture of compounds (e.g., naturally occurring extracts). Phytosterols are found in the unsaponifiable fraction of vegetable oils and fats, they are available in the form of free sterols, acetyl derivatives, sterol esters, ethoxylated or glycosidic derivatives. Preferably, phytosterols are free sterols. In the context of the present invention the term "phytosterol" also includes their isomers and tautomers and may be commercially available from Aldrich Chemical Company, Sigma Chemical Company, and Cognis. According to one particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 25%, preferably from 0.001% to 15%, preferentially from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1%. at 5%, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% of phytosterol per weight of the composition. 7) Salicylic Acid Compound The compositions of the present invention may comprise a salicylic acid compound, its esters, salts or combinations thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 25%, preferably from 0.001% to 15%, preferentially from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably from 0, 1% to 5%, and even more preferably 0.2% to 2%, of salicylic acid, by weight of the composition. 8) Hexamidine The compositions of the present invention may comprise a hexamidine compound, its salts and derivatives. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 25%, preferably from 0.001% to 10%, preferentially from 0.01% to 5%, and more preferably from 0.02%. % to 2.5% hexamidine by weight of the composition. In the context of the present invention, the term "hexamidine" also encompasses the isomers and tautomers of hexamidine compounds including, without limitation, organic and inorganic acids, for example sulphonic acid, carboxylic acid, etc. Preferably, hexamidine compounds include diisethionate hexamidine, commercially available as Eleastab HP100 from Serobiological Laboratories. 9) Dialanoylhydroxyproline Structure Compounds The compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more diacylated hydroxyproline compounds, their salts and derivatives. According to one particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% of hydroxyproline compounds. diacylated, by weight of the composition. The derivatives which may be used in the context of the present invention include, but are not limited to, esters, for example fatty esters such as, inter alia, tripalmitoylhydroxyproline and dipalmitoylacetylhydroxyproline. A particularly preferred compound is dipalmitoylhydroxyproline. In the context of the present invention, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline also includes all tautomers and isomers, and may be commercially available as Sepilift DPHP from Seppic, Inc. Further details regarding dipalmitoylhydroxyproline are disclosed in 23028. Preferably, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline is the triethanolamine salt of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline. 10) Flavonoids The compositions according to the present invention may contain a flavonoid compound. Flavonoids are widely described in US Patents 5,686,082 and 5,686,367. In the context of the present invention, flavonoids are understood to mean unsubstituted flavonoids, substituted flavonoids (mono-substituted, and / or di substituted, and / or tri-substituted). As examples, which can be used in the present invention there may be mentioned one or more flavones, one or more flavanones, one or more isoflavones, one or more coumarins, one or more chromons, one or more dicoumarols, one or more chromanones, one or more chromanols, their isomers (ie cis / trans isomers); and their mixtures. Flavones and isoflavones, especially daidzein (7,4'-dihydroxyisoflavone), genistein (5,7,4'-trihydroxyisoflavone), equol (7,4'-dihydroxy) are preferred in the context of the present invention. isoflavan), 5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxy isoflavone, soy isoflavones (a mixture of soybean extract), and other natural sources of such mixtures (eg red clover) and mixtures thereof. Also preferred are flavanones such as hesperitin, hesperidin, and mixtures thereof. Flavonoids useful in the present invention are commercially available from numerous suppliers such as Indofine Chemical Company, Inc., Steraloids, Inc., and Aldrich Chemical Company, Inc. Flavonoids useful in the the present invention is commercially available under the name Sterocare proposed by SEDERMA (WO 99/18927). According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.1% to 10%, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% of flavonoid, by weight of the composition. 11) N-acyl amino acid structure compounds The topical compositions of the present invention may contain one or more Nacyl amino acid compounds. This amino acid can be one of those known to those skilled in the art. The N-acylamino compounds of the present invention may correspond to the formula wherein R may be hydrogen, alkyl (substituted or unsubstituted, branched or linear), or a combination of alkyl and aromatic groups. Preferably, the amino acid N-acyl is chosen from the group comprising: N-acyl phenylalanine, N-acyl Tyrosine, their isomers, salts and derivatives. The amino acid may be the D or L isomer or a mixture thereof. Within the broad class of derivatives of N-acyl Phenylalanine is particularly preferred N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine available under the trade name Sepiwhite from SEPPIC. According to one particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 25%, preferentially from 0.001% to 10%, more preferably from 0.01% to 5%, and still more preferably from 0, 02% to 2.5% N-acyl amino acid, by weight of the composition. 12) Retinoids The compositions of this invention can contain a healthy and effective amount of retinoid, so that the resulting composition is healthy and effective in regulating the state of the keratinocyte tissue, preferably to regulate visible and / or tactile discontinuities. in the skin (for example, regulating the signs of aging of the skin). The compositions preferably contain between 0.0001% and 10%, preferably between 0.005% and 2%, more preferably between 0.01% and 1%, even more preferentially between 0.01% and 0.5% retinol (in particular weight relative to the weight of the composition). The optimum concentration in the composition will depend on the specificity of the selected retinoid which can vary considerably from one compound to another. By "retinoid" is meant all natural and / or synthetic vitamin A analogues or retinol-like compounds which possess the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin, as well as the isomers and geometric stereoisomers thereof. compounds. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2-C22 alkyl retinol esters, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and / or or retinoic acid (including all-trans retinoic acid and / or 13-cis-retinoic acid), or mixtures thereof. Preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well known and are available commercially, for example from Sigma Chemical Company and Boerhinger Mannheim. Other retinoids usable in the present application are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,677,120, 4,885,311, 5,049,584, 5,124,356 and Us 34,075. Other suitable retinoids are the tocopheryl-retinoate [retinoic acid (trans or cis -) tocopheryl ester, adapalene {6- [3- (1-adamantyl) -4-methoxyphenyl] -2-naphthoic acid}, and tazarotene (ethyl 6- [2- (4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl) -ethynyl] nicotinate). Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. Retinyl propionate is preferred at a concentration of preferably between 0.1% and 0.3%.

  The retinoid can be included as essentially pure material, or obtained by appropriate physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources (eg plants). The compound is preferably very pure, more preferably almost completely pure. 13) Peptides The compositions of the present invention may comprise peptides, including, but not limited to, di, tri, tetra-, penta- and hexapeptides and derivatives thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of the additional peptide in the composition varies between 1 × 10 -7% and 20%, preferably between 1 × 10 -6% and 10%, preferably between 1 × 10 -5% and 5%, by weight. . In the context of the present invention, the term "peptide" denotes peptides containing 10 or less amino acids, their derivatives, isomers and complexes with other species such as a metal ion (eg copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and others). The term "peptides" refers to both natural peptides and synthetic peptides. It also refers to compositions which contain peptides and which are found in nature, and / or which are commercially available. Non-limiting examples of dipeptides useful in the context of the present invention include: Carnosine (beta-Ala-His), Tyr-Arg, Val-Trp (WO 0164178), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe. Non-limiting examples of tripeptides include: Arg-Lys-Arg (Peptide CK), His-Gly-Gly, Gly-His-Lys, Gly-Gly-His, Gly-His-Gy, Lys-Phe-Lys. Non-limiting examples of tetrapeptides are: Peptide E, Arg-Ser-Arg-Lys, Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Non-limiting examples of pentapeptides: Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser. Nonlimiting examples of hexapeptides: Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and those described in patents Fr 2854897 and US 2004/0120918. Other peptides that may be used in the context of the present invention may be chosen from, without this list being limitative: lipophilic derivatives of peptides, preferably palmitoyl derivatives, and complexes with the metal ions mentioned above (eg copper complex tripeptide His-Gly-Gly). Preferred dipeptides include, for example: N-Palmitoyl-beta-Ala-His, N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexadecyl ester (CALMOSENSINETM from SEDERMA, France, WO 9807744, US 6,372,717). Preferred tripeptides include: N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Lys-His, (Pal-GKH in SEDERMA, France, WO 0040611), the copper derivative of His-Gly-Gly \ endu under the name LaminTM in Sigma, lipospondin ( N-Elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys) and its conservative substitution analogues, NAcetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH2 (Peptide CK +), NBiot-Gly-His-Lys (N-Biot-GHK in SEDERMA, WO 0058347) and their derivatives. Tetrapeptide derivatives useful in the context of the present invention include, but are not limited to, N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (from SEDERMA), useful pentapeptide derivatives are, but are not limited to: N-Palmitoyl Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (available under the name MATRIXYL ™ in SEDERMA, WO 0015188 and US 6,620,419) N-Palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-X with X being Met or Leu or their mixture . Useful hexapeptide derivatives include, but are not limited to: N-Palmitoyl-Val Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and derivatives. The preferred commercially available compositions containing a

  tripeptide or derivative include: SEDERMA Biopeptide-CLTM (WO 0143701), SEDERMA MaxilipTM (WO 0143701), SEDERMA BiobustylTM.  Preferred commercially available tetrapeptide sources include RIGINTM (WO 0043417), EYELISSTM (WO 03068141), MATRIXYLTM RELOADED, and MATRIXYL 3000TM, which contains between 50 and 500 ppm palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. and an excipient proposed by SEDERMA (US 2004/0132667).  14) Ascorbate and Other Vitamins The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more vitamins, such as ascorbates (e.g. boy Wut. vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate).  Examples of such vitamins are, without this list being limiting, vitamin K and its derivatives, vitamin H, vitamin D and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and provitamines such as panthenol, and mixtures thereof. .  These compounds may be incorporated as substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by an appropriate physical and / or chemical isolation technique from a natural source (e.g.  boy Wut.  , plants).  According to one embodiment, when the vitamins are present in the composition, their concentration varies between 0.0001% and 50%, preferably between 0.001% and 10%, preferably between 0.01% and 8%, and even more preferentially. between 0.1% and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  15) Particulate Material The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more particulate materials.  Examples of particulate materials useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, colorless and color pigments, interference pigments, inorganic and organic powders, composite powders, optical brightening particles, and combinations thereof. .  These particulate materials may, for example have a wafer shape, a spherical shape, elongate or needle, an irregular shape, be surface-treated or not, be porous or non-porous, charged or not, and added to the present composition under powder form or pre-dispersion.  According to one embodiment, when the particulate materials are present in the composition, their concentration varies between 0.01% and 20%, preferably between 0.05% and 10%, and preferably between 0.1% and 5%. %, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  There are no specific limitations on pigments, dyes, and powders.  The particulate materials used in the present application include: bismuth oxychloride, sericite, iron oxide, mica, barium sulphate treated mica and TiO2 and other materials, zeolite, kaolin, silica, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine, nylon, polyethylene, talc, styrene, polypropylene, polystyrene, acrylic acid / ethylene copolymer, aluminum oxide, silicone resin, barium sulfate, sodium carbonate calcium, cellulose acetate, titanium dioxide, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, starch, modified starches such as starch and aluminum octenylsuccinate, silk, glass, and mixtures thereof.  The powders / fillers include, without this list being limited, the polymeric particles selected from methylsilsesquioxane resin microspheres such as, for example, those sold by Toshiba Silicone under the name Tospearl 145A, polymethylmethacrylate microspheres such as those sold by Seppic under the name Micropearl M 100, crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane spherical particles, especially those sold by Dow Corning Toray Silicone under the name Trefil E 506C or Trefil E 505C, spherical particles of polyamide and particularly of nylon 12, in particular those sold by Atochem under the name Orgasol 2002D Nat CO5, polystyrene microspheres such as those sold by Dyno Particis under the trade name Dynospheres, the ethylene acrylate copolymer sold by Kobo under the name FloBead EA209, PTFE, polypropylene, starch octenylsuccinate and aluminum such as those sold by National Starch under the name Dry Ho, polyethylene microspheres such as those sold by Equistar under the name Microthene FN510-00, silicone resin, polymethylsilsesquioxane silicone polymers, elongated powder made of lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.  It is also possible to use interference pigments.  The most common examples of interference pigments are micas coated with films of about 50 to 300 nm of TiO 2, Fe 2 O 3, silica, stannic oxide, and / or Cr 2 O 3.  Useful interference pigments are commercially available from many suppliers, for example, Rona (TimironTM and DichronaTM), Presperse (FlonacTM), Englehard (DuochromeTM), Kobo (SK-45-R and SK-45-G) , BASF (Sicopearls) and Eckart (e. boy Wut.  Prestige Silk Red).  Other pigments useful in the context of the present invention can provide colors primarily by selective absorption of specific wavelengths of visible light, and include organic, inorganic pigments and combinations thereof.  Examples of such inorganic pigments useful in the context of the present invention include iron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, and chromium oxide.  Organic dyes may include natural dyes and monomeric dyes and synthetic polymers.  An example is the blue and green phthalocyanine dye.  Also useful are lacquers, FD & C or D & C primary lacquers and mixtures thereof.  In addition, encapsulated soluble or insoluble dyes and other dyes are useful.  Inorganic white and unstained pigments usable in the context of the present invention, for example TiO2, ZnO, or ZrO2, are commercially available.  An example of usable particulate material contains the material provided by U. S.  Cosmetics (TRONOX TiO2 soot, SAT-T CR837, a rutile TiO2) Another example is OPTISOL, offered by Oxonica.  The pigments / powders can, in the context of the present invention, be treated to provide additional stability to the color and / or to facilitate the formulation.  Non-limiting examples of coating materials include silicones, lecithin, amino acids, metal soaps, polyethylene and collagen.  These surface treatments may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic, the latter being preferred.  16) Screen Active Agents and Sunscreens The compositions of the present invention may contain a sunscreen active.  Such an asset 10 includes sunscreens and sunscreens.  Usable sunscreens can be organic or inorganic.  A wide variety of conventional organic and inorganic sunscreens can be used in the context of the present invention.  According to one embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of a sunscreen active.  The exact amount varies depending on the sunscreen chosen and the desired sun protection factor (SPF).  As examples of organic screening agents that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, mention may be made hereinafter of their CTFA name: para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives: PABA, Ethyl PABA , Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "UVINUL P25" by BASF, - salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name "EUSOLEX HMS" by RONAIEM INDUSTRIES, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS HAARMANN and REIMER, Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name DIPSAL 25 SCHER, TEA Salicylate sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by HAARMANN and REIMER, the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789, by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, 30 - cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name "PARSOL MCX" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE Isopropyl Methoxy Cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy Cinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate, 5-Derivatives of? ? '-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF, by derivatives of benzophenone: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "UVINUL 400" by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone - 6 sold under the trade name HELISORB 11 by NORQUAY, Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "SPECTRA-SORB UV-24" by AMERICAN CYANAMID, Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name "UVINUL DS-49" by BASF, Benzophenone Benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-Benzylidene camphor, 1-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, Terephthic Acid dibenzylidene sulphonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, phenyl benzimidazole derivatives: phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, Benzimidazilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN AP by HAARMANN and REIMER, derivatives of triazine: Anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by CIBA GEIGY, Ethylhexy triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL T150 by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V, derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole : Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatriazole by Rhodia Chimie, Anthranilic derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer, Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Benzalmalonate derivatives: Polyorganosiloxane to function benzalmalonate sold under the trade name PARSOL SLX by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, and mixtures thereof.  - others: derivatives of dihydroxycinnamic acid (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone); trihydroxy-cinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and glucosides, esculin and daphnin); hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid and 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid); dihydroxynaphthoic acid and its salts; o- and p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenyl benzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, various aryl benzothiazoles); quinine salts (bisulphate, sulphate, chloride, oleate, and tannate); quinoline derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline, 2-phenylquinoline salts); uric and violuric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (e. boy Wut. hexaethyl ether); (butyl carbotol) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether; hydroquinone.  The more particularly preferred organic UV filters are chosen from the following compounds: ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, Benzimidazilate, Anisotriazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Methylenebis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.  Also preferred are the compositions described in US Pat.  6,190,645 and in particular the solar screen active sold under the name INCROQUAT-UV-283 by Croda, Inc.  The inorganic filters that may be used in the composition according to the invention are, in particular, nanopigments (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of metal oxides coated or not for example nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium.  Coating agents are, moreover, alumina and / or aluminum stearate.  Such nanopigments metal dioxides, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent applications EP-A-0518772 and EP-A-0518773.  A preferred TiO2 / ZnO2 solar filter is OPTISOL, available from Oxonica. When present in the composition, the inorganic sunscreens are at a concentration of between 0.1% and 20%, preferably between 1% and 5% relative to the weight of the composition.  17) Anti-Cellulite Assets The compositions of the present invention may also contain a healthy and effective amount of anti-cellulite active ingredients.  Usable actives include, but are not limited to, xanthine compounds (e.g., caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, and aminophylline).  When present in the composition, the anti-cellulite active agents are at a concentration of between 0.0001% and 50%, preferably between 0.001% and 10%, preferably between 0.01% and 8%, and more preferably between 0.1% and 5% relative to the weight of the composition.  Particularly used are the combinations with anti cellulite and thinning agents called VexelTM (Fr 26054619), CoaxelTM (Fr 2694195), CyclolipaseTM (Fr 2733149), PleurimincylTM, LipocareTM (WO 98/43607), ReduliteTM , and UnislimTM (FR 0306063), proposed by SEDERMA.  18) Slimming, Toning or Draining Agents The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more lipolytic agents selected from: phosphodiesterase inhibitors (e.g.  boy Wut. , xanthine derivatives), alpha-2 blockers capable of blocking adipocyte-surface alpha-2 receptors, beta-adrenergic agonists and antagonists (e.g. boy Wut.  alverine or an organic or inorganic salt of alverine such as alverine citrate), compounds inhibiting the synthesis of LDL or VLDL receptors, inhibitors of fatty acid synthesis enzymes, such as acetyl CoA carboxylase or fatty acid synthetase or cerulenin, compounds stimulating beta receptors and / or G proteins, glucose transport blockers, such as serine or rutin, neuropeptide Y (NPY) antagonists capable of blocking NPY receptors on adipocyte surface, cAMP and cosmetically acceptable derivatives thereof, adenylate cyclase activating agents such as forskolin, fatty acid transport modifying agents, lipolytic peptides and lipolytic proteins, such as peptides or proteins such as peptides derived from parathyroid hormone, described in particular in patents FR 2788058 and FR 2781231.  Other examples of lipolytic agents that can be used in the context of the present invention include, but are not limited to, extracts of plant or marine origin: - among the plant extracts, mention may be made especially of: climbing ivy extract (Hedera Helix), Bupburum chinensis, Arnica (Arnica Montana L), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L), ginseng (Panax ginseng), ginko biloba, St. John's Wort (Hyperycum Perforatum), European Butcher's Eye (Ruscus aculeatus L), Ulmaria (Filipendula ulmaria L), Orthosiphon (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), Algae (Fucus Vesiculosus), Birch (Betula alba) ), cola nut (Cola Nipida), green tea, chestnut, bamboo, centella asiatica, heather, cb fucus, willow, pilosella, escin extracts, cangzhu extracts extracts of chrysanthellum indicum, extracts of plants of the genus Armeniacea, Atractylodis Platicodo n, Sinommenum, Pharbitidis, Flemingia, Coleus extracts such as C.  Forskohlii, C.  blumei, C.  esquirolii, C.  scutellaroides, C.  xanthantus and C.  Barbatus, such as Coleus Barbatus root extract, Ballote extracts, Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trema, Antirobia, Cécropia, Argan, Dioscorea extract diosgenin including Dioscorea opposita or mexican or villosa, - as extracts of marine origin include: extracts of algae or phytoplankton such as an extract of Laminaria digitata, rhodysterol.  The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one complementary active agent chosen from: active agents acting on the microcirculation (vasculoprotective or vasodilating agents) such as flavonoids, ruscogenins, natural or synthetic esculosides, escin, nicotinates , Heperidine methyl chalcone, holly, lavender or rosemary essential oils, extracts of Ammi visnaga; firming and / or anti-glycating active agents such as extracts of Cienella asiatica and Siegesbeckia, silicon, amadorine, ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, in particular resveratrol, plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, especially extracts of bilberry (Vaccinium angustifollium), vitamin C and its derivatives and retinol and its derivatives The composition may contain one or more of these extracts.  19) Butylated Hydroxybutylene (BHT) and Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) The compositions of the present invention may contain BHT or BHA.  According to one particular embodiment, the concentration of BHT and / or BHA in the composition varies between 0.0001% and 20%, preferably between 0.001% and 10%, preferably between 0.01% and 5%. and more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition.  20) Topical Anesthetics The compositions of the present invention may also contain a healthy and effective amount of topical anesthetics.  As examples of topical anesthetic drugs mention may be made of benzocaine, lidocaine, bupivacaine, chlorprocaine, dibucaine, etidocaine, mepivacaine, tetracaine, dyclonine, hexylcaine, procaine, cocaine, ketamine, pramoxine, phenol, and their dermatologically acceptable salts.  21) The desquamating active agents / keratolytic active ingredients The compositions of the present invention may contain a healthy and effective amount of a desquamating active agent of 0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 5%. preferably between 0.5% and 2%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition.  By way of non-limiting examples, mention may be made of 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid); 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid); 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyllactic acid); 2-hydroxybutanoic acid; 2-hydroxypentanoic acid; 2- hydroxyhexanoic acid; 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid; 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid; 2-hydroxynonanoic acid; 2-hydroxydecanoic acid; 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid; 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid (alpha-hydroxylauric acid); 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid (alpha-hydroxymyristic acid); 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid (alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid); 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid (alpha-hydroxystearic acid); 2- hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha-hydroxyarachidonic acid); 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzilic acid); 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyl lactic acid); 2-phenyl 2-methyl 2hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid); 2- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) 2-hydroxyethanoic acid; 2- (4'-chlorophenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid; 2- (3'-hydroxy-4'-methoxyphenyl) -2-hydroxyethanoic acid; 2- (4'-hydroxy-3'-methoxyphenyl) -2-hydroxyethanoic acid; 3 '- (2-hydroxyphenyl) -2-hydroxypropanoic acid; 3- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) -2-hydroxypropanoic acid; 2- (3', 4'-dihydroxyphenyl) and 2-hydroxyethanoic acid, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-nheptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and 2-hydroxy-3-methylbenzoic acid or their alkoxy derivatives, such as 2-hydroxy-3 -methyoxybenzoic acid.  Preferred keratolytic agents are selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, pyruvic acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, acid acetic acid, phenol, resorcinol, retinoic acid, adapalene, trichloroacetic acid, 5-fluoro uracil, azelaic acid.  The keratolytic agents are also salts, esters, trans or cis forms, racemic mixtures and / or the relative levorotatory or dextrorotatory forms of the compounds mentioned above.  Such substances can be used alone or in combination with one another.  Another keratolytic agent that can be used in the context of the present invention may comprise an enzymatic exfolient based on a protease proposed by Sederma under the trade name KeratolineTM. A desquamation system that may be used in the context of the present invention comprises salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants as described in US No.  5652228.  Another desquamation system suitable for the above use contains sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants as described in US 5. 681. 852.  Another suitable desquamation system within the scope of the present invention contains salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants as described in US Pat. 652.228.  The zwitterionic surfactants as described in these applications are also used as desquamating agents, preferentially cetyl betaine.  22) Anti-Acne active The compositions according to the present invention may contain one or more anti-acne active agents.  Examples of anti-acne active agents include resorcinol, sulfur, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin, zinc, dehydroacetic acid, and the like.  Other examples of usable anti-acne active agents are described in detail in the U. S.  5,607,980.  Combinations with the active anti-acne ac. net (sold by SEDERMA, WO03 / 028692) are particularly suitable.  According to one particular embodiment, the concentration of anti-acne compounds in the composition varies between 0.0001% and 50%, preferably between 0.001% and 10%, preferably between 0.01% and 8%. and more preferably between 0.1% and 5%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition.  23) Anti-wrinkle active anti-atrophy The compositions according to the present invention may further contain one or more anti-wrinkle / anti-atrophy active agents.  Among the examples of anti-wrinkle / anti-atrophy active agents that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, mention may be made of the sulfur-containing amino acids D and L, their salts and derivatives, preferably N-acetylated derivatives, particularly N acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols, for example ethane thiol; hydroxy acids (i. e. , alphahydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid or beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives such as octanoyl derivative, lactobionic acid), ketone acid (i. e.  pyruvic acid), phytic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), stilbenes, cinnamates, resveratrol, kinetin, zeatin, dimethylaminoethanol, natural peptides (i. e.  soya peptides), and salts of acidic oses (e. boy Wut. , Mn gluconate, Zn gluconate), lipoic acid; peeling (or desquamating) agents (i. e. phenol and others), vitamin B3 derivatives and retinoids, other vitamin B compounds (e. boy Wut.  thiamine (vitamin B 1), pentothenic acid (vitamin B5), riboflavin (vitamin B2), their derivatives and their salts (e. boy Wut.  1 0 HCL salts, or calcium salts).  Especially useful combinations are the combinations with the anti-wrinkle agents DermolectineTM and SterocareTM provided by SEDERMA, the latter being described in WO99 / 18927.  According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of anti-wrinkle / anti-atrophy compounds in the composition varies between 0.0001% and 50%, preferably between 0.001% and 10%, preferably between 0.01% and 8%. and more preferably between 0.1% and 5%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition.  24) Anti-Oxidant / Free Radical Scavenger Agents The compositions of the present invention may contain an antioxidant / free radical scavenger.  The compositions may contain from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5% of an antioxidant / free radical scavenger compound.  Antioxidants / radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, esters of ascorbyl fatty acids, derivatives of ascorbic acid (i. e. magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl sorbate), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters, butylated hydroxy benzoic acids and their salts, peroxides including peroxide hydrogen, perborate, thioglycolates, persulfate salts, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available as Trolox), gallic acid and its alkyls esters, especially propyl gallate, uric acid, its salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts; lipoic acid, amines (i. e. N, N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine), the sulfhydryl compounds (i.e. e. , glutathione), dihydroxy fumaric acid and its salts, lycine pidolate, amino acids, silymarin, lysine, 1 methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, olive extracts, tea extracts, polyphenols such as proanthocyanidin pine bark, carotenoids, curcumin compounds such as tetrahydrocurcumin, OCTA (L-2-oxo-4-thiazolidine carboxylic acid), glutathione, melanin, rosemary extracts, skin extracts / grape beans 3 5 to be used.  Preferably, the antioxidants / radical scavengers are chosen from tocopherol sorbate and the other tocopherol esters, more preferably tocopherol sorbate (Us.  4847071).  25) Moisturizing, Moisturizing and Conditioning Agents The compositions of the present invention may contain a healthy and effective amount of a conditioning active ingredient selected for example from humectants, moisturizers and skin conditioners.  A wide variety of these materials can be used.  In one embodiment, their concentration varies between 0.01% and 20%, preferably between 0.1% and 10%, and more preferably between 0.5% and 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  Such materials may include, but are not limited to, guanidine, urea, glycolic acid, ghzcolate salts (eg, ammonium and terta-alkylamine salts), salicylic acid, lactic acid, lactate salts (eg, ammonium and ammonium alkyl-quaternary), aloe vera in any form (e.g., aloe vera gel), polyhydroxy alcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, glycerol, hexanetriol, butanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and the like, polyethylene glycols, sugars (e.g., melibiose), starches, sugar and starch derivatives (e.g., glucose, fructose, hydroxyalkylated glucosamine), hyaluronic acid, lactamide monoethanolamine, acetamide, monoethanolamine, panthenol, allantoin, oil and their mixtures.  Also suitable are the propoxylated glycols described in US Pat.  4976953.  Also useful are C1-C30 monoesters and sugar polyesters and related materials.  These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol group and from one or more carboxylic acid groups.  Preferably, the conditioning agent is selected from urea, guanidine, sucrose polyester, panthenol, dexpanthenol, allantoin, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.  Wetting agents may be selected from the group of polyols, alkoxylated water-soluble nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof.  The polyhydric alcohols (polyols) usable in the context of the present invention include the polyhydroxy alcohols mentioned above, glycerin, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose, 1,2 hexane diol, dipropylene glycol, trehalose, diglycerin, maltitol, maltose, glucose, fructose, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium adenosine phosphate, sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.  The water-soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers that can be used include polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight of up to 1000 such as those having the CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, and their mixtures.  Active Oxygen Generation Inhibitors The compositions of the present invention may also contain a healthy and effective amount of an active oxygen generating inhibitor.  This may be selected from quercetin, rutin, taxifolin, kaempferol, myricetin, curcumin, resveratrol, arecoline, apigenine, wogonine, luteolin, tectorigenine, or mixtures thereof. .  This active oxygen inhibitor may be present in the composition between 0.001 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.01 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  27) Chelating agents The compositions according to the present invention may also contain a chelating agent or chelating agent.  In the context of the present invention, "chelating agent" or "chelating agent" means capable of trapping a metal ion of a system by forming a complex such that the metal ion can not easily participate or catalyze chemical reactions.  A healthy and effective amount of chelating agent may be added to the compositions according to the invention, preferably from 0.00001% to 10%, more preferably from 0.001% to 5%, relative to the weight of the composition.  Examples of chelants are given in US 5,487,884, WO 91/16035, and WO.  91/16034.  Examples of chelating agents include N-hydroxysuccinimide, EDTA, NTA, deferoxamine, hydroxamic acids and their salts, phytic acid, phytate, gluconic acid and its salts, transferrin, lactoferrin, furildioxime and their derivatives.  28) Anti-inflammatory active agents An anti-inflammatory agent can be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight based on weight. total of the composition.  The exact amount of anti-inflammatory agent to be employed in the compositions will depend on the particular anti-inflammatory agent used since the anti-inflammatory potential is unique to each.  Steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs may include, but are not limited to, corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone.  In addition, nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs may be useful in the context of the present invention.  This variety of compounds is widely known to those skilled in the art.  Specific non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents which can be used in the context of the present invention include, without this list being exhaustive, oxicams, such as piroxicam, salicylates, such as aspirin, acetic acid derivatives, such as felbinac. fenamates, such as etofenamate, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, flufenamic acid, propionic acid derivatives, such as ibuprofen, naproxen, pyrazoles, and mixtures thereof.  Mixtures of these nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs can be used, as can their dermatologically acceptable salts and esters.  In conclusion, the anti-inflammatory agents described as "natural" can be used in the present invention.  Such agents can be obtained as an extract using a suitable physical and / or chemical isolation technique from natural sources (e.g., plants, fungi, microorganism products). or can be synthetically prepared.  For example, candelilla wax, bisabolol (eg, alpha bisabolol), aloe vera, plant sterols (eg, phytosterol), Manjistha (extracted from Rubia plants) can be used. , especially Rubia Cordifolia), and Guggal (extracted from Commiphora-type plants, in particular Commiphora Mukul), clover violet, Kola, chamomile extract, piper methysticum extract (Kava KavaTM from SEDERMA, described in FR 2 771 002 and WO99 / 25369), Bacopa monieri extract (Bacocalmine SEDERMA, WO99 / 40897) and sea whip extract.  Additional inflammatory agents useful in the present invention also include allantoin, compounds of the licorice family (the genus / species Glycyrrhiza glabra plant), including glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and derivatives thereof. (for example, salts and esters).  Suitable salts of the prior compounds include metal and ammonium salts.  Suitable esters include unsaturated and saturated C2-C24, preferably C10-C24, more preferably C16-C24, esters.  As specific examples, mention may be made of oil-soluble licorice extract, glycyrrhizic and glycyrrhetic acids, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-beta-glycyrrhetic acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearyloxy-glycyrrhetinic acid, and 3-succinyloxy-beta-glycyrrhetinate disodium.  Stearyl glycyrrhetinate is preferred.  Other anti-inflammatories useful in the context of the present invention include diosgenol, saponins, sapogenins, lignans, triterpenes, saponosides and genins.  29) Bronzing actives The compositions of the present invention may contain a bronzing active agent.  In this case, the compositions contain approximately from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 2% to 7%, and more preferably from 3% to 6%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of tanning active.  Dihydroxyacetone, also known as DHA or 1,3-dihydroxy-2-propanone, is preferred.  Particularly useful are combinations with the tanning agents known as Tyr-251TM and Tyr-exelTM provided by SEDERMA and described respectively in FR 2,702,766 and WO03 / 017966 A2.  30) Whitening agents, lightening the skin The compositions according to the present invention may contain a skin lightening agent.  In this case, the compositions contain from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.02% to 30%, and in particular from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .  The lightening agents include those known to those skilled in the art, for example, kojic acid, arbutin, hydroquinone, aminophenol, N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-paraaminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol derivatives; iminophenol derivatives, L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine, and its salts and esters, tranexamic acid, ascorbic acid and its derivatives (i.e. e. , magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl glucoside and the like (i. e AA2G by Hayashibara)), and the excerpts (i. e. , blackberry extract, placenta extract, skullcap, broussonetia, soluble licorice oil (i. proposed by Maruzen), extracts of glycyrrhiza, camomile (i. e proposed by Kao)), m-Tranexamic acid / vitamin C ethyl (proposed by Shiseido), adenosine monophosphate disodium (APM proposed after Otsuka), ellagic acid (Lion), rucinol (Pola), ethyl ascorbyl ether).  Skin lightening agents useful in the present invention also include those described in WO 95/34280, PCT / US 95/07432; Us 08 / 390,152 and PCT / Us 95/23780.  Particularly useful are the combinations with the lightening agents called MelaclearTM EtiolineTM, MelaslowTM and LumiskinTM proposed by SEDERMA and described

  respectively in FR 2 732 215, WO 98/05299, WO 02/15871 and PCT / FR 03/02400. Other bleaching agents useful in the context of the present invention include Actiwhite (Cognis), Emblica (Rona), Azeloglicina (Sinerga), and Sepiwhite (Seppic). A preferred bleaching agent is ascorbyl glucoside. 31) Antimicrobial, Antibacterial, Antifungal Agents The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more antimicrobial or antifungal active agents. A healthy and effective amount of an antimicrobial or antifungal active agent may be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5%, and more preferably from 0.05% to 0.05%. % and 2% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Usable actives include coal tar, sulfur, Whitfield's ointment, Castellani's solution, aluminum chloride, gentian violet, octopirox (piroctone olamine), 3,4,4 '. trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan), triclocarban, ciclopirox olamine, undecylenic acid and its metal salts, potassium permanganate, selenium sulphide, sodium thiosulfate, propylene glycol, bitter orange oil, urea preparations, griseofulvin, 8-hydroxyquinoline ciloquinol, thiobendazole, thiocarbamates , haloprogin, polyenes, hydroxypyridone, morpholine, benzylamine, allylamines (such as terbinafine), tea tree oil, clove leaf essential oil, coriander, palmarose, berberine, red thyme, cinnamon essence, aldehyde cinnamic acid, citronellic acid, hinokitol, light ichthyol, Sensiva Sc-50, Elestab HP-100, azelaic acid, lyticase, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC), isothiazalinones such as octyl isothiazolinone and azoles, ain if only their combinations. Preferred antimicrobials include itraconazole, ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, and coal tar. In one embodiment, one or more antifungal or antimicrobial active is combined with an anti-dandal active agent selected from the polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione. a) Azoles Azole antimicrobials include imidazols such as benzimidazo1, benzothiazole, bifonazole, butoconazole nitrate, climbazole, clotrimazole, croconazole, eberconazole, econazole, elubiol, fenticonazole, fluconazole, flutimazole, isoconazole, ketoconazole, lanoconazole, metronidazole, miconazole, neticonazole, omoconazole, oxiconazole nitrate, sertaconazole, sulconazole nitrate, tioconazole, thiazole, and triazoles such as terconazole and itraconazole, as well as their combinations. When present in the composition, the azole antimicrobial active agent is at a concentration of between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 3%, and more preferably between 0.3% and 2%, by weight of the composition. Particularly preferred are ketoconazole and climbazole. b) Selenium Sulfide Selenium sulfide is a particulate anti-dandruff agent suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention, the effective concentrations of which range from 0.1% to 4%, by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% and 2.5%, preferably 0.5% to 1.5%. C) Sulfur Sulfur can also be employed as a particulate antimicrobial / anti-dandruff agent in the compositions of the present invention. Effective concentrations of the particulate sulfur are typically between 1% and 4%, by weight of the composition, preferably between 2% and 4%. d) Other Anti-Microbial Assets Additional antimicrobial active agents of the present invention may include one or more keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, tea tree extracts, and charcoal. The present invention may also include combinations of antimicrobial actives. Such combinations may include combinations of octopirox and zinc pyrithione, combinations of pine tar and sulfur, combinations of salicylic acid and zinc pyrithione, combinations of octopirox and climbasole, and combinations of salicylic acid and octopirox, so their mixtures. Preferred examples of the actives useful herein include those selected from benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, and the like. 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, phytic acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, benzoylperoxide, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, 1 acetominophen, resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, doctopirox, ciclopirox, laclidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, ketoconazole, neomycin sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Particularly suitable are combinations with the ingredient range called OSMOCIDETM provided by SEDERMA and described in WO97 / 05856. 32) Thickening agents (thickeners and gelling agents) The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more thickeners, at a concentration of between 0.05% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5%. and more preferably between 0.25% and 4%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Among the classes of thickening agents that may be mentioned, without limitation: a) Polymers of the carboxylic acid These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol. Polymers usable in the present invention are more fully described in US Patents 5,087,445, US 4,509,949; Us 2,798,053; and in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Tenth Edition, 2004. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful in the present application include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol. Carbomers are available as Carbopol 900 series of B.F. Goodrich (eg, Carbopol 954). Among the suitable carboxylic acid polymeric agents are also Ultrez 10 (Bf Godrich) and copolymers of C 10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or of one of their short chain (ie, CI-4 alcohol) esters wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerytritol. These copolymers are known as acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and are commercially available as Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382, Pemulen Tr-1, and Pemulen TR 2, B.f. Goodrich. In other words, the examples of the carboxylic acid polymeric thickeners usable in the present invention are those selected from carbomers, acrylates / C10-C30alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and mixtures thereof. b) Polyacrylate crosslinked polymers The compositions of the present invention may optionally contain crosslinked polyacrylate polymers used as thickeners or gelling agents comprising both cationic and nonionic polymers, with cationics generally being preferred. Examples of the usable nonionic polyacrylate crosslinked polymers and cationic polyacrylate crosslinked polymers are those described in US Pat. Nos. 5,100,660; Us 4,849,484; Us4.835.206, Us 4.628.078; Us 4,599,379 and EP228,868. c) Polyacrylamide Polymers The compositions of the present invention may optionally contain polyacrylamide polymers, particularly nonionic polyacrylamide polymers comprising branched or unbranched substituted polymers. Particularly preferred among these polyacrylamide polymers are the non-ionic polymer, designated CTFA, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the trade name Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

  Other polyacrylamide polymers useful in the present invention include the hetero-copolymers of acrylamides and acrylamides substituted with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Examples of such commercially available hetero-copolymers include: Hypan SR15OH, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc. The compositions may also contain thickening and texturizing gels such as the Lubrajel product line. United Guardian. These gels have hydration, viscosity, and stabilizing properties and can be employed in concentration ranges of from 1 to 99%, most preferably from 5 to 15%. D) Polysaccharides A wide variety of polysaccharides are useful in the present invention. "Polysaccharides" refers to gelling agents that contain a backbone of repeat sugar units (ie, carbohydrate). Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from cellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose carboxymethyl, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, ethylcellulose hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose hydroxypropyl, hydroxyethylcellulose methyl, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium sulfate of cellulose, and mixtures thereof. In addition, alkyl substituted celluloses can also be used. Preferred among the alkylhydroxyalkylcellulose ethers is the material identifiable by the CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the name Natrosol CS Plus at Aqualon Corporation. Other usable polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3) glucose linked units with glucose (1-6) every three units, such a commercially available example is ClearogelTMCS 11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc. E) Gums Other gelling and thickening agents which can be used in the context of the present invention include materials which are mainly derived from natural sources. By way of nonlimiting examples of these gums / gelling agents, mention may be made of gum arabic, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerote gum, dextran sodium carboxymethyl, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and the like. 33) Anti-perspirant active ingredients Anti-perspirant active ingredients can also be included in the compositions of the present invention. Suitable antiperspirant active agents include astringent metal salts, particularly inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium and zinc, as well as mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are salts or materials containing aluminum and / or zirconium such as aluminum halides, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum hydroxyhalides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxyhalides and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the antiperspirant active agents are present in the compositions of the present invention at a concentration of between 0.01% and 50%, preferably between 0.1% and 40%, and preferably between 1% and 30%. %, by weight relative to the weight of the composition. 34) The detersive surfactants The compositions of the present invention may contain an amount of detersive surfactants of 1% to 90%, preferably 5% to 10%. The detersive surfactants can be incorporated to provide cleansing (washing) properties to the present composition. The detersive surfactant components may alternatively comprise anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric detersive surfactants (or surfactants), or combinations thereof. Such detersive surfactants which can be used in the context of the present invention are well known to the professional in cleansing compositions, hair care and other personal care. The concentration of the anionic surfactant, when present in the composition, preferably sufficient to provide the desired washing and foaming properties, generally varies between 5% and 50%, preferably between 8% and 30%, preferably between 10% and 25%, and more preferably between 12% and 22%. Preferred anionic surfactants for use in the present invention are alkyls and alkyl ether sulfates. Other suitable anionic surfactants include salts, water-soluble, sulfuric acid organic reaction products, alkoyl isethionates, sodium or potassium salts (sodium or potassium salts of fatty acid amides with methyl taurine) olefin sulfonates, beta-alkyloxy alkane sulfonates. Preferred anionic detersive surfactants include ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, triethylamine lauryl sulfate, triethylamine laureth sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, monoethanolamine laureth sulfate, diethanolamine lauryl sulfate, and the like. laureth sulphate of diethanolamine, lauric sulfate of monoglyceride and sodium, sodium laurilsulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, potassium laurilsulfate, potassium laureth sulfate, sodium laurilsarcosinate, sodium lauroylsarcosinate, laurilsarcosine, cocoylsarcosine, cocoylsulfosate of ammonium, ammonium lauroylsulfate, sodium cocoylsulfate, sodium lauroylsulfate, potassium cocoylsulfate, potassium laurilsulfate, triethanolamine laurilsulfate, triethanolamine laurilsulfate, monoethanolamine cocoylsulfate, monoethanolamine laurilsulfate, tridecylbenzene sulphonate and sod ium, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoylisethionate and combinations thereof. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that can be used in the context of the present invention are well known by the professional in cleansing compositions, hair care and other personal care. The concentration of such amphoteric surfactants generally varies between 0.5% and 20%, preferably between 1% and 10%. Non-limiting examples of zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants usable herein are described in US 5,104,646 and US 5,106,609. Amphoteric detersive surfactants include derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines. The compositions of the present invention may further comprise additional surfactants in combination with the detersive surfactants described above. Suitable optional surfactants include cationic and nonionic surfactants. Such surfactants known in hair or personal care products may be used provided that they are chemically and physically compatible with the essential components of the compositions of the present invention, and provided that they do not adversely affect the composition of the present invention. effectiveness, aesthetics or stability of the product. The concentration in the composition of the optional additional surfactants may vary with the desired cleaning or foaming property, the optional surfactant chosen, the desired concentration of the product, the presence of other components in the composition and other conventionally known factors. Non-limiting examples of other anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric or optional surfactants useful in the context of the present invention include those described in Emulsifiers and Detergents, McCutcheon, 1989 Annual, published by M. C. Publishing Co and in Us Nos. 3,929,678, Us 2,658,072; Us 2,438,091 and Us 2,528,378. 35) Cationic, Anionic and Amphoteric Polymers The compositions of the present invention may contain polymers which may be homopolymers, copolymers, terpolymers, etc. By convention, to describe the polymers in the context of the present invention, the monomeric units present in the polymers may be referred to as the monomers from which they may be derived. The monomers can be ionic (for example, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic) or nonionic. When present in the composition, the cationic polymer may be at a concentration of between 0.05% and 3%, preferably between 0.075% and 2.0%, and preferably between 0.1% and 3.5%. %. a) Cationic Polymers The cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention comprise nitrogen-containing cationic groups such as quaternary ammonium groups or cationic protonated amine groups. Any anionic counterion may be used in combination with the cationic polymers, provided that the polymers remain soluble in the water, in the composition, or in a coacervate of the composition, and that the counterions are compatible with the cationic polymers. chemically and physically with the essential components of the compositions of the present invention, and provided that they do not impair the effectiveness, aesthetics or stability of the product. Non-limiting examples of such counterions include halides (e.g., chloride, fluoride, bromide, iodide), sulfate and methylsulfate. Non-limiting examples of such polymers are described in CTFA. Non-limiting examples of suitable cationic polymers include copolymers of vinyl monomers having quaternary ammonium groups or cationic protonated amines with water-soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone or vinyl pyrrolidone. Examples of cationic monomers include monomers derived from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and a quaternized epihalohydrin product of a trialkylamine having 1 to 5 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as (meth) chloride acryloxypropyltrimethylammonium and (meth) acryloxypropyltriethylammonium bromide; amino derivatives of methacrylic acid or amino derivatives of methacrylamide derived from methacrylic acid or methacrylamide, and a dialkylalkanolamine having C1-C6 alkyl groups such as dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, diethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylate, or dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylamide. Monomers having cationic protonated amino groups and quaternary ammonium groups that may be included in the cationic polymers of the present composition include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate substituted vinyl compounds, and the like. trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium salt, quaternary diallylammonium salt and vinyl monomers having quaternary ammonium groups having nitrogen-containing cationic rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium and quaternized pyrrolidone, for example alkylvinylimidazolium salts. , alkylvinylpyridinium, alkylvinylpyrrolidone. Other cationic polymers suitable for use in the compositions include the copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (eg, salt chloride) (referenced in "CTFA"). as Polyquaternium 16); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referenced in "CTFA", as Polyquaternium-11); cationic polymers containing quaternary diallylammonium, including, for example, homopolymer dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (referenced respectively in the "CTFA", as R) lyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7 ); amphoteric acrylic acid copolymers comprising copolymers of acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (referenced in "CTFA", as Polyquaternium 22), and terpolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide ( referenced in "CTFA", as Polyquaternium 39) and terpolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methylacrylate (referenced in "CTFA", as Polyquaternium 47). Preferred substituted cationic monomers are substituted cationic dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamides, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamides, and combinations thereof. A non-limiting example is poly (methyacrylamidopropyl) trimonium chloride, available under the trade name Polycare 133, from Rhone-Poulenc. Other cationic polymers useful in the context of the present invention include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Preferred Polymers The preferred cationic cellulose polymers are the hydroxyethylcellulose salts reacted with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, referenced in "CTFA", as Polyquaternium 10 and commercially available from Amerchol Corp. in their polymer series Polymer LR, JR, and KG. Other suitable types of cationic cellulose include the quaternary ammonium hydroxyethylcellulose polymer salts reacted with a lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxide, referenced in "CTFA", as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol. Corp. under the trade name Polymer LM-200. Other suitable cationic polymers include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, of which specific examples are the Jaguar fillers available from Rhone-Poulenc Incorporated and the N-Hance series available from Aqualon Division of Hercules. Other suitable cationic polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers, some examples of which are described in US Pat. No. 3,962,418. Other examples of cationic polymers that may be used include esterified cellulose, guar and starch copolymers, some examples of which are described in US Pat. No. 3,958,581. When used, the cationic polymers according to the present invention are either soluble in the composition or are soluble in a complex coacervate in the composition formed by the cationic polymer and the anionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic detersive surfactant component previously described. . Complex coacervates of the cationic polymer may also be formed with the other materials charged with the composition. b) Anionic polymers Examples of anionic polymers are copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, terpolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and a vinyl ester of a branched saturated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid alpha, such as vinyl neodecanoate and copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, acrylic copolymers and terpolymers containing acrylic acid or methacrylic acid. Examples of anionic monomers include unsaturated carboxylic acid monomers such as such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic acid half-ester, itaconic acid, acid, and the like. fumitic acid, and half ester crotonic acid of an unsaturated polybasic acid anhydride such as succinic anhydride, phthalic anhydride or a similar compound with a hydroxyl group-containing acrylate and / or methacrylate such as hydroxyethyl acrylate and hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl acrylate and the like; Monomers having a sulfonic acid group such as styrenesulfonic acid, sulfoethyl acrylate and methacrylate, and the like; and monomers having a phosphoric acid group such as phosphoacrylate and ethyl methacrylate, 3-chloro-2-acid phosphooxypropylacrylate and methacrylate and the like. c) Amphoteric monomers Examples of amphoteric monomers include zwitterionic derivatives of the above-mentioned amino derivatives (meth) acrylic acids or amino derivatives of (meth) acrylamide such as dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylamide by a halogenated fatty acid salt such as potassium monochloroacetate, sodium monobromopropionate, aminomethylpropanol salt of the acid monochloroacetic acid, triethanolamine salts of monochloroacetic acid and the like and amine derivatives of (meth) acrylic acid or (meth) acrylamide, as mentioned above, modified by propanesultone. 36) Nonionic Polymers The compositions of the present invention may comprise nonionic polymers. For example, polyalkylene glycols having a molecular weight greater than 1000 may be used. Preferred polyethylene glycol polymers may include PEG-2M (also known as Polyox WSR N-10, available from Union Carbide and as PEG-2,000); PEG-5M (also known as Polyox WSR N-35 and Polyox WSR N-80, available from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M (also known as Polyox WSR N-750 available from Union Carbide); PEG-9M (also known as Polyox WSR N-3333 available from Union Carbide); and PEG-14 M (also known as Polyox WSR N-3000 available from Union Carbide).

  By way of examples of nonionic monomers, mention may be made of: methacrylic acid esters of C1 to C24 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-propanol; , 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 3-pentanol, 2-methyl-butanol, 1-methyl-butanol, 3-methyl-butanol, 1-methyl-1-pentanol, 2-methyl-1-pentanol, 3-methyl -1-pentanol, butanol, cyclohexanol, 2-ethyl-1-butanol, 3-heptanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-octanol, 6-methyl-1-heptanol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, 3,5-dimethyl 1 hexanol, 3,5,5-trimethyl-1-hexanol, 1-decanol, 1-dodecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol, styrene, chlorostyrene, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, alpha-methylstyrene, t-butylstyrene, butadiene, cyclohexadiene, ethylene, propylene, vinyl toluene, alkoxyalkyl (meth) acrylate, methoxyethyl (meth) acrylate, butoxyethyl (meth) acrylate, allyl acrylate, allyl methacrylate, acrylate and methacrylate. cyclohexyl, oleyl acrylate and me methacrylate, benzyl acrylate and methacrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate and methacrylate, di-acrylate and ethylene glycol methacrylate, 1,3-butylene glycol di-acrylate and methacrylate, diacetonacrylamide, isobornyl (meth) acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, t-butylacrylate, t-butylmethacrylate, and mixtures thereof 37) Conditioning agents Conditioning agents denote any particular material used to give a particular treatment advantage to keratin tissue.  For example, in hair compositions, suitable conditioning agents include those which provide one or more advantages in brightness, smoothness, combability, antistatic properties, wet handling, weathering, workability , the structure and the greasing of the hair.  Conditioning agents useful in the compositions of the present invention may include a non-volatile, water-insoluble, water-insoluble liquid which forms emulsified liquid particles.  Suitable conditioning agents within the scope of the present invention include those treating agents generally characterized as silicones (eg, silicone oils, cationic silicones, silicone gums, highly refractile silicones, and silicone resins), organic conditioning oils (For example, hydrocarbon oils, polyolefins, and fatty esters) or combinations thereof, or those conditioning agents that differently form the liquid particles and are dispersed in the aqueous matrix of surfactants previously described.  When present in the composition, the concentration of the conditioning agent may be sufficient to provide the desired benefits, and will be apparent to those skilled in the art.  Such a concentration may vary depending on the conditioning agent, the desired benefits, the average particle size of the conditioning agent, the nature and concentration of the other components as well as other factors.  a) Silicones The conditioning agent of the compositions of the present invention is preferably an insoluble silicone conditioning agent.  The particles of a silicone conditioning agent may comprise volatile silicone, non-volatile silicone, or mixtures thereof.  Non-volatile silicones are preferred.  If the volatile silicones are present, it will typically be related to their use as a solvent or carrier for commercially available forms of non-volatile silicone components, such as silicone gums and resins.  The silicone conditioning agent particles may comprise a silicone fluid conditioning agent and may also comprise other components, such as a silicone resin for improving the deposition efficiency of the silicone liquid or increasing the brightness of the hair .  The concentration of silicone conditioning agent typically ranges from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 8%, preferentially from 0.1% to 5%, and more preferably from 0, 2% and 3%.  Non-limiting examples of suitable silicone conditioning agents, and optional suspending agents for silicone, are described in US Reissue Patents 34,584, U. S.  No.  5,104,646, and U. S.  No.  5106609.  Basic information on silicones can be found in the sections on fluids, gums, and silicone resins, as well as on the manufacture of silicones, in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol.  15th, 2nd ed. , pp 204-308, by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.  (1989).  Silicone fluids Silicone fluids include silicone oils, which are silicone-based materials having flowability, and a viscosity, measured at 25 ° C, of less than 1 000 csk, preferably between 5 csk and 1000000 csk, preferentially between 100 csk and 60,000 csk.  Silicone oils useful in the compositions of the present invention include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof.  Other insoluble, nonvolatile silicone fluids having hair conditioning properties can also be used.  c) Amino and Cationic Silicones The cationic silicone fluids that can be used in the context of the present invention include, but are not limited to, the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone".  Other cationic silicone polymers which can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, UCARE SILICONE ALE 56 ™ from Union Carbide.  d) Silicone Gums Other silicone fluids that can be used in the context of the present invention are insoluble silicone gums.  These gums are polyorganosiloxane materials having a viscosity, measured at 25 C, greater than or equal to 1000000csk.  The silicone gums are described in US Pat. No. 4,152,416, in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, of Noll and Walter, New York: Academic Press (1968) and in the product data sheets of Silicone Rubber SE 30, SE 33, SE products. 54 and SE 76 of General Electric.  By way of nonlimiting examples of silicone gums which can be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of: polydimethylsiloxane, copolymer (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane), poly (dimethylsiloxane) copolymer (diphenylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) and their mixtures.  e) High Refractive Index Silicones There are other non-volatile, insoluble silicone fluids which can be used as conditioning agents in the compositions of the present invention and which are known as high refractive index silicones having a refractive index. refraction at least equal to 1.46, preferably 1.48, preferably 1.52 and more preferably 1.55.  The refractive index of a polysiloxane fluid will generally be less than 1.70, and typically less than 1.60.  In this context, the term polysiloxane fluid includes oils as well as gums.  When high refractive index silicones are used in the compositions of the present invention, they are preferably used in solution with a coating agent, such as silicone resin or surfactant, to sufficiently decrease surface tension. In order to improve the spreading and thus the gloss (after drying) of the hair treated with the composition.  The silicone fluids that can be used in the context of the present invention are described in patents Us. 2,826,551, U. S. 3,964,500, U. S. 4,364,837, GB 849,433, and in Silicon Compounds, Petrarch Systems, Inc.  (1984).  F) Silicone resins Silicone resins can be included in the silicone conditioning agents of the compositions of the present invention.  These resins are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane based systems.  Crosslinking is introduced by incorporating trifunctional and tetrafunctional silanes with monofunctional or difunctional silanes, or both, in the manufacture of the silicone resin.  38) Organic conditioning oils The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a conditioning organic oil.  According to one embodiment, an amount of from 0.05% to 20%, preferably from 0.08% to 1.5%, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1%, of at least one organic oil. The conditioner is used as conditioning agent either alone or in combination with other conditioning agents such as the silicones described above.  a) Hydrocarbon oils The organic oils which can be used as conditioning agents in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, hydrocarbon oils having at least 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclic hydrocarbons, straight chain (saturated or unsaturated) aliphatic hydrocarbons, branched chain (saturated or unsaturated) aliphatic hydrocarbons, including polymers and mixtures thereof.  The straight chain hydrocarbon oils are preferably C12 to C19.  Branched chain hydrocarbon oils typically contain more than 19 carbon atoms.  By way of non-limiting specific examples, paraffins, mineral oils, saturated or unsaturated dodecane, saturated or unsaturated tridecane, saturated or unsaturated tertadecane, saturated or unsaturated pentadecane, saturated hexadecane or unsaturated, polybutene, polydecene, and mixtures thereof.  Branched chain isomers of these compounds as well as longer chain hydrocarbons may also be used; examples of which include highly branched, saturated or unsaturated alkanes, such as isomers substituted with a permethyl group, e. boy Wut.  isomers substituted with a permethyl group of hexadecane and eicosane, such as: 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6, 1, 8, 8-dimethyl-10-methylundecane and 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6-dimethyl-8-methylnonane available from Permethyl Corporation, hydrocarbon polymers such as polybutene and polydecene.  A preferred example of a hydrocarbon polymer is polybutene such as isobutylene and butene copolymer.  Such a product is available from Amoco Chemical Corporation as L-14 polybutene.  Another example is hydrogenated polyisobutene or liquid isoparaffin.  b) Polyolefins The organic conditioning oils that can be used in the context of the present invention also comprise liquid polyolefins, preferably liquid poly-α-olefins, preferably hydrogenated liquid poly-α-olefins.  The polyolefins usable herein are prepared by polymerization of olefinic C4 to C14, preferably C6 to C12, monomers.  As preferred examples of olefinic monomers used in the preparation of liquid polyolefins, mention may be made, without this list being exhaustive, of ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 1-pentene and 1-hexene at 1 hexadecenes, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, isomers of branched chains such as 4-methyl-1-pentene, and their mixtures.  Also suitable for the preparation of liquid polyolefins are feedstocks or effluents from refineries containing olefins.  c) Fatty esters Other organic conditioning oils that can be used as a conditioning agent may include, but are not limited to, fatty esters having at least 10 carbon atoms.  These fatty esters include esters with hydrocarbon chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols (eg monoesters, polyol esters, and di- and tri-carboxylic acid esters).  The hydrocarbon radicals of the fatty esters, within the scope of the present invention, may include or covalently link other compatible functional groups, such as amides or oxyalkyl moieties (eg, ethoxy or ether linkages, etc.). . As specific examples of preferred fatty esters, mention may be made, without this list being exhaustive: isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate , isopropyl isostearate, dihexyldecyl adipate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, and oleyl adipate.  Other fatty esters which may be used in the context of the present invention are the monocarboxylic acid esters of general formula R'COOR, where R 'and R are alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and the sum of the carbon atoms between R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 22.  Also suitable are saturated and unsaturated esters of alkoxylated di-, tri-carboxylic acids, such as C4-C8 dicarboxylic acid esters (e.g. boy Wut.  esters C1 to C22, preferably C1 to 10 C6, succinic acid, glutaric acid and adipic acid).  Non-limiting examples of saturated and unsaturated esters of alkoxylated di-, tri-carboxylic acids are isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate and tristearyl citrate.  Other fatty esters that can be used in the context of the present invention are known as polyol esters.  Such polyol esters include alkylene glycol esters, such as ethylene glycol fatty acid mono- and diesters, diethylene glycol fatty acid mono- and diesters, fatty acid mono- and diesters. polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol fatty acid mono- and di-esters, polypropylene glycol monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyesters of polyglycerol fatty acids, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters and the like. fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylene sorbitan.  Other examples of fatty esters which can be used in the context of the present invention are glycerides, including, but not limited to, mono-, di- and triglycerides, preferably triglycerides.  For use in the compositions described herein, the glycerides are preferably long-chain mono-, di-, tri-esters of glycerol and carboxylic acids, such as C10-C22 carboxylic acids.  A wide variety of such products can be obtained from vegetable and animal fats and oils such as castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil, sesame oil, lanolin and soybean oil.  Synthetic oils include, but are not limited to, triolein and tristearin glyceryldilaurate.  Other fatty esters that may be used in the context of the present invention are synthetic fatty esters that are insoluble in water.  Mention may be made, without this list being limiting, as synthetic fatty esters: P-43 (trimethylolpropane C8-C10 triester), MCP-684 (3,3-diethanol-pentadiol tetraester), PCM 121 (C8-C10 adipic acid diester), all available from Mobil Chemical Company.  39) Anti-dandruff active ingredients The compositions of the present invention may comprise an anti-dandruff agent.  As non-limiting examples of particulate anti-dandruff substances include: pyridinethione salts, azoles, selenium sulfide, particulate sulfur and mixtures thereof.  The preferred pyridinethione salts are the salts of 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione.  The concentration of particulate anti-pellicular material is typically from 0.1% to 4%, preferably from 0.1% to 3%, more preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight of the composition.  Preferred pyridinethione salts include those formed from heavy metals such as zinc, tin, cadmium, magnesium, aluminum and zirconium, preferentially zinc, more preferably zinc salt of the former. -hydroxy-2-pyridinethione (known as "zinc pyridinethione" or "ZPT").  Anti-dandruff pyridinethione active agents are described for example in US Pat.  2,809,971; U. S.  3,236,733; U. S.  3,753,196; U. S.  3,761,418; U. S, 4,345,080; 1 5 U. S, 4,323,683; U. S.  4,379,753; and you. S.  4470982.  40) Humectant The compositions of the present invention may contain a humectant.  The humectants may be selected from the group consisting of: polyols, water-soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers and mixtures thereof.  When present, the humectants are used at concentrations of between 0.1% and 20%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%.  The polyols which can be used herein include glycerine, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose, 1,2-hexane diol, hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, trehalose , diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol, maltose, glucose, fructose, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium adenosine phosphate, sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.  The water-soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers useful herein include polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight up to 1000, such as PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000 (CTFA name) and mixtures thereof.  The suspending agents The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a suspending agent, preferably at effective concentrations for suspending water insoluble materials in dispersed form in the compositions or for modifying the viscosity. of these compositions.  Such concentrations may range from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.3% to 5.0%.  Suspension agents here include anionic polymers and nonionic polymers.  Can be used in the context of the present invention vinyl polymers such as crosslinked acrylic acid polymers known under the name CTFA Carbomer, and modified cellulose polymers such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, gum arabic, galactan, locust bean gum, pectin, quince seed (Cydonia oblonga Mill), starch (rice, corn, apple) earth, wheat), algae colloids (seaweed extract), microbiological polymers such as dextran, succinoglucan, pulleran, starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch, alginic acid-based polymers, such as sodium alginate, alginic acid esters of propylene glycol, acrylate polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polyacrylamide, polyethyleneimine and water-soluble inorganic material such as bentonite, aluminum magnesium silicate, laponite, hectonite, and silicic acid anhydride.  The previously mentioned actives as thickening actives may also be used as suspending agents.  Viscosity modifying agents commercially available include: Carbomers sold under the trade names Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, and Carbopol 981, at B.  F.  Goodrich Company, acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers of the trade name ACRYSOL 22 available from Rohm and Hass, nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose of the trade name AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 available from Amerchol, methylcellulose of the trade name BENECEL, hydroxyethyl cellulose of commercial name NATROSOL , hydroxypropyl cellulose of the trade name KLUCEL, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose of the trade name POLYSURF 67, all available from Hercules, polymers based on ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide trade name CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs, and UCON FLUIDS, available from Amerchol.  Other optional suspending agents include crystalline suspending agents which can be classified as acyl derivatives, long chain amine oxides, long chain acyl derivatives and mixtures thereof.  Such suspending agents are described in US Patent 4,741,855.  Preferred suspending agents include fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol, fatty acid alkanolamides, long chain long chain fatty acid esters (e.g. boy Wut. stearyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, etc. ); long chain esters of long chain alkanolamides (e.g. stearamide distetrate diethanolamide, stearamide stearate monoethanolamide) and glyceryl esters (e. boy Wut. , glyceryl distearate, trihydroxystearin, tribehenin) whose Thixin from Rheox, Inc. is a commercial example.  Other suitable suspending agents include primary amines having a fatty alkyl group having at least 16 carbon atoms, for example palmitamine or stearamine, and secondary amines having two fatty alkyl groups each having at least about 12 atoms. of carbon, examples including dipalmitoylamine or hydrogenated tallow di-amine.  Other suitable suspending agents also include hydrogenated tallow diamide of phatlic acid and crosslinked maleic anhydride-methylvinyl ether copolymer.  Terpene Alcohol The compositions of the present invention may comprise a terpene alcohol or combinations of terpene alcohols.  In the context of the present invention, "terpene alcohol" refers to organic compounds composed of two or more isoprene units carbon [CH 2 = C (CH 3) -CH = CH 2] with a hydroxyl end group.  The composition may comprise from 0.001% to 50%, preferably from 0.01% to 20%, preferentially from 0.1% to 15%, more preferably from 0.1% to 10%, still more preferably from 0% to 10%. , 5% to 5%, and even more preferably from 1% to 5%, of terpene alcohol relative to the weight of the composition.  Examples of terpene alcohols which can be used in the context of the present invention include: farnesol, farnesol derivatives, farnesol isomers, geraniol, geraniol derivatives, geraniol isomers, phytantriol, phytantriol derivatives, phytantriol isomers, and their mixtures.  The preferred terpene alcohol here is farnesol.  a) Farnesol and Farnesol Derivatives Farnesol is a naturally occurring substance that is thought to act as a precursor and / or intermediate in the biosynthesis of squalene and sterols, particularly cholesterol.  Farnesol is also involved in the modification and regulation of proteins (for example, farnesylation of proteins), and there is a farnesol-sensitive nuclear receptor.  Chemically, farnesol is [2E, 6E] 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,6,10-trienol.  The use of the term "farnesol" includes its isomers and tautomers.  Farnesol is marketed, for example, under the name fanesol (a mixture of Dragoco isomers) and tans-trans farnesol (Sigma Chemical Company).  A farnesol derivative usable here is farnesyl acetate available from Aldrich Chemical Company.  b) Geraniol and Geraniol Derivatives Geraniol is the common name for the chemical compound 3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadien-1-ol.  In the context of the present invention "geraniol" also includes its isomers and tautomers.  Geraniol is available from Aldrich Chemical Company.  Geraniol derivatives useful in the context of the present invention include geranyl acetate, geranylgeraniol, geranyl pyrophosphate, and geranylgeranyl pyrophosphate, all provided by Sigma Chemical Company.  Geraniol is, for example, used as a spider vein repair agent and rosacea, a puffy and puffed eye repair agent, an anti-jaundice agent, a skin looseness repair agent, an anti-peel agent, and the like.  skin thickening agent, pore reducing agent, skin and greasiness reducing agent, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation repairing agent, wound treating agent, anti-cellulite agent and as a regulating agent the texture of the skin such as wrinkles and fine lines.  c) Phytantriol and derivatives Phytantriol is the common name for the chemical known as 3,7,11,15-tetramethyl-1,2,3-hexadecanetriol.  Phytantriol is marketed by BASF.  The compositions of the present invention may contain a healthy and effective amount of phytantriol.  Phytantriol is used, for example, as an active ingredient for the repair of spider veins (telangiectasia) and speckled spots (rosacea), as anti-dark circles and anti-puffy active agents, anti-yellow complexion active, anti-sagging active agent, anti-active agent. 0 itching, skin thickening agent, pore reducing agent, anti-shine active, anti-post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation active, wound healing agent, anti cellulite active, and active skin texture regulator, including wrinkles and the fine lines.  43) Enzymes, Enzyme Inhibitors and Enzyme Activators (Coenzymes) The composition of the present invention may also contain a healthy and effective amount of one or more enzymes, enzyme inhibitors or enzyme activators (coenzymes). ).  For example, lipases, proteases, catalases, superoxide dismutases, amylases, glucuronidases, peroxidases, in particular glutathione peroxidase or lactoperoxidase, ceramidases and hyaluronidases may be mentioned.  All these enzymes can be obtained by extraction or by biological fermentation processes.  Examples of enzyme inhibitors include trypsin inhibitors, Bowmann Birk inhibitors, chymotrypsin inhibitors, botanical extracts with or without tannins, flavonoids, or quercitin which inhibit enzyme activity.  Mention may also be made of enzymatic preparations, such as the product VENUCEANE sold by SEDERMA (WO 02/066668).  Enzyme activators and coactivators include, for example, coenzyme A, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), glycyrrhizidine, berberine and chrysin.  II.  Excipient The compositions of the present invention may comprise an excipient or medium orally, dermatologically acceptable or even injectable, depending on the desired formulation.  A.  Dermatologically Acceptable Excipient The topical compositions of the present invention may also comprise a dermatologically acceptable excipient.  According to a particular embodiment, the excipient is present between 50% and 99.99%, preferably between 60% and 99.9%, preferably between 70% and 98%, and more preferably between 80% and 95%, the weight of the composition.  The excipient can exist in a wide variety of forms.  Non-limiting examples include simple solutions (water-based or oil-based), emulsions, and solid forms (gels, sticks).  For example, emulsion excipients may include, but are not limited to, oil-in-water, water-in-oil, water-in-silicone, water-in-oil-in-water and oil-in-oil emulsions. water-in-silicone.  Depending on the desired form, preferred excipients may include an emulsion such as oil-in-water emulsions (e.g. boy Wut. , silicone in water) and water-in-oil emulsions (e. boy Wut. , water-in-silicone emulsions).  Those skilled in the art will understand that a given component will distribute mainly in the aqueous phase or in the oily or silicone phase, depending on the solubility / dispersion coefficient of said component.  Oil / water emulsions are particularly preferred.  In the context of the present invention, the emulsions may comprise an aqueous phase and a lipid or an oil.  Lipids and oils can be obtained from animals, plants, or petroleum and can be natural or synthetic (ie. -to-d. , elaborated by the hand of man).  The preferred emulsions also contain a humectant, such as glycerine.  The emulsions will also preferably contain from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 5%, of an emulsifier, relative to the weight of the composition.  Emulsifiers can be nonionic, anionic or cationic.  Suitable emulsifiers are described in, for example, the Us3 patents. 755. 560, Us 4. 421. 769 and in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition, pp. 317-324 (1986).  Suitable emulsions may have a wide range of viscosity coefficients, depending on the desired form of the product. The compositions of the present invention may be in the form of pourable liquids (at ambient conditions).  The compositions may therefore comprise an aqueous excipient, which is generally present between 20% and 95%, preferably between 60% and 85%.  The aqueous excipient may comprise water, or a miscible mixture of water and organic solvent, but preferably comprises water with an organic solvent at minimal or insignificant concentrations, except fortuitous incorporation into the composition under minor component form of other essential or optional constituents.  The emulsion may also contain an anti-foaming agent to minimize foaming following application to keratinous tissue.  Antifoam agents include high molecular weight silicones and other materials well known to those skilled in the art for such use.  The preferred emulsions of water in silicone and oils in water will be detailed later.  1) Water-in-silicone emulsions Water-in-silicone emulsions contain a continuous silicone phase and a dispersed aqueous phase a) Continuous phase The preferred water-in-silicone emulsions of the present invention contain from about 1% to about 60%. %, preferably from 5% to 40%, preferably from 10% to 20%, by weight of a continuous silicone phase.  The continuous silicone phase exists as an outer phase which contains or surrounds the discontinuous aqueous phase described hereinafter.  The continuous silicone phase contains a polyorganosiloxane oil.  A preferred water-in-silicone emulsion system is formulated to provide an oxidatively stable excipient for the active.  The continuous silicone phase of these preferred emulsions contains about 50% to 99.9% by weight of the organopolysiloxane oil and less than 50% by weight of a non-silicone oil.  In a particularly preferred embodiment, the continuous silicone phase contains at least 50%, preferably 60%, 99.9%, preferably 70% to 99.9%, and more preferably 80% to 99%. , 9%, of polyorganosiloxane oil by weight of the continuous silicone phase, and up to 50% of non-silicone oils, preferably less than 40%, preferably less than 30%, more preferably less than 10%, and even more preferably less than 2% by weight of the continuous silicone phase.  The organopolysiloxane oil that can be used in the composition can be volatile, non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones.  The term "nonvolatile" as used refers to silicones that are liquid at ambient conditions and have a flashpoint below an atmosphere of pressure or greater than 100.degree.  The term "volatile" as used herein refers to all other silicone oils.  Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones having a wide range of volatility and viscosity.  Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane oils include polyalkylsiloxanes, cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.  Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the above composition include polyalkylsiloxanes with viscosity coefficients of about 0.5 to 1. 000. 000 centistokes at 25 C.  Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones, for example the Vicasil series sold by General Electric Company and the Dow Corning 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation.  Specific examples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow Corning 200 fluid, Dow Corning 225 fluid and Dow Corning 200 fluids.  Examples of substituted alkyl dimethicones include cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone Cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for use in the composition include commercially available cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 244 fluid, Dow Corning 344 fluid, Dow Corning 245 In addition, materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate are also usable.  A commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with dimethicone under the name Dow Corning 593 Fluid.

  Dimethiconols are also useful in the context of the present invention. Dimethioconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g. Dow Corning 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids). The polyalkylaryl siloxanes can also be used in the context of the present invention. Polymethylphenyl siloxanes having viscosities between 15 and 65 centistokes at 25 ° C. are particularly useful. Preferred in the context of the present invention are organopolysiloxanes selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl-substituted dimethicones, cyclomethicones, trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Among the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones. As previously described, the continuous silicone phase may contain one or more non-silicone oils. Suitable non-silicone oils have a melting point of about 25 C or less at a pressure atmosphere. Examples of non-silicone oils suitable for use in the continuous silicone phase are known in the chemical industry for topical personal care products in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, for example oil mineral, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, semi-synthetic oils, etc. b) Disperse aqueous phase The topical compositions of the present invention may comprise from 30% to 90%, preferably from 50% to 85% and preferably from 70% to 80% of a dispersed aqueous phase. In emulsion technology, the term "disperse phase" is a term well known to those skilled in the art which means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets that are suspended and surrounded by a continuous phase. The dispersed phase is also known as internal or discontinuous phase. The dispersed aqueous phase is a dispersion of small aqueous particles or droplets suspended and surrounded by the continuous silicone phase described above. The aqueous phase may be water, or a combination of water and one or more water-soluble or dispersible ingredients. Non-limiting examples of such ingredients include thickeners, acids, bases, salts, chelants, gums, water-soluble or dispersible alcohols and polyols, buffers, preservatives, sunscreen agents, dyes, and others. The topical compositions of the present invention will typically contain from about 25% to about 90%, preferably from about 40% to about 80%, preferably from about 60% to about 80%, of water in the dispersed aqueous phase based on the weight of the composition. . C) Emulsifier for dispersing the aqueous phase The water-in-silicone emulsions of the present invention preferably contain an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 7.5%, preferably from 1% to 5%, of emulsifier relative to the weight of the composition. . The emulsifier helps disperse and suspend the aqueous phase in the continuous silicone phase. A wide variety of emulsifying agents can be used here to form the preferred water-in-silicone emulsion. Known or conventional emulsifying agents may be employed in the composition, provided that said selected agent is chemically and physically compatible with components of the composition of the present invention, and provides the desired dispersion characteristics. Suitable emulsifiers include silicone emulsifiers, non-silicone emulsifiers, and mixtures thereof, known to those skilled in the art for use in topical personal care products. Preferably, these emulsifiers have an HLB value equal to 14 or less, preferably 2 to 14, and preferably 4 to 14. Emulsifiers having an HLB value outside these ranges can be used in combination with other emulsifiers to achieve a weighted average HLB effective for the combination included in these margins. Silicone emulsifiers are preferred. A large variety of silicone emulsifiers can be used here. These silicone emulsifiers are generally organically modified organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled in the art as silicone surfactants. The silicone emulsifiers used include dimethicone copolyols. These materials are polydimethylsiloxanes that have been modified to include polyether side chains such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains, and polyether chains containing pendant groups. ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Other examples include dimethicone copolyols modified with an alkyl group, ie, compounds which contain pendant C2-C30 side chains. Other useful dimethicone copolyols also include materials having a variety of pendant cationic, anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic groups. By way of nonlimiting examples of dimethicone copolyols and other silicone surfactants which can be used as emulsifiers, mention may be made of: polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant side chains of polyethylene oxide, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant side chains of polypropylene, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane polyether with mixed side chains of polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane polyether with polyethylene (propylene) oxide pendant side chains, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane polyether with pendant side chains of organobetaine, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant carboxylate side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with quaternary ammonium side chains; and also other modifications of the previous copolymers containing cyclic, branched or straight C2 to C30 alkyl groups. Examples of commercially available usable dimethicone copolyols are sold by Dow Corning Corporation under the names Dow Corning 190, 193, Q2-5220, 2501 wax, fluid 2-5324, and 3225C (the latter material being sold as a mixture cyclone). Cetyl dimethicone copolyol is commercially available in the form of a mixture with polyglyceryl isostearate -4 (and) hexyl laurate sold under the trade name ABIL WE-09 (from Goldschmidt) . Cetyl dimethicone copolyol is also available as a mixture with hexyl laurate (and) polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) cetyldimethicone sold under the trade name ABIL WS-08 (also from Goldschmidt). . Other non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyols also include lauryl dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol acetate, dimethicone copolyol adipate, dimethicone copolyolamine, dimethicone copolyol behenate, dimethicone copolyol butyl ether, dimethicone copolyol hydroxystearate, dimethicone copolyol isostearate, dimethicone copolyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol methyl ether, dimethicone copolyol phosphate and dimethicone copolyol stearate. Dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers are, for example, described in US Pat. Nos. 4,960,764 and EP 330,369. Among the emulsifiers which do not contain silicone, which can be used in the context of the present invention, there are numerous ionic and anionic emulsifying agents such as sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, and C 18 fatty acid esters. to C30 of C1 to C30 fatty alcohol, alkoxylated derivatives of C1 to C30 fatty acid esters of C1 to C30 fatty alcohols, C1 to C30 alkoxylated ethers of fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1 to C30 fatty acids, C1 to C30 esters of polyols, C1 to C30 ethers of polyols, alkylphosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyllactylates, soaps and mixtures thereof. Other suitable emulsifiers are, for example, described in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; patents US 5,011,681; U.S.4,421,769; and U.S. 3,755,560. Non-limiting examples of such non-silicone containing emulsifiers include: polyethylene glycol sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), soybean polyethylene glycol, Steareth-20, ceteareth-20, methylglucose ether distearate PPG-2, ceteth- 10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetylphosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, sodium laureth-4 stearate, polyglyceryl isostearate -4, hexyl laurate, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, methylglucose ether distearate PPG-2, ceteth-10, diethanolamine cetylphosphate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof. D) Silicone Elastomers The compositions of the present invention may also contain from 0.1% to 30% of a silicone elastomer (based on the weight of the composition). Preferably, the compositions contain between 1% and 30%, preferably between 2% and 20%, relative to the weight of the composition, of a silicone elastomer component. In the context of the present invention, the silicone elastomers may be used, which may be emulsifier or non-emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomers and mixtures thereof.

  No specific restriction exists as to the type of crosslinkable organopolysiloxane composition that can serve as a starting material for the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. Examples are the addition-crosslinked organopolysiloxane compositions, the platinum-catalyzed cross-linking thereof, by addition reaction between an SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane and an organopolysiloxane having silicone-bonded vinyl groups; condensation-crosslinking organopolysiloxane compositions whose crosslinking takes place, in the presence of an organotin compound, by a dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and an SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane, and condensation-crosslinking organopolysiloxane compositions crosslinking occurs in the presence of an organotin compound or a titanate ester. The addition-crosslinked organopolysiloxane compositions are preferred because of their rapid crosslinking and excellent uniformity. A particularly preferred addition-crosslinked organopolysiloxane is prepared from: a) an organopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups in each molecule; b) an organopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule; and c) a platinum catalyst. The compositions of the present invention may include an emulsifier crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer, a non-emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer, or a blend. The term non-emulsifier as used herein defines crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers in which the polyoxyalkylene units are absent. The term emulsifier as used herein refers to crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers having at least one polyoxyalkylene unit (e.g., polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene). Preferred emulsifier elastomers include polyoxyalkylene-modified elastomers formed from divinyl compounds, particularly siloxane polymers having at least two free vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds on a polysiloxane backbone. Preferably, the elastomers are dimethylpolysiloxanes crosslinked by Si-H sites on a molecularly spherical MQ resin. The crosslinked emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers may in particular be chosen from the crosslinked polymers described in US Pat. Nos. 5,412,004, 5,837,793 and 5,811,487. In addition, an elastomer consisting of a crosslinked dimethicone copolyol and dimethicone polymer is provided by Shin Etsu under the trade name KSG-21. Advantageously, the non-emulsifying elastomers are dimethicone / vinyldimethicone crosslinked polymers. Such dimethicone / vinyldimethicone crosslinked polymers are provided by numerous suppliers including Dow Corning (DC 9040 and DC 9041), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16, 18 [cross-linked dimethicone / vinyldimethicone polymers]), and Grant Industries (GRANSIL (TM) line of elastomers). The organopolysiloxane crosslinked elastomers usable in the context of the present invention and their manufacturing processes are described in U.S. Patent No. 4,970,252, U.S. 5,760,116, and U.S. 5,654,362. The commercially available preferred elastomers are silicone rubber elastomers 9040 from Dow Corning and KSG-21 from Shin Etsu. Silicone Elastomer Excipient The topical compositions of the present invention may comprise from 1% to 80%. by weight of the composition, an excipient for the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer component described above. The excipient, when combined with the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer particles of the present invention, serves to suspend and swell the elastomeric particles to provide a gel-like network or elastic matrix. The excipient of the crosslinked siloxane elastomer is liquid under ambient conditions and preferably has a low viscosity to allow improved spreading on the skin. The concentrations of the excipient in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention will be primarily dependent on the type and amount of the excipient and the cross-linked siloxane elastomer used. Preferred carrier concentrations are 5% to 50%, preferably 5% to 40%, based on the weight of the composition. The excipient, or vector, for the crosslinked siloxane elastomer comprises one or more liquid excipients suitable for topical application to human skin. These liquid excipients can be organic, contain silicone or fluorine, be volatile or nonvolatile, polar or non-polar, provided that they form a solution, a liquid dispersion or a homogeneous liquid with the siloxane elastomer. crosslinked chosen, for a given concentration of siloxane elastomer, between 28 C and 250 C, preferably between 28 C and 100 C, more preferably between 28 C and 78 C. The term volatile refers here to any non-volatile material defined above . The relatively polar term here means more polar than another matter in terms of solubility parameter; ie d. that the higher the solubility parameter, the more polar the liquid.

 The term nonpolar conventionally refers to material having a solubility parameter of less than 6.5 (cal / cm 3). F) Non-polar, volatile oils The compositions of the present invention may include non-polar, volatile oils. The nonpolar volatile oil tends to impart highly desirable aesthetic properties to the compositions of the present invention. As a result, volatile nonpolar oils are preferably used at a fairly high level. Volatile nonpolar oils particularly useful in the present invention are silicone oils; hydrocarbons; and their mixtures. Such volatile nonpolar oils are for example described in Cosmetics, Science, and Technology, Vol. 1, 27-104 edited by Balsam and Sagarin, 1972. Preferred examples of nonpolar volatile hydrocarbons include isododecane and isodecane (eg, Permethyl-99A available from Presperse Inc.), isoparaffins. C7-C8 to C12-C15 such as Isopar series from Exxon Chemicals. The linear volatile silicones generally have a viscosity of less than 5 centistokes at 25 ° C., whereas the cyclic silicones have a viscosity of less than 10 centistokes at 25 ° C. The particularly preferred examples of volatile silicone oils include cyclomethicones of variable viscosity, for example Dow Corning 200, Dow Corning 244, Dow Corning 245, Dow Corning 344, and Dow Corning 345 (available from Dow Corning Corp.); SF-1204 and SF-1202 Silicone Fluids (available from G. E. Silicones), GE 7207 and 7158 (available from General Electric Co.); and SWS-03314 (available from SWS Silicones Corp.). (g) Relatively polar, non-volatile oils The compositions of the present invention may comprise relatively polar, non-volatile oils. A non-volatile oil is relatively polar compared to a non-polar, volatile oil discussed previously. Thus, the nonvolatile coexcipient is more polar (i.e., has a higher solubility parameter) than at least one of the volatile nonpolar oils. The relatively polar, non-volatile oils that can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, described in Cosmetics, Science, and Technology, Vol. 1, 27-10, published by Balsam and Sagarin, 1972; and U.S. Patents 4,202,879 and 4,816,261. The relatively polar, non-volatile oils that can be used in the context of the present invention are preferably chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols and fatty acids; mono- and di-basic carboxylic acid esters with mono- and polyhydric alcohols, polyoxyethylenes; polyoxypropylene; mixtures of polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene ethers of fatty alcohol; and their mixtures. h) Non-polar, non-volatile oils In addition to the liquids described above, the excipient for the cross-linked siloxane elastomer may optionally contain non-volatile, non-polar oils. Typical non-volatile, nonpolar emollients are for example described in Cosmetics, Science, and Technology Vol. 27-104 of Balsam and Sagarin, 1972; as well as U.S. Patents 4,202,879 and 4,816,261. The non-volatile oils that can be used in the context of the present invention are essentially non-volatile polysiloxanes, paraffinic hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof. 2) Oil-in-Water Emulsions Other preferred topical excipients include oil-in-water emulsions having a continuous aqueous phase and a water-insoluble hydrophobic phase ("oil phase") dispersed. The "oily phase" may contain oil, silicone or mixtures thereof, and includes, but is not limited to, the oils and silicones previously described in the water-in-silicone emulsion portion.

  The distinction between an oil-in-water emulsion and a silicone-in-water emulsion is a function of the main oil or silicone composition of the oily phase. The aqueous phase of these emulsions consists mainly of water, but may also contain other various ingredients such as those of the aqueous phase of the water-in-oil emulsions described above. The preferred oil-in-water emulsions comprise between 25% and 98%, preferably between 65% and 95%, preferably between 70% and 90% water, relative to the total weight of the composition. In addition to a continuous aqueous phase and the oily dispersed phase or silicone, these oil-in-water compositions also comprise an emulsifier for stabilizing the emulsion. Emulsifiers useful herein are well known, and include nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples of emulsifiers for use in oil-in-water emulsions are given in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), and U.S. Patents 5,011,681; U.S. 4,421,769; and U.S. 3,755,560. Other examples of excipients for use in oil-in-water emulsions are described in U.S. Patents 5,073,371 and U.S. 5,073,372. A particularly preferred oil-in-water emulsion containing a structuring agent, a hydrophilic surfactant and water is described in detail below. a) The structuring agent A preferred oil-in-water emulsion contains a structuring agent to assist in the formation of a gel network liquid crystalline structure. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the structuring agent helps provide rheological characteristics to the composition, which contributes to compositional stability. The structuring agent may also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. The preferred compositions of the invention contain from about 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1% to 10%, more preferably from 1% to 5%, of a structuring agent based on the weight of the composition. Preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol stearyl alcohol ether having an average of about 1 about 21 units of ethylene oxide, the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof. The most preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol polyethylene glycol ether having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units. (steareth-2), the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 21 ethylene oxide units (steareth-21), the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of 2 units of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are the structuring agents chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-2, steareth-21 and mixtures thereof. b) The hydrophilic surfactant The preferred oil-in-water emulsions contain from 0.05% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 6%, and preferably from 1% to at least 3% of a hydrophilic surfactant which can disperse the materials. hydrophobic in the aqueous phase (percentages by weight of the topical excipient). The surfactant must be, at least, sufficiently hydrophilic to disperse in water. Preferred hydrophilic surfactants are selected from nonionic surfactants. Among the nonionic surfactants which can be used in the context of the present invention are those which can be broadly defined as condensation products of long chain alcohols, for example C 8 to C 30 alcohols, with sugar polymers. or starch, i.e. glycosides. These compounds may be represented by the formula (S) nOR where S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, and galactose; n is an integer from 1 to 1000, and R is a C8-C30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group may be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Preferred examples of such surfactants include those where S is a glucose moiety, R is a C8-C20 alkyl group and n is an integer of 1 to 9. Commercially available examples of such surfactants include polyglucoside decyl (available as APG 325 CS at Henkel) and polyglucoside lauryl (available as APG 600 CS and 625 CS at Henkel). Other useful nonionic surfactants include the condensation products of the alkylene oxides with fatty acids (ie fatty acid alkylene oxide esters), the condensation products of the oxides. of alkylene with 2 moles of fatty acids (ie, fatty acid alkylene oxide diesters), the condensation products of the alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols (e.g. ie, alkylene oxide ethers of fatty alcohols), the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty acids and fatty alcohols [i.e. wherein the polyalkylene oxide moiety is esterified at one end with a fatty acid and etherified (i.e. ether linked) at the other end with a fatty alcohol]. By way of nonlimiting examples of these nonionic surfactants derived from alkylene oxides, mention may be made of: ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, steareth -6, steareth-10, steareth-12, steareth-21, PEG-6 stearate, PEG-10 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-80 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-200 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate, and mixtures thereof. Other nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxyamide acid surfactants. A particularly preferred surfactant corresponding to the structure mentioned above is the alkyl coconut N-methyl glucoside amide. Methods of making compositions containing polyhydroxy fatty acid amides are described, for example, in US Pat. Nos. 2,965,576, 2,703,798 and US 1,985,424. Preferred among the nonionic surfactants are those selected from steareth-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrose cocoate, steareth-100, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

  Other nonionic surfactants that may be used in the context of the present invention include sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated polyesters and sugar esters, C1 to C30 fatty acid esters of C1 to C30 fatty alcohols, and alkoxylated derivatives. C1 to C30 fatty acid esters of C1 to C30 fatty alcohols, C1 to C30 alkoxylated ethers of fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1 to C30 fatty acids, esters of C1 to C30 polyols, C1 to C30 ethers of polyols, alkylphosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, and mixtures thereof. By way of nonlimiting examples of these emulsifiers, mention may be made of: polyethylene glycol sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, methylglucose ether distearate PPG-2, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 sodium lauryl ether stearate, isostearate of polyglyceryl 4, hexyl laurate, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof. Another group of nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention include mixtures of fatty acid esters based on a mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid ester and fatty acid ester. sucrose, the fatty acid being in each case preferably C8-C24, preferably C10-C20. The preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier is a mixture of C16 to C20 fatty acid ester of sorbitan or sorbitol and C16 to C20 fatty acid ester of sucrose, in particular stearic acid. sorbitan and sucrose cocoate. It is available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121. Other suitable surfactants useful herein include a wide variety of cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants such as those known and detailed hereinafter. Useful hydrophilic surfactants may contain a single surfactant, or any combination of suitable surfactants. The exact surfactant (or surfactants) chosen will depend on the pH of the composition and the other components present. Also useful in the present invention are cationic surfactants, particularly dialkyl quaternary ammonium compounds such as those described in U.S. Patents 5,151,209; U.S. 5,151,210; U.S. 5,120,532; U.S. 4,387,090; U.S. 3,155,591; U.S. 3,929,678; U.S. 3,959,461; as well as in McCutcheon's Detergents & Emulsifiers (North American edition 1979) M.C. Publishing Co .; and Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology of Schwartz, et al, New York: Interscience Publishers, 1949.

  By way of non-limiting examples of these active emulsifiers, mention may be made of: stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium phosphate, behenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, stearamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulphate, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate ammonium) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylcearylammonium tosylate, chloride of stearamidopropyldimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium lactate and mixtures thereof. Behenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride is particularly preferred. Examples, without this list being exhaustive, of cationic surfactants quaternary ammonium salts include those selected from cetylammonium chloride, cetylammonium bromide, laurilammonium chloride, laurilammonium bromide, stearylammonium chloride, and the like. , stearylammonium bromide, cetyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyldimethylammonium bromide, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium bromide, dimethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauriltrimethylammonium chloride , lauryltrimethylammonium bromide, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium bromide, laurildimethylammonium chloride, stearyl dimethylcetyldi (tallow alkyl) dimethylammonium chloride, dicetylammonium chloride, dicetylammonium bromide, dilaurilammonium chloride, dilaurilammonium bromide, distearylammonium chloride, distearylammonium bromide, dicetylmethylammonium chloride, dicetylmethylammonium bromide, dilaurilmethylammonium chloride, dilaurilmethylammonium bromide, distearylmethylammonium chloride, distearylmethylammonium bromide and their mixtures. Other quaternary ammonium salts include those wherein the C 12 -C 30 alkylcarbon chain is derived from a tallow fatty acid or a coconut fatty acid. The term tallow refers to an alkyl group derived from tallow fatty acids (generally hydrogenated tallow fatty acids), which generally have mixtures of alkyl chains in the range of C16 to C18. The term coconut refers to a group alkyl derived from coconut fatty acids, which generally have mixtures of alkyl chains in the C12 to C14 range. Examples of quaternary ammonium salts derived from these sources, tallow and coconut, include di (tallow alkyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, di (tallow alkyl) dimethyl ammonium methyl sulphate, diethyl chloride, and the like. (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium, di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium acetate, di (tallow alkyl) dipropylammonium phosphate, di (tallow alkyl) dimethylammonium nitrate, di (coconut alkyl) chloride dimethylammonium, di (coconut alkyl) dimethylammonium, tallow alkyl ammonium chloride, coconut alkyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. An example of a quaternary amine compound having an alkyl group with an ester linkage is di (tallow alkyl) oxyethyldimethylammonium chloride.

  Preferred cationic surfactants chosen from: behenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, dilaurildimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dimyristyldimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityldimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium phosphate, l stearamidopropylethyldiammonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylcearylammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium lactate, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferred are cationic surfactants selected from: behenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, dilaurildimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dimyristyldimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. A preferred combination of cationic surfactant and structural agent is behenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride and / or behenyl alcohol, wherein the ratio is preferentially optimized to maintain / improve physical and chemical stability, particularly when such a combination contains ionic and / or highly polar solvents. A wide variety of anionic surfactants can also be used in the context of the present invention. By way of non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants, mention may be made of: alkoylisethionates and alkyl and alkyl ether sulphates. The reaction products of fatty acids esterified with isethianonic acid and neutralized, i.e. alkoylisethionates which are typically of the general formula RCOOCH2CH2SO3M where R is an alkyl or alkenyl group of 10 to 30 carbon atoms, M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and triethanolamine.For example, the fatty acids are derived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil. Non-limiting examples of these isethianates include the alkoylisethionates selected from ammonium cocoylisethionate, sodium cocoylisethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium stearoyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof. Also useful are the salts of fatty acids, methyltauride amides. Other similar anionic surfactants are described in US Pat. Nos. 2,486,921; Us 2,486,922 and Us 2,396,278. The alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates have the general formula ROSO3M and RO (C2H4O) xSO3M, respectively, where R is an alkyl or alkenyl group of 10 to 30 carbon atoms, x is an integer of 1 to 10, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, alkanolamines such as triethanolamine, monovalent metal cations such as sodium and potassium, and polyvalent metal cations such as magnesium and calcium. Preferably R has 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms and even more preferably 12 to 14, both in the alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates. The alkyl ether sulphates are typically obtained as condensation products of ethylene oxide and monohydric alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms. The alcohols can be synthetic or can be derived from fats such as coconut oil, palm kernel oil, tallow. Lauryl alcohol and straight chain alcohols derived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil are preferred. Such alcohols are reacted with about 0 and about 10, preferably from about 2 to about 5, more preferably about 3, molar proportions of ethylene oxide, and the resulting mixture of molecular species having, for example, an average of 3 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol is sulphated and neutralized. Another class of anionic active voltage usable in the context of the present invention are the water-soluble salts of the organic and sulfuric acid reaction products of the general formula: R 1 -SO 3 -M wherein R 1 is selected from the group comprising a straight chain or branched, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 8 to 24, preferably about 10 to 16 carbon atoms; and M is a cation as previously described. Other synthetic anionic surfactants also include the class of succinamates, olefin sulfonates having about 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and 13-alkyloxy alkanesulfonates. Examples of these materials are sodium laurilsulfate and ammonium laurilsulfate. Other anionic surfactants which can be used in the context of the present invention are succinates, for example N-octadecylsulphosuccinnate of disodium; disodium laurilsulfosuccinate; diammonium laurilsulfosuccinate; Tetrasodium N- (1,2-dicarboxyethyl) -N-octadecylsulfosuccinnate; sodium sulfosuccinic acid diamino ester; sodium sulfosuccinic acid dihexyl ester; and dioctyl esters of sodium sulfosuccinic acid. Other anionic surfactants include olefinsulfonates having 10 to 24 carbon atoms. In addition to the true alkenesulfonates and a portion of the hydroxyalkane sulfonates, the olefinsulfonates may contain minor amounts of other materials, such as alkenisulfonates, depending on the reaction conditions, the proportion of reactants, the nature of the starting olefins and impurities. olefin stock, and side reactions during the sulfonation process. By way of non-restrictive example, mention may be made of a mixture of alpha olefin sulphonates described in US Pat. No. 3,332,880. Another class of anionic surfactants which can be used in the context of the present invention is the class of beta alkyloxy alkane sulfonates. These surfactants are in accordance with the formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R 1 is a straight chain alkyl group having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms, R 2 is a lower alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms, carbon atom, and M is a water-soluble cation as described above. Other anionic materials that can be used in the context of the present invention are the soaps (ie alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids typically having between 8 and 24 carbon atoms. carbon, preferably between 10 and 20 carbon atoms. The fatty acids used to make the soaps can be obtained from natural sources such as, for example, plants or glycerides derived from animals (eg, palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, castor, tallow, lard, etc ...). Fatty acids can also be synthetically prepared. Soaps are described in more detail in US Patent 4,557,853. Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are also useful. Examples of the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants which may be employed in the compositions of the present invention are those which are widely described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical may be a straight or branched chain and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms (preferably C8-C18) and one of the aliphatic substituents contains an anionic group of solubilization in water eg carboxy, sulphonate, sulfate , phosphate, or phosphonate. Mention may be made, for example, of alkyliminoacetates, iminodialcanoates and aminoalkanoates of formula RN [CH2) mCO2MI2 and RNH (CH2) mCO2M where m is a number between 1 and 4, R is a C8 to C22 alkyl or alkenyl group and M is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium salt or alkanolammonium salt. The preferred amphoteric surfactants are: cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, lauroamphoacetate, lauroamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof. As well as imidazolinium and ammonium derivatives. As specific examples of amphoteric surfactants, mention may be made of sodium 3-dodecylaminopropionate, sodium 2-dodecylaminopropanesulfonate and N-alkyltaurines, such as those obtained by reacting dodecylamine and sodium isethionate as described above. in US Pat. No. 2,658,072, N- (higher alkyl) aspartic acids such as those described in US Pat. No. 2,438,091; and the products sold under the trade name "Miranol" and described in U.S. Patent 2,528,378. Other examples suitable for use in the context of the present invention are phosphates, such as coamidopropyl PG-dimonium phosphate chloride (available under the trade name Monaquat PTC, from Mona Corp.). The zwitterionic surfactants useful in the context of the present invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include the surfactants widely described as derived from aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium and sulfonium compounds, wherein the aliphatic radicals may be straight or branched chains, and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains between 8 and 18 carbon atoms and a substituent contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate groups.

  Zwitterionic surfactants such as betaines are preferred. Examples of betaines include: (higher alkyl) betaines, such as (coconut alkyl) dimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, laurildimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, laurildimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, cetyldimethylbetaine (sold as Lonzaine 16SP from Lonza Corp.), lauril-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethylbetaine, stearyl-bis (2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethyl-gammacarboxypropylbetaine, lauril-bis (2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, (coconut alkyl) dimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurildimethylsulfoethylbetaine, lauril-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine, and amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (where the RCONH (CH2) 3 radical is attached to the nitrogen atom of betaine), olylbetaine ( available as OlB-50ap amphoteric Velvetex at Henkel) and cocamidopropylbetaine (say available as Velvetex BK-35 and BA-35 at Henkel). Other amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include sultaines and hydroxysultaines such as cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine (sold as Mirataine CBS in Rhone-Poulenc), and alkanoyl sarcosinates corresponding to the formula RCON (CH3) CH2CH2CO2M where R is an alkyl or alkenyl group from 101 to 20 carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and trialkanolamine (eg, triethanolamine), a preferred example is sodium lauroylsarcosinate. (C) Water A preferred oil-in-water emulsion contains between about 25% and about 98%, preferably between about 65% and about 95%, more preferably between about 70% and about 90% water by weight of the water. topical excipient. The hydrophobic phase is dispersed in the aqueous phase. The hydrophobic phase may contain water insoluble or partially soluble materials such as those known in the art of compositions, including, but not limited to, the silicones previously described in the silicone-in-water emulsion portion, and the other oils. and lipids as previously described in the emulsion portion. The topical compositions of the invention, including but not limited to lotions and creams, may contain a dermatologically acceptable emollient. These compositions preferably contain between 1% and 50% of the emollient. In the context of the present invention, "emollient" refers to a substance useful for preventing or relieving dryness, as well as for the protection of the skin. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and can be used here. The book Cosmetics Science and Technology by Sagarin, 2nd 3 5 Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972) contains numerous examples of substances usable as emollients. A preferred emollient is glycerine. Glycerine is preferably used at a concentration between 0.001 and 30%, more preferably between 0.01 and 20%, even more preferentially between 0.1 and 10%, e.g. 5%. The lotions and creams according to the present invention generally contain a solution excipient system and one or more emollients. Lotions and creams typically contain between 1% and 50%, preferably between 1% and 20%, of emollient; between 50% and 90%, preferably between 60% and 80% water; the active ingredient, the additional active ingredient (s) for the skin care being at the concentrations detailed above. The creams are generally thicker than the lotions because of the larger amounts of emollients or the larger amounts of thickeners. The ointments may contain a simple carrier base (excipient) consisting of vegetable or animal oil or semi-solid hydrocarbon (oleaginous); an absorption base of the ointment which absorbs water to form an emulsion; or a water-soluble vector, for example a water-soluble solution vector. The ointments may additionally contain a thickening agent as described in Sagarin's Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 72-73 (1972), and / or an emollient. For example, an ointment may contain between 2% and 10% of an emollient; between 0.1% and 2% of a thickening agent, as well as the active ingredient and the additional active agent (s) in the proportions described above. The compositions according to the invention useful for cleaning ("washing") are formulated with a suitable excipient, ie, as described above, and preferentially contain, in addition to the active ingredient of the present invention and the additional active ingredient (s) in the proportions described above, between 1% and 90%, more preferably between 5% and 10%, of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant. The surfactant is suitably selected from anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and ampholytic surfactants, as well as mixtures thereof. Such surfactants are well known to those skilled in the art of detergency. Non-limiting examples of possible surfactants are isoceteth-20, sodium methylcocoyltaurate, sodium methyloloyltaurate and sodium laurilsulfate. See U.S. Patent 4,800,197, for examples of surfactants useful in the context of the present invention. Various examples of additional voltage-actives useful herein are described in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation. The cleaning compositions may optionally contain other substances that are conventionally used in the cleaning compositions. In the scope of the present invention, the term "foundation" refers to a cosmetic product for the skin, liquid, semi-liquid, semi-solid, or solid which includes, but is not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, pastes. , compact, and so on. The foundation is typically used on a large skin surface, such as the entire face, to provide a particular appearance. The foundations are conventionally used to provide an adherent base for colored cosmetics such as reds, blushes, powders, etc., and tend to hide the imperfections of the skin and provide a smoothing, even in appearance, of the skin. The foundations according to the present invention comprise a dermatologically acceptable excipient and may comprise conventional ingredients such as oils, dyes, pigments, emollients, perfumes, waxes, stabilizers, etc. Examples of excipients and other similar ingredients that can be used in the context of the present invention are described, for example, in PCT application WO 96/33689 and GB patent 2274585. B. Orally acceptable excipient The composition in the context of the present invention may also comprise an excipient orally acceptable in the case where she is ingested. Any orally inhalable excipient can be used. By way of non-limiting examples, mention may be made of tablets, pills, capsules, beverages, beverages, powders, syrups, granules, powders, vitamins, supplements and food supplements, health bars, sweets, chewing gum, and drops. C. Injectable Fluids The compositions of the present invention may also include a liquid acceptable for injection into / or under the skin if the composition is to be injected. III. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising laudanosine, and / or an analog thereof, and / or a plant extract containing it and a cosmetically acceptable excipient. The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods well known to those skilled in the art of making topical and oral compositions and compositions for injection. Such methods may be in one or more steps, with or without heating, cooling, etc. The physical form of the compositions according to the present invention is not important: they may be in any galenic form namely creams, lotions, ointments milks or creams, gels, emulsions, dispersions, solutions, suspensions, cleaners, foundations, anhydrous preparations (sticks, in particular lip balm, body and bath oils), shower gels and baths, shampoos and hair care lotions, milks or creams for the care of the skin or the hair, lotions or make-up removing milks, sun protection lotions, milks or creams, lotions, artificial tanning milks or creams, creams, mousses , gels or lotions for shaving, shaving, or aftershave, make-up, lipsticks, mascaras or nail polishes, skin "essences", serums, adhesive or absorbent materials, transdermal patches, or powders, lotions emollient milks, milks or creams, sprays, body and bath oils, foundation bases, ointment, emulsion, colloid, compact or solid suspension, pencil, sprayable formulation, brushable, blush, red, eyeliner , lipliner, lip gloss, face or body powder, mousse or styling gel, nail conditioner, lip balm, skin conditioners, moisturizers, lacquers, soaps, exfoliants, astringents, hair removal products permanent undulating solutions, anti-dandruff formulations , antiperspirant or antiperspirant compositions, deodorants, sprays for nose and so on. These compositions may also be in the form of sticks for the lips intended either to color or avoid chapped skin, or eye makeup products or makeup and makeup for the face. The compositions according to the invention include beauty products, personal care products and pharmaceutical preparations. It is also possible to envisage a composition in the form of a foam or in the form of aerosol compositions also comprising a propellant under pressure. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also be for oral use, for example a toothpaste. In this case, the compositions may contain adjuvants and additives customary for oral compositions and especially surfactants, thickeners, humectants, polishing agents such as silica, various active ingredients such as fluorides. , in particular sodium fluoride, and optionally sweetening agents are sodium saccharin. Laudanosine, its analogues or said plant extract containing it can be used in the form of solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, individually or premixed or is conveyed individually or in premix by vectors such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres, or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, macroeponges, microeponges or nanoepongs, microemulsions or nanoemulsions or adsorbed onto powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other inorganic or organic carriers. Laudanosine or plant extracts containing it and / or its analogs, as well as the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, may be used in any form, in a bound, incorporated or adsorbed form on macro, micro - and nanoparticles, or on macro-, micro-, and nanocapsules, for the treatment of textiles, natural or synthetic fibers, ires, and any materials intended to come into contact with the skin and which may be used in clothing, day or night underwear, tissues, or tissues, in order to exert its cosmetic effect through this skin / textile contact and to allow continuous topical delivery. IV. The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating wrinkles by topically applying to the skin an effective amount of a composition based on laudanosine and / or a plant extract containing it. in a physiologically acceptable medium as defined above. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for activating the mobilization of water by applying topically to the skin an effective amount of a composition containing laudanosine and / or a plant extract containing it. physiologically acceptable medium as defined above. The composition according to the invention can be applied locally to the areas of the face, neck, décolleté, hands or body. One of the great advantages of the present invention lies in the possibility of being able to proceed, whenever necessary or desirable, to very localized and selective "soft" treatments thanks to the topical application method. The present invention also relates to the use of laudanosine and / or a plant extract containing it for the manufacture of a medicament for treating the signs of skin aging such as wrinkles, deep and coarse wrinkles, fine lines, crevices, sagging of cutaneous and subcutaneous tissues, loss of skin elasticity and atony of skin texture, loss of firmness and tonicity, dermal atrophy. The present invention also relates to the use of laudanosine and / or a plant extract containing it for the manufacture of a medicament intended for a slimming action, and / or decongestant and anti-oedematous, and / or to block and / or decrease the water retention in cellulite. The present invention relates to the chemical, medical, cosmetic and skin care industries. As an illustration of the invention, several cosmetic formulations will be mentioned. These formulas are representative of the invention, but do not restrict it. V. Examples 2 A- Formulation Examples 1. Botox-like anti-aging day cream Ingredients% by weight Phase A H20 Qs 100 Ultrez 10 0.100 Phase B Glycerin 8,000 Phase C Volpo S 2 0.60010 Crodafos CES 4,000 DC 345 2,000 Crodamol GTCC 10,000 Methyl Paraben 0.300 Crill 3 1.600 Phase D Sorbate 0.100 Phase E Renovation (Teprenone (and) 1,000 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) Phase F Laudanosine 0.019 Phase G 30% NaOH 0.350 H2O 3.500 Phase H Perfume 0.100 Method: Phase A: Sprinkle Ultrez 10 in the water. Allow to swell for 20 minutes. Add phase B. Heat to 75 C in a water bath. Weigh out phase C. Heat to 75 C in a water bath. Mix well. With staro stirring v = 30% pour phase C into phase A + B. Extemporaneously, add the phase D. Pour the phase E, warmed to 60 C. Then add the phase E Well homogenize, then neutralize with the phase G towards 55 C. Extemporaneously, add the phase H towards 35 C

  This cream applied in the morning visibly reduces lines and wrinkles, thanks to its botoxlike effect the face is radiant and seems rejeuni 2. Anti-aging moisturizing gel Ingredients% by weight Phase A Demineralized water qs 100 Ultrez 10 (Carbomer) 0.2000 Phase B Glycerin 5, 0000 Methyl parabens 0.2000 Phase C Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.2000 Phase D Dermaxyl 2.0000 Crillet 1 (Polysorbate 20) 0.5000 Phase E Pemulen TR2 0.2000 DC 200 (Dimethicone) 2.0000 Phase F Potassium Sorbate 0.1000 Phase G Laudanosine 0.00950 Phase H Demineralized water 4.0000 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.4000 Phase I Perfume 0.1000 Dermaxyl is a product marketed by Sederma SAS (FR 2854897) promoting cellular communications, allowing smoothing traits. Method: Phase A: Sprinkle Ultrez 10 in water and allow to swell for 15 minutes. Mix Phase B at 60 ° C and allow to cool to 40 ° C. Mix Phase C with Phase B, homogenize. Add Phase B + C to Phase A to and allow to swell for 1 hour. Heat the Phase A + B + C to 60 C. Heat the assembly to C and add Phase D warmed to 80 C. Mix Phase E and extemporaneously, add it to previous Phases. Then add Phase F to 75 C and allow to swell for 1 hour. Pour the Phase G, homogenize well. Neutralize with Phase H at 50 C. Add Phase I to 35 C. Mix.

  This gel applied in the morning on the neckline, hands and neck smooths the tissues and brings suppleness and firmness.

  3. Restorative anti-aging night cream Ingredients% by weight Phase A Demineralized water qs 100 Ultrez 10 (Carbomer) 0.10000 10 Phase B Glycerin 5.00,00 Phase C Volpo S2 0,60000 Crodafos CES 4,00,000 Crodamol STS 4, 00000 Crodamol OSU 5.00 Crili 3 1.60000 Methyl Parabens 0.30000 Phase D Potassium Sorbate 0.10000 Phase E Demineralized Water 3.00000 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.30000 Phase F Laudanosine 0.00475 DHEA 5.00.00 Phase G Matrixyl 3000 3.00000 Phase H Perfume 0.10000 Matrixyl 3000 is a product marketed by Sederma SAS (US 2004/0132667) stimulating the neosynthesis of macromolecules involved in the extracellular matrix. Method: Phase A: Sprinkle Ultrez 10 in water and allow to swell for 20 minutes. Add Phase B to Phase A. Heat Phase A + B and Phase C separately at 75 C in a water bath.

  Mix. Pour Phase C into Phase A + B. Homogenize, then pour Phase D. Add Phase E to 60 C then Phase F. Towards 50 C add then Phase G, then Phase H towards 35 C.

  4. Lip balm Ingredients% by weight Phase A Castor Oil 5,000000 Crodamol PTIS Qsp 100 Syncrowax HRC 6,000000 Syncrowax ERLC 6,000000 5 Novol 9,000000 Crodacol C90 4,000000 Super Sterol Ester 2,000000 Carnauba wax 5 , 000000 Paraffin 4.000000 Phase B Laudanosine 0.000095 Crill 6 7.000000 Polyolprepolymer 14 5.000000 Perfume 0.100000 Method: Weigh the ingredients of Phase A. Heat to 80 C. Homogenize. Weigh the ingredients of Phase B. Homogenize and add them in Phase A. thoroughly homogenize.

  5. Hand cream Ingredients% by weight Phase A Demineralized water qs 100 Ultrez 10 (Carbomer) 0.15 Phase B Preservatives 0, 80 Glycerin 10.00 Phase C Crodacol C90 (cetyl alcohol) 3.00 Crill 3 3.00 Crillet 3 2.50 DC200 (dimethicone) 2.00 Shea butter (butyrospermum Parkii) 2.00 Crodamol GTCC 6.00 Phase D Potassium sorbate 0.10 Phase E Demineralized water 2.00 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.15 Phase F Laudanosine 0.000095 Phase G Matrix 3.00 Matrixyl 3000 Phase H Perfume 0.10 Method: Mix Phase A and allow to swell for 20 minutes. Homogenize Phase B and pour into Phase A. Heat Phase (A + B) at 75 C in a water bath. Heat Phase C to 75 C and pour into Phase (A + B). Pour Phase D extemporaneously. Homogenize. At 50 C pour the Phase E then the Phase F in the (A + B + C), add the Phase G, then the Phase H.

Homogenize.

  6. Aftershave gel Ingredients% by weight Phase A Demineralized water qs 100 Ultrez 10 (Carbomer) 0.20000 Phase B Glycerin 5.00 Methyl parabens 0.20 Phase C Crodamol IPP 2.00000 Cromollient DP3A 2, 00000 Tocopherol Acetate 0, 20000 Cithrol GMS AIS 1.0000 Phase D Pemulen TR2 0.20000 DC 200 (Dimethicone) 2.00000 Phase E Potassium Sorbate 0.10000 Phase F Demineralized Water 4.00000 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.40000 Phase G Laudanosine 0.00285 Phase H Calmosensine 2.00000 Phase I Chronodyn 2.00000 Phase J Birch sap 2.00000 Phase K Perfume 0.10000 Chronodyn is a product marketed by Sederma (FR0500431), which is particularly used for its cellular energizing properties. Calmosensine is a product marketed by Sederma (WO 98/07744) for reducing the sensation of incoort, tingling and heat. Birch sapTM is a product marketed by Sederma (WO 03/024418) having curative, toning and moisturizing properties. Method: Mix Phase A and allow to swell for 20 minutes. Mix Phase B and heat to 60 C until dissolved. Add Phase B to Phase A with mixing. Heat Phase A + Phase B to 75 C. Warm up Phase C and add it to Phase A + B. Homogenize. Extemporaneously, add Phase D mixing well. Add Phase E and neutralize with Phase F. To 60 C add Phase G. G. Homogenize. Add Phase H, homogenize. Add Phase I to 45 C warmed up. Finally add Phase J then Phase K to 35 C.

  7. Body Milk Energizer Ingredients% by weight Phase A Demineralized water qs 100 Ultrez 10 (Carbomer) 0.40000 Phase B Glycerin 5.00 Methyl parabens 0.20 Phase C Xanthan Gum 0.40000 Phase D Crillet 1 1, 00000 Crodacol CS90 0.50000 Crodamol AB 3.00000 Phase E DC345 3.00000 Pemulen TR2 0.20000 15 Phase F Potassium Sorbate 0.10000 Phase G Demineralized Water 4.00000 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.40000 Phase H Laudanosine 0.00475 Caffeine 5,00000 Phase I Kombuchka 3.00000 Phase J Perfume 0.10000 Kombuchka is a product marketed by Sederma (WO 2004/016250) which is particularly suitable for improving complexion radiance and smoothing the lines. Method: Mix Phase A and let it swell for 15 minutes. Mix Phase B and heat to 60 C until dissolved. Add Phase C to Phase B. Then mix Phase B + C with Phase A for 1 hour. Heat to 75 C in a water bath. Heat Phase D in a 75 C water bath. Homogenize Phase E. Pour Phase D and then Phase E into Phase A + B + C at 70 C. Homogenize and then pour in Phase F by mixing at 70 C. Add the Phase G to 60 C. Add Phase H. Add Phase I then Phase J to 35 C.

  1 0 8. Energizing cream for the bust Ingredients% by weight Phase A Demineralized water qs 100 Ultrez 10 (Carbomer) 0.4000 Phase B Glycerin 5.0000 Methyl parabens 0.2000 Phase C Crodamol GTCC 4.0000 Crodacol CS90 0.5000 Crodamol ML 0.3000 Crillet 1 0.5000 Phase D 1.0000 Cyclomethicone 2.0000 Pemulen TR2 0.2000 Phase E Potassium Sorbate 0.1000 Phase F Demineralized water 6.0000 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.6000 Phase H Laudanosine 0, 0095 Phase I BiobustylTM 3.0000 Phase J Perfume 0.1000 BiobustylTM is a product marketed by Sederma (FR2668365 and MO2004 / 101609) particularly suitable for firming and anti-fatigue treatments. Method: Mix Phase A and let it swell for 15 minutes. Mix Phase B and heat to 60 C until dissolved. Add PhaseB to Phase A. Heat Phase C to 75 C in a water bath. Heat Phase A + B in a 75 C water bath. Add Phase C to Phase A + B, then Phase D extemporaneously. Add Phase E. neutralize with Phase F to 60 C. Then Phase H is added to the previous Phases. Homogenize, then add h Phase I then Phase J to 35 C.

  1 0 9. Soothing anti-aging dry oil Ingredients% by weight Phase A DC 345 20,0000 Crodamol GTCC 20,0000 Crodamazon Buriti 1,0000 Seatons Apricot Kernel Oil 5,0000 Crodamol OS Qsp 100 Vegelan 3,0000 Alpha BISABOLOL natural 0, 2000 Phase B Laudanosine 0.0095 Phase C Fragrance 0.1000 Method: Weigh Phase A, mix with stirring. Add, with helical stirring, Phase B in Phase A. Thoroughly homogenize. Add Phase C.

  10 Activating capillary leave-on Ingredients% by weight Phase A Incroquat Behenyl TMC 3,000000 Phenyl Trimethicone 1.000000 Preservatives 0.200000 Phase B Potassium sorbate 0.100000 Demineralized water qs 100 Phase C Laudanosine 0.000095 Phase D PROCAPIL 3, 000000 Phase E Fragrance 0.100000 Phase F Demineralized water 0.250000 Sarcolactic acid 0.025000 This lotion is prepared as follows: Wear Phase A at 85 C. Carry Phase B at 85 C. Pour Phase A into the Phase B an agitating; well homogenize; add Phase C, cool to 35 C. Add Phase D and Phase E; adjust the pH to -5.5 with Phase F. This lotion promotes a better anchoring of the telogen hair in the dermis by a regeneration of the epithelial sheath. It slows down hair loss, stimulates regrowth and improves the "health" state of the hair follicles.

  11. Bust Cream Ingredients% by weight Phase A H2O QsplOO Ultrez 10 0.40000 Phase B Glycerin 3.00000 Panstat 0.30000 Phase C Crill 3 2.00000 Crodaderm S 2.00000 Marcol 82 2.00000 Cithrol GMS AS / NA 3 , 00000 Phase D Laudanosine 0.00285 Phase E Sorbate 0.10000 Phase F NaoH 30% 0.40000 H2O 4.00000 Phase G Volufilin (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 3.00000 (and) Anemarrhena) Phase H Perfume 0.10000 Method: weigh the Phase A and allow the ultrez to swell for 30 minutes, then allow Phase A to be heated to 75C bath. Weigh phase B, heat to complete dissolution, add phase B to phase A, homogenize, weigh phase C and heat to the bath 75 C. Weigh and add phase D in phase C, homogenize well; with staro stirring v = 300 rpm, pour phase C + D into phase A + B. Extemporaneously add phase G, homogenize well, add phase E, homogenize well. Neutralize with phase F towards 55 C, homogenize well, to 35 C add phase H, homogenize well, check the pH.

  12. Euphoric Mask Ingredients% by weight Phase A Ultrez 10 [Carbomer] 0.30000 Demineralized water 6.00000 Phase B Jaguar HP105 [Hydroxypropyl Guai.] 1.00000 Demineralized water qs 100 Phase C Methyl Paraben 0.20000 Butylene Glycol 5, 00000 Phase D Shea Butter [Butyrospermum Parkii] 2.00000 Phase E Pemulen TR2 [Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl 0.20 Acrylate Crosspolymer]] DC 345 [Cyclohexasiloxane] 4.00000 Phase F Potassium Sorbate 0.10000 Phase G Demineralized Water 4,50000 Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0,50000 Phase H Laudanosine 0,00285 Phase I Perfume 0,20000 Method: Disperse Ultrez 10 in water and allow to swell for 10 minutes. Disperse Jaguar HP105 in shaking water (s = 500 rpm). Pour Phase A into Phase B and heat to 75 C in a water bath. Weigh the Phase C and let it dissolve at 60 C. Weigh the Phase D and heat to 75 C in a water bath. Pour Phase D into Phase A + B with agitation (s = 300 rpm). At the same time, add Phase C, then Phase E, to Phase A + B + D. Add Phase F. Add Phase G and Phase H. Cool to 35 C Add Phase H. Mix well. pH = 6.50

  13. Body lift Ingredients% by weight Phase A Demineralized water Qs 100 Ultrez 10 (Carbomer) 0.40000 Phase B Glycerin 5.00.00 Methyl Paraben 0.20000 Phase C Xanthan Gum 0.40000 PhaseD Crillet 1 (Polysorbate 20) 1.0000 Crodacol CS90 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 0.50000 Crodamol AB (Alkyl Benzoate) 3.00000 Phase E DC 345 (Cyclohexasiloxane) 3.00000 Pemulen TR2 (Acrylates C 10-30 Alkyl 0.20000 Acrylate Crosspolymer) Phase F Potassium Sorbate 0.10000 Phase G Demineralized Water 5,00000 10N Sodium Hydroxide 0.60000 Phase H Laudanosine 0.00285 Phase I KOMBUCHKATM (Saccharomyces / Xylitum 3.00000 Black Tea Ferment (and) Gycerin (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose) Method: Disperse Ultrez 10 in the water and allow to swell 15 minutes. Heat Phase B until dissolved. Add Phase C to Phase B. Mix and add (B + C) to Phase A, stirring for 1 hour. Then heat to 75 C in a bain-marie. Weigh the Phase D and heat to 75 C in a water bath. Weigh and mix Phase E. Pour Phase D and Phase E into Phase (A + B + C) at 70 ° C with stirring. Homogenize well and add Phase F, stirring at 70 ° C. Then add Phase H Neutralize with Part G at about 45 ° C. Then add Part I at about 35 ° C.

  14. Gel and heavy legs Ingredients% by weight Phase A Demineralized water qs 100 Ultrez 10 (Carbomer) 0.50000 Phase B PEG 400 (PEG 8) 5.00 Phenova (Phenoxy ethanol and 0.80000 parabens) Phase C Pemulen TRI (C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.20000 Crosspolymer) DC 345 (Cyclohexasiloxane) 4.00000 Phase D 1.0000 Potassium Sorbate 0.10000 Sodium Disulfite 0.05000 Phase E Demineralized Water 7.00000 Sodium Hydroxide 10N 0.70000 Phase F PHYTOTONIN (Propylene glycol and 5.00 ml extract from Arnica Montana and extract from Cupressus Sempervirens root and Polygonatum Multiflorum extract) Phase G Laudanosine 0.00285 Phase H Perfume 0.10000 Method: Phase A: Sprinkle with 1 ultrez 10 in water and allow to swell for 15 minutes. Homogenize Phase B and mix with Phase A. Weigh and homogenize Phase C and add to Phase (A + B). Allow to swell for 1 hour. Weigh the Phase D and add it to the Phase (A + B + C). Mix Phase E and add it to Phase (A + B + C + D).

  Homogenize carefully. Add Phase F, then Phase G and H.

  This gel applied to the legs morning and evening, and whenever the need is felt effectively relieves the feeling of heavy legs and provides a feeling of lightness. 15. Anti-pocket gel under the eyes Ingredients% by weight Phase A Demineralized water qs 100 Ultrez 10 (Carbomer) 0.20000 Phase B Glycerin 5.00.00 Preservatives qs Phase C Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.20000 Phase D Pemulen TR2 (Acrylates / C 10- Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) 0.20000 Crodamol CAP (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) 6.00000 Phase E Potassium Sorbate 0.10000 Phase F Demineralized Water 4.00000 Sodium Hydroxide 38% 0.46000 Phase G Laudanosine 0.00285 Phase H Crillet 1 (Polysorbate 20) 0.50000 Perfume qs Method: Phase A: Sprinkle 1 ultrez 10 in water and allow to swell for 15 minutes. Heat the glycerin to 60 C, dissolve the preservatives. Cool to 40 C. Add Phase C to Phase B, homogenize, then add Phase B + C to Phase A with agitation. Allow to swell for one hour. Add Phase D, then Phase E to Phase (A + B + C), homogenize. Neutralize with Phase H. Allow to swell for one hour. Incorporate Phase G, homogenize, then add phase H.

  This gel applied to the eye contour in the morning and at any time of the day if the need is felt deflates the pockets, fades dark circles, tones the eyelids, softens and soothes the eye. .

  B. In vitro tests: Relaxation of skin micro-contractions 1 Principle The nerve-muscle co-culture is a culture model that recreates innervation of human striated muscle cells with explants of spinal cord and spinal ganglia. rat embryo. After 21 days of culture, the muscle fibers formed contract spontaneously. The 24-well miniaturized nerve-muscle co-culture model developed by Bio Expertise Technologies is ideally suited to study the influence of laudanosine on the frequency of muscle contractions. A-bungarotoxin is used as a positive control for irreversible blockage of the frequency of muscle contractions. Laudanosine is screened at two (2) concentrations on nerve-muscle co-cultures in order to evaluate its activity on the modulation of the contraction frequency. Laudanosine is tested in 3 separate wells for each concentration. The contraction frequency is evaluated after 5 minutes of incubation. 2 Protocol a. Isolation and innervation of human muscle cells (SOP BI00019 and SOP BI00020) The human muscle cells (satellite cells) used are derived from samples of healthy striated muscle seeded in culture plates of 24 wells (1.8 cm surface area). In order to obtain a contractile culture model, spinal cord explants obtained from rat embryo containing the spinal ganglia are deposited on the monolayer of muscle cells. Neurite growth is visible outside the spinal cord explant after 1 day of culture. The first contractions of the muscle fibers are observed after 5 to 6 pure co-cultures and after three weeks all the muscle fibers in the vicinity of the explants contract. Co-cultures are used after 21 days, when the muscle fibers are striated and have differentiated mature neuromuscular junctions. b. Preparation of products for testing Laudanosine is tested at different concentrations in three separate culture wells. Abungarotoxin is directly diluted in the culture medium. For products soluble in a vehicle organic solvent, 1000X stock solutions are made in the vehicle (MS). A dilution range is then achieved in the vehicle, each concentration is then 1000X (DVS). Then, a 1/1000 dilution [0.1% 1 final (non-cytotoxic concentration for neuronabs cells) is used.

  Table 1 Laudanosine and test concentrations Product Concentrations Support Laudanosine 30 M, 45 M DMSO c. Quantification of the frequency modulation of muscle contractions The study is conducted over 3 days (D1 to D3). Laudanosine is tested on 3 separate wells. For the screening of laudanosine, the least concentrated solution is always tested first. For each selected culture well, a muscle fiber showing regular contractions is referenced; its coordinates (x, y) in the culture well are recorded by means of image analysis software. The number of contractions is counted for 30 seconds (pre-incubation frequency). The least concentrated laudanosine solution is added to the culture well without moving the microscope plate. After five (5) minutes of incubation, the contraction number is recorded again for 30 seconds.

  At this stage of screening different options are then possible depending on the observed response: - if no modulation is observed for 3 out of 3 fibers, the well is washed with the culture medium, the product is immediately added to the next concentration more concentrated and the contraction frequencies are counted after 5 minutes of incubation (the same pre-incubation frequency values are kept). - If the contraction frequency decreases for at least 1 fiber out of 3, the 3 wells are washed and placed at 37C for at least one (1) hour. Then, the contraction number is again counted for 30 seconds (pre-incubation frequency), laudanosine is added at the higher concentration and the contraction frequencies are counted after 5 minutes of incubation. - If the contraction frequencies are blocked for at least 2 fibers out of 3, then the screening is stopped.

Results The results are expressed as a percentage of muscle contractions compared to the contractions before incubation of laudanosine (expressed at 100%). The analysis of the frequency of muscle contractions reveals a tendency when at least two fibers out of three have the same effect according to the following modulation: the contraction frequency when it is not modified is noted 0 (percentage of 20 contractions greater than or 80% in relation to the frequency of preincubation before addition of laudanosine), when the frequency of contractions is less than 80% with respect to the frequency of pre-incubation before addition of laudanosine, we speak of a reduction of contraction frequency, noted -.

For all tests, the validity check of the test is the influence of a-bungarotoxin on the frequency of contractions. The dilution solvent of the molecules, the vehicle, other than the culture medium, is tested at the appropriate dilution on cocultures. Table 2: Variation of the frequency of muscular contractions (in%) after incubation of a-bungarotoxin and negative controls vehicle culture medium, in three separate wells. Controls [CI Day Contraction% Contraction rate modulation DMSO 1/1000 J 1 89 0 108 0 89 0 99 0 J2 105 0 85 0 0 Block J1 0 Block 0 Block a-bungarotoxin 5 M 0 Block J2 0 Block 0 Block After 5 minutes of incubation, for the days D1 and D2 the culture medium with the DMSO 1/1000 does not modulate the frequency of the contractions of 3 muscle fibers on the three. After 5 minutes of incubation, for days 1 and 2, the? -Bungarotoxin tested at 5M blocks the contraction frequencies of 3 (three) muscle fibers on three fibers. Table 3: Variation of muscular contractions (in%) after 5 minutes of incubation in the presence of laudanosine compared to contractions before incubation. Product Concentration Contraction% Modulation of contraction rate LAU 30 M 2 - 24 - 0 Block 45 M 0 Block 0 Block 0 Block After 5 minutes of incubation, laudanosine at 30 M decreases muscular contractions 1 0 for every 3 fibers out of 3, with blocking of a fiber. After 5 minutes of incubation, laudanosine 45 M blocks muscle contractions for three (3) fibers out of 3.5

Claims (17)

  1. Cosmetic use of laudanosine or an analogue thereof or of a plant extract containing it, alone or in combination with at least one other active ingredient usually used in cosmetics for the preparation of a cosmetic composition intended for topical application .   2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that laudanosine or the plant extract containing it are intended to improve the general condition of the skin.   3. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that laudanosine is intended to act as a ligand for muscarinic and / or nicotinic receptors, and / or Gaba A and / or Gaba B.   4. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that laudanosine or the plant extract containing it are intended to eliminate and / or reduce the clinical signs of skin aging such as wrinkles, deep wrinkles and coarse, fine lines, cracks, sagging skin and subcutaneous tissues, loss of skin elasticity and atony, loss of firmness and tone, skin atrophy. 20   5. Cosmetic use according to claims 1 to 2 characterized in that the laudanosine or the plant extract containing it activates the mobilization of water in the skin tissue.   6. Cosmetic use of laudanosine or a plant extract containing it according to claim 5 characterized in that they are intended for a slimming action, and / or decongestant and anti oedematous, and / or to block and / or to reduce the water retention in cellulite.   7. Cosmetic use according to claim 5, characterized in that laudanosine or the plant extract containing it are intended to combat the sensation of heavy legs.   8. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that laudanosine is obtained from any source of supply, in particular by means of chemical hemi-synthesis, chemical synthesis, enzymatic, by one of the many methodologies of biotechnology, by plant extraction especially from Argemone grandiflora or Papaver somniferum and preferably by synthesis or chemical hemisynthesis.   9. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that laudanosine or the plant extract containing it are combined with at least one product already known to have activity in the field of anti-wrinkles such as vitamins. , phytosterols, flavonoids, DHEA and / or one of its precursors or one of its chemical or biological derivatives, a metalloproteinase inhibitor, a retinoid.   10. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that laudanosine or one of its analogues or the plant extract containing it are associated with at least one product already known to have an activity in the body. slimming field such as xanthine bases and more particularly caffeine, theobromine, aminophylline, theophylline, xanthine, plant extracts containing them, and their mixture. 20   11. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that laudanosine or the plant extract containing it are present in an amount of between 0.00001 and 50%, preferably between 0.00001% and 20%, and more preferentially between 0.0001% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 25   12. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that laudanosine or the plant extract containing it is in the form of a solution, a dispersion, an emulsion, a paste or a powder, individually or in pre-treatment. mixture or is transported individually or pre-mixed by vectors such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres, or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, macro-sponges, micro-sponges or nanoepongs, microemulsions or nanoemulsions or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other inorganic or organic substrates.   13. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said composition is in any galenical form namely creams, lotions, ointments milks or creams, gels, emulsions, dispersions, solutions, suspensions, cleaners, foundations , anhydrous preparations (sticks, in particular lip balm, body and bath oils), shower and bath gels, shampoos and hair care lotions, milks or creams for the care of the skin or hair, anti-sun protection lotions or lotions, sunscreen lotions or lotions, lotions, artificial tanning milks or creams, shaving creams or foams, aftershave lotions, lipsticks, mascaras or nail polishes, skin "essences", serums, Adhesive or absorbent materials, transdermal patches, or powders.   14. Cosmetic process for treating the signs of skin aging consisting in applying, topically to the skin, an effective amount of a composition based on laudanosine and / or a plant extract containing it according to claim 1. 5 previous.   15. Cosmetic process for activating the mobilization of water consisting in applying topically to the skin an effective amount of a composition based on laudanosine and / or a plant extract containing it according to any one of the claims. preceding. 20   16. Use of laudanosine and / or a plant extract containing it for the manufacture of a medicament for treating signs of skin aging such as wrinkles, deep and coarse wrinkles, fine lines, cracks, sagging of skin and subcutaneous tissues, loss of skin elasticity and atony of skin texture, loss of firmness and tonicity, dermal atrophy.   17. Use of laudanosine and / or a plant extract containing it for the manufacture of a medicament intended for a slimming action, and / or decongestant and anti oedematous, and / or to block and / or reduce the retention of water in the dimples.