FR2908302A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful e.g. for make up or non-therapeutic care of eyelashes and as mascara for eyelash make up, comprises aqueous phase and emulsifier system - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic eyelash coating composition comprises an aqueous phase and an emulsifier system, where the emulsifier system comprises at least one surfactant comprising an association of at least one fatty acid having 16-30 carbon and at least one basic amino acid, at least a glutamic acid derivative and/or its salts, at least a derivative of sarcosine or its salts and/or a glycine derivative or its salts and the association of fatty acid and basic amino acid, glutamic acid derivative, sarcosine derivative and/or glycine derivative comprises main surfactant system of the composition. Cosmetic eyelash coating composition comprises an aqueous phase and an emulsifier system, where the emulsifier system comprises at least one surfactant comprising association of at least one fatty acid having 16-30 carbon and at least one basic amino acid, at least a glutamic acid derivative and/or one of its salts, at least a derivative of sarcosine of formula (CH 3-N(R)-CH 2-COOH) or its salts and/or a glycine derivative or its salts, and the association of fatty acid and the basic amino acid, glutamic acid derivative, sarcosine derivative and/or the glycine derivative comprises a main surfactant system of the composition. R : O=CR1a; and R1a : 10-30C hydrocarbon chain.

Description

1 This application relates to the field of make-up or skincare

  eyelashes or mascaras. The eyelash coating compositions such as mascaras are generally makeup compositions, compositions for applying to a make-up (also called top-coat), or cosmetic eyelash care compositions. Mascaras are especially prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras called cream mascaras, in the form of dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous mascaras or low-water mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.

  The present application relates more specifically to aqueous mascaras. The application of mascara makes it possible to increase the volume of the eyelashes and consequently to increase the intensity of the gaze. For this, there are many thickening or volumizing mascaras whose principle is to deposit the maximum material on the eyelashes so as to obtain a volumizing effect (or charging).

  It is in particular through the quantity of solid particles (in particular waxes which make it possible to structure the composition) that the desired application specificities for the compositions can be adjusted, for example their fluidity or consistency, as well as their thickening power (also called power charging or makeup). These solid particles are dispersed in the cream mascara using a surfactant system. Among the emulsifiers or conventional emulsifying systems, there are emulsifying systems based on triethanolamine stearate.

  The problem posed in the present application is to propose a mascara in which not only the waxes but also the pigments are homogeneously dispersed, said mascara having a sufficiently thick texture to obtain a charging deposit, volumizing on the eyelashes, and having a consistency satisfactory allowing easy application to the eyelashes and a smooth and homogeneous deposit.  Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors of the present application solved this problem by means of an emulsifying system comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts.  The inventors of the present application have observed that the emulsifying system defined in the present application allows a good dispersion of the pigments and / or waxes, this dispersion is of the quality of those obtained with emulsifying systems based on stearate. triethanolamine.  This composition makes it possible to obtain a make-up loading the eyelashes and a satisfactory consistency compatible with obtaining a smooth and homogeneous deposit on said fibers.  The compositions according to the invention may have a viscoelastic behavior.  In general, a material is said to be viscoelastic when, under the effect of shearing, it has both the characteristics of an elastic material, ie capable of storing energy and the characteristics of a material. viscous material, ie able to dissipate energy.  The viscoelastic behavior of the compositions according to the invention may be more particularly characterized by its rigidity modulus G.  This parameter is defined in particular in the book "Initiation à la rheologie", G.  Couarraze and J. L.  Grossiord, 2nd edition, 1991, Edition Lavoisier-Tec 1 Doc.  The measurements are carried out on an imposed stress rheometer, RS 600 from ThermoRheo, equipped with a thermostatic bath and a stainless steel mobile with a cone / plane geometry, with a diameter of 35 mm and an angle of 2.  Both surfaces are sandblasted to limit slippage to the walls.  The measurements are made at 25 ° C.  The dynamic measurements are made by applying a harmonic variation of the stress.  In these experiments, the amplitudes of the shear stress (denoted r) and the shear strain (denoted y) are small so as to remain within the limits of the linear viscoelastic domain of the composition (conditions making it possible to evaluate the rheological characteristics resting composition).  The viscoelastic linear domain is generally defined by the fact that the response of the material (i. e.  the deformation) is at any moment directly proportional to the value of the applied force (i. e.  the constraint).  In this field, the applied stresses are small and the material undergoes deformations without modifying its microscopic structure.  Under these conditions, the material is studied at rest and non-destructively.  The composition is subjected to a harmonic shear according to a stress' r (t) sinusoidally varying according to a pulsation w (w = 2flv), where v is the applied shear frequency.  The composition thus sheared undergoes a stress' r (t) and responds to a deformation y (t) corresponding to micro-deformations for which the modulus of rigidity varies little as a function of the imposed constraint.  The stress r (t) and the strain y (t) are respectively defined by the following relations: ## EQU1 ## where ro is the maximum amplitude of the stress and yo is the maximum amplitude of the strain.  Elasticity b is the phase shift angle between stress and strain.  The measurements are made at a frequency of 1 Hz (v = 1 Hz).  Increasing stresses are applied to the sample starting from an initial stress equal to 0.01 Pa to arrive at a final stress of 1000 Pa, the stresses being applied only once.  The evolution of the modulus of rigidity G (corresponding to the ratio of 'ro over 20 yo) and of the elasticity b (corresponding to the phase shift angle of the stress applied with respect to the measured strain) is thus measured as a function of the constraint 'r (t) applied.  In particular, the deformation of the composition is measured for the stress zone in which the variation of modulus of rigidity G and of elasticity b is less than 7% (zone of microdeformations) and the parameters known as plateaux Gp 25 and bp.  The composition has, for example, a modulus of plateau rigidity Gp greater than or equal to 10 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 50 Pa, up to 106 Pa and better up to 5. 106Pa.  A first object of the present application is a cosmetic composition for coating the eyelashes comprising an aqueous phase and an emulsifying system comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, said derivative or its salt being present in a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  A second object of the present application is a non-therapeutic make-up or care process for the eyelashes comprising the application on said eyelashes of the composition according to the present application.  A third object of the present application relates to the uses of the composition according to the present application, in particular the use of this composition to obtain a homogeneous makeup and / or volume of the eyelashes.  Other features, properties and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and the examples which follow.  Emulsifying system The emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt of said derivative.  The salt or glutamic acid derivative may be, for example, chosen from acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid), their salts (glutamates) and their mixtures, preferably from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 20 to 20 carbon atoms. 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid and alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids.  Mention may in particular be made of the compounds bearing the INCI name lauroyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.  Such compounds are marketed under the name Amisoft by the company Ajinomoto and especially under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or marketed by Keminova Italiana SRL.  As salt of glutamic acid derivative, there may also be mentioned disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that marketed under the reference Amisoft HS-21 by the company Ajinomoto.  Commercial surfactant mixtures comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, such as for example the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by Ajinomoto, may also be mentioned. .  The glutamic acid derivatives and their salts may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 15% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.  Preferably the glutamic acid derivatives and their salts constitute the main surfactant system of the composition.  By main surfactant system is meant a system which, in its absence, does not lead to the formation of a stable composition.  By stable is meant a composition which, after being placed in an oven at 45 C for two months, does not show, after return to ambient temperature, grains perceptible to the touch when a thin layer of the composition is sheared between fingers.  Advantageously, the glutamic acid derivatives and their salts constitute the only surfactant system of the composition.  By single is meant that any additional surfactant system is present in a content not exceeding 1%, and preferably not exceeding 0.5%.  More preferably, the term "single" denotes a total absence of any other surfactant system.  The composition according to the invention naturally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.  By compound or physiologically acceptable medium within the meaning of the present application means a compound or medium whose use is compatible with an application on the eyelashes.  Aqueous Phase The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which can form the continuous phase of the composition.  By aqueous continuous phase composition is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C., greater than or equal to 23 μS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a conductivity meter. MPC227 from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity cell.  The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell.  The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductivity meter is stabilized.  An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements.  The aqueous phase comprises water and / or at least one water-soluble solvent.  By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 C and atmospheric pressure).  The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile.  Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.  The aqueous phase (water and optionally the solvent miscible with water) is generally present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 25% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 60% by weight.  The emulsifier system may further contain at least one additional surfactant suitably selected for obtaining a wax emulsion in water or oil-in-water.  In particular, it is possible to use an emulsifier having at 25 ° C. an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) balance in the Griffin sense, greater than or equal to 8.  These additional surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants or surfactant emulsifiers.  Reference can be made to "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, 2908302 KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 5th edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p.  347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.  These additional surfactants may be preferentially chosen from: a) nonionic surfactants with a HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made in particular of: oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol; Oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 20 to 1000 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8-C24, and preferably of C12-C18) alcohols, such as oxyethylenated ether; oxyethylenated cetearyl alcohol (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), oxyethylenated ether of oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (CTFA name "Steareth-20") such as BRIJ 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA, the oxyethylenated ether of cetyl alcohol with oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "C12- Pareth-7- marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7 by SHELL CHEMICALS, - fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22) and polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) such as stea PEG-50 spleen and PEG-40 monostearate marketed under the name MYRJ 52P by the company ICI UNIQEMA; fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene groups), such as the monostearate of PEG-200 glyceryl sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT S sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, the polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT O sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product VARIONIC LI 13 sold by the company SHEREX, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT L sold by GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT 1 from 2908302 8 the company GOLDSCHMIDT, the fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), such as polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60 r the company UNIQUEMA, - dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220 by Dow Corning, - dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101 and 201 from the company FINTEX), 10 - the oxide copolymers propylene and ethylene oxide, also called EO / PO polycondensates, and mixtures thereof.  The EO / PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates.  These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure: H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) (O-CH (CH 3) -CH 2) b- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) a-OH, in which a is from 2 at 120, and b is from 1 to 100.  The EO / PO polycondensate preferably has a weight average molecular weight of from 1000 to 15000, and more preferably from 2000 to 13000.  Advantageously, said EO / PO polycondensate has a cloud temperature, at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 ° C., preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C.  The cloud temperature is measured according to ISO 1065.  As polycondensate 25 EO / PO usable according to the invention, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the names SYNPERONIC such as SYNPERONIC PE / L44 ('and SYNPERONIC PE / F127 by the company ICI.  b) nonionic surfactants with a HLB of less than 8 to 25 ° C., optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with a HLB of greater than 8 to 25 ° C., as mentioned above, such as: esters and ethers dies such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and mixtures thereof such as Arlatone 2121 sold by the company ICI; Esters of fatty acids (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably of C16-C22) and of polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312 by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate; the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C by the company Dow Corning.  c) anionic surfactants such as: salts of C16-C30 fatty acids, especially those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate and / or 2-amino-2-methyl-propane diol stearate; 1.3; but preferably the composition according to the present application does not comprise less than 1% of triethanolamine stearate; salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof; Phosphoric esters and their salts, such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N 10N from CRODA) or monocotyl monopotassium phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan); alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate; isethionates; And their mixtures.  The composition according to the invention may also contain, in addition to the glutamic acid derivative, one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate and amine oxides. such as stearamine oxide or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100 by the company Phoenix Chemical.  In the composition according to the invention, the total content of surfactants may range from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 20% and better still from 2 to 15% by weight. .  According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present application comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine, and better still is free of triethanolamine.  According to one variant, the cosmetic composition according to the present application comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine stearate, and better still is free of triethanolamine stearate.  According to one embodiment, the composition further comprises a co-surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.  By fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms is meant any pure fatty alcohol, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.  A fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, is preferably used.  Mention may in particular be made, as fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition, of lauryl, myristic, cetyl, stearyl, oleic, cetearyl (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenic and erucic alcohols and mixtures thereof.  Cetyl alcohol is preferably used.  Such fatty alcohols are in particular marketed under the name NAFOL by the company SASOL.  The fatty alcohol may be present in a content ranging from 0.2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  Wax (s) The composition according to the present application advantageously comprises at least one wax.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 30 ° C. at 120 C.  The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D. S. vs. ), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 30 by the company METLER.  The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.  In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature greater than 25 C and better still greater than 45 C.  The wax may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 1 to 40% and more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.  In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, Fisher-Tropsch synthesis waxes and waxy copolymers and their esters.  Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.  Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference ISO-JOJOBA- 50, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name " HEST 2T-4S "by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetraprenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.  Mention may also be made of silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms and fluorinated waxes.  It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with the stearyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or else the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with the cetyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73", by the company SOPHIM.  Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.  According to a particular embodiment, the compositions in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one so-called sticky wax, that is to say having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.  The use of a tacky wax may in particular make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which is easily applied to the eyelashes, having good adhesion to the eyelashes and which leads to the formation of a smooth, homogeneous makeup. thickening.  The tacky wax used may in particular have a tack ranging from 0.7 N. s to 30 N. s, in particular greater than or equal to 1 N. s, in particular ranging from 1 N. s to 20 N. s, in particular greater than or equal to 2 N. s, in particular ranging from 2 N. s to 10 N. s, and in particular ranging from 2 N. s to 5 N. s.  The stickiness of the wax is determined by measuring the evolution of the force (compression force or stretching force) as a function of time at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name "TA" -TX2i "by the company RHEO, equipped with a conical acrylic polymer mobile forming an angle of 45.  The measurement protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the + 10 C wax.  The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep.  The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before measuring the adhesive.  The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.5 mm / s, then penetrates the wax to a depth of penetration of 2 mm.  When the mobile penetrated into the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.  During the relaxation time, the force (compressive force) decreases sharply until it becomes zero and then, upon removal of the mobile, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increases again to the value 0.  The tights correspond to the integral of the force vs time curve for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force (stretching force).  The value of the tights is expressed in N. s.  The tacky wax which can be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, especially ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, or even from 0 , 1 MPa at 2.5 MPa.  The hardness is measured according to the protocol described above.  As the tacky wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in admixture, in particular 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy), may be used. C20-C40 alkyl stearate, of formula (II): wherein m is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (II): ## STR2 ## .  Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P and Kester Wax K 80 P by the company Koster Keunen.  The waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point of less than 45 ° C.  The microcrystalline wax marketed under the reference SP18 can also be used by the company STRAHL and PITSCH which has a hardness of approximately 0.46 MPa and a tack value of approximately 1 N. s.  The wax (es) may be present in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax.  By aqueous wax microdispersion is meant an aqueous dispersion of wax particles, wherein the size of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm.  Microdispersions of wax are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are especially described in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L. Mr.  Prince Ed. , Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.  In particular, these microdispersions of wax can be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and possibly a portion of the water, and then gradually adding hot water with stirring.  The intermediate formation of a water-in-oil emulsion is observed, followed by a phase inversion with final obtaining of an oil-in-water type microemulsion.  On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal particles of wax is obtained.  The microdispersions of wax can also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, the high-pressure homogenizer, the turbines.  The particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μm (in particular ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm), preferably less than 0.5 μm (especially ranging from 0.06 μm to 0.5 μm).  These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes.  However, they may comprise, in a minor proportion, oily and / or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and / or a usual fat-soluble additive / active agent.  The compositions according to the present application may also contain at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming polymer.  In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of a film-forming auxiliary agent, a macroscopically continuous and adherent film on the eyelashes, and preferably a cohesive film, and more preferably a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolatable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said film is made by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.  In general, the "film-forming polymer" content of the compositions according to the present application ranges from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 0.5 to 30% and better still from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight The hydrophilic film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer or may be dispersed in an aqueous medium.  Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.  Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; Cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose; acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; Vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers, gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.  The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, generally known as latex or pseudolatex.  The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.  As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90, Neocryl A-1070, Neocryl A-1090, Neocryl BT-62, Neocryl A-1079 and Neocryl A-523 by the company AVECIANEORESINS, Dow Latex 432 by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD or Daitosol 5000 SJ by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 by the company 10 Interpolymer Allianz Opt by Rohm and Haas or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981 and Neorez R-974 by the company Avecia-Neoresins, the Avalure UR-405, Avalure UR -410, Swallow UR-425, Avalure UR-450, Sancure 875, Avalure UR-445 and Sancure 2060 by the company NOVEON, Impranil 85 by the company 15 BAYER, Aquamere H-1511 by the company HYDROMER; sulfopolyesters sold under the trade name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM, aqueous polyvinyl acetate dispersions such as "Vinybran" from Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by Union Carbide, aqueous dispersions of terpolymer vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride such as Styleze W-ISP, aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those sold under the references "Hybridur" by the company AIR PRODUCTS or "Duromer" of NATIONAL STARCH, the core / shell type dispersions: for example those marketed by ATOFINA under the reference Kynar (core: fluoréshell: acrylic) or those described in US 5,188,899 (core; shell: silicone) and their mixtures.  The lipophilic polymer may be in solution or in dispersion in a non-aqueous solvent phase. The compositions according to the present application may also contain at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, they may be chosen from: homo or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names Versicolol F or Versicolol K by the company Allied Colloid, UTRAHOLD 8 by 2908302 16 the company Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylic acids of the type SYNTHALEN K, - the copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company HENKEL, polyacrylic acid / copolymers PEMULEN type alkyl acrylates, - AMPS (Polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLARIANT, - AMPS copolymers / acrylamide type SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL sold by the company SEPPIC, and - polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or not), and mixtures thereof.  Associative polyurethanes, such as the C16-OE120-C16 polymer from the company Servo Delden (sold under the name SER AD FX1100, urethane functional molecule and the weight average molecular weight of 1300), EO being an oxyethylenated unit, the rheolate 205 with urea function sold by RHEOX or else the Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being vensus in pure form) or the DW 1206B 20 from RHOM & HAAS with C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, sold at 20% by weight. active ingredient in water.  It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium.  By way of example, such polymers include SER AD fx1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from SERVO DELDEN, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by RHEOX. .  It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from Rhom & Haas, or even Borchigel LW 44 from Borchers, and their mixtures.  Certain water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above may also act as water-soluble gelling agents.  The hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5. at 15% by weight.  The compositions according to the present application may also contain at least one or more oils or organic solvent.  By oil or organic solvent is meant a nonaqueous body liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.  The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.  For the purposes of the invention, the term "oil or volatile organic solvent" means any nonaqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.  The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.13 Pa. at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa. Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).  By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).  The oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.05 to 30%, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  The composition according to the invention may comprise volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.  The volatile oils (or organic solvents) may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms.  The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane. (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names "Isopars" or "permetyls", branched esters in C8 -C16, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.  Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name "Shell Solt" by Shell, can also be used.  As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 6 centistokes (6. 10-6 m2 / s), and having in particular 3 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally having one or more alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 or 2 carbon atoms.  As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, and the like. decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.  It is also possible to use volatile organic solvents, especially fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxy butane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.  Each of the compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one nonvolatile organic oil or solvent, which may be chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils.  Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, - the ethers

  synthetic having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RICOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols 2908302 or polyalcohols such as propylene dioctanoate; glycol; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; 10 and mixtures thereof. The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in one or other of the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; The fluorinated oils that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752. The content of oil or non-volatile organic solvent in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 25% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff such as pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes and water-soluble dyes. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5 , the yellow quinoline, the annatto.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler. The fillers may be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, such as the nylon sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem, poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, and tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders such as Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as those sold under the name Expancel by Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those marketed under the name Polytrap by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrochloric acid. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (MAPRECOS Silica Beads), glass or glass microcapsules organic metal derivatives derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. It is also possible to use a compound capable of swelling with heat and in particular thermally expandable particles such as unexpanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer or of acrylonitrile homopolymer copolymer, for example those 2908302 21 sold respectively under the references Expancel 820 DU 40 and Expancel 007WU by the company AKZO NOBEL. The fillers may represent from 0.1 to 25%, in particular from 0.2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one fiber which makes it possible to improve the lengthening effect. By "fiber" it is necessary to understand an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, in particular from 5 to 500, and more particularly from 5 to 150. The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be fibers of synthetic or natural origin, mineral or organic. They can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided, hollow or full. Their shape can be any and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury. In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more particularly from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their section may be in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, in particular ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm and more particularly from 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or titer of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in gram for 9 km of yarn. The fibers according to the invention may in particular have a title chosen in the range from 0.15 to 30 denier and in particular from 0.18 to 18 denier. The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they may be of synthetic or natural origin, mineral or organic. Furthermore, the fibers may or may not be treated on the surface, coated or uncoated, colored or unstained. As fibers usable in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide (nylon) fibers or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers such as those sold under the name KERMEL, KERMEL TECH by RHODIA or poly- (p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) sold especially under the name Kevlar by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS.

The fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight. weight, and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight. The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.

As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, thickeners, coalescers, plasticizers, moisturizers, vitamins and filters especially solar, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.

Preferably the composition according to the invention is rinsed. The composition according to the invention may be packaged in a container defining at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closure element.

The container is preferably associated with an applicator, particularly in the form of a brush having a bristle arrangement held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, in particular obtained by molding. Such combs are described, for example, in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be integral with the receptacle, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959. Advantageously, the applicator is secured to a rod which, same, is integral with the closure element.

The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure member and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, or clamping. By "snapping" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of Said portion after crossing the bead or cord. The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy). The container is preferably equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening 10 of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618. The following examples are given as an illustration of the present invention, and can not limit the scope. Examples The following compositions were made. The amounts indicated are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 Mascara - Beeswax 30% - Sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-11 P 25 by Ajinomoto) 5% - Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.89% Antifoam (simethicone) 0.4% - Preservatives qs - water qs 100 30 Example 2: Mascara - Paraffin wax - Sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-11 P 35 by Ajinomoto) - Hydroxyethylcellulose 15 20 25% 5% 0.89% 2908302 24 Pigments (iron oxide) 5% - Antifoam (simethicone) 0.4% - Preservatives qs - water qs Example 3 Mascara - Beeswax 30% - Disodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-21 P 10 - Ajinomoto) 5% - hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.89% - Antifoam (simethicone) 0.4% - preservatives qs - water qs 100 15 Example 4 : Mascara - Candelilla wax 25% - Disodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-21 P 20 from Ajinomoto) 5% -Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.89% - Pigments (iron oxide) 5% Antifoam (simethicone) 0.4% - Preservatives 25 - water The module of rigidity G * of each of the compositions is measured according to the protocol described above. Results Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 G * (in Pa) 16000 230 250 4000 The mascaras of Examples 1 to 4 have a satisfactory consistency and a good dispersion of waxes and pigments, as sought for this type of product. These mascaras are easily applied to the eyelashes and form a loading deposit, smooth and 5 qs qs 100 30 25

Claims (19)

  Cosmetic eyelash coating composition comprising an aqueous phase and an emulsifying system, characterized in that the emulsifying system comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, said derivative and / or its salt being present in a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the glutamic acid derivative or its salt is selected from acyl glutamic acids, their salts and mixtures thereof.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the glutamic acid derivative is chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.   4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glutamic acid derivative is chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. 20   5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that glutamic acid derivative or its salt is selected from lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid and metal salts. alkali such as Na, Li, K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids. 25   6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that glutamic acid derivative or its salt is selected from lauroyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate , disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, and mixtures thereof. 2908302 27   7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glutamic acid derivatives or their salts are present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 15% by weight and better from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glutamic acid derivatives or their salts constitute the main surfactant system of the composition. 10   9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glutamic acid derivatives or their salts constitute the only surfactant system of the composition.   10. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine, and better still, is free of triethanolamine.   11. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine stearate. and better, is free of triethanolamine stearate.   12. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase is formed of water or a mixture of water and at least one water-soluble solvent.   13. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3 to 30%. at 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 60% by weight.   14. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises at least one wax 5 2908302 28   15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight. and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight.   16. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming polymer and / or at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. 10   17. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises at least one additive selected from oils, dyestuffs, fillers, fibers, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, thickeners, coalescing agents, plasticizers, moisturizers, vitamins and filters, especially sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.   18. A method of makeup or non-therapeutic care of the eyelashes comprising the application on said eyelashes of the composition according to one of the preceding claims.   19. Use of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 17 to obtain a homogeneous makeup and / or volumizer eyelashes 2025