FR2875700A1 - Composition, for topical application in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and an emulsifying system containing a nonionic tensio-active and an anionic tensio-active - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition (I) for topical application in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprises an oily phase (II) dispersed in an aqueous phase, whose globules of (II) have an average diameter of 50-500 nm and an emulsifying system (III) containing an nonionic tensio-active (IV) and an anionic tensio-active (V). Composition (I) for topical application in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprises an oily phase (II) dispersed in an aqueous phase (where the aqueous phase comprises a polymer capable of forming a thermoreversible gel or a cross linked gel and an aqueous dispersion of organopolysiloxane elastomer particles), whose globules of (II) have an average diameter 50-500 nm and an emulsifying system (III) containing a nonionic tensio-active (IV) having a melting point lower than 45[deg]C, hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) (10-15) (where the HLB tensio-active comprising a polar part with oxyethylenated groups and an non-polar part with 14-22C alkyl chain) and an anionic tensio-active (V) (where (II) containing oily components (where the ratio of oily components to (III) is 0.8: 3.5), in which one hydrocarbonated oil (25 wt.%) of molecular weight equal or higher than 400 and triglycerides (15 wt.%)). Independent claims are also included for: (1) cosmetic use of (I) as a product of skincare, hygiene, as capillary product, as solar product and make-up product; (2) a process for cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material comprising applying (I) to the keratinous material; (3) an article obtained by impregnation of a substrate insoluble in water with (I); and (4) preparation of (I).

Description

Oil-in-water emulsion

  The present invention relates to a composition for topical application in the form of a fine oil-in-water emulsion, preferably obtained without any energy input, its method of preparation and its use especially for the treatment, care and / or make-up of the skin, superficial body growths (hair, eyelashes, nails) and / or mucous membranes, and more particularly to fade, correct and / or camouflage imperfections of the skin and / or lips. The composition may especially be a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

  Skincare or makeup compositions used to blot or camouflage skin defects, such as cutaneous microreliefs, wrinkles, fine lines, pores or color variations, are often pasty texture products, generally anhydrous products containing oily gelling agents and fillers. These compositions have the disadvantage of spreading with difficulty and having a dry effect on the skin. However, the properties sought for a cosmetic composition are not only its effectiveness, but also its comfort, which is reflected for example by effects of softness and / or freshness when applied to human skin or any other keratin support human being.

  It has been described in WO-03/080016 a composition to avoid these disadvantages and to have a cooling effect when applied to the skin, this composition containing the combination of a polymer capable of forming a thermoreversible or crosslinked gel, and an aqueous dispersion of particles of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane. However, the compositions obtained are pasty. Now, it is increasingly sought to have compositions that can have varied textures, from lotion to cream.

  The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to obtain compositions having a much more varied texture by incorporating the combination of a polymer capable of forming a thermoreversible or crosslinked gel and an aqueous dispersion of particles of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in a specific fine oil-in-water emulsion (HIE).

  The fine O / W emulsions which are emulsions containing globules (or droplets) of the small disperse phase are often desired whether: for their texture: the compositions may be more or less viscous and go from the consistency from a lotion to that of a cream; É for their visual appearance which may vary from a transparent or opalescent composition to a white composition; É for their cosmetic touch favoring in particular their speed of penetration; For their wide possible market positioning, such compositions satisfying consumers in Europe as well as in Japan and other countries.

  In the present application, the term "fine emulsion" refers to an emulsion whose particle size of the dispersed phase ranges from 50 to 500 nanometers. Thus, the Applicant has surprisingly found that it is possible to obtain fine emulsions having camouflage properties of the skin, while having varied textures, by preparing the emulsion with emulsifiers and particular oils, these emulsions being preferably prepared by a specific method.

  The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for topical application in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, whose oily phase globules have a mean diameter ranging from 50 to 500 nm, characterized in that it contains an emulsifying system containing (i) at least one nonionic surfactant, having a melting point of less than 45 C and an HLB of 10 to 15, said surfactant comprising a polar part comprising at least 5 groups oxyethylenated and an apolar part comprising at least one branched or unsaturated alkyl chain, having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and (ii) at least one anionic surfactant, the oily phase contains oily constituents including at least one hydrocarbon oil of molecular weight equal to or greater than 400, the quantity of hydrocarbon-based oils with a molecular weight of 400 or more representing at least 25% by weight relative to total weight of the oily phase, and the amount of triglyceride-based oils representing less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, the ratio by weight of the amount of the oily components of the oily phase to the the amount of the emulsifier system is from 0.8 to 3.5, the aqueous phase contains (a) at least one polymer selected from polymers capable of forming a thermoreversible gel or a crosslinked gel, and (b) an aqueous dispersion of organopolysiloxane elastomer.

  By the topical application is meant here an external application on keratin materials, which are in particular the skin, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the hair and / or the mucous membranes. Since the composition is intended for topical application, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. Moreover, by physiologically acceptable medium is meant a medium that is compatible with the skin, the lips, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyes, the nails and / or the hair. The composition may constitute in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

  Furthermore, the term "fine emulsion" is intended to mean an emulsion in which the average diameter of the globules (or droplets) of oily phase dispersed in the aqueous dispersant phase ranges from 50 to 500 nm, preferably from 50 to 250 nm and more particularly from 80 to at 200 nm, this mean diameter being a mean diameter in intensity, measured by quasi-elastic light scattering, for example by the Model BI-90 apparatus of Brookhaven Instruments Corporation.

  In the present application, the term "quantity of the oily components of the oily phase" is intended to mean the total amount of oils and other fatty substances present in the oily phase, that is to say the amount of the constituents of the oily phase other than the emulsifying system. including surfactants and optionally cosurfactants.

  Depending on the size of the oily phase globules, the visual appearance of the composition according to the invention ranges from transparency to a white appearance via opalescence.

  Although the present invention can be used for any fine emulsion, whatever its mode of production, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the emulsion is obtained without the addition of mechanical energy as it is the case to obtain nanoemulsions, and without input of thermal energy as is the case for obtaining fine emulsions by the technique PIT (Phase Inversion Temperature.). The preferred method for obtaining the compositions of the invention is achieved without going through high temperatures or without material providing a lot of energy, but according to a technique performed entirely at room temperature. This is possible thanks to the particular choice of surfactants, the particular choice of oils, and the specific oils / surfactant ratio, as claimed.

  The fine emulsions according to the invention which are obtained without the addition of mechanical energy or without the provision of thermal energy have the advantage of being able to be prepared at ambient temperature and thus by a process which does not degrade the constituents of the composition ( assets), which, moreover, is inexpensive, not very complex and without constraint since no energy is necessary to obtain this system.

  The emulsions according to the invention also have the advantage of being perfectly stable in time and in temperature since no creaming (that is to say raising of the oil globules), no sedimentation (that is to say ie, collecting the oil globules at the bottom of the vessel), and no phase shift (i.e., separation of the aqueous and oily phases) is observed over time and at different storage temperatures (4 C, 25 ° C). C and 45 C). The emulsions according to the invention also have the advantage of being able to be presented in a very varied manner, that is to say by having a wide range of texture in terms of viscosity, of touching (depending on the oil content by example), which allows them to be offered to consumers with very different habits and sensitivities.

  The compositions according to the invention may be more or less viscous and have the appearance ranging from lotion (fluid product) to cream (thick product). Thus, their viscosity can range, for example, from 1 centipoise (1 mPa · s) to 20000.cpoises (20000.mPa · $), viscosity measured after 10 minutes of shear, using the Rheomat 180 viscometer at a shear rate. 200 rpm, the mobile adapted to the viscosity of the composition.

  Polymers The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention contains at least one polymer chosen from polymers capable of forming a thermoreversible gel or a crosslinked gel. It is also possible to use the mixtures of these polymers.

  By gel is meant a three-dimensional macroscopic network formed by macromolecules and giving the system thus formed viscoelastic properties defined in that the elastic modulus is greater than the viscous modulus. This network is stabilized by bonds / interactions of the hydrogen, electrostatic, and / or dispersive bond type (= interactions between apolar compounds, for example between CH 2 groups).

  Furthermore, the term "thermoreversible" means that the gel state is obtained reversibly, that is to say that the aqueous polymer solution used is liquid at a temperature above the gelation temperature of the polymer and that after cooling to a temperature below the gelling temperature of the polymer, the solution solidifies. This gelation temperature depends on the polymer used.

  By cross-linked gel is meant a gel formed from a polymer solution to which is added a crosslinking agent whose role is to physically connect the polymer molecules to form a permanent three-dimensional network.

  The polymer capable of forming a thermoreversible gel or a crosslinked gel is generally chosen from polymers of natural origin.

  The polymers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen in particular from carrageenans, agars, gellan gums, alginates, pectins, and mixtures thereof.

  Carrageenans, agars, gellan gums are polymers capable of forming a thermoreversible gel.

  Carrageenans are linear polysaccharides present in some red algae. They consist of residues 13-1,3 and a-1,4 galactoses alternately, many galactose residues can be sulfated. This family of polysaccharides is described in chapter 3 of the book Food Gels edited by Peter Harris, Elsevier 1989. As carrageenans, there may be mentioned for example Kappa-carrageenan, Iotacarraghénane and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use mixtures of these carrageenans with carrageenan lambda which does not form gels in aqueous solution but which may be in a mixture with the aforementioned carrageenans which themselves make gels. In a preferred manner, kappa-carreghenane is used as carrageenan.

  Agars are polymers extracted from certain red algae, which contain agarose and agaropectin, polysaccharides comprising α-1,4-galactose residues and alternating 13-1,3-galactose residues with residues. sulfate, pyruvate and / or glucuronic acid in the case of agaropectin. Agars are described in Chapter 1 of the previously mentioned Food Gels book. As agars, there may be mentioned, for example, the product sold under the name Agar Luxara 1253 by the company Arthur Bramwell.

  Gellan gums are polymers of bacterial origin, which are polysaccharides consisting of alternating residues of glucose, glucuronic acid and rhamnose. Polymers belonging to the gellan family are described in Chapter 6 of the aforementioned Food Gels book. As gellan gums, there may be mentioned for example the product sold under the name Kelcogel F by the company Nutrasweet Kelco.

  Alginates and pectins are polymers forming crosslinked type gels; the formation of the gel is induced by the addition of salts acting as crosslinking agents. Alginates are products consisting of chains of polysaccharides obtained by linking two types of monomers, glucuronic acid (G) and mannuronic acid (M) which are organized into G blocks, M blocks, and monomer blocks. alternate GM. Gelation is carried out by bridging these polysaccharide chains with polyvalent ions. This bridging is preferably carried out between the G blocks. As alginate, mention may be made, for example, of sodium alginate sold under the trade name Manugel DMB by Nutrasweet Kelco as well as partial alginates of alkyl or hydroxyalkyl such as propylene glycol alginate sold by Kelco under the name Kelcoloid O, which is a propylene glycol alginate having an esterification rate of 80 to 86%.

  As pectin, there may be mentioned, for example, the product marketed under the name Rapid Set Pectin by the company Unipectin.

  One or more of these polymers capable of forming a thermoreversible or crosslinked gel can be used. The amount of polymer (s) capable of forming a thermoreversible or crosslinked gel in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0.001 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

  Silicone Elastomer The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention contains an aqueous dispersion of elastomeric organopolysiloxane particles.

  By elastomer is meant a flexible, deformable material having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its elasticity model is such that this material resists deformation and has limited capacity for extension and contraction. This elastomer is formed of high molecular weight polymer chains whose mobility is limited by a uniform network of crosslinking points.

  The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes according to the invention are partially or totally crosslinked and of three-dimensional structure. They may be chosen especially from the crosslinked polymers described in application JP-A-10/175816 (corresponding to US-A-5,928,660).

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction and crosslinking, in the presence of a catalyst, of at least: an organopolysiloxane (i) having two vinyl groups in the α-w position of the silicone chain per molecule; and an organosiloxane (ii) having at least one hydrogen atom bonded to one silicon atom per molecule.

  The aqueous dispersion of organopolysiloxane elastomer particles used in the composition according to the invention may in particular be obtained as follows: (a) mixture of an organopolysiloxane (i) having at least two vinyl groups in the oc-o position) the silicone chain and an organopolysiloxane (ii) having at least one hydrogen atom bonded to one silicon atom per molecule; (b) adding an aqueous phase containing an emulsifier to the mixture of step (a); (c) emulsifying the aqueous phase and said mixture; (d) adding hot water to the emulsion of phase (c); and (e) polymerizing organopolysiloxane (i) and organosiloxane (ii) in emulsion in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

  In the process described above, the water is advantageously added at a temperature of about 40 to 60 C.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane (I) is chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and is more specifically an α-β-dimethylvinyl polydimethylsiloxane.

  The organosiloxane elastomer particles are preferably comprised of cross-linked copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane and α-codimethylvinyl polydimethylsiloxane.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles (made of active material) have a size ranging from 0.1 to 500 μm and better still from 3 to 200 μm. These particles may be spherical, flat or amorphous with, preferably, a spherical shape.

  As indicated in the method described above, these particles of organopolysiloxane, to disperse stably in water can be combined with one or more nonionic, cationic or anionic emulsifiers HLB (Hydrophilic lipophilic balance) higher or 8. The proportion of emulsifiers in the aqueous suspension is preferably from 0.1 to 20 parts by weight per 100 parts by weight of the aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10 parts by weight (see

  description of JP-A-10/175816).

  In addition, to these particles of organopolysiloxane elastomer, may be associated in the aqueous dispersion, fatty substances, including oils such as those described in JP-A-10/175816, waxes or gums solid temperature ambient, pasty fatty substances of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, their mixtures as well as inorganic powders such as those described in this document.

  The aqueous dispersions of organopolysiloxane particles of the composition of the invention are, for example, those sold under the names BY 29-122 and BY 29-119 by Dow Corning Electric (CTFA name: Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolyler). A mixture of these commercial products can also be used. These dispersions comprise about 63% by weight of organopolysiloxane elastomer particles (thus about 63% of active material) relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

  Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are present in the composition of the invention in an amount of active material ranging for example from 0.001 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.

  Emulsifying system The composition according to the invention contains an emulsifying system containing (i) at least one nonionic surfactant and (ii) at least one anionic surfactant. In this emulsifying system, the nonionic surfactant is generally introduced into the oily phase while the anionic surfactant can be introduced into either the aqueous phase or the oily phase.

  The emulsifying system may be present in an amount ranging from 0.6 to 11% by weight, preferably from 1.1 to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  1. Nonionic surfactant The nonionic surfactants used in the composition of the invention have a melting point of less than 45 ° C. and are therefore liquid at a temperature below 45 ° C., and they have an HLB ranging from 10 to 15, and they comprise a polar part comprising at least 5 oxyethylenated groups and an apolar part comprising at least one branched or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These are lipophilic surfactants, that is to say miscible in the oily phase.

  The balance HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of an emulsifying surfactant is calculated according to the following formula: hydrophilic m HLB = 20 × total of TA in which m hydrophilic represents the weight of the hydrophilic group (ie the polar part) and m total of TA represents the total weight of the surfactant.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated fatty acid esters, oxyethylenated fatty alcohol ethers, and mixtures thereof. These oxyethylenated surfactants comprise at least 5 oxyethylenated groups; they may comprise, for example, from 5 to 21 oxyethylenated groups and preferably from 5 to 18 oxyethylenated groups.

  Examples of oxyethylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include PEG8 isostearate (or polyethylene 400 isostearate), such as the product marketed under the name Prisorin 3644 by the company Uniqema, PEG10 isostearate, PEG-12 isostearate, PEG Isostearate, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Oxypon 2145 by Zschimmer Schwarz, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of oxyethylenated fatty alcohol ethers are isosteareth-10, such as the product marketed under the name Arosurf 66E10 by the company Witco.

  It is possible to use a mixture of the surfactants mentioned above.

  The amount of nonionic surfactant (s) as defined above may range, for example, from 0.5 to 10% by weight and preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  2. Anionic Surfactant The anionic surfactants may be more particularly chosen from the group formed by: the alkaline salts of dicetyl and dimyristyl phosphate; the alkaline salts of cholesterol sulfate; the alkaline salts of cholesterol phosphate; acylamino acid salts (or lipoamino acids) such as mono and di-sodium acylglutamates, for example the disodium salt of N-stearoyl L-glutamic acid sold under the name Acylglutamate HS21 by the company Ajinomoto; the sodium salts of phosphatidic acid; the alkyl sulphate and alkyl sulphonate derivatives and their mixtures.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an anionic surfactant is an acylamino acid salt such as mono- and di-sodium acylglutamates such as the disodium salt of N-stearoylglutamic acid sold under the name Acylglutamate HS21. by the company AJINOMOTO.

  The anionic surfactants may be present in the emulsion of the invention, in an amount ranging preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight and more particularly from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

  Co-surfactants The emulsifying system may also comprise one or more co-surfactants which are HLB surfactants of less than 5. These co-surfactants have a melting point of less than or equal to 45 C. As co-surfactants, mention may be made of for example fatty alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, esters of fatty alcohol and glycerol such as glycerol isostearate, esters of fatty alcohol and sorbitan, such as sorbitan isostearate . The amount of cosurfactants may range, for example, from 0.005 to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Oily phase The oily phase comprises oily constituents and optionally one or more surfactants of the emulsifying system. Among the oily constituents, it must contain at least one hydrocarbon oil with a molecular weight equal to or greater than 400, the amount of hydrocarbon oils with a molecular weight equal to or greater than 400 representing at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase. In addition, the oily phase must contain less than 15% by weight of triglyceride oils relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

  In the present application, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen and silicon-containing atoms. or fluorine. Such an oil may contain ester, ether, amine, amide groups. The hydrocarbon oils of molecular weight equal to or greater than 400, used according to the invention are chosen from alkanes having a melting point of less than 45 ° C., fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol ethers, and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made, as hydrocarbon-based oils with a molecular weight equal to or greater than 400, of jojoba oil; fatty acid esters such as isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate; oils of vegetable origin; fatty alcohol ethers such as diisostearyl ether.

  As alkanes having a melting point of less than 45 ° C., mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil, liquid petroleum jelly, and mixtures thereof.

  The triglyceride oils generally have a molecular weight greater than 400. However, to achieve the object of the invention, the amount of these oils must be limited to less than 15% by weight and preferably less than 10% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, the oily phase then comprising the oily constituents without the surfactants. Triglyceride oils that may be mentioned include vegetable oils such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil and the like. sesame, peanut oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel, calophyllum oil, rice bran oil, corn germ oil, wheat germ oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, oil evening primrose, safflower oil, passionflower oil and rye oil.

  In addition to hydrocarbon oils with a molecular weight equal to or greater than 400, the oily phase may also contain one or more oils with a molecular weight of less than 400, chosen, for example, from silicone oils or hydrocarbon oils with a molecular weight of less than or equal to at 400, such as cyclic or linear silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of less than or equal to 10 centistokes at 25 ° C., such as cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexadimethylsiloxane; or hydrocarbon oils having a molecular weight of less than 400, such as for example isoparaffins such as isododecane (molecular weight: 194), isohexadecane (molecular weight: 258), dioctylcyclohexane; esters of fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate (molecular weight: 320); fatty ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.

  The amount of oily phase may range, for example, from 0.5 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In the composition according to the invention, the ratio by weight of the amount of the oily constituents of the oily phase to the amount of the emulsifying system ranges from 0.8 to 3.5 and preferably from 0.7 to 3. above, the amount of the oily components of the oily phase corresponds to the total amount of the oils and other fatty substances present in the oily phase, that is to say the amount of the constituents of the oily phase other than the surfactants and / or cosurfactants that are part of the emulsifying system.

  Aqueous Phase Conventionally, the aqueous dispersant phase may be formed by water, or a mixture of water and hydrophilic compounds, such as in particular polyhydric alcohols such as glycerine, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and the like. sorbitol, the primary alcohols, that is to say linear or branched chain aliphatic alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol. In addition, it may of course contain water-soluble or water-dispersible adjuvants, and in particular the water-soluble cosmetic or dermatological adjuvants conventionally used. The composition according to the invention may contain a quantity of polyol (s) and primary alcohols ranging for example from 0.01 to 20% and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Adjuvants Among the adjuvants likely to be contained in the aqueous phase and / or in the oily phase of the emulsions according to the invention (according to their water-soluble or fat-soluble nature), mention may in particular be made of ionic or nonionic thickeners, antioxidants, emollients, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, perfumes, preservatives, fillers, sequestering agents, pigments, dyes, or any other ingredient usually used in the fields under consideration. The amount of these adjuvants can range, for example, from 0.01 to 20% and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention and their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not or substantially unaffected by the intended addition.

  As active agents, mention may be made, for example: moisturizing agents such as, for example, sodium lactate; polyols, and in particular glycerine, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols; mannitol; amino acids; hyaluronic acid; lanolin; urea and mixtures containing urea, such as NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor); petrolatum; N-lauroyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and its salts; essential fatty acids; essential oils; and their mixtures.

  anti-aging active agents and keratolytic agents such as α-hydroxy acids and in particular acids derived from fruits, such as glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, tartaric and mandelic acids, their derivatives and their mixtures; β-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid or n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; α-ketoacids such as ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives such as its salts such as sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate; its esters such as ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl propionate, or its sugars such as glycosylated ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof; 8-keto acids; retinoids such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives, as well as the retinoids described in documents FR-A-2,570, 377, EP-A-199636, EP-A- 325540, EP-A-402072; adapalene; carotenoids; and their mixtures.

  vitamins, such as vitamins A and C indicated above, and also vitamin E (tocopherol) and its derivatives; vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP or niacinamide) and its derivatives; vitamin B5 (or panthenol or panthenyl alcohol or 2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutanamide), in its various forms (D-panthenol, DLpanthenol), and its derivatives and analogues, such as calcium panthotenate, panthetin, pantothine, ethyl panthenyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose, and natural compounds containing it such as royal jelly; vitamin D and its analogs such as those described in WO-A-00/26167; vitamin F or its analogs such as unsaturated acid mixtures having at least one double bond and especially mixtures of linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, or compounds containing them; antibacterials and anti-seborrhoeics such as salicylic acid, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide (or triclocarban), azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide and zinc salts such as lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, salicylate and / or zinc cysteate.

  Thickeners that may especially be mentioned include thickening polymers, in particular: carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by Guardian or under the name Hispagel by Hispano Chimica; Polyacrylamides; Polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (name INCI: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) or as the crosslinked copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (INCI name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane I Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC. Mention may also be made of AMPS polymers comprising a hydrophobic, crosslinked or linear part, such as the products sold under the names Aristoflex SNC, LNC and HMS by the company Clariant; Polysaccharides such as xanthan gum, guar gum and its derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, in particular that marketed under the name Jaguar HP105 by Rhodia, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans; chitin and chitosan derivatives, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, such as the product marketed under the name Natrosol 250HHR by Aqualon; Nonionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block, such as the polyurethanes marketed under the names SERAD FX1010, SERAD FX1100 (INCI name: Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HMDI Copolymer) and the SERAD FX1035 by HÜLS, those sold under the names Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 by RHEOX (INCI name: Polyetherurea-polyurethane), those sold under the names DW 1206F, DW 1206J, DW 1206B, DW 1206G by the company Rôhm & Haas (INCI name: Polyurethane), and the one marketed under the name Acrysol RM 2020 from Rôhm & Haas. Mention may also be made of aqueous SMDI and fatty alcohol copolymer solutions marketed under the names Aculyn 46 (INCI name: PEG-150 stearyl alcohol / SMDI Polymer), and Aculyn 44 (INCI name: PEG-150 decyl alcohol / SMDI Polymer) ) by the company Rôhm &Haas; Anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, and in particular acrylic or methacrylic polymers or copolymers (including terpolymers) comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, such as copolymers obtained by copolymerization of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their esters with an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising a hydrophobic group, such as the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Pemulen Tri, Pemulen TR2 or Carbopol 1382 (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Noveon; the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated alcohol, 25% aqueous solution sold under the name Viscophobe DB1000 by the company Amerchol, the acrylic acid / itaconate copolymer of mono-stearyl oxyethylenated (20 0E ) in 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Structure 2001 by the company National Starch, the 30% aqueous ethoxylated (30E) ethoxylated acrylic acid / itaconate copolymer in aqueous dispersion sold under the name Structure 3001 by the company National Starch, the acrylic copolymer soluble in alkaline medium in aqueous dispersion 30% marketed under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm &Haas; Cationic polymers containing at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block, such as Polyquaternium 24, for instance the product marketed under the name Quatrisoft LM200 by the company Amerchol; Cross-linked cationic polymers such as polyquaternium-37 marketed under the names Salcare SC96 by the company Ciba and Synthalen CR by the company 3V Sigma.

  The invention also relates to a process for preparing these emulsions. The process consists of: (1) preparing the oil phase (phase A) containing the oil (s) and other fatty substances, and the emulsifying system, with gentle stirring, for example with a magnetic bar, at a temperature of about 20 ° C. C. at 45 ° C., until a homogeneous phase is obtained, (2) to introduce into the phase A, 0.1 to 3% by weight of water (phase B) relative to the total weight of the composition, and to mix until a homogeneous phase (phase C) is obtained, (3) to be added in phase C, 40% to 75% by weight of water (phase D) relative to the total weight of the composition, to obtain after mix a homogeneous E phase, and (4) add the rest of the constituents of the aqueous phase (phase F, this phase can be decomposed into several phases if necessary, for example F1 and F2 phases).

  Stirring is preferably with a magnet bar or any other low energy stirring system, at a temperature ranging from 20 to 45 C.

  At the same time as phase F, the perfume (s) may optionally be added if they are in an amount of less than 0.4% of the total weight of the composition. If they are larger, the excess over 0.4% is added to the oily phase. Thus, if the composition contains 1% perfume, 0.6 are in the oily phase and 0, 4% are in the aqueous phase.

  The compositions of the invention can be used on all keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails or the mucous membranes. They can be used as a skin care product, for example as a protective, treatment or facial cream, for the hands or for the body, as body protection or skin care milk, leather hairy or mucous membranes, or as a hygiene product, for example as a cleaning product for the skin or mucous membranes, or as a hair product or as a solar product.

  The compositions may also constitute products for the make-up of the skin and / or the hair, for example by incorporating pigments into the composition to constitute, in particular, foundations.

  The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above as skin care product, as a hygiene product, as a hair product, as a solar product and as a makeup product.

  Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails or the mucous membranes, characterized by the fact that applies to the keratin material, a composition as defined above.

  The compositions of the invention may more particularly be used for blurring, correcting and / or camouflaging imperfections of the skin and / or lips, such as microreliefs, wrinkles, fine lines, pores or color variations.

  Also, the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above for blurring, correcting and / or camouflaging the imperfections of the skin and / or lips.

  On the other hand, when the compositions according to the invention have the appropriate fluidity, they can also be used for the impregnation of substrates insoluble in water to constitute articles (such as wipes) intended for care, cleaning and / or removing make-up. skin, eyelashes and / or lips. The water insoluble substrate may comprise one or more layers and may be selected from the group consisting of woven materials, nonwoven materials, foams, sponges, wadding, sheets, balls or films. It may be in particular a non-woven substrate based on fibers of natural origin (flax, wool, cotton, silk) or of synthetic origin (cellulose derivatives, viscose, polyvinyl derivatives, polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyolefins such as polyethylene or polypropylene, polyamides such as nylon, acrylic derivatives). Nonwovens are generally described in RIEDEL Nonwoven Bonding Methods & Materials, Nonwoven World (1987). These substrates are obtained according to the usual methods of the technique for preparing nonwovens.

  When the substrate is a non-woven material, a thick, non-woven, non-woven fabric is preferably used which is strong enough not to disintegrate and not fluff on application to the skin. It must be absorbent, soft at least on one side for makeup removing eyes in particular. Suitable nonwovens include, for example, those sold under the names Ultraloft 15285-01, Ultraloft 182-008, Ultraloft 182-010, Ultraloft 182-016 by the company BBA, Vilmed M1519 Blau, Vilmed M 1550 N and 112. -132-3 by the company Freudenberg, the one marketed under the name Norafin 11601-010B by the company Jacob Holm Industries, flocked nonwoven marketed under the names Univel 109 and Univel 119 by the company Uni Flockage.

  Furthermore, this substrate may comprise one or more layers having identical or different properties and have elasticity, softness and other properties appropriate to the desired use. The substrates may comprise for example two parts having different elastic properties as described in WO-A-99/13861 or comprise a single layer with different densities as described in document WO-A-99/25318 or comprise two layers of different textures as described in WO-A-98/18441.

  The compositions impregnated on the substrate may contain any suitable compound for the intended purpose, for example foaming surfactants for obtaining cleaning wipes, or care actives for obtaining skin care wipes. They can also be used for makeup of the skin, for example by impregnating the wipe with a composition containing pigments and which can constitute a foundation.

  The invention therefore also relates to an article obtained by impregnation of a water-insoluble substrate with a composition as defined above.

  The invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for the preparation of an article for the care, removal of makeup, cleaning or makeup of the skin, lips and / or eyelashes.

  The following example illustrates the invention without being limiting in nature. The quantities are percentages by weight. The compounds are indicated in INCI name or in chemical names as appropriate.

Example according to the invention

Example according to

  the invention PEG 8 isostearate A 5.80 Polyisobutene hydrogenated Cyclic silicone Water B 2.18 Water D 45.07 Water F1 Qs 100 Preservative Disodium stearoyl glutamate Propylene glycol Fragrance 0.10 Agar Luxara 1253 F2 0.22 Preservative 0.1 BY29 -119 to 63% in active ingredient 0.664 Water 3.106 Diameter of the globules of the phase 24 h. 96 nanometers dispersed (measured by quasi-elastic light scattering) * pH 6.97 Visual appearance Opalescent fluid emulsion Stability after 15 days at different Stable temperatures (4, TA, 45 C) * Measurement is made at Brookhaven BI-90 before introduction of phase F2.

Claims (20)

  1. Composition for topical application in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, whose oily phase globules have a mean diameter ranging from 50 to 500 nm, characterized in that: it contains a emulsifying system containing (i) at least one nonionic surfactant, having a melting point of less than 45 ° C. and an HLB ranging from 10 to 15, said surfactant comprising a polar part comprising at least 5 oxyethylenated groups and an apolar part comprising at least 5 a branched or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and (ii) at least one anionic surfactant, the oily phase contains oily constituents of which at least one hydrocarbon oil of molecular weight equal to or greater than 400, the amount hydrocarbon oils of molecular weight equal to or greater than 400 representing at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, and With respect to triglyceride-based oils representing less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, the ratio by weight of the amount of oily constituents of the oily phase to the amount of the emulsifying system is 0.8. at 3.5, the aqueous phase contains (a) at least one polymer chosen from polymers capable of forming a thermoreversible gel or a crosslinked gel, and (b) an aqueous dispersion of elastomeric organopolysiloxane particles.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is chosen from oxyethylenated fatty acid esters, oxyethylenated fatty alcohol ethers, and mixtures thereof.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is selected from PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-10 isostearate, PEG-12 isostearate, PEG-15 isostearate, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, isosteareth10, and mixtures thereof.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of nonionic surfactant (s) ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: - the alkaline salts of dicetyl- and dimyristylphosphate; alkaline salts of cholesterol sulfate; the alkaline salts of cholesterol phosphate; the acylamino acid salts; the sodium salts of phosphatidic acid; the alkyl sulphates and sulphonates and their mixtures.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of anionic surfactant (s) ranges from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of emulsifying system is from 0.6 to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil with a molecular weight equal to or greater than 400 is chosen from alkanes having a melting point of less than 45 ° C., fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol ethers, and mixtures thereof.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of oily phase is from 0.5 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer capable of forming a heat-reversible gel or a crosslinked gel is selected from carrageenans, agars, gellan gums, alginates, pectins, and their mixtures.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of polymer (s) capable (s) of forming a heat-reversible gel or a crosslinked gel ranges from 0.001 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0, 01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organosiloxane elastomer particles consist of crosslinked copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane and acodimethylvinyl polydimethylsiloxane.   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organosiloxane elastomer particles have a number average size ranging from 0.1 to 500 μm.   14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.   15. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, as a skin care product, as a hygiene product, as a hair product, as a solar product and as a makeup product.   16. Process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, characterized in that a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 is applied to the keratinous material.   17. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, for blurring, correcting and / or camouflaging imperfections of the skin and / or lips.   18. Article obtained by impregnation of a water-insoluble substrate, with a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.   19. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, for the preparation of an article for the care, removing make-up, cleaning or makeup of the skin, lips and / or eyelashes.   20. Process for the preparation of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, consisting: (1) to prepare the oily phase (phase A) containing the oil or oils and other fatty substances, and the emulsifying system, under low stirring, for example with a magnetic bar, at a temperature ranging from about 20 ° C. to 45 ° C., until a homogeneous phase is obtained, (2) introducing into phase A, 0.1 to 3% by weight of water (B phase) relative to the total weight of the composition, and to mix until a homogeneous phase (C phase), (3) to be added in phase C, 40% to 75% by weight of water (phase D) relative to the total weight of the composition, to obtain after mixing a homogeneous E phase, and (4) to add the rest of the constituents of the aqueous phase (phase F).