FR2870724A1 - Composition, useful for the treatment (e.g. discoloration) of human keratinous material, comprises a compound (ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid), pearling agent and/or opacifying agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition (A) for the treatment of human keratinous material comprises at least a compound (I) (ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid and/or its salts), a pearling agent (II) and/or opacifying agent (III). Independent claims are also included for: (1) treatment process of human keratinous matter comprising applying (A) to the dry or wet keratinous material; and (2) process of permanent deformation, discoloration and coloration of human keratinous fibers comprising contacting (A) with the fibers for a sufficient period of time to obtain the desired effect.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATTER

  COMPRISING A PARTICULAR POLYCARBOXYLIC COMPOUND AND AN AGENT

  The present invention relates to a composition for the treatment of human keratin materials, comprising a compound carrying four carboxylic acid functions, in acid form or in salt form, said compound being associated with at least one pearlescent and / or opacifying agent. It further relates to methods for treating keratin materials comprising applying said composition. Finally, it relates to deformation processes, discoloration, coloring of human keratin fibers using. The composition according to the invention has long sought to change the appearance, the color of human keratin fibers, including hair.

  Thus, it is possible to implement permanent deformation processes usually carried out in two stages.

  More particularly, a first step is performed in which the disulfide bridges present in the fibers are open, usually in the presence of a reducing agent.

  Before, after, or simultaneously with the reduction of these disulfide bridges, the fiber is shaped in the desired manner (curler, smoothing).

  Once this first step has been performed, it is necessary to implement a step during which the disulfide bridges are reformed in order to stabilize the shape obtained. This form fixation step is carried out by means of a composition comprising an oxidizing agent.

  With regard to fiber bleaching processes, these treatments are carried out by oxidation of the "melanin" pigment resulting in the solubilization and the partial or total elimination of this pigment in the fiber.

  For this purpose, bleaching compositions containing at least one peroxygen reagent and at least one alkaline agent are used as activator of these peroxygen compounds. These compositions are subsequently associated at the time of use with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide.

  According to another possibility, the purpose of the bleaching processes may be to strip the fiber, in other words to rid it of artificial dyes present.

  This type of discoloration can be done either in the presence of an oxidizing agent, as previously summarized, or in the presence of a reducing agent. The active agent used is in fact conventionally chosen by those skilled in the art, depending on the nature of the dye to be removed.

  Finally, in the field of coloring, several types of process are known among which include permanent coloring (or oxidation dyeing) and direct dyeing (or semi-permanent coloring) with or without the lightening effect of the fibers.

  In the field of oxidation dyeing, the compounds used are precursors of oxidation dyes, more particularly oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers. These compounds are colorless or slightly colored substances which, by a process of oxidative condensation, in the presence of an oxidizing agent, lead to compounds which color the fibers.

  In the field of semi-permanent coloring, the composition applied to the fibers comprises at least direct dyes, which are coloring and colored compounds, and may optionally also comprise at least one oxidizing agent, if it is desired to obtain an effect lightening associated with the coloring.

  Whatever the desired result, the compositions employed must satisfy relatively restrictive criteria because they are applied directly to the fibers and come into contact with the skin, and they contain ingredients or are used under conditions such as (especially pH) which can cause skin sensitization reactions, and a degradation, in the long run, of the treated fibers.

  Significant progress has been made in these various fields of treatment of keratinous fibers. Thus, the compositions contain numerous additives which, for example, aim to regulate the rheology of the composition so that it can be applied easily and quickly, without flowing out of the areas to be treated during the exposure time.

  There are also other additives whose purpose is to limit or correct the effects of degradation of the keratin fiber caused by the processes.

  However, in some cases, the additives present are not without effect on the actual results of the treatment.

  This is why we always try to improve the power, the selectivity, the tenacity of the colorations obtained, the homogeneity of the discolourations, the holding of the forms given to the fibers.

  Thus, it is an object of the present invention to provide compositions that solve the above problems.

  A first subject of the invention therefore consists of a composition intended for the treatment of human keratin materials, comprising: at least one compound chosen from ethylenediamine-N, N'disuccinic acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof, at least one pearlescent and / or opacifying agent.

  Another object of the present invention is to apply the composition according to the invention to keratinous materials, more particularly human, and especially to fibers.

  It also relates to permanent fiber deformation processes, bleaching, staining, implementing the composition according to the invention.

  But other features and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

  In what follows and unless the opposite is specified, the boundaries delimiting a range of values are included in this area.

  Furthermore, human keratin materials denote skin and keratin fibers, and more particularly hair.

  In the case of ready-to-use compositions, in the case where they can be stored as they are, the detailed contents for the compositions according to the invention remain valid, with the exception that they are expressed relative to ready-to-use composition.

  In the case of ready-to-use compositions obtained by extemporaneous mixing of several compositions, then these contents must be modified as a function of the degree of dilution to obtain said ready-to-use composition.

  As has been indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound chosen from ethylenediamine-N, N'disuccinic acid, one of its salts, or their mixture.

  The salts are preferably alkali metal salts (such as, for example, sodium, potassium), alkaline earth metals (especially calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, substituted or otherwise by one to three identical alkyl radicals, or different, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl radical.

  Preferably, the compound used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of a sodium salt.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of ethylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid, in acid or salt form, or in a mixture, represents between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one nacrant and / or opacifying agent.

  Said agent may be chosen from organic or inorganic compounds.

  According to a first variant of the invention, the pearlescent and / or opacifying agent is chosen from the following organic compounds: (i) esters of polyols having at least two carbon atoms, optionally oxyethylenated, and of fatty acids; (ii) esters of C10-C30 monoalcohols and fatty acids; (iii) ethers of fatty alcohols, solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 30 C; (iv) monoalcohols having at least 16 carbon atoms; (v) C27-C48 alcohols having one or two ether and / or thioether or sulfoxide groups; (vi) fatty acid alkanolamides; (vii) C10-C30 esters of C10-C30 alkanolamides; (viii) C10-C30 amine oxides; (ix) N, N-dihydrocarbyl (C10-C30) amido benzoic acids, (x) cyclodextrins; and their mixtures.

  It is specified that the term "fatty" means that the compound thus described comprises a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, in the chain longest carbon, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals. Preferably, the hydrocarbon chain is an alkyl or alkenyl chain, comprising one or more ethylenic initiations, optionally conjugated, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals.

  With regard to the family of (i) pearlescent and / or opacifying agents, these are more particularly C2-C4 polyol esters, optionally comprising on average from 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide.

  Among these compounds, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol monostearates or distearates and more particularly ethylene glycol monostearate and ethylene glycol distearate.

  Family ii) comprises esters of C10-C30 monoalcohols and fatty acids. More particularly, the monoalcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in the longest carbon chain. Examples of such compounds include cetyl palmitate.

  As indicated previously, the family iii) consists of fatty alcohol ethers, which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 30.degree.

  Advantageously, the compounds corresponding to this family are chosen from dialkyl ethers of formula RO-R ', in which R and R', which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched, more particularly C 10 -C 30, alkyl or alkenyl radical, preferably C14-C24; R and R 'being chosen such that the compound is solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 30 ° C. These compounds may in particular be prepared according to the process described in DE 41 27 230. According to a preferred embodiment, R and R 'denote a stearyl radical. Such a compound is in particular marketed under the name Cutina STE by Henkel.

  As regards the iv) family of pearlescent and / or opacifying agents, the compounds are more particularly chosen from monoalcohols having at least 20 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon atoms. Advantageously, these monoalcohols are single-stranded. As a more specific example of a compound of this family, there may be mentioned, for example, behenyl alcohol.

  The family v) of suitable pearlescent and / or opacifying agents consists of C27-C48 alcohols having one or two ether and / or thioether or sulfoxide groups.

  Preferably, these compounds correspond to the following formula: Ra X [C 2 H 3 (OH) 2 -CH 2 -Y-Rb in which Ra and Rb denote, independently of each other, C12-C24 linear groups; X denotes an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a sulphoxide or methylene group; Y denotes an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a sulphoxide or methylene group; the sum of the number of carbon atoms present in the radicals Ra and Rb is between 24 and 44 and preferably between 28 and 40 inclusive; when X or Y denotes sulphoxide, Y or X, respectively, does not denote sulfur.

  According to an even more preferred embodiment, the compounds of the preceding formula are such that X denotes oxygen, Y denotes a methylene radical, and Ra and Rb denote C12-C22 radicals. Such compounds are known and their synthesis especially described in EP 457,688. A particularly preferred compound is 1- (hexadecyloxy) -2-octadecanol.

  The compounds corresponding to the family vi), may be chosen from alkanolamides of fatty acids whose part derived from the alkanolamine is C1-C4. It should be noted that the alkanolamine from which the compounds of this family are derived can be monoethanolamines or diethanolamines. Examples of compounds of this family include stearic monoethanolamide, stearic diethanolamide, stearic monoisopropanolamide or stearic monoethanolamide stearate, among others.

  The compounds of the family vii) chosen from the C10-C30 esters of C10-C30 alkanolamides are such that the C10-C30 radicals are linear or branched radicals, saturated or unsaturated. Examples of such compounds include distearate stearamide diethanolamide or stearate stearamide monoethanolamide.

  The pearlescent and / or opacifying agents may also be chosen from C 10 -C 30 amine oxides, such as (C 10 -C 30) alkyl dimethyl amine oxides. For example, stearyl dimethyl amine oxide can be used.

  With regard to the agents chosen from benzoic acids N, N-dihydrocarbyl (C 10 -C 30) amido, they may preferably correspond to benzoic acids dihydrocarbyl (C 12 -C 22) amido and their salts and particularly benzoic acid N, N- dihydrocarbyl (C16-C18) amido marketed by Stepan Company.

  Finally, the pearlescent and / or opacifying agent may be chosen from cyclodextrins.

  According to a second variant of the invention, the pearlescent and / or opacifying agent is chosen from mineral compounds such as coated or uncoated titanium oxides, micas and mica-titanium oxide.

  Of course, it is not excluded to combine several of these families, that the latter 10 are chosen from organic or inorganic compounds.

  Advantageously, the nacrant and / or opacifying agent content represents from 0.2% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one oxidizing agent.

  Usually, the oxidizing agent is selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali or alkaline earth metal peroxides, such as sodium, potassium, magnesium; urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, persalts such as perborates and persulphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium, potassium, magnesium, alone or in mixtures.

  The content of oxidizing agent is in general between 1 and 60% by weight, preferably between 3 and 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  The composition comprising the oxidizing agent may be in the form of a solution, an emulsion or a paste.

  In the latter case, the dough does not comprise water or comprises a content of less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  In the case where the oxidizing composition is intended to be used for the bleaching or stripping of the keratin fiber, it then preferably comprises at least one persalt, at least one alkaline agent and from 15 to 35% of at least one inert liquid. organic.

  Usually, the alkaline agent is selected from urea; ammonium salts, such as chlorides, sulphates, phosphates, nitrates; silicates, phosphates, carbonates of alkali metals (such as sodium, potassium) or alkaline-earth metals (especially magnesium) alone or in combination.

  It is generally present at from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

  As the organic inert liquid, the latter is a compound or a mixture of 40 compounds liquid at room temperature (between 15 and 25 C) and at atmospheric pressure. Advantageously, it is chosen from polydecenes, mono- and polyesters of carboxylic acids, monoesters or polyesters of C 8 -C 30 acid sugars, cyclic ethers, cyclic esters, silicone oils, oils and the like. minerals, vegetable oils, or mixtures thereof.

  It should be noted that paste compositions are obtained by any conventional means, for example by dispersing the pulverulent compounds in the inert liquid, in which the other liquid compounds of the bleaching composition have been previously dispersed or mixed, or by extrusion. .

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one reducing agent, whether for stripping or for the permanent deformation of the fibers.

  More particularly, the reducing agent is chosen from reductones or compounds comprising sulfur, and in particular compounds having at least one thiol, (di) sulphide, sulphite or sulfinic function, in salt form or otherwise.

  Among the reductones, mention may be made, inter alia, of (iso) ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid, in acidic, esterified or salified form. Particularly advantageously are ascorbic acid, isoascorbic acid, acid form or a salt thereof such as sodium salt.

  Among the thiols which can be used as reducing compounds, mention may be made of thioglycolic acid, (3-mercaptoethanol, thiolactic acid, their alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts (such as sodium, potassium, calcium) and their esters, cysteine, cysteamine and their derivatives, homocysteine and one of its salts, mercaptoaldehyde, penicillamine, glutathione, glycerol thioglycolate These compounds may be used alone or in mixtures.

  As regards the sulphites which can be used as reducing agents, among which bisulfites and hydrosulphites are also suitable, the alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salts, as well as their mixtures, are suitable. More particularly, mention may be made of sodium sulphite and sodium hydrosulphite.

  As regards sulphides, among which disulfides also include cystine.

  With regard to the sulfinic compounds, there may be mentioned compounds corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which, R, is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, an NH 3 + ion, a metal ion; monovalent or an ionic equivalent of the divalent metal of groups la, IIa, IIb, IVa and VIIIb of the periodic system of the elements, R2 is chosen from an OH radical or a radical NR5R6 in which R5 and R6, which are identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical, R3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl or cycloalkyl radical; aryl unsubstituted or substituted with 1 to 3 substituents chosen, identical or different, from OH, C 1 -C 6 alkyl, O-C 1 -C 6 alkyl, halogen or CF 3, R 4 is chosen from a COOR 1, SO 3 R radical; , CORS, CONR5R6 or COOR5 or in which R ,, R5, and R6 have the above meanings, and R4 also denotes a hydrogen atom, when R3 denotes an aryl radical, and in particular, a substituted aryl radical as described above, and the salts of said cosmetically acceptable compounds.

  Preferably, the salts of the sulfinic compounds may be selected from alkali (Na, K), alkaline earth (Ca, Mg) or zinc sulphinates.

  The sulfinic acid derivatives of formula above according to the invention are known compounds, described and prepared in the patent application WO 99/18067 and WO02 / 30369.

  Advantageously, it is possible to use sulfinic acid derivatives of the aforementioned formula for which R 1 is chosen from an NH 3 + ion, an alkali metal ion, an ionic equivalent of alkaline earth metal or zinc, and R2 is an OH radical. or a radical NH2, R3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or two OH radicals or one or two C1-C6 alkyl radicals or C1-C6 alkoxy radicals; R4 is a radical; COOR, or COOR5, in which R, and R5 have the same meanings as those indicated above.

  According to a more particular embodiment, the sulphinic acid derivative is such that R, represents sodium, R2 represents OH, R3 represents a hydrogen atom and R4 represents COONa. Also suitable are mixtures comprising 40 to 60% of said compound, 10 to 20% of NaSO3-CHOH-COONa and 30 to 40% of Na2SO3 (for example Brüggolite FF6 from Bruggemann: 50% of the compound NaSO2CHOH-000Na, 15% of the compound NaSO3-CHOH-COONa and 35% of Na2SO3).

  The sulfinic acid derivatives described in WO03 / 026597 and WO03 / 041668 may also be used as reducing agent.

  Preferably, the reducing agent is chosen from ascorbic acid, sodium hydroxymethane sulfinate, thiols and sodium sulphite, alone or in mixtures.

  The content of reducing agent in the composition is advantageously between 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  Note that the composition may be in the form of a thickened lotion, cream, gel, or any other form suitable for the subsequent application of this composition.

  Thus, when the composition is intended for a hair straightening or decreping operation, it is preferably in the form of a thickened cream so as to keep the fibers to be treated as stiff as possible during the treatment. These creams are produced in the form of "heavy" emulsions, obtained for example by emulsifying an aqueous phase, especially comprising the reducing agent, and an oily phase (vegetable oil, paraffin oil, fatty acid esters, wax, for example). example).

  It is also possible to use liquids or gels containing thickeners such as carboxyvinyl polymers or copolymers which "stick" the fibers and keep them in the smooth position during the exposure time.

  It should be noted that the composition may likewise comprise at least one direct dye or at least one oxidation base optionally associated with at least one coupler, or their mixtures.

  For direct dyes, anionic, cationic or nonionic species can be used.

  Advantageously, they may be chosen from nitrobenzene dyes, azo, azomethine, methine, tetraazapenthamethine, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzoquinone, phenotiazine indigo dyes, xanthenic, phenanthridine dyes, phthalocyanine dyes, those derived from triarylmethane, natural dyes, alone or mixtures.

  If present, the content of direct dye (s) in the composition generally ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight relative to the composition, and preferably from 0.01 to 10% of the total weight of the composition. the composition.

  As regards the oxidation bases, they may be chosen in particular ortho-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their salts. addition with an acid, and mixtures thereof.

  In general, when present in the composition, the content of oxidation base (s) represents from 0.0005 to 12% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, advantageously from 0.005 to 8% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  As for the couplers possibly associated with the aforementioned oxidation bases, it is possible to use one or more compounds chosen from m-aminophenols, m-phenylenediamines, m-diphenols, naphthols, heterocyclic couplers, and their addition salts. with an acid, as well as their mixtures.

  When present, these couplers are more particularly from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  In general, the acid addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are chosen in particular from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates and tosylates. benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

  In addition, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.

  Among the nonionic surfactants, there may be mentioned alcohols, alphadiols, polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated alkylphenols, having a hydrocarbon chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number groups of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide which can range from 2 to 50.

  Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, and the like. Among the anionic surfactants, mention may be made, inter alia, of salts (in particular alkaline salts, especially of sodium, magnesium, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts) of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglycerides sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl (C6-C24) sulfosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkyl amidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkylsulfoacetates; acyl (C6-C24) sarcosinates and glutamates; (C6-C24) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters; alkylsulphosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.

  Fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, and hydrogenated or unhydrogenated coconut oil acids are also suitable; D-galactosiduronic alkyl acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylcarboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylarycarboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylamido carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof.

  As regards the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in particular, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic water-solubilising group (for example carboxylate), are in particular provided. sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl betaine or (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl sulphobetaines.

  Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of amphocarboxyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates, such as, for example, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, and the like. (Products of the Miranol range, in particular Miranol C2M concentrate marketed by Rhodia Chimie).

  The surfactant content in the composition is usually from 0.01 to 40% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may contain at least one thickening agent, associative or not. They are preferably chosen from cellulose derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl or carboxymethyl celluloses; guar derivatives; gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan, xanthan gums; gums derived from plant exudates such as gum arabic, Ghatti, Karaya, Tragacanth; as well as synthetic thickeners such as homopolymers of acrylic acid, acrylate, acrylamide, 2acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid, crosslinked or otherwise; pectins; alginates.

  The composition may also comprise one or more associative polymers as thickeners such as, inter alia, associative polyurethane derivatives, associative celluloses derivatives, associative polyvinyllactam derivatives and associative unsaturated polyacid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

  Usually, in the case where it is present, the content of thickening polymer, associative or not, represents 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and in particular between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. relative to the weight of the composition.

  The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise various adjuvants conventionally used, such as cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers, mineral thickeners, antioxidants, alphaoxocarboxylic acids ( for example, oxalic acid, glyoxalic acid, pyruvic acid or alpha-ketoglutaric acid), penetrating agents, fragrances, buffers, basic amino acids such as arginine, dispersing agents, agents and the like. peptizers, conditioning agents such as, for example, cations, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides, vitamins or provitamines, preserving agents, stabilizing agents, opacifying or mattifying agents like titanium dioxide, mineral fillers, such as clays, silicas notammen The present invention relates to pyrogenic polymers having hydrophilic or hydrophobic characteristics, binding polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone, lubricants such as stearates, oxygen release control agents such as magnesium carbonate or magnesium oxide, sunscreens, and the like. The adjuvants mentioned above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  The medium of the composition is a cosmetically acceptable medium.

  According to a first possibility, it consists of water or a mixture of water and one or more usual organic solvents.

  More particularly, the organic solvents are chosen from monoalcohols or diols, linear or branched, preferably saturated, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol; and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C1-C4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

  The usual solvents described above, if they are present, usually represent from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  According to a second possibility, the medium of the composition according to the invention does not comprise water or comprises a water content less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0, 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  In this case, the medium of the composition is an inert organic liquid chosen from those mentioned previously.

  The content of this type of compound is between 15 and 35% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  The pH of the composition according to the invention can be determined in a conventional manner by those skilled in the art and depends inter alia on the stability range of the reducing agent or agents present in the composition. As an indication, the pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 14 approximately, and preferably between 5 and 12 approximately.

  It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents.

  Acidifying agents include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, acetic acid.

  Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, by way of examples, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and formula (A) below: R 'R'

NW-N R '

  wherein W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; the radicals R ', which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl radical.

  The composition according to the invention can be in the form of washing products, such as shampoos, but also hair conditioners, shaping products (for example lacquers, foams, etc.), products staining, bleaching, keratin fibers shaping.

  The present invention furthermore relates to processes implementing the composition according to the invention.

  Thus, the method consists in bringing the keratin materials, dry or moist, into contact with the composition according to the invention which has just been described.

  Generally, the exposure time of the composition is between a few seconds and 30 minutes, preferably between 3 and 15 minutes.

  The temperature at which the composition is allowed to act is generally between ambient temperature (15 to 25 ° C.) and 220 ° C., more particularly between ambient temperature and 80 ° C., preferably between 15 and 40 ° C.

  Preferably, the keratin materials are rinsed, advantageously with water, and if necessary, washed with a shampoo and then rinsed again with water According to a first particular embodiment, the subject of the invention is a permanent deformation process. human keratinous fibers comprising contacting, in a first step, a reducing composition with said keratinous fibers, the latter being shaped before, during or after the application of the reducing composition; then in a second step, to apply an oxidizing composition to the fibers thus treated; the compound bearing the four carboxylic functions and the pearlescent and / or opacifying agent present in the reducing composition and / or in the oxidizing composition.

  The first step is therefore to apply to said fibers, dry or wet, a reducing composition. This composition may optionally comprise the compound carrying the four carboxylic functions and the nacrant and / or opacifying agent. R '7

  Preferably, according to this first variant, the pH of the reducing composition applied is at least 7.

  If the operation is intended to curl the fibers, they are put under tension by means of curlers, before, during or after the application of the reducing composition. In the case of straightening, the composition is applied to the fibers by smoothing them.

  The exposure time is generally between a few seconds and 30 minutes, preferably between 3 and 15 minutes.

  The temperature at which the composition is allowed to act is generally between room temperature (15 to 25 ° C) and 220 ° C, more preferably between room temperature and 80 ° C, preferably between 15 and 40 ° C.

  It may be appropriate to carry out an intermediate step, between the reduction step and that of fixing (oxidation), to apply heat.

  Once the exposure time has elapsed and optionally this intermediate step carried out, an oxidizing composition is applied to the fibers.

  As indicated above, the oxidizing composition may optionally comprise the compound carrying the four carboxylic functions and the nacrant and / or opacifying agent.

  In a conventional manner, the composition comprises, as oxidizing agent, hydrogen peroxide, an alkaline bromate, a persalt or a polythionate.

  The pH of this oxidizing composition is generally between 2 and 10.

  Preferably, hydrogen peroxide is used with a pH advantageously between 2 and 7.

  The oxidizing composition may further be obtained by mixing at least two compositions, one of them comprising the oxidizing agent, the other comprising at least one alkaline agent.

  The oxidizing composition may be advantageously in the form of an emulsion, usually thickened.

  The exposure time of the oxidizing composition is generally between 3 and 30 minutes, preferably between 5 and 15 minutes.

  Most often, the fibers impregnated with the oxidizing composition are rinsed, usually with water. Before or after rinsing, the keratinous fibers are separated from the means necessary for putting them under tension.

  The fibers are then optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed and then dried or allowed to dry.

  What has been indicated above as to the nature of the various ingredients in the compositions, as well as their respective amounts, remains valid and will not be repeated in this part of the description.

  According to another variant, the process for shaping human keratinous fibers consists in applying to the keratin fibers, dry or wet, a composition comprising, in addition to the above-mentioned pearlescent and / or opacifying compound (s) and / or opacifying agents, at least one acalinizing agent, such as preferably sodium hydroxide.

  This type of composition is particularly suitable when one wishes to make a hair straightening step.

  Usually, the fibers are smoothed during or after application of the composition.

  The exposure time is in general between 3 and 30 minutes, preferably between and 15 minutes.

  The temperature at which the composition is allowed to act is generally between ambient temperature (15 to 25 ° C.) and 220 ° C., more particularly between ambient temperature and 80 ° C., preferably between 15 and 40 ° C.

  The fibers impregnated with the composition are rinsed thoroughly, generally with water, preferably washed with shampoo, rinsed and then dried or allowed to dry.

  According to a second particular embodiment, the subject of the invention is a method for bleaching keratinous fibers comprising bringing the ready-to-use composition into contact with said fibers for a time sufficient to obtain the desired effect.

  According to a first variant of this second embodiment, the ready-to-use composition comprises, in addition to the compound (s) carrying the four carboxylic functions and the pearlescent and / or opacifying agent (s), at least one oxidizing agent.

  A first possibility consists of a process carried out at an acidic pH (ie less than 7). Preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

  According to this first possibility, the composition applied to the keratinous fibers comprises at least one oxidizing agent, the compound and the nacrant and / or opacifying agent.

  A second possibility consists of a process carried out at a basic pH (greater than or equal to 7).

  In this case, the ready-to-use composition applied to the fibers is preferably obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application to the fibers, of a first composition comprising at least one persalt, with a second aqueous composition comprising an agent oxidant, and optionally a third composition comprising at least one alkaline agent; the nacreous and / or opacifying agent (s) and the compound comprising four carboxylic functions in acid or salified form, whether together or not in one and / or aforementioned compositions.

  Conventionally, the first composition is in an anhydrous form, and comprises at least one persalt, optionally at least one alkaline agent, and optionally at least one inert liquid.

  The second composition, which is an aqueous composition, preferably comprises, as oxidizing agent, hydrogen peroxide. Advantageously, the pH of this composition is less than or equal to 7.

  As indicated above, it is possible to use a third composition, which is also in an aqueous form, comprising at least one alkaline agent.

  The lists of the various ingredients that can be used in the composition according to the invention remain valid and can be referred to.

  The ready-to-use composition is therefore applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet, and then left for a sufficient exposure time to obtain the desired discoloration. At the end of this period, the composition is removed by rinsing with water, followed by washing with a shampoo, then optionally drying.

  Usually, the exposure time is between a few seconds and 30 minutes, preferably between 3 and 15 minutes.

  The temperature at which the composition is allowed to act is generally between room temperature (15 to 25 ° C) and 220 ° C, more preferably between room temperature and 80 ° C, preferably between 15 and 40 ° C.

  According to a second variant of this second embodiment, the ready-to-use composition comprises at least one reducing agent.

  This variant is particularly suitable when it is desired to remove artificial coloring, since this can be removed by carrying out a reduction reaction. This is called stripping.

  In this case, the ready-to-use composition is applied to fibers dyed by means of oxidation dyes (base and / or coupler), direct dyes, or a combination of these two families of dyes.

  In the more particular case where the ready-to-use composition comprises as reducing agent, at least one reductone or sulfinic acid derivative, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is advantageously less than 7, preferably between 3 and 7. The pH of the composition can be adapted conventionally using, as needed, one or more alkalinizing or acidifying agents, such as in particular those listed above.

  The method therefore consists in applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratinous fibers and then allowing the composition to remain for a sufficient time to obtain the discoloration, rinsing the fibers in order to eliminate the composition, washing them with a shampoo, rinse them and possibly dry them.

  Usually, the exposure time varies between a few seconds and 60 minutes, preferably between 1 and 60 minutes, and more preferably between 10 and 50 minutes.

  The temperature at which the composition is allowed to act is generally between room temperature (15 to 25 ° C.) and 220 ° C., more particularly between room temperature and 80 ° C., and preferably between 15 and 40 ° C.

  According to a third particular embodiment, the subject of the invention is a process for staining human keratin fibers in which the ready-to-use composition is brought into contact with said fibers for a time sufficient to obtain the desired effect.

  According to a first possibility, the ready-to-use composition does not comprise an oxidizing agent, it can be applied directly to the fibers.

  In this case, the ready-to-use composition comprises, in addition to the compound (s) carrying four carboxylic functions, the (s) agent (s) nacrant (s) and / or opacifier (s), at less a direct dye. This composition may be stored as it is or may result from the extemporaneous mixing of at least one composition comprising at least one nacrant and / or opacifying agent, of at least one composition comprising at least one direct dye: the compound carrying four carboxylic functions which may to be in one and / or the other of the compositions. Advantageously, the ready-to-use composition can be stored as it is.

  In the case of this first process possibility, the ready-to-use composition is applied for the time necessary for the development of the coloring, and then the fibers are allowed to dry or dry, without final rinsing or with rinsing.

  It is also possible to envisage with or without rinsing at the end of the laying time, to carry out a washing with a fiber shampoo, to rinse and dry them or to allow them to dry.

  The exposure time is from a few seconds to 60 minutes, more preferably from 5 to 60 minutes and preferably from 5 to 40 minutes.

  The temperature necessary for the development of the coloration is generally between room temperature (15 to 25 ° C.) and 220 ° C., more particularly between room temperature and 80 ° C., and advantageously between 15 and 40 ° C.

  According to a second possibility, the ready-to-use composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent. As indicated above, it is preferably obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before the application, of at least one composition comprising at least one nacrant and / or opacifying agent, at least one oxidation base and / or at least one coupler and / or at least one direct dye with at least one oxidizing composition; the compound having four carboxylic acid functions in one or more of the above-mentioned compositions.

  The oxidizing composition employed in this case is conventional and usually corresponds to an aqueous composition comprising an oxidizing agent as previously listed.

  The oxidizing composition can likewise comprise the usual additives in the field, such as, for example, surfactants, hydrophobic liquids (if the composition is in emulsified form); sequestering agents; stabilizing agents hydrogen peroxide; anti-foam agents, etc. As before, the exposure time is about a few seconds to 60 minutes, more preferably 5 to 60 minutes and preferably 5 to 40 minutes.

  As regards the temperature necessary for the development of the coloration, this is generally between ambient temperature (15 to 25 ° C.) and 220 ° C., more especially between ambient temperature and 80 ° C., and advantageously between 15 and 40 ° C.

  Once the desired coloration has been achieved, after possibly rinsing the fibers, the fibers are usually washed with a shampoo, rinsed and dried or allowed to dry.

  The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

EXAMPLE 1

  Ready-to-use decolorization compositions: Quantities (in%) Denomination Composition Composition Raw materials AB Potassium persulfate 27.8 24.4 Sodium disilicate 5.6 7.6 Ammonium chloride 2, 4 1.6 Urea / 1.8 Mica-titanium oxide (Flonac MS 10 C, Company 0.4 0.1 Eckart Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, trisodium salt in 0.4 0.32 aqueous solution (Octaquest E30, Octel Company Copolymer hexamethyl diisocyanate / 0, 2 / end-capped polyethylene glycol and c) stearyl polyoxyethylene (Nuvis FX 1100; Servo Delden Company) Crosslinked acrylic acid / C 1 -C 10 alkyl methacrylate copolymer (Carbopol ETD 2020; Noveon Company) Carboxymethyl apple starch soil / salt of / 0.8 sodium slightly crosslinked Guar gum 0.8 1 Color (ultramarine) 0.2 / Titanium oxide 0.2 0.4 Sodium lauryl sulfate 1 1 Calcium stearate 0.4 0, 4 Pyrogenic silica with hydrophilic character 1.2 0, 1 Hydrogenated polydecene (Silkflo 366 NF Polydecene / 0.8 Amoco Chemical Company) 9% oxygenated water 10.8 10.8 Cetyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 Oleic alcohol polyglycerol (2 moles) 0.4 0.4 Water Qsp 100 g Composition A during a exposure time of 45 minutes, under headphones, on dark natural hair, then rinsed thoroughly with water.

  Composition B is applied for a time of 30 minutes, under headphones, on dark natural hair, then rinsed thoroughly with water.

  Each of the ready-to-use compositions A and B has an ideal texture for easy (easy location) and quick application.

  In addition, they provide a powerful and uniform discoloration, with soft and shiny hair, and easy to disentangle.

  Quantities (in%) Denomination Composition Raw material C Cetyl alcohol 3 Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.5 Oleic alcohol polyglycerol (2 moles) 0.8 Distearyl ether (Cutina STE, Cognis) 0.7 Simethicone 0.045 Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, trisodium salt in 0.13 aqueous solution (Octaquest E30; Octel Copolymer AMPS / ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate (25 0E) 0.05 80/20, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (Aristoflex HMS, Clariant Company) Tetrasodium pyrophosphate, 10 H 2 O 0, 02 Sodium salicylate 0.01 Sodium stannate, 6 H2O 0.04 50% oxygen peroxide 12 85% phosphoric acid in aqueous solution Qsp pH = 2 Water Qs 100 g Anhydrous oxidizing compositions of discoloration in the form of pastes:

EXAMPLE 2

  Oxidizing composition for use in coloring, decolouring and deformation of human keratin fibers: Quantities (in%) Denomination Composition Composition Raw materials Potassium persulfate 41.8 41.6 Sodium disilicate 18 18 Ammonium chloride 4, 2 4, 2 Sequestrant 1 1 Glycol Distearate (Tegin BL 315, Company 1 1 Goldschmidt) Copolymer hexamethyl diisocyanate / 2 0.5 end-capped polyethylene glycol and stearyl polyoxyethylene (Nuvis FX 1100, Servo Delden Company) Copolymer Acrylic Acid Cross-linked alkyl (Clo I / 0.5 C30) methacrylate, (Carbopol ETD 2020, Noveon Company) Potato-methyl starch potato I 2-sodium salt, slightly crosslinked Guar gum / 2 Color (ultramarine) 0.5 0.5 Titanium oxide 1 1 Sodium lauryl sulphate 3,5 3,5 Calcium stearate 2 2 Pyrogenic silica with hydrophilic character 0,5 0,5 Isopropyl palmitate 22,5 / Beeswax 1 / Hydrogenated polydecene / 23 Silic The pyroglyceride having a hydrophobic character / 0.7 is mixed with 40 g of the bleaching composition D with 80 g of the oxidizing composition based on hydrogen peroxide C. The bleaching mixture which is ready for use thus obtained is then applied for a period of time. pose of 45 minutes, under helmet, on dark natural hair, then one rinses abundantly with the water.

  40 g of the bleaching composition E are mixed with 60 g of the oxidizing composition based on hydrogen peroxide C. The ready-to-use bleaching mixture thus obtained is applied during a laying time of 25 minutes, under helmet, on dark natural hair, then rinse thoroughly with water.

  The two ready-to-use compositions thus obtained have an ideal texture for easy application (easy location) and fast.

  In addition, with each of them, you get a powerful and homogeneous bleaching, with soft and shiny hair, and easy to unravel.

  Reducing Composition of Permanent Deformation: The following reducing composition is considered: Quantities (in g%) Denomination Composition F Raw Materials Thioglycolic acid 9.2 Arginine 15 Ammonia at 20% NH3 1.86 Ammonium carbonate 4.5 Cocoylamidopropylbetaine / monolaurate glycerol (25/5) in 30% aqueous solution 1.3 Peptant 0.8 Isostearyl alcohol 12 Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, trisodium salt in aqueous solution 0.4 (Octaquest E30, Octet Company) Distearyl ether (Cutina STE, Cognis) 0.4 Fragrance 0.4 Water Qsp 100 g The reducing composition F is applied to a lock of damp hair, previously wound on a curler 9 mm in diameter, during a laying time of 10 minutes.

  The composition has an ideal texture an ideal texture for easy application (easy location) and fast.

  Then, an abundant rinsing is carried out with the water of the wick. The oxidizing composition C is then applied during an exposure time of 10 minutes.

  Then, rinse thoroughly with water, unroll the hair curler and dry.

The wick obtained is wavy.

  Reducing compositions ready for use for bleaching: Quantities (in%) Denomination Composition Composition Composition Raw materials GHI Cetyl alcohol 3 3 3 Sodium lauryl sulphate 0.7 0.7 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 2 2 2 Propylene glycol 10 10 Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, 0.1 1 2 trisodium salt in aqueous solution (Octaquest E30, Octel Company) Mica-titanium oxide (Flonac MS 10 C, 0.5 Eckart Company) glycol distearate (Tegin BL 315; , 5 / Company Goldschmidt) Distearyl ether (Cutina STE; / / 0.5 Cognis) Sodium hydroxymethane sulfinate 7 7 / Ascorbic acid / / 10 Sulfite of sodium 3 Phosphoric acid at 85% in solution Qsp pH = 2.7 aqueous Water Qsp 100 g The bleaching compositions G, H and I are applied to natural gray hair with 90% white, previously colored by the 6.66 shade of the L'OREAL MAJIROUGE range, with a bath ratio of 10 g of product for 1 g of hair.

  After 30 minutes of installation, the locks are rinsed, then treated for 2 minutes with a 3% aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, and then rinsed again. A standard shampoo is then produced, followed by the drying of

hair.

  A powerful and homogeneous discoloration is obtained. The intense red glow has practically disappeared, revealing the hair almost as it was before the application of the dye

EXAMPLE 3

  Direct Coloring Composition: The following compositions (expressed in grams) were prepared: Oxidative Composition: Fatty Alcohol 2,3 Fatty Oxygenated Alcohol 0.6 Fatty Amide 0.9 Glycerine 0.5 Hydrogen Peroxide 7.5 Perfume qs Water demineralized .... gsp 100 Coloring compositions: Denomination Composition Composition Raw materials JK oxyethylenated fatty alcohols 32.5 32.5 Oleic acid 2 2 Oleic alcohol 1, 8 1.8 Fatty amide 4 4 Glycerine 3 3 Mica-titanium oxide ( Flonac MS 10 C Company 0.1 / Eckart) Glycol Distearate (Tegin BL 315, Company I 1 Goldschmidt) Copolymer dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride I 2 2 acrylic acid (80/20) in protected aqueous solution (Merquat 280; Nalco) Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, trisodium salt in 0.5 1 aqueous solution (Octaquest E30, Octel Company) Reducer qs qs Ammonia (20% NH3) 8 8 Diamino-1,4-nitro-2-benzene 0.6 0.6 Water Qs 100g The coloring compositions were mixed s, at the time of use, in a plastic bowl and for 2 minutes, to the oxidizing composition given above, at the rate of 1 part of dye composition to 1.5 parts of oxidizing composition.

  The mixtures obtained were applied to strands of natural hair with 90% of whites and left for 30 minutes.

  The ready-to-use compositions thus obtained have an ideal texture for easy (easy location) and rapid application.

  The locks were then rinsed with water, washed with standard shampoo, rinsed again with water, and then dried and disentangled.

  The hair was dyed in both cases in a powerful red shade, and the hair is not rough.

EXAMPLE 4

  Direct dyeing composition: The following composition L (expressed in grams) was prepared: Denomination Composition L Raw materials oxyethylenated fatty alcohols 32.5 Oleic acid 2 Oleic alcohol 1.8 Fatty amide 4 Glycerin 3 Basic Red 76 0.4 Ethylenediamine acid disuccinic, trisodium salt in 0.8 aqueous solution (Octaquest E30, Octel Company) Mica-titanium oxide (Flonac MS 10 C, Eckart Company) 0.3 Amino-2-methyl-2-propanol-1 Qs pH 8.5 Water Qsp 100 g This composition was applied during a pose time of 30 minutes, on gray hair at 90% white.

  After rinsing and drying the hair was colored in intense red and the hair was not rough.

EXAMPLE 5

  Oxidation coloring compositions: The following coloring compositions (expressed in grams) were prepared: Denomination Composition Composition Raw materials MN oxyethylenated fatty alcohols 32.5 32.5 Oleic acid 2 2 Oleic alcohol 1.8 1.8 Fatty amide 4 4 Glycerol 3 Polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39 %) and water (26%) (Aculyn 44, Rohm & Haas Company) Copolymer dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride I 2 2 acrylic acid (80/20) in protected aqueous solution (Merquat 280, Nalco Company) Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, trisodium salt in 0.8 1.8 aqueous solution (Octaquest E30, Octel Company) Reducer Qs qs Ammonia (20% NH3) 8 8 Paraphenylenediamine 0.324 0.324 2-methyl 5-amino phenol 0.369 0.369 Mica-titanium oxide (Flonac MS 10 C, Eckart Company ) 0.4 / D The coloring compositions were mixed, at the time of use, in a plastic bowl and for 2 minutes, with the oxidizing composition C, at a rate of 1 part of coloring composition for 1.5 parts of oxidizing composition.

  The mixtures obtained were applied to strands of natural hair with 90% of whites and left for 30 minutes.

  The ready-to-use compositions thus obtained have an ideal texture for easy (easy location) and rapid application.

  The locks were then rinsed with water, washed with standard shampoo, rinsed again with water, and then dried and disentangled.

  The hair was dyed in both cases in a powerful purple shade, and the hair is not rough.

Claims (17)

  A composition for treating human keratin materials, comprising: at least one compound selected from ethylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof, at least one pearlescent and / or opacifying agent .   2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the compound content is between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the weight. of the composition, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.   3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pearlescent and / or opacifying agent is chosen from the following organic compounds: i) esters of polyols having at least two carbon atoms, optionally oxyethylenated, and fatty acids; ii) esters of C10-C30 monoalcohols and fatty acids; iii) ethers of fatty alcohols, solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 30 C; iv) monoalcohols having at least 16 carbon atoms; v) alcohols C27-C48 and having one or two ether groups and / or thioether or sulfoxide; vi) alkanolamides of fatty acids; vii) C 10 -C 30 esters of C 10 -C 30 alkanolamides; viii) C10-C30 amine oxides; ix) benzoic acids N, N-dihydrocarbyl (C 10 -C 30) amido, x) cyclodextrins; and their mixtures.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pearlescent agent and / or opacifier is selected from inorganic compounds such as coated or uncoated titanium oxides, micas and mica titanium oxide, and their mixtures.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nacrant and / or opacifying agent content is from 0.2% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably 0.5 % to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one oxidizing agent.   7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, only or in mixtures.   8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises at least one reducing agent.   9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the reducing agent is chosen from reductones, compounds having at least one thiol, (di) sulfide, sulfite, sulfinic, or their salts, and mixtures thereof.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one direct dye, at least one oxidation base optionally associated with at least one coupler, or mixtures thereof.   11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the direct dye is an anionic dye, cationic or nonionic, chosen from nitro benzene dyes, azo, azomethine, methine, tetraazapenthamethine, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzoquinone, and phenothiazine dyes. indigoids, xanthenics, phenanthridines, phthalocyanines, those derived from triarylmethane, natural dyes, alone or in mixtures.   12. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the oxidation base is chosen from ortho-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylenediamines, ortho-aminophenols, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, and bases. heterocyclic acid addition salts thereof and mixtures thereof.   13. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the coupler is chosen from meta-aminophenols, metaphenylenediamines, meta-diphenols, naphthols, heterocyclic couplers, their addition salts with an acid, and their mixtures. .   14. A method of treating human keratinous material, comprising applying to said material, dry or wet, a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.   15. A method of permanent deformation of human keratin fibers comprising contacting a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 with said fibers for a time sufficient to obtain the desired effect.   16. A method of bleaching human keratin fibers comprising contacting a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 with said fibers for a time sufficient to achieve the desired effect.   17. A method of staining human keratin fibers comprising contacting a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 and 10 to 13 with said fibers for a time sufficient to obtain the desired effect.