FR2854063A1 - The use in a makeup composition, for use as, e.g., as a foundation or face powder, of a liquid phase comprising a non-volatile oil with specified Hansen solubility and a volatile oil with specified surface tension and speed of evaporation - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of a liquid phase comprising a first non-volatile oil with specified Hansen solubility parameters or a mixture of such oils and a second volatile oil with specified surface tension and speed of evaporation in a cosmetic composition comprising a powder phase comprising a sebum absorbing powder and a second powder with specified critical surface energy to obtain a non-shiny and/or homogeneous and/or non-transferring and/or rub-resistant and/or initial color-maintaining makeup. The first oil has Hansen solubility parameters delta Ld, delta Lp and delta Lh, expressed in J1>>2>.cm->3>>2>, such that delta delta = [4(16.4-delta Ld)2>+(0.9-delta Lp)2>+(4.2-delta Lh)2>] and delta delta is 2-20. The second volatile oil has a surface tension 21 mN/m or less and evaporation speed 0.001-200 mg/cm2>/minute. The sebum absorbing powder has a specified sebum take-up. The second powder has critical surface energy 24 mN/m or less. Independent claims are included for: (1) the composition itself; and (2) a non-therapeutic procedure for the makeup and/or care of the skin.

Description

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The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of powders and a particular liquid fatty phase. The subject of the invention is also a process for making up or caring for keratin materials such as skin, lips, nails or human hair, comprising applying the composition to keratin materials.

The composition according to the invention may be a composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular a makeup composition for the skin, such as a foundation, an eyeshadow, a blush, a concealer product, a powder of the face and body, a body make-up product.

The makeup powders generally comprise, on the one hand, a pulverulent phase comprising in particular pigments and fillers and, on the other hand, a fatty phase as a binder comprising fatty substances, intended to give the finished product a certain density, to give a softness and an emollient property to the makeup product and to promote its adhesion to the skin.

After the application of makeup on the skin, the sebum excreted by the skin over time changes the cosmetic properties of makeup. In particular, sebum does not promote the adhesion of makeup to the skin: the makeup tends to transfer to the surfaces or fabrics put in contact with the makeup skin resulting in a loss of makeup remaining on the skin. In addition, makeup impregnated with sebum tends to migrate more easily in the folds or wrinkles of the face making the deposit of non-homogeneous makeup. In addition, sebum makes the makeup more sensitive to friction, including friction tissue, fingers causing a removal of makeup over time. The poor makeup performance during the day requires the user to renew the application of makeup to maintain a uniform makeup.

In addition, sebum has a tendency to change the color of the makeup deposited on the skin, the color becomes darker; this modification of the color goes against the desired color aesthetic effect since the visual appearance of the makeup no longer corresponds to the initial color of the chosen composition. Makeup also becomes brighter; this shiny appearance is not sought after for a foundation, consumers preferring a matte makeup and keeping this dullness during the day.

It is known from WO 97/04737 to employ sebum-absorbing powders in admixture with fillers and / or pigments in makeup powder compositions. However, the fillers and the pigments can also be impregnated with sebum and the adsorption of the sebum is not selectively made by the sebum-absorbing powders, causing a change in the color and

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 a brilliant appearance of makeup. In addition, when the make-up composition contains fatty substances, certain fatty substances such as parlam (hydrogenated polyisobutene) tend to be adsorbed by the sebum-absorbing powder and therefore reduce the effectiveness of these powders when the makeup is applied to the skin. skin.

Moreover, to facilitate the use of the powders in the cosmetic compositions, volatile oils are used to allow in particular to obtain a homogeneous mixture of the different powders. However, not all volatile oils are suitable for all types of powders, especially for powders coated with fluorinated or silicone compounds, and do not all ensure the production of a homogeneous mixture of powders.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a homogeneous makeup composition that can effectively absorb sebum, and thus to impart makeup having good cosmetic properties over time, in particular having a maintenance of the initial color of the skin. makeup, lack of shine (mattness) and good homogeneity.

The inventors have discovered that such a composition is obtained by employing a sebum-absorbing powder and a powder having a particular critical surface energy associated with a particular nonvolatile oil and volatile oil.

This combination of selected powders and oils makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous mixture of powders, a good effectiveness of the sebum-absorbing powder when the makeup is deposited on the skin and thus prevents sebum excreted over time from modifying the properties. makeup cosmetics.

8d, ôL p, 8-h, exprimés en J1/2 cm-3'2 , tels que

et ## va de 2 à 20, ou un mélange de telles premières huiles non volatiles, et une deuxième huile volatile ayant une tension de surface inférieure ou égale à 21 mN/m et une vitesse d'évaporation allant de 0,001 mg/cm2/minute à 200 mg/cm2/minute. More specifically, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a powdery phase containing a sebum sebum first sebum powder, a second powder having a critical surface energy of less than or equal to 24 mN / m, and a liquid fatty phase comprising a first non-volatile oil having Hansen solubility parameters

8d, δL p, 8-h, expressed in J1 / 2 cm-3'2, such that

and ## ranges from 2 to 20, or a mixture of such first nonvolatile oils, and a second volatile oil having a surface tension less than or equal to 21 mN / m and an evaporation rate of 0.001 mg / cm 2 / minute at 200 mg / cm 2 / minute.

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The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for makeup or non-therapeutic care of keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above. The keratin materials are in particular the skin of human being.

The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above to obtain a makeup of the non-glossy and / or homogeneous and / or non-transferable and / or friction-resistant and / or maintenance-free skin. initial color.

5p, cS h , exprimés en J'2. ., cm-3/2 tels que

et ## va de 2 à 20, ou un mélange de telles premières huiles non volatiles, et une deuxième huile volatile ayant une tension de surface inférieure ou égale à 21 mN/m et une vitesse d'évaporation allant de 0,001 mg/cm/minute à 200 mg/cm2/minute, dans une composition cosmétique comprenant une phase pulvérulente contenant une première poudre absorbant le sébum ayant une prise de sébum, et une deuxième poudre ayant une énergie de surface critique inférieure ou égale à 24 mN/m, pour obtenir un maquillage de la peau non brillant et/ou homogène et/ou non transfert et/ou résistant aux frottements et/ou présentant un maintien de la couleur initiale. The subject of the invention is also the use of a liquid fatty phase comprising a first non-volatile oil having Hansen #Ld solubility parameters,

5p, cS h, expressed in I2. ., cm-3/2 such as

and ## is from 2 to 20, or a mixture of such first nonvolatile oils, and a second volatile oil having a surface tension less than or equal to 21 mN / m and an evaporation rate of 0.001 mg / cm / minute at 200 mg / cm 2 / min, in a cosmetic composition comprising a powdery phase containing a sebum-sebum first sebum powder, and a second powder having a critical surface energy of less than or equal to 24 mN / m, for obtaining a non-glossy and / or homogeneous and / or non-transferable and / or abrasion resistant and / or maintaining initial color makeup.

The composition according to the invention contains a sebum-absorbing powder having an intake of sebum. Advantageously, sebum intake of the powder is greater than or equal to 1 ml / g, in particular ranging from 1 ml / g to 20 ml / g, or even ranging from 1 ml / g to 15 ml / g. Preferably, the powder has a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 1.5 ml / g, especially ranging from 1.5 ml / g to 20 ml / g, or even ranging from 1.5 ml / g to 15 ml / g and preferably greater than or equal to 2 ml / g, in particular ranging from 2 ml / g to 20 ml / g, or even ranging from 2 ml / g to 15 ml / g.

By sebum-absorbing powder is meant a powder capable of absorbing and / or adsorbing the sebum.

Sebum intake is the amount of sebum absorbed and / or adsorbed by the powder. It is measured according to the Wet Point method described below.

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Advantageously, the sebum-absorbing powder may have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m 2 / g, preferably greater than 500 m 2 / g, and preferably greater than 600 m 2 / g, and especially less than 1500 m 2 / g.

The BET specific surface is determined according to the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (therefore micropores included) of the powder.

The sebum-absorbing powder may be a mineral powder or an organic powder; it may be chosen from silica, polyamide powders (nylon), acrylic polymer powders, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of allyl polymethacrylate / dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; the elastomeric silicone powders, in particular obtained by polymerization of organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (in particular two vinyl groups) in the presence of platinum catalyst.

The sebum-absorbing powder may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

As silica powder, mention may be made of:

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 - The porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700 by the company MYOSHI; "SUNSPHERE # H51", "SUNSPHERE H33" by ASAHI GLASS; the amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA Sunsphere H 33", "SA Sunsphere H53" by the company Asahi Glass.

As powder of acrylic polymers, mention may be made of: the polymethyl methacrylate powders sold under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; the poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE SKIN OIL ADSORBER by the company Dow Corning; GANZPEARL GMP-0820 by the company GANZ CHEMICAL; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name POLY-PORE L200 and POLY-PORE # E200 by the company AMCOL; the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders sold under the name Polytrap 6603 from the company Dow Corning.

As nylon powder, mention may be made of the nylon powder sold under the name ORGASOL 4000 by the company ATOCHEM.

As the elastomeric silicone powder, mention may be made of the powders sold under the names "Trefil Powder E-505C" and "Trefil Powder E-506C" by the company Dow Corning.

The particularly preferred sebum-absorbing powder is silica powder, especially having the characteristics described above, in particular having a sebum uptake of greater than or equal to 2 ml / g, in particular ranging from 2 ml / g to ml / g. Such a silica powder is sold, for example, under the name Sunsphere # H 33 by ASAHI GLASS.

The powder that absorbs sebum may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 60% by weight or even from 1% to 15% by weight.

The composition according to the invention also contains a powder, called second powder, having a critical surface energy less than or equal to 24 mN / m (in particular ranging from 10 to 24 mN / m), and preferably less than or equal to 20 mN / m (in particular ranging from 10 to 20 mN / m).

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The critical surface energy of a powder is measured according to the method described below.

The second powder may be a powder coated with a fluorinated organic compound or a silicone compound.

The powder (intended to be coated) may be chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents and fillers usually used in cosmetic compositions, such as those described below in the descriptive part of the additional powders.

The fluorinated organic compound coating the powder may be a perfluoroalkylphosphate or a hexafluoropropylene polyoxide.

Powders coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate are described in particular in documents US Pat. No. 3,632,744, JP-A-04-330007 and JP-A-2001-316223.

The perfluoroalkyl phosphate may in particular be chosen from those of formula (I) [CmF2m + 1CnH2nO] yPO (OM) 3.y with m integer ranging from 1 to 21; integer from 1 to 14; y = 1, 2 or 3; is H, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or an ammonium group substituted with one to three C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals.

According to another embodiment, the second powder may be a powder coated with a silicone compound, such as meticones, dimethicones, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, perfluoroalkyl silanes.

As coated powder having a critical surface energy as defined above, it is possible to use: As coated powders having a surface energy as defined above, it is possible to use: powders coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and butyl acrylate copolymer perfluoroalkyl (C6-C14) ethyl acrylate / mercaptopropyldimethicone sold under the trade names "NOVATECH NFP Double Treated Talc", "NOVATECH NFP Double Treated Sericite", "NOVATECH NFP Double Treated Yellow Iron Oxide", "NOVATECH NFP Double Treated Red Iron Oxide" ,

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 "NOVATECH NFP Double Treated Black Iron Oxide", "NOVATECH NFP Double Treated Titanium Dioxide" by the company DAIKIN; the powders coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, butyl acrylate / perfluoroalkyl (C1-C14) ethyl acrylate / mercaptopropyldimethicone copolymer and with hydroxyethyl methacrylate / perfluoro (C6-C14) alkyl acrylate copolymer sold under the names "NOVATECH" NFP Triple Treated Talc "," NOVATECH NFP Triple Treated Sericite "," NOVATECH NFP Triple Treated Yellow Iron Oxide "," NOVATECH NFP Triple Treated Red Iron Oxide "," NOVATECH NFP Triple Treated Black Oxide Lime "," NOVATECH NFP Triple Treated Titanium Dioxide "by the company DAIKIN.

The fluorinated organic compound or the silicone compound coating the powder may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated powder, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight.

The second powder as described above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 90%. by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 80% by weight.

The liquid fatty phase of the composition comprises a first non-volatile oil or a mixture of first non-volatile oils.

The expression "non-volatile oil" means an oil capable of remaining on the skin at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, which is not zero, less than at 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

The first non-volatile oil has Hansen solubility parameters #Ld, #Lp, #Lh, expressed in J1 / 2. cm-3/2, such that ## = # 4 (16.4- # dL) 2 + (0.9- # pL) 2 + (4.2-Si) 2 and ## is from 2 to 20, preferably from 4 to 16 and preferentially ranges from 6 to 16.

Advantageously, #Ld is less than or equal to 17, preferably less than or equal to 14.

The solubility parameters are Hansen's solubility parameters as defined in CM HANSEN's article "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol 39.105 (1967) and in the following work: "Handbook of solubility Parameters ", Allan F. BARTON, CRC Press, 1991.

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 - #Ld is the dispersive component of the solubility parameter of the first non-volatile oil, - #Lp is the polar component of the solubility parameter of the first non-volatile oil, - #Lh is the component of the specific bonds (hydrogen bonds) of the solubility parameter of the first non-volatile oil.

Advantageously, the first non-volatile oil has a viscosity, measured at 25 ° C., of greater than or equal to 5 × 10 -2 Pa · s (50 cps), in particular ranging from 5 × 10 -2 Pa · s to 40 Pa · s ( 40,000 cps), and preferably greater than or equal to 9 x 10 -2 Pa s (90 cps), in particular ranging from 9 x 10 -2 Pa s to 40 Pa s.

The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C. ± 0.5 ° C. using a Haque RS75 imposed constraint rheometer from Thermo Rhéo equipped with a cone / plane geometry mobile having a diameter of between 2 cm and 6 cm. and at an angle of between 1 and 2, the choice of the mobile being a function of the viscosity to be measured (the more the oil is fluid, the larger the diameter of the selected cone and the smaller the angle). The measurement is carried out by imposing on the oil sample a logarithmic shear stress bar ranging from 0.2 Pa to 1000 Pa for a period of 20 minutes. The rheogram representing the evolution of the viscosity as a function of the shear rate is then plotted. The rheogram has a plateau with low values of shear velocity (called Newtonian plateau); this plate corresponds to a stable value of viscosity which is the viscosity of the oil thus determined.

The first non-volatile oil as described above may be chosen in particular from tri-iso arachidyl citrate, polyvinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 5000 to 9000 (such as that sold under the name ANTARON V-216 by ISP), butyl-2-octanol trimellitate, triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl trimellitate, 2-polyglyceryl triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraethyl 2-hexanoate, triisodecyl trimellitate, diisostearyl malate, tri-ethyl-2-hexyl trimellitate, 2octyl-dodecanol, octyl hydroxystearate, polybutylene with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 800 to 1200 (such as that sold under the name Indopol H-100 by the company Amoco) ), isostearyl lactate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate, castor oil, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, glyceryl triacetate oxyethylenated (7 EO), polyglyceryl 3 diisostearate, poly methyltrifluoropropyl dimethylsiloxane of formula (I):

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dans laquelle n est un entier allant de 5 à 90, de préférence allant de 30 à 80 et mieux allant de 50 à 80, et m est un entier allant de 1 à 150, de préférence allant de 1 à 80, et mieux allant de 1 à 40, a est un entier allant de 0 à 5, Rf désigne un radical perfluoroalkyle ayant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone.

wherein n is an integer from 5 to 90, preferably from 30 to 80 and more preferably from 50 to 80, and m is an integer from 1 to 150, preferably from 1 to 80, and more preferably from 1 to 40, a is an integer from 0 to 5, Rf is a perfluoroalkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms.

As a compound of formula (1), mention may be made of those sold under the name X22-819, X22-820, X22-821, X22-822 by the company Shin-Etsu.

As the first non-volatile oil, it is also possible to use perfluoropolyether oils such as the perfluoro poly methylisopropyl ether of average molecular weight by weight of 1500 sold under the name "Fomblin HC04" by the company Ausimont.

The first particularly preferred nonvolatile oil is the poly (methylfluoroalkyl) dimethylsiloxane of formula (I) defined above. In particular, this first preferred non-volatile oil can be used with the preferred sebum-absorbing silica powder described above.

The first non-volatile oil as defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 75% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight.

The composition according to the invention also comprises a volatile oil, called second volatile oil, having a surface tension less than or equal to 21 mN / m, preferably less than or equal to 20 mN / m (and in particular greater than 10 mN / m ), and an evaporation rate ranging from 0.001 mg / cm 2 / minute to 200 mg / cm 2 / minute.

By volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. This oil has in particular a vapor pressure, at ambient temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) greater than 0.01 and less than or equal to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa to 40 000 Pa) and preferably from 0.05 to 300 mmHg (6.65 Pa to 40,000 Pa).

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The surface tension of the volatile oil and its evaporation rate are measured according to the protocols described below.

The volatile oil may be chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone, alone or as a mixture.

As volatile oil having the properties defined above, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, the C 8 -C 18 isoalkanes sold under the name "ISOPAR E" by the company EXXON MOBIL CHEMICAL, nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoromorpholine, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile oil having the properties defined above may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 75% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight.

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise an additional nonvolatile oil different from the first nonvolatile oil described above, or a mixture of such additional nonvolatile oils.

In particular, the additional nonvolatile oil has Hansen parameters such that ## defined above is less than 2 or greater than 16.

The additional non-volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or a fluorinated oil.

As the second non-volatile oil, mention may be made of mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, oil and the like. rapeseed, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil; hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin oils, squalane, petroleum jelly; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- laurate hexyldecyl, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin or diglycerine triisostearate; perfluorinated oils; the higher fatty acids

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 such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol; and their mixtures.

When the composition according to the invention comprises an additional nonvolatile oil, this nonvolatile oil may be present in a quantity by volume less than or equal to 0.9 × (sebum sebum powder sebum) x (amount by weight of sebum-absorbing powder present in the composition), preferably less than or equal to 0.7 × (sebum powder sebum taking sebum) x (amount by weight of sebum-absorbing powder present in the composition), and preferably lower than equal to 0.5 x (sebum sebum powder sebum) x (amount by weight of sebum-absorbing powder present in the composition).

Advantageously, when the composition comprises an additional nonvolatile oil, the first nonvolatile oil or the mixture of first nonvolatile oils, and the additional nonvolatile oil, or the mixture of additional nonvolatile oils, may be present in the composition. according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight.

According to a particular embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the liquid fatty phase comprises 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of non-volatile oils, of the first non-volatile oil as defined above or of a mixture such first oils.

The composition may further comprise an additional volatile oil different from the second volatile oil described above, especially chosen from volatile oils having a surface tension greater than 21 mN / m.

As additional volatile oil, there may be mentioned isododecane, isohexadecane, C11-C13 isoalkanes sold under the name "Isopar L" by Exxon MOBIL CHEMICAL, isodecyl neopentanoate.

The additional volatile oil may be present at a level lower than the total weight of non-volatile oil (s) and volatile oil (s) with a surface tension of 21 mN / m or less present in the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase containing water. The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

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The aqueous phase may also comprise solvents other than water such as, for example, primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the aqueous phase, and especially water, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the composition may be an anhydrous composition, that is to say a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

The pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may contain additional powders different from sebum-absorbing powders and powders having a critical surface energy of less than or equal to 24 mN / m described above. These additional powders therefore have a sebum intake of less than 1 ml / g and a critical surface energy of greater than 24 mN / m.

The additional powder may be chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents and fillers.

By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

By nacres, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent form, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized.

The pigments may be present in the composition, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally treated with

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 oxides of zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight.

The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, inter alia, blue. ferric oxide or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

The fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 98.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 85% by weight.

The additional powder may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 98.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of

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 preferably ranging from 0.1% to 85% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 70% by weight.

The composition may contain other usual cosmetic ingredients that may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active ingredients.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a compact powder, a pressed powder, a cast powder or a loose powder. It can also be in the form of a gel, a water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water, a multiple emulsion, a milk, a paste.

The invention is further illustrated by the examples described hereinafter.

Measurement method for taking sebum from a powder: Sebum intake of a powder is measured according to the method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of sebum adsorbed on the available surface of the powder by measuring the Wet Point.

An amount m (in grams) of powder of between about 0.5 g and 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the powder) is placed on a glass plate and artificial sebum having the following composition is added dropwise. :

<Tb>
<tb> - <SEP> triolein <SEP> 29 <SEP>% <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> acid <SEP> oleic <SEP> 28.5 <SEP>% <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> oleate <SEP> of oleyl <SEP> 18.5%
<tb> - <SEP> squalene <SEP> 14%
<tb> - <SEP> cholesterol <SEP> 7 <SEP>% <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> palmitate <SEP> of <SEP> cholesterol <SEP> 3 <SEP>% <SEP>
<Tb>
After addition of 4 to 5 drops of artificial sebum, the artificial sebum is incorporated in the powder using a spatula and artificial sebum is added until the formation of conglomerates of artificial sebum and powder. From this moment, the artificial sebum is added at a rate of one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of artificial sebum is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the plate

<Desc / Clms Page number 15>

 glass without cracking or lumping. We then note the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of artificial sebum used.

Sebum intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

Method for measuring the critical surface energy of a powder: The powder is compacted with a pelletizer, of the Manual Hydraulic Press type, manufactured by Perkin-Elmer (used to make the samples analyzed by infra-red spectroscopy). The compaction pressure is 10 tons. The compacted powder pellet has a diameter of about 10 mm and a thickness of about 1 mm.

The compacted powder pellets are placed on the sample holder of a contact angle tensiometer such as the DAT 1100 tensiometer, sold by the company Fibro (Sweden).

The contact angle measurements are carried out at 27 +/- 1 C with the following 3 solvents: water, diiodomethane and formamide.

For each of the solvents, a drop of solvent, with a volume of between 5 and 10 microliters, is deposited on the powder pellet. The optical and image analysis system of the blood pressure monitor makes it possible to follow the evolution over time of the spreading of the drop. The contact angle of the liquid on the compacted powder corresponds to the angle between the powder / liquid contact surface and the tangent to the drop passing through the point where the drop, the air and the surface meet.

The value of the contact angle used for the determination of the critical surface energy is the average of the contact angles measured on 5 to 10 pellets of powder, the values of the angle being taken after a contact time drop of solvent / powder pastile equal to 1 second.

For the determination of the critical surface energy, the cosine evolution of the contact angle as a function of the surface tension of the associated solvent is plotted on a graph for the 3 solvents tested.

The critical surface energy of the powder then corresponds to the surface tension such that the cosine of the contact angle is equal to 1 when the evolution of the contact angle is linearly extrapolated as a function of the Surface tension.

Measurement of the surface tension of a volatile oil: The surface tension is determined by the method known as the hanging drop.

It is measured at 25 C plus or minus 1 C using a Fibro DAT 1100 tensiometer, sold by the company FIBRO (Sweden). A drop of volatile oil is formed using a syringe controlled by the tensiometer at the outlet of a Teflon cannula of internal diameter equal to 200 m and internal diameter

<Desc / Clms Page number 16>

 equal to 1.5 mm and maintained in a vertical position. The volume of the drop is between 1 and 10 microliters, preferably between 5 and 10 microliters. The hanging drop is observed using a camera built into the meter and its shape is parameterized by the software of the FIBRO DAT 1100 tensiometer using a method of solving the Laplace equation. The result is given in mN / m.

Measurement of the evaporation rate of an oil: is introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in an enclosure of about 0.3 m3 regulated in temperature (25 C) and hygrometry ( relative humidity 50%) 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute).

Example 1 A makeup powder having the following composition was prepared: coated talc

<Tb>
<tb>("NOVATECH<SEP> NFP <SEP> Triple <SEP> treated <SEP>TALC"<SEP> from <SEP> DAIKIN) <SEP> 35.4 <SEP> g
<tb> Sericite <SEP> coated
<tb>("NOVATECH<SEP> NFP <SEP> Triple <SEP> treated <SEP> sericite <SEP> of <SEP> DAIKIN) 30 <SEP> g
<tb> Porous Silica <SEP> Porous <SEP> (Sunsphere # <SEP> H33 <SEP> of <SEP> ASAHI <SEP> GLASS) <SEP> 10 <SEP> g
<tb> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> yellow <SEP> 5 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> brown <SEP> 3 <SEP> g
<tb> Blue <SEP> Overseas <SEP> 3.7 <SEP> g
<tb> Dioxide <SEP> of <SEP> titanium <SEP> 2.9 <SEP> g
<tb> Silicone <SEP> fluorinated * <SEP> (X22-819 <SEP> from <SEP> Shin-Etsu) <SEP> 2 <SEP> g
<tb> Perfluoro <SEP> poly <SEP> methylisopropyl <SEP> ether <SEP> of <SEP> weight
<tb> molecular <SEP> medium <SEP> in <SEP> weight <SEP> of <SEP> 1500
<tb> (FOMBLIN <SEP> HC / 04 <SEP> from <SEP> AUSIMONT) <SEP> 5 <SEP> g
<tb> isononyl isononanoate <SEP><SEP> 3 <SEP> g
<Tb>
* poly methyltrifluoropropyl dimethylsiloxane

<Desc / Clms Page number 17>

 After application of this powder on the skin, a makeup having a good ability to absorb the sebum excreted by the skin during the day, remaining homogeneous, not glossy and maintaining the color, is obtained.

Example 2: A foundation (W / O emulsion) having the following composition was prepared:

<Tb>
<tb> - <SEP> Fluorinated <SEP> Silicone * <SEP> (X22-819 <SEP> of <SEP> Shin-Etsu) <SEP> 3.9 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Cyclopentasiloxane <SEP> 15.5 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Polydimethylsiloxane <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Bentonite <SEP> 2.5 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP><SEP> mixture of <SEP> cetyl <SEP> dimethicone <SEP> copolyol, <SEP> isostearate <SEP> from
<tb> polyglycerol-4 <SEP> and <SEP> of <SEP> laurate <SEP> of hexyl <SEP> 40/30/30
<tb> (ABIL <SEP> WE <SEP> 09 <SEP> of <SEP> Goldschmidt) <SEP> 1.7 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> yellow <SEP> coated <SEP>("NOVATECH<SEP> NFP <SEP> Double <SEP> Treated
<tb> Yellow <SEP> Iron <SEP> Oxide "<SEP> from <SEP> DAIKIN) <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> brown <SEP> coated <SEP>("NOVATECH<SEP> NFP <SEP> Double <SEP> Treated
<tb> Red <SEP> Iron <SEP> Oxide "<SEP> from <SEP> DAIKIN) <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> black <SEP> coated <SEP>("NOVATECH<SEP> NFP <SEP> Double <SEP> Treated
<tb> Black <SEP> Iron <SEP> Oxide "<SEP> from <SEP> DAIKIN) <SEP> 0.1 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Dioxide <SEP> of <SEP> Titanium <SEP> Coated <SEP>("NOVATECH<SEP> NFP <SEP> Double
<tb> Treated <SEP> Titanium <SEP> Dioxide "<SEP> from <SEP> DAIKIN) <SEP> 3.9 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Porous Silica <SEP> Porous <SEP> (Sunsphere <SEP> H51 <SEP> of <SEP> ASAHI <SEP> GLASS) <SEP> 4.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Sericite <SEP> coated <SEP>("NOVATECH<SEP> NFP <SEP> Triple <SEP> treated
<tb> sericite "<SEP> of <SEP> DAIKIN) <SEP> 6.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Water <SEP> 48.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Glycerin <SEP> 5.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Ethanol <SEP> 5.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Conservative <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> g <SEP>
<Tb>
* Poly methyltrifluoropropyl dimethylsiloxane After application of this foundation on the skin, a makeup is obtained having a good ability to absorb the sebum excreted by the skin during the day, remaining homogeneous, not glossy and maintaining the color.

Example 3: A foundation was prepared (O / W emulsion) having the following composition:

<Desc / Clms Page number 18>

<Tb>
<tb> - <SEP> Polybutylene <SEP> (INDOPOL <SEP> H100 <SEP> of <SEP> AMOCO) <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Fluorinated Silicone SEP><SEP> (X22-819 <SEP> of <SEP> Shin-Etsu) <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Isododecane <SEP> 19.0 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Lauroyl <SEP> sarcosinate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP><SEP> Stearic acid <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> stearate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 2,6 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Isostearate <SEP> of <SEP> Glycerol <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Triethanolamine <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> yellow <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> brown <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> black <SEP> 0.1 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Dioxide <SEP> of <SEP> Titanium <SEP> 3.9 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Porous Silica <SEP> Porous <SEP> (Sunsphere <SEP> H53 <SEP> of <SEP> ASAHI <SEP> GLASS) <SEP> 5.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Talc <SEP> coated <SEP>("NOVATECH<SEP> NFP <SEP> Triple <SEP> treated <SEP>TALC"
<tb><SEP> DAIKIN) <SEP> 5.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Water <SEP> 53.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Conservative <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> g <SEP>
<Tb>
After application of this foundation on the skin, a makeup is obtained having a good ability to absorb the sebum excreted by the skin during the day, remaining homogeneous, not glossy and maintaining the color.

EXAMPLE 4 An anhydrous cast foundation having the following composition is prepared:

<Tb>
<tb> - <SEP> Wax <SEP> of <SEP> polyethylene <SEP> (Polywax <SEP> 500 <SEP> of <SEP> Bareco) <SEP> 4.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Wax <SEP> of <SEP> polyethylene <SEP> (Performalene <SEP> 400
<tb> Polyethylene <SEP> of <SEP> New <SEP> Phase <SEP> Technologies) <SEP> 8.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane <SEP> 38.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Fluorinated <SEP> Silicone * <SEP> (X22-819 <SEP> of <SEP> Shin-Etsu) <SEP> 5.0 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> yellow <SEP> 2.2 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Oxide <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> brown <SEP> 0.6 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Blue <SEP> Overseas <SEP> 0.3 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Dioxide <SEP> of <SEP> titanium <SEP> 7.0 <SEP> g
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 19>

 - Porous silica (ASAHI GLASS Sunsphere H53) 5.0 g - Coated serum (DAIKIN "NOVATECH NFP Triple treated sericite") 2.0 g - ATOCHEM nylon powder (ORGASOL # 4000) 7.9 g * methyltrifluoropropyl dimethylsiloxane This foundation applied to the face provides a uniform makeup, absorbing the sebum during the day.

Claims (43)

 and ## is from 2 to 20, or a mixture of such first non-volatile oils, and a second volatile oil having a surface tension of less than 21 mN / m and an evaporation rate of from 0.001 mg / cm 2 / minute to 200 mg / cm 2 / minute.

 solubility parameters of Hansen 8''d. cSp, 8L h, expressed as J1I2. cm-32, such as

 1. A cosmetic composition comprising a pulverulent phase containing a sebum sebum first sebum powder, a second powder having a critical surface energy of less than or equal to 24 mN / m, and a liquid fatty phase comprising a first non-sebum oil. volatile having 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the powder has a sebum intake greater than or equal to 1 ml / g, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5 ml / g, and preferably greater than or equal to 2 ml. / g. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the sebum-absorbing powder has a specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m 2 / g, preferably greater than 500 m 2 / g, and preferably greater than 600 m 2 / g. . 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sebum-absorbing powder is selected from silica, acrylic polymer powders, polyamide powders, elastomeric silicone powders. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sebum-absorbing powder is chosen from powders of polymethyl methacrylate, poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the powder absorbing sebum is a silica powder. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sebum-absorbing powder is present in a content ranging from 1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 60% by weight. <Desc / Clms Page number 21> 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second powder has a critical surface energy of 10 to 24 mN / m. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second powder has a critical surface energy of less than or equal to 20 mN / m, preferably ranging from 10 to 20 mN / m. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second powder is a powder coated with a fluorinated organic compound or a silicone compound. 11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fluorinated organic compound is a perfluoroalkyl phosphate or a hexafluoropropylene polyoxide. 12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the perfluoroalkyl phosphate is chosen from those of formula (I): [CmF2m + 1 CnH2nO] yPO (OM) 3-y with m integer ranging from 1 to 21; integer from 1 to 14; y = 1, 2 or 3; is H, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or an ammonium group substituted with one to three C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals. 13. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the silicone compound is chosen from meticones, dimethicones and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups and perfluoroalkyl silanes. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 13, characterized in that the fluorinated organic compound or the silicone compound coating the powder is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 60% by weight, relative to total weight of the coated powder, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second powder is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 80% by weight. <Desc / Clms Page number 22>  16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first nonvolatile oil is such that it ranges from 4 to 16, preferably from 6 to 16. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first non-volatile oil is such that #Ld is less than or equal to 17, preferably less than or equal to 14. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises a first non-volatile oil having a viscosity, measured at 25 ° C., of greater than or equal to 5 × 10 -2 Pa · s (50 cps), especially ranging from 5 × 10 -2 Pa.s to 40 Pa · s (40,000 cps), and preferably greater than or equal to 9 × 10 -2 Pa · s (90 cps), in particular ranging from 9 × 10-2 Pa s at 40 Pa.s. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first non-volatile oil is chosen from the group formed by tri-iso arachidyl citrate, polyvinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene of average molecular weight by weight ranging from 5000 to 9000, butyl-2-octanol trimellitate, triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl trimellitate, polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-hexanoate, triisodecyl trimellitate, diisostearyl malate, trimellitate tri-ethyl-2-hexyl, 2-octyldodecanol, octyl hydroxystearate, polybutylene with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 800 to 1200, isostearyl lactate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate , castor oil, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, glyceryl triacetate oxyethylenated (7 EO), polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, poly methylfluoroalkyl methylsiloxane of formula (I):

 wherein n is an integer from 5 to 90 and m is an integer from 1 to 150, a is an integer from 0 to 5, Rf is a perfluoroalkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms. <Desc / Clms Page number 23> 20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first non-volatile oil is a poly (methylfluoroalkyl) dimethylsiloxane of formula (I):

 wherein n is an integer from 5 to 90 and m is an integer from 1 to 150, a is an integer from 0 to 5, Rf is a perfluoroalkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 75% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight. 22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second volatile oil has a surface tension less than or equal to 20 mN / m. 23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second volatile oil is chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, C8-C9 isoalkanes, nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoromorpholine, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof. 24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 0.1% to 75% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight. in weight. <Desc / Clms Page number 24> 25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional non-volatile oil different from the first non-volatile oil. 26. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional nonvolatile oil is present in an amount by volume less than or equal to 0.9 x (sebum sebum powder sebum) x (amount by weight of sebum-absorbing powder present in the composition), preferably less than or equal to 0.7 × (sebum powder sebum taking sebum) x (amount by weight of sebum-absorbing powder present in the composition), and preferably lower than equal to 0.5 x (sebum sebum powder sebum) x (amount by weight of sebum-absorbing powder present in the composition). 27. Composition according to claim 25 or 26, characterized in that the first non-volatile oil or the mixture of first non-volatile oils, and the additional nonvolatile oil, or the mixture of additional nonvolatile oils, are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight; weight. 28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of non-volatile oils, the first non-volatile oil or a mixture of first non-volatile oils. 29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional volatile oil different from the second volatile oil. 30. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional volatile oil is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, isoalkanes C11-C13, neopentanoate isodecyl. 31. Composition according to Claim 29 or 30, characterized in that the additional volatile oil is present in a content lower than the total weight of non-volatile oil (s) and volatile oil (s). ) having a surface tension less than or equal to 21 mN / m. 32. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an aqueous phase. <Desc / Clms Page number 25> 33. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60%, by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight. total of the composition. 34. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional powder different from the first and second powders. 35. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional powder is chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, fillers, and mixtures thereof. 36. Composition according to Claim 34 or 35, characterized in that the additional powder is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 98.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 85% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 70% by weight. 37. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic ingredient chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, waxes, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents, and mixtures thereof. 38. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a compact powder, cast powder, loose powder, gel, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a milk, a paste. 39. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 31 and 34 to 38, characterized in that the composition is anhydrous. 40. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation, a blusher, an eyeshadow, a concealer product. , a powder of the face and body, a body make-up product. 41. A cosmetic process for the makeup or non-therapeutic care of keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 42. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 40 to obtain a makeup of the non-glossy and / or homogeneous skin and / or not <Desc / Clms Page number 26>  transfer and / or resistant to friction and / or having a maintenance of the initial color over time. 43. Use of a liquid fatty phase comprising a first non-volatile oil having Hansen solubility parameters #Ld, #Lp, #Lh, expressed in J1 / 2. cm-3/2, such as

 and ## ranges from 2 to 20, or a mixture of such first nonvolatile oils, and a second volatile oil having a surface tension less than or equal to 21 mN / m and an evaporation rate of 0.001 mg / cm 2 / minute at 200 mg / cm 2 / min, in a cosmetic composition comprising a powdery phase containing a sebum-sebum first sebum powder, and a second powder having a critical surface energy of less than or equal to 24 mN / m, for obtaining a non-glossy and / or homogeneous and / or non-transferable and / or abrasion resistant and / or maintaining initial color makeup.