FR2848422A1 - Transparent or translucent care and/or make-up anhydrous cosmetic composition, e.g. cake mascara, comprises liquid fatty phase comprising ester oil(s) structured with polymer(s) containing polyorganosiloxane group(s) - Google Patents

Abstract

Transparent or translucent care and/or make-up anhydrous cosmetic composition, comprises a liquid fatty phase comprising ester oil(s) from esters of monocarboxylic acids with mono- and poly-alcohols, structured with polymer(s) having a weight-average molecular mass of 500-500000, containing group(s) comprising polyorganosiloxane group(s), and at least two groups capable of hydrogen interactions. Transparent or translucent care and/or make-up anhydrous cosmetic composition, optionally capable of giving a transparent or translucent deposit, comprises a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, structured with at least one polymer having a weight-average molecular mass of 500-500000, containing at least one moiety comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1-1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, consisting of ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, and/or biguanidino groups. The polymer is solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at 25-250 degrees C. The liquid fatty phase and the structuring polymer form a medium. Independent claims are also included for: (1) use of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) in a cosmetic composition or its manufacture; and (2) use of continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil in a cosmetic composition or its manufacture.

Description

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TRANSPARENT OR TRANSLUCENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION
CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP,
STRUCTURED BY SILICONE POLYMERS
DESCRIPTION
Technical area
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or make-up of the skin, including the scalp, and / or the lips of human beings, containing a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil, gelled with a particular polymer, said composition being transparent, translucent, and in particular in the form of a cast makeup product, in particular makeup stick such as a lipstick, the application of which leads to a deposit which is also transparent, translucent, not -coloring and without transfer.

 A cosmetic care composition is a composition which comprises at least one active compound for treating wrinkles, for moisturizing skin and lips, for protecting the skin, lips and integuments from ultraviolet rays, for treating acne and / or to act as a self-tanner.

 The invention relates more particularly to cosmetic and dermatological compositions, transparent, translucent, which can be colored, whose deposits are also translucent, transparent, such as makeup products

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 exhibiting properties of non-sticky, and nontransfer.

State of the art
In cosmetic or dermatological products, it is common to find a structured liquid fatty phase, namely gelled and / or stiffened; this is particularly the case in solid compositions, in particular solid cast compositions, balms and lipsticks, eye shadows, anti-ring products and cast foundations. This structuring is obtained using waxes or fillers. Unfortunately, waxes and fillers have the disadvantage of rendering the composition opaque and tend to matify the composition due to the presence of crystals, which is not always desirable, in particular for a lipstick or an eyeshadow. .

 By liquid fatty phase, in the sense of the application, is meant a liquid fatty phase at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, also called oils. , compatible with each other and comprising at least one ester oil.

 By structured liquid fatty phase is meant a stiffened or gelled liquid fatty phase.

 By stiffened liquid fatty phase in the sense of the demand, it is understood that this phase does not flow

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 not under its own weight when you add a silicone polyamide.

 By gelled liquid fatty phase in the sense of the demand, it is meant that the viscosity of this phase is increased due to the addition of silicone polyamide in this fatty phase.

 EP-A-1 068 856 [1] discloses solid wax-free cosmetic compositions comprising a polymer-structured liquid fatty phase, in which the fatty phase is mainly a non-silicone oil.

 The document WO-A-01/97758 [2] describes cosmetic compositions based on polyamide resins comprising a gelling agent chosen from the esters and amides of N-acylamino acids and their mixtures. The composition also comprises a solvent for the polyamide resin which may be chosen from unsaturated and saturated fatty alcohols, fatty and / or aromatic carboxylic acid esters, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated alcohols and acids, silicones and mineral oils. and branched chain hydrocarbons; preferably, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, mineral oils, branched hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof.

 The fatty phases of the cosmetic compositions often use silicone oils.

Indeed, the use of fatty phases based on silicone oils makes it possible today to obtain cosmetic compositions having a long life when the oils are little or not volatile, namely a good behavior especially of the color during the time

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 (Non-bend, no fading), and nontransfer compositions when the silicone oils are volatile, not settling on a support such as a glass, a cup, a fabric or a cigarette, placed in contact with the makeup film.

 Currently, the use of silicone oils in cosmetics is limited by the few molecules that can gel these media and thus lead to compositions in solid form such as lipstick sticks or poured foundations for example.

 The use of cosmetic compositions whose fatty phase is predominantly silicone in most cases leads to problems of compatibility with the ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics.

 In WO-A-97/36573 [3], US-A-5,874,069 [4], US-A-5,919,441 [5], US-A-6,051,216 [6], WO-A -02/17870 [7], and WO-A-02/17871 [8], EP-A-1,177,784 [9], WO-A-99/06473 [13], and US-A-6,353,076 [14] which is a division of US-A-6,051,216, cosmetic compositions such as sticks or deodorant gels, comprising a silicone oil phase gelled with a polysiloxane and polyamide wax, or with a polymer containing siloxane groups and groups capable of hydrogen interactions.

 More particularly, the document WO-A-97 36573 [3] describes the combination of a fluid silicone solvent and thickening agents which are a

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 wax containing silicone groups, and a polyamide which may comprise silicone groups.

 The document US-A-5 874 069 [4] is close to the document WO-A-97 36573 [3], but it requires the obtaining of a solid system by the passage of a clear and translucent system, and it provides details on the nature of the wax and its monomer units, in particular siloxane.

 US-A-5,919,441 [5] discloses a system containing a fluid with at least one silicone and a polymer with siloxane groups and H-linked groups, said polymer being a fluid at room temperature and being soluble in the fluid to obtain a clear and translucent solution.

 US-A-6,051,216 [6] relates to the combination of a silicone polyamide with a fluid silicone and, optionally, a complementary solvent.

 In WO-A-02/17870 [7], it is envisaged to add to the composition another gelling agent but the added quantities must be low, for example less than 0.5% in the case of hydroxystearic acid, to preserve the clarity of the product.

 In WO-A-02/17871 [8], it is also envisaged to use a second gelling agent with the silicone polymer in an amount representing 0.5 to 2% by weight of the composition, and a solvent system comprising an organic compound non-silicone, a volatile silicone and possibly another silicone.

 EP-A-1,177,784 [9] illustrates a deodorant composition comprising a liquid phase

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 for example containing a volatile silicone and optionally a non-volatile silicone and / or a non-silicone hydrophobic organic liquid, structured by an organic compound containing amido groups, optionally with one or more secondary structuring agents, polymeric or non-polymeric, in greater proportions. low. Among the secondary structurants, this document mentions polymers having siloxane groups and hydrogen interaction groups without giving examples or results on a composition using these polymers.

 It should be noted that the documents [7], [8] and [9] relate to deodorants for which the problems of non-stickiness and non-transfer of the composition do not arise as in the case of makeup cosmetics described above.

 It appears from the foregoing that transparency is, in all cases, an extremely delicate property to obtain for a cosmetic composition, in particular a solid cast composition of lipstick, for example stick, and whatever the nature of silicone oils or other component fat phase. Indeed, the transparency or translucency can not be obtained if using waxes for the structuring of the composition because, as noted above, the waxes have the disadvantage of making the composition opaque.

 If one seeks to structure the composition, such as a stick, preferably without using waxes to avoid their opacifying effect, as is the case in the documents

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 FR-A-2,817,740 [10] and FR-A-2,817,739 [11], other problems arise and the achievement of transparency is to the detriment of other essential properties of the composition, such as the non-stickiness which is a property much sought after by the consumer.

 It has not been possible so far to obtain a composition having, on the one hand, the attractive cosmetic appearance, which is represented by the transparency of the deposit and / or the composition and, on the other hand, non-tack and, optionally, non-transfer properties of the deposit formed from said composition.

 There is therefore a need for a cosmetic composition, in particular a solid cast composition, such as a lipstick stick, which is transparent or translucent and which, moreover, gives during its application a non-sticky deposit. There is still a need for a cosmetic composition, in particular a colored composition which is transparent or translucent and which makes it possible to obtain a deposit, in particular colored, transparent, non-sticky, but also not transferring to the contact.

Presentation of the invention
The invention is intended in particular to meet the needs mentioned above.

 In other words, the object of the invention is to provide a care and / or makeup composition for the skin and / or the lips, making it possible to remedy

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 disadvantages and to solve the problems mentioned above, in particular the invention aims to provide a composition that is transparent or translucent and that also allows to obtain a non-sticky deposit and not transfering by contact.

 Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the use of particular polymers, such as silicone polyamides, associated with a specific fatty phase comprising at least one ester-type oil, makes it possible, among other things, to achieve the above goals and to structuring, in the absence of wax, the liquid fatty phases in makeup or care compositions.

 In particular, it has been found that compositions containing this combination of a particular polymer and a specific ester oil are not only transparent, translucent, but also lead to non-sticky films or deposits with non-transfer properties. improved.

 The combination of these particular polymers with one or more ester oils present in the fatty phase makes it possible to obtain gels, in particular solid compositions, transparent or translucent, having a good mechanical strength and allowing a deposit in sufficient quantity, which is not tacky to the touch, does not transfer to the touch, and is itself transparent or translucent.

 The effects achieved by this combination of a particular polymer and a particular ester oil, including the combination of non-transfer, lack of tackiness of the deposit and

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 the transparency or translucency of the composition and the deposit, do not appear in the documents of the prior art.

 The invention applies not only to lip makeup products such as lipsticks, lip pencils, lip glosses, but also to skincare products, including scalp, and lips, such as sunscreen products for the skin, face or lips, or lip balms, for make-up products for the skin, both of the face and of the human body, such as foundations cast in a stick or in cup, anti-ring products and ephemeral tattoo products and eye makeup products such as eyeliners, especially in the form of a pencil, and mascaras including breads for keratin fibers (eyelashes, eyebrows, hair) .

 More specifically, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition, transparent or translucent and / or capable of giving a transparent or translucent deposit, care and / or makeup, comprising: a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil selected from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, structured by at least one structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising:

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 at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., and the liquid fatty phase and the polymer structure forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

 Cosmetic compositions comprising a liquid fatty phase comprising a specific ester oil, which are transparent or translucent, and whose structuring is ensured, in addition, by a specific polymer, for example of silicone polyamide type (PASi), are not described in the prior art.

 Surprisingly, it has been found that the use in the fatty phase of the composition of the invention of a specific oil which is an oil, called an ester, which may be called a short ester, makes it possible to obtain a transparent or translucent composition.

 In addition, the compositions according to the invention give transparent or translucent deposits or films.

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 In other words, the cosmetic compositions of the invention have, on the one hand, the transparency or translucency of the deposit which is obtained from them and, on the other hand, the translucent or translucent appearance. transparent composition before its application, in the pot, in the mass.

 This property of transparency or translucency in the mass means that a layer of the composition of a given thickness, passes part of the visible light. If this part of the visible light is scattered, the composition will be defined as a translucent mass composition, and if, on the contrary, it is not diffused, then the composition will be defined as a bulk transparent composition.

 The transparency or translucency property of the composition according to the invention is determined as follows: the test composition is poured into a Volga 30mL jar, the composition is allowed to cool (for 24 hours at room temperature) and placed below a white sheet on which is traced in black felt a cross about 2mm thick. If the cross is visible to the naked eye in daylight at an observation distance of 40 cm, the composition is transparent or translucent.

 This transparent or translucent appearance is very satisfactory, especially for the consumer, from an aesthetic point of view and can, therefore, be of great commercial interest.

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 The transparent or translucent nature of a cosmetic composition, for example stick, and moreover, the deposit obtained from it, is extremely difficult to predict.

 It is absolutely not possible to know in advance which particular component and in what proportion, will make it possible to obtain transparency or translucency of the composition and, a fortiori, of the deposit.

 The formulation of transparent or translucent cosmetic compositions is therefore completely random and can not be deduced, from existing formulations or properties, for example optical properties, compounds entering these compositions.

 There was no reason to suppose that by choosing the specific short esters out of the considerable number of oils which could be incorporated into the fatty phase of a cosmetic composition, a surprisingly transparent or translucent composition and a deposit would be obtained. of this translucent or transparent composition, given the random and highly unpredictable nature of the transparency and translucency of a composition and a deposit thereof.

 It is surprising that the combination of this specific ester with a specific structuring polymer, for example of the PASi type, leads to a composition which while being transparent or translucent and giving a transparent deposit or

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 translucent, allows to obtain also a deposit which is without transfer to the contact and which does not stick.

 However, it has been found that only the specific esters according to the invention allowed, among all the oils that can be used in the cosmetic compositions, to obtain, surprisingly, with the particular structuring polymers described above, and in the absence or presence of a small amount of waxes, structured systems, such as gels or sticks having transparency / translucency, and non-tacky (non-tacky) and non-transferable formulations in touch with.

 The invention results from the double selection, respectively from a very large number of oils and structuring polymers of a specific oil and a specific polymer whose association leads, surprisingly, to a system which has the combination advantageous properties according to the invention.

 In connection with the above, the transfer resistance of a cosmetic composition can be estimated by a well-established transfer resistance test in this field of the art, such as the application of the masked area on the skin or the lips ( test said kiss). The same goes for the non-stick test (see example 4).

 The transparent or translucent composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, a solid or a more or less viscous cream. It can be a single or multiple emulsion, in particular oil-

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 in-water or water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil, or a rigid or flexible gel with continuous oily phase. The single or multiple emulsion may comprise an aqueous or oily continuous phase optionally containing dispersed lipid vesicles. In particular, it is in cast form in a stick or in a cup and more particularly in the form of an oily rigid gel, in particular anhydrous gel and in particular an anhydrous stick. More specifically, it is in the form of a translucent or transparent rigid gel and, preferably, slightly colored, if the composition contains pigments or dyes, the liquid fatty phase forming the continuous phase. An anhydrous composition will comprise less than 10% by weight of water, for example less than 5% by weight.

 The structuring of the liquid fatty phase is flexible depending on the nature of the structuring polymer and the ester oil used, this structuring can be such that one obtains a rigid structure in the form of a stick or stick, good mechanical strength, transparent or translucent. These sticks when colored allow, after application, to obtain a transparent deposit, translucent, without transfer and not sticky.

 The composition may contain one or more structuring polymers, as defined above, and one or more ester oils.

 Advantageously, the composition of the invention is a composition for the lips and

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 better a composition of lipstick including stick.

Liquid fatty phase
The liquid fatty phase of the composition of the invention comprises one or more oils.

 According to the invention, at least one of these oils is an oil, called ester oil, which is chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols.

Advantageously, said ester corresponds to the following formula (I):
R 1 -CO-O-R2 (I) wherein R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.

 R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.

 By optionally substituted, it is meant that R 1 and R 2 may carry one or more substituents chosen, for example, from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms.

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 selected from 0, N and S, such as amino, amine, alkoxy, hydroxyl.

 Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms of R1 + R2 is? 9.

 The ester, used according to the invention, may be referred to as the short ester.

 R 1 can represent the residue of a fatty acid, preferably higher, linear or, preferably branched, comprising from 1 to 40 and better still from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R 2 can represent a linear or preferably branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to at 40, preferably from 3 to 30 and most preferably from 3 to 20, (19 to 28.8 to 27.7 to 26 C) carbon atoms. Again, preferably, the number of carbon atoms of R 1 + R 2> 9.

 Examples of R 1 groups are those derived from fatty acids selected from the group consisting of acetic, propionic, butyric, caproic, caprylic, pelargonic, capric, undecanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, arachidic, behenic, oleic, linolenic, linoleic, eleostearic, arachidonic, erucic, and mixtures thereof.

 Examples of esters which can be used in the fatty phases of the compositions of the invention are, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate. 2-hexyl, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates

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 alcohols or polyalcohols, for example fatty alcohols.

 Advantageously, the esters are chosen from the compounds of the formula (I) above, in which R 1 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, of preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R2 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and better from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R 1 is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R 2 is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 9 to 15 carbon atoms. 11 carbon atoms. Preferably in the formula (I), R 1 -CO- and R 2 have the same number of carbon atoms and are derived from the same radical, preferably unsubstituted branched alkyl, for example isononyl, that is to say that advantageously the ester oil molecule is symmetrical.

 The ester oil will preferably be chosen from the following compounds: isononyl isononanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, - octyl 2-dodecyl erucate,

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 isostearyl isostearate.

 The most preferred ester is isononyl isononanoate which makes it possible to obtain at best compositions having excellent transparency, translucency combined with excellent properties of non-transfer and absence of tack.

 Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises from 0.5 to 100% by weight of the oil or ester oils, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, better still from 2 to 40% by weight. in weight.

 In these percentages ranges, the surprising effects of the invention, namely essentially the combination of transparency / translucency, non-transfer, non-stickiness, are presented with the greatest amplitude.

 Preferably, the fatty phase comprises 100% by weight of the ester oil (s), that is to say that the fatty phase contains as oils only ester oils, as described above, exclusion of any other oil.

 More preferably, the fatty phase comprises only one ester oil (and not a mixture) which is preferably isononyl isononanoate, this single ester oil being present in the percentages above and preferably at a content of 100% by weight.

 In addition to the ester oil (s), the liquid fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may contain one or more other oils which are not

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 ester oils as defined above.

 Thus, the liquid fatty phase may comprise at least one silicone oil which may be a volatile oil, a non-volatile oil or a mixture of volatile oil (s) and non-volatile oil (s).

 Preferably, the liquid fatty phase, in addition to the essential ester oil according to the invention, comprises at least one volatile silicone oil.

 The volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 C and advantageously greater than the softening temperature of the structuring polymer and / or a viscosity of less than 8 cSt, such as polydimethyl linear or cyclic siloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

 The flash point is the temperature at which a fuel ignites on contact with a flame.

 Examples of such oils include the compounds listed in Table 1 below.

 Advantageously, the volatile oil has a flash point greater than 60 C.

 The nonvolatile silicone oils may be polydimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, dimethicone copolyols, alkylmethicone copolyols, cetyldimethicone, silicones containing alkylglyceryl ether groups, silicones with side amine groups and dilauroyltrimethylol.

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 propane siloxysilicate. The alkyl groups of these oils have in particular from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

 The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the liquid fatty phase of the invention, which contains at least one ester oil, may in particular be non-volatile, linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, fluoro silicones with group (s) during (s) or end of chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms all or part of the hydrogen atoms is substituted by fluorine atoms, dimethiconols and mixtures thereof.

 The liquid fatty phase may comprise, in addition to the essential ester oil according to the invention, at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile non-silicone oil.

 Within the meaning of the invention, a volatile silicone or non-silicone oil has a flash point preferably of 40 to 135 ° C or no flash point. The volatile oils have at a room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a vapor pressure ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mm Hg (2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa) and better still from 0 , 1 to 90 mm

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 Hg (13 Pa at 12,000 Pa). The non-volatile oils then correspond to a vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa).

 The silicone oils have a viscosity preferably chosen in the range of from 5 to 800,000 cSt at 25 ° C, preferably from 10 to 500,000 cSt, and more preferably from 10 to 5,000 cSt.

Table 1

<Tb>
<tb> Compound <SEP> Point <SEP> Flash <SEP> Viscosity
<tb> (C) <SEP> (cSt)
<tb> Octyltrimethicone <SEP> 93 <SEP> 1,2
<tb> Hexyltrimethicone <SEP> 79 <SEP> 1,2
<tb> Decamethyl
<tb> Cyclopentasiloxane <SEP> 72 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> (cyclopentasiloxane
<tb> or <SEP> D5)
<tb> Octamethylcyclo <SEP> 55 <SEP> 2.5
<tb> tetrasiloxane
<tb> (cyclotetradimethyl)
<tb> siloxane <SEP> or <SEP> D4)
<tb> Dodecamethylcyclo <SEP> 93 <SEP> 7
<tb> hexasiloxane <SEP> (D6)
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> Decamethyltetra- <SEP> 63 <SEP> 1,7
<tb> siloxane <SEP> (L4)
<tb> KF <SEP> 96 <SEP> A <SEP> from <SEP> Shin <SEP> Etsu <SEP> 94 <SEP> 6
<tb> PDMS <SEP> (polydimethyl- <SEP> 56 <SEP> 1.5
<tb> siloxane) <SEP> DC <SEP> 200
<tb> (1.5 <SEP> cSt) <SEP> from <SEP> Dow <SEP>
<tb> Corning
<tb> PDMS <SEP> DC <SEP> 200 <SEP> (2 <SEP> cSt) <SEP> 87 <SEP> 2
<tb> of <SEP> Dow <SEP> Corning
<tb> PDMS <SEP> DC <SEP> 200 <SEP> (5 <SEP> cSt) <SEP> 134 <SEP> 5
<tb> of <SEP> Dow <SEP> Corn.ing
<tb> PDMS <SEP> DC <SEP> 200 <SEP> (3 <SEP> cSt) <SEP> 102 <SEP> 3
<tb> of <SEP> Dow <SEP> Corning
<Tb>

In other words, the volatile silicone oil (s) may be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of the compounds of Table 1, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

 The volatile silicone oil may also be chosen from the group of fluorinated silicone oils such as silicones with alkyl groups and

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 perfluoroalkyl, silicones with oxyethylenated / oxypropylene (EO / PP) and perfluorinated side groups, silicones with perfluorinated side groups and glycerolated side groups, and perfluoroalkylmethylphenylsiloxanes, these oils having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 0.02 mm Hg.

 The liquid fatty phase may contain one or more volatile or non-volatile non-silicone oils. The volatile non-silicone oils may be chosen from the group of hydrocarbon oils and volatile esters and ethers such as volatile hydrocarbons such as isododecane and isohexadecane, and C8-C16 isoparaffins.

 The volatile non-silicone oil may also be chosen from fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils.

 By way of example of volatile non-silicone oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of Table 2 which follows.

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Table 2

<Tb>
<tb> Compound <SEP> Point <SEP> Flash
<tb> (C)
<tb> Isododecane <SEP> 43
<tb> Isohexadecane <SEP> 102
<tb> n-butyl ether <SEP> of <SEP> propylene <SEP> 60
<tb> glycol
<tb> 3-ethoxypropionate <SEP> ethyl <SEP> 58
<tb> Acetate <SEP> of <SEP> Methyl Ether <SEP> of <SEP> 46
<tb> propylene <SEP> glycol
<tb> Isopar <SEP> L <SEP> (isoparaffin <SEP> C11-C13) <SEP> 62
<tb> Isopar <SEP> H <SEP> (isoparaffin <SEP> C11-C12) <SEP> 56
<Tb>

The liquid fatty phase advantageously contains at least 1% and better still at least 5%, for example from 10 to 90% by weight of silicone oil (s) which advantageously have a viscosity of less than 1000 cSt and better still less at 100 cSt because the silicone polymers used in the invention are more soluble in silicone oils of low viscosity.

 When the fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, it advantageously represents from 3 to 89.4%, and better still from 5 to 60%, for example from 5 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

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 The liquid fatty phase may also contain other non-silicone oils, for example polar oils such as: hydrocarbon vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, of pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier passionflower, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearines Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and alcohols. C8 to C26 fatty acids such as oleic alcohol or octyldodecanol; fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid; and mixtures thereof.

 The liquid fatty phase may also contain apolar oils such as hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons, linear or branched, of synthetic or mineral origin, volatile or not,

<Desc / Clms Page number 26>

 such as volatile paraffin (such as isoparaffins, isododecane) or non-volatile oils and its derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, the invention can be implemented, for example, with the following different fat phases:
1) a fatty phase consisting solely of a mixture of ester oils;
2) a fatty phase consisting solely of a single ester oil;
3) a fatty phase consisting of a mixture of oils comprising at least one ester oil and at least one volatile silicone oil;
4) a fatty phase consisting of a mixture of oils comprising at least one ester oil and at least one non-silicone volatile oil;
5) a fatty phase consisting of a mixture of oils comprising at least one ester oil, at least one volatile non-silicone oil and optionally a volatile silicone oil;
6) a fatty phase consisting of a mixture of oils comprising at least one ester oil, a non-silicone, non-volatile oil and optionally at least one volatile non-silicone oil; and in cases 3), 4) and 5), the mixture may also comprise a non-volatile non-silicone oil.

<Desc / Clms Page number 27>

 Generally, the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to 95% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 20 to 75%.

 According to the invention, the composition further comprises solid particles selected from fillers and pigments (including pearlescent pigments), and mixtures thereof, in an amount such that the composition remains transparent or translucent.

 By pigments is meant any solid particle insoluble in the composition used to give and / or modify a color and / or an iridescent appearance.

 The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. The inorganic pigments may be chosen, for example, from zinc oxides, iron oxides, titanium oxides and mixtures thereof. Mention may thus be made, among the inorganic pigments, of titanium dioxide or zinc dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments may represent from 0.1 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 15%, if they are present.

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Structured silicone polymer
The structuring polymer (s) of the composition are solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 ° to 250 ° C.

 For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more preferably 10 repeating units.

 In the composition of the invention, the structuring silicone polymer generally represents from 0.5 to 80%, preferably from 2 to 60% and more preferably from 5 to 40% of the total weight of the composition.

 Moreover, the weight ratio polymer structurant / total oil (s) of the composition is preferably from 0.01 to 0.8, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.5, better still from 0.1 to 0.5 .

 The weight ratio of structuring polymer to ester oil is generally from 0.01 to 10, preferably from 0.05 to 5, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.

 The polymers used as structuring agents in the composition of the invention are polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069 [4], US-A-5,919,441 [5], US-A- 6,051,216 [6] and US-A-5,981,680 [12].

<Desc / Clms Page number 29>

According to the invention, the polymers used as structuring agent can belong to the following two families:
1) polyorganosiloxanes having at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or
2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

 The polymers to which the invention applies are solids that can be solubilized beforehand in a solvent with hydrogen interactions, capable of breaking the hydrogen interactions of polymers such as lower alcohols with C 2 to C 8 and in particular ethanol, n -propanol, isopropanol, before being brought into contact with silicone oils according to the invention.

The polymers having two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions in the polymer chain may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 30>

in which :
1) R4, R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, in C 1 to C 40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, - C6-C10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms,
2) the X, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms,
(3) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to Cso group, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups C 3, C 1 -C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 6 alkylamino, or

<Desc / Clms Page number 31>

dans laquelle - T représente un groupe hydrocarboné trivalent ou tétravalent, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, en C3 à C24 éventuellement substitué par une chaîne polyorganosiloxane, et pouvant contenir un ou plusieurs atomes choisis parmi 0, N et S, ou T représente un atome trivalent choisi parmi N, P et Al, et - R8 représente un groupe alkyle en Ci à C50, linéaire ou ramifié, ou une chaîne polyorganosiloxane, pouvant comporter un ou plusieurs groupes ester, amide, uréthane, thiocarbamate, urée, thiourée et/ou sulfonamide qui peut être lié ou non à une autre chaîne du polymère,
5) les G, identiques ou différents, représentent les groupes divalents choisis parmi : 4) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:

in which - T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or or sulfonamide which may or may not be bound to another polymer chain,
5) G, identical or different, represent the divalent groups chosen from:

<Desc / Clms Page number 32>

où R9 représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, en Ci à C20, à condition qu'au moins 50% des R9 du polymère représente un atome d'hydrogène et qu'au moins deux des groupes G du polymère soient un autre groupe que :

where R9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, provided that at least 50% of the R9 of the polymer represents a hydrogen atom and that at least two of the G groups of the polymer are another group than:

6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is a number

<Desc / Clms Page number 33>

 an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.

 According to the invention, 80% of the R4, R5, R6 and R7 of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups.

 According to the invention, Y may represent various divalent groups, optionally additionally having one or two free valences to establish bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from: a) C 1 to C 20, preferably C 1 to C 10, linear alkylene groups, b) branched alkylene groups which may comprise rings and unsaturated C 3 to C 56 unsaturated groups; ) C6-C6 cycloalkylene groups, d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C1-C40 alkyl groups, e) C1-C20 alkylene groups having 1 to 5 amide groups, f) alkylene groups C 1 to C 20, having one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkane, C 1 -C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 6 alkylamines, g) polyorganosiloxane chains of the formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 34>

dans laquelle R4, R5, R6, R7, T et m sont tels que définis ci-dessus, et h) les chaînes polyorganosiloxanes de formule :

in which R4, R5, R6, R7, T and m are as defined above, and h) the polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:

dans laquelle The polyorganosiloxanes of the second family may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (III):

in which

<Desc / Clms Page number 35>

 R4 and R6, which are identical or different, are as defined above for formula (II), R10 represents a group as defined above for R4 and R6, or represents the group of formula -XG-R12 in which X and G are as defined above for the formula (II) and R12 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 50 optionally comprising in its chain a or more than one atom selected from O, S and N, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or phenyl optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, - R 11 represents group of formula -XG-R9 wherein X, G and R12 are as defined above, - ml is an integer from 1 to 998, and - m2 is an integer from 2 to 500.

 According to the invention, the polymer used as a structuring agent may be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical units, in particular units of formula (II) or of formula (III).

 According to the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different units of formula (II), that is to say a polymer in which at least one of R4, R5, R6, R7, X, G, Y, m and n are different in one of the patterns. The copolymer may also be formed of

<Desc / Clms Page number 36>

 several units of formula (III), wherein at least one of R4, R6, R10, R11, ml and m2 is different in at least one of the units.

 It is also possible to use a copolymer comprising at least one unit of formula (II) and at least one unit of formula (III), the units of formula (II) and the units of formula (III) possibly being identical or different from each other. other.

 According to a variant of the invention, it is also possible to use a copolymer further comprising at least one hydrocarbon unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea and urethane groups, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations.

 These copolymers can be block copolymers, block copolymers or graft copolymers.

 According to a first embodiment of the invention, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of formula -C (O) NH- and -HN-C (O) -.

 In this case, the structuring agent may be a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (IV) or (V):

<Desc / Clms Page number 37>

dans lesquelles R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m et n sont tels que définis ci-dessus.

wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m and n are as defined above.

 Such a unit may be obtained: either by a condensation reaction between a silicone with α, β-carboxylic acid and one or more diamines, according to the following reaction scheme:

<Desc / Clms Page number 38>

- soit par réaction de deux molécules d'acide carboxylique a-insaturé avec une diamine selon le schéma réactionnel suivant :

suivie de l'addition d'un siloxane sur les insaturations éthyléniques, selon le schéma suivant :
CH2=CH-X1-CO-NH-Y-NH-CO-X1-CH=CH2

or by reaction of two molecules of α-unsaturated carboxylic acid with a diamine according to the following reaction scheme:

followed by the addition of a siloxane to the ethylenic unsaturations, according to the following scheme:
CH2 = CH-X1-CO-NH-Y-NH-CO-X1-CH = CH2

<Desc / Clms Page number 39>

in which X1- (CH2) 2- corresponds to the X defined above and Y, R4, R5, R6, R7 and m are as defined above, or by reaction of an α-terminated silicone, NH 2 and a diacid of formula HOOC-Y-COOH according to the following reaction scheme:

In these polyamides of formula (IV) or (V), m is preferably in the range of from 1 to 700, preferably from 15 to 500 and more preferably from 10 to 100, and n is in particular in the range of 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and more preferably from 4 to 25,
X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and - Y is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain or which may comprise rings and / or unsaturations having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms.

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In the formulas (IV) and (V), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements:
1) 1 to 5 amide groups, urea, urethane, or carbamate,
2) a C5 or C6 cycloalkyl group, and
3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups.

 In the formulas (IV) and (V), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one member selected from the group consisting of: - a hydroxy group, - a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, - one to three alkyl groups C1 to C40; - phenyl optionally substituted with one to three C1 to C3 alkyl groups; - C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl; and - C1 to C6 aminoalkyl.

où R8 représente une chaîne polyorganosiloxane, et T représente un groupe de formule : In these formulas (IV) and (V), Y can also represent:

where R8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 41>

dans lesquelles a, b et c sont indépendamment des nombres entiers allant de 1 à 10, et R13 est un atome d' hydrogène ou un groupe tel que ceux définis pour R4, R5, R6 et R7.

wherein a, b and c are independently integers from 1 to 10, and R13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R4, R5, R6 and R7.

 In the formulas (IV) and (V), R4, R5, R6 and R7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.

 As seen above, the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (IV) or (V).

Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (IV) or (V) of different lengths, ie a polyamide corresponding to the formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 42>

 wherein X, Y, n, R4 to R7 have the meanings given above, m1 and m2 which are different, are selected from the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 300.

dans laquelle R4 à R7, X, Y, mi, m2, n et p ont les significations données ci-dessus et Y1 est différent de Y mais choisi parmi les groupes définis pour Y. Comme précédemment, les différents motifs peuvent être structurés pour former soit un copolymère bloc, soit un copolymère aléatoire, soit un copolymère alterné. In this formula, the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the units may be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having different Ys. In this case, the copolymer can respond to the formula:

wherein R4 to R7, X, Y, mi, m2, n and p have the meanings given above and Y1 is different from Y but selected from the groups defined for Y. As previously, the different units can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.

 In this first embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent may also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units can be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.

<Desc / Clms Page number 43>

dans laquelle X1 et X2 qui sont identiques ou différents, ont la signification donnée pour X dans la formule (II), n est tel que défini dans la formule (II), Y et T sont tels que définis dans la formule (II), R14 à R21 sont des groupes choisis dans le même groupe que les R4 à R7, ml et m2 sont des nombres situés dans la gamme allant de 1 à 1 000, et p est un nombre entier allant de 2 à 500. In this case, the copolymer may comprise at least one unit of formula:

wherein X1 and X2 which are the same or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (II), n is as defined in formula (II), Y and T are as defined in formula (II), R14 to R21 are groups selected from the same group as R4 to R7, ml and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500.

 In formula (VIII), it is preferred that: p is in the range of 1 to 25, more preferably 1 to 7, - R 14 to R 21 are methyl groups, - T is one of the following formulas:

<Desc / Clms Page number 44>

dans lesquelles R22 est un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe choisi parmi les groupes définis pour R4 à R7, et R23, R24 et R25 sont indépendamment des groupes alkylène, linéaires ou ramifiés, de préférence encore, à la formule :

en particulier avec R23, R24 et R25 représentant -CH2-CH2-, - ml et m2 soient dans la gamme de 15 à 500, et mieux encore de 15 à 45, - X1 et X2 représentent -(CH2)10-, et - Y représente -CH2-.

wherein R22 is a hydrogen atom or a group selected from the groups defined for R4 to R7, and R23, R24 and R25 are independently linear or branched alkylene groups, more preferably, the formula:

especially with R23, R24 and R25 representing -CH2-CH2-, - ml and m2 are in the range of 15 to 500, and more preferably 15 to 45, - X1 and X2 are - (CH2) 10-, and - Y represents -CH2-.

 These silicone-grafted polyamides of formula (VIII) may be copolymerized with polyamide-silicones of formula (III) to form

<Desc / Clms Page number 45>

 block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers. The weight percentage of grafted silicone units (VIII) in the copolymer can range from 0.5 to 30% by weight.

 According to the invention, as seen above, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendant or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.

 According to the invention, the preferred siloxane-based polyamides are: polyamides of formula (IV) where m is from 15 to 50; polyamides of formula (IV) in which m is from 30 to 500; mixtures of two or more polyamides in which at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range of 15 to 50 and at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range of 30 to 50; polymers of formula (VI) with m1 chosen in the range of from 15 to 50 and m.sub.2 chosen in the range from 30 to 500 with the part corresponding to ml representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide and the corresponding part m2 representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide; polyamide mixtures of formula (IV) combining

<Desc / Clms Page number 46>

1) 80 to 99% by weight of a polyamide where n is 2 to 10, in particular 3 to 6, and
2) 1 to 20% of a polyamide wherein n is in the range of 5 to 500, in particular 30 to 100; polyamide mixtures of formula (IV) combining:
1) 1 to 20% by weight of a polyamide, where n is 2 to 10, in particular 3 to 6, and
2) 80 to 99% of a polyamide, where n is in the range of 30 to 500, in particular 30 to 100; polyamides corresponding to formula (VII) wherein at least one of Y and Y1 contains at least one hydroxyl substituent; polyamides of formula (IV) synthesized with at least a portion of an activated diacid (chloride, dianhydride or diester of diacid) instead of diacid; polyamides of formula (IV) in which X represents - (CH 2) 3 or - (CH 2) 10; and polyamides of formula (IV) wherein the polyamides are terminated by a monofunctional chain selected from the group consisting of monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty amines, such as for example, octylamine, octanol, stearic acid and stearyl alcohol.

 According to the invention, the ends of the polymer chains can be terminated by:

<Desc / Clms Page number 47>

 a C 1 to C 50 alkyl ester group by introducing, during synthesis, a C 1 -C 5 monohydric alcohol; a C 1 to C 50 alkyl amide group, while taking a monoacid as a stopper if the silicone is α-diamine; or a monoamine if the silicone is α, β-diacid carboxylic acid.

 According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon-based polyamide, ie a copolymer comprising units of formula (IV) or (V) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units may be disposed at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.

 Polyamide-based structuring agents containing silicones can be produced by silyl amidation of polyamides based on fatty acid dimer. This approach involves the reaction of free acid sites existing on a polyamide as terminal sites, with oligosiloxane-monoamine and / or oligosiloxane-diamines (amidation reaction), or alternatively with oligosiloxane alcohols or oligosiloxane diols (reaction of esterification). The esterification reaction requires the presence of acid catalysts as known in the art. It is desirable that the polyamide having free acid sites, used for the amidation or esterification reaction, have a relatively high number of acid termini (e.g., polyamides having high acid numbers, e.g. 20).

<Desc / Clms Page number 48>

 For amidation of the free acid sites of the hydrocarbon polyamides, diamine siloxanes with 1 to 300, more preferably 2 to 50, and more preferably 2, 6, 9, 5, 12, 13, 5, 23 or 31 siloxane groups, may be used. be used for the reaction with hydrocarbon polyamides based on fatty acid dimers. Diamine siloxanes having 13.5 siloxane groups are preferred and the best results are obtained with siloxane diamine having 13.5 siloxane groups and polyamides containing high indices of carboxylic acid end groups.

 The reactions can be carried out in xylene to extract the water produced from the solution by azeotropic distillation, or at higher temperatures (around 180 to 200 ° C) without solvent.

Typically, amidation efficiency and reaction rates decrease when the siloxane diamine is longer, i.e., when the number of siloxane groups is higher. Free amine sites can be blocked after the initial amidation reaction of diaminosiloxanes by reacting them with either an acidic siloxane or an organic acid such as benzoic acid.

 For the esterification of the free acid sites on the polyamides, this can be carried out in boiling xylene with about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the reactants, of para-toluenesulphonic acid as catalyst.

 These reactions carried out on the terminal carboxylic acid groups of the polyamide lead to

<Desc / Clms Page number 49>

 the incorporation of silicone units only at the ends of the polymer chain.

 A polyamide-silicone copolymer can also be prepared using a free amine polyamide by amidation reaction with an acid group-containing siloxane.

 It is also possible to prepare a structuring agent based on a copolymer between a hydrocarbon polyamide and a silicone polyamide, by transamidation of a polyamide having, for example, an ethylene-diamine constituent, with an oligosiloxane-α,--diamine, at elevated temperature (for example). example 200 to 300 ° C), to carry out a transamidation so that the ethylene diamine component of the original polyamide is replaced by the oligosiloxane diamine.

 The hydrocarbon polyamide-polyamide-silicone copolymer may also be a graft copolymer comprising a hydrocarbon polyamide backbone with pendant oligosiloxane groups.

 This can be obtained for example by: - hydrosilylation of unsaturated bonds in polyamides based on fatty acid dimers, - by silylation of the amide groups of a polyamide, or - by silylation of unsaturated polyamides by means of an oxidation, that is, oxidizing the unsaturated groups to alcohols or diols to form hydroxyl groups which are reacted with siloxane carboxylic acids or siloxane alcohols. It is also possible to epoxidize the olefinic sites of

<Desc / Clms Page number 50>

 unsaturated polyamides and then reacting the epoxy groups with siloxane amines or siloxanesalcohols.

 According to a second embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent consists of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups.

 As before, the polymer may comprise polyorganosiloxane units containing two or more urethane and / or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer, or on side chains or pendant groups.

dans laquelle les R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m et n ont les significations données ci-dessus pour la formule (II), et U représente -0- ou-NH-, afin que :

corresponde à un groupe uréthane ou urée. The polymers comprising at least two urethane and / or urea groups in the backbone may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (IX):

wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (II), and U represents -O- or -NH-, so that:

corresponds to a urethane or urea group.

<Desc / Clms Page number 51>

 In this formula (IX), Y may be a linear or branched C1 to C40 alkylene group optionally substituted with C1 to C15 alkyl or a C5 to C10 aryl group. Preferably, a - (CH 2) 6 - group is used.

 Y may also represent a C 5 to C 12 cycloaliphatic or aromatic group which may be substituted with a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group, for example a radical chosen from the methylene-4-4-biscyclohexyl radical, the radical derived from isophorone diisocyanate, 2,4 and 2,6-tolylenes, 1,5-naphthylene, p-phenylene and 4,4'-biphenylene methane. Generally, it is preferred that Y represents a linear or branched C1 to C40 alkylene radical or a C4 to C12 cycloalkylene radical.

 Y may also represent a polyurethane or polyurea sequence corresponding to the condensation of several diisocyanate molecules with one or more molecules of couplers of the diol or diamine type. In this case, Y comprises several urethane or urea groups in the alkylene chain.

dans laquelle B1 est un groupe choisi parmi les groupes donnés ci-dessus pour Y, U est -0- ou-NH-, et B2 est choisi parmi : He can answer the formula (X):

wherein B1 is a group selected from the groups given above for Y, U is -O- or -NH-, and B2 is selected from:

<Desc / Clms Page number 52>

dans laquelle T est un radical trivalent hydrocarboné pouvant contenir un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes tels que l'oxygène, le soufre et l'azote et R8 est une chaîne polyorganosiloxane ou une chaîne alkyle en Ci à C50, linéaire ou ramifiée. # linear or branched C1 to C40 alkylene groups, # C5 to C12 cycloalkylene groups, optionally bearing alkyl substituents, for example one to three methyl or ethyl groups, or alkylene, for example the radical of diol: cyclohexane dimethanol; the phenylene groups which may optionally carry C1 to C3 alkyl substituents, and the groups of formula:

wherein T is a trivalent hydrocarbon radical which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen and R8 is a polyorganosiloxane chain or a straight or branched C1-C50 alkyl chain.

ou T can represent for example:

or

<Desc / Clms Page number 53>

avec w étant un nombre entier allant de 1 à 10 et R8 étant une chaîne polyorganosiloxane.

with w being an integer from 1 to 10 and R8 being a polyorganosiloxane chain.

When Y is a linear or branched C1-C40 alkylene group, the - (CH2) 2- and - (CH2) 6- groups are preferred,
In the formula given above for Y, d may be an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably from 0 to 3, more preferably equal to 1 or 2.

avec R8 étant une chaîne polyorganosiloxane. Preferably B2 is a linear or branched C1-C40 alkylene group, in particular - (CH2) 2- or - (CH2) 6-, or the group:

with R8 being a polyorganosiloxane chain.

 As previously, the polymer constituting the structuring agent may be formed of silicone urethane and / or silicone-urea units of different lengths and / or constitution, and may be in the form of random or random block or block copolymers.

 According to the invention, the silicone may also comprise urethane and / or urea groups, no longer in the backbone but in lateral branches.

 In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one unit of formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 54>

dans laquelle R4, R5, R6, m1 et m2 ont les significations données ci-dessus pour la formule (II), - U représente 0 ou NH, - R26 représente un groupe alkylène en Ci à C40, comportant éventuellement un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes choisis parmi 0 et N, ou un groupe phénylène, et - R27 est choisi parmi les groupes alkyle en Ci à Cso, linéaires, ramifiés ou cycliques, saturés ou insaturés, et les groupes phényle éventuellement substitués par un à trois groupes alkyles en Ci à C3.

in which R4, R5, R6, m1 and m2 have the meanings given above for formula (II), - U represents 0 or NH, - R26 represents a C1-C40 alkylene group optionally comprising one or more selected heteroatoms from 0 and N, or a phenylene group, and - R27 is selected from linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 10 alkyl groups, and phenyl groups optionally substituted by one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups; .

 The polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (XI) contain siloxane units and urea or urethane groups, and they can be used as structuring agents in the compositions of the invention.

 The siloxane polymers may have a single urea or urethane group by branching or may have two-group urea or

<Desc / Clms Page number 55>

 urethane, or contain a mixture of branching with a urea or urethane group and branching with two groups of urea or urethane.

 They can be obtained from branched polysiloxanes having one or two amino groups by branching, by reacting these polysiloxanes with monoisocyanates.

By way of examples of starting polymers of this type having amino and diamino branches, mention may be made of the polymers corresponding to the following formulas:

In these formulas, the symbol "/" indicates that the segments may be of different lengths and in a random order, and R represents a linear aliphatic group preferably having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and more preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

<Desc / Clms Page number 56>

 Such branched polymers can be formed by reacting a siloxane polymer having at least three amino groups per polymer molecule with a compound having a single monofunctional group (eg, an acid, an isocyanate or isothiocyanate) to react with that group. monofunctional with one of the amino groups and form groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. The amino groups may be on side chains extending from the main chain of the siloxane polymer so that groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are formed on these side chains, or the amino groups may be at the ends of the chain main so that groups capable of hydrogen interaction will be end groups of the polymer.

 As the procedure for forming a polymer containing siloxane units and groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, there may be mentioned the reaction of a siloxane diamine and a diisocyanate in a silicone solvent so as to directly provide a gel. The reaction can be carried out in a silicone fluid, the resulting product being dissolved in the silicone fluid at elevated temperature, the temperature of the system then being reduced to form the gel.

 The preferred polymers for incorporation into the compositions according to the present invention are siloxane-urea copolymers which are linear and which contain urea groups as groups.

<Desc / Clms Page number 57>

 capable of establishing hydrogen interactions in the polymer backbone.

où Ph est un groupe phényle et n est un nombre de 0 à 300, en particulier de 0 à 100, par exemple de 50. As an illustration of a polysiloxane terminated by four urea groups, mention may be made of the polymer of formula:

where Ph is a phenyl group and n is a number from 0 to 300, in particular from 0 to 100, for example 50.

avec l'isocyanate de phényle. This polymer is obtained by reacting the following amino group-containing polysiloxane:

with phenyl isocyanate.

 The polymers of formula (IX) containing urea or urethane groups in the silicone polymer chain may be obtained by reaction

<Desc / Clms Page number 58>

dans laquelle m, R4, R5, R6, R7 et X sont tels que définis pour la formule (II), et un diisocyanate OCN-Y-NCO où Y a la signification donnée dans la formule (II) ; et éventuellement un coupleur diol ou diamine de formule H2N-B2-NH2 ou HO-B2-OH, où B2 est tel que défini dans la formule (X). between a silicone with end groups [alpha], # -NH 2 or -OH, of formula:

wherein m, R4, R5, R6, R7 and X are as defined for formula (II), and an OCN-Y-NCO diisocyanate wherein Y has the meaning given in formula (II); and optionally a diol or diamine coupler of formula H2N-B2-NH2 or HO-B2-OH, where B2 is as defined in formula (X).

 According to the stoichiometric proportions between the two reactants, diisocyanate and coupler, we can have for Y the formula (X) with d equal to 0 where d is equal to 1 to 5.

As in the case of silicone polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), polyurethanes or silicone polyureas having patterns of different length and structure, in particular different length patterns, may be used in the invention. silicone units. In this case, the copolymer can respond, for example, to the formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 59>

 wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y and U are as defined for formula (IX) and mi, m2, n and p are as defined for formula (VI).

It is also possible to obtain branched silicone polyurethanes or polyureas using, in place of the OCN-Y-NCO diisocyanate, a triisocyanate of formula:

Thus, a silicone polyurethane or polyurea having branching having an organosiloxane chain with groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions is obtained. Such a polymer comprises, for example, a unit corresponding to the formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 60>

dans laquelle X1 et X2 qui sont identiques ou différents, ont la signification donnée pour X dans la formule (II), n est tel que défini dans la formule (II), Y et T sont tels que définis dans la formule (II) , R14 à R21 sont des groupes choisis dans le même groupe que les R4à R7, m1 et m2 sont des nombres situés dans la gamme allant de 1 à 1 000, et p est un nombre entier allant de 2 à 500.

wherein X1 and X2 which are the same or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (II), n is as defined in formula (II), Y and T are as defined in formula (II), R14 to R21 are groups selected from the same group as R4 to R7, m1 and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500.

 As in the case of polyamides, this copolymer may also comprise non-branching silicone polyurethane units.

 In this second embodiment of the invention, the preferred polyureas and polyurethanes based on siloxanes are: polymers of formula (IX) where m is from 15 to 50; polymers of formula (IX) in which m is from 30 to 500; mixtures of two or more polymers in which at least one polymer has a

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m value in the range of 15 to 50 and at least one polymer has a value of m in the range of 30 to 50; polymers of formula (XIII) with m1 chosen in the range from 15 to 50 and m.sub.2 chosen in the range from 30 to 500 with the part corresponding to ml representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polymer and the corresponding part m2 representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polymer; polymer mixtures of formula (IX) combining:
1) 80 to 99% by weight of a polymer where n is 2 to 10, in particular 3 to 6, and
2) 1 to 20% of a polymer wherein n is in the range of 30 to 500, especially 30 to 100; polymer mixtures of formula (IX) combining:
1) 1 to 20% by weight of a polymer where n is 2 to 10, especially 3 to 6; and
2) 80 to 99% of a polymer where n is in the range of 30 to 500, in particular 30 to 100; copolymers comprising two units of formula (IX) in which at least one of Y contains at least one hydroxyl substituent; polymers of formula (IX) synthesized with at least a portion of an activated diacid (chloride, dianhydride or diester of diacid) instead of diacid; polymers of formula (IX) in which X represents - (CH 2) 3 or - (CH 2) 10 -; and polymers of formula (IX) in which the polymers are terminated by a monofunctional chain selected from the group consisting of

<Desc / Clms Page number 62>

 monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty amines, such as for example octylamine, octanol, stearic acid and stearyl alcohol.

 As in the case of polyamides, it is possible to use in the invention copolymers of polyurethane or polyurea silicone and polyurethane or polyurea hydrocarbon by carrying out the synthesis reaction of the polymer in the presence of an α, β-functional difunctional block. non-silicone nature, for example a polyester, a polyether or a polyolefin.

 As has been seen previously, the structuring agents consisting of homopolymers or copolymers of the invention may have siloxane units in the main chain of the polymer and groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, or in the main chain of the polymer. or at the ends thereof, or on side chains or branches of the main chain. This can correspond to the following five provisions:

<Desc / Clms Page number 63>

dans lesquelles, la ligne continue est la chaîne principale du polymère siloxane et les carrés représentent les groupes capables d'établir des interactions hydrogène.

wherein the continuous line is the main chain of the siloxane polymer and the squares represent the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions.

 In case (1), groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged at the ends of the main chain. In case (2), two groups capable of establishing interactions

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 hydrogen, are arranged at each end of the main chain.

 In case (3), the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged inside the main chain in repetitive patterns.

 In cases (4) and (5), these are copolymers in which the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged on branches of the main chain of a first series of patterns which are copolymerized with patterns not having groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. The values n, x and y are such that the polymer has the desired properties as a structuring agent for fatty phases based on silicone oil.

 According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase containing at least one ester oil is obtained using one or more of the polymers mentioned above.

 As examples of usable polymers, mention may be made of silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US-5,981,680.

 The structuring polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a softening temperature of 65 ° C. to 190 ° C. They preferably have a softening temperature ranging from 70 ° to 130 ° C. and better still from 80 ° C. to 105 ° C. This softening temperature is lower than that of the others

<Desc / Clms Page number 65>

 known structuring polymers, which facilitates the implementation of the polymers described above, allows the use of volatile oils and limits the deterioration of the liquid fatty phase.

 They have good solubility in silicone oils and ester oils and lead to macroscopically homogeneous compositions. Preferably, they have an average molecular weight of 500 to 200,000, for example 1,000 to 100,000, preferably 2,000 to 30,000.

 The amounts of the ester oil (s) (short esters) and of the structuring polymer (s) can be chosen according to the desired texture or hardness and the desired stability of the compositions. depending on the specific application envisaged. The respective quantities of the (at least one) structuring polymer and the short ester (s) may be such that a disintegrable solid which does not flow under the effect of its own weight is obtained .

 According to the invention, the composition preferably has a hardness ranging from 20 to 2000 g, and more preferably from 20 to 900 g, especially from 20 to 600 g and for example from 150 to 450 g. This hardness can be measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into said composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-TXT2i from Rheo) equipped with a 25 mm ebonite cylinder high and 8 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is made at 20 C in the center of five samples of said composition. The cylinder is introduced into each sample of

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 composition at a pre-speed of 2 mm / s then at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and finally at a post-speed of 2 mm / s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak. The measurement error is + 50 gf.

 Hardness can also be measured by the so-called butter cutter method, which consists in cutting a 12.7 mm diameter lipstick and measuring the hardness at 20 C, using a DFGHS dynamometer. 2 of the company Indelco-Chatillon moving at a speed of 100 mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in gramforce) needed to cut a stick under these conditions. According to this method, the hardness of a stick composition according to the invention ranges from 30 to 300 g, preferably from 30 to 250 g, and for example from 30 to 200 g, better still from 30 to 180 g, when the diameter of the stick is equal to 12.7 mm.

 The hardness of the composition according to the invention is such that the composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and the lips. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention is resistant to shocks.

 According to the invention, the composition in the form of a stick has the behavior of a deformable and flexible elastic solid, giving the application a remarkable elastic softness.

 The respective levels of ester oil and silicone polymer are chosen according to the desired gel hardness and according to the particular application.

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 considered. The respective quantities of polymer and ester oil must be such that they make it possible to obtain a self-supporting composition, for example in the form of a disintegrable stick. In practice, the amount of polymer (active material) represents from 0.5 to 80% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 5 to 40%.

 Generally, the silicone polymer / ester oil mass ratio is in the range from 0.01 to 0.8, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5.

 The structuring silicone polymer preferably represents 5 to 30% by weight of the composition, more preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 1 to 30% by weight.

Other additives
The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any ingredient usually used in the field concerned.

 Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged.

 The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dermatological composition or transparent or translucent care, possibly tinted, keratin materials such as

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 the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, in the form of a sunscreen composition, makeup remover in the form of a stick or in cast form. It can in particular be used as a basis for care for the skin, integuments or lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind, skin care cream, nails or hair).

 The composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a transparent or translucent rigid gel, in particular in the form of a transparent anhydrous stick.

 The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a transparent or translucent colored product for making up the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treatment properties, a blush cheeks or eyelids, an anti-ring product, an eyeliner, a body make-up product; lip makeup such as lipstick, lip gloss or pencil, possibly with care or treatment properties; make-up of integuments such as nails, eyelashes, especially in the form of bread mascara, eyebrows and hair, especially in the form of a pencil.

 Of course, the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely to contain a physiologically acceptable medium that is non-toxic and may be applied to the skin, superficial body growths or lips.

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 of human beings. By cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch.

 According to the invention, the composition may further contain a dyestuff which may be selected from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, and mixtures thereof.

 The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

It can be manufactured by the process of heating the polymer to at least its softening temperature, adding thereto (s) and then mixing everything until a clear solution is obtained. Coloring materials and / or solid particles and additives are then added with stirring. The homogeneous mixture obtained can then be poured into a suitable mold such as a lipstick mold or directly into the packaging articles (housing or cup in particular).

 The subject of the invention is also a structured solid composition for making up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, containing at least one pigment or dye in an amount sufficient to make up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments and a phase liquid continuous fat comprising at least one ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, structured with at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular weight

<Desc / Clms Page number 70>

 ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one pattern comprising.

 at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase being constituted partially or totally oil (s) ester (s), and the pigment, the liquid fatty phase and the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

 This makeup composition is preferably self-supporting.

 The composition of the invention may be in the form of mascara bread, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blush, makeup remover, body makeup product, eye shadow or cheeks, anti-ring product.

 The subject of the invention is also a transparent or translucent makeup stick for the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, and in particular the lips, containing at least one pigment in an amount sufficient to make up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, and a continuous liquid fatty phase

<Desc / Clms Page number 71>

 comprising an ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, structured by at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organoloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate and thiocarbamate groups, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase being constituted partially or totally of oil (s) ester (s) and the pigment, the fat phase and the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

 The invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care, makeup or treatment of keratinous substances of human beings, comprising the application to keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

 The invention further relates to the use of a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising:

<Desc / Clms Page number 72>

 at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C, in a cosmetic composition or in the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition containing a liquid continuous liquid phase comprising an ester oil chosen from the esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of oil (s) having an equal flash point or greater than 40 C to structure said composition in the form of a transparent self-supporting solid and / o u translucent hardness ranging from 20 to 2000 gf and preferably from 20 to 900 gf and preferably from 20 to 600 gf.

 The subject of the invention is also the use of a continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, essentially structured by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of molecular weight

<Desc / Clms Page number 73>

 weight average of from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of volatile oil (s) having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 ° C., in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable, transparent or translucent composition and / or without transfer and / or non-tacky.

 The subject of the invention is also the use of a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight average molecular weight of 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one group; polyorganosiloxane, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate and thiocarbamate groups,

<Desc / Clms Page number 74>

 urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition containing a liquid continuous liquid phase comprising an ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, for structuring said composition in the form of a transparent or translucent self-supporting solid.

 The invention also relates to the use of a continuous liquid fatty phase, comprising at least one ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, essentially structured by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight average molecular weight of from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in a chain of the unit or in the form of a graft; and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof,

<Desc / Clms Page number 75>

 the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of volatile oil (s) having an equal or greater flash point; at 40 C in a cosmetic composition, transparent or translucent, or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition transparent or translucent, as agent improving the non-transfer of the composition and / or decreasing the tackiness of the composition.

 The invention also relates to the use of at least one ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, in the continuous liquid fatty phase of a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable, said fatty phase being essentially structured by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in a chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and - at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane and thiourea groups. , oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof,

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 the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., in order to confer transparency or translucency properties on said composition and / or on depositing said composition on keratin materials.

 According to an advantageous characteristic of these uses, the composition has a hardness of from 20 to 2000 g, preferably from 20 to 900 g and better still from 20 to 600 g.

 The invention finally relates to a cosmetic process for reducing the transfer and / or the tackiness of a transparent or translucent cosmetic composition containing a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols comprising structuring said fatty phase with a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, constituted by from 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane and thiourea groups, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof,

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 the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase being partially or totally composed of oil (s) ester (s).

 The invention will now be described with reference to the following examples, given by way of illustration and not limitation.

Example 1
In this example, the structuring of various oils is studied, among which are the ester or short ester oils, used according to the invention, by a silicone polyamide PASi with a degree of polymerization (DP15) such as than that of Example 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680.

 The structuration is studied for two concentrations of silicone polyamide of 10 and 25%.

 The procedure consists of heating a mixture of x% (with x = 10 or 25) of silicone polyamide and the oil to be studied in a pellet at a temperature of 100 ° C. to 105 ° C. or 110 ° C. to cast the mixture. Melted in a 30 mL Volga pot, and observe, after cold return, the appearance of the cast system.

 The characteristics of the compositions studied and the observations made are collated in the following Table I:

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Table I

<Tb>
<tb> Concentration <SEP> in <SEP> PASi
<tb> Oil <SEP> 10 <SEP> 0-. <SEP> 25 <SEP>%
<tb> Parleam <SEP> Liquid <SEP> Disorder <SEP> System
<tb> Phase out <SEP> trouble
<tb> Octyldodecanol <SEP> Gel <SEP> translucent <SEP> Stick <SEP> opaque
<tb> Silicone <SEP> Liquid <SEP> opaque <SEP> Stick <SEP> opaque
<tb> Phenylated
<tb> Isononyl <SEP> Gel <SEP> transparent / <SEP> Stick <SEP> transparent
<tb> Isonanoate <SEP> translucent <SEP> colorless
<tb> Diisostearyl <SEP> Gel <SEP> soft <SEP> disorder <SEP> Stick <SEP> opaque
<tb> Malate
<tb> Isododecane <SEP> Liquid <SEP> Gel <SEP> disorder,
<tb> Slightly <SEP> or even <SEP> opaque
<tb> trouble
<tb> no <SEP> homogeneous
<tb> Cyclopentasiloxane <SEP> Gel <SEP> opaque <SEP> Gel <SEP> hard <SEP> opaque
<tb> Tridecyl <SEP> Gel <SEP> opaque <SEP> Gel <SEP> opaque
<tb> trimellitate
<tb> Caprylic / <SEP> Liquid <SEP> opaque <SEP> Gel <SEP> opaque
<tb> capric
<tb> triglyceride
<Tb>

For the two concentrations used, it is observed that the silicone polyamides lead, after introduction into the various oils and heating, to a structuring of most oils, that is to say to the formation in them of gels or solid cast, like sticks.

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The observations made and recorded in Table 1 clearly demonstrate that among all the oils tested, only the isononyl isononanoate, which is an ester oil (short ester), according to the invention, makes it possible not only to obtain structured systems, in the form of gels or sticks, but also systems having transparency or translucency as defined according to the present invention, and for the different concentrations of silicone polyamide studied.

Example 2
In this example, the structuring of the isononyl isononanoate, which is an ester oil in accordance with the invention, is studied using a silicone polyamide analogous to that of Example 1, but whose degree of polymerization is higher, namely 30, 45, 75 or 100.

 The procedure used is the same as that of Example 1, that is to say that polymers of varying degrees of polymerization are mixed at concentrations of 10% to 25% and isononyl isononanoate, they are heated and poured into a pot and we observe the appearance of the cast system after cold return.

 The characteristics of the systems studied and the observations made are collated in the following Table II:

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Table II

<Tb>
<tb> 10 <SEP>% <SEP> 25 <SEP>%
<tb> DP15 <SEP> Gel <SEP> transparent / <SEP> Stick
<tb> Translucent <SEP> transparent /
<tb> Colorless <SEP> Translucent
<tb> Colorless
<tb> DP30 <SEP> Gel <SEP> transparent <SEP> Stick
<tb> Colorless <SEP> transparent /
<tb> Translucent
<tb> Colorless
<tb> DP45 <SEP> Gel <SEP> transparent <SEP> Stick
<tb> Colorless <SEP> transparent /
<tb> Translucent
<tb> Colorless
<tb> DP75 <SEP> Gel <SEP> transparent <SEP> Stick
<tb> Colorless <SEP> transparent /
<tb> Translucent
<tb> Colorless
<tb> DP100 <SEP> Gel <SEP> transparent <SEP> Gel <SEP> hard
<tb> colorless <SEP> transparent /
<tb> Translucent
<tb> Colorless
<Tb>

Table II shows that the structuring character and transparency or translucency (as defined according to the present invention) are not lost when using a structured polyamide of higher degree of polymerization.

 The above examples demonstrate that the use according to the invention of an oil

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 of the isononyl isononanoate type makes it possible to obtain structured systems based on silicone polyamides of variable degree of polymerization, alone or in mixtures, which have a translucent or transparent appearance.

Example 3
In this example, a very simple formula is prepared, which leads to a transparent solid system which can be presented in a pot or even in a stick, and which can be colored with dyes, pearlescent agents, glitter or pigments.

The composition is prepared from the constituents below, following the procedure of Example 1: silicone polyamide DP15 20% - isononyl isononanoate qsq 100
The cast composition obtained in the form of a stick, without a coloring agent, is transparent within the meaning of the present invention and colorless.

Example 4
In this example, in order to demonstrate the non-sticky nature and not transferring to contact with the formulation according to the invention of Example 3, a stick is produced according to the invention of identical composition, but by introducing the color of concentrated way, which masks the transparency, but makes it possible to highlight the transfer to the possible pressure.

<Desc / Clms Page number 82>

The composition is prepared from the constituents below, according to the procedure of Example 1: silicone polyamide of DP15 20 - isononyl isononanoate qsq 100 - pigment 8.66%
The applied composition, for example, on the hand is non-tacky. When touching the deposit with the finger, for example, by exerting pressure, it does not remove color by contact, that is to say that there is no color transferred on the finger a time the contact finished.

 This example demonstrates that for a slightly colored composition, with dyes, for example, it is possible, thanks to the invention, to obtain the transparency at the same time as the non-sticky and the absence of transfer to the contact.

<Desc / Clms Page number 83>

 REFERENCES [1] EP-A-1 068 856 [2] WO-A-01/97758 [3] WO-A-97 36573 [4] US-A-5 874 069 [5] US-A-5,919,441 [6] US-A-6,051,216 [7] WO-A-02/17870 [8] WO-A-02/17871 [9] EP-A-1,177,784 [10] FR-A-2,817,740 [11] FR-A-2,817,739 [12] US-A-5,981,680 [13] WO-A-99/06473 [14] US-A-6,353,076.

Claims (54)

1. Transparent or translucent cosmetic composition and / or capable of giving a transparent or translucent deposit, care and / or makeup, comprising: a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, structured by at least one structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the motif or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups and combinations thereof the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., and the liquid fatty phase and the structuring polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.  2. transparent or translucent composition according to claim 1, wherein said ester has the following formula (I): <Desc / Clms Page number 85> R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted. R1-CO-O-R2 (I) wherein R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted;  3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein in the formula (I), R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid, preferably higher, linear or preferably branched, comprising from 1 to 40 and better still from 7 to 19 carbon atoms. carbon and R2 represents a linear or preferably branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40, preferably from 3 to 30, and better still from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.  4. A composition according to claim 3, wherein in the formula (I), R 1 is a group derived from a fatty acid selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecanoic acid, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, arachidic, behenic, oleic, linolenic, linoleic, eleostearic, arachidonic, erucic, and mixtures thereof. <Desc / Clms Page number 86>  5. Composition according to claim 2, wherein in the formula (I), R1 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 at 19 carbon atoms; and R2 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 and more preferably of 3 to 20 carbon atoms.  6. A composition according to claim 5, wherein in the formula (I), R1 is a branched, unsubstituted alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and R2 is a group unsubstituted branched alkyl of 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 9 to 11 carbon atoms.  7. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6, wherein in the formula (I), R1-CO- and R2 have the same number of carbon atoms and are derived from the same radical.  8. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 7, wherein in formula (I) the total number of carbon atoms of the groups R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 9.  9. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 8, wherein the ester oil is chosen from the following compounds: - isononyl isononanoate, - cetostearyl octanoate, <Desc / Clms Page number 87>  isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-dodecyl octyl stearate, 2-dodecyl octyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate.  10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises from 0.5 to 100% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80%, more preferably from 2 to 50% and better still from 2 to 40%. % of the ester oil (s).  11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the fatty phase contains, as oils, only ester oils to the exclusion of any other oil.  12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the fatty phase contains only one ester oil which is preferably isononyl isononanoate, preferably at a content of 100% by weight. .  13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and 12, wherein the liquid fatty phase further comprises at least one silicone oil.  14. The composition of claim 13, wherein the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile silicone oil.  15. Composition according to claim 14, wherein the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile non-silicone oil. <Desc / Clms Page number 88>  16. The composition of claim 14 or 15, wherein the volatile silicone oil has a flash point equal to or greater than 40 C and advantageously greater than the softening temperature of the structuring polymer.  17. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 16, wherein the volatile silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of the following compounds: octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane D5, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane D4 dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane D6, heptamethyl octyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane of 1.5 cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 2 cSt, polymethylsiloxane of 3 cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 5 cSt, and mixtures thereof.  18. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 17, wherein the volatile oil has a flash point of 40 to 135 C.  19. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 18, wherein the liquid fatty phase further comprises a non-volatile silicone oil.  20. Composition according to any one of claims 13 to 19, wherein the liquid fatty phase contains at least 1% and more preferably at least 5% by weight, for example from 10 to 90% by weight of oil (s). silicone (s).  21. The composition according to any one of claims 14 to 20, wherein the volatile oil <Desc / Clms Page number 89>  represents from 3 to 89.4%, preferably from 5 to 60%, for example from 5 to 10%, of the total weight of the composition.  22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising solid particles selected from fillers, pearlescent or nacreous pigments, and mixtures thereof, in an amount such that the composition remains transparent or translucent.  23. The composition of claim 22, wherein the particles are pigments selected from zinc oxides, iron oxides, titanium oxides and mixtures thereof.  24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the structuring polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the formula:

 in which : 1) R4, R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, Ci to C40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more carbon atoms; oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and <Desc / Clms Page number 90>  in which

4) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: (3) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50 group, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 6 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups C 3, C 1 -C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 6 alkylamino, or 2) the X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms,  which may be partially or completely substituted by fluorine atoms, - C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains which may or may not contain one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur and / or nitrogen, <Desc / Clms Page number 91>

5) G, identical or different, represent the divalent groups chosen from:  T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom; chosen from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups; which may or may not be linked to another polymer chain, <Desc / Clms Page number 92>

 where R9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, provided that at least 50% of the R9 of the polymer represents a hydrogen atom and that at least two of the G groups of the polymer are another group than:

6) n is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.  25. A composition according to claim 24, in which Y represents a group chosen from: a) C1-C20, preferably C1-C10, linear alkylene groups; b) branched alkylene groups that may comprise non-conjugated rings and unsaturations. C30 to C56; c) C6-C6 cycloalkylene groups; d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C1-C40 alkyl groups; <Desc / Clms Page number 93>  wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, T and m are as defined above in claim 24.

 e) C 1 -C 20 alkylene groups having 1 to 5 amide groups; f) C 1 -C 20 alkylene groups having one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkane, C 1 -C 8 hydroxyalkyl groups; C3 and C1-C6 alkylamines, and g) the polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:  26. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the structuring polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to formula (III):

 in which <Desc / Clms Page number 94>  R4 and R6, which are identical or different, are as defined above for formula (II) in claim 24, R10 represents a group as defined above for R4 and R6, or represents the group of formula - XG-R12 wherein X and G are as defined above for the formula (II) in claim 24, and R12 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, in C 1 to C 50 optionally having in its chain one or more atoms selected from O, S and N, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups C1 to C4, - R11 represents the group of formula -XG-R12 wherein X, G and R12 are as defined above, - m1 is an integer ranging from 1 to 998, and - m2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.  27. The composition of claim 24, wherein the polymer comprises at least one unit of formula (IV) or (V):

<Desc / Clms Page number 95>  wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m and n are as defined in claim 24.

 28. Composition according to any one of claims 24 and 27, wherein X and / or Y represent an alkylene group containing in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements: 1) 1 to 5 amide groups, urea, urethane, or carbamate, 2) a C5 or C6 cycloalkyl group, and 3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C1-C3 alkyl groups, and / or substituted by at least one element selected from the group consisting of: - a hydroxy group, - a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group one to three C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups, a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, a C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl group, and a C 1 to C 6 aminoalkyl group.  29. Composition according to any one of claims 24 to 27, in which Y represents: <Desc / Clms Page number 96>  wherein a, b and c are independently integers from 1 to 10, and R13 is a hydrogen atom or a group as defined for R4, R5, R6 and R7 in claim 24.

 where R8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula:

 30. Composition according to any one of claims 24 to 27, wherein R4, R5, R6 and R7 represent, independently, a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 group. or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.  31. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the structuring polymer comprises at least one unit of formula: <Desc / Clms Page number 97>  wherein X1 and X2 which are the same or different have the meaning given for X in claim 24, n, Y and T are as defined in claim 24, R14 to R21 are groups selected from the same group as R4 at R7 of claim 24, m1 and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500.

 32. The composition according to claim 31, wherein: p is in the range of 1 to 25, more preferably 1 to 7, - R 14 to R 21 are methyl groups, - T corresponds to one of the following formulas: <Desc / Clms Page number 98>  especially with R23, R24 and R25 representing -CH2-CH2-, - ml and m2 are in the range of 15 to 500, and more preferably 15 to 45, - X1 and X2 are - (CH2) 10-, and - Y represents -CH2-.

 wherein R22 is a hydrogen atom or a group selected from the groups defined for R4 to R7, and R23, R24 and R25 are independently linear or branched alkylene groups, more preferably, the formula:

 33. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the polymer <Desc / Clms Page number 99> Y represents a polyurethane or polyurea sequence corresponding to the condensation of several molecules of diisocyanate with one or more molecules of couplers of the diol or diamine type, corresponding to the formula: Y represents a C 5 to C 12 cycloaliphatic or aromatic group which may be substituted with a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group, for example a radical chosen from the methylene-4-4-biscyclohexyl radical, the derived radical; isophorone diisocyanate, 2,4 and 2,6-tolylenes, 1,5-naphthylene, p-phenylene and 4,4'-biphenylene methane, or Y represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 40 alkylene radical; , or a C4-C12 cycloalkylene radical, or  wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (II) in claim 19, and U represents -O- or -NH-, or

 structuring element comprises at least one pattern corresponding to the following formula: <Desc / Clms Page number 100>  wherein T is a trivalent hydrocarbon radical which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen and R8 is a polyorganosiloxane chain or a straight or branched C1-C50 alkyl chain.

Linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene groups; C 5 to C 12 cycloalkylene groups, optionally bearing alkyl substituents, for example one to three methyl or ethyl groups, or alkylene, for example the radical of diol: cyclohexane dimethanol; the phenylene groups which may optionally carry C1-C3 alkyl substituents, and # the groups of formula:  wherein B1 is a group selected from the groups given above for Y, U is -O- or -NH-, and B2 is selected from:

<Desc / Clms Page number 101>  34. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the structuring polymer comprises at least one unit of formula:

 in which R4, R5, R6, m1 and m2 have the meanings given for formula (II) in claim 24, - U represents 0 or NH, - R26 represents a C1-C40 alkylene group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from 0 and N, or a phenylene group, and - R27 is chosen from linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 50 alkyl groups, and phenyl groups optionally substituted by one to three C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups. C3.  35. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the structuring polymer comprises at least one unit of formula: <Desc / Clms Page number 102>  wherein X1 and X2 which are the same or different have the meaning given for X in claim 24, n, Y and T are as defined in claim 24, R14 to R21 are groups selected from the same group as R4 at R7 of claim 24, m1 and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500.

 36. Composition according to any one of claims 24 to 35, wherein the structuring polymer further comprises at least one hydrocarbon unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate groups. urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof.  37. The composition of claim 36, wherein the copolymer is a block copolymer, a block copolymer or a graft copolymer. <Desc / Clms Page number 103>  38. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the structuring polymer represents from 0.5 to 80% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 60% and better still from 5 to 40% of the total weight of the composition. the composition.  39. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid fatty phase additionally contains a non-silicone oil.  40. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to 95% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 20 to 75% of the total weight of the composition.  41. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a dyestuff.  42. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a transparent or translucent rigid gel, and in particular of a transparent anhydrous stick.  43. Transparent or translucent solid structured makeup composition of the skin, lips and / or integuments, containing at least one pigment in sufficient quantity to make up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments and a continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least less an ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, structured by at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of mass <Desc / Clms Page number 104>  weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the motif chain or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of to establish hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase being partially or totally composed of oil (s), and the pigment, the liquid fatty phase, and the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.  44. Composition according to claim 38, characterized in that it is self-supporting.  45. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 44, characterized in that it is in the form of bread mascara, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blush, cleansing product. , body make-up product, eyeshadow or cheek, anti-ring product.  46. Transparent or translucent makeup stick of the skin, lips and / or integuments, and in particular the lips, containing at least one pigment in sufficient quantity to make up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, and a phase oily <Desc / Clms Page number 105>  liquid continuous composition comprising an ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, structured by at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organoloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase being constituted partially or totally of oil (s) esters (????) and the pigment, the fatty phase and the polymer forming a medium physiologically acceptable.  47. A cosmetic process for the care, make-up or treatment of keratin materials of human beings, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims.  48. Use of a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight average molecular weight of from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: <Desc / Clms Page number 106>  at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C, in a cosmetic composition or in the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition containing a liquid continuous liquid phase comprising an ester oil chosen from the esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of oil (s) having an equal flash point or greater than 40 C to structure said composition in the form of a transparent self-supporting solid and / o u translucent hardness ranging from 20 to 2000gf and preferably from 20 to 900gf and preferably from 20 to 600 gf.  49. Use of a continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, essentially structured by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of average molecular mass by weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: <Desc / Clms Page number 107>  at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase being partially constituted or totally volatile oil (s) having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 C in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, transparent or translucent and / or without transfer and / or nonsticky.  50. Use of a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight average molecular weight of 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido and guanidino groups, biguanidino and their combinations, <Desc / Clms Page number 108>  the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing a continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil ester chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, for structuring said composition in the form of a transparent or translucent self-supporting solid.  51. Use of a continuous liquid fatty phase, comprising at least one ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, essentially structured by a sufficient amount of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of molecular mass weight average of from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in a chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 C, <Desc / Clms Page number 109>  the liquid fatty phase consisting partially or totally of volatile oil (s) having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 ° C in a transparent or translucent cosmetic composition, or for the manufacture of a transparent physiologically acceptable composition or translucent, as an agent improving the non-transfer of the composition and / or decreasing the tackiness of the composition.  52. Use of at least one ester oil chosen from the esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, in the continuous liquid fatty phase of a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, said fatty phase being structured essentially by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units; in a chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 C, to impart transparency or translucency properties to said <Desc / Clms Page number 110>  composition and / or a deposit of said composition on keratin materials.  53. The use according to any one of claims 48 to 51, wherein the composition has a hardness of 20 to 2000 gf, preferably 20 to 900 gf and more preferably 20 to 600 gf.  54. A cosmetic process for reducing the transfer and / or stickiness of a transparent or translucent cosmetic composition containing a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester oil chosen from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols, consisting of a) structuring said fatty phase by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido and guanidino groups, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase being partially or totally composed of oil (s) esters.