FR2846242A1 - Cosmetic use of Gingko biloba extract in composition for bleaching skin or hair, as inhibitor of melanogenesis induced by UV-A or -B light or as agent for removing pigmented spots from skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of a Gingko biloba extract (A) is claimed in a composition for bleaching the skin or hair (on body or head), as an inhibitor of melanogenesis induced by UV-A or -B light or as an agent for removing pigmented spots from the skin.

Description

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The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba, as a whitening agent, as well as to the use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba for the manufacture of a preparation. dermatological intended to depigment the skin t / or the hairs and / or the hair.

The color of human skin is a function of various factors, including the seasons of the year, race and sex, and is mainly determined by the nature and concentration of melanin produced by the melanocytes. In addition, at different periods of their life, some people see appearing on the skin and more especially on the hands, darker and / or more colored spots, giving the skin a heterogeneity. These spots are also due to a high concentration of melanin in the keratinocytes located on the surface of the skin.

In the same way, the color of the hairs and the hair is due to the melanin, when the hairs or the hair are dark, some people wish to see their lighter. This is particularly interesting for hairs which are less visible when they are light than when they are dark.

The mechanism of formation of the pigmentation of the skin, of the hairs and of the hair, that is to say of the formation of melanin, is particularly complex and schematically involves the following main stages: Tyrosine ---> Dopa --- > Dopaquinone ---> Dopachrome ---> Melanin Tyrosinase (monophenol dihydroxyl phenylalanine: oxygen oxidoreductase EC 1.14.18.1) is the essential enzyme involved in this series of reactions. It catalyzes in particular the reaction of transformation of tyrosine into Dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine) thanks to its hydroxylase activity and the reaction of transformation of Dopa into dopaquinone thanks to its oxidase activity. This tyrosinase only acts when it is in the maturation state under the action of certain biological factors.

A substance is recognized as depigmenting if it acts directly on the vitality of the epidermal melanocytes where melanogenesis takes place and / or if it interferes with one of the stages of melanin biosynthesis either by inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis or by s intercalating as a structural analogue of a chemical compound

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 of the melanin synthesis chain, which chain can then be blocked and thus ensure depigmentation.

The substances most used as depigmentants are more particularly hydroquinone and its derivatives, in particular its ethers such as the monomethyl ether and the monoethyl ether of hydroquinone. These compounds, although they have a certain effectiveness, are unfortunately not free from side effects due to their toxicity, which can make their use delicate, even dangerous. This toxicity comes from the fact that they intervene on the fundamental mechanisms of melanogenesis by killing cells which then risk disturbing their biological environment and which consequently oblige the skin to evacuate them by producing toxins.

Thus, hydroquinone is a particularly irritating and cytotoxic compound for the melanocyte, the replacement of which, total or partial, has been considered by many authors.

 We have thus sought substances which do not intervene in the mechanism of melanogenesis but which act upstream on tyrosinase by preventing its activation and are therefore much less toxic.

 The use of harmless topical depigmenting substances with good efficacy is particularly sought in order to treat regional hyperpigmentations by melanocytic hyperactivity such as idiopathic melasmas, occurring during pregnancy ("pregnancy mask" or chloasma) or estrogen-progestogen contraception, localized hyperpigmentations by hyperactivity and benign melanocytic proliferation, such as senile pigment spots called actinic lentigo, hyperpigmentations or accidental depigmentations, possibly due to photosensitization or post-lesional scarring, as well as certain leukoderma, such than vitiligo. For the latter (scarring which can lead to a scar giving the skin a whiter appearance and leukoderma), failing to be able to repigment the damaged skin, we finish depigmenting the areas of residual normal skin to give the whole of the skin a homogeneous white shade.

 The present invention therefore aims to provide whitening agents for human skin, hair and / or hair not having the drawbacks of the known compounds, that is to say which are non-irritant, non-toxic and / or non-allergenic to the skin.

 Surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that an extract of Ginkgo biloba has the property of inhibiting melanogenesis via the inhibition of tyrosinase activity.

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Extracts of Ginkgo biloba are known in the prior art as promoting vasodilation, or improving the barrier function of the skin (FR-0114034). However, to the knowledge of the applicant, it has never been described that an extract of Ginkgo biloba has the property of being an inhibitor of melanogenesis.

The object of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba, in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as a whitening agent for the skin and / or hair and / or hair.

The object of the present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba, in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent inhibiting melanogenesis induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation.

 The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba, in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent for eliminating pigmentary spots on the surface of the skin.

 Another object of the present invention relates to the use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba for the manufacture of a dermatological composition, containing a physiologically acceptable medium, intended for depigmenting the skin and / or the hairs and / or the hair. and / or to treat hypermelanosis-like disorders.

 By physiologically acceptable medium is meant a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, nails, hair.

 Ginkgo biloba is a plant species belonging to the genus Ginkgo which itself belongs to the family of Ginkgoaceae.

 Of course, the extract can be prepared from at least any one of the numerous varieties associated with each of the plant species belonging to the genus Ginkgo. It is therefore understood that in the text the term Ginkgo biloba must be understood as designating any one of the numerous plant varieties associated with each of the species

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 plants belonging to the genus Ginkgo and particularly as designating the species Ginkgo biloba.

The extract of Ginkgo biloba can be any extract prepared from any plant material obtained from at least one plant of the genus Ginkgo.

Thus, the Ginkgo extract used according to the invention can be obtained from plant material obtained from a whole plant or from plant parts such as the leaves, stems, flowers, petals, seeds, roots or even dedifferentiated cells.

By dedifferentiated plant cells is meant any plant cell having none of the characteristics of a particular specialization and capable of living by itself and not in dependence on other cells.

Preferably according to the invention, an extract prepared from green leaves is used.

The extract of at least one plant of the genus Ginkgo can be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from at least one plant of the genus Ginkgo cultivated in vivo or derived from culture in vitro.

 The term “in vivo culture” means any culture of the conventional type, that is to say in soil in the open air or in a greenhouse, or even above ground.

 The term “in vitro culture” means all of the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially make it possible to obtain a plant or part of a plant. The selection pressure imposed by the physico-chemical conditions during the growth of plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material which is available throughout the year unlike plants cultivated in vivo.

 Preferably according to the invention, a plant derived from culture in vivo is used.

 Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the extract contained in the composition according to the invention.

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Mention may in particular be made of aqueous and / or alcoholic extracts or those using an organic solvent. The term “aqueous solvent” means any solvent consisting wholly or partly of water.

Mention may in particular be made, among alcoholic solvents, of monoalcohols such as ethanol and polyols. Mention may also be made of water itself, hydroalcoholic solvents in any proportion or else solvents consisting of water and a compound such as propylene glycol in any proportion.

One can thus use an extract prepared by the method described in French patent application No. 95-02379 filed by the applicant.

In a first step, the plant material is ground in a cold aqueous solution, in a second step, the particles in suspension are removed from the aqueous solution obtained from the first step, and in a third step, the aqueous solution obtained from the second is sterilized. step. This aqueous solution corresponds to the extract.

On the other hand, the first step can advantageously be replaced by a simple freezing operation of the plant tissues (for example at -20 ° C.), followed by an aqueous extraction repeating the second and third steps described above.

 Whatever the mode of preparation used according to the invention, subsequent steps aimed at promoting conservation and / or stabilization can be added without modifying the very nature of the extract. Thus, for example, the extract obtained can be lyophilized by all conventional lyophilization methods. A powder is thus obtained which can be used directly or mixed in an appropriate solvent before use.

 Preferably according to the invention, a dry aqueous extract of Ginkgo biloba sold by the company LINNEA is used under the trade name "standard Ginkgo biloba extract".

 According to the invention, the amount of Ginkgo biloba extract used in the composition is of course a function of the desired effect and can therefore vary to a large extent.

 To give an order of magnitude, according to the invention, the extract can be used in an amount representing from 0.001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition and preferably in an amount representing from 0.005% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

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The compositions used according to the invention are intended for topical application to the skin and / or its integuments and therefore contain a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with skin tissues such as the skin, the scalp, the eyelashes. , eyebrows, hair, nails and mucous membranes. This physiologically acceptable medium can more particularly consist of water and optionally a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol.

When the physiologically acceptable medium is an aqueous medium, it generally has a pH compatible with the skin, preferably ranging from 3 to 9 and better still from 3.5 to 7.5.

 The compositions according to the invention may be in all the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil emulsions ( W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

 In addition, the compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, 'a paste, a foam. They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.

 When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, this preferably contains at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, synthetic esters and ethers, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols having

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 from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone fluorinated oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is understood to mean, in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The composition according to the invention may also contain other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are for example fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, waxes, silicone resins, and silicone elastomers.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring matter, salts. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.

 As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may, for example, be made, in addition to pigments, of silica powder; talc; polyamide particles,

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 polyethylene powders, microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, expanded powders, microbeads of silicone resin, and mixtures thereof. These fillers can be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, in the context of the implementation of the present invention, the composition containing at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba can, in addition, contain at least one other active agent chosen from depigmenting agents, anti-pollution agents and / or anti-free radicals, and the soothing agents, the desquamating agents capable of acting, either by promoting exfoliation, or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the degradation of the corneodesmosomes, the hydrating agents, the anti-glycation agents, the 5a-reductase inhibitors, lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes , muscle relaxants, antimicrobial agents, tensing agents, lipolytic active agents or having a favorable activity, direct or indi rect, on the reduction of adipose tissue, the agents acting on the microcirculation, and the agents acting on the energy metabolism of the cells.

 In particular, the composition containing at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba used according to the invention can, in addition, contain at least one other active agent chosen from plant extracts (for example an extract of rose or beech buds), retinoids such as retinol, ascorbic acid and its salts and esters, tocopherol and its salts and esters, (3-carotene, salicylic acid and its 5-alkanoyl derivatives, and kojic acid.

 In another advantageous aspect of the invention, the composition used also contains at least one organic photoprotective agent and / or at least one inorganic photoprotective agent active in UVA and / or UVB, water-soluble or liposoluble or else insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents.

The organic photoprotective agents are especially chosen from anthranilates, cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in the US patent applications
4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469, EP933376,

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 EP507691, EP507692, EP790243, EP944624; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of ss, ss-diphenylacrylate; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); derivatives of methylene bis- (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) as described in s applications US5,237,071, US5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649 and their mixtures.

The organic photoprotective agents more particularly preferred are chosen from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor , terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetra-sulfonate, 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino diisobutyl benzalmalonate) -s-triazine, anisotriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

 The inorganic photoprotective agents are chosen from pigments or else nanopigments (average size of the primary particles: between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of metallic oxides coated or not, such as for example nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile form and / or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se. Conventional coating agents are moreover alumina and / or aluminum stearate. Such metallic oxide nanopigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent applications EP518772 and EP518773.

 The photoprotective agents are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

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The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for bleaching the skin and / or hair and / or hair, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to the skin and / or hair and / or hair.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process intended for eliminating pigmentary spots on the surface of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The compounds are, as the case may be, given chemical names or CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names.

Example 1: care fluid: Phase A: Water qs 100%
Glycerin 3%
Preservatives 0.5%
Disodium EDTA 0.05%
Butylene glycol 3%
Ginkgo biloba extract 1%
Phase B: Cyclohexasiloxane 8% glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate / polysorbate 60 / cetyl alcohol / stearic acid 3.8%
Preservatives 0.15%
Perfume 0.1%
Phase C: 2% gelling agent (* Dry aqueous extract of Ginkgo biloba marketed by the company LINNEA).

The above fluid is prepared in a conventional manner:
Phase A is heated with stirring to 80 ° C until perfect solubilization. Phase B is heated with stirring to 80 C until a clear phase is obtained, then added to the phase
With stirring. The mixture is then cooled to 30 C. Phase C is then introduced and the temperature of the mixture is brought back to 25 C.

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Example 2: whitening toner: Phase A: Water qs 100%
Glycerin 2%
Preservatives 0.3%
Denatured alcohol 2%
Disodium EDTA 0.15%
Ginkgo biloba extract * 0.5% Phase B: Fragrance 0.05%
PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 0.15% (* Dry aqueous extract of Ginkgo biloba sold by the company LINNEA) The above composition is prepared as follows: The constituents of phase A are dissolved in water at 80 C until complete dissolution. Phase B is added to phase A after prior solubilization of the perfume, and the mixture is cooled to 25 C.

Example 3: care:
The composition below is prepared in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art.

Stearic acid 0.6%
Glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate 0.3%
Butylene glycol 1%
Salicylic acid 0.1%
0.2% Tocopheryl acetate
Disodium EDTA 0.05%
Cyclopentasiloxane 5%
0.1% UV filter
Glycerin 3%
Ginkgo biloba extract * 0.01%
Polyacrylamide, C 13-C 14 isoparafine,

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laureth-7 1.7%
Plant extracts 1.51%
Kojic acid 1%
Preservatives 0.7%
Perfume 0.1%
Water qs 100% (* Dry aqueous extract of Ginkgo biloba sold by the company LINNEA)

Claims (15)

 CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba, in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as a bleaching agent for the skin and / or hair and / or hair. 2. Cosmetic use of at least one Ginkgo biloba extract, in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent inhibiting melanogenesis induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. 3. Cosmetic use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba, in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent for eliminating pigmentary spots on the surface of the skin. 4. Use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba for the manufacture of a dermatological composition, containing a physiologically acceptable medium, intended for depigmenting the skin and / or the hairs and / or the hair. 5. Use of at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba for the manufacture of a dermatological composition, containing a physiologically acceptable medium, intended for treating disorders of the hypermelanosis type. 6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Ginkgo biloba is obtained from plant material obtained from whole plant or from leaves, stems, flowers, petals, seeds, roots or dedifferentiated cells.  7. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that the extract of Ginkgo biloba is obtained from leaves.  8. Use according to one of claims 6 to 7, characterized in that the extract of Ginkgo biloba is a dry aqueous extract. <Desc / Clms Page number 14> 9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Ginkgo biloba is present in an amount between 0.001% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the extract of Ginkgo biloba is present in an amount between 0.005% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also comprises at least one active agent chosen from depigmenting agents, anti-pollution and / or anti-free radical agents, and soothing agents, desquamating agents capable of act, either by promoting exfoliation, or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, hydrating agents, anti-glycation agents, 5a-reductase inhibitors, lysyl inhibitors and / or prolyl hydroxylase, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle relaxants, anti-microbial agents, tensing agents, active lipolytics or having a favorable activity, direct or indirect, on the reduction of adipose tissue, the agents health on microcirculation, and agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells.  12. Use according to claim 11, characterized in that the composition also comprises at least one other active agent chosen from plant extracts, retinoids, ascorbic acid and its salts and esters, tocopherol and its salts and esters, [3-carotene, salicylic acid and its 5-alkanoyl derivatives, and kojic acid.  13. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one organic photoprotective agent and / or at least one inorganic photoprotective agent active in UVA and / or UVB.  14. Cosmetic process for bleaching the skin and / or body hair and / or hair, comprising the application to the skin and / or body hair and / or hair of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an extract of Ginkgo biloba. <Desc / Clms Page number 15> 15. Cosmetic process intended for eliminating pigmentary spots on the surface of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of Ginkgo biloba.