FR2846231A1 - Cosmetic combination useful in compositions for treating the hair and/or skin comprises climbazole and a phenolic essential oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic combination (complex) comprises climbazole and a phenolic essential oil. An Independent claim is also included for a cosmetic composition comprising the combination.

Description

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 The present invention relates to a cosmetic complex comprising climbazole and at least one essential oil of vegetable origin, cosmetic compositions containing this complex as well as their uses in the field of cosmetics, in particular to reduce, prevent and / or treat the relubrication of hair.

 Shampoos intended for oily hair are generally very detergent products and very concentrated in surfactants. These are aggressive products, which dry out the hair. These shampoos have low use qualities in terms of foaming and cosmetic performance: thus the foam obtained is rough, and wet wet hair are difficult to disentangle hair. In addition, dried hair is dry, brittle, dull and lacks softness. The hair is damaged.

 In addition to being aggressive for the hair, these shampoos also attack the scalp. Indeed, they do not respect the balance of the scalp because they modify the naturally occurring bacterial flora of the scalp.

 Other shampoos, more "cosmetic" because intended for normal to oily hair, also exist. These are products based on surfactants and hair conditioning agents such as cationic polymers and / or silicones or derivatives. Nevertheless, when these shampoos are more particularly intended for oily hair, the composition of these products is based on a rebalancing of the constituents usually present in this type of products, which means that one balances the ratio between the surfactant and the cationic polymers and / or silicones and derivatives. It is therefore by a lowering of the cosmetic level, that is to say by a reduction of hair conditioning agents such as cationic polymers and / or silicones and derivatives, that these products

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 intended for oily hair are prepared. However, these shampoos have the disadvantage of not meeting the needs of oily hair. On the other hand, the conditioning agents present in these products can accumulate on the surface of the hair and thus weigh down the hair.

This results in a flat appearance of the hair and a faster lubrication of the hair.

 The Applicant has discovered that the combination of climbazole with at least one essential oil of vegetable origin makes it possible to avoid all or some of the disadvantages and disadvantages mentioned above.

 Indeed, this combination has the surprising advantages of being able to reduce, prevent and / or treat the regreasing of the hair, while respecting the balance of the bacterial flora of the scalp.

 The compounds of the cosmetic complex of the invention are not detergent, are easily absorbed by the hair thus avoiding their accumulation on the surface of the hair and the heaviness of the hair.

 The present invention firstly relates to a cosmetic complex characterized in that it comprises climbazole and an aromatic monocyclic essential oil of the phenol family.

 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aromatic monocyclic essential oil of the phenol family is a cumene derivative such as thymol.

 According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the aromatic monocyclic essential oil of the phenol family is chosen from the group consisting of Thymus vulgaris (thyme), Origanum compactum (oregano), Satureja montana (savory), Laurus nobilis (laurel ), Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary), Myrtus communis (myrtle), Citrus reticulata (mandarin) and Citrus limonum (lemon tree).

 The cosmetic complex of the invention preferably further comprises an essential oil of the family of sesquiterpene alcohols, preferably alpha-bisabolol.

 Alpha-bisabolol is used in particular for its soothing action.

 According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the essential oil of the

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 The family of sesquiterpene alcohols is selected from the group consisting of Matricaria chamomilla (chamomile chamomile), Chamaemelum nobile (Roman chamomile), Ormenis mixta (chamomile vulgaris), Citrus bergamia (bergamot), Cymbopognon citratus (Indian verbena), Salvia sclarea (sage scalped), Salvia officinalis (officinal sage), Daucus carota (carrot) and Santalum album (sandalwood).

 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the climbazole included in the cosmetic complex may represent from 10 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the complex, preferably from 15 to 35%, and even more preferably approximately 20%.

 According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the aromatic monocyclic essential oil of the family of phenols included in the cosmetic complex may represent from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the complex, preferably from 0 to , 2 to 3%, and even more preferably approximately 0.5%.

 According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the essential oil of the family of sesquiterpene alcohols included in the cosmetic complex may represent from 5 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the complex, preferably from 10 to 50% and more preferably about 40%.

 Preferably, the cosmetic complex of the invention is characterized in that it comprises (percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the complex): - about 20% of climbazole, - about 0.5% of thymol and, - about 40% alpha-bisabolol.

 The cosmetic complex is usually colorless to yellow in color. It does not have a particular smell and has the advantage of being neutral.

 A complex according to the invention can be used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions, which constitute another object of the present invention.

 The present invention thus has for another object a composition

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 cosmetic comprising a cosmetic complex as defined above.

 A cosmetic composition according to the invention usually comprises, besides said cosmetic complex, at least one cosmetic agent (s) such as water, anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactant, anionic polymer, nonionic and / or amphoteric, a protein, a protein hydrolyzate, a ceramide, a pseudoceramide, a linear or branched chain fatty acid, an alphahydroxy acid (AHA), a vitamin, a fatty acid ester, a volatile silicone or non-volatile, soluble or non-soluble in the form of an oil, gum, resin and / or its organomodified counterparts, a moisturizing agent, an anti-dandruff agent, an antiseborrhoeic agent, a thickening agent, ethanol, a sunscreen, an antibacterial agent, a preservative such as butylene glycol, a perfume, a dye, an antioxidant, a pH regulator, an antiperspirant, an anti-free radical agent, a solvent of the glycols family and such as propylene glycol, a mineral oil, an organic oil and / or a synthetic oil, a pearlescent agent, an opacifying agent, a coloring agent.

 The anionic surfactants may be of sulfate type such as salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates , alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylethersulfates or alkylethersulfosuccinates. Preferably, an anionic surfactant chosen from sodium (C12-14) alkyl ethers, triethanolamine or ammonium oxyethylenated ethers with about 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide is used.

 The anionic surfactants may also be of the phosphate, sulphonate and / or carboxylate type, such as alkyl sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkylarylsulphonates, α-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl amide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, alkyl sulpho acetates, alkyl ether phosphates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl isethionates. and N-acyltaurates.

 The nonionic surfactants are preferably alkylpolyglycosides, in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

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 The amphoteric surfactants may be, in particular, secondary or tertiary aliphatic derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group, such as a carboxylate group, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate; alkyl (C8-20) betaines, (C8-2) alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-20) alkylamido (C1-6) alkylbetaines or (C8-20) alkylamido (C1-6) alkylsulfobetaines.

 The anionic polymers that can be used can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair treated with detergent compositions. They also have a role of viscosifying agent, stabilizer and / or rheology modifier.

 A cosmetic composition according to the invention may consist in particular of a product intended for the hair such as a shampoo, an after-shampoo, a conditioning cream for the hair, a detangling cream for the hair, a hair gel, a hair lotion, a hair conditioner or any hair product.

 As an indication, mention may be made of shampoos and conditioners rinsed or not rinsed, intended for all types of hair (including film), alcoholic lotions, hydroalcoholic or aqueous hair styling products in all their forms (spray, gel, gum, aerosol), technical products such as perms or products of coloring or discoloration, hair makeup products, etc.

 A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also consist of a product for application on the face and / or the body such as a cream, a milk, a lotion, a gel, a cream gel, a mask, a serum, an oil and an ointment.

 As an indication, mention may be made of products intended for care or treatment of the face for all types of skin, and in particular for problem skin, such as oily and / or acneic skin, such as: purifying masks, scrubs, moisturizers - lotions, milks, creams and make-up removing oils, moisturizing, toning, - gels, milks, creams and lotions foaming or not foaming, rinsable or

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 not rinsable with water, single phase, bi-, tri- or multiphase, wipes, liquid powders (talc powder for example) etc ....

 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic complex of the invention represents from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.02 to 4%, and even more preferentially. from 0.5 to 2%.

 The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating the skin and / or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the hair and / or the skin a cosmetic composition as defined above.

 The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic complex or a cosmetic composition as defined above, for the treatment of hair and / or skin.

 The complex or the cosmetic composition may in particular be used to reduce, prevent and / or treat the regreasing of the hair, to rebalance the bacterial flora of the scalp.

 In addition, the complex or the cosmetic composition of the invention has the advantage of softening and soothing the scalp, and not only to make the hair clean, but also to keep them clean longer.

 The examples below illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLES Example 1: Cosmetic complex in solution
A cosmetic complex solution of the invention having the following composition was prepared: 25% climbazole, 3% thymol, and 72% propylene glycol. from a complex having the following composition.

- 25% of climbazole, and - 3% of thymol.

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 In the foregoing and in what follows, the percentages are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 2 Cosmetic Complex in Solution
A cosmetic complex solution of the invention having the following composition was prepared: 20% climbazole, 0.5% thymol, 40% alpha-bisabolol, and 39.5% propylene glycol.

Example 3: Pearly Shampoo
The various constituents of the pearlescent shampoo, as well as their proportions (percentages by weight) are as follows:

<Tb>
<tb> Laurylethersulfate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> (Texapon <SEP> N <SEP> 70-Cognis) <SEP> 14
<tb> Cococamphodiacetate <SEP> disodium <SEP> (Miranol <SEP> C2M-Rhone <SEP> Poulenc) <SEP> 8
<tb> Cocoamide-DEA <SEP> (Comperlan <SEP> 100 <SEP> - <SEP> Cognis) <SEP> 3
<tb> Solution <SEP> of <SEP> complex <SEP> cosmetic <SEP> of <SEP> example <SEP> 2 <SEP> 1,5
<tb> Distearate <SEP> from <SEP> glycol <SEP> (Tegin <SEP>#<SEP> BL <SEP> 315 <SEP> - <SEP> Goldschmidt) <SEP> 2
<tb> Dimethicone Copolyol <SEP> (Dow <SEP> Corning) <SEP> 0.5
<tb> Polyquaternium-10 <SEP> (Ucar <SEP>#<SEP> JR <SEP> 400 <SEP> - <SEP> Amerchol) <SEP> 0.4
<tb> Fragrance <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> / <SEP> Sequestrants <SEP> / <SEP> Buffer <SEP> pH <SEP> Qs
<tb> Colorants <SEP> Qs
<tb> Water <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100
<Tb>
Qs means "sufficient quantity" Qsp means "sufficient quantity for"

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Exempt 4: Shampoo

<Tb>
<tb> Laurylethersulfate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> (Texapon <SEP>#<SEP> N <SEP> 70-Cognis) <SEP> 14
<tb> Alkylpolyglucoside <SEP> (Plantacare <SEP> PS <SEP> 10 <SEP># - <SEP> Cognis) <SEP> 8
<tb> Cocoamidopropylbetaine <SEP> (Déhyton <SEP> K <SEP># - <SEP> Cognis) <SEP> 8
<tb> Solution <SEP> of <SEP> complex <SEP> cosmetic <SEP> of <SEP> example <SEP> 2 <SEP> 1,5 <SEP>
<tb> Fragrance <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> / <SEP> Sequestrants <SEP> / <SEP> Buffer <SEP> pH <SEP> Qs
<tb> Colorants <SEP> Qs <SEP>
<tb> Water <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100
<Tb>
Example 5: Conditioner

<Tb>
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> cetyl <SEP> stearyl alcohol <SEP> to <SEP> mole <SEP> oxide <SEP> ethylene <SEP> 2,5
<tb> (Lanette <SEP>#<SEP> 0 <SEP> - <SEP> Cognis)
<tb> Cétéareth-20 <SEP>#<SEP> (Eumulgin <SEP> B2 <SEP> - <SEP> Cognis) <SEP> 0.7 <SEP>
<tb> Phosphate <SEP> ammoniacal <SEP> oxyethyl <SEP> alkyl <SEP> (Quaternium-52 <SEP>) <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>
<tb> Solution <SEP> of <SEP> complex <SEP> cosmetic <SEP> of <SEP> example <SEP> 2 <SEP> 1,5
<tb> Fragrance <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> / <SEP> Sequestrants <SEP> / <SEP> Buffer <SEP> pH <SEP> Qs <SEP>
<tb> Colorants <SEP> Qs <SEP>
<tb> Water <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100
<Tb>
Example 6: Lotion moisturizing & moisturizing oily skin

<Tb>
<tb> 1,3-Butylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 3
<tb> Glycerin <SEP> 4
<tb> Chloride <SEP> of <SEP> Sodium <SEP> 0.9
<tb> Solution <SEP> of <SEP> complex <SEP> cosmetic <SEP> of <SEP> example <SEP> 2 <SEP> 1,5 <SEP>
<tb> Fragrance <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> / <SEP> Sequestrants <SEP> / <SEP> Buffer <SEP> pH <SEP> Qs <SEP>
<tb> Colorants <SEP> Qs
<tb> Water <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP>
<Tb>

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Example 7 Cream with a Natural Hydration Effect

<Tb>
<tb> Caprylic / Capric <SEP> Triglyceride <SEP> 13
<tb> Cocoate <SEP> ethyl <SEP> hexyl <SEP> 3
<tb> Esters <SEP> Cylics <SEP> 3
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> cetearyl <SEP> 3
<tb> Stearate <SEP> of <SEP> sorbitan <SEP> 2
<tb> Glycerin <SEP> 3
<tb> Solution <SEP> of <SEP> complex <SEP> cosmetic <SEP> of <SEP> example <SEP> 2 <SEP> 1,5
<tb> Fragrance <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> / <SEP> Sequestrants <SEP> / <SEP> Buffer <SEP> pH <SEP> Qs
<tb> Colorants <SEP> Qs
<tb> Water <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP>
<Tb>
Example 8: moisturizing emollient lotion

<Tb>
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> of <SEP> lanolin <SEP> 1.25
<tb> Oil <SEP> mineral <SEP> 35
<tb> Vaseline <SEP> pure <SEP> 4.20
<tb> Stearic acid <SEP><SEP> 1.60
<tb> Polawax <SEP> GP200 <SEP> 0.83 <SEP>
<tb> Glycerin <SEP> 0.83 <SEP>
<tb> Climbazole <SEP> 0.1
<tb> Citrus <SEP> Reticulata <SEP> (Oil <SEP> Essential <SEP> of <SEP> Mandarin <SEP> - <SEP> Agipal) <SEP> 0.001
<tb> Salvia <SEP> Officinalis <SEP> (Oil <SEP> essential <SEP> of <SEP> sage <SEP> Scarlea <SEP> - <SEP> Agipal) <SEP> 0,1
<tb> Perfume <SEP> 0.5
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> / <SEP> Sequestrants <SEP> / <SEP> Buffer <SEP> pH <SEP> Qs
<tb> Colorants <SEP> Qs
<tb> Water <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100
<Tb>

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Example 9: Shampoo
A shampoo having the following composition was prepared:

<Tb>
<tb> Phase <SEP> Ingredients <SEP> - <SEP> Vendors <SEP> Percentages
<tb> B <SEP> Laurylethersulfate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> 45
<tb> B <SEP> Coco-Betaine <SEP> 8
<tb> C <SEP> Cocamide <SEP> MEA <SEP> 1.5 <SEP>
<tb> A <SEP> Polyquaternium-10 <SEP> (Ucar <SEP> Polymer <SEP> JR-400 <SEP> - <SEP> National <SEP> Starch) <SEP> 0.25
<tb> D <SEP> Fragrance <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>
<tb> D <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> hydrogenated castor <SEP><SEP> 0,5
<tb> E <SEP> Solution <SEP> of <SEP> complex <SEP> cosmetic <SEP> of <SEP> example <SEP> 2 <SEP> 1
<tb> E <SEP> Methyl <SEP> paraben <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> 0.3
<tb> E <SEP> DMDM <SEP> Hydantoin <SEP> (Glydant <SEP> - <SEP> Lonza) <SEP> 0.2 <SEP>
<tb> F <SEP><SEP> citric acid <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>
<tb> G1 <SEP><SEP> citric acid <SEP> up to <SEP> pH <SEP> 7
<tb> G2 <SEP> Hydroxide <SEP> from <SEP> Sodium <SEP> to <SEP> pH <SEP> 7
<tb> Water <SEP> desionized <SEP> 41.7
<tb> 100
<Tb>
@ Manufacturing process :
Phase A is dispersed in water and heated to 75-80 ° C. Mix until complete solubilization. The ingredients of phase B and phase C are added separately. The ingredients of phases D, E and F are added at 40 C. The pH is then adjusted by adding the ingredients of phases G1 and G2, if necessary to obtain a pH of 7 0.5.

Example 10 Test Demonstrating the Anti-Regreasing Effect of the Hair of the Shampoo of Example 9
The anti-regreasing effect of the composition of Example 8 was evaluated in a double-blind in vivo test.

 The test is performed on two groups of 15 subjects aged between 18 and 65 years old with a Caucasian skin type.

 Clinical examination of patients' scalp

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 arrived without washing their hair and measuring areas are determined on the scalp.

 The sebum level of the scalp is then measured using a sebumeter and a lock of hair is taken.

 From the beginning of the test (J1), the subjects wash their hair with, on the one hand the shampoo of Example 8 (Group 1) and, on the other hand, a placebo (Group 2).

Immediately after shampooing and after 4 hours, 8 hours and 24 hours, the following operations are carried out: - measurement with sebumeter, - removal of another lock of hair, - extraction of lipids from the hair in an ethanolic medium, - evaporation of the medium - fluorescent staining of lipids using the "NILE RED" dye - fluorescence reading using a FLUOROSCAN 2 # LAB instrument
SYSTEM after excitation at 485 nm and reading at 538 nm.

 Between D2 and D20 the subjects wash their hair three times a week with the products to be tested.

 At D21, the subjects did not wash their hair and sebum content was measured with the sebumeter on the zones defined on the first day of the test, the scalp was examined, and the subjects were asked to submit a questionnaire. subjective evaluation.

The results are as follows: Effect of sebo-regulation
After 21 days of testing (3 shampoos a week) a sebo-regulation effect was observed on 47% of the volunteers having tested the shampoo of Example 8.

Lipid analysis of hair
At 24 h, the regreasing was complete with the placebo while the shampoo of Example 8 avoids the complete regreasing of the hair.

Claims (18)

1. A cosmetic complex characterized in that it comprises climbazole and an aromatic monocyclic essential oil of the phenol family.  2. Cosmetic complex according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises an essential oil of the family of sesquiterpene alcohols.  3. Cosmetic complex according to claim 1 or claim 2 characterized in that the aromatic monocyclic essential oil of the phenol family is a cumene derivative such as thymol.  4. Cosmetic complex according to claim 1 or claim 2 characterized in that the aromatic monocyclic essential oil of the family of phenols is selected from the group consisting of Thymus vulgaris (thyme), Origanum compactum (oregano), Satureja montana (savory ), Laurus nobilis (laurel), Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary), Myrtus communis (myrtle), Citrus reticulata (mandarin) and Citrus limonum (lemon tree).  5. Cosmetic complex according to one of Claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the essential oil of the family of sesquiterpene alcohols is alpha-bisabolol.  6. Cosmetic complex according to one of Claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the essential oil of the family of sesquiterpene alcohols is chosen from the group consisting of Matricaria chamomilla (Chamomile chamomile), Chamaemelum nobile (Roman chamomile), Ormenis mixta (chamomile vulgaris), Citrus bergamia (bergamot), Cymbopognon citratus (indian verbena), Salvia sclarea (scalped sage), Salvia officinalis (officinal sage), Daucus carota (carrot) and Santalum album (sandalwood).  7. Cosmetic complex according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that: - the climbazole represents from 10 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the <Desc / Clms Page number 13>  complex, and the aromatic monocyclic essential oil of the phenol family represents from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the complex.  8. Cosmetic complex according to any one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that the essential oil of the family of sesquiterpene alcohols represents from 5 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the complex.  9. Cosmetic complex according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises (percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the complex): About 20% of climbazole, About 0.5% of thymol and, About 40% alpha-bisabolol.  10. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic complex as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.  11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it further comprises at least one or more cosmetic agent (s) chosen from water, an anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactant. , anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric polymer, a protein, a protein hydrolyzate, a ceramide, a pseudoceramide, a linear or branched chain fatty acid, an alphahydroxy acid (AHA), a vitamin, a fatty acid ester , a volatile or non-volatile silicone, soluble or non-soluble in the form of an oil, a gum, a resin and / or its organomodified counterparts, a moisturizing agent, an anti-dandruff agent, an antiseborrhoeic agent, a thickening agent, ethanol , a sunscreen, an antibacterial agent, a preservative such as butylene glycol, a perfume, a dye, an antioxidant, a pH regulator, an antiperspirant, an anti-free radical agent, a solvent of the family of glycols and derivatives such as propylene glycol, a mineral oil, an organic oil and / or a synthetic oil, a pearlescent agent, an opacifying agent, a coloring agent.  12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of <Desc / Clms Page number 14>  Claims 10 and 11, characterized in that it consists of a product for the hair such as a shampoo, a conditioner, a conditioning cream for the hair, a detangling cream for the hair, a hair gel, a lotion for hair, a hair conditioner or any hair product.  13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10 and 11, characterized in that it consists of a product for application on the face and / or body such as a cream, a milk, a lotion, a gel, a cream gel, a mask, a serum, an oil and an ointment.  14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10 to 13, characterized in that the cosmetic complex represents from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.  15. Cosmetic process for treating the skin and / or hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the hair and / or the skin a cosmetic complex as defined in one of Claims 1 to 9 or a composition cosmetic as defined in any one of claims 10 to 14.  16. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 10 to 14 for the treatment of hair and / or skin.  17. Use according to claim 16 for reducing, preventing and / or treating hair regreasing.  18. Use according to claim 16 for rebalancing the bacterial flora of the scalp.