FR2840806A1 - COLORED SELF-TANNING COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE RED OR ORANGE DYE CHOSEN AMONG FLUORANES OR THEIR ALKALI METAL SALTS - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to colored cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions for topical use intended for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin, characterized in that they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one mono- or polycarbonylated self-tanning agent and at least one red or orange dye chosen from fluoranes or their alkali metal salts. The colored composition according to the invention does not fade over time and also exhibits good self-tanning efficacy on the skin (intensity and durability of the coloring). The invention also relates to the use of this composition in the above-mentioned cosmetic application.

Description

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COLORED SELF-TANNING COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE RED OR ORANGE DYE CHOSEN AMONG FLUORANES OR THEIR ALKALI METAL SALTS The invention relates to colored cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions for topical use intended for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin, characterized by the fact that they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one self-tanning agent mono- or polycarbonylated and at least one red or orange dye chosen from fluoranes or their alkali metal salts.

It is known that mono- or polycarbonylated compounds such as for example isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, dihydroxyacetone (DHA) are particularly interesting products which are commonly used in cosmetics as artificial tanning agents for the skin.

Applied to the skin, in particular to the face, these compounds make it possible to obtain a tanning or browning effect of appearance more or less similar to that which may result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a lamp. UV. Such use also has the advantage of completely avoiding the risks of skin reaction generally associated with the aforementioned prolonged exposures (erythema, burns, loss of elasticity, appearance of wrinkles, premature aging of the skin, and others).

To better visualize the application of self-tanning formulations on the skin or to make them more aesthetic, red or orange water-soluble or liposoluble organic dyes or red or orange mineral pigments such as iron oxides are generally incorporated into the composition. In order to obtain a wide range of shades or if it is desired to visualize on the skin the application of the self-tanning product with a shade close to the skin, the presence of red or orange dyes in the composition is necessary.

Iron oxides are generally incompatible with mono- or polycarbonylated compounds and more particularly dihydroxyacetone (DHA). The drawbacks of fat-soluble dyes are the dyeing of packaging articles and the staining of skin and clothing. Colored self-tanning formulations based on red organic water-soluble dyes do not have these drawbacks but generally tend to discolour over time.

Also known in patent applications EP1060738 and US patent 6,113,888 are colored self-tanning compositions based on cochineal carmine. This particular dye is a raw material of animal origin, of poorly reproducible quality and whose supplies are dependent on climatic conditions.

The present invention seeks new colored self-tanning compositions based on a mono- or polycarbonylated compound and containing at least one red dye which do not have the drawbacks defined above and in particular which do not fade over time and exhibit on the other hand good self-tanning efficacy on the skin (intensity and color fastness).

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Thus, as a result of important research carried out on the question, it has now been found by the Applicant, and this in a completely unexpected and surprising manner, that it is possible to improve the stability over time of the color. of self-tanning compositions colored using a red or orange dye of the fluorane type or its alkali metal salt. The compositions obtained do not have the drawbacks indicated above specific to the use of dyes of the prior art.

This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

In accordance with one of the objects of the present invention, it is therefore now proposed new cosmetic and / or dermatological colored compositions intended for artificial tanning of the skin, characterized in that they contain, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at at least one mono- or polycarbonylated self-tanning agent and at least one red or orange dye chosen from fluoranes and their alkali metal salts.

dans laquelle X, Y, Z et Z', indépendamment les uns des autres, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un atome d'halogène sous réserve qu'au moins un des groupes X, Y Z et Z' désigne un atome d'halogène. The red or orange dyes of the fluorane type in accordance with the invention correspond to the following formula (1):

in which X, Y, Z and Z ', independently of each other, denote a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom provided that at least one of the groups X, YZ and Z' denotes a halogen atom .

Among the fluorane type dyes of formula (I) in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned: - tetrabromofluoroscein or eosin (X = Y = Br and Z = Z '= H) known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 or Red 21 - phloxine B (X = Y = Br and Z = Z '= CI) known as CTFA: CI 45410 or Red 27 - diiodofluorescein (X = I, Y = Z = Z' = H) known as CTFA name: CI 45425 or Orange 10; - dibromofluorescein (X = Br, Y = Z = Z '= H) known under the name CTFA: CI 45370 or Orange 5.

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dans laquelle X, Y, Z et Z' ont les mêmes significations indiquées dans la formule (I) ci-dessus et M désigne un métal alcalin tel que Na et K . Their corresponding alkali metal salts correspond to the following formula (II):

in which X, Y, Z and Z 'have the same meanings indicated in formula (I) above and M denotes an alkali metal such as Na and K.

Among the dyes of formula (II) in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned: - the sodium salt of tetrabromofluoroscein (X = Y = Br; H; = Na) known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 (Na knows) or Red 22 - the sodium salt of phloxin B (X = Y = Br; Z = Z '= CI; M = Na) known as CTFA: CI 45410 (Na salt) or Red 28 - the sodium salt diiodofluorescein (X = #; Y = Z = Z '= H; M = Na) known as CTFA: CI 45425 (Na knows) or Orange 11; - Erythrosine (X = Y = #; Z = Z '= H; M = Na) known as CTFA: CI 45430 or Acid Red 51.

- phloxine (X = Y = Br; Z = H; Z '= CI; M = K) known as CTFA: CI 45405 or Acid Red 98.

More particularly, the tetrabromofluoroscein (Red 21) or its sodium salt (Red 22) will be used for the invention.

The fluorane dyes or their sodium salts in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the compositions of the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The mono or polycarbonylated self-tanning agents are chosen, for example, from isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5-diones derivatives as described in patent application FR 2466492 and WO 9735842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), derivatives of 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones as described in patent application EP-A-0903342.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, use will more particularly be made as self-tanning agent of dihydroxyacetone (DHA).

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain other artificial coloring agents for the skin, among which there may be mentioned in particular:

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(i) indole derivatives such as monohydroxyindoles as described in patent FR2651126 (ie: 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or di-hydroxyindoles as described in patent EP-B-0425324 (ie: 5, 6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl 5,6dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole); (ii) plant extracts for artificial coloring of the skin such as: - "insoluble" red wood extracts of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia such as Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or even Baphia nitida such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 971683; - plant extracts of the genus Saxifraga such as Saxifraga cuneifolia, Saxifraga glaucescens, Saxifraga rotundifolia, Saxifraga granulata, Saxifraga bulbifera, Saxifraga umbrosa, Saxifraga tridactylites; - Sorghum plant extracts such as Sorghum caudatum,
Sorghum Bicolor.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “artificial coloring agent for the skin” will be understood to mean any substance having a particular affinity for the skin allowing it to impart to the latter a lasting coloring which is not eliminated with water or using a solvent, and which resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such long-lasting coloring therefore differs from the surface and temporary coloring provided for example by a makeup product.

The self-tanning agents according to the invention are generally present in the compositions in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition The compositions can also additionally contain at least one organic UV filter and / or at least one inorganic UV filter active in UVA and / or UVB; said UV filters may be water-soluble, liposoluble or even insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.

Organic UV filters are chosen in particular from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469 and EP933376; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of ss, ss'-diphenylacrylate; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imadazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); derivatives of methylene bis- (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) as described in s applications US5,237,071, US5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586; the

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 derivatives of amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone in patent applications EP-A-1046391 and DE100 12 408 and their mixtures.

As examples of organic filters active in UV-A and / or UV-B, there may be mentioned designated above under their name INCI: Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid: - PABA, - Ethyl PABA, - Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, - Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by
ISP, - Glyceryl PABA, - PEG-25 PABA sold under the name UVINUL P25 by BASF, Salicylic derivatives: - Homosalate sold under the name EUSOLEX HMS by RONA / EM INDUSTRIES, - Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS by
HAARMANN and REIMER, - Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate sold under the name DIPSAL by SCHER, - TEA Salicylate, sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by HAARMANN and
REIMER, Dibenzovlmethane derivatives: - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, - Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, Cinnamic derivatives: - Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCXOCHEMANN, HOFFMANN, - Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E
1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER, - Cinoxate, - DEA Methoxycinnamate, - - Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, - Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Derivatives of ss, ss'-diphenylacrylate: - Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539
BASF, - Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N35 by
BASF, Benzophenone derivatives: - Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF, - Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF - Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL
M40 by BASF,

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- Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF, - Benzophenone-5 - Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name HELISORB 11 by
NORQUAY - Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name SPECTRA-SORB UV-24
BY AMERICAN CYANAMID - Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 by BASF, - Benzophenone-12 - 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -n-hexyl benzoate Benzylidene camphor derivative: - 3- Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by CHIMEX, - 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by
MERCK, - Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by
CHIMEX, - Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name MEXORYL SO by
CHIMEX, - -Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL
SX by CHIMEX, - Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MESORYL
SW by CHIMEX, Phenyl benzimidazole derivatives: - Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name EUSOLEX 232 by MERCK, - Benzimidazilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN
AP by HAARMANN and REIMER, Triazine derivatives: - Anisotriazine sold under the trade name TINOSORB S by CIBA GEIGY, - Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL T150 by BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name UVASORB
HEB by SIGMA 3V, - 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine.

Dphenyl benzotriazole derivatives: - Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name SILATRIZOLE by RHODIA
CHEMISTRY, - Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 100 by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trade name TINOSORB M by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS, Anthranilic derivatives: - Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO
HELIOPAN MA by HAARMANN and REIMER, Imidazoline derivatives:

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 - Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Benzalmalonate derivatives: - Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions sold under the trade name PARSOL SLX by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE and their mixtures.

The more particularly preferred organic UV filters are chosen from the following compounds: - Ethylhexyl Salicylate, - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, - Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, - Octocrylene, - Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, - Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic ,.

- Benzophenone-3, - Benzophenone-4, - Benzophenone-5, - 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -n-hexyl benzoate - 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, - Benzimidazilate, - Anisotriazine, - Ethylhexyl triazone, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, - 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino diisobutyl benzalmalonate) -s- triazine.

- Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, - Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The inorganic UV filters are generally chosen from pigments or else nanopigments (average size of the primary particles: between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of metallic oxides coated or not, such as nanopigments for example titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile form and / or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se. Conventional coating agents are moreover alumina and / or aluminum stearate. Such metal oxide nanopigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent applications EP-A-0518772 and EP-A-0518773.

The UV filters in accordance with the invention are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.2 to 15 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants in particular chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizers , emollients, silicones, α-hydroxy acids, defoamers, moisturizers, vitamins, insect repellents, perfumes,

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 preservatives, surfactants, anti-inflammatories, substance P antagonists, fillers, polymers, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents, dyes or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics and / or dermatology, in particular for the manufacture of compositions in the form of emulsions.

The fatty substances can consist of an oil or a wax or their mixtures.

By oil is meant a compound which is liquid at room temperature. The term “wax” is intended to mean a compound which is solid or substantially solid at room temperature, and the melting point of which is generally greater than 35 C.

As oils, mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed, jojoba); synthetics such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty acids or esters (such as the benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols sold under the trade name Finsolv TN by the company Finetex, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids), oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty esters and ethers; silicone (cyclomethicone, polydimethysiloxanes or PDMS) or fluorinated, polyalkylenes.

As waxy compounds, there may be mentioned paraffin, carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil.

Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols.

The thickeners can be chosen in particular from crosslinked polyacrylic acids; xanthan gums; guar gums such as hydroxypropylated guar gum; modified or unmodified celluloses such as methylhydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose; polyacrylamides such as Polyacrylamide (and) C13-C14-Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 sold under the trade name SEPIGEL 305 by the company SEPPIC; polymers of acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) such as Sodium Polyacryloyldimthyl Taurate (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate sold under the trade name SIMULGEL 800 by the company SEPPIC or Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Isohexadecane ) Polysorbate 80 sold under the trade name SIMULGEL EG by the company SEPPIC.

Among the additional dyes, mention will be made more particularly of caramel.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered. by the addition (s) envisaged.

 The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art, in particular those intended for the preparation of emulsions of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type.

This composition can be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W) such as a cream, a milk, or in the form

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 a gel or a cream gel, in the form of a lotion, powder, solid stick and possibly be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for artificially tanning and / or browning the skin, characterized in that it consists in applying to the latter an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

EXAMPLES Example 1: Red self-tanning cream - Mixture of glyceryl monostearate and PEG-100-stearate (SIMULSOL 165-SEPPIC) 1.75% by weight - DC 580 (Dow Corning) 1.0% by weight - Dimethicone 1% by weight weight - Volatile silicone 8% by weight - Dimethiconol 0.7% by weight - Xanthan gum 0.2% by weight - Glycerin 4% by weight - Propylene glycol 4% by weight - Dihydroxyacetone 5% by weight - CI 45380 / Red 21 (LCW) 0.01% by weight - Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel EG - SEPPIC) 2% by weight - Preservatives qs - Purified water qs 100% by weight

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 Example 2: Red self-tanning cream: - Mixture of glyceryl monostearate and PEG-100-stearate (SIMULSOL 165-SEPPIC) 1.75% by weight - DC 580 (Dow Corning) 1.0% by weight - Octocrylene 5% weight - Octyl Methoxycinnamate 5% by weight - Benzophenone-3 2% by weight - Dimethicone 1% by weight - Volatile silicone 8% by weight - Dimethiconol 0.7% by weight - Xanthan gum 0.2% by weight - Glycerin 4 % by weight - Propylene glycol 4% by weight - Dihydroxyacetone 5% by weight - CI 45380 / Red 22 (LCW) 0.01% by weight - Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel EG - SEPPIC) 2% by weight - Preservatives qs - Purified water qs 100% by weight

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 Example 3: Red self-tanning cream: - Mixture of alkyl polyglucosides and fatty alcohols (Montanov 202- SEPPIC) 3% by weight - Mixture of glyceryl monostearate and PEG-100-stearate (SIMULSOL 165-SEPPIC) 2% weight - Isohexadecane 4% by weight - Benzoate of alcohols in C12-15 (Finsolv TN- Finetex) 4% by weight - Tri-Citrate of alcohol in C14-15 - (Cosmacol ECL- Condea Augusta) 3% by weight - Dimethicone 1% by weight - Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5% by weight - Drometrizole trisiloxane 1.5% by weight - CI 45380 / Red 21 (LCW) 0.05% by weight - Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid 0.5% by weight - Glycerine 4% by weight - Propylene glycol 6% by weight - Dihydroxyacetone 5.0% by weight - Talc 1% by weight - Cross-linked corn starch 1% by weight - Ethanol 4.5% by weight - Polyacrylamide (and) C13-C14-Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 (Sepigel 305 - SEPPIC) 1.5% by weight - Soda qs - Preservatives qs - Purified water qs 100% by weight

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 Example 4: Red self-tanning cream: - Mixture of alkyl polyglucosides and fatty alcohols (Montanov 202- SEPPIC) 3% by weight - Mixture of glyceryl monostearate and PEG-100-stearate (SIMULSOL 165-SEPPIC) 2% weight - Isohexadecane 4% by weight - Benzoate of C 12-15 alcohols (Finsolv TN- Finetex) 4% by weight - Tri-Citrate of C14-15 alcohol (Cosmacol ECL- Condea Augusta) 2% by weight - Dimethicone 1% by weight - Octyl Methoxycinnamate 8.5% by weight - Drometrizole trisiloxane 1.5% by weight - CI 45380 / D & C Red 21 (LCW) 0.006% by weight - Mica coated with titanium oxide 0.5% by weight - Tocopherol mixture natural / soybean oil 0.2% by weight - Caramel 75% in water 1.7% by weight - Glycerin 4% by weight - Propylene glycol 4% by weight - Dihydroxyacetone 5.0% by weight - Ethanol 4.5% by weight - Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate (Simulgel 800 - SEPPIC) 2.7% by weight - Preservatives qs - Purified water qs 100% by weight Example 5 : Red self-tanning cream: - Mixture of alkyl polyglucosides and fatty alcohols (Montanov 68- SEPPIC) 7% by weight - Isohexadecane 4% by weight - Volatile silicone 2% by weight - Tri-Citrate of alcohol in C14-15 (Cosmacol ECL- Condea Augusta) 5% by weight - Dimethicone 1% by weight - Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5% by weight - Benzophenone-3 4% by weight - CI 45380 / Red 21 (LCW) 0.005% by weight - Mica coated with titanium oxide 3% by weight - Natural tocopherol / soybean oil mixture 0.2% by weight - Caramel 75% in water 1.5% by weight - Glycerin 4% by weight - Propylene glycol 4% by weight - Dihydroxyacetone 5.0 % by weight - perfume qs - Preservatives qs - Purified water qs 100% by weight

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 Example 6: Red self-tanning cream: - Mixture of glyceryl monostearate and PEG-100-stearate (SIMULSOL 165-SEPPIC) 1.75% by weight - DC 580 (Dow Corning) 1.0% by weight - Octocrylene 5% weight - Octyl Methoxycinnamate 5% by weight - Benzophenone-3 2% by weight - Dimethicone 1% by weight - Volatile silicone 8% by weight - Dimethiconol 0.7% by weight - Xanthan gum 0.2% by weight - Glycerin 4 % by weight - Propylene glycol 4% by weight - Dihydroxyacetone 5% by weight - CI 45380 / Red 21 (LCW) 0.01% by weight - Sodium acrylate / sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate and isohexadecane (Simulgel EG - SEPPIC) 2% by weight - Preservatives qs - Purified water qs 100% by weight The composition has a red color. After 1 month of storage at room temperature, no discoloration phenomenon is observed.

Example 7 (comparative): Identical to the composition of Example 5, but the red dye RED 21 is replaced by the water-soluble azo dye CI 15985 / YELLOW 6 in the same concentration.

The composition has an orange color. It completely discolours after 1 month of storage at room temperature.

Example 8 (comparative): Identical to the composition of Example 4, but the red dye RED 21 is replaced by the water-soluble azo dye CI 16035 / RED 40 in the same concentration.

The composition has a red / pink color. It completely discolours after 1 month of storage at room temperature.

Claims (26)

 CLAIMS 1. Colored cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, for topical use for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one self-tanning agent mono- or polycarbonylated and at least one red or orange dye chosen from fluoranes or their alkali metal salts. 2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the fluorane type dyes correspond to the following formula (1):

 in which X, Y, Z and Z ', independently of each other, denote a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom provided that at least one of the groups X, YZ and Z' denotes a halogen atom . 3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the fluorane type dye is chosen from: - Red 21 - Red 27 - Orange 10; - Orange 5. <Desc / CRUD Page number 15>  4. Composition according to claim 1, in which the alkali metal salts of said fluorane compounds correspond to the following formula (II):

 in which X, Y, Z and Z ', independently of each other, denote a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom provided that at least one of the groups X, YZ and Z' denotes a halogen atom and M denotes an alkali metal. 5. Composition according to claim 4, in which the compound of formula (II) is chosen from: - Red 22 - Red 28 - Orange 11; - Acid Red 51; - Acid Red 98. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the red or orange dye is Red 21 or its sodium salt: Red 22. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, where the red or orange dye is present in concentrations ranging from 0. 0001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001% to 0.2% by weight. total of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the mono or polycarbonylated self-tanning agent is chosen from isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose , derivatives of pyrazolin-4,5-diones, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), derivatives of 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones or their mixtures. 9. Composition according to claim 8, in which the self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone (DHA). 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it additionally contains another agent for artificial coloring of the skin. 11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein said coloring agent is chosen from: - monohydroxyindoles; <Desc / Clms Page number 16>  - di-hydroxyindoles; - plant extracts, artificial coloring agents for the skin. 12 Composition according to Claim 11, in which the plant extracts coloring agents are chosen from: - "insoluble" red wood extracts of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia; - plant extracts of the genus Saxifraga; - plant extracts of the genus Sorghum. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, in which the mon or polycarbonylated self-tanning agent (s) are present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably 0.2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one organic UV filter and / or at least one inorganic UV filter active in UVA and / or UVB . 15. Composition according to claim 14, in which the organic UV filter is chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of ss, P'-diphenylacrylate; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imadazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives; the filter polymers and filter silicones described; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes; the amino-substituted 2-hydroxy benzophenone derivatives or their mixtures. 16. Composition according to claim 15, in which the organic UV filter is chosen from: - Ethylhexyl Salicylate, - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, - Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, - Octocrylene, - Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, - Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic ,. - Benzophenone-3, - Benzophenone-4, - Benzophenone-5, - 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -n-hexyl benzoate - 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, - Benzimidazilate, - Anisotriazine, - Ethylhexyl triazone, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, - 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino diisobutyl benzalmalonate) -s- triazine. - Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, - Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof. <Desc / Clms Page number 17> 17. Composition according to claim 14, in which the inorganic UV filter is chosen from pigments or nanopigments of metallic oxides coated or not. 18. Composition according to claim 17, in which the inorganic UV filter is chosen from nanopigments, coated or uncoated, of titanium oxide, iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium. 19. Composition according to any one of claims 14 to 18, in which the UV filters are present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.2 at 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex 21. Composition according to claim 20, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion. 22. Composition according to claim 20 or 21, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream, a milk, a gel, a cream gel, a lotion, a powder , solid stick, aerosol foam or spray. 23. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that it also comprises conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants , free anti-radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, α-hydroxy acids, defoamers, moisturizers, vitamins, insect repellents, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, anti-inflammatory drugs, substance P antagonists, fillers, polymers, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents, dyes other than dyes of the fluorane type and their salified forms. 24. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the thickeners are chosen from crosslinked polyacrylic acids; xanthan gums; guar gums; modified or unmodified celluloses; polyacrylamides; polymers of acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS). 25. The composition of claim 23 containing caramel as an additional color. 26. Cosmetic treatment method for artificially tanning and / or browning the skin, characterized in that it consists in applying to the latter an effective amount of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 25 .