FR2807655A1 - Composition useful for the prevention and treatment of cutaneous wrinkles comprises extracts of leucocyanadines, triterpenes and fish cartilage - Google Patents

Abstract

A natural extract based composition comprises leucocyanadines as extracts of Vitis vinifera; triterpenes as extract of Centella asiatica; and extract of fish cartilage (preferably shark cartilage).

Description

The subject of the present invention is the use of divalent manganese salts as deodorant active agents in the preparation of a dipropionally active manganese salt. cosmetic composition, the deodorant cosmetic composition containing these compounds, and the use of said composition for human topical application.

It also relates to a method for treating human body odor comprising applying to the axillary surface, the scalp or the feet an effective amount of said composition.

In the cosmetic field, it is well known to use topically deodorant products containing antiperspirant or bactericidal type of active substances to reduce, or even eliminate, generally unpleasant axillary odors.

Body odors result from the metabolism of compounds present on the skin or scalp, by microorganisms of the resident body flora. The literature provides information on the main types of microorganisms responsible for the appearance of unpleasant body odors, and on the main chemical families that constitute them. Thus, diphtheroids with lipolytic activity appear as the most frequently mentioned types of bacteria, including Corynebacterium xerosis for axillary odors, and Propionibacterium acnes for foot and scalp odors. On this last body region, a yeast, Pityrosporum ovale, also appears to contribute to the development of the odor.

The main families of smelly compounds are short-chain fatty acids C3-C10 (armpit and foot odor); 16-androstenes - volatile sterids in C17 - (axillary odors); and lactones (scents of the scalp). Antiperspirant substances have the effect of limiting the flow of sweat. They generally consist of aluminum salts which, on the one hand, are irritating to the skin and on the other hand, reduce the flow of sweat by modifying the cutaneous physiology, which is not satisfactory.

Bactericidal substances inhibit the development of cutaneous flora responsible for axillary odors. Of the bactericidal products, the most commonly used is Triclosan (2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether), which has the drawback of significantly modifying the ecology of the cutaneous flora, of being inhibited. by certain compounds, such as for example nonionic surfactants, commonly used in the formulation of cosmetic compositions. In addition, the insoluble nature of Triclosan in water does not allow its incorporation into essentially aqueous formulas.

In order to achieve long-term effectiveness, new products with a deodorant action, that is, products that are capable of modifying, reducing and / or removing or preventing the development, are sought. body odor (this definition is given in the book Cosmetic Science and Technology Series - 1988 <B> / </ B> Volume 7 chap.10 - Illc). In addition, products are sought which do not have the disadvantages of the active substances used in the prior art.

In the patent application WO 96/29049, it has already been recommended to use in cosmetics, in skin cleansing compositions, polyvalent cations including in particular manganese, as effective antimicrobial agents on the pathogenic germ Staphylococcus aureus. However, this bacterium is not part of the resident skin flora, and does not appear as one of the main germs involved in the formation of body odor. Patent application EP-713695 describes a process for the permanent deformation of the hair, during which the manganese salts have the effect, notably, of neutralizing the odor of the mercaptans released during the reduction phase. However, this document neither discloses nor suggests the use of said salts to neutralize the odor of fatty acids, steroids and lactones, at the origin of malodorous body compounds. After much research conducted on the subject, the Applicant has now discovered, unexpectedly and surprisingly, that manganese salts divalent, have the property of preventing the development of perspiration odors of the armpits and feet, and the odors of leather without the disadvantages of the active substances previously used in the deodorant compositions, and with the advantage, for some of these compounds, of being water-soluble in proportions that are advantageous and sufficient to be easily formable, especially in cosmetic compositions based on water for human topical application.

This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

The present invention thus has for its first object the use of divalent manganese salts as deodorant active agents in a cosmetic composition. For the purposes of the present invention, deodorant active means any substance capable of reducing the flow of sweat and / or masking, improving or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria. It has the second object, a deodorant cosmetic composition comprising at least one divalent manganese salt and preferably a water-soluble salt.

It also relates to the use of said composition in or for the manufacture of deodorant cosmetic products intended for human topical application.

Finally, it relates to a method for treating human body odors, comprising applying to the axillary surface, feet or scalp an effective amount of said composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble manganese salts" means manganese salts of organic or inorganic acids whose solubility in water, expressed in weight percent of Mn ion, is greater than or equal to 0.3. Particularly preferred water-soluble manganese salts according to the present invention are manganese chloride, manganese acetate, manganese sulfate.

Among the salts mentioned above, it is even more particularly preferred to use, according to the present invention, manganese chloride (MnCl 2).

According to the present invention, the water-soluble salts of divalent manganese, in comparison with Triclosan, well known in the field under consideration, have the advantage of being more effective in terms of the deodorant activity defined according to the present invention, and of being odorless. at the concentrations of use.

The divalent manganese salts according to the invention preferably represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the deodorant cosmetic composition, more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, and still more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight approximately of this weight.

The deodorant cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the divalent manganese salt or salts according to the invention, other deodorant or antiperspirant active agents conventionally used in this type of composition.

These additional deodorant active agents may be chosen, for example, from water-soluble zinc salts, for example zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (more commonly known as zinc pidolate), zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate or gluconate. zinc and zinc phenolsulfonate; other non-water soluble compounds of zinc such as zinc ricinoleate; bactericides such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan), or 3,7,11-tri-methyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol).

These additional deodorant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of approximately 0.001 to 20% by weight relative to the total composition, and preferably in a proportion of approximately 0.1 to 5% by weight.

The deodorant cosmetic composition according to the invention is formulated conventionally according to the form of presentation for which it is intended. It is more particularly formulated in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle which may especially be essentially aqueous, or contain organic solvents and in particular C 1 -C 4 monoalcohols, preferably ethanol to accelerate the evaporation of the product, or propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or their ethers.

The deodorant cosmetic composition according to the invention may also be formulated in water-in-oil, oil-in-water or triple water-in-oil-in-water emulsion (such emulsions are known and described, for example by C. FOX in Cosmetics and Toiletries - november 1986 - Vol 101 - pages 101-112).

The deodorant cosmetic composition of the invention may furthermore comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from fats, gelling agents, emollients, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, anti-foam agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, fillers, sequestering agents, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents, perfumes, dyes, pigments, thickeners, or any other ingredient normally used in cosmetics for this type of application.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the deodorant cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions. considered.

The surfactants are preferably chosen from anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.

The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax or a mixture thereof, petroleum jelly, paraffin, lanolin, hydrogenated lanolin or acetylated lanolin; they also include fatty acids, fatty alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, myristic, stearic, palmitic, oleic alcohol as well as 2-octyldodecanol, fatty acid esters such as glycerol monostearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate. , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, C12-C15 fatty alcohol benzoates (Finestein FINETEX TN), polyoxypropylene 3-myristyl alcohol moles of propylene oxide (WITCONOL APM from WITCO), triglycerides of C 8 -C 18 fatty acids such as triglycerides of caprylic acid and capric acid.

The oils are chosen from animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils and in particular hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated castor oil, liquid petrolatum, paraffin oil, purcellin oil (octanoate stearyl), silicone oils and isoparaffins.

The waxes are chosen from animal, fossil, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes. These include beeswaxes, carnauba, candelilla, sugar cane, japan waxes, ozokerites, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, waxes and silicone resins.

The thickeners, preferably nonionic, may be selected from guar gums and modified or unmodified celluloses such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, silicas such as for example Bentone Gel MiO sold by the company NL INDUSTRIES or the Veegum Ultra, sold by POLYPLASTIC.

The deodorant cosmetic composition may include emollients, which contribute to a soft, dry, non-sticky feel to the application of the composition to the skin. These emollients may be chosen from volatile silicone type products, non-volatile silicones and other non-volatile emollients.

Volatile silicones are defined in a known manner as volatile compounds at room temperature. Among these compounds, mention may be made of cyclic and linear volatile silicones of the dimethylsiloxane type whose chains comprise from 3 to 9 silicone residues. The cyclomethicones D4 or D5 are preferably chosen.

Nonvolatile silicones are defined in a known manner as compounds with low vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Among these compounds are included: polyalkylsiloxanes, in particular linear polyalkylsiloxanes, for example linear polydimethylsiloxanes, or dimethicones, marketed by Dow Corning under the name of Dow Corning 200 Fluid; polyalkylarylsiloxanes, for example polymethylphenylsiloxanes, sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 556 Fluid; polyether and siloxane copolymers, for example dimethicone copolyols.

Among the non-volatile emollients that can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned, for example: hydrocarbon derivatives, mineral oils, fatty alcohols, esters of C 3 -C 8 alcohols with C 3 -C 18 acids, esters of benzoic acid with C 2 -C 18 alcohols and mixtures thereof, C 2 -C 6 polyols preferably chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol or sorbitol, polalkylene glycol polymers.

The amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the deodorant cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used for the presentation forms considered.

The deodorant composition according to the invention may thus be in the form of a lotion, a cream or a fluid gel dispensed in an aerosol spray, in a pump bottle or in a roll-on, in the form of a thick cream distributed in a tube and in the form of a stick or of powder, and contain in this respect the ingredients and propellants generally used in this type of products and well known to those skilled in the art.

Concrete but non-limiting examples illustrating the invention will now be given. <U> EXAMPLE 1 In Vitro Evaluation of Odor Evaluation </ U> Comparison of the Efficiency of Manganese Chloride [(Mn Cl2) (Invention)] with that of the Deodorant Active of the Prior Art ( triclosan).

An inhibition test of the evolution of odors on natural sweat was carried out. The principle of this test is to add the deodorant agent to the fresh sweat, then perform an olfactory evaluation by a panel of experts after 18 hours and 24 hours of incubation at 37 C.

So we took in sauna axillary sweat of several human models that were put together to make a sweat sample. To obtain the foul odor characteristic of sweat, before introducing the active substance, this sweat sample was incubated for 18 hours and then 24 hours at a temperature of 37 ° C. In each vial of active substance to be tested as well as in a control vial (without active substance), 1 ml of the incubated sweat sample was introduced. Then the active substance was introduced into each of the test flasks.

<U> Results </ U> The results were given in percentages of variation (reduction) of odor and hedonic note compared to control sweat without deodorant agent.

For 1 mg of active ingredient per ml of sweat, ie 0.1

Agent <SEP> deodorant <SEP>% <SEP> average <SEP> of <SEP> reduction <SEP>% <SEP> average <SEP> of <SEP> reduction <SEP> of
<tb> of <SEP><U> the intensity <SEP> of <SEP> the smell <SEP> smell <PEL> annoyance </ U>
<tb> (average <SEP> on <SEP> 18h <SEP> and <SEP> 24h) <SEP> (average <SEP> on <SEP> 18h <SEP> and <SEP> 24h)
<tb> MnCl2 <SEP> -43 <SEP> -31
<tb> Triclosan <SEP> -39 <SEP> -27 The results show that manganese chloride shows as much reduction as Triclosan or more, on the intensity and inconvenience of the odor of natural sweat during less 18h. <U> EXAMPLE 2: Determination of the biocidal activity </ U> The determination of the microbiostatic activity of the MnCl 2 was carried out in comparison with the Triclosan (deodorant active of the prior art), by the method of dilutions in an agar medium.

Each of the 2 compounds was presented as ethanolic solution, MnCl 2 10% active material (MA) and Triclosan 1% MA.

100 μl of the ethanolic solution were added to 0.9 ml of agar culture undercooled at 45 ° C. (medium chosen according to the nutritional requirements of the studied strain). After Vortex stirring, successive dilutions, in geometric progression of reason 2, of the solution obtained were carried out using the agar culture medium in supercooling at 45 ° C. One ml of each dilution was introduced into the wells. a microplate (Bottle, 24 wells). Four μl of microbial suspension were deposited on the surface of the agar medium.

Two control wells were also prepared: H20 100 μ, 1 + 0.9 ml culture medium (growth control), ethanol 100 μl + 0.9 ml culture medium After incubation under conditions (temperature, atmosphere and duration) Depending on the strain studied, the Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) is given by the lowest concentration of product that inhibits microbial growth.

Results: expressed in% plv.

For the control cups (H20 or ethanol), the observation of a microbial growth made it possible to exclude the presence of a placebo effect.

MnCl2 <SEP> Triclosan
<tb> Staphylococcus <SEP> epidermidis <SEP> ............... <SEP> 0.23 <SEP> 3.10- $
<tb> Corynebacterium <SEP> xerosis ...................... <SEP> 0.23 <SEQ> 4.10-6

<SEP><SEP> results demonstrate <SEP> that <SEP><SEP> biocide <SEP> activity of <SEP> MnCl2 <SEP> is <SEP> very <SEP> clearly
<tb> lower <SEP> than <SEP> than <SEP> of <SEP> Triclosan <SEP> over <SEP><SEP><SEP><SEP><SEP> tested <SEP> bacterial <SEP> strains > the <SEP> flora
<tb> cutaneous <SEP> resident <SEP> and <SEP> than <SEP> the <SEP> deodorant <SEP> efficacy of <SEP> MnCl2 <SEP> does not appear <SEP> not
<tb> directly <SEP> connected <SEP> to <SEP> a <SEP> effect <SEP> biocide <SEP> since <SEP> is <SEP> found <SEP> to <SEP> of
<tb> concentrations <SEP> 2 <SEP> times <SEP> lower <SEP> than <SEP><SEP><B> CIVIL </ B>
<tb><U> EXAMPLE <SEP> 3 <SEP>: <SEP> Spray <SEP> deodorant <SEP> (pump bottle) </ U>
<tb> MnCl2, <SEP> 4H20 ......................................... ..................... <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> g
<tb> Perfume, <SEP> dyes ......................................... ................. <SEP> qs
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> ethyl <SEP> 95 <SEP>% <SEP> vol. <SEP> denatured ........................ <SEP> 100 <SEP> g
<tb><U> EXAMPLE <SEP> 4 <SEP>: <SEP> Water-in-Silicone <SEP> Emulsion </ U>
<tb> Silicone <SEP> DC <SEP> 245 <SEP> Fluid <SEP> (DOW <SEP> CORNING) ...................... <SEP > 6.60 <SEP> g
<tb> Silicone <SEP> DC <SEP> 5225 <SEP> C <SEP> (DOW <SEP> CORNING) ........................ <SEP> 9.40 <SEP> g
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> ethyl .......................................... .................. <SEP> 11.00 <SEP> g
<tb> Propylene <SEP> glycol .......................................... ................. <SEP> 37.00 <SEP> g
<tb> MnCl2, <SEP> 4H20 ......................................... ....................... <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> g
<tb> Fragrance, <SEP> preservatives, <SEP> dyes ................................. <SEP> qs
<tb> Water <SEP> demineralized ................................. qsp ........ .......... <SEP> 100 <SEP> g
<tb><U> EXAMPLE <SEP> 5 <SEP>: <SEP> Roll-On <SEP> Hydroalcoholic <SEP> Transparent </ U>
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> cetyl <SEP> oxyethylenated <SEP> (20 <SEP> OE) <SEP> and <SEP> oxypropylene
<tb> (5 <SEP> OP) ........................................ ..................... <SEP> 2.00 <SEP> g
<tb> Hydroxyethyl <SEP> cellulose <SEP> ....................................... .. <SEP> 0.75 <SEP> g
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> ethyl <SEP> 95 <SEP>% <SEP> vol. <SEP> denatured <SEP> 45.00 <SEP> g
<tb> Perfume .............................................. .............. <SEP> qs
<tb> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP></b><SEP> qsp ..... <B> ....... .............. </ B><SEP> 100 <SEP> g

<U> EXAMPLE <SEP> 6 <SEP>: <SEP> Cream <SEP> deodorant <SEP> for <SEP><SEP> feet </ U>
<tb> Mixture <SEP> mono / distearate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> l <SEP> stearate <SEP> of <SEP> 8,00 <SEP> g
<tb> polyethylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> (100 <SE> OE) <SEP> ...........................
<Tb>

Alcohol <SEP> cetyl <SEP> .......................................... ...... <SEP> 2.50 <SEP> g
<tb> Mix <SEP> wax <SEP> microcrystalline <SEP><I> I </ I><SEP> bee wax <SEP> bee <SEP><I> I </ I><SEP> 1.00 <SEP > g
<tb> polyethylene <B> ........................................... .......... </ B>
<tb> Wax <SEP> liquid <SEP> from <SEP> jojoba <SEP> ............................... ......... <SEP> 6.00 <SEP> g
<tb> Myristate <SEP> of <SEP> myristyl <SEP> oxyethylenated <SEP> (3 <SEP> OE) ............... <SEP> 2.00 <SEP> g
<tb> MnCl2, <SEP> 4H20 ......................................... ....................... <SEP><B> 5,009 </ B>
<tb> Perfume, <SEP> preservatives ......................................... ........ <SEP> qs
<tb> Water <SEP> demineralized .................................. qsp ....... ......... <SEP> 100 <SEP> g
<tb><U> EXAMPLE <SEP> 7 <SEP>: <SEP><SEP> Deodorant Lotion <SEP> for <SEP><SEP> Leather <SEP> Hairy </ U>
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> ethyl <SEP> 95% <SEP> vol. <SEP> denatured ............................... <SEP> 55.00 <SEP> g
<tb> MnCl2, <SEP> 4H20 ......................................... ....................... <SEP> 3.00 <SEP> g
<tb> Propylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> ....................................... ........... <SEP> 10.00 <SEP> g
<tb> Perfume, <SEP> colorant ......................................... ................... <SEP> qs
<tb> Demineralized water <SEP> ................ <SEP> qsp ...................... .... <SEP> 100 <SEP> g

Claims (15)

<U> CLAIMS </ U> 1. Use of at least one divalent manganese salt, as a deodorant active agent, in a cosmetic composition. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the manganese salt is a water-soluble salt. 3. Use according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the salt is manganese chloride (MnCl2). 4. A deodorant cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, and as a deodorant active agent, at least one divalent manganese salt as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the divalent manganese salts or salts, as deodorant active agents, represent from 0.01% to 20% of Active Matter by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the divalent manganese salts or salts, represent from 0.1 to 10% of active material by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the divalent manganese salt or salts represent from 0.1 to 5% of active material by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional deodorant or antiperspirant active differing from the divalent manganese salt. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the vehicle is essentially aqueous. 10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the vehicle further contains organic solvents. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 10, characterized in that it further contains cosmetic adjuvants chosen from fats, gelling agents, emollients, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers anti-foam agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, fillers, sequestering agents, polymers, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents, perfumes, dyes, pigments, thickening agents, or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 11, characterized in that it is formulated in water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water, or triple emulsion water-in-oil-in-water . 13. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 12, characterized in that it is in the form of lotion, cream or fluid gel dispensed aerosol spray, pump bottle or roll-on, under form of thick cream distributed in tube and in the form of stick or powder. 14. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 4 to 13, as, or for the manufacture of, deodorant cosmetics for human topical application. A method for treating human body odor comprising applying to the axillary surface, the scalp, or the feet an effective amount of a composition according to any one of claims 4 to 13.