FR2782923A1 - Transforming cosmetic composition into film, for use as face mask, involves mixing composition with at least one alginate salt, and mixing resulting mixture with calcium salt - Google Patents

Abstract

The process of transforming cosmetic composition, containing at least one active agent, into film, comprises: (a) mixing a composition with at least one alginate salt (preferably in amount 0.5-4 wt.% per total wt. of initial composition); and (b) treating obtained mixture A with at least one calcium salt (preferably by spraying with aqueous solution of calcium salt). The process of transforming cosmetic composition, containing at least one active agent into film. The mixture A may additionally contain calcium ions inhibiting agent (CI), and/or xanthane and/or caroube (sic) gum (the latter in amount 0.05-1 wt.% per total wt. of composition). Initial composition (before transformation into film) is preferably free from calcium ions, has form of gel or emulsion, and has pH 5-9. Independent claims are also included for: (1) Cosmetic film containing at least one active substance and obtained as claimed; (2) face mask consisting of film as claimed; and (3) cosmetic kit, comprising at least one cosmetic composition, at least one alginate and at least one calcium salt, or at least one mixture A (of cosmetic composition and alginate) and at least one calcium salt, to be used in combination, simultaneously, separately or in layers in order to transform cosmetic composition into film, with optional calcium ions inhibiting agent CI present in cosmetic kit or incorporated into initial composition.

Description

The invention relates to a transformation process.

  of a cosmetic composition in a film, such as a mask.

  In cosmetics, the treatment of the skin with an active principle may need to be of short duration, in particular depending on the place of application on the body; if the active ingredient is colored; for reasons of discomfort, for example in the case of an active principle having astringent properties, irritating side effects; or even if the active ingredient is

quickly effective.

  To meet this requirement, certain active ingredients are formulated in such a way that after application of the active ingredient on the part of the body to be treated, a film is formed which, after action, is eliminated by rinsing or tearing off. So we know anti-wrinkle masks,

  exfoliating, purifying, for the face.

  The masks currently available fall into two main types, gels and powders. The former are based on polyvinyl alcohol; the composition is applied and the film is formed only after a drying time during which the aqueous phase evaporates. The second must, before use, be mixed with water and, like the first,

  require drying time before film formation.

  The disadvantage of these masks is the waiting period for film formation which is generally not

less than ten minutes.

  The present invention provides a solution to this problem according to a method making it possible to transform, instantaneously, an active principle or a composition comprising at least one active principle, into a film, such as a mask, thus eliminating any delay in the

film formation.

  The process of the invention comprises the following stages: the composition is mixed with at least one alginate salt, then the mixture obtained is treated with at least

  a calcium salt. By cosmetic composition, it will be understood in the present description both an active principle, a

  mixture of active ingredients, that a formulation of one or more active ingredients, with excipients. The transformation according to the invention is preferably carried out on a cosmetic composition

  in the form of a gel or an emulsion, such as a cream, an ointment.

  To obtain an optimal transformation, the proportion of the alginate salt or salts varies from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition before transformation. The alginate salts are advantageously sodium alginates because they are the most common salts. But of course, the process can

  be used with other alginate salts.

  Before treatment with the calcium salt (s), the composition or the composition / alginate salt mixture may usefully contain a sequestering agent of calcium ions. If the composition initially contains calcium ions, the sequestering agent should be incorporated into the composition before mixing with the alginates, to prevent early polymerization of the latter. If the composition is initially free of calcium ions, the addition of a sequestering agent in the initial composition or the composition / alginate salt mixture may prove to be advantageous, in particular for an easier implementation of the process, condition to be carried out before

  treatment with calcium salt (s).

  A particularly suitable sequestering agent is

tetrasodium pyrophosphate.

  The calcium salt (s) used for the treatment of the composition / alginate salt (s) mixture are preferably in aqueous solution. By way of example, the calcium salt or salts are chosen from sulphate and calcium chloride. Treatment of the mixture with the calcium salt can be carried out by various methods. More particularly, the choice of method depends on the presence or not of a sequestering agent of calcium ions, in the mixture to be treated. If the mixture contains such an agent, the calcium salt can be added thereto by simple incorporation. The treated mixture can then be used in a more or less long period of time, which will depend on the time for release of the calcium ions and therefore on the degree of polymerization of the alginates. If the mixture does not contain a sequestering agent, the treatment with the calcium salt will lead almost instantaneously to the polymerization of the alginates, so it will preferably be carried out after application of the mixture to the part of the body to be treated. A spreading treatment will then be retained, and advantageously, in particular when the salt is dissolved in an aqueous solution, a treatment with

spray.

  In order to increase the tear resistance of the film formed, in particular during its removal, a xanthan gum and / or a locust bean gum can be added when the composition is mixed with the alginate salt. The proportion of xanthan gum and / or locust bean gum preferably varies from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition before processing. The process of the invention is advantageously intended for cosmetic compositions whose pH varies from 5 to 9. Beyond this range of values, in particular at too low pH, the mixture with the alginate salts can

  cause lumps to form.

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic film comprising at least one active principle, capable of being obtained by a process as defined above. In

particular this film is a mask.

  Finally, other objects of the invention are the following: a kit comprising at least one cosmetic composition, at least one alginate salt and at least one calcium salt, and optionally a sequestering agent of calcium ions, for use in combination, simultaneous, separate or spread over time, in order to transform said cosmetic composition into a film; a kit comprising at least a mixture of a cosmetic composition and at least one alginate salt, and at least one calcium salt, and optionally a sequestering agent of calcium ions, for use in combination, simultaneous, separate or spread out over time,

  in order to transform said cosmetic composition into a film.

  In either of the above two kits, the cosmetic composition, the alginate salt (s) and / or the calcium salt (s) advantageously correspond to the

  characteristics mentioned in the present description.

  In particular, if the kit does not include an agent sequestering calcium ions, the composition may have been

  previously treated by an agent.

  In practice, the method of the invention can be implemented according to different modes. Advantageously, the following modes can be retained: a) there is a kit of the invention comprising at least one cosmetic composition, at least one alginate salt and at least one calcium salt in the form of an aqueous solution; the composition is mixed in a dish with the alginate salt; spread on the part of the body to be treated, for example the face, the mixture obtained, in a thick layer; the calcium salt solution is sprayed onto the spread mixture; then, after action of the film, the film is removed; b) according to another variant, the kit of mode a) is available in which the cosmetic composition is previously formulated with a sequestering agent of calcium ions, or else the kit of mode a) is available which also contains a sequestering agent which will then be mixed with the composition; mixing the composition and the alginate salt, and optionally the sequestering agent if it is not initially present in the composition; then the mixture is treated with the calcium salt; the treated mixture is spread over the part of the body to be treated; after action of the film, the film is removed; c) mixing the composition and the alginate salt; the mixture is conditioned, for marketing and storage, optionally in the form of a kit incorporating at least one calcium salt; the user who will have the aforementioned kit, can then use the mixture and the calcium salt in the

conditions of mode a) or b).

  Examples 1 and 2 below describe, by way of illustration of the invention, two formulations of alginate salts and calcium salts, intended for the

  transformation of a cosmetic composition into a film.

  Example 1: Formulation for a film-forming mask Mixture of cosmetic composition / alginate salt Demineralized water qs 100 Caprylic / capric triglycerides 5-15% Mineral oil 4-10% Silicon oil 1-5% Glycerol stearate 1-5% Stearate polyethylene glycol 100 1-5% Sodium hyaluronate 1-5% Vegetable hydroglycolic extract 1-5% Carbomer 0.1-1% Sodium alginate 0.5-4% Carob gum 0.005-1% Xanthan gum 0.05 -1% Triethanolamine 0.1-1% 5 Preservatives qs Calcium salt solution Demineralized water qs 100 Calcium chloride 1-10% Magnesium chloride 0.1-10% Sodium bicarbonate 0.1-10% Calcium sulfate dihydrate 0.005-2%

Example 2:

  Alginate salt solution Demineralized water qs 100 Sodium alginate 0.5-4% Carob gum 0.05-1% Xanthan gum 0.05-1% Preservatives qs Calcium salt solution Demineralized water qs 100 calcium 1-10% Magnesium chloride 0.1-10% Sodium bicarbonate 0.1-10% Calcium sulfate dihydrate 0.005-2%

Claims (19)

  1. Method for transforming a cosmetic composition into a film, said composition comprising at least one active principle, characterized in that it comprises the steps consisting in mixing the composition with at least one alginate salt, and in treating the mixture obtained by at least one calcium salt.   2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the mixture also contains a sequestering agent. 3. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that the sequestering agent is pyrophosphate tetrasodium.   4. Method according to any one of   Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the composition   cosmetic before transformation is in the form of a gel or an emulsion.   5. Method according to any one of   claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the proportion   of the alginate salt (s) varies from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition before transformation.   6. Method according to any one of   Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the salt or salts   alginate are sodium alginates.   7. Method according to any one of   Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the salt of calcium is in aqueous solution.   8. Method according to any one of   Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the salt or salts   of calcium are chosen from calcium sulfate and calcium chloride.   9. Method according to any one of   Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the treatment   mixing with at least one calcium salt is carried out by   spray. 10. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that, before   treatment with at least one calcium salt, the composition is mixed with a xanthan gum and / or a locust bean gum. 11. Method according to claim 10, characterized in that the proportion of xanthan gum and / or locust bean gum varies from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition before transformation. 12. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic composition before transformation is free of calcium ions.   13. Method according to any one of   previous claims, characterized in that the pH of   the cosmetic composition before transformation varies from 5 to 9. 14. Cosmetic film comprising at least one active principle, capable of being obtained by a process   according to any one of the preceding claims.   15. Mask consisting of a film according to the claim 14.   16. Kit comprising at least one cosmetic composition, at least one alginate salt and at least one calcium salt, for use in combination, simultaneous, separate or spread over time, in order to   transforming said cosmetic composition into a film.   17. Kit comprising at least a mixture of a cosmetic composition and at least one alginate salt, and at least one calcium salt, for use in combination, simultaneous, separate or spread over time,   in order to transform said cosmetic composition into a film.   18. Kit according to claim 16 or 17, characterized in that it further comprises an agent sequestering calcium ions. 19. Kit according to claim 16 or 17, characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains   a calcium ion sequestering agent.