FR2777454A1 - Novel homogenous compositions used in make up and skin care products - Google Patents

Abstract

Anhydrous, homogeneous compositions containing a fluorinated oil and a fluorinated wax having a carbon skeleton, are new. An Independent claim is also included for makeup and skin care products containing the compositions of the novelty

Description

-1- The present invention relates to an anhydrous and homogeneous composition

  comprising in combination at least one fluorinated oil and

  at least one fluorinated wax with carbon skeleton.

  The present invention also relates to make-up or care products containing such an anhydrous composition.

  The use of fluorinated oils in the formulation of

  cosmetic positions is particularly sought-after since fluorinated oils confer good film-forming properties and

  resistance to water and sebum.

  However, such compositions are difficult to make.

  due to the inherent incompatibility of fluorinated oils with

  many polar and apolar hydrocarbon compounds.

  Homogeneous combinations of fluorinated oils and waxes have already been made using surfactants, but until now it has not been possible to obtain compositions, in particular anhydrous to

  based on fluorinated oils in the absence of surfactants.

  After numerous studies on various types of compounds, we

  surprisingly and unexpectedly found that by combining some

  n fluorinated oils with at least one fluorinated wax with carbon skeleton,

  anhydrous mixtures of perfect homogeneity could be produced.

  It has also been found that this particular association

  lière could advantageously constitute the fatty phase of various

  makeup and care compositions having in particular an ex-

  texture and gives the skin, after application, a

  great softness and a pleasant touch.

  The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous and homogeneous composition or phase comprising in combination at least one

  fluorinated oil and at least one fluorinated wax with carbon skeleton.

  The expression "fluorinated wax with a carbon skeleton" is understood to mean

  born "a solid compound at room temperature having a melting point greater than or equal to about 30 C and comprising a number of fluorine atoms preferably greater than that of the hydrogen atoms, the carbon skeleton can be interrupted by at least one oxygen atom.

  Among the fluorinated oils compatible with fluoro waxes

  rees with a carbon skeleton, mention may in particular be made of compounds 2 -

  perfluorinated, that is fluorinated silicones.

  By perfluorinated compounds is meant according to the invention, compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted by

fluorine atoms.

  Among the perfluorinated compounds corresponding to this definition, there may be mentioned in particular: 1) perfluoropolyethers corresponding to the following formulas (I) and (II): ICF3 F- (F-CF2-O nC F CC F3) in which: n is 7 to 30; and C F3 CF3 (O-C F-C F2) - (O -C F2) m -O C F3 (II) the ratio m / m 'being from 20 to 40, and

  the molecular weight being from 500 to 20,000.

  Among these perfluoropolyethers of formulas (I) and (II), mention may be made, respectively, of that sold under the name of

  "FLUORTRESS LM36R" by the company DUPONT, and those sold under the name

  general mining of "FOMBLIN" by the MONTEFLUOS Company; and 2) perfluorophenanthrene sold under the name "FLUTEc PC11" by the company BNFL FLUOROCHEMICALS Ltd .; Among the fluorinated silicones, mention may in particular be made of the fluoro-silicone compounds corresponding to the following formula (III): o (III CF. (CF2) - (CH2) l -OCN- (CH2) -Si O- Si (R3) (III)

R. R2

  in which: k is 1 to 17, 1 is 1 to 18, p is 1 to 6, and R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical, R2 represents a C1-C6 alkyl radical or the radical -3- -OSi (R3) 3, and

  R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical.

  Among the compounds corresponding to formula (III), there may be mentioned

  strongly cite: - N- (-2-F-octyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3- aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) methylsilane, - N- (-2-F-hexylethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) methylsilane, - N (-2-F-butyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) methylsilane, - N- (-2-F-octyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) 3-aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, - N- ( -2-F-hexylethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, and - N (-2-F-butyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane.

  As other fluorinated oils which can be used in composites

  anhydrous, there may also be mentioned: (a) the perfluorocycloalkyl compounds of formula (IV) below: (CF2) e (CF- (CF2) pF) (IV) in which: e is equal to 4 or 5, g is equal to 1 or 2, and p is equal to 1, 2 or 3;

  provided that when g = 2, groupings are not necessary-

  ment in alpha with respect to each other; and (b) the fluorinated alkyl ethers corresponding to the following formula (V): CH3- (CH2) h-O- (CF2) i-CF3 (V) in which: h is equal to 0, 1, 2 or 3, and

i is 2, 3, 4 or 5.

  Among the perfluorocycloalkyls of formula (IV), there may be mentioned

  particularly mention perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluorodimethyl-

  cyclohexane, sold respectively under the names of "FLUTEC PC1" and "FLUTEC PC3" by BNFL FLUOROCHEMICALS Ltd.

  Among the fluorinated alkyl ethers of formula (V), it is in particular possible to

  mention the nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name of

"MSX 4518" by the company 3M.

  Among the fluorinated waxes with carbon skeleton, such as

  previously finished, capable of forming an anhydrous composition homogeneous with fluorinated oils, mention may in particular be made of fluorinated esters corresponding to the following formula (VI): CF-- (CF2) c- (CH2) jOC-AC-O- (CH2 ) - (CF2) -CF3 (VI)

0 R4 0

  in which: R4 represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CO (CH2) - (CF2) j-CF3 o A represents an alkylene or alkenylene chain, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, in Cl-C18, c is 1 to 17, and

d is 1 to 18.

  Among the compounds of formula (VI), mention may especially be made of dodecane 1,12, 2F-octyl-ethyl dioate of the following formula: C8F17-C2H - C- (CH2) F1 C-O-C2H 17

O O

  and the C1-C6 perfluoroalkyl tri-citrates, more particularly

  especially the perfluorobutyl tri-citrate sold under the name

  tion of "ZONYL TBC" by the DUPONT Company.

  In the anhydrous composition according to the invention, the fluorinated oils are generally present in a proportion of between and 95% by weight, but preferably between 60 and 80% by weight.

  relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The fluorinated waxes with carbon skeleton are generally present in a proportion of between 5 and 80% by weight, but preferably between 20 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of

2777454

the composition.

  According to a particular embodiment, the composition an-

  hydra as defined above, may additionally contain one or more

  other fatty substances which can be chosen from oils, waxes, gums and / or so-called pasty fatty substances.

  A - The oils of the anhydrous composition can be of

  mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic gine, which may

  be volatile or not at room temperature.

  As mineral oil, there may be mentioned in particular

paraffin oil.

  As oil of animal origin, there may be mentioned in particular the

squalene or perhydrosqualene.

  As vegetable oil, there may be mentioned in particular sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, olive oil, castor oil and cereal germ oils such as

  as for example wheat germ oil.

  As synthetic oil, there may be mentioned in particular: (1) the esters of formula:

R5-COOR6

  in which: R5 represents the remainder of a higher fatty acid in C7C20, and

  R6 represents a C3-C30 hydrocarbon radical.

  Among these esters, there may be mentioned in particular:

  Purcellin, butyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, my-

  cetyl ristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate,

  hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, oc stearate

  tyle, isoketyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, acid-derived esters

  lanolic such as isopropyl lanolate and isocan lanolate

  tyle. As other synthetic oils, mention may also be made of

  isododecane, isohexadecane, polyisobutenes and polyisobu-

  hydrogenated tene as well as acetylglycerides, octanoates and de-

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  canoates of polyalcohols such as those of glycol and glycerol, the ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols such as the ricinoleate of

  cetyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate and diisopropyl adipate

  pyle; (2) fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol;

  (3) silicone oils such as polydiorgano-

  optionally functionalized linear siloxanes, polydiorgano-

  cyclic siloxanes and in particular cyclotetra- and penta-

  dimethicones and organopolysiloxanes such as alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl dimethicones and in particular phenyltrimethicone;

  B - The waxes of the anhydrous composition can be of

  mineral, fossil, animal, vegetable, synthetic or even

  be hydrogenated oils or concrete fatty esters at 25 C.

  Among the mineral waxes, mention may be made in particular of

  microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum and ceresin.

  Among the fossil waxes, there may be mentioned ozokerite and

montan wax.

  Among the waxes of animal origin, mention may be made of beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax as well as lanolin derivatives such as lanolin alcohols, hydrogenated lanolin, hydroxylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin , acids

  lanolin fat and acetylated lanolin alcohol.

  Among the waxes of vegetable origin, mention may be made in particular of

  lies candellila wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax and

cocoa butter.

  Among the synthetic waxes, mention may be made in particular of

  homopolymers of ethylene and copolymers of ethylene and a mono-

  mother answering the following formula:

CH2 = CH-R7

  in which: R7 represents a C1-C30 radical, an aryl radical or

  aralkyl; R7 preferably being a methyl, ethyl, pro-

  pyle, isopropyl, butyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl.

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  It is also possible to use waxes obtained by syn-

  Fisher-Tropsch thesis as well as silicone waxes.

  Among the hydrogenated oils which are concrete at 25 ° C., we can

  cite in particular hydrogenated castor oil, hydro palm oil

  gene, hydrogenated tallow and hydrogenated coconut oil.

  Among the concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C., there may be mentioned no-

  like propylene glycol mono-myristate and my- myristate

  ristyle. As waxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of cetyl alcohol, alcohol

  stearyl, the mono-, di- and triglycerides concrete at 25 C, the mo-

  stearic noethanolamide, rosin and its derivatives such as

  abietates of glycol and glycerol, the sugar glycerides and the oléa-

  tes, myristates, lanolates, stearates and cal dihydroxystearates

  cium, magnesium, zinc and aluminum.

  C - The pasty type fatty substances can be of mid-origin

  mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic.

  Among the pasty fatty substances, there may be mentioned in particular the

  synthetic esters such as arachidyl propionate, polylau-

  vinyl spleen, polyethylene waxes and organopolysiloxanes such as alkyldimethicones, alkoxydimethicones or esters

of dimethicones.

  The present invention also relates to a composition or a make-up or care product containing a composition or

  anhydrous and homogeneous phase as previously defined.

  According to a first particular embodiment, the product

  make-up or care is anhydrous and contains the composition an-

  hydra and homogeneous in a proportion of between approximately 0.5 and

  % by weight relative to the total weight of the product.

  This anhydrous product can be in the form of a stick such as for example a lipstick or a concealer, or in the form of an anhydrous compact such as for example a base of

  complexion, eyeshadow, blush or mascara.

  When the anhydrous product is in the form of a stick or

  of a compact, this can contain pigments as well as

  ges in the form of fine particles having an average size included

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between 0.02 and 50 pm.

  The pigments can be mineral or organic or in the form of metallic lacquers. Among these pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, D&C Red No, 36 and D&C orange No. 17, calcium lakes of D&C Red No. 7, 11, 31 and 34, lacquer barium by D&C Red No. 12, strontium lacquer D&C Red No. 13, aluminum lacquers by FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 21, from FD&C Blue No. 1, iron oxides, manganese violet, chromium oxide and blue

overseas.

  The fillers can be of natural or synthetic origin.

  Among these, there may be mentioned in particular: a) mineral powders such as talc, kaolin,

  mica, silica, silicates, alumina, zeolites, hydroxya-

  patitis, sericite, micatitanes, barium sulphate, oxy-

  bismuth chloride, boron nitride and metal powders such as aluminum powder; b) vegetable powders such as starch, corn, wheat or rice powders; c) organic powders such as nylon powders,

  polyamide, polyester, polytetrafluoroethylene or poly-

  ethylene. These different powders can also be coated, for example, with metal salts of fatty acids, amino acids, lecithin, collagen, silicone compounds, compounds

  fluorinated or by any other usual coating.

  In addition to the pigments as defined above, at least one pigment may also be present and, among these, mention may be made of eosin derivatives such as D&C Red No. 21 and halogenated fluoroscein derivatives such than D&C Red No. 27, D&C orange No. 5

  in combination with D&C Red No. 21 and D&C orange No. 10.

  In make-up or skincare products, the proportion

  in pigment (s) and / or dye (s) is generally between approx.

  0.1 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of these products.

  The charges can generally be present in the

  make-up or care products in a maximum proportion of approx.

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  98% by weight relative to the total weight of these products.

  Anhydrous products as defined above, can of course also contain one or more additives or adjuvants

  conventional cosmetic or dermatological.

  According to a second embodiment, the makeup or care product is a dispersion, in the form of an emulsion

  stable water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W), which is

  substantially constituted (i) of an anhydrous and homogeneous composition or phase as defined above in a proportion of between approximately 0.1 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the

  composition, (ii) of an aqueous phase in a proportion comprised between-

  be approximately 4 and 97% by weight relative to the total weight of the

  position, and (iii) at least one emulsifier in a proportion

  between approximately 0.5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight

tal of the dispersion.

  As emulsifier or surfactant which can be used in the compositions in the form of a W / O or O / W emulsion, mention may in particular be made of silicone surfactants, and in particular

  those belonging to the family of dimethicone copolyols and al-

  kyl- or alkoxydimethicones copolyols. Among these, we can

  in particular the compounds corresponding to the following general formula:

CH, CH3 -CH3 _ -CH- CH3

I''I 3I _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

CH -1 iO io_ iO iO- i CH3

CH CH, (H,) 9 CH,

  _ _O-tC2H4OttCO H, 0R8-R w in which: R8 is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C16 alkyl, an alkoxy or acyl, R4 is a C8-C45 alkyl or alkoxy radical, u = 0 to 200 , v = 1 to 40, w = 0 to 100,

- 10 -

  the molecular weight of the radical -O- (C2H4O) x- (C3H6O) y-R8 being from 250 to 2000, x and y being chosen such that the weight ratio of

  oxyethylene / oxypropylene groups is between 100: 0 and 20:80.

  Among the commercial products which may contain all or part of

  tie of alkyldimethicones copolyols, we can quote in particular those sold under the names of "ABIL WE09", "ABIL EM90" or "ABIL WS08" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, of "Q2 5200'k" or "Q2 3225C" by the Company DOW CORNING and "218 1138" by the company GENERAL

ELECTRIC.

  The surfactants can also be chosen from

  anionic or nonionic surfactants. We can at this point

  jet refer to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRKOTHMER", volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979 WILEY, for

  defining the properties and functions (emulsifying) of the

  surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of this reference, for

  anionic and nonionic surfactants.

  The surfactants of these two groups preferably used in the compositions according to the invention are: - from nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohols, esters of fatty acids and sucrose, alkyl glucose esters, in particular fatty esters of polyoxyethylenated alkyl (C1-C6) glucose, and

  - among the anionic surfactants: amino stearates

nes.

  These dispersions are preferably in the form of creams and can be used as make-up or care products. The products or compositions as described above,

  whether anhydrous or in the form of a dispersion, present

  try excellent cosmetic properties such as in particular a

  excellent texture, as well as very good resistance on the skin vis-à-vis

  screw friction, water or sebum.

  These products or compositions as they have just been described

  above, may also contain one or more adjuvants

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  conventional cosmetics such as vitamins, hormones,

  antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, thickeners

  health, moisturizing agents, humectants, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients. The invention is illustrated by the following examples, the

  quantities are expressed by weight.

  EXAMPLES OF COSMETIC COMPOSITION Example 1: Lipstick A lipstick is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients: - Polyperfluoroisopropylether sold under the name "FLUORTRESS LM 36" by the company DUPONT .....

  .................................. 5 g - Dodecane 1.12 2Foctyl-ethyl dioate .... ..40 g - Perfluorodecaline ................................ DTD: .......... ..... 35 g - Nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the..DTD: name of "MS X 4518" by So-

  3M company ................................................ ................ 10 g - Pigments .............................. .........................

  ....... 10 g Example 2: Stick foundation A foundation is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients: - Dodecane 1.12 2F-octyl-ethyl dioate. .... 30 g..DTD: N - (- 2-F-octyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-amino-

  propyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) methylsilane ........ 60 g - Pigments ..........

  .................................................. .. 10 g -12 - .. DTD:

Claims (14)

  1. Anhydrous and homogeneous composition, characterized in that it comprises in combination at least one fluorinated oil and at least one fluorinated wax with carbon skeleton. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from: a) the perfluoropolyethers corresponding to the following formulas (I) and (II): CF 3 F- (F-CF2-O) - CF - CF3 (I)   n in which: n is 7 to 30; and CF C F3 (O-CF-CF 2) -m (O-CF2) m-OCF3 (II) the ratio m / m 'being from 20 to 40, and the molecular weight being from 500 to 20,000; b) perfluorophenanthrene; and   c) fluoro-silicone compounds corresponding to the form   following mule (III): o CF- (CF2) k (CH2) -OC - (CH2) i O-Si (R3) 3 (III) Rl R2 in which: k is 1 to 17, 1 is i to 18 , p is 1 to 6, and R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical   R2 represents a C1-C6 alkyl radical or the radical   cal -OSi (R3) 3, and R3 represents a C1-C4-alkyl radical 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the fluoro-silicone compound is chosen from the group consisting of: - N (-2-F-octyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) methylsilane, - N - (- 2-F-hexyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) methylsilane, - N- (-2-F-butylethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) methylsilane, - N - (- 2 -F-octyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, - N - (- 2-F-hexyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3- aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, and - N - (- 2- F-butylethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane.   4. Composition according to claims 1 to 3, characterized   by the fact that the fluorinated wax with a carbon skeleton is chosen from fluorinated esters corresponding to the following formula (VI):   CF- (CF,) - (CH2) - O -2 (F-C-A-C-O- (CH2) 9 (CF2) - CF3 (VI) O R4 O   in which: R4 represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CO (CH) d- (CF2) -CF3 OA represents an alkylene or alkenylene chain, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, in C1-C18, c is 1 to 17 , and d is 1 to 18.   5. Composition according to any one of claims 1   à4, characterized in that the fluorinated wax with carbon skeleton is chosen from the group consisting of dodecane 1.12 dioate of   2F-octyl-ethyl and perfluorobutyl tri-citrate.   6. Composition according to any one of the claims   above, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is pre-   smells in a proportion between 20 and 95% by weight compared to   the total weight of the composition.   7. Composition according to any one of the claims   above, characterized in that the fluorinated wax with carbon skeleton is present in a proportion of between 5 and 80% by   weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   8. Make-up or care product containing at least one anhydrous and homogeneous composition, characterized in that said   composition is as defined according to any one of the claims cations 1 to 7.   9. Product according to claim 8, characterized in that the said composition is present in a proportion comprised   between 0.5 and 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the product.   10. Product according to claims 8 and 9, characterized by   the fact that it is anhydrous and comes in the form of a stick or of a compact.   11. Product according to claims 8 and 9, characterized by   the fact that it is in the form of a dispersion or emulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type and contains said composition in a proportion of between 0.1 and 50% by weight, an aqueous phase present in a proportion of between 4 and 97%, and an emulsifier.   12. Product according to any one of claims 8 to   11, characterized in that it also contains at least one pig-   ment and / or a dye in a proportion between 0.1 and 15%   by weight relative to the total weight of the product.   13. Product according to any one of claims 8 to   12, characterized in that it also contains a filler pre-   feels in a maximum proportion of 98% by weight relative to the weight total product.   14. Product according to any one of claims 8 to   13, characterized in that it also contains cosmetic active ticks or dermatology.