FR2777195A1 - Stable water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion with non-greasy feel - Google Patents

Abstract

Water-in-oil cosmetic and dermatological emulsion for topical use contains (wt. %): (1) saturated, branched 20-40C hydrocarbon (I) (8-50); (2) natural phospholipid (II) (1-43); and (3) water (46-85). The preferred composition contains (wt. %): (I) (15-35), (II) (5-30) and water (65-75). An Independent claim is also included for the preparation of the composition comprising: (1) preparing a hydrophobic phase by dissolving the lecithin in a mixture of hydrocarbon (I), and any optional lipophilic components; (2) preparing an aqueous phase by dissolving the hydrophilic constituents in water; and (3) adding the aqueous phase to the hydrophobic phase.

Description

The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions or

  dermatological in the form of water-in-oil emulsions containing liquid branched hydrocarbons and phospholipids and their

preparation process.

  Cosmetic formulations are, in general, intended to provide the skin with substances capable of improving its condition or the

protect.

  These substances are, generally, hydrating, protective, regulating, nutritive substances, etc. They are of very varied chemical nature

  and can be either rather water-soluble or rather liposoluble.

  We know all the interest of phospholipids, in particular natural phospholipids such as those found in lecithins, for certain types of cosmetic formulations such as liposome dispersions. Furthermore, triglyceride emulsions stabilized by

lecithin.

  All these products often leave a judged touch on the skin

  too greasy during applications in the cosmetic field.

  We have now discovered that natural phospholipids, in

  in particular lecithins, made it possible to produce water-in-type emulsions

  oil between water and a hydrophobic phase consisting essentially of C20 to C40 branched liquid hydrocarbons, in particular, emulsions of

  water-in-oil type, water in perhydrosqualene.

  Such water-in-oil type emulsions are remarkably

  stable and have excellent cosmetic qualities.

  Another advantage of these emulsions is that they can be used to convey cosmetic or dermatological active agents, both water-soluble and liposoluble, into the skin and, moreover, have the advantage of leading to cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly pleasant to the touch. One of the essential characteristics of the compositions described in this document is that they are in the form of emulsions. That's why we

  will denote below indifferently by emulsions or compositions.

  Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical application, in the form of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type, characterized in that it contains, expressed as a percentage by weight: - 8 to 50%, preferably 15 to 35%, of a branched hydrocarbon saturated with C20 to C40 or a mixture of such hydrocarbons, - 1 to 43%, preferably 5 to 30%, of a natural phospholipid or a mixture of natural phospholipids,

  -46 to 85%, preferably 65 to 75%, of water.

  The saturated branched liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons used for the preparation of the emulsions of the invention can be any hydrocarbon or mixture of branched liquid hydrocarbons at C20 to C40, however use will be made

  advantageously hexamethyltetracosane (or perhydrosqualene).

  As phospholipid or mixture of phospholipids, any natural phospholipid may be used. However, soy lecithin or egg lecithin will preferably be used. The aqueous phase of the emulsion of the invention advantageously contains at least one C2 to C6 alcohol or a C2 to C6 polyol or a mixture of such alcohols. and polyols. As preferred alcohols or polyols in C2 to C6, mention will be made of ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol. These alcohols and / or polyols and / or mixtures of alcohols and polyols, when introduced into the emulsions of the invention preferably represent from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight per relative to weight

total of said composition.

  The emulsion of the invention may also contain 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight of another hydrophobic liquid compound or of a mixture of other hydrophobic liquid compounds, said hydrophobic liquids preferably being chosen from the group consisting of C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, for example isododecane, liquid esters of fatty acids and alcohols, for example

  example jojoba oil and triglycerides of fatty acids.

  The liquid esters of fatty acid and of fatty alcohol optionally entering into the composition of the emulsions of the invention are advantageously chosen from natural liquid esters. As such, the oil will advantageously be used

  of jojoba. But, one can also resort to synthetic jojoba oil.

  By fatty acid within the meaning of the invention is meant acids containing

from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

  By fatty alcohol within the meaning of the invention means alcohols containing

from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

  The emulsion of the invention may also contain at least one hydrophobic liquid compound and / or at least one waxy hydrophobic compound. More specifically, the emulsion will advantageously contain 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight of a waxy hydrophobic compound or of a mixture of waxy hydrophobic compounds, said waxy hydrophobic compounds being preferably chosen from the group consisting of microcrystalline waxes

  hydrocarbons, beeswax and sterols.

  Finally, the emulsions of the invention may contain various adjuvants, both hydrophilic and lipophilic, conventionally used in

  cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

  Thus, the emulsions of the invention may advantageously contain: from 0.1 to 1% by weight of additives chosen from preservatives, bactericides and fungicides, - from 1 to 5% by weight of a UV or d filter '' a mixture of UV filters, - from 0.1 to 5% by weight of perfumes, - from 1 to 10% by weight of solid particles chosen from

  pigments, micropigments and mineral fillers.

  The advantage of the emulsions described above is essentially that of being able to carry substances both hydrophobic and hydrophilic in the skin. The hydrophilic or hydrophobic substances targeted can be any cosmetic or dermatological agent soluble in water, in hydrocarbons or

in oils.

  Consequently, the invention relates to compositions in the form of emulsions as defined above containing 0.001 to 5% by weight of cosmetic or dermatological active agents chosen from cosmetic or dermatological agents soluble in water, or in hydrocarbons or

in oils.

  By way of nonlimiting examples of these cosmetic or dermatological active substances, particular mention will be made of those chosen from the group consisting of vitamins and vitamin derivatives, trace elements, amino acids, ceramides, sterols, retinoic acid , ecdysteroids such as 20-hydroxyecdysone, 13-glycyrrhetinic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid, urea, sodium pyroglutamate, triterpenes, ginsenosides, acid derivatives

  asian and madecassic, sericoside, visnadine, caffeine, mono-

  and dimethylxanthines, plant extracts, algae extracts, yeast extracts, bacteria extracts, mushroom extracts, melatonin, DHEA, proteins, fatty alcohols, sugars, α-hydroxy acids ,

  essential oils, panthenol, salicylic acid.

  Finally, according to a second aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing the compositions in the form of emulsions as they have been

previously defined.

  This process comprises the steps of: - preparation of a phase called hydrophobic phase by dissolving lecithin in a mixture comprising the branched hydrocarbons C20 to C40 and any other hydrophobic adjuvants constituting said emulsion, - preparation of an aqueous phase comprising water and any other hydrophilic adjuvants constituting said emulsion,

  - Adding said aqueous phase to said hydrophobic phase.

EXAMPLES

  The cosmetic compositions given in the examples below with the proportions of their various constituents expressed in percentages by weight are prepared as follows: 1. The hydrophobic adjuvants are dissolved or dispersed with stirring

  in the hydrocarbon or mixture of hydrocarbons.

  2. Lecithin is dissolved with stirring in the liquid obtained above

  above, heating if necessary to a temperature of the order of 80 C. This gives a phase designated below by oily phase A. 3. The hydrophilic adjuvants are dissolved in water with stirring. An aqueous phase is obtained below, designated by phase B. 4. The aqueous phase B is added slowly with stirring to phase A. Example 1, Dry skin treatment product Phase A: Perhydrosqualene 25 Ceramides 0.5 Vitamin F 0.5 Soy lecithin 5 Fragrance 0.5 Phase B: Glycerol 3 Sodium pyroglutamate 1 Serine 1 Beta-ecdysone 0.2 Parahydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 2: Anti-acne dermatology product Phase A: Perhydrosqualene 20 Transretinoic acid 0.02 Soy lecithin 5 Phase B: Ammonium glycyrrhizinate 0 , 1 Butylene glycol 2 Preservatives p-hydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 3: Anti-aging cream Phase A: Perhydrosqualene 16 Salicylic acid 1 UV filter 3 Egg lecithin 5 Phase B: Vitamin E phosphate 0.1 Dry extract of ginseng 0.3 Propylene glycol 2 Glycerol 2 Preservatives p-hydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100

Claims (13)

  1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical application, in the form of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type, characterized in that it contains, expressed in percentages by weight: - 8 to 50%, preferably 15 to 35%, a saturated liquid hydrocarbon branched at C20 to C40 or a mixture of such hydrocarbons, - 1 to 43%, preferably 5 to 30%, a natural phospholipid or a mixture of natural phospholipids,   - 46 to 85%, preferably 65 to 75%, of water.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said   branched hydrocarbon is hexamethyltetracosane (perhydrosqualene).   3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in   that said phospholipids are chosen from lecithins, preferably the   soy lecithin and egg lecithin.   4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that   that it also contains 0.1 to 15%, preferably 1 to 5%, by weight of an alcohol or of a C2 to C6 polyol or of a mixture of such alcohols and / or polyols, preferably chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol,   butylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.   5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that   that it also contains 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, of another hydrophobic liquid compound or of a mixture of other hydrophobic liquid compounds, said hydrophobic liquids being preferably chosen in the group consisting of C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, for example isododecane, liquid esters of fatty acids and alcohols, for example   jojoba and fatty acid triglycerides.   6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that   that it also contains 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight of a waxy hydrophobic compound or of a mixture of waxy hydrophobic compounds, said waxy hydrophobic compounds being preferably chosen from the group consisting of microcrystalline hydrocarbon waxes, beeswax and sterols.   7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that   that it also contains 0.1 to i% by weight of additives chosen from   preservatives, bactericides and fungicides.   8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that   that it also contains 1 to 5% by weight of a UV filter or of a mixture of UV filters.   9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that   that it also contains 0.1 to 5% by weight of perfumes.   10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in   which it also contains 1 to 10% by weight of solid particles chosen from   pigments, micropigments and mineral fillers.   11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in   what it contains 0.001 to 5% by weight of cosmetic active agents or   hydrophilic or lipophilic dermatologicals.   12. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the said active agents are chosen from the group consisting of vitamins and vitamin derivatives, trace elements, amino acids, ceramides, sterols,   retinoic acid, ecdysteroids such as 20-hydroxyecdysone, [3-   glycyrrhetinic, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid, urea, sodium pyroglutamate, triterpenes, ginsenosides, derivatives of Asian and madecassic acids, sericoside, visnadine, caffeine, mono- and dimethylxanthines, plant extracts, algae extracts, yeast extracts, bacteria extracts, mushroom extracts, melatonin, DHEA, proteins, fatty alcohols, sugars, α-hydroxy acids, essential oils, panthenol, salicylic acid.   13. Method for preparing a composition according to one of   Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises the steps of:   - preparation of a phase called hydrophobic phase by dissolving lecithin in a mixture comprising the branched hydrocarbons in C20 to C40 and any other hydrophobic adjuvants constituting said emulsion, - preparation of an aqueous phase comprising water and any other hydrophilic adjuvants constituting said emulsion,   - Adding said aqueous phase to said hydrophobic phase.