FR2774286A1 - Cosmetic composition with hydrated lipid lamellar structure into which both hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents can be stably incorporated - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition with hydrated lipid lamellar structure into which both hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents can be stably incorporated Download PDFInfo
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- FR2774286A1 FR2774286A1 FR9801306A FR9801306A FR2774286A1 FR 2774286 A1 FR2774286 A1 FR 2774286A1 FR 9801306 A FR9801306 A FR 9801306A FR 9801306 A FR9801306 A FR 9801306A FR 2774286 A1 FR2774286 A1 FR 2774286A1
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 57
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 24
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 17
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 7
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 claims description 7
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- 150000002634 lipophilic molecules Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000001153 anti-wrinkle effect Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- -1 fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
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- BJDAUCLANVMIOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N (3-decanoyloxy-2,2-dimethylpropyl) decanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)(C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC BJDAUCLANVMIOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-GSVOUGTGSA-N (R)-(-)-Propylene glycol Chemical compound C[C@@H](O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-GSVOUGTGSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- DLAHAXOYRFRPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecyl benzoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DLAHAXOYRFRPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- BORJONZPSTVSFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl 2-hydroxypropanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)O BORJONZPSTVSFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- LGEZTMRIZWCDLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 14-methylpentadecyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C LGEZTMRIZWCDLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000050 nutritive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- YPMOZWCBANATQH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octyl 7-methyloctanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCC(C)C YPMOZWCBANATQH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- JZNWSCPGTDBMEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerophosphorylethanolamin Natural products NCCOP(O)(=O)OCC(O)CO JZNWSCPGTDBMEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940081733 cetearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940082500 cetostearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940086555 cyclomethicone Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L hectorite Chemical class [Li+].[OH-].[OH-].[Na+].[Mg+2].O1[Si]2([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]([O-])(O1)O[Si]1([O-])O2 KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008172 hydrogenated vegetable oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000008104 phosphatidylethanolamines Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000021 stimulant Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCO HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims 1
- WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 229960000735 docosanol Drugs 0.000 claims 1
- 230000000887 hydrating effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 239000007790 solid phase Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 229940012831 stearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims 1
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 abstract description 9
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 abstract description 7
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 abstract description 3
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- 235000004032 Centella asiatica Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 244000131316 Panax pseudoginseng Species 0.000 description 2
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- 235000003140 Panax quinquefolius Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-FFHKNEKCSA-N Retinol Palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-FFHKNEKCSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 240000004808 Saccharomyces cerevisiae Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000014680 Saccharomyces cerevisiae Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000018936 Vitellaria paradoxa Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 241001135917 Vitellaria paradoxa Species 0.000 description 2
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000006708 antioxidants Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N d-alpha-tocopherol Natural products OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000008434 ginseng Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000009499 grossing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229910000271 hectorite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 2
- WNIFXKPDILJURQ-JKPOUOEOSA-N octadecyl (2s,4as,6ar,6as,6br,8ar,10s,12as,14br)-10-hydroxy-2,4a,6a,6b,9,9,12a-heptamethyl-13-oxo-3,4,5,6,6a,7,8,8a,10,11,12,14b-dodecahydro-1h-picene-2-carboxylate Chemical compound C1C[C@H](O)C(C)(C)[C@@H]2CC[C@@]3(C)[C@]4(C)CC[C@@]5(C)CC[C@@](C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)(C)C[C@H]5C4=CC(=O)[C@@H]3[C@]21C WNIFXKPDILJURQ-JKPOUOEOSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- WNIFXKPDILJURQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N stearyl glycyrrhizinate Natural products C1CC(O)C(C)(C)C2CCC3(C)C4(C)CCC5(C)CCC(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)(C)CC5C4=CC(=O)C3C21C WNIFXKPDILJURQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 2
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 2
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 2
- LCVHZNSIAYNAGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C LCVHZNSIAYNAGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MWKPHOIHTLQZIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hexyldecyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(CCCCCC)CCCCCCCC MWKPHOIHTLQZIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 240000004355 Borago officinalis Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000007689 Borago officinalis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000009917 Crataegus X brevipes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000013204 Crataegus X haemacarpa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000009685 Crataegus X maligna Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000009444 Crataegus X rubrocarnea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000009486 Crataegus bullatus Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000017181 Crataegus chrysocarpa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000009682 Crataegus limnophila Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 240000000171 Crataegus monogyna Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000004423 Crataegus monogyna Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000002313 Crataegus paludosa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000009840 Crataegus x incaedua Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 240000000731 Fagus sylvatica Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000010099 Fagus sylvatica Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000010469 Glycine max Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 102000003886 Glycoproteins Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000288 Glycoproteins Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 108020005120 Plant DNA Proteins 0.000 description 1
- VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Retinol hexadecanoate Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 240000008042 Zea mays Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000005824 Zea mays ssp. parviglumis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000002017 Zea mays subsp mays Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001476 alcoholic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 159000000032 aromatic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000021324 borage oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940041514 candida albicans extract Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000001783 ceramides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000013339 cereals Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000005822 corn Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000005687 corn oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002285 corn oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003111 delayed effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 1
- XJFGDLJQUJQUEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecyl decanoate dodecyl octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC.CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCC XJFGDLJQUJQUEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003925 fat Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019197 fats Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZZUFCTLCJUWOSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N furosemide Chemical compound C1=C(Cl)C(S(=O)(=O)N)=CC(C(O)=O)=C1NCC1=CC=CO1 ZZUFCTLCJUWOSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005456 glyceride group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940069445 licorice extract Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000008935 nutritious Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N oleyl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003791 organic solvent mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- WTJKGGKOPKCXLL-RRHRGVEJSA-N phosphatidylcholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC WTJKGGKOPKCXLL-RRHRGVEJSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003905 phosphatidylinositols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 235000019172 retinyl palmitate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940108325 retinyl palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011769 retinyl palmitate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004626 scanning electron microscopy Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000011803 sesame oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008159 sesame oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940070720 stearalkonium Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000004936 stimulating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000012138 yeast extract Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous forme d'une phase grasse comportant un ou plusieurs agents cosmétiquement actifs hydrophiles et/ou lipophiles, ainsi qu'un procédé pour la préparation de celle-ci. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a fatty phase comprising one or more hydrophilic and / or lipophilic cosmetically active agents, and a process for the preparation thereof.
On sait qu'en matière de produits cosmétiques, il est difficile de concilier d'une part les caractéristiques souhaitées d'une phase grasse, notamment en ce qui concerne le confort de l'application, avec la possibilité d'incorporer un agent cosmétique actif hydrophile. It is known that, with regard to cosmetic products, it is difficult to reconcile on the one hand the desired characteristics of a fatty phase, in particular as regards the comfort of the application, with the possibility of incorporating an active cosmetic agent. hydrophilic.
Le but de la présente invention est donc de fournir une composition cosmétique qui présente les avantages précités, à savoir qui soit capable de contenir une solution de substance active hydrophile toute en conservant ses caractéristiques cosmétiques de phase grasse, en particulier l'onctuosité au toucher et le confort d'application. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a cosmetic composition which has the abovementioned advantages, namely which is capable of containing a solution of hydrophilic active substance while retaining its cosmetic characteristics of the fatty phase, in particular the creaminess to the touch and the comfort of application.
Or, les présents inventeurs ont mis en évidence le fait que, et ceci de manière surprenante, l'association d'un alcool gras avec un lipide amphiphile dans des proportions pondérales particulières, en présence d'eau et d'alcool, permettait d'obtenir, en combinaison avec d'autres ingrédients usuels, une structure lamellaire lipidique hydratée pouvant incorporer de manière stable une solution aqueuse d'une substance hydrophile aussi bien qu'une substance lipophile. However, the present inventors have demonstrated that, surprisingly, the combination of a fatty alcohol with an amphiphilic lipid in particular weight proportions, in the presence of water and alcohol, made it possible to in combination with other conventional ingredients, obtain a hydrated lipid lamellar structure which can stably incorporate an aqueous solution of a hydrophilic substance as well as a lipophilic substance.
Ainsi, l'objet de la présente invention, visant à atteindre le but précité, consiste en une composition sous forme d'une phase grasse comportant un ou plusieurs agents cosmétiquement actifs hydrophiles et/ou lipophiles, qui est caractérisée en ce qu'elle présente un structure lamellaire lipidique hydratée, en ce qu'elle contient de 1 à 10% en poids d'au moins un alcool gras comprenant de 14 à 22 atomes de carbone, de 0,5 à 10% en poids d'un lipide amphiphile, le rapport pondéral entre l'alcool gras et le lipide amphiphile étant compris entre 1 et 5, et de 0,5 à 10% en poids d'un solvant organique cosmétiquement acceptable, miscible à l'eau et capable de dissoudre les lipides, et en ce que sa teneur en eau est comprise entre 1 et 12% en poids. Thus, the object of the present invention, aimed at achieving the aforementioned goal, consists of a composition in the form of a fatty phase comprising one or more hydrophilic and / or lipophilic cosmetically active agents, which is characterized in that it has a hydrated lipidic lamellar structure, in that it contains from 1 to 10% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, from 0.5 to 10% by weight of an amphiphilic lipid, the weight ratio between the fatty alcohol and the amphiphilic lipid being between 1 and 5, and from 0.5 to 10% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, miscible with water and capable of dissolving lipids, and in that its water content is between 1 and 12% by weight.
Un second objet de cette invention consiste en un procédé pour la préparation de la composition cosmétique telle que définie ci-dessus, qui est caractérisé en ce que l'on réalise une solution du lipide amphiphile dans un mélange comprenant l'eau et un solvant organique cosmétiquement acceptable du type précité, que l'on introduit ensuite, le cas échéant, les agents actifs hydrophiles, et que l'on incorpore ensuite ladite solution au mélange des autres constituants de la composition, de manière à obtenir ladite structure lamellaire lipidique hydratée. A second subject of this invention consists of a process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition as defined above, which is characterized in that a solution of the amphiphilic lipid is produced in a mixture comprising water and an organic solvent cosmetically acceptable of the aforementioned type, which is then introduced, if necessary, the hydrophilic active agents, and that is then incorporated said solution to the mixture of the other constituents of the composition, so as to obtain said hydrated lipid lamellar structure.
Selon un mode particulier des réalisation du procédé, la solution précitée du lipide amphiphile comprend : de 35 à 55% en poids du lipide amphiphile, 30 à 55% en poids du solvant organique, et 5 à 20% en poids d'eau. According to a particular embodiment of the process, the abovementioned solution of the amphiphilic lipid comprises: from 35 to 55% by weight of the amphiphilic lipid, 30 to 55% by weight of the organic solvent, and 5 to 20% by weight of water.
Avantageusement, la proportion pondérale lipide-solvant-eau de ladite solution est 50:40:10, le solvant étant de préférence l'éthanol. Advantageously, the weight proportion lipid-solvent-water of said solution is 50:40:10, the solvent being preferably ethanol.
La figure 1 est une représentation photographique, réalisée au microscope électronique à balayage, d'un exemple d'une composition selon l'invention. FIG. 1 is a photographic representation, made under a scanning electron microscope, of an example of a composition according to the invention.
Dans la composition cosmétique selon l'invention, l'alcool gras en C14 à C22 peut être choisi parmi les alcools myristique, cétylique, stéarylique, béhénylique, etc, ainsi que leurs mélanges, en particulier un mélange d'alcool cétylique et d'alcool stéarylique, notamment celui désigné sous le nom d'alcool cétéarylique ou cétostéarylique. In the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the C 14 to C 22 fatty alcohol may be chosen from myristic, cetyl, stearyl and behenyl alcohols, and the like, and mixtures thereof, in particular a mixture of cetyl alcohol and alcohol. stearyl, especially that referred to as cetearyl alcohol or cetostearyl alcohol.
Le lipide amphiphile est de préférence un phospholipide, tel qu'une lécithine, hydrogénée ou non, en particulier une lécithine de soja ou d'oeuf, une phosphatidylcholine, hydrogénée ou non, éventuellement associée à d'autres phospholipides, en particulier la phosphatidyléthanolamine et le phosphatidylinositol. The amphiphilic lipid is preferably a phospholipid, such as a lecithin, hydrogenated or not, in particular a lecithin of soy or egg, a phosphatidylcholine, hydrogenated or not, optionally combined with other phospholipids, in particular phosphatidylethanolamine and phosphatidylinositol.
Enfin, ledit solvant organique cosmétiquement acceptable peut être par exemple un alcool aliphatique en C2 ou C3, en particulier l'éthanol. Finally, said cosmetically acceptable organic solvent may be, for example, a C2 or C3 aliphatic alcohol, in particular ethanol.
La composition cosmétique selon l'invention peut avantageusement comporter encore les substances suivantes
A. de 5 à 50% en poids, et de préférence de 30 à 50% en poids, d'émollients liquides < à température ordinaire), qui permettent de conférer à la composition son toucher, ses propriétés d'étalement et de pénétration, ainsi que sa douceur.The cosmetic composition according to the invention may advantageously also comprise the following substances
A. from 5 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, of liquid emollients (at ordinary temperature), which make it possible to impart to the composition its feel, its spreading and penetration properties, as well as its sweetness.
Ces émollients liquides peuvent être choisis parmi les esters d'acides gras en C8 à C22 avec un alcool gras en C8
C22, tels que l'isononanoate d'octyle (DERMOL 89), le stéarate d'isocétyle (EUTANOL G16S) ou les esters caprylique et caprique de coco (CETIOL LC), les esters d'acide aromatique avec un alcool gras en C8C22 tels qu'un benzoate d'alkyle en C12-C15 (FINSOLV TN) et les esters d'acide gras en C8 à C22 avec un dialcool en C1-C10, tels que le dicaprate de néopentyl-glycol (ESTEMOL N-01).These liquid emollients can be chosen from C8 to C22 fatty acid esters with a C8 fatty alcohol.
C22, such as octyl isononanoate (DERMOL 89), isocetyl stearate (EUTANOL G16S) or caprylic and capric coconut esters (CETIOL LC), aromatic acid esters with a C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol such as a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (FINSOLV TN) and C8-C22 fatty acid esters with a C1-C10 dialcohol, such as neopentyl glycol dicaprate (ESTEMOL N-01).
B. De 5 à 20% poids d'émollients pâteux (à température ordinaire) , qui confèrent à la composition son onctuosité et ses propriétés lors de la prise au doigt. B. From 5 to 20% by weight of pasty emollients (at ordinary temperature), which give the composition its creaminess and properties when taken on the finger.
Ces émollients pâteux peuvent être choisis parmi les esters aliphatiques en C2 à Cg avec un alcool gras en C8-C22, tels que le lactate de myristyle (CRODAMOL ML) et les triglycérides en C8 à C20, tels que les triglycérides de palmiste en C12-C18 (CREMAO CS 33).These pasty emollients may be chosen from C 2 to C 6 aliphatic esters with a C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol, such as myristyl lactate (CRODAMOL ML) and C 8 to C 20 triglycerides, such as C12 palm kernel triglycerides. C18 (CREMAO CS 33).
C. De 1 à 30% poids de composés lipophiles solides < à température ordinaire), autres que les composés précités, comprenant les alcools gras précités. C. from 1 to 30% by weight of solid lipophilic compounds (at ordinary temperature), other than the abovementioned compounds, comprising the abovementioned fatty alcohols.
Ces composés lipophiles peuvent être des triglycérides en
C16 à C24, en particulier sous forme d'huile végétale hydrogénée (CREMEOL HF62), des cires, telles que des cires de paraffine (CIRE CERAFINE 52-54) ou de silicone (DC 580
WAX) , ainsi que des argiles organophiles, telles qu'une hectorite quaternisée traitée par de la cyclométhicone (BENTONE GEL VS 5).These lipophilic compounds may be triglycerides in
C16 to C24, in particular in the form of a hydrogenated vegetable oil (CREMEOL HF62), waxes such as paraffin waxes (Cire Cerafine 52-54) or silicone waxes (DC 580
WAX), as well as organophilic clays, such as a quaternized hectorite treated with cyclomethicone (BENTONE GEL VS 5).
D. DE 1 à 10% de polymères sous forme de poudre, par exemple de l'amidon modifié, en particulier de l'amidon de mais modifié (NATRASORB HFB, DRY FLO ELITE LL). D. 1 to 10% of polymers in powder form, for example modified starch, in particular modified corn starch (NATRASORB HFB, DRY FLO ELITE LL).
Bien entendu, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention comporte un ou plusieurs agents cosmétiques actifs hydrophiles et/ou lipophiles. Ces agents peuvent être présents sous forme d'associations de plusieurs agents lipophiles ou hydrophiles, désignés souvent sous le nom de complexes actifs lipophiles ou hydrophiles. Of course, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrophilic and / or lipophilic active cosmetic agents. These agents may be present in the form of combinations of several lipophilic or hydrophilic agents, often referred to as lipophilic or hydrophilic active complexes.
En particulier, il s'agit d'agents hydratants, nutritifs, rééquilibrants, tenseurs, raffermissants, antirides, apaisants, anti-rougeurs et stimulants. In particular, it involves moisturizing agents, nutritive, rebalancing, tensor, firming, anti-wrinkle, soothing, anti-redness and stimulants.
A titre d'exemple, on citera comme complexes actifs lipophiles
- un complexe rééquilibrant apaisant, comprenant du
glycyrrhétinate de stéaryle et de l'huile de maïs,
- un complexe raffermissant anti-rides, comprenant un
extrait de Centella asiatica, du palmitate de
vi tami ne A, un extrait huileux de ginseng et de
l'huile de sésame.By way of example, mention may be made of lipophilic active complexes
a soothing rebalancing complex comprising
stearyl glycyrrhetinate and corn oil,
an anti-wrinkle firming complex, comprising a
extract of Centella asiatica, palmitate
vi A, an oily extract of ginseng and
sesame oil.
A titre d'exemple également, on citera comme complexes actifs hydrophiles
- un biophytocomplexe, comprenant de l'ADN végétal
extrait de blé, des glycoprotéines de levure
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, un extrait de tusilage et
un extrait d'aubépine,
- un complexe à effet tenseur retard, comprenant du
polyglycéryl-6-dioleate et des hydrolysats de
protéines de blé de différents poids moléculaires
compris entre 10.000 et 250.000 Daltons,
- un complexe à effet stimulant douceur comprenant du
glycyrrhétinate de stéaryle, un extrait de grains
de maïs, un extrait de levure et un extrait de
hêtre.By way of example also, mention may be made of hydrophilic active complexes
a biophytocomplex, comprising plant DNA
wheat extract, yeast glycoproteins
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of tusilage and
an extract of hawthorn,
a complex with a delayed tensor effect, comprising
polyglyceryl-6-dioleate and hydrolysates of
wheat proteins of different molecular weights
between 10,000 and 250,000 Daltons,
a complex with a gentle stimulating effect comprising
stearyl glycyrrhetinate, a grain extract
of corn, a yeast extract and an extract of
beech.
- un complexe à effet raffermissant anti-rides retard,
comprenant un extrait de Centella asiatica, du
palmitate de vitamine A, du phosphate de vitamine
C, un extrait de réglisse, un extrait huileux de
ginseng et des glycocéramides de blé.a firming anti-wrinkle firming effect,
comprising an extract of Centella asiatica,
vitamin A palmitate, vitamin phosphate
C, a licorice extract, an oily extract of
ginseng and wheat glycoceramides.
Parmi les autres agents cosmétiques actifs lipophiles on peut encore citer des agents hydratants et nutritifs, tels que le beurre de karité, l'huile de jojoba, des céramides, ou encore un mélange constitué d'huile de bourrache, d'huile de soja, de lécithine et de tocophérol, ainsi que des agents lissants, tels que le polyglyceryl-6dioléate. Other lipophilic active cosmetic agents that may be mentioned include moisturizing and nutritive agents, such as shea butter, jojoba oil, ceramides, or a mixture consisting of borage oil, soybean oil, lecithin and tocopherol, as well as smoothing agents, such as polyglyceryl-6dioleate.
Suivant un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, la proportion pondérale des agents actifs hydrophiles dans la composition, est comprise entre 1 et 15%. Celle des agents actifs lipophiles peut varier dans d'assez larges proportions, mais de préférence elle est comprise entre 0 et 15%. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the proportion by weight of the hydrophilic active agents in the composition is between 1 and 15%. That of lipophilic active agents can vary in fairly large proportions, but preferably it is between 0 and 15%.
Enfin, le reste de la composition est constituée avantageusement par des agents conservateurs, des antioxydants, des parfums, des colorants et de l'eau. Finally, the rest of the composition is advantageously constituted by preserving agents, antioxidants, perfumes, dyes and water.
En ce qui concerne la préparation de la composition cosmétique selon l'invention, on peut procéder de la manière exposée ci-après. With regard to the preparation of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, it is possible to proceed in the manner described hereinafter.
On introduit dans un récipient approprié, muni d'un système d'agitation à hélice et d'un système de chauffage, les émollients liquides et pâteux, ainsi que les composés lipophiles solides. On chauffe sous agitation jusqu'à fusion complète des différents constituants, et on laisse refroidir, tout en maintenant l'agitation. In a suitable container, provided with a propeller stirring system and a heating system, the liquid and pasty emollients, as well as the solid lipophilic compounds, are introduced. Stirring is heated until complete melting of the various constituents, and allowed to cool, while maintaining stirring.
On ajoute ensuite les polymères, les agents cosmétiques actifs lipophiles, des conservateurs, des parfums, ainsi que les colorants sensibles à la chaleur lorsqu'une température compatible avec leur stabilité chimique est atteinte. Polymers, lipophilic active cosmetics, preservatives, fragrances, as well as heat sensitive dyes are then added when a temperature compatible with their chemical stability is reached.
Séparément, on prépare une solution ou dispersion du lipide amphiphile, tel que de la lécithine hydrogénée ou non, dans un mélange eau-solvant organique cosmétiquement acceptable précité, ce dernier pouvant être un alcool aliphatique en C2 ou C3, tel que l'éthanol. De préférence, la proportion pondérale lipide-alcool-eau est de 50:40:10. Separately, a solution or dispersion of the amphiphilic lipid, such as hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lecithin, is prepared in a cosmetically acceptable water-organic solvent mixture mentioned above, the latter possibly being a C 2 or C 3 aliphatic alcohol, such as ethanol. Preferably, the lipid-alcohol-water weight ratio is 50:40:10.
On introduit ensuite dans cette solution les substances hydrophiles, en particulier les agents cosmétiques actifs hydrophiles, qui se présentent le cas échéant sous forme de solution aqueuse. Cette introduction est effectuée lentement, sous agitation, en veillant à l'homogénéité du mélange avant toute nouvelle addition.Hydrophilic substances, in particular hydrophilic active cosmetic agents, which are optionally in the form of an aqueous solution, are then introduced into this solution. This introduction is carried out slowly, with stirring, ensuring the homogeneity of the mixture before any new addition.
Le mélange ainsi préparé est alors introduit progressivement sous agitation dans la phase grasse précédemment élaborée. The mixture thus prepared is then introduced gradually with stirring into the previously developed fatty phase.
On obtient ainsi une composition présentant une structure lamellaires, telle que montrée sur la photographie de la figure 1, obtenue par microscopie électronique à balayage à partir de la composition B décrite ci-dessous, après traitement par la technique dite de cryofracture. A composition having a lamellar structure, as shown in the photograph of FIG. 1, obtained by scanning electron microscopy from composition B described below, after treatment with the so-called cryofracture technique, is thus obtained.
Cette structure apparaît clairement sur cette représentation de la figure 1 sous forme de plaques superposées.This structure appears clearly in this representation of FIG. 1 in the form of superposed plates.
Enfin, et à titre d'exemple, on a réalisé les deux compositions cosmétiques A et B ayant comme teneur en eau finale respectivement 1,7 % en poids et 9,28 en poids. Finally, and by way of example, the two cosmetic compositions A and B were produced having a final water content of 1.7% by weight and 9.28 by weight, respectively.
Ces compositions A et B sont en pratique associées pour le soin cosmétique du contour des yeux. These compositions A and B are in practice associated for the cosmetic care of the eye contour.
Exemple de compositions selon l'invention
COMPOSITION
A B
Alcool gras 5,2 3
alcool stéarylique 0 3
alcool cétylique 5,2 0
Lipide amphiphile 2 6
sous forme de solution hydro
alcoolique de lécithine
(lécithine-éthanol-eau : 50-40-10) 2 6
Emollients liquides 43,75 40,7
coco-caprylate/caprate 13 15
benzoate d'alkyle C12-C15 10,3 10,6
isononanoate d'octyle 12 6,5
dicaprate de néopentylglycol 6,45 4,6
stéarate d'iso-cétyle 2 4
Emollients pâteux 6,5 6
lactate de myristyle 4 4
glycéride de palmiste 2,5 2
Composés lipophiles solides (autres
qu'alcools gras) 22,5 16,65
triglycérides C16-C24 14 10,65
cire de paraffine 4,5 3
hectorite stéaralkonium 4 3
Poudre polymérique 7 7
amidon modifié 7 7
Complexes actifs lipophiles 3,7 0
complexe rééquilibrant apaisant 2,1 0
complexe raffermissant anti-rides 1,6 0
Actifs lipophiles (autres) 6,25 5,25
agents hydratants et nutritifs
(beurre de karité, huile de jojoba,
mélange : lécithine + huile de
bourrache + huile de soja + tocophérol, ) 5,25 5,25
agent lissant (polyglycéryl-6
dioléate) 1 0
Complexes actifs hydrophiles 2 14,2
biophytocomplexe 2 2,5
complexe tenseur effet retard 0 6,6
complexe stimulant douceur retard 0 2,6
complexe raffermissant spécifique
retard 0 2,5 eau+conservateurs, anti-oxydants, parfum, colorants, qsp : 100 qsp :100
Compte tenu de ce qui précède, on constate que la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est bien capable de contenir une substance active hydrophile, tout en conservant ses caractéristiques cosmétiques de phase grasse, en particulier l'onctuosité et le confort d'application.Example of compositions according to the invention
COMPOSITION
AB
Fatty alcohol 5.2 3
stearyl alcohol 0 3
cetyl alcohol 5.2 0
Amphiphilic lipid 2 6
as a hydro solution
alcoholic lecithin
(lecithin-ethanol-water: 50-40-10) 2 6
Liquid emollients 43.75 40.7
coco-caprylate / caprate 13 15
C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 10.3 10.6
octyl isononanoate 12 6.5
neopentylglycol dicaprate 6.45 4.6
iso-cetyl stearate 2 4
Paste emollients 6.5 6
myristyl lactate 4 4
glyceride of palm kernel 2,5 2
Solid lipophilic compounds (other
as fatty alcohols) 22.5 16.65
triglycerides C16-C24 14 10.65
paraffin wax 4.5 3
hectorite stearalkonium 4 3
Polymeric powder 7 7
modified starch 7 7
Lipophilic Active Complexes 3.7 0
soothing rebalancing complex 2.1 0
firming anti-wrinkle complex 1.6 0
Lipophilic active substances, other 6.25 5.25
moisturizing and nutritious agents
(shea butter, jojoba oil,
mixture: lecithin + oil
borage + soybean oil + tocopherol,) 5.25 5.25
smoothing agent (polyglyceryl-6
dioleate) 1 0
Hydrophilic active complexes 2 14.2
biophytocomplex 2 2,5
complex tensor effect delay 0 6,6
Complex stimulant sweetness delay 0 2,6
specific firming complex
retardation 0 2,5 water + preservatives, anti-oxidants, perfume, dyes, qs: 100 qsp: 100
In view of the foregoing, it can be seen that the cosmetic composition according to the invention is indeed capable of containing a hydrophilic active substance while retaining its cosmetic characteristics of the fatty phase, in particular the creaminess and the comfort of application.
En outre, les structures lamellaires lipidiques hydratées, également dénommées "phase lamellaires lipidiques hydratées", qui sont constituées d'une alternance de couches lipidiques, organisées en bicouches de molécules lipidiques amphiphiles, et de couches aqueuses, améliorent encore davantage les qualités cosmétiques de la composition, en ce qu'elles apportent notamment une plus grande douceur à l'application et qu'elles diminuent l'effet "collant" de certaines matières grasses. Une telles structure lamellaire est donc capable de contenir des agents actifs lipophiles et hydrophiles, respectivement dans ses couches lipidiques et ses couches aqueuses. Ainsi, elle joue un rôle de vecteur de ces agents actifs après application sur la peau. In addition, the hydrated lipidic lamellar structures, also called "hydrated lipidic lamellar phase", which consist of an alternation of lipid layers, organized in bilayers of amphiphilic lipid molecules, and aqueous layers, further improve the cosmetic qualities of the lipid layer. composition, in that they provide a greater softness to the application and they reduce the "sticky" effect of certain fats. Such a lamellar structure is therefore capable of containing lipophilic and hydrophilic active agents, respectively in its lipid layers and in its aqueous layers. Thus, it plays a role of vector of these active agents after application to the skin.
Claims (17)
Priority Applications (1)
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Cited By (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2813184A1 (en) * | 2000-08-30 | 2002-03-01 | Oreal | MATTE COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OIL AND INERT PARTICULATE PHASE |
FR2824733A1 (en) * | 2001-05-18 | 2002-11-22 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A STARCH AND AN ESTER AND USES THEREOF |
WO2002092732A3 (en) * | 2001-05-15 | 2003-08-28 | Matsushita Electric Ind Co Ltd | Lubricant composition and analysis method for same |
WO2009043341A3 (en) * | 2007-10-02 | 2009-06-11 | Kuhs Gmbh | Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for topical application |
CN115670967A (en) * | 2021-07-29 | 2023-02-03 | 台钜生技股份有限公司 | Lipophilic starch, method for producing same, and cosmetic composition containing same |
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EP0729747A1 (en) * | 1995-03-03 | 1996-09-04 | L'oreal | Use of amphiphilic compounds as thickening agent of non aqueous media and composition obtained |
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EP0729747A1 (en) * | 1995-03-03 | 1996-09-04 | L'oreal | Use of amphiphilic compounds as thickening agent of non aqueous media and composition obtained |
Cited By (13)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2813184A1 (en) * | 2000-08-30 | 2002-03-01 | Oreal | MATTE COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OIL AND INERT PARTICULATE PHASE |
WO2002017861A1 (en) * | 2000-08-30 | 2002-03-07 | L'oreal | Matt cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and an inert particulate phase |
WO2002092732A3 (en) * | 2001-05-15 | 2003-08-28 | Matsushita Electric Ind Co Ltd | Lubricant composition and analysis method for same |
FR2824733A1 (en) * | 2001-05-18 | 2002-11-22 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A STARCH AND AN ESTER AND USES THEREOF |
WO2002094207A1 (en) * | 2001-05-18 | 2002-11-28 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions containing a starch and an ester and the use thereof |
JP2010540574A (en) * | 2007-10-02 | 2010-12-24 | クース ゲーエムベーハー | Topically applied cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition |
WO2009043341A3 (en) * | 2007-10-02 | 2009-06-11 | Kuhs Gmbh | Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for topical application |
AU2008306317B2 (en) * | 2007-10-02 | 2012-04-26 | Lg Household & Health Care Ltd. | Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for topical application |
RU2464011C2 (en) * | 2007-10-02 | 2012-10-20 | Кус Гмбх | Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for local use |
EP3056189A1 (en) * | 2007-10-02 | 2016-08-17 | Kuhs GmbH | Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for topical application |
CN107334661A (en) * | 2007-10-02 | 2017-11-10 | 库斯有限公司 | Topical application cosmetics or pharmaceutical composition |
US10660831B2 (en) | 2007-10-02 | 2020-05-26 | Kuhs Gmbh | Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, to be applied topically |
CN115670967A (en) * | 2021-07-29 | 2023-02-03 | 台钜生技股份有限公司 | Lipophilic starch, method for producing same, and cosmetic composition containing same |
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