FR2762008A1 - Deodorisation of Pongamia oil for use in cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

Process for deodorisation of Pongamia oil (i.e. the oil extracted by pressing or solvent extraction from the seeds of Pongamia glabra as a brown or orange opaque liquid with a strong disagreeable odour) comprises subjecting the oil to steam treatment under an applied vacuum for a time sufficient to achieve the desired deodorisation. Preferably the steam input is equivalent to 0.5-3 wt. % of the oil to be deodourised per hour of the treatment. The treatment conditions are e.g a temperature of 150-200 deg C, a vacuum of 2-5 mm Hg and a treatment time of 1-10 h. Preferably the oil is held under a flux of nitrogen during the heating up and cooling down periods. The deodourised oil preferably has a peroxide index of about 0.5-1.5 meq O2/kg and an oleic acidity of about 1-5 % (w/w). The oil preferably has a fatty acid cut of approximately (by wt.) 10 % palmitic acid, 7 % stearic acid, 52 % oleic acid, 20 % linoleic acid, 5 % linolenic acid, 1.5 % arachidic acid and 4.5 % behenic acid. The oil preferably contains a non-saponifiable fraction of about 2.5 %.

Description

Deodorized Pongamia oil, its production
and its application in cosmetology
The present invention relates to a process for deodorizing oil from
Pongamia and its use as a cosmetic agent.

It will be recalled that Pongamia glabra, Vent. belongs to the botanical family of Fabecaee and bears different names according to its discoverers, P. pinnata (Linn) Pierre, P. grandifolia, Zoll et Mer, Robinia mitis, Lin., Galedupa indica Lamk.

It is a robust tree or liana from 20 to 30 meters. Its leaves are imparipinnate, 15 to 20 cm long and composed of 2 to 5 pairs of leaflets. The leaves are opposite.

The flowers are grouped in axillary clusters located towards the middle of the pedicle. The fruit is a woody pod, 35 to 50 mm long, 20 to 30 mm wide. The flower is flat, leathery, ending in a short, oblique and indehiscent point.

The single, compressed seed, in the shape of a small cross-linked bean with protruding lines.

Pongamia is a more or less common plant throughout Indonesia and is found in wetlands on the coast or at the water's edge. It is thus found throughout India, Malaysia, Japan, Ceylon, southern China.

The plant is used for many of its parts: seeds, bark, leaves and roots.

The roots are used to wash ulcers, teeth; in fart, they are used as local antiseptic.

The leaves are digestive and laxative and, externally, they are used to cleanse ulcers and wounds and to relieve rheumatism. The barks are anthelmintic and used externally in dermatology and against ulcers. The seeds, finally, are used for the oil they contain.

Pongamia oil is used internally or externally.

Internally, it is administered as a cholagogue, stomachic, but its most important use is the local route.

The oil is used in India for a large number of skin problems in cases of gall as an antiparasitic, as an antiseptic in cases of wounds, pityriasis versicolor and herpes rashes.

It is also used to fight against eczema, rheumatism and psoriasis.

Pongamia oil is obtained from seeds, by pressure or by solvent extraction. The oils obtained have the same physicochemical characteristics. The oil is in the form of an opaque liquid, brown to orange in color and with a strong, vireusc, unpleasant odor.

The fatty acids that make up Pongamia oil are
palmitic acid 9 to 15%
3 to 8% stearic acid
oleic acid 45 to 55%
linoleic acid 17 to 23%
linolenic acid 3 to 89/0
arachidic acid 1 to 3
behenic acid 3 to 5 O / o
Some authors report the presence of eicosenoic acid and lignoceric acid.

Fatty acids exist in triglycerides in oil. The unsaponifiable part is present in a proportion of 2.5 to 4% on average.

Besides sterols, such as B-sitosterol, a classic component, the unsaponifiable matter of Pongamia oil contains original substances.

The most abundant is Karanjiine, a furanoflavanoid whose presence was first reported in 1925. This molecule is also present in the roots of Pongamia.

It is a 3-methoxy furan (2 ", 3", 7 ", 8") - flavone. Around the furanoflavonoid nucleus, various minority substances have been described varying according to the radicals carried = Karanjone, Pongapine,
Pongaglabrone.

The second molecule in abundance in this unsaponifiable matter, is a furan diketone -Pongamol which is 4-methoxy-5- (co benzoyl acetyl) coumarone.

Finally, the third chemical family represented in this unsaponifiable material is chromenoflavone with Karanja chromene defined as 3'-4'methylenedioxy furan (2 "- 3" - 7 "- 8") flavone.

According to many scientists, the specific activities of
Pongamia would be due to the unsaponifiable matter and to its original molecules.

Pongamia oil is obtained either by pressure or by extraction using an organic solvent. In both cases, this oil has organoleptic and, in particular, odorous characteristics which thwarts cosmetic use.

These characters are due to molecules of unknown structures present in the oil. Conventional refining purifies the oil from these unwanted molecules. The oil can then be used in cosmetology. But the refining also purifies the particular substances furanoflavonoids, furanodicélone and chromenoflavones. The oil then loses its particular activities.

The object of the present invention is to develop a process for deodorizing Pongamia oil which, while ensuring perfect deodorization of the oil, does not cause any loss of unsaponifiable fractions responsible for these activities. Such an oil then becomes usable in cosmetology.

In accordance with the present invention, the Pongamia oil is subjected to a steam treatment, under high vacuum, for example with a vapor pressure of between 0.5 and 3% by weight of the oil to be deodorized and per hour. treatment, at a temperature between 150 and 200 C, for a period of 1 to 10 hours.

According to another characteristic, the vacuum is 2 to 5 mm of mercury.

According to another characteristic, during the temperature rise and fall phases, the oil is maintained under a flow of nitrogen so as to avoid excessive peroxidation of the oil. Preferably, said oil is obtained by pressure or by extraction using an organic solvent from the seeds. The extraction is made only from seeds of Pongamia glabra.

The present invention also extends to deodorized Pongamia oil resulting from the implementation of the method described above.

According to a particular characteristic of the invention, Pongamia oil has a peroxide index of approximately 0.5 to 1.5 meq O2 / kg and an oleic acidity of approximately 1 to 5% (m / m).

According to another characteristic, the invention has a following fatty acid section
% in Doids
palmitic acid approx. 10
stearic acid approx. 7
oleic acid approx. 52
linoleic acid approx. 20
linolenic acid approx. 5
arachidic acid approx. 1.5
behenic acid approx. 4.5 for an unsaponifiable fraction of approximately 2.5% by weight.

The deodorized Pongamia oil according to the invention therefore finds its application as a cosmetic agent, in particular for its sanitizing and cell regenerating properties due to its unsaponifiable properties and its nutritive, protective and hydrating activities due to its fatty acid composition. .

The present invention will be better understood on reading the example of implementation of the deodorization process below, provided by way of illustration 10 kg of Pongamia oil obtained by pressing is deodorized. To do this, it is treated for 5 hours at 180 "C at 3 mm of Mercury. The vapor pressure exerted is 1.5% by weight, or 150 g / hour. The recovery yield of the oil after treatment is 94.5%.

The peroxide index is 0.5 to 1.5 meq O2 / kg and the oleic acidity is 1 to 5% (m / m). The fatty acid fraction determined by gas chromatography after methylation is as follows
palmitic acid C16 = O 10.5%
stearic acid C18 = 0 6.18%
oleic acid C18 = 1 52%
linoleic acid C18 = 2 19.6%
linolenic acid C18 = 3 4.2%
arachidic acid C20 = 0 1.3%
behenic acid C22 = 0 4.5%
The unsaponifiable content is 2.5%. The analysis is carried out on a thin layer of silica in a mobile phase composed of heptane and acetone (4-1). Pongamol is identified as well as Karanjiine.

The fatty acid composition of the Pongamia oil thus treated is interesting because it is rich in essential fatty acids from 70 to 80%. Among these fatty acids, Oleic acid is the majority. However, it is the least oxidizable since it has only one double bond. The oxidation of fatty acids leads to the appearance of peroxides and free radicals harmful to the skin. It is therefore interesting to have a good balance of essential fatty acids and non-oxidizable fatty acids, which is the case for Pongamia oil.

The fatty acids present in this oil are mainly long chains, 18 carbon atoms, which is classic. fatty acids with very long chains are also found, 20, 22 and even 24 carbon atoms according to certain authors. This characteristic will give this oil a very good covering, protective effect.

Finally, the unsaponifiable matter with its particular molecules presents sanitizing and cell regeneration activities.

Examples of formulations:
Example 1: MOISTURIZING IOUR CREAM - MAKEUP BASE
Deodorized Pongamia Oil 0.5 to 10%
Argan peptides 0.03 to 2%
0.2 to 0.5% pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
Marine collagen hydrolyzate 1 to 3%
Hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated 1 to 5%
Fluid paraffin oil 1 to 5%
Cyclopentasiloxane oil 5 to 12%
Squalane 1 to 5%
0.1 to 0.5% carboxyvinyl polymer
0.2 to 0.5% triethanolamine
Glycerin 2 to 4%
Conservative
Perfume
QSP purified water 100 g
Example 2: CLEANSING MILK FOR DRY SKIN
Deodorized Pongamia Oil 0.5 to 10%
Argan peptides 0.02 to 1%
Sorbitan monopalmitate 0.5 to 2%
Polyethoxylated sorbitan monopalmitate 3 to 6%
Polysorbate 20 1 to 3%
Liquid paraffin 8 to 15%
1-2% caprilic / caprilic triglycerides
Butanodiol 1.3 2 to 4%
0.2 to 0.5% carboxyvinyl polymer
Triethanolamine
Conservative
Perfume
Purified water QSP 100g
Example 3: NUTRITIVE CREAM FOR VERY DRY SKIN
Deodorized Pongamia Oil 0.5 to 10%
Argan peptides 0.05 to 2%
0.1 to 4% polysaccharide derivative
Stearic acid 1 to 3%
Polyoxyethylene glycol stearate 2 to 6%
Vegetable wax 1 to 3%
Synthetic whale white 1 to 2%
Jojoba oil 2 to 8%
Glycerin 2 to 5%
Preservative, fragrance
Purified water CSP 100 g
Example 4: ANTI-WRINKLE CONCENTRATE
Deodorized Pongamia Oil 0.1 0 10%
Argan peptides 0.01 to 0.05%
Palmitate vitamin A 0.1 to 1%
0.1 to 1% vitamin F glyceric ester
Safflower oil CSP 100 g or
0.1 to 10% deodorized Pongamia oil
Argan peptides 0.01 to 0.05%
Unsaponifiable with argan 0.01 to 0.5%
Vitamin A palmitate 0.1 to 1%
QSP purcellin oil 100 g
EXAMPLE 5 ANTI-WRINKLE MASOUE
Deodorized Pongamia Oil 0.5 to 10%
Argan peptides 0.01% a2 to
Vegetable proteins 1 to 5%
Hyaluronic acid (Na salt) 0.01 to 0.2%
Pink juice stearate 1 to 3%
Sucrose distearate 2 to 5%
Caprylic and caprylic triglycerides 2 to 8%
Liquid paraffin 5 to 12%
Polyexyethylene glycol 600 2 to 10%
0.2 to 1% carboxyvinyl polymer
Triethanolamine 0.5 to 1%
Perfume
Preservatives cs
Purified water CSP 100 g
Example 6: BODY MILK
Deodorized Pongamia Oil 0.5 to 15%
Sorbitan ester 1 to 2%
1 to 3% ethoxylated sorbitan ester
Vaseline oil 4 to 6%
Fatty ester 1 to 5%
0.2 to 0.5% carboxyvinyl polymer
Glycerin 3 to 10%
Vitamin E acetate 0.2 to 1%
Conservative
Dye
Perfume
QSP purified water 100 g

Claims (11)

CLAIMS 1.- A method of deodorizing Pongamia oil, characterized in that the oil is subjected to a steam treatment, under a high vacuum and for a sufficient time to ensure the desired deodorization. 2.- Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the pressure  of steam exerted is between 0.5 and 3% by weight of the oil  deodorize, per hour of treatment. 3.- Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the vacuum  is 2 to 5 mm of mercury. 4.- Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that  the treatment temperature is between 150 and 200 "C. 5.- Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that  the duration of treatment is between 1 and 1G hours. 6.- Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that  during the temperature rise and fall phases, the oil  is maintained under a flow of nitrogen. 7.- Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that  said oil is obtained by pressure or by extraction using a  organic solvent for Pongamia glabra seeds. 8.- Deodorized Pongamia oil, characterized in that it results from  the implementation of the method according to one of claims 1 to 7. 9. Pongamia oil according to claim 8, characterized in that  that it has a peroxide index of approximately 0.5 to 1.5 meq  O2 / kg and an oleic acidity of around 1 to 5% (m / m). 10.- Pongamia oil according to one of claims 8 and 9,  characterized in that it has the following fatty acid section  % in Doids  palmitic acid approx. 10  stearic acid approx. 7  oleic acid approx. 52  linoleic acid approx. 20  linolenic acid approx. 5  arachidic acid approx. 1.5  behenic acid approx. 4.5 11.- Pongamia oil according to one of claims 8 to 10,  characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable fraction  about 2.5% by weight. 12.- Use of Pongamia oil according to one of claims 8 to  1 1 as a cosmetic agent. 13.- Use according to claim 12, as a cosmetic agent  with purifying and cell regenerating properties,  nutritious, protective and hydrating.