FR2714082A1 - Method of manufacturing an embroidered elastic fabric. - Google Patents

Abstract

The method of the invention consists of a combination of rigid wefts with other much finer elastic wefts, the elastic wefts acting on the basis of tie points and basting, the density of these elastic threads as well as the length of the basting. of the elastic weft being the determining factors of the more or less controlled elasticity of the fabric always maintaining this ratio over the entire width of the fabric and, once the weaving process is completed, the fabric is subjected to a process which is carried out , at a temperature above 100 ° C, on a "ream" in a saturated humid vapor which acts on the elastic wefts and increases their elasticity by 100%, this process being applicable to the manufacture of fabrics controlled by warp, the threads elastic being in this case applied to the warp in the required proportion and, for a bielastic fabric, both in the weft and in the warp, in the technical proportions studied.

Description

The invention relates to a new method for manufacturing an embroidered fabric,

  provided with designs or reliefs, which may be in several colors, in a single color with different tones or with reliefs obtained by a greater or lesser density of the fabric and, for the manufacture of the embroidered or smooth fabric, of a great elasticity controlled by weft, the rigid wefts combine with other much finer elastic wefts, according to the requirements of the drawing to be made, the elastic wefts acting on the basis of tying and basting stitches, always in the necessary proportion resulting from the technical study of the fabric design, which must be carried out beforehand. The density of these elastic threads as well as the length of the bends of the elastic weft are the determining factors of the elasticity controlled more or less

large fabric.

  In this fabric, in a state of rest and out of the loom, the bending of the above elastic threads will produce a contraction of the fabric and, at the same time, loops will occur in the rigid wefts, under the contractile action of the elastic wefts. who seek their state of rest at all times and form in the fabric the effects of the desired design, both in pattern and in elasticity. When we proceed to the tensioning of the fabric, it will reach a larger dimension in its width which will even manage to reach double its own initial width, which causes the reduction, even the practical disappearance, of all loops, provided that the necessary elastic wefts have been inserted at the same time as the appropriate armor; when the fabric is left to stand again, it recovers the technically studied initial width. As is logical to think, the elasticity controlled by weft can also be controlled by warp; in this case, the elastic threads will be applied to the warp in the required proportion and, if the fabric is bielastic, the elastic threads will be applied, both to the weft and to the warp, in

  the technically studied proportions.

  The current technique envisages the existence of elastic fabrics but all those which one knows are smooth and without any relief and are worked out with machines with circular action to obtain fabrics in tubular form whose structure, design and process n 'have no parallelism with respect to the fabric which is the subject of the present application, which will be manufactured in longitudinal pieces with a view to the subsequent making of the various pieces of clothing,

  liners and many other applications.

  For the manufacture of normal embroidered fabric (non-elastic) starting from a specific design, for example with four painted weaves, in a 1: 1 weft ratio, as specified in the design sheet (we can also specify, in case of need, the rate of 1248 moires of report), o each wire of the card corresponds to 3 armor wires, with 28 passages or picks per centimeter, the ratio being 2 cartons for each passage of the card, these characteristics having results in a normal embroidered fabric and not

elastic.

  For the manufacture of elastic fabric, we first made a pattern with the technical characteristics determined for a normal fabric and, from these characteristics, we change the weaves specific to the fabric to obtain an optimum result for the insertion of some special screens, of the elastic type. Thus, starting from the initial weaves of the fabric, we change these and we also change the pattern by introducing one more weave, which will give the desired elasticity depending on the elastic wefts inserted throughout the fabric, but these will be these , by means of this determined armor, which will act on the

  fabric and give it that elasticity.

  Just as in normal embroidered fabric, in this elastic fabric, we can also specify the rate of 1248 moires of report, where each thread of the card corresponds to 3 armor threads with 30 passes or picks per centimeter, the ratio being 3 boxes for each pass of the sheet, which is why we

  observe that the armor paths change.

  As we have seen in the previous studies carried out, to obtain this elasticity on the base of the weaves, we insert 2 elastic wefts and a rigid weft (non-elastic) always keeping this ratio over the entire width of the fabric so that these wefts elastic completely outweigh the rigid frame and the warp, which will ensure maximum

elasticity of the fabric.

  To obtain the finishing of the fabric, once the weaving process is finished, this fabric already has a determined elasticity in itself, but it is through the finishing process that it will acquire its maximum elasticity and this process is carried out at a temperature of more than 100 C on a "ream", in a saturated humid vapor, which acts on the elastic wefts and in

increases elasticity by 100%.

  As a practical example of making an elastic fabric embroidered among the many and varied fabrics that can be obtained, we will take a fabric with four colors and background or four color tones and background or four different reliefs and background, o the first color has a first weft passage in elastic thread with weaves above the warp, the second passage being in non-elastic yarn with four warps above, followed by a warp below and three chain passages above; the third passage of weft in elastic thread has alternative weaves with the warp above and below; the fourth passage of weft in elastic thread has weaves with the chain, the latter being located above; the fifth weft passage in non-elastic thread has six warp weaves above followed by a

  weft weave above and warp weave above

  above; the sixth passage of weft in elastic thread

  includes alternative armor with chain over

  below and above; the seventh passage of weft in elastic thread will be identical to the first and the fourth passage of weft; the eighth weft passage in non-elastic thread comprises two upper warp weaves, one lower weave and five upper weaves, also in warp; the ninth weft passage in elastic thread will be carried out in the same way as the third weft passage; the tenth frame passage in elastic thread will be identical to the first, fourth and seventh frame passages; the eleventh weft pass in non-elastic yarn has a weave above the warp, followed by seven weaves below the warp and the twelfth weft pass in elastic yarn will be made in the same way as the

sixth frame pass.

  The second color of the practical embodiment includes a first weft passage in elastic thread with four warp weaves above, followed by a weft weave above and three warp weaves above; the second weft passage in non-elastic thread with weaves above the warp; the third passage of weft in elastic thread comprises alternative weaves above and below the warp; the fourth elastic weft passage includes six warp weaves above, a weft weave above and a warp weave above; the fifth weft passage in non-elastic thread will be identical to the second weft passage; the sixth passage of weft in elastic thread comprises alternative weaves below and above the warp; the seventh elastic thread weft passage comprises two warp weaves above, one weft weave above and five warp weaves above; the eighth weft pass in non-elastic thread will be identical to the second and fifth weft pass; the ninth weft passage in elastic thread will be identical to the third weft passage; the tenth elastic thread weft passage has a weft passage above and seven warp passages above; the eleventh passage of weft in non-elastic thread will be identical to the second, fifth and eighth passage of weft and the twelfth passage of weft in elastic thread will be identical to the sixth passage

weft.

  The third color of the practical embodiment includes a first weft passage in elastic thread with six warp weaves above followed by a weft weave above and a warp weave above; the second weft passage in non-elastic yarn comprises three weft weaves above, followed by a warp weave above, three weft weaves above and a warp weave above; the third passage of weft in elastic thread comprises alternative weaves above and below the warp; the fourth weft passage in elastic thread comprises four warp weaves above followed by a weft weave above and three warp weaves above; the fifth weft passage in non-elastic yarn comprises two weft weaves above, a warp weave above, three weft weaves above, a warp weave above and a weft weave above; the sixth passage of weft in elastic thread comprises alternative weaves below and above the warp; the seventh elastic thread weft passage includes two warp weaves above, one weft weave above and five warp weaves above; the eighth non-elastic weft thread passage has a weft weave above, a warp weave above, three weft weaves above, a warp weave above and two weft weaves above; the ninth weft passage in elastic thread will be identical to the third weft passage; the tenth elastic weft passage includes a weft weave above and seven warp weaves above; the eleventh non-elastic weft thread passage includes a warp weave above, three weft weaves above, a warp weave above and three weft weaves above and the twelfth weft passage in elastic yarn will be

  identical to the sixth frame passage.

  The fourth color of the practical embodiment includes a first weft passage in elastic thread with six warp weaves above, a weft weave above and five warp weaves above; the second weft passage in non-elastic thread comprises two weft weaves above, one warp weave above, two weft weaves above, one warp weave above, two weft weaves above, a chain weave above, two

  weft weave above and warp weave above

  above; the third elastic weft passage includes a weft weave above, five warp weaves above, a weft weave above and five warp weaves above; the fourth passage of

  elastic thread weft has a weft weave

  above, five warp weaves above, one weft weave above, two warp weaves above, one

  weft weave above and two warp weave above

  above; the fifth weft passage in non-elastic thread comprises a weft weave above, a

  warp weave above, two weft weaves above

  top, warp weave above, two weft weaves above, warp weave above, two

  weft weave above, warp weave above

  top and weft weave above; the sixth elastic weft passage includes three warp weaves above, one weft weave above, five

  warp weave above, weft weave above

  top and two chain armor above; the seventh passage of weft in elastic thread will be identical to the sixth passage of weft; the eighth weft passage in non-elastic thread will be identical to the second weft passage; the ninth weft passage in elastic thread will be identical to the third weft passage; the tenth frame passage in elastic thread will be identical to the third and ninth frame passage; the eleventh passage of weft in non-elastic thread will be identical to

  sixth and seventh passages of the frame.

  The bottom of the embroidered fabric of the practical embodiment includes a first weft passage in elastic thread with six warp weaves above, a weft weave above, seven warp weaves above, a weft weave above top and chain weave above; the second weft passage in non-elastic thread will be identical to the first weft passage; the third passage of weft in elastic thread comprises alternative weaves above and below the warp; the fourth elastic weft passage includes five warp weaves above, one weft weave above, seven warp weaves above, one weft weave above and two warp weaves above; the fifth weft pass in non-elastic thread will be identical to the fourth weft pass; the sixth passage of weft in elastic thread comprises alternative weaves below and above the warp; the seventh elastic thread weft passage includes four warp weaves above, one weft weave above, seven warp weaves above, one weft weave above and three warp weaves above; the eighth weft passage in non-elastic thread will be identical to the seventh weft passage; the ninth weft passage in elastic thread will be identical to the third weft passage; the tenth frame passage

  in elastic thread has three chain weaves at-

  above, one weft weave above, seven warp weaves above, one weft weave above and four warp weaves above; the eleventh weft passage in non-elastic thread will be identical to the tenth weft passage; the twelfth weft passage in elastic thread will be identical to the sixth weft passage; the thirteenth elastic weft passage includes two warp weaves above, one weft weave above, seven warp weaves above, one weft weave above and five warp weaves above; the fourteenth weft passage in non-elastic thread will be identical to the thirteenth weft passage; the fifteenth passage of weft in elastic thread will be identical to the third and ninth passage of weft; the sixteenth elastic weft passage includes

  warp weave above, weft weave above

  above, seven warp weaves above, one weft weave above and six warp weaves above; the seventeenth passage of weft in non-elastic thread will be identical to the sixteenth passage of weft; the eighteenth passage of weft in elastic thread will be identical to the sixth and twelfth passage of weft; the nineteenth elastic thread weft passage comprises a weft weave above, seven warp weaves above, a weft weave above and seven warp weaves above; the twentieth frame passage in non-elastic thread will be identical to the nineteenth frame passage; the twenty-first frame pass will be identical to the third, ninth and fifteenth frame pass; the twenty-second weft thread passage includes seven warp weaves above, one weft weave above, seven warp weaves above and one weft weave above; the twenty-third weft passage in non-elastic thread will be identical to the twenty-second weft passage and the twenty-fourth weft passage in elastic thread will be identical to the sixth, twelfth and eighteenth

weft passage.

  The weaves between weft and warp, both in non-elastic and elastic threads, will be made in the appropriate proportion to obtain sufficient elasticity and recovery of the fabric, the number of elastic basting being in any case variable according to

the characteristics of the fabric.

  Once the weaving process is completed by the process which is the subject of the invention, and the fabric being provided with a determined elasticity, it will be finished to obtain the maximum elasticity. This process is carried out at a temperature of more than 1C0 C on "oar" saturated with wet steam which acts on the

  elastic wefts and increases its elasticity by 100%.

  Considering that the characteristics of the process for manufacturing the embroidered elastic fabric according to the present invention have been sufficiently described, it only remains to record the possibility that the different parts which compose it can be produced in a variety of suitable materials. in each case and adopt various drawings and figures by varying the number of elastic fibers compared to rigid fibers to obtain adequate elasticity, and also the possibility of introducing into its constitution the variations of constructive type that practice would recommend, provided that these are not likely to alter the essential points which are the subject

of this application.

  Furthermore, the present invention also relates to the embroidered elastic fabric obtained by placing

  work of the process described above.

Claims (4)

  1. A method of manufacturing an embroidered elastic fabric, characterized in that, for the manufacture of embroidered or smooth fabric with high elasticity controlled by weft, the rigid wefts are combined with other much finer elastic wefts, according to the needs of the drawing to be made, the elastic wefts acting on the basis of ligature and basting stitches, the density of these elastic threads as well as the length of the bends of the elastic weft constituting the determining factors of the greater or lesser controlled elasticity of the fabric, and to obtain this elasticity on the base of the weaves, we insert, for example, two elastic wefts and one rigid, non-elastic, always keeping this ratio over the entire width of the fabric, so that these elastic wefts completely take over the rigid frame and the warp for   thus obtaining the maximum elasticity of the fabric.   2. A method of manufacturing an embroidered elastic fabric according to the preceding claim, characterized in that to obtain the finishing of the fabric, once the weaving process is completed, the fabric will be subjected to a process carried out at a temperature higher of 100 C on a "ream", in a saturated humid vapor, which acts on the elastic wefts elasticity of 100%.   3. Method of manufacturing an elastic fabric   embroidered according to one of the preceding claims,   characterized by the fact that its elasticity can be controlled by the chain, the elastic threads in this case being applied to the chain in the required proportion and, in the case of manufacture of a bielastic fabric, the elastic threads will be applied, both in the weft that in the warp, in technical proportions studied.   4. Embroidered elastic fabric, characterized in that it is obtained by implementing the method according to   one of the preceding claims.