FR2706296A1 - A hair gloss cosmetic composition containing a polyalkylarylsiloxane or hydroalkyl functional polyorganosiloxane oil and a cationic cellulose ether. - Google Patents

Abstract

The composition comprises in an aqueous medium: a polyalkylarylsiloxane or polyorganosiloxane oil containing a hydroxyalkyl function, a foaming agent chosen from cationic cellulose ethers, the weight ratio between the silicone oil and the cationic cellulose ether being between 8 and 100. Application to hair care.

Description

Cosmetic hair gloss composition containing an oil of

  polyalkylarylsiloxane or functional polyorganosiloxane

  hydroxyalkyl and a cationic cellulose ether.

  The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition of gloss based on polyalkylarylsiloxane oil or hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxane and a cationic cellulose ether in the form of a foam, and a

  hair treatment method with said composition.

  Polyalkylarylsiloxane oils and those of hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxane are known in the field of hair cosmetics and have been used as conditioning agents for the hair, in particular to obtain shiny hair. These are essentially polyphenylmethylsiloxane or polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane oils and γ-hydroxypropyl-functional polydimethylsiloxane oils present in cosmetic compositions which are generally applied to the hair in the form of gels or packaged in aerosols or

  flasks pumps to form sprays.

  In particular, patent application EP-A-0351 297 describes hair cosmetic hair compositions containing, as conditioning agents, hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes and in particular γ-hydroxypropyl functional polydimethylsiloxanes, in the form of gels or sprays. . These gloss compositions in the form of gels or spray have as

  main defect to confer a greasy effect to the hair.

  It would therefore be desirable to provide a hair cosmetic composition of gloss that imparts shine to the hair

  to that of known compositions but with a less greasy effect.

  The Applicant has found that by presenting the hair cosmetic composition of gloss in the form of a foam by using, as foaming agent, particular cationic cellulose ethers, a cosmetic hair gloss composition was obtained which makes it possible to regulate the amount of silicone oil deposited. to reduce the greasy effect on the hair while ensuring a good distribution of the application and avoiding the wet touch of the hair. Cationic cellulose ethers providing aqueous solutions having improved viscosity and foaming properties are described in European Patent Application EP-A-0189 935. These cationic cellulosic ethers which have a hydrophobic-substituted quaternary nitrogen have been found to be useful particularly suitable for the formulation of skin conditioning foam, skin cream, conditioning shampoo, conditioners of hair, lotions for

  hands, aftershave gels and bubble baths.

  In the article entitled "a new cationic cellulosic surfactant-surfactant (a New Surface Active Cationic Cellulosic Polymer)" published in the journal COSMETICS & TOILETRIES volume 100, July 1985, pages 41 to 47, E. DESMOND GODDARD & DAVID B. BRAUN have shown that a cationic cellulose ether as described in the patent application EP-0 189 935, and available from UNION CARBIDE under the trademark QUATRISOFT LM200, is particularly suitable for the formulation of aerosol foams

  for the treatment of hair and skin.

  The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a hair cosmetic composition of gloss, in the form of a mousse, which when it is applied to hair, preferably to dry hair, gives the hair a gloss at least similar to the gloss compositions. of the prior art, with a bold effect

  less and avoiding a wet touch of hair.

  The subject of the invention is also a method of treatment

  cosmetic hair using these compositions.

  Other objects of the invention will appear on reading the

  description and examples that follow.

  The main subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic hair gloss composition, in the form of a foam, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one silicone oil chosen from polyalkylarylsiloxanes and hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes; at least one foaming agent for the silicone oil chosen from cationic cellulose ethers corresponding to the formula: xr HO

C HOO H (

HO XOH CH3

O

  CH2 -4 2 CH2 - CH2CH-CH2 - N-R (A) T]

  Wherein R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, A 'is an anion or a mixture of anions, v is equal to at the valence of A, n is an integer from about 50 to about 20000, preferably from about 100 to about 6000 and more preferably from about 250 to about 4000, where x is an integer from 0 to about 6, and y is an integer from O to O. and 3, preferably between 0 and 2, with the proviso that the cationic substitution ratio, CS, is greater than 0, the weight ratio of the silicone oil to the cellulose ether

  cationic being between 8 and 100 and preferably between 15 and 50.

  In a form recommended, the composition according to the invention is aerosolized to form a foam after expansion to

  air, said composition further containing a propellant.

  The silicone oils used as glossing agents in the compositions of the present invention are well known in the art and are commercially available. These oils are polyalkylarylsiloxane oils or polyorganosiloxane oils with

hydroxyalkyl function.

  The polyalkylarylsiloxane oils suitable for the present invention are polydimethyldiphenylsiloxane oils and polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils. Among the polyalkylarylsiloxanes recommended, mention may be made of the polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes sold by the company RHENE-POULENC under the name SILBIONE and the polyphenylmethylsiloxanes sold by the company

  GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ABIL AV20-200-350-1000.

  The hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes suitable for the present invention, as well as their methods of preparation, are

  particularly described in the European application EP-A-0351 297.

  More specifically, the hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes suitable for the compositions of the present invention have the following formula:

R

  (R ') 3 Si O-r Si -O-Si (R 1) 2 Si (R') 3 R 1 OH in which the radicals R 1, which may be identical or different, are chosen from methyl and phenyl radicals, 60 mol% at at least one of the radicals R 1 being methyl radicals, the radical R 2 is a divalent linear or branched hydrocarbon alkylene chain containing from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, p is a number between 1 and 30 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 20 inclusive; and

  q is a number between 1 and 120 inclusive.

  The hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxane useful in the

  The present invention may be an alternating or random copolymer.

  Among the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes which are particularly recommended for the present invention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II) above in which: R2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon divalent alkylene chain containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and, more particularly, a trimethylene chain:

  -CH2CH2CH2- or a methyl-2-trimethylene linkage: -CH2CH (CH3) CH2-.

  Among the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes of formula (I), it is preferred to use those whose molar mass in number is between 600 and 10,000. Hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes of formula (II) more particularly recommended are represented by products of molar mass. in number between 1000 and 10000, for which p is between 1 and 5 and q is between 10 and 100. These hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes of formula (H) are known in the industry and can be prepared according to the known processes. of the prior art such as those described in French Patent No. 8516334 or the application

EP-A-0 351 297.

  Processes for the preparation of the hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes of formula (11) are also described in detail in

  patents US-A-2,970,150 and 4,160,775.

  It is particularly recommended to use in the present invention the γ-hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes and

  especially γ-hydroxypropyl polydimethylsiloxanes.

  Such polydimethylsiloxane oils with a y-function

  hydroxypropyl are also commercially available, in particular from Rhône Poulenc under the brand name

SILBIONE.

  The compositions according to the present invention contain, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, with respect to the total weight of the composition, 6 to 30%, preferably 10 to 20% of silicone oil.

serving as a brightening agent.

  The cationic cellulose ethers used as foaming agent in the compositions of the present invention are known and are described as well as their methods of preparation in the application

EP-0189 935.

  In formula (I) defined above, A is an anion, including

mixtures of anions.

  Among the anions A, suitable for the present invention include anions chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, methylsulfate, sulfonate, nitrate, phosphate and acetate. Monovalent anions are recommended,

  in particular halogens, and more particularly chloride.

  Preferred compounds are those in which R represents the

lauryl radical.

  The number of recurring units of cellulose, defined by n in formula (I), is usually between about 50 and 20000, preferably between 100 and 6000 and better still between 250 and 4000. The corresponding molar masses of the cationic cellulose polyether are

  generally between several thousand and several millions.

  The degree of etherification due to the oxyethylene substituents, as defined by x in the formula (I), varies from 0 to 6, that is to say x is a

integer from 0 to 6.

  The total degree of etherification is defined as the average number of moles provided by the etherifying agent per mole of recurring cellulose unit. The total etherification rate, as defined, is usually greater than 0, preferably from about 1.2 to about 4.5

  and more preferably from about 1.8 to about 3.6.

  The number of quaternary nitrogen atoms per substituent, defined by y in the formula (I), is between 0 and 3, and preferably between 0 and 2. The quaternization (or cationic substitution) level, CS, is defined as the molar average of the quaternary nitrogen atoms per mole of recurring cellulose unit. The cationic substitution rate is greater than 0, preferably less than 1 and more preferably between 0.01 and 0.6. For more details on the cationic cellulose ethers suitable in the present invention and their processes of preparation, see European Patent EP-A-0189 935. A cationic cellulose ether which is particularly recommended is a hydroxyethylcellulose ether corresponding to formula (I) for which the radical R is the lauryl radical and the anion is CI. Such a cationic cellulose ether recommended is sold commercially by

  the company UNION CARBIDE under the brand QUATRISOFT LM 200.

  The cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention contain, relative to the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.2 to 1% of cationic cellulose ether corresponding to the

formula (I).

  According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the silicone and the cationic cellulose ether defined

above, a thickener.

  The cellulosic derivatives, such as methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum or its derivatives, polymers and copolymers of cellulose, may be used as thickeners in the compositions of the present invention. acrylic acid, cross-linked or otherwise, ethylene / maleic anhydride copolymers, crosslinked copolymers of methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride, xanthan gum, and scleroglucans. The composition can also be thickened by using the product resulting from the ionic interaction of a cationic polymer constituted by a cellulose copolymer or a cellulose derivative grafted with a salt of a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and a polymer. carboxylic anionic having an absolute capillary viscosity in dimethylformamide or methanol, at a concentration of 5% and at 30 C, less than or equal to 10-3 Pa, as described more particularly in French Patent No. 2,598,611. especially as thickeners polymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, in particular polyacrylic acid, for example the product sold by the

  SIGMA under the name SYNTHALEN K (e and the ter-

  polymers of ethyl acrylate / methacrylic acid / oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate and more particularly the product sold by the

  company ROHM and HAAS under the name ACRYSOL ICS-

  1CG. The concentration of thickening agent in the compositions of the invention varies between 0.1 and 5%, preferably 0.2 and 1% by weight.

  relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium may consist of water or a mixture of water and alcohol. Suitable alcohols in the compositions of the present invention are lower C 1 -C 4 alcohols and preferably ethyl alcohol. Also preferably, the alcohol is present in the composition according to the invention in proportions of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to

total weight of the composition.

  The pH of these compositions is generally close to neutrality and is adjusted using conventional alkalizing or acidifying agents.

  usually used in the cosmetic field.

  The compositions according to the present invention may further comprise adjuvants such as perfumes, preservatives and conditioning agents such as optionally quaternized proteins, polyvinylpyrrolidone and its maintenance polymers which may be mentioned among them in a non-limiting manner. vinyl acetate copolymer, non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate terpolymer, vinylmethylether / maleic anhydride copolymer monoesterified with butanol, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer grafted onto the polyethylene glycol and cationic agents such as, for example: cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and oleocetyldimethyl chloride

  hydroxyethylammonium and cetyldimethyl hydrogenphosphate

  hydroxyethyl. In a preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic compositions of gloss according to the present invention are in the form of aerosol foams and further comprise a

  propellant, to form a foam at the time of expulsion.

  It is possible to use as propellant all known propellants, such as, more particularly, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, compressed air, volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane, propane, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons, hydrocarbon mixtures such as n-butane, isobutane, propane, with chlorofluorinated hydrocarbons. Alkanes and mixtures thereof are preferably used as propellants in proportions of not more than 80%

  relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The cosmetic treatment process using the compositions according to the invention essentially consists in applying, without this application being followed by rinsing, the composition according to the invention in the form of a mousse on the hair, and in particular on dry hair, in order to improve the shine,

  while giving them a light and swelling appearance, without greasy effect.

  The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without

  however, to be limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE 1

  A hair mousse is prepared having the following composition: γ-hydroxypropyl-functional polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name Oil Silbione 71.615 V500 by the company Rhône Poulenc 15 g Quatrisoft LM 200 sold by the company UNION CARBIDE 0.5 g Terpolymer acrylate ethyl / methacrylic acid / stearyl methacrylate oxyethylenated (55/35/10) in 30% aqueous solution sold by Rohm and Haas under the name Acrysol ICS-1CG 0.3 g MA Amino-2-methyl-2 propanol-1 qs pH : 8 Fragrance, dye, preservative qs Demineralised water qs 100 g Aerosol packaging: Composition above 90 g Ternary mixture: butane-isobutane> 55% - propane sold by Elf-AQUITAINE under the nameAEROGAZ 3.2 N 10 g On apply the foam on wet or dry hair, preferably

  dry. The hair is shiny and light and without greasy appearance.

EXAMPLE 2

  A hair mousse is prepared having the following composition: Polydimethyldiphenyl siloxane sold under the name Oil Silbione 70641 V 200 by the company Rhone Poulenc 10 g Quatrisoft LM 200 sold by Union Carbide 0.4 g Terpolymer acrylate ethyl / methacrylic acid / oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate (55/35/10) in 30% aqueous solution sold by Rohm and Haas under the name Acrysol ICS-1CG 0.4 g MA Amino-2-methyl-2 propanol-1 qs pH: 8 Perfume , dyestuff, preservative qs Demineralised water qs 100 g Aerosol packaging: Composition above 90 g Ternary mixture: butane-isobutane> 55% -propane 10 g sold by Elf-AQUITAINE under the name AEROGAZ 3.2 N This foam on wet or dry hair,

  preferably dry. The hair is shiny, light and without a greasy appearance.

he

EXAMPLE 3

  A hair mousse is prepared having the following composition γ-hydroxypropyl-containing polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name oil SILBIONE 71.615 V 500 by the company Rhône Poulenc 30 g Quatrisoft LM 200 sold by UNION CARBIDE 3 g-polyacrylic acid sold by SIGMA under the name SYNTHALEN K 0.2 g Triethanolamnine qs pH: 7.5 Fragrance, coloring agent, preservative qs Ethyl alcohol 8.5 g Demineralized water qs 100 g Aerosol packaging: Composition above 90 g Ternary mixture: butane-isobutane> 55 % propane sold by Elf-AQUITAINE under the name AEROGAZ 3.2 N 10 g The foam is applied to wet or dry hair, preferably

  dry. The hair is shiny, light and without a greasy appearance.

Claims (15)

  1. Cosmetic hair gloss composition, in the form of a foam, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium:   at least one silicone oil chosen from polyalkylaryl   siloxanes and hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes; at least one foaming agent for the silicone oil chosen from cationic cellulose ethers corresponding to the formula H0 / OH CH3   CH2 -O H2-CH20OCH2H-CH2 -NR (A) CH3 V Y   in which R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 carbon atoms, A- is an anion or a mixture of anions, v is equal to the valence of A, n is an integer between 50 and about 20000, x is an integer of 0 and 6 and, y is an integer of 0 to 3, preferably 0 to 2, with the proviso that the cationic substitution ratio, CS, is greater than 0, the weight ratio of the oil of silicone and cellulose ether   cationic being between 8 and 100.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that in the compounds of formula (I) R represents an alkyl radical having from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, A- is a halide , n is an integer   between 100 and 6000 and preferably between 250 and 4000.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen from   polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes and polyphenylmethylsiloxanes.   4. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes correspond to the formula R 1 R 1 (R 1) 3 Si f 0-Si 0 -Si (R 1) 2 Si (R 1) 3 OH in which the radicals R1, which may be identical or different, are chosen from methyl and phenyl radicals, at least 60 mol% of the radicals R1 being methyl radicals; the radical R2 is a linear or branched hydrocarbon divalent alkylene chain containing 2 to 18 carbon atoms; p is a number between 1 and 30 inclusive, preferably 1 to 20 inclusive; and   q is a number between 1 and 120 inclusive.   5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that R2 is a divalent hydrocarbon alkylene chain having from 2 to 6 atoms. of carbon.   6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized by the fact that R2 is (CH2) or -CH2-CH-CH2-. CH3   7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized   in that it additionally contains a thickening agent.   8. Composition according to any one of the claims   characterized in that the thickening agent is chosen from cellulose derivatives, guar gum and its derivatives, xanthan gum, scleroglucans, ethylene / maleic anhydride copolymers, crosslinked methylvinylether / maleic anhydride copolymers and polymers and copolymers   acrylic acid, crosslinked or not.   9. Composition according to any one of the claims   characterized by the fact that the weight ratio of the oil   of silicone with cationic cellulose ether is between 15 and 50.   10. Composition according to any one of the claims   characterized in that it comprises, by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, 6 to 30%, preferably 10 to%, silicone oil and 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0, 2 to 1% of cationic cellulose ether.   11. Composition according to any one of the claims   characterized in that it comprises by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of 0.1 to 5% and preferably 0.2 to 1% thickening agent.   12. Composition according to any one of the claims   characterized in that the cosmetically suitable aqueous medium comprises, based on the total weight of the composition, 0 to 20% alcohol.   13. Composition according to any one of the claims   characterized in that it further comprises adjuvants selected from perfumes, preservatives and conditioning.   14. Composition according to any one of the claims   characterized in that it is packaged in the form of an aerosol in the presence of a propellant, to form a foam at the time of expulsion.   15. Process for the cosmetic treatment of hair, characterized in that a composition according to one of these is applied to them   any of claims 1 to 14, without this application being followed by rinsing.