FR2472624A1 - ETOFFE REALIZED ON A SEWING-KNITTING MACHINE, APPARATUS FOR INSERTING A DRAWING YARN IN THE WORKING AREA OF THE MACHINE, AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING SUCH A FABRIC - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a fabric produced on a sewing-knitting machine, an apparatus for inserting a drawing thread into the working area of the machine and a method of manufacturing such a fabric. THE SAID ETOFFE SHOWS ONE OR MORE THREADS OF DRAWING 3 LONG LONGITUDINAL COLUMNS NOT RIGHT-LINE AND SHOWING SEGMENTS 11 WHICH ARE ESSENTIALLY PERPENDICULAR LONGITUDINAL OF ETOFFE 1, AND A SINGLE SYSTEM OF LONGITUDINAL COLUMNS OF EACH WIRE OF COLUMNS 9 ROWS OF TIE POINTS WHICH HOLD THE DRAWING THREADS 3 AND HAVE LOOPS ON THE BACK AND STRANDS IN THE LOCATION TO FIX THE DRAWING THREADS 3 IN A COHERENT STRUCTURE. APPLICATION TO THE MAKING OF A KNITTED-COUTURE-TYPE CLOTH.

Description

The present invention relates to fabrics that are produced on

  sewing-knitting type machines such as a "Malimo" machine. More particularly, it relates to a new and improved fabric of the "Malimo" type and an apparatus and method used to make it and which are perfected so as to make it possible to form with a

  the only textile element in the drawings that could not be made

so far.

  The fabrics of the "Malimo" type comprise in particular a layer of substantially parallel warp threads on a

  flexible substrate such as a layer of sensitively

  parallel to each other, the two components being united into a coherent structure by relatively thin threads. If desired, it is possible to obtain a more or less textured fabric.

  less perforated by adjusting the spacing of individual wires.

  This "stitch-bonding" type nonwoven fabric and others can be produced on "Malimo" type machines using the methods and apparatus described in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,890,579;

  No. 3,030,786; N, 3,253,426; N, 3,274,806; No. 3,279,221;

  No. 3,309,900; No. 3,389,583; No. 3,392,078; N, 3,440,840;

  No. 3,452,561; No. 3,457,738; No. 3,460,599; NO 3 540 238

  3,541,812; No. 3,567,565; NI 3,592,025; NI 3,672,187

  No. 3,677,034; Nos. 4,144,727 and Re No. 25,749.

  The ability to easily produce a basic fabric in series in a variety of designs is of great

  extreme importance for the commercial success of the fabric.

  Although it is possible to produce non-woven fabrics on "Malimo" machines at a relatively high speed compared to the production of fabrics on

  looms, there has been a great deal of interest

  this advantageous characteristic by increasing the flexibility of the drawings not only from the point of view of the various combinations of density, size and color of the textile elements, their spacing and the voluntary omission of one or more of these elements, but also

  with regard to the configuration in the space of the

  textiles of the fabric. In particular, it would be useful to give the "Malimo" fabrics an even greater flexibility of designs, in particular as regards the

  creating unusual decorative or visible effects. The pre-

  This invention allows for the first time a greater

  diversity of designs for which it is possible to use

  Only one element or textile yarn can be used to produce designs comprising weft patterns that have not been performed so far on sewing-knitting machines. For example, the present invention makes it possible to create drawings of any desired configuration, including block-shaped, but not limited, single-wire drawings, whereas up to now there have been no Thus, the subject of the present invention is fabrics such as those produced on stitch-knitting type machines having a similar process or method which makes it possible to obtain such an effect on machines of the "Malimo" type at industrial production speeds. greater flexibility of drawings, executed by means of a single

  wire drawing or more of these wires.

  The invention also relates to a device des-

  designed to produce fabrics on sewing machines

  knitting with greater possibilities of training

  drawing with a single wire drawing or

of these sons.

  The subject of the invention is also a method of

  production of fabrics on sewing machines

  knitting having improved pattern forming capabilities using a single drawing thread or more of

these sons.

  According to its essential characteristics, the present invention relates to a new fabric of the type

  stitched together with a device and a manufacturing process

  cation of such a fabric on a sewing-knitting machine such as a machine of the "Malimo" type, said fabric having one or more design threads arranged on non-rectilinear paths, the one or more yarns having sections oriented in one direction essentially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the fabric. A single system of longitudinal columns of binding yarn, each column comprising several rows of knotted stitches, is in contact with the drawing yarn (s) so that loops of the binding yarn are on the underside of the fabric and segments of the columns of the binding yarn are on the place to bind and fix said son drawing. in a unitary and coherent textile structure. The system of columns of

  binding yarn is a half mesh configuration

  simple by alternating two wires in a series of loops and / or

a chain configuration.

  In the knotted fabric of the present invention

  using a warp yarn to bind the aforementioned drawing yarn (s) and other optional textile yarns into a coherent structure, the binding yarn passes through and / or

  covers individual elements in a large number of locations.

  random elements to better retain these elements in the

against a relative displacement.

  According to a characteristic of the fabric according to

  the invention, a drawing having a desired configuration

  conch can be formed by means of a single textile element

  with segments that extend in a

  perpendicularly to the longitudinal direction of the

  fe. In general, such a design can have any configuration which, by analogy, could be produced by means of a pencil on a strip of graph paper. By way of examples of such drawings, there may be mentioned block-shaped drawings (the "blocks", when they are produced successively, which can be arranged along an axis parallel to the longitudinal direction of the block). fabric or staggered or laterally, obliquely relative to

  in the longitudinal direction of the fabric) of any

  geometry such as squares, rectangles, triangles, diamonds, circles, etc .; and linear or semi-solid drawings with which it would be possible to make figures, letters, alpha-numeric symbols and / or words. Also, using several son drawing it is possible according to the invention to achieve successive patterns of networks such as a checkerboard, wherein each sequence is produced independently of the others and by means of a single wire drawing. It is even possible to adjust the density of the "embedded" pattern to obtain a degree of coverage corresponding to a "solid fabric" having one or more solid stripes covering either a portion or the entire width of the fabric, each strip which can be made by a single drawing wire whose segments are perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the fabric and extend across the scratch. In this respect, the invention

  deviate from the teaching of the United States patent of

  No. 3,672,187, in which the drawing son can be made to follow non-rectilinear paths but never a direction perpendicular to the length of the fabric. This inherent limitation of the United States patent

  No. 3,672,187-mentioned above only allows the forma-

  "outlines" of drawings with two or more ends of wire and prohibits the creation of the aforementioned

  for the first time the process and apparatus of the pre-

  invention on sewing-knitting machines.

  As used herein, the term "segment" of a drawing wire means a portion of such a wire which is perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the fabric.

  and has a length corresponding at least to the distance

  between two columns of binding wire. A segment

  extending across several columns so as to give the appearance of a horizontal part of the element

  will be referred to in this memorial as "a long-term

LATIONS ".

  The invention will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings by way of non-limiting examples and in which FIGS. 1 and 2 are photographs respectively showing a plan view and a large-scale part of the location of a fabric according to the present invention; Fig. 3 is a photograph showing a plan view of the location of a portion extending from one edge to another according to another embodiment of the invention; Fig. 4 is a photograph showing on a larger scale place of a fabric of the type shown in Figure 3; Fig. 5 is a photograph showing a plan view of the location of a portion of another fabric according to the invention; Fig. 6 is a photograph showing a plan view of the location of a larger portion of the fabric of Fig. 5; Fig. 7 is a photograph showing a plan view of the location of a portion of another fabric according to the invention; Fig. 8 is a photograph showing a plan view of the location of a portion of a fabric according to the embodiment shown in Fig. 7 but incorporating a coherent liner constituting the underside of the fabric; Figures 9, 10 and 11 are photographs respectively showing a plan view, a portion of the large-scale location and a plan view of the back of another fabric according to the invention; Figures 12 and 13 are photographs respectively showing a plan view and a part at

  large scale of the place of another fabric according to the

  vention; Fig. 14 is a photograph showing a plan view of the location of a portion of a fabric according to another embodiment of the invention; Figures 15, 16 and 17 are photographs respectively showing a plan view of the place, a larger scale part of the place and a view of

  plan of the wrong side of a fabric according to another form of

  of the invention; and Fig. 18 is a partly schematic view of an embodiment of a dispensing mechanism of

  drawing wire of the apparatus according to the invention.

  Referring to FIGS. 1 and 2, a fabric 1 consists of a single wire 3 and 4

  which are placed on the top of a constituent weft

  several textile threads 5 which are themselves placed on a longitudinal strip 7 of a lining consisting of a spun fibrous nonwoven web (eg Reemay or Sontara) forming the underside of the fabric. The components 3, 4, and 7 of the fabric are fixed against a displacement

  and are linked together to form the tex-

  coherent unitary tile of the fabric 1 by means of a network

  1G 9 binding yarn having a semi-shaped configuration

  simple. As can be seen in Figure 1 and more particularly

  2, major portions 11 of the drawing wire 3 extend in a direction substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the fabric 1, in this case over a distance corresponding approximately to

  fourteen adjacent columns of the binding yarn.

  By examining FIG. 3, a fabric 13 consists of several drawing threads arranged on a layer 14 of weft threads and each of said drawing threads having consecutive portions of great length which extend

  in a direction essentially horizontal or perpendicular

  longitudinal direction, the adjacent horizontal portions of the adjacent elements being parallel to each other. In this way, a simulated effect of weft yarns having the appearance of a decorative zigzag pattern which is continuous from one selvage to the other is obtained, although as seen in FIG.

  each wire drawing 17, 18 and 19 implies a configura-

  staircase having horizontal parts (ie parts which are essentially perpendicular to the

  longitudinal direction) alternating with the vertical parts.

  The fabric 13 further contains a plurality of warp yarns

  optional panels 20 arranged near the edge to increase the resistance. along the selvedge and also create a

pretty edge effect.

  Referring to Figure 5, a fabric 21

  comprises a layer 23 of weft yarns to which is super-

  laid a single thread drawing 25 which forms a long succession

  nal designs alternating squares and lozenges

  which enable the process and the apparatus to be carried out according to the

  by depositing a single wire, of which large parts

  determined are oriented essentially

  in the longitudinal direction of the fabric. Figure 6 shows a larger surface of the fabric 21 of the

  Figure 5, which includes two longitudinal successions adja-

  centes of drawings in the shape of squares and alternating rhombuses

  which are formed only by two drawing son 25a and 25b res-

tively.

  By examining FIG. 7, there is seen a fabric 27 comprising three drawing threads 29, 31 and 33 which are arranged on the top of a weft layer consisting of several threads 35. The components 29, 31, 33 and 35 of the stuff are

  fixed against relative displacement and are

  seems to form a coherent structure of a fabric 27 by means of a network of binding yarns 37 applied according to

  a knit-stitch pattern. He left-

  important to understand the concept of pre-

  invention that the son drawing 29, 31 and 33 are

  simultaneously to the work and training area

  of the fabric of the machine by a single mechanism according to the

  vention, wherein each wire drawing 29, 31 and 33 is distributed by a separate tube, each tube being flanked by

  each side with a circular brush (four brushes in all).

  Thus, a longitudinal succession of solid drawings 39, 41 and 43 is formed, each drawing being characterized by an interweaving of large horizontal and parallel parts

  three threads 29, 31 and 33 to provide a straightening effect

  decorative element, as shown.

  Referring to FIG. 8, a fabric 45 is essentially the same as that shown in FIG. 7 but has a longitudinal band 47 of a spun fibrous nonwoven web, which is an integral part of

  the back of the fabric to create an additional relief effect

  mentary. FIGS. 9, 10 and 11 show a fabric 49 which is generally similar to that of FIG. 8, except that it has a less dense or more "perforated" weft effect in the drawing as a result of a more a large vertical spacing of the horizontal portions of the nested drawing threads 51, 53 and 55. By examining more particularly FIG. 10, it is clearly seen how a binding thread passes through a drawing thread, for example at 57, 59 and 61 and the manner in which whose drawing threads are covered in others

  points by the rows of binding thread to ensure

  of these yarns and the weft to form a coherent fabric.

  annuity. Figure 11 illustrates the appearance of the fabric 49 when

  it is viewed upside down and shows the opacity effect created by the longitudinal band 63 of the fibrous web

spun nonwoven.

  Referring to Figs. 12 and 13, a fabric 65 is generally similar to that of Fig. 8, except that it has a slightly different effect due to the longitudinal succession of block-shaped patterns formed by threads. , 69 and 71 which do not cover

  only partially one side of a liner integral strip 73.

  In Fig. 14, a fabric 75 is made up of three design threads 77, 79 and 81 which are each distributed by a separate tube of the mechanism of the present apparatus to form a succession-longitudinal of overlapping laterally adjacent drawings, each drawing being characterized by a very tight interlocking of the horizontal parts

  adjacent wires and thus reveals the high degree of coverage

  ture (wire density) that the present invention allows to

  dye. This cover is further increased in the fabric 75

  By incorporating a coherent lining 83 which constitutes

kills the wrong side of the fabric.

  With regard to FIGS. 15, 16 and 17, a fabric 85 consists of three son drawings 87, 89 and 91 arranged on a weft layer consisting of several threads 93, which are themselves arranged symmetrically on a

  longitudinal strip 95 of a lining formed of a thin layer

  spun nonwoven spun, the latter constituting the reverse

  of the fabric, as shown in Figure 17.

  Sants 87, 89, 91, 93 and 95 of the fabric are secured against relative movement and are bonded together to form the coherent texture of the fabric 85 by a network of threads.

  binding 97 in a configuration of sewing stitches

  knitting. Each of the three design threads 87, 89 and 91 is conveyed into the working area of the sewing-knitting machine by a distributor tube separate from the mechanism of the apparatus of the invention, the latter being driven by the transmission belt of the invention. a computer-controlled stepper motor, so as to obtain a continuous block-shaped pattern of constant width extending longitudinally, which is characterized by an interlocking of the large horizontal portions of the adjacent drawing wires, as can be seen in FIG.

  see more particularly in Figure 16.

  Figure 18 is partly schematic

  equipment during its use according to the invention.

  tion. A mechanism 101 for dispensing a thread

  takes a frame 102 on which are arranged a distribution tube

  wire feeder 105 and rotating circular brushes 109a and 109b flanking the outlet end of the tube. In the general case, it would be possible to couple n tubes for

  n son drawing alternately with n + 1 circular brushes.

  The mechanism 101 is mounted on the sewing type machine.

  knitting, for example a machine "Malimo" so that the brushes 109a and 109b. extend into the elongated working area 103 for the formation of

  the fabric, the bristles 111 of the brushes being sufficiently flexible

  To allow the needles 104 of the work area to pass through during the insertion of the drawing wire, this facilitates the laying of the wire without disturbing the operation of the seam elements or damaging either the bristles or the needles. Bristles 111 may be of any material meeting the above criteria, for example, synthetic fibers such as nylon, polyester or polyolefin fibers; animal fibers, for example in

  horsehair; and thin metal wires.

  During the process of forming a stitch-knit fabric, a wire pattern 107 is dispensed through the tube 105 from which it exits at a point 106 and then near the work area 103. In the meantime, mechanism 101 is reciprocated in the direction indicated by the arrows a and b by a motor

  step 113 coupled to the mechanism by a transmission belt.

  mission (eg flexible material such as rubber

  to reduce congestion and make it easier to replace

  114), said stepping motor being controlled by a digital computer 115 which has been programmed by means of an appropriate "pad" to cause the. formation of a desired design with the wire 107. In this respect, the motor

  step by step 113 numerically controls the movement of the

  101, so that the speed of the machine through the working area of the machine is at least as large and preferably greater than the speed at which the sewing elements of the work area perform a complete sewing cycle. . In this way, the speed of the computer / stepper motor assembly and feed mechanism corresponds to the operating speed of the sewing-knitting machine while being generally independent of the sewing-knitting machine. Possibly, it is possible to use

  one or more stepper motors with several wires drawing.

  When the mechanism 101 moves in the direction of the arrow a, a wire 107 exiting the tube 105 is captured or driven by the bristles 111 of the rotating brush 109a and is thus deposited in the work area and maintained in the latter until to be fixed by a wire of

  binding (not shown) in the fabric, so that a "seg-

  Preferably, the drawing wire is disposed in a direction which is substantially perpendicular to the length of the resulting fabric.When the mechanism 101 completes its travel in the direction of the arrow a, the stepping motor 113, accordingly

  instructions received from computer 115 require the

  by means of the transmission belt: 114, to change direction at a predetermined time and to return in the direction of the arrow b, the function of the brush 109a being filled by the brush 109b. In this way, the dispensing mechanism 101 deposits a single wire pattern 107 horizontally to make a block-shaped pattern of a predetermined pattern. A feature of this procedure is the synchronization of the stepping motor so that the laying motion begins as soon as the ends of the sewing needles enter the plane of the weft. This synchronization has the effect

  to force the drawing thread to pull on the

  rather than on the wire of Miage and to confer a period

  maximum to complete the pose movement.

  It goes without saying that many modifications can

  can be made to the fabric, apparatus and process

  described without departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims (22)

  1. Fabric made on a sewing-knitting type machine such as a machine "Malimo", characterized in that it comprises one or more son drawing (3) arranged on non-rectilinear paths, segments (11) of said son   drawing (3) extending substantially perpendicularly   in the longitudinal direction of the fabric; and a single system of longitudinal tie-wire columns (9), each column comprising a plurality of rows of knotted stitches which contact the drawing threads (3), loops of the binding thread (9) lying on the wrong side the fabric and strands of the rows of binding yarn lying on the place to bind and secure the threads   (3) in a coherent textile structure.   2. Fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the system of the columns of the binding yarn comprises a configuration of half-points by alternating two son in a series of loops.   3. Fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the system of the columns of the binding thread comprises   a set of chain stitches.   4. Fabric according to any one of the claims   1 to 3, characterized in that a block-shaped pattern is formed by a single drawing wire (25) having long segments arranged in a parallel configuration,   perpendicular to the longitudinal direction.   5. Fabric made on a sewing-knitting type machine such as a machine "Malimo", characterized in that it comprises: a weft layer (35) one or more son drawing (29, 31, 33) arranged on the weft along non-rectilinear paths, segments   said drawing wires (29, 31, 33) extending substantially   perpendicularly to the longitudinal direction of the fabric and a single system of longitudinal columns of the binding yarn (37), each column comprising a plurality of rows of knotted stitches which engage the weft (35) and the drawing threads (29, 31 , 33) and hold them together by forming loops of the binding yarn upside of the fabric (27) and strands of the rows of binding yarn at the point to bind and secure the weft (35) and drawing son (29,   31, 33) into a coherent structure.   6. Fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that the weft layer consists of several son. 7. Fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that the system of the columns of the binding thread comprises a configuration of semi-simple points by alternating two son in a series of loops.   8. Fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that the system of the columns of the binding thread comprises   a chain stitch configuration.   9. Fabric according to any one of the claims   5 to 8, characterized in that a block-shaped pattern is formed by a single wire having long segments disposed in a parallel configuration which is   perpendicular to the longitudinal direction.   10. Coated doubled fabric made on a machine couturoyric type such as a machine "Malimoll, said fabric having a place and a back and being characterized in that it comprises:   a nonwoven spun fibrous web (95) constitutes   killing the wrong side of the stuff; a weft layer (93) placed on the web (95); one or more drawing threads (87, 89, 91) disposed on the weft (93) along non-rectilinear paths,   segments of the design threads extending substantially   perpendicularly to the longitudinal direction of the fabric (85); and a single system of longitudinal columns of a binding yarn (97), each column comprising a plurality of rows of warp knotted stitches which engage the web, the weft and the drawing yarns and hold them in place. forming tie-up loops of the fabric and overlapping strands of the binding yarn at the location to bond the web, weft and yarns together   drawing in the form of a coherent structure.   5.11. Fabric according to claim 10, characterized in that the nonwoven fibrous web consists of continuous filaments spunbonded the weft layer consists of several textile threads; and the system of the columns of the binding thread presents   a set of chain stitches or half points   simple by alternating two threads in a series of loops.   Cloth according to claim 10, characterized   in that the nonwoven fibrous web consists of filament   discontinuous elements interwoven by spinning; the weft layer consisting of several textile threads; and the system of the columns of the binding thread comprising   a set of chain stitches or half points   simple by alternating two sons in a series of points.   13. Fabric according to any one of the claims   at 12, characterized in that a block-shaped pattern is formed by a single wire (25) having long segments arranged in a parallel configuration   which is perpendicular to the longitudinal direction.   14. Apparatus for dispensing a drawing thread in an elongated working area of a machine of the stitch-knitting type such as a machine "Malimo", characterized in that it comprises: a distributor member for guiding the thread drawing (107) and delivering it to a point near the work area (103);   a device (101) integral with the body   tributor for placing the drawing wire exiting the latter into the work area (103), so that a segment of the drawing wire is put in a position in which it is   essentially parallel to the extended working area   during a sewing cycle of the machine; and 247'2624   a device for animating the distribution organ   scorer and a reciprocating device along the work area (-103) during a cycle of sewing machine.   15. Apparatus according to claim 14, characterized in that the dispensing member is a tube (105) of sufficient diameter to pass the wire drawing (107) the laying device of the drawing element compri- two circular brushes (109a, 109b) flanking the tube (105) and rotatable in the direction of the elongate working area (103) so that the wire pattern (107) is placed between a brush (109a) and the elements seaming (104) of the work area (103) during each reciprocating movement of the apparatus along that area, said brush (109a) having bristles (111) for permitting their penetration by the seam elements (104) during the formation of the fabric; and   the back-and-forth device comprises   a stepping motor (113) coupled to the distribution member   to the laying device by means of a transmission belt   sion (114), the operation of the stepper motor (113) being controlled, independently of the speed of the sewing-knitting machine, by a computer (115) pre-programmed   according to the drawing that is to form the thread drawing (107).   Apparatus according to claim 15, characterized   in that the distributor member comprises a plurality of tubes (105) each of which has a diameter sufficient to pass a wire pattern (107) and each tube (105) is flanked on each side of a rotating circular brush (109a, 109b).   17. A method of forming a stitch-bonded type fabric on a sewing-knitting machine such as a "Malimo" machine having a comb-shaped platen bar, a spike-shaped latte also   comb, the platinum bar and the spiked batten   between them an extended working area for training   of the fabric, a row of pointed or barbed needles which is parallel to said zone and is reciprocated therein and a row of wire guides co-operating with the needles for forming many chains of loops of a binding yarn in the longitudinal direction, characterized in that it consists of: (a) guiding one or more drawing threads and delivering them to a point situated near the Work zone;   (b) to place the drawing thread (s) issued during   in step (a) in the work area, such that a segment of the drawing wire (s) is disposed in a position in which it is substantially parallel to the seam elements during a sewing cycle of the machine; and   (c) to form a single system of longitudinal columns   twine dinals in the work area of the machine.   china, each column comprising numerous rows of knotted stitches which engage the drawing elements by loops of the binding yarn upside of the fabric and by strands of the rows of binding yarn at the location so   to bind and fix the drawing threads into a coherent structure.   18. The method of claim 17, characterized   in that the system of bonding wire columns pre-   feels a configuration of half-single points alternating   two sons in a series of loops.   19. The method of claim 17, characterized   in that the system of the tie wire columns pre-   feels a chainstitch configuration.   20. Process according to any one of the claims   17 to 19, characterized in that a block-shaped drawing is formed by a single drawing wire having segments   of great length which are arranged in a configura-   parallel which is perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the stuff.   21. Process according to any one of the claims   17 to 19, characterized in that steps (a) and (b) are performed using the apparatus of claim 14.   22. Process according to any one of the claims   17 to 19, characterized in that steps (a) and (b) are performed using the apparatus of claim 15.   23. Process according to any one of the claims   17 to 19, characterized in that steps (a) and (b) are performed using the apparatus of claim 16.