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EP4518833A1 - Polyester, viscous mixture, process for preparing same and cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Polyester, viscous mixture, process for preparing same and cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number
EP4518833A1
EP4518833A1 EP23723193.1A EP23723193A EP4518833A1 EP 4518833 A1 EP4518833 A1 EP 4518833A1 EP 23723193 A EP23723193 A EP 23723193A EP 4518833 A1 EP4518833 A1 EP 4518833A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
mixture
cosmetic composition
polyester
mixture according
dicarboxylic acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP23723193.1A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Thierry Bernoud
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Biosynthis SARL
Original Assignee
Biosynthis SARL
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Biosynthis SARL filed Critical Biosynthis SARL
Publication of EP4518833A1 publication Critical patent/EP4518833A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85Polyesters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08GMACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G63/00Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a carboxylic ester link in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G63/02Polyesters derived from hydroxycarboxylic acids or from polycarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy compounds
    • C08G63/12Polyesters derived from hydroxycarboxylic acids or from polycarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy compounds derived from polycarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy compounds
    • C08G63/16Dicarboxylic acids and dihydroxy compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95

Definitions

  • the present application relates to a viscous mixture comprising at least one polyester and at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.
  • the present application also relates to a process for preparing such a mixture.
  • the invention relates to the polyester compound and the cosmetic composition comprising the mixture according to the invention.
  • Alkane is a saturated hydrocarbon consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms linked together by simple covalent bonds whose general formula is C n H2n+2.
  • Linear alkane is an alkane in which each carbon atom is linked to a maximum of two carbon atoms.
  • Branched alkane is an alkane in which certain carbon atoms are linked to three or even four carbon atoms.
  • C x alkane is an alkane made up of x carbon atoms, said alkane being able to be linear or branched.
  • dodecane is a C12 alkane.
  • C>x alkane means an alkane consisting of at least x+1 carbon atoms, said alkane being able to be linear or branched.
  • dodecane is a linear C>10 alkane or C12 alkane.
  • C>x alkane is an alkane consisting of at least x carbon atoms, said alkane being able to be linear or branched, for example 2,3,6-trimethylheptane (CAS 4032-93-3) is a C>10 alkane.
  • C x -C y alkane is called an alkane consisting of x to y carbon atoms, the said alkane being able to be linear or branched.
  • the Ci-C2 alkanes are methane and ethane.
  • Isoalkane means a branched alkane comprising at least one carbon atom linked to at least three carbon atoms including a methyl group.
  • Polymer means a polymer whose main chain consists of an alternating sequence of units derived from at least one dicarboxylic acid and units derived from at least one alcohol comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, these units being linked. between them by ester functions.
  • hydrocarbon compound means a compound consisting essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
  • hydroxyl index The quantity of free hydroxyl measured according to the NF ISO 4629 4629-2 method is called “hydroxyl index”.
  • the hydroxyl number is expressed in mg KOH/g.
  • viscosity is the kinematic viscosity which is the quotient of the dynamic viscosity by the density or density of the fluid. Kinematic viscosity is commonly expressed in centistokes (cSt) or mm 2 . s -1 .
  • mass percentage the ratio of the mass of a first compound relative to the total mass of a mixture of compounds or composition, reduced to a percentage. For example, if 10 grams of a compound y are present in a mixture z having a total mass of 100 grams, then the mass percentage of y in z is 10%.
  • polyesters according to the invention are characterized by their molecular mass, this is measured by the so-called Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) method and is expressed in g/mol.
  • SEC Size Exclusion Chromatography
  • polyesters according to the invention are characterized by their colorimetry, this is determined by the APHA-HAZEN method according to the ASTM D 1209 standard and it is expressed in APHA.
  • the percentage of organic carbon of plant origin ( 14 C) determined by a radiocarbon analysis according to one of the following standards ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785- is called the “naturalness index” of an organic composition. 1.
  • the ingredients making it possible to adjust the structural, thickening and gelling characteristics of a cosmetic product include waxes, mineral fillers based on silica in particular, hydrophobized clays such as bentonites, metallic salts of fatty acids, fatty acid esters and derivatives sugars or oligosaccharides functionalized with fatty acids such as dextran palmitate or sucrose esters.
  • Waxes for example, can leave the skin feeling too greasy and lead to a matte appearance and loss of shine.
  • Structuring products must therefore allow fine adjustment of the consistency of the product without negatively impacting the sensation to the touch, the durability of the product, the coloring and the shine in particular. There is therefore a need to offer structuring products that are “spectators” with respect to the other characteristics of the product or even better which allow them to be improved. Such products are of great interest because they can reduce the number of ingredients used in a cosmetic composition.
  • Polyesters resulting from the condensation of fatty carboxylic acids of natural origin and polyols have been considered in recent years as being able to adjust the consistency of cosmetic products while making it possible to preserve or even improve properties. like shine.
  • the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL offers ester oligomers derived from dilinoleic acid dimers and particular dilinoleic diol dimers under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and LUSPLAN DD-DA7®. These oligoesters obtained by polycondensation in a heptane solvent have a yellowish color and cannot replace a thickening or gelling agent due to their low viscosity.
  • the hydroxyl index of the commercial product LUSPLAN DD-DA7® is between 50 and 55 mg KOH/g, it is therefore higher than the hydroxyl indexes of the polyesters according to the invention.
  • the company L'OREAL has filed two patent applications, WO2013191302 and WO2018119762, in which cosmetic compositions containing polyesters, having high hydroxyl indices, of the PLANDOOL G type are disclosed. These polyesters are obtained by the condensation of dimers acid and alcohol dimers, in the presence of monoalcohols such as behenyl alcohol and/or phytosterol derivatives. The presence of these reagents makes it possible to convert some of the free hydroxyl groups resulting from the condensation reaction.
  • Polyesters derived in particular from fatty acids have also been proposed by the company CRODA in patent applications EP1962790A1 and EP2004137A1. These polyesters are obtained by condensation of 3 reagents: a dicarboxylic acid, a polyol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions and a C16-C30 monocarboxylic fatty acid.
  • the Applicant has also proposed polyesters obtained by condensation between dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, polyesters available under the trade name Viscoplast 14436H. These low viscosity liquid polyesters were notably combined with a fatty phase in patent application FR2931670A1 from the company L'OREAL.
  • polyesters used, after crosslinking with isocyanates, in adhesive compositions to be applied to the skin are obtained by condensation between an acid dimer and an alcohol dimer. These condensations are carried out either at very low pressure and without elimination of water, and preferably in two stages, or at atmospheric pressure but with distillation of the water generated during the reaction. The first stage is carried out at a temperature between 170 and 190 °C under a vacuum between 7 and 13 mbar and the second stage at an even lower pressure, between 2 and 8 mbar, and at a temperature between 215 and 13 mbar. 235°C. Unlike the polyesters according to the invention, it is necessary for these to have free hydroxyl functions to enable them to be crosslinked with isocyanate type derivatives.
  • polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are of certain interest for the preparation of cosmetic compositions.
  • polyesters of high viscosity and having a low hydroxyl index could be obtained by a condensation reaction in the presence of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.
  • the mixture according to the invention comprising at least one polyester and at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound has a viscosity such that it makes it possible to limit or even eliminate the use of thickening or gelling agents in compositions. cosmetics.
  • the process for preparing the mixture according to the invention allows the preparation of cosmetic compositions which can have a naturalness index greater than or equal to 90%, more advantageously greater than or equal to 95%.
  • the polyester has a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.
  • the invention also relates to a polyester resulting from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, the at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 30 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester has a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g. [00050] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester according to the invention is not liquid: it cannot flow under its own weight at 25°C.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 10 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 5 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 2,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 15 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 2,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 10 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 2,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 5 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 4,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 10 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 4,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 5 mg KOH/g.
  • the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 100,000 g/mol.
  • the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 105,000 g/mol.
  • the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 110,000 g/mol. [00065] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 115,000 g/mol.
  • the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 120,000 g/mol.
  • the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass in a range of 100,000 to 200,000 g/mol.
  • the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass in a range of 100,000 to 200,000 g/mol.
  • the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass in a range of 100,000 to 200,000 g/mol.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 200 on the APHA scale.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 150 on the APHA scale.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 125 on the APHA scale.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 100 on the APHA scale.
  • the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 75 on the APHA scale.
  • the polyester according to the present invention has a coloring less than or equal to 50 on the APHA scale.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, and in the absence of behenyl alcohol and/or phytosterol.
  • the term “reaction” means a condensation reaction.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer of plant origin and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions of plant origin.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer of plant origin and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions of plant origin.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions. [00093] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.
  • dicarboxylic acid dimer is meant a compound obtained by a process comprising a dimerization reaction of a compound carrying a carboxylic acid function.
  • the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer is a linear or branched C8-C44 hydrocarbon compound, saturated or unsaturated, which may comprise one or more cycles and carry 2 carboxylic acid functions.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is chosen from dicarboxylic acid dimers of plant origin. [000106] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is chosen from unsaturated dicarboxylic acid dimers.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C28-C44 compound.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C36 compound.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C36 compound derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C36 unsaturated compound derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a saturated C36 compound derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C36 compound chosen from the group consisting of products marketed under the brands Empol 1008, Pripol 1013, Pripol 1009, Jaric D60, Jaric D70, Jaric D75, Jaric D76 , Radiacid 0960, Radiacid 0975, Radiacid 0976, Radiacid 0977 and Radiacid 0978.
  • the C36 dicarboxylic acid dimer is the product marketed under the brand Pripol 1009.
  • C36 dicarboxylic acid dimer products can also include Cis (“monomer”) and C36 (“trimer”) in small quantities.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C44 compound.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C44 unsaturated compound derived from euricic acid.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a saturated C44 compound derived from euricic acid.
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C44 compound chosen from the group consisting of products marketed under the brands Pripol 1004 and Radiacid 0994. [000121] It is well known that commercial C44 dicarboxylic acid dimer products can also include C22 (“monomer”) and (“trimer”) in small quantities.
  • the at least one alcohol used in the reaction making it possible to obtain the polyester according to the invention is a C2-C44 hydrocarbon compound, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, which may comprise one or more cycles and bearing at least 2 hydroxyl functions.
  • the at least one alcohol is a saturated linear alcohol.
  • the at least one alcohol is an unsaturated linear alcohol.
  • the at least one alcohol is a saturated branched alcohol.
  • the at least one alcohol is an unsaturated branched alcohol.
  • the at least one alcohol is an alcohol of plant origin.
  • the at least one alcohol is an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
  • the at least one alcohol is an alcohol bearing two hydroxyl functions chosen from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9, 12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), alone or in mixture.
  • the at least one alcohol is an alcohol bearing two hydroxyl functions chosen from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
  • the at least one alcohol is 1,4-butanediol.
  • the at least one alcohol is (9Z,12Z)-18-
  • the at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions is the commercial product of the Pripol 2033 brand.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of at least two alcohols.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of at least two alcohols chosen from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol , 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca- 9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two alcohols.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two linear alcohols.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of a linear alcohol and a branched alcohol.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two branched alcohols.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two saturated alcohols.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of a saturated alcohol and a saturated alcohol.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two saturated alcohols.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two alcohols chosen from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12 -dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of 1,4-butanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy ]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
  • the at least one alcohol is chosen from the group consisting of alcohols carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
  • the at least one alcohol is an alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions chosen from the group consisting of glycerol, threitol, erythritol, inositol, arabitol, xylitol and sorbitol.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of alcohols carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
  • the at least one alcohol is a mixture of sorbitol and glycerol.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic and/or linolenic acid and at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and an alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and ( 9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and 1 ,3-propanediol.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and 1 ,4-propanediol.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and 1 ,5-pentanediol.
  • the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and at least an alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
  • the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention contains at least 12 carbon atoms.
  • the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of saturated branched alkanes.
  • the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is a non-volatile compound.
  • the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention has a flash point greater than 110°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
  • the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is a mixture of Ci6-Cis alkanes.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one polyester is between 50 and 95% relative to the total mass of the mixture. [000188] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one polyester is between 50 and 70% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound is between 15 and 25% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 10% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 20% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon. [000200] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 30% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 60% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 10% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 70% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 10% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it contains 50% by mass of at least one polyester and 50% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it contains 60% by mass of at least one polyester and 40% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it contains 70% by mass of at least one polyester and 30% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.
  • the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it contains 80% by mass of at least one polyester and 20% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.
  • the invention also relates to a process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) there is at least one carboxylic acid dimer, b) there is at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, c) we have at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound, d) we mix the compounds of steps a), b) and c), e) we lower the pressure of the mixture at a pressure between 900 and 10 mbar, f) the mixture is gradually heated to a target temperature between 150°C and 250°C, g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, h) a mixture is obtained comprising a polyester and the biosourced hydrocarbon compound, characterized in that the compounds of steps a), b) and c) can be mixed in any order during step d).
  • the invention also relates to a process for obtaining the polyester according to the invention, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) there is at least one carboxylic acid dimer, b) there is at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, c) the compounds of steps a), b) and c are mixed, d) the pressure of the mixture is lowered to a pressure of between 900 and 10 mbar, e) we gradually heats the mixture to a target temperature of between 150°C and 250°C, f) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, g) a polyester is obtained, characterized in that the compounds of the steps a) and b) can be mixed in any order during step d).
  • the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it does not use a monoalcohol.
  • the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention characterized in that it does not use behenyl alcohol and/or phytosterol.
  • At least one catalyst is added during step d) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the at least one catalyst added during step d) is chosen from the group consisting of base type catalysts.
  • the at least one catalyst added during step d) is a base type catalyst chosen from the group consisting of hydroxide or carbonate salts of alkali metals such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and potassium carbonate.
  • the at least one catalyst added during step d) is chosen from the group consisting of acid type catalysts.
  • the at least one catalyst added during step d) is an acid type catalyst chosen from the group consisting of sulfonic acids such as paratoluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid and phosphoric or oxy-phosphoric acids such as phosphoric acid and phosphorous acid.
  • sulfonic acids such as paratoluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid and phosphoric or oxy-phosphoric acids such as phosphoric acid and phosphorous acid.
  • the at least one catalyst added during step d) is methanesulfonic acid.
  • the at least one catalyst added during step d) is chosen from the group consisting of tin oxalate and titanium tetrabutanolate.
  • the at least one catalyst added during step d) is tin oxalate.
  • the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01 and 1% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one acid dimer dicarboxylic acid and at least one alcohol.
  • the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01 and 0.5% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.
  • the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01 and 0.2% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.
  • the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01 and 0.1% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.
  • the pressure is lowered to a pressure of between 10 mbar and 900 mbar during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the pressure is lowered to a pressure of between 10 mbar and 300 mbar during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the pressure is lowered to a pressure of 200 mbar during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a target temperature during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention by following a temperature ramp.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature between 150 and 170° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature between 170 and 190°C during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature between 190 and 210°C during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature between 210 and 230°C during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 160° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 170° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 190° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 200° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 210° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 220° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
  • the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions is a diol.
  • the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) a dicarboxylic acid dimer is available, b) a dicarboxylic acid dimer is available, diol, c) we have a biosourced hydrocarbon compound, d) we mix the compounds of steps a), b) and c), e) we lower the pressure of the mixture to a pressure between 900 and 10 mbar f) we gradually heats the mixture to a target temperature of between 150 and 250°C, g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, h) a mixture is obtained comprising a polyester and the biosourced hydrocarbon compound, characterized in that the compounds of steps a), b) and c) can be mixed in any order during step d).
  • the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid is available, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid b) we have (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l -ol (CAS 147853-32-5), c) squalene is available, d) the compounds of steps a), b) and c) are mixed, e) the pressure of the mixture is lowered to a pressure of 10 mbar, f) the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 160°C, g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously removed, methanesulfonic acid being added during step d) and h) obtains a mixture comprising a polyester and squalen
  • the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid is available, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid, b) we have (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca- 9,12-dien- l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), c) we have a mixture of Ci6-Cis alkanes, d) we mix the compounds of steps a), b) and c), e) we lower the pressure of the mixture at a pressure of 200 mbar, f) the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 170° C., g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, tin oxalate being added during step d) and h) we obtain a mixture comprising a saturated dicarboxy
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture according to the invention and at least one compound chosen from non-volatile oils, volatile oils, glossy oils, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, waxes, anti-oxidants, pigments, dyes, surfactants, an aqueous phase, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one non-volatile oil.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil having a flash point greater than 110°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
  • oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • non-volatile oils can be hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or fluorosilicone oils.
  • hydrocarbon oil means an oil essentially consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen and possibly oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms.
  • hydrocarbon oils mention may be made of linear or branched alkanes of mineral or synthetic origin such as linear or branched alkanes of 12 to 40 carbon atoms, (poly) esters and (poly) ethers, and in particular (poly) esters of C2-C24 acids (preferably C6-C20), triglycerides of C6-C20 fatty acids, vegetable oils, di-alkyl carbonates, branched and/or unsaturated fatty acids , branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • linear or branched alkanes of mineral or synthetic origin such as linear or branched alkanes of 12 to 40 carbon atoms, (poly) esters and (poly) ethers, and in particular (poly) esters of C2-C24 acids (preferably C6-C20), triglycerides of C6-C20 fatty acids, vegetable oils, di-alkyl carbonates, branched and/or unsaturated fatty acids , branched and
  • non-volatile silicone oils are in particular chosen from the group comprising phenyl silicone oils, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, or derivatives of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes and their mixtures.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of non-volatile linear or branched alkanes.
  • the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of linear or branched alkanes of 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
  • the non-volatile oils are of vegetable origin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is a vegetable hydrocarbon oil.
  • Vegetable hydrocarbon oils are chosen in particular from the group comprising wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, coconut, apricot, castor, corn, avocado, soy, shea, olive, oil sweet almond, cotton, palm, macadamia, rapeseed, jojoba, hazelnut, poppy, alfalfa, pumpkin, blackcurrant, squash, evening primrose, barley, and their mixtures.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the non-volatile oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the non-volatile oil is between 5% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the non-volatile oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is between 10% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil.
  • volatile oil means an oil having a flash point lower than 110°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
  • oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil of plant origin.
  • the at least one volatile oil has a flash point below 95°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
  • the at least one volatile oil has a flash point below 55°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
  • the at least one volatile oil has a flash point of between 40 and 55°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
  • the at least one volatile oil has a flash point of between 30 and 40°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
  • These volatile oils can be hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or fluorosilicone oils.
  • hydrocarbon oils mention may be made of linear or branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes such as isodecane, isododecane and isohexadecane.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of C8-C12 branched alkanes.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of Cio-branched alkanes.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of trimethylheptanes.
  • trimethylheptanes means all C? branched by three methyl groups.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of Cio-branched alkanes and alkanes linear in C> 10.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of trimethylheptanes and linear C alkanes. > 10.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil consisting of a mixture of at least one trimethylheptane and at least a linear alkane at C>10.
  • silicone oils such as linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
  • fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes and fluoroester oils.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the volatile oil is at least 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is at least 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is at least 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is at least 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is between 40% and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the volatile oil is between 25% and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is between 30% and 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the volatile oil is between 40% and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one glossy oil.
  • the term “shiny oil” means an oil having intrinsic shine properties. “Shiny oils” are frequently used in cosmetics to guarantee a “shiny effect” when applying cosmetic compositions to keratin materials for example. [000303] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized by the shiny oil being a non-volatile oil.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the glossy oil is chosen from the group comprising:
  • polystyrene resin such as: polybutylenes in particular POLYBUTENE® marketed or manufactured by the company ATAMAN, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, polyfarnesenes, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers in particular the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer, ANTARON V 220 ® marketed or manufactured by the company ISP.
  • esters such as esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number greater than 30, aromatic esters, esters of fatty alcohol or branched fatty acids having 20 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the shiny oil is of plant origin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is at least 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 2% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 10% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [000311] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 2% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one pasty fatty substance.
  • the term “pasty fatty substance” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change, presenting at room temperature (25°C) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the melting temperature of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 25°C.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is chosen from the group comprising synthetic pasty fatty substances, animal pasty fatty substances, vegetable pasty fatty substances and their mixtures.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is a synthetic pasty fatty substance chosen from the group comprising: polyol ethers, petroleum jelly, vinyl polymers, pentaerythritol esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
  • the pasty fatty substance is a synthetic pasty fatty substance chosen from the group comprising: polyol ethers, petroleum jelly, vinyl polymers, pentaerythritol esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty animal fatty substance is lanolin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is a vegetable pasty fatty substance.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [000323] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is an organic gelling agent chosen from the group comprising: ethylcellulose and its derivatives, resins derived from rosin, esters of dextrin, fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the gelling agent is an organic gelling agent chosen from the group comprising: ethylcellulose and its derivatives, resins derived from rosin, esters of dextrin, fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming a macroscopically continuous film, particularly on the lips in the context of our invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is trimethylsilloxysillicate marketed under the name TMS 803.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one wax is chosen from the group consisting of synthetic waxes, mineral waxes, vegetable waxes and animal waxes. .
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the wax is a mineral wax or a synthetic wax chosen from the group comprising: microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes, fluorinated waxes.
  • vegetable wax is meant a composition comprising at least one partially or completely hydrogenated oil.
  • plant waxes may include esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, and may further include fatty acids, free fatty alcohols, long chain linear alkanes and/or unsaponifiables.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part is chosen from the group comprising: water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearls, flakes and their mixtures .
  • pigments can be used such as titanium mica, borosilicates and their derivatives, mica, silica.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a dye of plant origin chosen from fruit and/or plant extracts containing dyes. [000391] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is at least 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 0.01% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 5% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 1% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 0.01% and 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 10% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one surfactant.
  • surfactant means a compound which modifies the surface tension between two surfaces, phases.
  • these Compounds are amphiphilic molecules and make it possible to solubilize two immiscible phases of a composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least surfactant is chosen from the group comprising non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least surfactant is chosen from the group of non-ionic surfactants consisting of: polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerin alkyl ethers, glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least surfactant is chosen from the group of non-ionic surfactants consisting of: polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerin alkyl ethers, glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is an anionic surfactant.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least surfactant is an anionic surfactant chosen from the group consisting of: alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether phosphates , sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, polyaspartates, their derivatives and their mixtures.
  • anionic surfactant chosen from the group consisting of: alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether phosphates , sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, polyaspartates, their derivatives and their mixtures.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is at least 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is between 0.1% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one aqueous phase.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase consists of water.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one organic solvent miscible with water.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water chosen from the group consisting of lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ketones and short chain C2-C4 aldehydes.
  • lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol
  • glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ketones and short chain C2-C4 aldehydes.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 95% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5 and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5 and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 10 and 40% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has a naturalness index greater than or equal to 80% carbon 14 ( 14 C) determined according to one of the following ASTM standards D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has a naturalness index greater than or equal to 85% carbon 14 ( 14 C) determined according to one of the following ASTM standards D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has a naturalness index greater than or equal to 90% carbon 14 ( 14 C) determined according to one of the following ASTM standards D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has a naturalness index greater than or equal to 95% carbon 14 ( 14 C) determined according to one of the following ASTM standards D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 85% by weight of its ingredients is biosourced relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 50% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 75% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 90% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that 50% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that 75% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that 90% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the mixture according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for lipstick, long-lasting lipstick or lip glosses.
  • the term "long-lasting" lipstick or also called “non-transfer” lipstick means a lipstick which does not leave marks, is water-resistant and sometimes in fat.
  • lip gloss or even called “gloss” means a makeup product which gives a shiny and/or wet appearance to the lips, and sometimes, to color or even glitter them. Some of these lip glosses are transparent and can be applied over a classic lipstick to add a shine effect.
  • the base contains different types of ingredients selected essentially on their organoleptic properties: volatile solvents to facilitate application and hold; oils to provide slipperiness and ease of application; waxes, to fix consistency and hardness; fatty substances such as pasty fatty substances or gelling agents to adjust the smoothness and ease of use.
  • additives providing specific properties can be added to these ingredients: polymers, absorbent powders, stabilizing additives (antioxidants, preservatives, etc.), perfume and active ingredients where appropriate.
  • the cosmetic compositions for long-lasting lipstick, or lip glosses comprising the mixture according to the invention have excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic qualities such as ease of application, resistance to water, good hold, intense and luminous color.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the mixture according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic eye makeup composition.
  • the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of a cosmetic mascara or eyeliner composition.
  • Continuous oil phase mascaras are also called “waterproof mascara”
  • the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions of mascaras with a continuous oil phase.
  • Continuous oil phase mascaras are mainly based on the use of wax or continuous oil phase emulsion. The goal is to form a continuous film on the surface of the eyelash, a film that is perfectly water resistant.
  • the mascara composition comprises in particular a fatty phase and a pigment part and this composition can optionally comprise an aqueous phase.
  • the mascara composition comprising the mixture according to the invention comprises a mass percentage less than or equal to 10% in water relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the mascara composition comprising the mixture according to the invention is free of an aqueous phase.
  • the fatty phase includes in particular volatile solvents, oils, surfactants, waxes, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, and preservatives.
  • the pigment part includes water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearls and flakes.
  • additives providing specific properties can be added to these ingredients: polymers, absorbent powders, stabilizing additives such as antioxidants, perfume and active ingredients where appropriate.
  • cosmetic compositions for the eyes such as those of mascara or eyeliner, comprising the mixture according to the invention have excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic qualities such as ease of application, water resistance, good hold and a more intense color.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the mixture according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic composition applicable to the skin.
  • the mixture according to the invention is particularly used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions such as a makeup primer or base, a blush, an eye shadow, a foundation or a makeup remover formulation. .
  • Foundation means a formulation intended to unify the epidermis and lightly color it. It must be applied in an even layer but also allow for blending, on the face and part of the neck.
  • base, primer or even makeup base is understood to mean a cosmetic composition which makes it possible to blur skin imperfections and prevents makeup from settling into wrinkles and pores throughout the day.
  • this formulation makes it possible to perfect the skin before applying foundation, blush, etc.
  • Blush or commonly called “blush” is a cosmetic formulation intended to mimic and reinforce a “rosy cheek” visual.
  • eye shadow or commonly called “eye-shadow” we mean cosmetic formulations applicable to the eyelid in order to highlight the eyes by creating color contrasts.
  • makeup remover formulation we mean a makeup remover oil but also a biphasic makeup remover formulation which makes it possible to clean the face of makeup while respecting the skin of its user.
  • make-up remover formulations can be in the form of a make-up remover oil made up of oils and different fatty substances.
  • They can also be in the form of a biphasic formulation comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase.
  • the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions applicable to the skin, in particular foundation and/or base compositions which can be formulated in a fluid or solid form of the type powder, loose compacted or cast.
  • compositions can in particular, independently of each other, be presented in an anhydrous form or in the form of an emulsion.
  • emulsions can be presented in different forms, namely in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion but also under certain conditions in the form of multiple W/O/W (water/oil/water) emulsions. or even O/W/O (oil/water/oil) combining at least one aqueous phase and one fatty phase.
  • the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of a cosmetic composition applicable to the skin comprising at least one aqueous phase and one fatty phase.
  • the aqueous phase consists essentially of water.
  • the fatty phase contains different types of ingredients selected essentially on their organoleptic properties: volatile solvents to facilitate the application and hold of oils to give slipperiness and ease of application of waxes, to fix the consistency and hardness fatty substances such as pasty fatty substances or gelling agents to adjust the smoothness and ease of use.
  • volatile solvents to facilitate the application and hold of oils to give slipperiness and ease of application of waxes
  • fix the consistency and hardness fatty substances such as pasty fatty substances or gelling agents to adjust the smoothness and ease of use.
  • the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of a cosmetic composition applicable to the skin comprising a pigmentary part.
  • the cosmetic compositions applicable to the skin such as bases or primers, foundations or powders, comprising the mixture according to the invention have excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic properties such as ease of application. application, water resistance, good hold, more intense and luminous color.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the mixture according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair.
  • the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers such as hair toners, hair dyes, hair styling products, shampoos, conditioners hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair treatment products, hair sprays, hair masks, hair care products, hair treatment products, perm setting solutions, hair conditioning products hair styling, shampoos for colored hair, hair fixatives, hair holding products, hair styling preparations, leave-in hair products, curling iron lotions, setting mousses, gels hair products, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers such as hair toners, hair dyes, hair styling products, shampoos, conditioners hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair treatment products, hair sprays, hair masks, hair care products, hair treatment products, perm setting solutions, hair conditioning products hair styling, shampoos for colored hair, hair fixatives, hair holding products, hair styling preparations, leave-in hair products, curling iron lotions, setting mousses, gels hair products, hair waxes or combinations
  • the cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the mixture according to the invention have excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic properties such as ease of application, good hold , a luminous color and an intense shine.
  • the type of mobile and the speed of the mobile are adapted to the measurement range.
  • the result of the measurement is the dynamic viscosity expressed in cP or mPa.s.
  • the quantity of free acids is determined using the NF EN ISO 660 method.
  • the quantity of free hydroxyl is determined using the NF ISO 4629 4629-2 method.
  • the density is measured using a DENSITO device from Mettler Toledo.
  • the refractive index is measured using an automatic device of the Model RFM330-M type, Belligham and Stanley Ltd.
  • Example 1 process for preparing a mixture according to the invention
  • C36 diacid (Pripol 1009, Croda), 54 kg of diol are loaded into a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and a vacuum system.
  • C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda) and 41.4 kg of squalane (Squalive, Biosynthis).
  • the mixture obtained, 138 kg, is composed of 70% polyester and 30% squalane by mass.
  • the mixture according to the invention has a viscosity of 384,515 cSt at 40°C, a density of 0.8699 at 40°C, an acid number of 0.34 mg KOH/g, a refractive index of 1 .4775 at 20°C and a hydroxyl number of 10 mg KOH/g.
  • Example 2 process for preparing a mixture according to the invention
  • C36 diacid (Pripol 2009, Croda), 54 kg of diol are loaded into a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and a vacuum system.
  • C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda), 41.4 kg of squalene (Vegetable squalene ST, Biosynthis) and 0.1 kg of methanesulfonic acid.
  • the mixture obtained, 138 kg, is composed of 70% polyester and 30% squalene by mass.
  • the mixture according to the invention has a viscosity of 266,007 cSt at 40°C, a density of 0.8699 at 40°C, an acid number of 0.81 mg KOH/g, a refractive index of 1 .4906 at 20°C and a hydroxyl number of 10 mg KOH/g.
  • Example 3 process for preparing a mixture according to the invention
  • C36 diacid (Pripol 1009, Croda), 54 kg of diol are loaded into a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and a vacuum system.
  • C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda), 41.4 kg of a mixture of C16-C18 alkanes (Vegelight 1618, Biosynthis) and 0.1 kg of tin oxalate.
  • the temperature of the reaction medium is then lowered to 100°C and the pressure is returned to atmospheric pressure.
  • the mixture according to the invention has a viscosity of 120080 cSt at 40°C, a density of 0.8436 at 40°C, an acid number of 0.20 mg KOH/g, a refractive index of 1, 4697 of 20°C and a hydroxyl number less than 10 mg KOH/g.
  • Example 4 cosmetic hair serum composition comprising a mixture according to the invention
  • a cosmetic hair serum composition is prepared from the mixture according to the invention prepared according to the process described in Example 1.
  • This mixture is composed of 70% by mass of polyester resulting from the reaction between the diacid C36 (Pripol 1009, Croda) and the diol C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda) and 30% by mass of squalane.
  • phase 1 The ingredients of phase 1 are dispersed using Ultra-TurraxTM.
  • Phases 1 and 2 are then mixed to obtain a hair serum.
  • the cosmetic hair serum composition comprising a mixture according to the invention has the following characteristics: a refractive index of 1.4348 at 20°C and a viscosity of 33 cSt at 25°C.
  • a cosmetic mascara composition is prepared from a mixture according to the invention prepared according to the process described in Example 2.
  • Phase 4 is gradually added to the mixtures of phases 1, 2 and 3 with vigorous stirring.
  • Example 7 Process for preparing an ultra-viscous viscoplast.
  • This composition has the following characteristics: a viscosity of 1,600,000 cST, a density of 0.9500 at 40°C, an acid index of 1.7 mg KOH/g and a refractive index at 20°C of 1. 4853.
  • Viscoplast prepared according to a protocol of the prior art such as VISCOPLAST GREEN 3,000, having a viscosity of 3,000 cSt, and has an average molecular mass of 20,602 g/mol measured by Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) as well as a density of 0.9500.
  • SEC Size Exclusion Chromatography
  • Viscoplasts obtained by a process according to the invention have both lower hydroxyl indices than those of the prior art, while having higher viscosities and molecular masses.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a mixture comprising: a) at least one polyester resulting from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol bearing at least two hydroxyl functions, the at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 200 000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH/g, b) at least one biobased hydrocarbon compound. The invention also relates to the process for obtaining the polyester and to the polyester. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture according to the invention and at least one compound chosen from non-volatile oils, volatile oils, glossy oils, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, waxes, antioxidants, pigments, dyes, surfactants and an aqueous phase, and mixtures thereof.

Description

POLYESTER, MELANGE VISQUEUX, PROCEDE DE PREPARATION ET COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE POLYESTER, VISCOUS MIXTURE, PREPARATION PROCESS AND COSMETIC COMPOSITION

[0001] La présente demande concerne un mélange visqueux comprenant au moins un polyester et au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. The present application relates to a viscous mixture comprising at least one polyester and at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.

[0002] La présente demande concerne également un procédé de préparation d'un tel mélange. [0002] The present application also relates to a process for preparing such a mixture.

[0003] Elle concerne également le polyester et son procédé de préparation. [0003] It also concerns polyester and its preparation process.

[0004] De plus, l'invention concerne le composé polyester et la composition cosmétique comprenant le mélange selon l'invention. [0004] Furthermore, the invention relates to the polyester compound and the cosmetic composition comprising the mixture according to the invention.

[0005] Dans le cadre de cette demande, un certain nombre de définitions doivent être données. [0005] As part of this request, a certain number of definitions must be given.

[0006] On appelle « alcane » un hydrocarbure saturé étant constitué uniquement d'atomes de carbone et d'hydrogènes liés entre eux par des liaisons covalentes simples dont la formule générale est CnH2n+2. “Alkane” is a saturated hydrocarbon consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms linked together by simple covalent bonds whose general formula is C n H2n+2.

[0007] On appelle « alcane linéaire » un alcane dans lequel chaque atome de carbone est lié au maximum à deux atomes de carbone. “Linear alkane” is an alkane in which each carbon atom is linked to a maximum of two carbon atoms.

[0008] On appelle « alcane ramifié » un alcane dans lequel certains atomes de carbone sont liés à trois, voire quatre atomes de carbone. “Branched alkane” is an alkane in which certain carbon atoms are linked to three or even four carbon atoms.

[0009] On appelle « alcane en Cx » un alcane constitué de x atomes de carbone, ledit alcane pouvant être linéaire ou ramifié. Par exemple, le dodécane est un alcane en C12. “C x alkane” is an alkane made up of x carbon atoms, said alkane being able to be linear or branched. For example, dodecane is a C12 alkane.

[00010] On appelle « alcane en C>x » un alcane constitué d'au moins x+1 atomes de carbone, ledit alcane pouvant être linéaire ou ramifié. Par exemple, le dodécane est un alcane linéaire en en C> 10 ou alcane en C12. [00010] “C>x alkane” means an alkane consisting of at least x+1 carbon atoms, said alkane being able to be linear or branched. For example, dodecane is a linear C>10 alkane or C12 alkane.

[00011] On appelle « alcane en C>x» un alcane constitué d'au moins x atomes de carbone, ledit alcane pouvant être linéaire ou ramifié, Par exemple le 2,3,6- triméthylheptane (CAS 4032-93-3) est un alcane en C> 10. [00011] “C>x alkane” is an alkane consisting of at least x carbon atoms, said alkane being able to be linear or branched, for example 2,3,6-trimethylheptane (CAS 4032-93-3) is a C>10 alkane.

[00012] On appelle « alcane en Cx-Cy » un alcane constitué de x à y atomes de carbone, le dit alcane pouvant être linéaire ou ramifié. Par exemple, les alcanes en Ci- C2 sont le méthane et l'éthane. [00012] “C x -C y alkane” is called an alkane consisting of x to y carbon atoms, the said alkane being able to be linear or branched. For example, the Ci-C2 alkanes are methane and ethane.

[00013] On appelle « isoalcane » un alcane ramifié comportant au moins un atome de carbone lié à au moins trois atomes de carbone dont un groupe méthyle. “Isoalkane” means a branched alkane comprising at least one carbon atom linked to at least three carbon atoms including a methyl group.

[00014] On appelle « polyester » un polymère dont la chaine principale consiste en un enchainement alterné de motifs issus d'au moins un acide dicarboxylique et de motifs issus d'au moins un alcool comportant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, ces motifs étant liés entre eux par des fonctions ester. [00015] On entend par « composé hydrocarboné » un composé constitué essentiellement d'atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène. [00014] “Polyester” means a polymer whose main chain consists of an alternating sequence of units derived from at least one dicarboxylic acid and units derived from at least one alcohol comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, these units being linked. between them by ester functions. [00015] The term “hydrocarbon compound” means a compound consisting essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[00016] On appelle « indice hydroxyle » la quantité d'hydroxyles libres mesurée selon la méthode NF ISO 4629 4629-2. L'indice hydroxyle est exprimé en mg KOH/g. [00016] The quantity of free hydroxyl measured according to the NF ISO 4629 4629-2 method is called “hydroxyl index”. The hydroxyl number is expressed in mg KOH/g.

[00017] Au sens de la présente invention, on appelle « viscosité » la viscosité cinématique qui est le quotient de la viscosité dynamique par la masse volumique ou densité du fluide. La viscosité cinématique est communément exprimée en centistokes (cSt) ou mm2. s -1. [00017] For the purposes of the present invention, “viscosity” is the kinematic viscosity which is the quotient of the dynamic viscosity by the density or density of the fluid. Kinematic viscosity is commonly expressed in centistokes (cSt) or mm 2 . s -1 .

[00018] On appelle « pourcentage massique » le rapport de la masse d'un premier composé par rapport à la masse totale d'un mélange de composés ou composition, ramené à un pourcentage. Par exemple, si 10 grammes d'un composé y sont présents dans un mélange z ayant une masse totale de 100 grammes, alors le pourcentage massique de y dans z est 10%. [00018] We call “mass percentage” the ratio of the mass of a first compound relative to the total mass of a mixture of compounds or composition, reduced to a percentage. For example, if 10 grams of a compound y are present in a mixture z having a total mass of 100 grams, then the mass percentage of y in z is 10%.

[00019] Les polyesters selon l'invention sont caractérisés par leur masse moléculaire, celle-ci est mesurée par la méthode dite de Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) et elle est exprimée en g/mol. [00019] The polyesters according to the invention are characterized by their molecular mass, this is measured by the so-called Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) method and is expressed in g/mol.

[00020] Les polyesters selon l'invention sont caractérisés par leur colorimétrie, celle-ci est déterminée par la méthode APHA-HAZEN selon la norme ASTM D 1209 et elle est exprimée en APHA. The polyesters according to the invention are characterized by their colorimetry, this is determined by the APHA-HAZEN method according to the ASTM D 1209 standard and it is expressed in APHA.

[00021] On qualifie de « biosourcé » un composé ou une composition organique dont le carbone organique présent dans le composé ou la composition est à 100% d'origine végétale (14C) par une analyse au radiocarbone selon l'une des normes suivantes ASTM D6866, EN 16640 ou EN 16785-1. [00021] We qualify as “biosourced” a compound or an organic composition whose organic carbon present in the compound or composition is 100% of plant origin ( 14 C) by a radiocarbon analysis according to one of the following standards ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.

[00022] On appelle « indice de naturalité » d'une composition organique le pourcentage de carbone organique d'origine végétale (14C) déterminé par une analyse au radiocarbone selon l'une des normes suivantes ASTM D6866, EN 16640 ou EN 16785-1. [00022] The percentage of organic carbon of plant origin ( 14 C) determined by a radiocarbon analysis according to one of the following standards ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785- is called the “naturalness index” of an organic composition. 1.

[00023] Dans les produits cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, un contrôle fin de la structuration du produit ou de sa viscosité est nécessaire par rapport à l'application visée et représente un des éléments critiques quant à l'appréciation du produit par l'utilisateur. Par exemple, un rouge à lèvres, un fond de teint ou un fard à paupières ne doivent pas couler une fois appliqués sur la peau alors qu'un produit pour cheveux comme un gel ou sérum par exemple doit pouvoir être facilement répandu par l'utilisateur sur la chevelure. [00023] In cosmetic or dermatological products, fine control of the structuring of the product or its viscosity is necessary in relation to the intended application and represents one of the critical elements regarding the appreciation of the product by the user. For example, a lipstick, foundation or eye shadow should not flow once applied to the skin, whereas a hair product such as a gel or serum, for example, should be able to be easily spread by the user. on the hair.

[00024] Les ingrédients permettant d'ajuster les caractéristiques structurelles, épaississantes et gélifiantes d'un produit cosmétique comprennent les cires, les charges minérales à base de silice notamment, des argiles hydrophobisées comme les bentonites, des sels métalliques d'acides gras, des esters d'acides gras et des dérivés de sucres ou oligosaccharides fonctionnalisés par des acides gras comme le palmitate de dextrane ou les esters de sucrose. [00024] The ingredients making it possible to adjust the structural, thickening and gelling characteristics of a cosmetic product include waxes, mineral fillers based on silica in particular, hydrophobized clays such as bentonites, metallic salts of fatty acids, fatty acid esters and derivatives sugars or oligosaccharides functionalized with fatty acids such as dextran palmitate or sucrose esters.

[00025] Les agents structurants disponibles présentent des désavantages. Les cires, par exemple, peuvent laisser une sensation trop grasse sur la peau et conduire à un aspect mat, une perte de la brillance. [00025] The available structuring agents have disadvantages. Waxes, for example, can leave the skin feeling too greasy and lead to a matte appearance and loss of shine.

[00026] Les produits structurants doivent donc permettre un ajustement fin de la consistance du produit sans impacter de façon négative la sensation au toucher, la durabilité du produit, la coloration et la brillance notamment. Il y a donc un besoin à proposer des produits structurants « spectateurs » vis-à-vis des autres caractéristiques du produit ou encore mieux qui permettent de les améliorer. De tels produits présentent un fort intérêt car ils peuvent permettre de diminuer le nombre d'ingrédients utilisés dans une composition cosmétique. [00026] Structuring products must therefore allow fine adjustment of the consistency of the product without negatively impacting the sensation to the touch, the durability of the product, the coloring and the shine in particular. There is therefore a need to offer structuring products that are “spectators” with respect to the other characteristics of the product or even better which allow them to be improved. Such products are of great interest because they can reduce the number of ingredients used in a cosmetic composition.

[00027] Les polyesters issus de la condensation d'acides carboxyliques gras d'origine naturelle et de polyols ont été considérés ces dernières années comme pouvant permettre d'ajuster la consistance des produits cosmétiques tout en permettant de conserver, voire d'améliorer des propriétés comme la brillance. [00027] Polyesters resulting from the condensation of fatty carboxylic acids of natural origin and polyols have been considered in recent years as being able to adjust the consistency of cosmetic products while making it possible to preserve or even improve properties. like shine.

[00028] La société NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL propose des oligomères d'esters issus de dimères d'acides dilinoléiques et de dimères diols dilinoléiques particuliers sous la dénomination commerciale LUSPLAN DD-DA5® et LUSPLAN DD-DA7®. Ces oligoesters obtenus par polycondensation dans un solvant heptane présentent une coloration jaunâtre et ne peuvent se substituer à un agent épaississant ou gélifiant en raison de leur faible viscosité. De plus, l'indice hydroxyle du produit commercial LUSPLAN DD- DA7® est compris entre 50 et 55 mg KOH/g, celui-ci est donc plus élevé que les indices hydroxyles des polyesters selon l'invention. [00028] The company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL offers ester oligomers derived from dilinoleic acid dimers and particular dilinoleic diol dimers under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and LUSPLAN DD-DA7®. These oligoesters obtained by polycondensation in a heptane solvent have a yellowish color and cannot replace a thickening or gelling agent due to their low viscosity. In addition, the hydroxyl index of the commercial product LUSPLAN DD-DA7® is between 50 and 55 mg KOH/g, it is therefore higher than the hydroxyl indexes of the polyesters according to the invention.

[00029] La société L'OREAL a déposé deux demandes de brevet, W02013191302 et WO2018119762, dans lesquelles sont divulguées des compositions cosmétiques contenant des polyesters, possédant des indices hydroxyles élevés, de type PLANDOOL G. Ces polyesters sont obtenus par la condensation de dimères d'acide et de dimères d'alcool, en présence de monoalcools tels que l'alcool béhénylique et/ou des dérivés de phytostérol. La présence de ces réactifs permet de convertir certains des groupements hydroxyles libres issus de la réaction de condensation. [00029] The company L'OREAL has filed two patent applications, WO2013191302 and WO2018119762, in which cosmetic compositions containing polyesters, having high hydroxyl indices, of the PLANDOOL G type are disclosed. These polyesters are obtained by the condensation of dimers acid and alcohol dimers, in the presence of monoalcohols such as behenyl alcohol and/or phytosterol derivatives. The presence of these reagents makes it possible to convert some of the free hydroxyl groups resulting from the condensation reaction.

[00030] Le même genre d'oligomères est divulgué dans le brevet JP2018123117, au nom de la société NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL. Ces polyesters sont obtenus par la condensation entre un dimère d'acide et un dimère diol à chaud et à pression atmosphérique. Les produits ainsi obtenus sont par la suite dilués à 50 w/w % dans un mélange de paraffine liquide et de palmitate d'éthylhexyle, en proportion 1 : 1. En revanche, les conditions expérimentales utilisées dans cette demande de brevet ne permettent pas d'obtenir des polyesters finaux comparables à ceux de la présente invention car leur taux de polymérisation sera plus faible et donc leur indice d'hydroxyle sera plus important du fait d'un plus grand nombre de groupements fonctionnels n'ayant pas réagi, et donc laissés libres. [00030] The same type of oligomers is disclosed in patent JP2018123117, in the name of the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL. These polyesters are obtained by the condensation between an acid dimer and a diol dimer at heat and at atmospheric pressure. The products thus obtained are subsequently diluted to 50 w/w% in a mixture of liquid paraffin and ethylhexyl palmitate, in a 1:1 proportion. On the other hand, the experimental conditions used in this patent application do not allow 'obtain final polyesters comparable to those of the present invention because their polymerization rate will be lower and therefore their hydroxyl index will be higher due to a greater number of functional groups having not reacted, and therefore left free.

[00031] Des polyesters issus notamment d'acides gras ont aussi été proposés par la société CRODA dans les demandes de brevet EP1962790A1 et EP2004137A1. Ces polyesters sont obtenus par condensation de 3 réactifs : un acide dicarboxylique, un polyol portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles et un acide gras monocarboxylique en C16-C30. [00032] La Demanderesse a aussi proposé des polyesters obtenus par condensation entre l'acide dilinoléique et le 1,4-butanediol, polyesters disponibles sous la dénomination commerciale Viscoplast 14436H. Ces polyesters liquides de faible viscosité ont notamment été combinés à une phase grasse dans la demande de brevet FR2931670A1 de la société L'OREAL. [00031] Polyesters derived in particular from fatty acids have also been proposed by the company CRODA in patent applications EP1962790A1 and EP2004137A1. These polyesters are obtained by condensation of 3 reagents: a dicarboxylic acid, a polyol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions and a C16-C30 monocarboxylic fatty acid. [00032] The Applicant has also proposed polyesters obtained by condensation between dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, polyesters available under the trade name Viscoplast 14436H. These low viscosity liquid polyesters were notably combined with a fatty phase in patent application FR2931670A1 from the company L'OREAL.

[00033] La société NITTO DENKO CORPORATION dans la demande EP2853573 présente la fabrication de polyesters utilisés, après réticulation avec des isocyanates, dans des compositions adhésives à appliquer sur la peau. Ces polyesters sont obtenus par condensation entre un dimère d'acide et un dimère d'alcool. Ces condensations sont réalisées soit à très basse pression et sans élimination de l'eau, et de préférence en deux étapes, soit à pression atmosphérique mais avec distillation de l'eau générée au cours de la réaction. La première étape est réalisée à une température comprise entre 170 et 190 °C sous un vide compris entre 7 et 13 mbar et la seconde étape à une pression encore plus faible, comprise entre 2 et 8 mbar, et à une température comprise entre 215 et 235 °C. Contrairement aux polyesters selon l'invention, il est nécessaire que ceux-ci présentent des fonctions hydroxyles libres pour permettre de les réticuler avec des dérivés de type isocyanate. [00033] The company NITTO DENKO CORPORATION in application EP2853573 presents the manufacture of polyesters used, after crosslinking with isocyanates, in adhesive compositions to be applied to the skin. These polyesters are obtained by condensation between an acid dimer and an alcohol dimer. These condensations are carried out either at very low pressure and without elimination of water, and preferably in two stages, or at atmospheric pressure but with distillation of the water generated during the reaction. The first stage is carried out at a temperature between 170 and 190 °C under a vacuum between 7 and 13 mbar and the second stage at an even lower pressure, between 2 and 8 mbar, and at a temperature between 215 and 13 mbar. 235°C. Unlike the polyesters according to the invention, it is necessary for these to have free hydroxyl functions to enable them to be crosslinked with isocyanate type derivatives.

[00034] De par leur caractère biodégradable et potentiels agents structurants, les polyesters obtenus par condensation d'acides gras et d'alcools gras présentent un intérêt certain pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques. [00034] Due to their biodegradable nature and potential structuring agents, polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are of certain interest for the preparation of cosmetic compositions.

[00035] Leur utilisation a été jusqu'à présent limitée en raison de leur faible viscosité d'où l'utilisation d'agents épaississants ou gélifiants lipophiles additionnels, notamment des polymères synthétiques non biodégradables tels que des polyorganosiloxanes ou des copolymères de type polystyrène/copoly(éthylène- propylène) ou polystyrène/copoly(éthylène-butylène). [00035] Their use has until now been limited due to their low viscosity, hence the use of additional thickening or lipophilic gelling agents, in particular non-biodegradable synthetic polymers such as polyorganosiloxanes or copolymers of the polystyrene/type. copoly(ethylene-propylene) or polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene).

[00036] La multiplication des ingrédients complexifie le travail du formulateur et nécessite un dosage extrêmement précis de ces derniers pour obtenir des propriétés d'intérêt pour l'utilisateur et également s'assurer de la stabilité de ces propriétés dans le temps. [00037] De manière surprenante, il a été mis en évidence que des polyesters de haute viscosité et présentant un faible indice hydroxyle pouvaient être obtenus par une réaction de condensation en présence d'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [00038] Le mélange selon l'invention comprenant au moins un polyester et au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présente une viscosité telle qu'il permet de limiter, voire de s'affranchir de l'utilisation d'agents épaississants ou gélifiants dans des compositions cosmétiques. [00036] The multiplication of ingredients complicates the work of the formulator and requires an extremely precise dosage of the latter to obtain properties of interest to the user and also to ensure the stability of these properties over time. [00037] Surprisingly, it was demonstrated that polyesters of high viscosity and having a low hydroxyl index could be obtained by a condensation reaction in the presence of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound. [00038] The mixture according to the invention comprising at least one polyester and at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound has a viscosity such that it makes it possible to limit or even eliminate the use of thickening or gelling agents in compositions. cosmetics.

[00039] De plus, le procédé de préparation du mélange selon l'invention permet la préparation de compositions cosmétiques pouvant présenter un indice de naturalité supérieur ou égal à 90%, plus avantageusement supérieur ou égal à 95%. [00039] Furthermore, the process for preparing the mixture according to the invention allows the preparation of cosmetic compositions which can have a naturalness index greater than or equal to 90%, more advantageously greater than or equal to 95%.

[00040] L'invention concerne un mélange comprenant : a) au moins un polyester issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, l'au moins un polyester présentant une viscosité d'au moins 200 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 30 mg KOH/g. b) au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [00040] The invention relates to a mixture comprising: a) at least one polyester resulting from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, the at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH/g. b) at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.

[00041] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 500 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 30 mg KOH/g. [00041] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH/g.

[00042] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 1 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 30 mg KOH/g. [00042] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH/g.

[00043] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 200 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [00043] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.

[00044] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 500 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [00044] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.

[00045] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 1 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [00045] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.

[00046] L'invention concerne également un polyester issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, l'au moins un polyester présentant une viscosité d'au moins 200 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 30 mg KOH/g. [00046] The invention also relates to a polyester resulting from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, the at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 30 mg KOH/g.

[00047] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 500 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 30 mg KOH/g. [00047] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH/g.

[00048] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 1 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 30 mg KOH/g. [00048] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH/g.

[00049] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 200 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [00050] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 500 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [00049] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g. [00050] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.

[00051] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester présente une viscosité d'au moins 1 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [00051] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.

[00052] Dans le cadre de la présente invention, le polyester selon l'invention n'est pas liquide : il ne peut pas s'écouler sous son propre poids à 25°C. [00052] In the context of the present invention, the polyester according to the invention is not liquid: it cannot flow under its own weight at 25°C.

[00053] Le polyester selon l'invention a une viscosité d'au moins 1 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [00053] The polyester according to the invention has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH/g.

[00054] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une viscosité d'au moins 1 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 10 mg KOH/g. [00054] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 10 mg KOH/g.

[00055] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une viscosité d'au moins 1 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 5 mg KOH/g. [00055] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 5 mg KOH/g.

[00056] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une viscosité supérieure ou égale à 2 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [00056] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 2,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 15 mg KOH/g.

[00057] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une viscosité supérieure ou égale à 2 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 10 mg KOH/g. [00057] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 2,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 10 mg KOH/g.

[00058] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une viscosité supérieure ou égale à 2 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 5 mg KOH/g. [00058] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 2,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 5 mg KOH/g.

[00059] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une viscosité supérieure ou égale à 4 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [00059] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 4,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 15 mg KOH/g.

[00060] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une viscosité supérieure ou égale à 4 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 10 mg KOH/g. [00060] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 4,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 10 mg KOH/g.

[00061] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une viscosité supérieure ou égale à 4 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 5 mg KOH/g. [00061] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 4,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 5 mg KOH/g.

[00062] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une masse moléculaire moyenne supérieure ou égale à 100 000 g/mol. [00062] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 100,000 g/mol.

[00063] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une masse moléculaire moyenne supérieure ou égale à 105 000 g/mol. [00063] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 105,000 g/mol.

[00064] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une masse moléculaire moyenne supérieure ou égale à 110 000 g/mol. [00065] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une masse moléculaire moyenne supérieure ou égale à 115 000 g/mol. [00064] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 110,000 g/mol. [00065] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 115,000 g/mol.

[00066] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une masse moléculaire moyenne supérieure ou égale à 120 000 g/mol. [00066] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass greater than or equal to 120,000 g/mol.

[00067] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une masse moléculaire moyenne comprise dans une intervalle de 100 000 à 200 000 g/mol. [00067] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass in a range of 100,000 to 200,000 g/mol.

[00068] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une masse moléculaire moyenne comprise dans une intervalle de 100 000 à 200 000 g/mol. [00068] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass in a range of 100,000 to 200,000 g/mol.

[00069] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une masse moléculaire moyenne comprise dans une intervalle de 100 000 à 200 000 g/mol. [00069] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has an average molecular mass in a range of 100,000 to 200,000 g/mol.

[00070] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention aune coloration inférieure ou égale à 200 sur l'échelle de APHA. [00070] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 200 on the APHA scale.

[00071] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une coloration inférieure ou égale à 175 sur l'échelle APHA. [00071] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 175 on the APHA scale.

[00072] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une coloration inférieure ou égale à 150 sur l'échelle APHA. [00072] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 150 on the APHA scale.

[00073] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une coloration inférieure ou égale à 125 sur l'échelle APHA. [00073] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 125 on the APHA scale.

[00074] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une coloration inférieure ou égale à 100 sur l'échelle APHA. [00074] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 100 on the APHA scale.

[00075] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention a une coloration inférieure ou égale à 75 sur l'échelle APHA. [00075] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention has a coloring less than or equal to 75 on the APHA scale.

[00076] Dans un mode de réalisation préférentiel, le polyester selon l'invention présente a une coloration inférieure ou égale à 50 sur l'échelle APHA. [00076] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester according to the present invention has a coloring less than or equal to 50 on the APHA scale.

[00077] Le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. The polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[00078] Dans un mode de réalisation, Le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, et en l'absence d'au moins un monoalcool. [00078] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, and in the absence of at least one monoalcohol.

[00079] Dans un mode de réalisation préférentiel, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, et en l'absence d'alcool béhénylique et/ou de phytostérol. [00079] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, and in the absence of behenyl alcohol and/or phytosterol.

[00080] Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « réaction » une réaction de condensation. [00081] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique d'origine végétale et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles d'origine végétale. [00080] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “reaction” means a condensation reaction. [00081] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer of plant origin and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions of plant origin.

[00082] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique d'origine végétale et un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles d'origine végétale. [00082] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer of plant origin and an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions of plant origin.

[00083] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique d'origine végétale et deux alcools portant deux fonctions hydroxyles d'origine végétale. [00083] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer of plant origin and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions of plant origin.

[00084] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00084] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[00085] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00085] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[00086] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00086] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[00087] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles. [00087] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[00088] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et un alcool portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles. [00088] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[00089] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins deux alcools portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00089] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[00090] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins deux alcools portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00090] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[00091] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et deux alcools portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00091] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[00092] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et deux alcools portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00093] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00092] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions. [00093] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[00094] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique et un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00094] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[00095] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique et un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00095] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[00096] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles. [00096] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[00097] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique et un alcool portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles. [00097] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[00098] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins deux alcools portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00098] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[00099] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins deux alcools portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [00099] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[000100] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique et deux alcools portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000100] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[000101] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique et deux alcools portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000101] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[000102] On entend par dimère acide dicarboxylique un composé obtenu par un procédé comprenant une réaction de dimérisation d'un composé portant une fonction acide carboxylique. [000102] By dicarboxylic acid dimer is meant a compound obtained by a process comprising a dimerization reaction of a compound carrying a carboxylic acid function.

[000103] Ainsi, l'au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique en Cn est obtenu par un procédé comprenant une étape de dimérisation d'un composé en Cm avec n = 2 x m. [000103] Thus, the at least one C n dicarboxylic acid dimer is obtained by a process comprising a step of dimerization of a C m compound with n = 2 x m.

[000104] L'au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé hydrocarboné en C8-C44 linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, pouvant comporter un ou plusieurs cycles et portant 2 fonctions acide carboxylique. [000104] The at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer is a linear or branched C8-C44 hydrocarbon compound, saturated or unsaturated, which may comprise one or more cycles and carry 2 carboxylic acid functions.

[000105] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est choisi parmi les dimères acide dicarboxylique d'origine végétale. [000106] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est choisi parmi les dimères acide dicarboxylique insaturés. [000105] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is chosen from dicarboxylic acid dimers of plant origin. [000106] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is chosen from unsaturated dicarboxylic acid dimers.

[000107] Dans un mode de réalisation préférentiel, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est choisi parmi les dimères acide dicarboxylique saturés. [000107] In a preferred embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is chosen from saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers.

[000108] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé en C28-C44. [000108] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C28-C44 compound.

[000109] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé en C36. [000109] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C36 compound.

[000110] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé en C36 issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique. [000111] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé insaturé en C36 issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique. [000110] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C36 compound derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid. [000111] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C36 unsaturated compound derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid.

[000112] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé saturé en C36 issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique. [000112] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a saturated C36 compound derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid.

[000113] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé en C36 choisi dans le groupe constitué par les produits commercialisés sous les marques Empol 1008, Pripol 1013, Pripol 1009, Jaric D60, Jaric D70, Jaric D75, Jaric D76, Radiacid 0960, Radiacid 0975, Radiacid 0976, Radiacid 0977 et Radiacid 0978. [000113] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C36 compound chosen from the group consisting of products marketed under the brands Empol 1008, Pripol 1013, Pripol 1009, Jaric D60, Jaric D70, Jaric D75, Jaric D76 , Radiacid 0960, Radiacid 0975, Radiacid 0976, Radiacid 0977 and Radiacid 0978.

[000114] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique en C36 est le composé de numéro CAS 68783-41-5. [000114] In one embodiment, the C36 dicarboxylic acid dimer is the compound with CAS number 68783-41-5.

[000115] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique en C36 est le produit commercialisé sous la marque Pripol 1009. [000115] In one embodiment, the C36 dicarboxylic acid dimer is the product marketed under the brand Pripol 1009.

[000116] Il est bien connu que les produits commerciaux de dimère acide dicarboxylique en C36 peuvent aussi comprendre du Cis (« monomère ») et du C36 (« trimère ») en faible quantité. [000116] It is well known that commercial C36 dicarboxylic acid dimer products can also include Cis (“monomer”) and C36 (“trimer”) in small quantities.

[000117] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé en C44. [000117] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C44 compound.

[000118] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé insaturé en C44 issu de l'acide euricique. [000118] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C44 unsaturated compound derived from euricic acid.

[000119] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé saturé en C44 issu de l'acide euricique. [000119] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a saturated C44 compound derived from euricic acid.

[000120] Dans un mode de réalisation, le dimère acide dicarboxylique est un composé en C44 choisi dans le groupe constitué par les produits commercialisés sous les marques Pripol 1004 et Radiacid 0994. [000121] Il est bien connu que les produits commerciaux de dimère acide dicarboxylique en C44 peuvent aussi comprendre du C22 (« monomère ») et du (« trimère ») en faible quantité. [000120] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C44 compound chosen from the group consisting of products marketed under the brands Pripol 1004 and Radiacid 0994. [000121] It is well known that commercial C44 dicarboxylic acid dimer products can also include C22 (“monomer”) and (“trimer”) in small quantities.

[000122] L'au moins un alcool utilisé dans la réaction permettant l'obtention du polyester selon l'invention est un composé hydrocarboné en C2-C44, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, pouvant comporter un ou plusieurs cycles et portant au moins 2 fonctions hydroxyles. [000122] The at least one alcohol used in the reaction making it possible to obtain the polyester according to the invention is a C2-C44 hydrocarbon compound, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, which may comprise one or more cycles and bearing at least 2 hydroxyl functions.

[000123] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un alcool linéaire saturé. [000123] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a saturated linear alcohol.

[000124] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un alcool linéaire insaturé. [000124] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is an unsaturated linear alcohol.

[000125] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un alcool ramifié saturé. [000125] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a saturated branched alcohol.

[000126] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un alcool ramifié insaturé. [000126] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is an unsaturated branched alcohol.

[000127] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un alcool d'origine végétale. [000127] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is an alcohol of plant origin.

[000128] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000128] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[000129] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles choisi dans le groupe constitué par le 1,3-propanediol, le 1,2- butanediol, le 1,3-butanediol, le 1,4-butanediol, le 1,5-pentanediol, le 1,6-hexanediol et le (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca-9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), seuls ou en mélange. [000129] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is an alcohol bearing two hydroxyl functions chosen from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9, 12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), alone or in mixture.

[000130] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles choisi dans le groupe constitué par le 1,3-propanediol, le 1,4- butanediol, le 1,5-pentanediol et le (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9- dienoxy]octadéca-9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5). [000130] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is an alcohol bearing two hydroxyl functions chosen from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).

[000131] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est le 1,3-propanediol. [000131] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is 1,3-propanediol.

[000132] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est le 1,4-butanediol. [000132] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is 1,4-butanediol.

[000133] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est le 1,5-pentanediol. [000133] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is 1,5-pentanediol.

[000134] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est le (9Z,12Z)-18-[000134] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is (9Z,12Z)-18-

[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca-9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32- 5). [(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).

[000135] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles est le produit commercial de la marque Pripol 2033. [000135] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions is the commercial product of the Pripol 2033 brand.

[000136] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange d'au moins deux alcools. [000137] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange d'au moins deux alcools choisis dans le groupe constitué par le 1,3-propanediol, le 1,2- butanediol, le 1,3-butanediol, le 1,4-butanediol, le 1,5-pentanediol, le 1,6-hexanediol et le (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca-9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5). [000136] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of at least two alcohols. [000137] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of at least two alcohols chosen from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol , 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca- 9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).

[000138] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange de deux alcools. [000138] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two alcohols.

[000139] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange de deux alcool linéaires. [000139] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two linear alcohols.

[000140] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange d'un alcool linéaire et d'un alcool ramifié. [000140] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of a linear alcohol and a branched alcohol.

[000141] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange de deux alcools ramifiés. [000141] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two branched alcohols.

[000142] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange de deux alcools saturés. [000142] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two saturated alcohols.

[000143] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange d'un alcool saturé et d'un alcool saturé. [000143] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of a saturated alcohol and a saturated alcohol.

[000144] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange de deux alcools saturés. [000144] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two saturated alcohols.

[000145] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange de deux alcools choisis dans le groupe constitué par le 1,3-propanediol, le 1,2-butanediol, le 1,3- butanediol, le 1,4-butanediol, le 1,5-pentanediol, le 1,6-hexanediol et le (9Z,12Z)-18- [(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca-9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32- 5). [000145] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two alcohols chosen from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12 -dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).

[000146] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange de 1,4- butanediol et de (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca- 9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5). [000146] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of 1,4-butanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy ]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).

[000147] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcools portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles. [000147] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is chosen from the group consisting of alcohols carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[000148] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un alcool portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles choisi dans le groupe constitué par le glycérol, le threitol, l'érythritol, l'inositol, l'arabitol, le xylitol et le sorbitol. [000148] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is an alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions chosen from the group consisting of glycerol, threitol, erythritol, inositol, arabitol, xylitol and sorbitol.

[000149] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange d'alcools portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles. [000149] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of alcohols carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[000150] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un alcool est un mélange de sorbitol et de glycérol. [000150] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of sorbitol and glycerol.

[000151] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et au moins un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000151] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic and/or linolenic acid and at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[000152] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000152] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and an alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[000153] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000153] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.

[000154] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et le (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca- 6,9-dienoxy]octadéca-9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5). [000154] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and ( 9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).

[000155] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et le 1,3-propanediol. [000155] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and 1 ,3-propanediol.

[000156] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et le 1,4-propanediol. [000156] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and 1 ,4-propanediol.

[000157] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et le 1,5-pentanediol. [000157] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and 1 ,5-pentanediol.

[000158] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et au moins un alcool portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles. [000158] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and at least an alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[000159] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et un alcool portant 3 à 8 fonctions hydroxyles. [000159] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and an alcohol carrying 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[000160] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et au moins deux alcools portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000160] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and at least two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[000161] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et au moins deux alcools portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000162] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et deux alcools portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000161] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and at least two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions. [000162] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.

[000163] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et deux alcools portant deux fonctions hydroxyles. [000164] Dans un mode de réalisation, le polyester selon l'invention est issu d'une réaction entre un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, de l'acide linoléique et/ou de l'acide linolénique et le 1,4-butanediol et le (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)- 18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca-9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5). [000163] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions. [000164] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention comes from a reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5) .

[000165] On entend par « composé hydrocarboné biosourcé » un composé formé essentiellement, voir constitué, d'atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène, et éventuellement d'atomes d'oxygène et d'azote, caractérisé en ce que le carbone organique présent dans le composé est à 100% d'origine végétale (14C) par une analyse au radiocarbone selon l'une des normes suivantes ASTM D6866, EN 16640 ou EN 16785-1. [000165] The term “biosourced hydrocarbon compound” means a compound formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, characterized in that the organic carbon present in the compound is 100% of plant origin ( 14 C) by radiocarbon analysis according to one of the following standards ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.

[000166] Dans un mode de réalisation préférentiel, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention n'est constitué que d'atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène. [000166] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention consists only of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[000167] L'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention comporte au moins 12 atomes de carbone. [000167] The at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention contains at least 12 carbon atoms.

[000168] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention comporte au moins 16 atomes de carbone. [000168] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.

[000169] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention comporte au moins 22 atomes de carbone. [000169] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention comprises at least 22 carbon atoms.

[000170] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention comporte au moins 30 atomes de carbone. [000170] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention comprises at least 30 carbon atoms.

[000171] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention comprend un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000171] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention comprises a biosourced hydrocarbon compound.

[000172] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention comprend deux composés hydrocarbonés biosourcés. [000172] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention comprises two biosourced hydrocarbon compounds.

[000173] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés. [000174] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes linéaires saturés. [000173] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkanes. [000174] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of saturated linear alkanes.

[000175] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes ramifiés saturés. [000175] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of saturated branched alkanes.

[000176] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes linéaires insaturés. [000176] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of unsaturated linear alkanes.

[000177] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes ramifiés insaturés. [000177] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of unsaturated branched alkanes.

[000178] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est un composé non-volatile. [000178] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is a non-volatile compound.

[000179] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention a un point éclair supérieur à 110°C mesuré selon la norme ATSM D93. [000179] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention has a flash point greater than 110°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.

[000180] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est choisi dans le groupe constitué par le squalane et le squalène. [000180] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of squalane and squalene.

[000181] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est le squalane. [000181] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is squalane.

[000182] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est le squalène. [000182] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is squalene.

[000183] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est un mélange d'alcanes. [000183] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is a mixture of alkanes.

[000184] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention est un mélange d'alcanes Ci6-Cis. [000184] In one embodiment, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention is a mixture of Ci6-Cis alkanes.

[000185] Avantageusement, l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé présent dans le mélange selon l'invention présente une biodégradabilité d'au moins 60% selon la méthode OCDE 301F. [000185] Advantageously, the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound present in the mixture according to the invention has a biodegradability of at least 60% according to the OECD 301F method.

[000186] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un polyester est d'au moins 50% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000186] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one polyester is at least 50% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000187] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un polyester est compris entre 50 et 95% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000188] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un polyester est compris entre 50 et 70% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000187] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one polyester is between 50 and 95% relative to the total mass of the mixture. [000188] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one polyester is between 50 and 70% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000189] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un polyester est compris entre 60 et 80% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000189] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one polyester is between 60 and 80% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000190] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un polyester est compris entre 70 et 90% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000190] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one polyester is between 70 and 90% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000191] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un polyester est compris entre 75 et 95% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000191] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one polyester is between 75 and 95% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000192] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé est d'au moins 5% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000192] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000193] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé est compris entre 5 et 50% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000193] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound is between 5 and 50% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000194] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé est compris entre 5 et 15% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000194] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound is between 5 and 15% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000195] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé est compris entre 15 et 25% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000195] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound is between 15 and 25% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000196] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé est compris entre 25 et 35% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000196] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound is between 25 and 35% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000197] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé est compris entre 35 et 50% par rapport à la masse totale du mélange. [000197] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound is between 35 and 50% relative to the total mass of the mixture.

[000198] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend au moins 50% en masse de l'au moins un polyester et au moins 10% en masse de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000198] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 10% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon.

[000199] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend au moins 50% en masse de l'au moins un polyester et au moins 20% en masse de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000200] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend au moins 50% en masse de l'au moins un polyester et au moins 30% en masse de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000199] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 20% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon. [000200] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 30% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon.

[000201] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend au moins 60% en masse de l'au moins un polyester et au moins 10% en masse de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000201] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 60% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 10% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon.

[000202] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend au moins 70% en masse de l'au moins un polyester et au moins 10% en masse de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000202] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 70% by mass of the at least one polyester and at least 10% by mass of the at least one compound biosourced hydrocarbon.

[000203] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il contient au 50% en masse de l'au moins un polyester et 50 % en masse de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000203] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it contains 50% by mass of at least one polyester and 50% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.

[000204] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il contient au 60% en masse de l'au moins un polyester et 40 % en masse de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000204] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it contains 60% by mass of at least one polyester and 40% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.

[000205] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il contient au 70% en masse de l'au moins un polyester et 30 % en masse de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000205] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it contains 70% by mass of at least one polyester and 30% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.

[000206] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il contient au 80% en masse de l'au moins un polyester et 20 % en masse de l'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [000206] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it contains 80% by mass of at least one polyester and 20% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound.

[000207] L'invention concerne également un procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : a) on dispose d'au moins un dimère d'acide carboxylique, b) on dispose d'au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, c) on dispose d'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé, d) on mélange les composés des étapes a), b) et c), e) on abaisse la pression du mélange à une pression comprise entre 900 et 10 mbar, f) on chauffe progressivement le mélange à une température cible comprise entre 150°C et 250°C, g) on élimine en continu l'eau formée lors de la réaction de condensation, h) on obtient un mélange comprenant un polyester et le composé hydrocarboné biosourcé, caractérisé en ce que les composés des étapes a), b) et c) peuvent être mélangés dans un ordre quelconque lors de l'étape d). [000208] L'invention concerne également un procédé d'obtention du polyester selon l'invention caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : a) on dispose d'au moins un dimère d'acide carboxylique, b) on dispose d'au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, c) on mélange les composés des étapes a), b) et c), d) on abaisse la pression du mélange à une pression comprise entre 900 et 10 mbar, e) on chauffe progressivement le mélange à une température cible comprise entre 150°C et 250°C, f) on élimine en continu l'eau formée lors de la réaction de condensation, g) on obtient un polyester, caractérisé en ce que les composés des étapes a) et b) peuvent être mélangés dans un ordre quelconque lors de l'étape d). [000207] The invention also relates to a process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) there is at least one carboxylic acid dimer, b) there is at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, c) we have at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound, d) we mix the compounds of steps a), b) and c), e) we lower the pressure of the mixture at a pressure between 900 and 10 mbar, f) the mixture is gradually heated to a target temperature between 150°C and 250°C, g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, h) a mixture is obtained comprising a polyester and the biosourced hydrocarbon compound, characterized in that the compounds of steps a), b) and c) can be mixed in any order during step d). [000208] The invention also relates to a process for obtaining the polyester according to the invention, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) there is at least one carboxylic acid dimer, b) there is at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, c) the compounds of steps a), b) and c are mixed, d) the pressure of the mixture is lowered to a pressure of between 900 and 10 mbar, e) we gradually heats the mixture to a target temperature of between 150°C and 250°C, f) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, g) a polyester is obtained, characterized in that the compounds of the steps a) and b) can be mixed in any order during step d).

[000209] Dans un mode de réalisation, le procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il ne met pas en œuvre de monoalcool. [000209] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it does not use a monoalcohol.

[000210] Dans un mode de réalisation préférentiel, le procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention caractérisé en ce qu'il ne met pas en œuvre d'alcool béhénylique et/ou de phytostérol. [000210] In a preferred embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention characterized in that it does not use behenyl alcohol and/or phytosterol.

[000211] Dans un mode de réalisation, au moins un catalyseur est ajouté lors de l'étape d) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000211] In one embodiment, at least one catalyst is added during step d) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000212] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les catalyseurs de type base. [000212] In one embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is chosen from the group consisting of base type catalysts.

[000213] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est un catalyseur de type base choisi dans le groupe constitué par les sels hydroxyde ou carbonate de métaux alcalins comme l'hydroxyde de sodium, l'hydroxyde de potassium et le carbonate de potassium. [000213] In one embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is a base type catalyst chosen from the group consisting of hydroxide or carbonate salts of alkali metals such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and potassium carbonate.

[000214] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les catalyseurs de type acide. [000214] In one embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is chosen from the group consisting of acid type catalysts.

[000215] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est un catalyseur de type acide choisi dans le groupe constitué par les acides sulfoniques comme l'acide paratoluènesulfonique, l'acide méthanesulfonique et les acides phosphoriques ou oxy-phosphoriques comme l'acide phosphorique et l'acide phosphoreux. [000215] In one embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is an acid type catalyst chosen from the group consisting of sulfonic acids such as paratoluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid and phosphoric or oxy-phosphoric acids such as phosphoric acid and phosphorous acid.

[000216] Dans un mode de réalisation préférentiel, l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est l'acide méthanesulfonique. [000216] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is methanesulfonic acid.

[000217] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est choisi dans le groupe constitué par l'oxalate d'étain et le tétrabutanolate de titane. [000218] Dans un mode de réalisation préférentiel, l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est l'oxalate d'étain. [000217] In one embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is chosen from the group consisting of tin oxalate and titanium tetrabutanolate. [000218] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is tin oxalate.

[000219] Dans un mode de réalisation, la masse de l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est comprise entre 0,01 et 1% par rapport à la somme des masses de l'au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et l'au moins un alcool. [000219] In one embodiment, the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01 and 1% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one acid dimer dicarboxylic acid and at least one alcohol.

[000220] Dans un mode de réalisation, la masse de l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est comprise entre 0,01 et 0,5% par rapport à la somme des masses de l'au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et l'au moins un alcool. [000220] In one embodiment, the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01 and 0.5% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.

[000221] Dans un mode de réalisation, la masse de l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est comprise entre 0,01 et 0,2% par rapport à la somme des masses de l'au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et l'au moins un alcool. [000221] In one embodiment, the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01 and 0.2% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.

[000222] Dans un mode de réalisation, la masse de l'au moins un catalyseur ajouté lors de l'étape d) est comprise entre 0,01 et 0,1% par rapport à la somme des masses de l'au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et l'au moins un alcool. [000222] In one embodiment, the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01 and 0.1% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.

[000223] Dans un mode de réalisation, la pression est abaissée à une pression comprise entre 10 mbar et 900 mbar lors de l'étape e) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000223] In one embodiment, the pressure is lowered to a pressure of between 10 mbar and 900 mbar during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000224] Dans un mode de réalisation, la pression est abaissée à une pression comprise entre 10 mbar et 600 mbar lors de l'étape e) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000224] In one embodiment, the pressure is lowered to a pressure of between 10 mbar and 600 mbar during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000225] Dans un mode de réalisation, la pression est abaissée à une pression comprise entre 10 mbar et 300 mbar lors de l'étape e) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000225] In one embodiment, the pressure is lowered to a pressure of between 10 mbar and 300 mbar during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000226] Dans un mode de réalisation, la pression est abaissée à une pression de 10 mbar lors de l'étape e) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000226] In one embodiment, the pressure is lowered to a pressure of 10 mbar during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000227] Dans un mode de réalisation, la pression est abaissée à une pression de 200 mbar lors de l'étape e) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000227] In one embodiment, the pressure is lowered to a pressure of 200 mbar during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000228] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température cible lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention en suivant une rampe de température. [000228] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a target temperature during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention by following a temperature ramp.

[000229] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température cible lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention en effectuant des paliers de températures. [000229] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a target temperature during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention by performing temperature stages.

[000230] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température comprise entre 150 et 170°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange. [000231] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température comprise entre 170 et 190°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000230] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature between 150 and 170° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture. [000231] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature between 170 and 190°C during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000232] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température comprise entre 190 et 210°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000232] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature between 190 and 210°C during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000233] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température comprise entre 210 et 230°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000233] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature between 210 and 230°C during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000234] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température comprise entre 230 et 250°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000234] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature between 230 and 250°C during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000235] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température de 160°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000235] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 160° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000236] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température de 170°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000236] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 170° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000237] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température de 180°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000237] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 180° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000238] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température de 190°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000238] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 190° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000239] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température de 200°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000239] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 200° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000240] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température de 210°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000240] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 210° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000241] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température de 220°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000241] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 220° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000242] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange est progressivement chauffé à une température de 230°C lors de l'étape f) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000243] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'excès de l'au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles est aussi éliminé lors de l'étape g) du procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention. [000242] In one embodiment, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 230° C. during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention. [000243] In one embodiment, the excess of at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions is also eliminated during step g) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.

[000244] Dans un mode de réalisation, le procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce l'alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles est un diol. [000244] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions is a diol.

[000245] Dans un mode de réalisation, le procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : a) on dispose d'un dimère acide dicarboxylique, b) on dispose d'un diol, c) on dispose d'un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé, d) on mélange les composés des étapes a), b) et c), e) on abaisse la pression du mélange à une pression comprise entre 900 et 10 mbar f) on chauffe progressivement le mélange à une température cible comprise entre 150 et 250°C, g) on élimine en continu l'eau formée lors de la réaction de condensation, h) on obtient un mélange comprenant un polyester et le composé hydrocarboné biosourcé, caractérisé en ce que les composés des étapes a), b) et c) peuvent être mélangés dans un ordre quelconque lors de l'étape d). [000245] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) a dicarboxylic acid dimer is available, b) a dicarboxylic acid dimer is available, diol, c) we have a biosourced hydrocarbon compound, d) we mix the compounds of steps a), b) and c), e) we lower the pressure of the mixture to a pressure between 900 and 10 mbar f) we gradually heats the mixture to a target temperature of between 150 and 250°C, g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, h) a mixture is obtained comprising a polyester and the biosourced hydrocarbon compound, characterized in that the compounds of steps a), b) and c) can be mixed in any order during step d).

[000246] Dans un mode de réalisation, le procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : a) on dispose d'un dimère acide dicarboxylique, b) on dispose d'un diol, c) on dispose d'un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé, d) on mélange les composés des étapes a), b) et c), e) on abaisse la pression du mélange à une pression comprise entre 900 et 10 mbar, f) on chauffe progressivement le mélange à une température cible comprise entre 150 et 250°C, g) on élimine en continu l'eau formée lors de la réaction de condensation, h) on obtient un mélange comprenant un polyester et le composé hydrocarboné biosourcé, caractérisé en ce qu'un catalyseur est ajouté lors de l'étape d). [000246] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) a dicarboxylic acid dimer is available, b) a dicarboxylic acid dimer is available, diol, c) we have a biosourced hydrocarbon compound, d) we mix the compounds of steps a), b) and c), e) we lower the pressure of the mixture to a pressure between 900 and 10 mbar, f) the mixture is gradually heated to a target temperature of between 150 and 250°C, g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, h) a mixture is obtained comprising a polyester and the biosourced hydrocarbon compound, characterized in that a catalyst is added during step d).

[000247] Dans un mode de réalisation, le procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : a) on dispose d'un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, l'acide linoléique et/ou l'acide linolénique, b) on dispose du (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca- 9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), c) on dispose de squalane, d) on mélange les composés des étapes a), b) et c), e) on abaisse la pression du mélange à une pression de 10 mbar, f) on chauffe progressivement le mélange à une température de 220°C, g) on élimine en continu l'eau formée lors de la réaction de condensation, h) on obtient un mélange comprenant un polyester et le squalane. [000247] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) we have a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid, b) we have (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)- 18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), c) squalane is available, d) the compounds of steps a), b) are mixed and c), e) the pressure of the mixture is lowered to a pressure of 10 mbar, f) the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 220°C, g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously removed , h) a mixture is obtained comprising a polyester and squalane.

[000248] Dans un mode de réalisation, le procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : a) on dispose d'un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, l'acide linoléique et/ou l'acide linolénique b) on dispose du (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca- 9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), c) on dispose de squalène, d) on mélange les composés des étapes a), b) et c), e) on abaisse la pression du mélange à une pression de 10 mbar, f) on chauffe progressivement le mélange à une température de 160°C, g) on élimine en continu l'eau formée lors de la réaction de condensation, de l'acide méthanesulfonique étant ajouté lors de l'étape d) et h) on obtient un mélange comprenant un polyester et le squalène. [000248] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid is available, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid b) we have (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l -ol (CAS 147853-32-5), c) squalene is available, d) the compounds of steps a), b) and c) are mixed, e) the pressure of the mixture is lowered to a pressure of 10 mbar, f) the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 160°C, g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously removed, methanesulfonic acid being added during step d) and h) obtains a mixture comprising a polyester and squalene.

[000249] Dans un mode de réalisation, le procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : a) on dispose d'un dimère acide dicarboxylique saturé issu de l'acide oléique, l'acide linoléique et/ou l'acide linolénique, b) on dispose du (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca- 9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), c) on dispose d'un mélange d'alcanes en Ci6-Cis, d) on mélange les composés des étapes a), b) et c), e) on abaisse la pression du mélange à une pression de 200 mbar, f) on chauffe progressivement le mélange à une température de 170°C, g) on élimine en continu l'eau formée lors de la réaction de condensation, de l'oxalate d'étain étant ajouté lors de l'étape d) et h) on obtient un mélange comprenant un polyester et les alcanes en C16-C18. [000250] L'invention concerne également une composition cosmétique comprenant un mélange selon l'invention et au moins un composé choisi parmi les huiles non volatiles, les huiles volatiles, les huiles brillantes, les corps gras pâteux, les gélifiants, les polymères filmogènes, les cires, les anti-oxydants, les pigments, les colorants, les tensioactifs, une phase aqueuse, et leurs mélanges. [000249] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid is available, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid, b) we have (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca- 9,12-dien- l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), c) we have a mixture of Ci6-Cis alkanes, d) we mix the compounds of steps a), b) and c), e) we lower the pressure of the mixture at a pressure of 200 mbar, f) the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 170° C., g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, tin oxalate being added during step d) and h) we obtain a mixture comprising a polyester and C16-C18 alkanes. [000250] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture according to the invention and at least one compound chosen from non-volatile oils, volatile oils, glossy oils, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, waxes, anti-oxidants, pigments, dyes, surfactants, an aqueous phase, and mixtures thereof.

[000251] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile non volatile. [000251] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one non-volatile oil.

[000252] Par « huile non volatile », on entend au sens de la présente invention, une huile ayant un point éclair supérieur à 110°C mesuré selon la norme ATSM D93. [000252] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-volatile oil” means an oil having a flash point greater than 110°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.

[000253] Ces huiles peuvent être d'origine végétale, minérale ou synthétique. [000253] These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[000254] Ces huiles non volatiles peuvent être des huiles hydrocarbonées, siliconées, fluorées ou fluorosiliconées. [000254] These non-volatile oils can be hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or fluorosilicone oils.

[000255] Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par huile hydrocarbonée une huile essentiellement constituée d'atomes de carbone, d'hydrogène et éventuellement d'atomes d'oxygène et ou d'azote. [000255] For the purposes of the present invention, the term hydrocarbon oil means an oil essentially consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen and possibly oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms.

[000256] Parmi ces huiles hydrocarbonées, on peut citer les alcanes linéaires ou ramifiés d'origine minérale ou synthétique comme les alcanes linéaires ou ramifiés de 12 à 40 atomes de carbone, les (poly)esters et (poly)éthers, et en particulier les (poly)esters d'acides en C2-C24 (de préférence en C6-C20), les triglycérides d'acides gras en C6-C20, les huiles végétales, les di-alkyles carbonates, les acides gras ramifiées et/ou insaturés, les alcools gras ramifiés et/ou insaturés. [000256] Among these hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of linear or branched alkanes of mineral or synthetic origin such as linear or branched alkanes of 12 to 40 carbon atoms, (poly) esters and (poly) ethers, and in particular (poly) esters of C2-C24 acids (preferably C6-C20), triglycerides of C6-C20 fatty acids, vegetable oils, di-alkyl carbonates, branched and/or unsaturated fatty acids , branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohols.

[000257] Concernant les huiles non volatiles siliconées elles sont notamment choisies dans le groupe comprenant les huiles silicones phénylées, les polydiméthylsiloxanes non volatiles, ou dérivés de polydiméthylsiloxanes non volatiles et leurs mélanges. [000257] Concerning the non-volatile silicone oils, they are in particular chosen from the group comprising phenyl silicone oils, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, or derivatives of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes and their mixtures.

[000258] Dans un mode de réalisation particulièrement préféré, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'huile non volatile est choisie dans le groupe constitué des alcanes linéaires ou ramifiés non volatils. [000258] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of non-volatile linear or branched alkanes.

[000259] Préférentiellement, l'huile non volatile est choisie dans le groupe constitué des alcanes linéaires ou ramifiés de 12 à 40 atomes de carbone. [000259] Preferably, the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of linear or branched alkanes of 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

[000260] Préférentiellement, les huiles non volatiles sont d'origine végétale. [000260] Preferably, the non-volatile oils are of vegetable origin.

[000261] Dans un mode de réalisation préférée, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'huile non volatile est une huile hydrocarbonée végétale. [000261] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is a vegetable hydrocarbon oil.

[000262] Les huiles hydrocarbonées végétales sont notamment choisies dans le groupe comprenant les huiles de germe de blés, de tournesol, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de coco, d'abricot, de ricin, de maïs, d'avocat, de soja, de karité, d'olive, d'huile d amande douce, de coton, de palme, de macadamia, de colza, de jojoba, de noisette, de pavot, de luzerne, de potimarron, de cassis, de courge, d'onagre, d'orge, et leurs mélanges. [000262] Vegetable hydrocarbon oils are chosen in particular from the group comprising wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, coconut, apricot, castor, corn, avocado, soy, shea, olive, oil sweet almond, cotton, palm, macadamia, rapeseed, jojoba, hazelnut, poppy, alfalfa, pumpkin, blackcurrant, squash, evening primrose, barley, and their mixtures.

[000263] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile non volatile est d'au moins 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000263] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the non-volatile oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000264] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile non volatile est d'au moins 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000264] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000265] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile non volatile est compris entre 5% et 25% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000265] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the non-volatile oil is between 5% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000266] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile non volatile est compris entre 5% et 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000266] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the non-volatile oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000267] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile non volatile est compris entre 10% et 25% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000267] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is between 10% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000268] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile volatile. [000268] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil.

[000269] Par « huile volatile », on entend au sens de la présente invention, une huile ayant un point éclair inférieur à 110°C mesuré selon la norme ATSM D93. [000269] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oil having a flash point lower than 110°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.

[000270] Ces huiles peuvent être d'origine végétale, minérale ou synthétique. [000270] These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[000271] Dans un mode de réalisation préférentiel, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile volatile d'origine végétale. [000271] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil of plant origin.

[000272] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins une huile volatile a un point éclair inférieur à 95°C mesuré selon la norme ATSM D93. [000272] In one embodiment, the at least one volatile oil has a flash point below 95°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.

[000273] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins une huile volatile a un point éclair inférieur à 55°C mesuré selon la norme ATSM D93. [000273] In one embodiment, the at least one volatile oil has a flash point below 55°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.

[000274] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins une huile volatile a un point éclair compris entre 40 et 55°C mesuré selon la norme ATSM D93. [000274] In one embodiment, the at least one volatile oil has a flash point of between 40 and 55°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.

[000275] Dans un mode de réalisation, l'au moins une huile volatile a un point éclair compris entre 30 et 40°C mesuré selon la norme ATSM D93. [000275] In one embodiment, the at least one volatile oil has a flash point of between 30 and 40°C measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.

[000276] Ces huiles volatiles peuvent être des huiles hydrocarbonées, siliconées, fluorées ou fluorosiliconées. [000277] Parmi ces huiles hydrocarbonées, on peut citer les alcanes linéaires ou ramifiés en Cs-Ci6 notamment les isoalcanes en Cs-Ci6 comme l'isodécane, l'isododécane et l'isohexadécane. [000276] These volatile oils can be hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or fluorosilicone oils. [000277] Among these hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of linear or branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, in particular Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes such as isodecane, isododecane and isohexadecane.

[000278] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile volatile choisie dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes ramifiés en C8-C12. [000278] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of C8-C12 branched alkanes.

[000279] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile volatile choisie dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes ramifiés en Cio. [000279] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of Cio-branched alkanes.

[000280] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile volatile choisie dans le groupe constitué par les triméthylheptanes. [000280] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of trimethylheptanes.

[000281] Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « triméthylheptanes » l'ensemble des alcanes en C? ramifiés par trois groupements méthyles. [000281] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “trimethylheptanes” means all C? branched by three methyl groups.

[000282] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile volatile choisie dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes ramifiés en Cio et les alcanes linéaires en C> 10. [000282] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of Cio-branched alkanes and alkanes linear in C> 10.

[000283] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile volatile choisie dans le groupe constitué par les triméthylheptanes et les alcanes linéaires en C> 10. [000283] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of trimethylheptanes and linear C alkanes. > 10.

[000284] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile volatile constitué d'un mélange d'au moins un triméthylheptane et au moins un alcane linéaire en C> 10. [000284] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil consisting of a mixture of at least one trimethylheptane and at least a linear alkane at C>10.

[000285] Parmi ces huiles hydrocarbonées, on peut aussi citer les esters ramifiés en C8-C16 comme le néopentanoate d'isohexyle. [000285] Among these hydrocarbon oils, we can also cite C8-C16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate.

[000286] Parmi ces huiles siliconées, on peut citer les huiles siliconées linéaires ou cycliques telles que les polydiméthylsiloxanes linéaires ou cycliques ayant de 3 à 7 atomes de silicium. [000286] Among these silicone oils, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[000287] Parmi ces huiles fluorées, on peut citer les huiles fluorées telles que les perfluoropolyéthers, les perfluoroalcanes comme la perfluorodécaline, les perfluorodamantanes et les huiles d'esters fluorés. [000287] Among these fluorinated oils, mention may be made of fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes and fluoroester oils.

[000288] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est d'au moins 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000289] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est d'au moins 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000288] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [000289] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000290] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est d'au moins 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000290] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the volatile oil is at least 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000291] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est d'au moins 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000291] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is at least 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000292] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est d'au moins 25% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000292] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is at least 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000293] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est d'au moins 50% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000293] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is at least 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000294] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est compris entre 25% et 80% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000294] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is between 25% and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000295] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est compris entre 40% et 80% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000295] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is between 40% and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000296] [000296]

[000297] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est compris entre 25% et 60% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000297] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the volatile oil is between 25% and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000298] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est compris entre 30% et 50% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000298] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is between 30% and 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000299] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est compris entre 40% et 60% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000299] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the volatile oil is between 40% and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000300] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile volatile est compris entre 60% et 80% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000300] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the volatile oil is between 60% and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000301] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une huile brillante. ZI [000301] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one glossy oil. ZI

[000302] Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « huile brillante » une huile possédant des propriétés de brillance intrinsèques. Les « huiles brillantes » sont fréquemment utilisées en cosmétique pour garantir un « effet brillant » lors de l'application des compositions cosmétiques sur des matières kératiniques par exemple. [000303] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée l'huile brillante est une huile non volatile. [000302] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “shiny oil” means an oil having intrinsic shine properties. “Shiny oils” are frequently used in cosmetics to guarantee a “shiny effect” when applying cosmetic compositions to keratin materials for example. [000303] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized by the shiny oil being a non-volatile oil.

[000304] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'huile brillante est choisie dans le groupe comprenant :[000304] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the glossy oil is chosen from the group comprising:

- les polymères tels que : les polybutylènes notamment le POLYBUTENE® commercialisé ou fabriqué par la société ATAMAN, les polyisobutylènes hydrogénés, les polydécènes et les polydécènes hydrogénés, les polyfarnésènes, les copolymères de la vinylpyrrolidone notamment le copolymère vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene, ANTARON V 220 ® commercialisé ou fabriqué par la société ISP. - polymers such as: polybutylenes in particular POLYBUTENE® marketed or manufactured by the company ATAMAN, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, polyfarnesenes, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers in particular the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer, ANTARON V 220 ® marketed or manufactured by the company ISP.

- les esters tels que les esters d'acides gras linéaires ayant un nombre total de carbone supérieur à 30, les esters aromatiques, les esters d'alcool gras ou d'acides gras ramifiés ayant de 20 à 30 atomes de carbone. - esters such as esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number greater than 30, aromatic esters, esters of fatty alcohol or branched fatty acids having 20 to 30 carbon atoms.

- les copolymères d'esters tels que : les dimères dilinoleyl/dimères dilinoleate (LUSPLAN DD— DA5® et LUSPLAN DD-DA7®), des dilinoleic acid/ butanediol copolymer (VISCOPLAST 14436H®), des dilinoleic acid/ propanediol copolymer et leurs mélanges. [000305] De préférence, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'huile brillante est d'origine végétale. - ester copolymers such as: dilinoleyl dimers/dilinoleate dimers (LUSPLAN DD—DA5® and LUSPLAN DD-DA7®), dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer (VISCOPLAST 14436H®), dilinoleic acid/propanediol copolymer and their mixtures . [000305] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the shiny oil is of plant origin.

[000306] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile brillante est d'au moins 2% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000306] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is at least 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000307] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile brillante est d'au moins 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000307] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000308] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile brillante est compris entre 2% et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000308] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 2% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000309] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile brillante est compris entre 5% et 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000309] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000310] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile brillante est compris entre 10% et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000311] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile brillante est compris entre 2% et 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000310] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 10% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [000311] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 2% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000312] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'huile brillante est compris entre 5% et 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000312] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the glossy oil is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000313] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins un corps gras pâteux. [000313] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one pasty fatty substance.

[000314] Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « corps gras pâteux » un composé gras lipophile à changement d'état solide/liquide réversible, présentant à température ambiante (25°C) une fraction liquide et une fraction solide. [000314] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty fatty substance” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change, presenting at room temperature (25°C) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[000315] En d'autres termes, la température de fusion du corps gras pâteux est inférieure ou égale à 25°C. [000315] In other words, the melting temperature of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 25°C.

[000316] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le corps gras pâteux est choisi dans le groupe comprenant les corps gras pâteux synthétiques, les corps gras pâteux animaux, les corps gras pâteux végétaux et leurs mélanges. [000316] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is chosen from the group comprising synthetic pasty fatty substances, animal pasty fatty substances, vegetable pasty fatty substances and their mixtures.

[000317] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le corps gras pâteux est un corps gras pâteux synthétique choisi dans le groupe comprenant : les éthers de polyol, la vaseline, les polymères vinyliques, les esters de pentaérythritol, les polyesters et leurs mélanges. [000317] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is a synthetic pasty fatty substance chosen from the group comprising: polyol ethers, petroleum jelly, vinyl polymers, pentaerythritol esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[000318] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le corps gras pâteux animal est la lanoline. [000318] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty animal fatty substance is lanolin.

[000319] De préférence, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le corps gras pâteux est un corps gras pâteux végétal. [000319] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is a vegetable pasty fatty substance.

[000320] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le corps gras pâteux végétal est choisi dans le groupe comprenant : les beurres végétaux (beurre d'avocat, beurre de karité), les triglycérides d'acides gras et leurs dérivés, et leurs mélanges. [000320] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the vegetable pasty fatty substance is chosen from the group comprising: vegetable butters (avocado butter, shea butter), triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, and their mixtures.

[000321] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du corps gras pâteux est compris entre 0% et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000321] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000322] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du corps gras pâteux est compris entre 0% et 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000323] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du corps gras pâteux est compris entre 0% et 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000322] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [000323] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000324] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du corps gras pâteux est compris entre 0% et 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000324] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by weight of the pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000325] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins un gélifiant. [000325] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one gelling agent.

[000326] Par gélifiant, on entend au sens de la présente invention, des composés qui constituent d'excellents agents de texture permettant d'équilibrer les formulations sur le point de l'onctuosité et du collant. [000326] For the purposes of the present invention, gelling agent means compounds which constitute excellent texturing agents making it possible to balance formulations in terms of smoothness and stickiness.

[000327] Par ailleurs, certaines huiles brillantes comme les VISCOPLAST 14436H®, et les composés commercialisés sous la dénomination LUSPLAN DD-DA5® et LUSPLAN DD-DA7® peuvent également être utilisés comme gélifiants. [000327] Furthermore, certain glossy oils such as VISCOPLAST 14436H®, and the compounds marketed under the name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and LUSPLAN DD-DA7® can also be used as gelling agents.

[000328] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est choisi dans le groupe comprenant : les gélifiants organiques, les gélifiants minéraux, les gélifiants polymériques, et leurs mélanges. [000328] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising: organic gelling agents, mineral gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[000329] De préférence, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est d'origine végétale. [000329] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is of plant origin.

[000330] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est un gélifiant organique choisi dans le groupe comprenant : l'éthylcellulose et ses dérivés, les résines dérivées de la colophane, les esters de dextrine, les esters d'acides gras, et leurs mélanges. [000330] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is an organic gelling agent chosen from the group comprising: ethylcellulose and its derivatives, resins derived from rosin, esters of dextrin, fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.

[000331] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est un gélifiant minéral choisi dans le groupe comprenant : l'hectorite et ses dérivés, la silice pyrogénée et ses dérivés, et leurs mélanges. [000331] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a mineral gelling agent chosen from the group comprising: hectorite and its derivatives, fumed silica and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof. .

[000332] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est un gélifiant polymérique choisi dans le groupe comprenant : les organopolysiloxanes et leurs dérivés, les copolymères de diméthicones et leurs dérivés, les copolymères polystyrène/polyisoprène, les copolymères polystyrène/polybutadiène, les copolymères polystyrène/copoly(éthylène-propylène), les copolymères polystyrène/copoly(éthylène-butylène), les mélanges de copolymères dans l'isododécane tel que le copolymère d'éthylène/propylène ou le copolymère butylène/éthylène/styrène, les polyesters et leurs dérivés, les résines de polyamides, et leurs mélanges. [000333] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est le palmitate de dextrine ou l'un de ses dérivés. [000334] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est une hectorite modifiée de type BENTONE GEL ISD V® ou l'un de ses équivalents. [000332] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a polymeric gelling agent chosen from the group comprising: organopolysiloxanes and their derivatives, dimethicone copolymers and their derivatives, polystyrene copolymers /polyisoprene, polystyrene/polybutadiene copolymers, polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) copolymers, polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) copolymers, mixtures of copolymers in isododecane such as ethylene/propylene copolymer or butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer, polyesters and their derivatives, polyamide resins, and their mixtures. [000333] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is dextrin palmitate or one of its derivatives. [000334] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the BENTONE GEL ISD V® type or one of its equivalents.

[000335] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est une hectorite modifiée de type VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK SB® ou l'un de ses équivalents. [000335] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK SB® type or one of its equivalents.

[000336] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est une hectorite modifiée de type disteardimonium hectorite associée au triéthyle citrate. [000336] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the disteardimonium hectorite type associated with triethyl citrate.

[000337] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est un mélange de copolymère dans l'isododécane tel que le copolymère d'éthylène/propylène. [000337] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a mixture of copolymer in isododecane such as the ethylene/propylene copolymer.

[000338] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant est l'association d'un polymère de diméthicone et d'un mélange d'alcanes commercialisé sous le nom VEGELIGHT SILK SI 118 ® par BIOSYNTHIS, ou l'un de ses équivalents. [000338] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is the combination of a dimethicone polymer and a mixture of alkanes marketed under the name VEGELIGHT SILK SI 118 ® by BIOSYNTHIS, or one of its equivalents.

[000339] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du gélifiant est d'au moins 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000339] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000340] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du gélifiant est d'au moins 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000340] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is at least 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000341] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du gélifiant est compris entre 5% et 30% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000341] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000342] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du gélifiant est compris entre 5% et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000342] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000343] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du gélifiant est compris entre 15% et 30% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000343] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 15% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000344] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du gélifiant est compris entre 5% et 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000345] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du gélifiant est compris entre 15% et 25% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000344] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [000345] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 15% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000346] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du gélifiant est compris entre 20% et 30% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000346] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 20% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000347] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins un polymère filmogène. [000347] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one film-forming polymer.

[000348] Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par polymère filmogène un polymère apte à former un film macroscopiquement continu notamment sur les lèvres dans le cadre de notre invention. [000348] For the purposes of the present invention, the term film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming a macroscopically continuous film, particularly on the lips in the context of our invention.

[000349] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le polymère filmogène est choisi dans le groupe comprenant : les polymères acryliques, les polyuréthanes, les polyesters, les polyamides, les polymères siliconés. [000349] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from the group comprising: acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, silicone polymers.

[000350] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le polymère filmogène est le triméthylsilloxysillicate commercialisé sous le nom TMS 803. [000350] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is trimethylsilloxysillicate marketed under the name TMS 803.

[000351] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du polymère filmogène est d'au moins 1% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000351] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is at least 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000352] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du polymère filmogène est d'au moins 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000352] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000353] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du polymère filmogène est compris entre 1% et 25% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000353] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 1% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000354] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du polymère filmogène est compris entre 10% et 25% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000354] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 10% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000355] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du polymère filmogène est compris entre 1% et 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000355] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 1% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000356] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique du polymère filmogène est compris entre 10% et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000357] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une cire. [000356] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 10% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [000357] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one wax.

[000358] Les cires jouent un rôle important dans la conception des produits cosmétiques, les rouges à lèvres notamment, car elles influent sur certains critères essentiels comme la texture, l'aspect et/ou la solidité du produit. [000358] Waxes play an important role in the design of cosmetic products, lipsticks in particular, because they influence certain essential criteria such as the texture, appearance and/or solidity of the product.

[000359] Dans le cadre de la présente invention, on entend par « cire » un composé lipophile ayant un changement d'état solide/liquide réversible. Autrement dit le composé est solide à température ambiante (à 25°C) et a un point de fusion supérieur ou égal à 30°C. [000359] In the context of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound having a reversible solid/liquid state change. In other words, the compound is solid at room temperature (at 25°C) and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.

[000360] De préférence, au sens de la présente invention, les cires utilisées ont un point de fusion supérieur ou égal à 50°C. [000360] Preferably, within the meaning of the present invention, the waxes used have a melting point greater than or equal to 50°C.

[000361] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'au moins une cire est choisie dans le groupe constitué par les cires de synthèse, les cires minérales, les cires végétales et les cires animales. [000361] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one wax is chosen from the group consisting of synthetic waxes, mineral waxes, vegetable waxes and animal waxes. .

[000362] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la cire est une cire minérale ou une cire de synthèse choisie dans le groupe comprenant : les cires microcristallines, les paraffines, l'ozokérite, les cires de polyéthylène, les cires de silicones, les cires fluorées. [000362] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the wax is a mineral wax or a synthetic wax chosen from the group comprising: microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes, fluorinated waxes.

[000363] Par « cire végétale », on entend une composition comprenant au moins une huile partiellement ou complètement hydrogénée. Ces cires végétales peuvent comprendre des esters d'acides gras et d'alcool gras, et peuvent comprendre en outre des acides gras, des alcools gras libres, des alcanes linéaires de longues chaînes et/ou des insaponifiables. [000363] By “vegetable wax” is meant a composition comprising at least one partially or completely hydrogenated oil. These plant waxes may include esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, and may further include fatty acids, free fatty alcohols, long chain linear alkanes and/or unsaponifiables.

[000364] Préférentiellement, au sens de la présente invention, les cires utilisées sont des cires végétales. [000364] Preferably, within the meaning of the present invention, the waxes used are vegetable waxes.

[000365] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la cire est une cire végétale ou animale choisie dans le groupe comprenant : la cire de lanoline, la cire de son de riz, la cire de Carnauba, la cire de Candellila, la cire de Berry, la cire d'abeille, la cire de tournesol, la cire de mimosa, la cire de jojoba, la cire de ricin, la cire d'olive. [000365] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the wax is a vegetable or animal wax chosen from the group comprising: lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba, Candellila wax, Berry wax, beeswax, sunflower wax, mimosa wax, jojoba wax, castor wax, olive wax.

[000366] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la cire est d'au moins 2% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000366] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is at least 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000367] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la cire est d'au moins 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000368] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la cire est compris entre 2% et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000367] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [000368] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 2% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000369] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la cire est compris entre 5% et 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000369] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000370] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la cire est compris entre 2% et 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000370] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 2% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000371] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la cire est compris entre 5% et 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000371] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000372] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins un anti-oxydant. [000372] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one antioxidant.

[000373] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'anti-oxydant est choisi dans le groupe comprenant : les antioxydants phénoliques de type BHA, BHT, DBPC, gallates, les anti-oxydants dits naturels comme le dl-alpha-tocophérol ou ses dérivés, des extraits végétaux, les lipopeptides dibasiques comme la lysine ou l'arginine, et leurs mélanges. [000373] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the antioxidant is chosen from the group comprising: phenolic antioxidants of the BHA, BHT, DBPC, gallates type, anti-oxidants so-called natural ones such as dl-alpha-tocopherol or its derivatives, plant extracts, dibasic lipopeptides such as lysine or arginine, and their mixtures.

[000374] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'anti-oxydant est d'au moins 0,01% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000374] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000375] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'anti-oxydant est d'au moins 0,1% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000375] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is at least 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000376] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'anti-oxydant est compris entre 0,01% et 2% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000376] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .

[000377] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'anti-oxydant est compris entre 0,01% et 1% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000377] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .

[000378] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'anti-oxydant est compris entre 0,1% et 1% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000378] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.1% and 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .

[000379] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'anti-oxydant est compris entre 0,01% et 0,1% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000380] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une partie pigmentaire. [000379] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [000380] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one pigmentary part.

[000381] Cette partie pigmentaire permet d'obtenir une coloration de la composition cosmétique. Les pigments utilisés sont d'origine synthétique, minérale ou végétale. Leur dosage est également subtil. [000381] This pigment part makes it possible to obtain coloring of the cosmetic composition. The pigments used are of synthetic, mineral or vegetable origin. Their dosage is also subtle.

[000382] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la partie pigmentaire est choisie dans le groupe comprenant : les colorants hydrosolubles, les colorants liposolubles, les pigments, les nacres, les paillettes et leurs mélanges. [000382] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part is chosen from the group comprising: water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearls, flakes and their mixtures .

[000383] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la partie pigmentaire est choisie dans le groupe comprenant : les pigments organiques comme les pigments fixés ou les pigments précipités, les pigments minéraux comme le dioxyde de titane ou les oxydes de fer, les thiosulfates d'aluminosilicate de sodium, les oxydes de chrome, l'oxychlorure de bismuth, la phtalocyanine de cuivre, la phtalocyanine sans métal, la phtalocyanine de cuivre chloré. [000384] Ainsi, le taux d'oxide de titane détermine la couvrance et l'opacité du film. [000385] L'utilisation de laques ou de pigments précipités déterminent la couleur et la chrominance. [000383] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part is chosen from the group comprising: organic pigments such as fixed pigments or precipitated pigments, mineral pigments such as carbon dioxide titanium or iron oxides, sodium aluminosilicate thiosulfates, chromium oxides, bismuth oxychloride, copper phthalocyanine, metal-free phthalocyanine, chlorinated copper phthalocyanine. [000384] Thus, the level of titanium oxide determines the coverage and opacity of the film. [000385] The use of lacquers or precipitated pigments determines the color and chrominance.

[000386] A titre illustratif, d'autres types de pigments peuvent être utilisés comme le mica titane, les borosilicates et leurs dérivés, le mica, la silice. [000386] As an illustration, other types of pigments can be used such as titanium mica, borosilicates and their derivatives, mica, silica.

[000387] Des pigments minéraux sont utilisés pour nuancer les teintes tandis que des composés tels que l'oxychlorure de bismuth peut être utilisé pour conférer des effets particuliers (effets métalliques, chatoyants, etc.). [000387] Mineral pigments are used to nuance the shades while compounds such as bismuth oxychloride can be used to confer particular effects (metallic, shimmering effects, etc.).

[000388] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la partie pigmentaire comprend un colorant synthétique choisi dans le groupe comprenant : CI100006, CI12010, CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490 , CI14270, CI14700, CI14720, CI14815, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI15980, CI15985, CI1035, CI16255, CI16290, CI17200, CI18050, CI45100, CI45220, CI45380, CI45430. [000388] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a synthetic dye chosen from the group comprising: CI100006, CI12010, CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14270, CI14700, CI14720, CI14815, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI15980, CI15985, CI1035, CI16255, CI16290, CI17200, CI18050, CI451 00, CI45220, CI45380, CI45430.

[000389] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la partie pigmentaire comprend un colorant synthétique choisi dans le groupe comprenant : CI77499, CI77267, CI77268, CI77499 CI77266, CI50420, CI27755, CI28440, CI20470 et leurs mélanges. [000389] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a synthetic dye chosen from the group comprising: CI77499, CI77267, CI77268, CI77499 CI77266, CI50420, CI27755, CI28440, CI20470 and their mixtures.

[000390] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la partie pigmentaire comprend un colorant d'origine végétale choisi parmi les extraits de fruits et/ou de plantes contenant des colorants. [000391] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est d'au moins 0,01% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000390] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a dye of plant origin chosen from fruit and/or plant extracts containing dyes. [000391] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000392] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est d'au moins 1% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000392] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is at least 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000393] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est d'au moins 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000393] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000394] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est compris entre 0,01% et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000394] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigmentary part is between 0.01% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000395] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est compris entre 1% et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000395] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 1% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000396] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est compris entre 5% et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000396] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 5% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000397] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est compris entre 1% et 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000397] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 1% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000398] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est compris entre 5% et 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000398] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000399] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est compris entre 0,01% et 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000399] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 0.01% and 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000400] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est compris entre 5% et 10% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000400] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000401] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la partie pigmentaire est compris entre 10% et 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000401] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment part is between 10% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000402] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins un tensioactif. [000402] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one surfactant.

[000403] Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par tensioactif un composé qui modifie la tension superficielle entre deux surfaces, phases. De manière générale, ces composés sont des molécules amphiphiles et permettent de solubiliser deux phases non miscibles d'une composition. [000403] For the purposes of the present invention, surfactant means a compound which modifies the surface tension between two surfaces, phases. Generally speaking, these Compounds are amphiphilic molecules and make it possible to solubilize two immiscible phases of a composition.

[000404] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'au moins tensioactif est choisi dans le groupe comprenant les tensioactifs non-ioniques, anioniques et amphotères. [000404] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least surfactant is chosen from the group comprising non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants.

[000405] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'au moins tensioactif est un tensioactif non-ionique. [000405] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant.

[000406] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'au moins tensioactif est choisi dans le groupe des tensioactifs non-ioniques constitué par : les alkyléther de polyoxyalkylène, les alkyléther de glycérine, les esters d’acide gras de glycérine, les esters d’acide gras de polyglycérine, les esters d’acide gras de sorbitane, leurs dérivés, et leurs mélanges. [000406] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least surfactant is chosen from the group of non-ionic surfactants consisting of: polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerin alkyl ethers, glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[000407] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'au moins tensioactif est un tensioactif anionique. [000407] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is an anionic surfactant.

[000408] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'au moins tensioactif est un tensioactif anionique choisi dans le groupe constitué par : les phosphates d'alkyle, les phosphates d'alkyléther de polyoxyalkylène, les sulfonates, les sulfates d'alkyles, les polyaspartates, leurs dérivés et leurs mélanges. [000408] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least surfactant is an anionic surfactant chosen from the group consisting of: alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether phosphates , sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, polyaspartates, their derivatives and their mixtures.

[000409] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que l'au moins tensioactif est un tensioactif amphotère. [000409] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least one surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant.

[000410] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins tensioactif est d'au moins 0,1% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000410] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is at least 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000411] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins tensioactif est d'au moins 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000411] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000412] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins tensioactif est compris entre 0,1% et 30% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000412] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is between 0.1% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .

[000413] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de l'au moins tensioactif est compris entre 5% et 15% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000413] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000414] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un mélange selon l'invention et au moins une phase aqueuse. [000414] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one aqueous phase.

[000415] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la phase aqueuse est constituée d'eau. [000416] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la phase aqueuse comprend de l'eau et au moins un solvant organique miscible à l'eau. [000415] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase consists of water. [000416] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one organic solvent miscible with water.

[000417] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que la phase aqueuse comprend au moins un solvant organique miscible à l'eau choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcools inférieurs comme l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le butanol, l'alcool isoamylique, les glycols comme l'éthylène glycol, le propylène glycol, le 1,3-butylène glycol, les cétones et les aldéhydes à chaînes courtes en C2-C4. [000417] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water chosen from the group consisting of lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ketones and short chain C2-C4 aldehydes.

[000418] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la phase aqueuse est compris entre 1 et 95% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000418] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 95% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000419] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la phase aqueuse est compris entre 5 et 80% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000419] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5 and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000420] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la phase aqueuse est compris entre 5 et 60% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000420] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5 and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000421] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la phase aqueuse est compris entre 1 et 50% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000421] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000422] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la phase aqueuse est compris entre 1 et 30% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000422] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000423] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la phase aqueuse est compris entre 10 et 40% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000423] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 10 and 40% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000424] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que le pourcentage massique de la phase aqueuse est compris entre 1 et 20% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition cosmétique. [000424] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[000425] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle présente un indice de naturalité supérieur ou égal à 80% de carbone 14 (14C) déterminé selon l'une des normes suivantes ASTM D6866, EN 16640 ou EN 16785-1. [000425] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has a naturalness index greater than or equal to 80% carbon 14 ( 14 C) determined according to one of the following ASTM standards D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.

[000426] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle présente un indice de naturalité supérieur ou égal à 85% de carbone 14 (14C) déterminé selon l'une des normes suivantes ASTM D6866, EN 16640 ou EN 16785-1. [000427] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle présente un indice de naturalité supérieur ou égal à 90% de carbone 14 (14C) déterminé selon l'une des normes suivantes ASTM D6866, EN 16640 ou EN 16785-1. [000426] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has a naturalness index greater than or equal to 85% carbon 14 ( 14 C) determined according to one of the following ASTM standards D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1. [000427] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has a naturalness index greater than or equal to 90% carbon 14 ( 14 C) determined according to one of the following ASTM standards D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.

[000428] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle présente un indice de naturalité supérieur ou égal à 95% de carbone 14 (14C) déterminé selon l'une des normes suivantes ASTM D6866, EN 16640 ou EN 16785-1. [000428] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has a naturalness index greater than or equal to 95% carbon 14 ( 14 C) determined according to one of the following ASTM standards D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.

[000429] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'au moins 85% massique de ses ingrédients est biosourcé par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [000429] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 85% by weight of its ingredients is biosourced relative to the total mass of the composition.

[000430] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'au moins 50% massique de ses ingrédients est d'origine naturelle par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [000430] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 50% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.

[000431] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'au moins 75% massique de ses ingrédients est d'origine naturelle par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [000431] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 75% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.

[000432] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'au moins 90% massique de ses ingrédients est d'origine naturelle par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [000432] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 90% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.

[000433] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que 50% massique de ses ingrédients est d'origine naturelle par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [000433] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that 50% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.

[000434] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que 75% massique de ses ingrédients est d'origine naturelle par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [000434] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that 75% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.

[000435] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que 90% massique de ses ingrédients est d'origine naturelle par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [000435] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that 90% by weight of its ingredients is of natural origin relative to the total mass of the composition.

[000436] L'invention concerne également l'utilisation du mélange selon l'invention pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique pour rouge à lèvres, rouge à lèvres longue tenue ou brillants pour lèvres. [000436] The invention also relates to the use of the mixture according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for lipstick, long-lasting lipstick or lip glosses.

[000437] Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par rouge à lèvre « longue tenue » ou encore appelé rouge à lèvres « non-transfert », un rouge à lèvres qui ne laisse pas de traces, résiste à l'eau et parfois au gras. [000437] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "long-lasting" lipstick or also called "non-transfer" lipstick means a lipstick which does not leave marks, is water-resistant and sometimes in fat.

[000438] De même, on entend par « brillant pour lèvres » ou encore appelé « gloss », un produit de maquillage qui donne un aspect brillant et/ou mouillé aux lèvres, et parfois, à les colorer voire les pailleter. Certains de ces brillants pour lèvres sont transparents et peuvent s'appliquer par-dessus un rouge à lèvres classique pour rajouter un effet de brillance. [000438] Likewise, the term “lip gloss” or even called “gloss” means a makeup product which gives a shiny and/or wet appearance to the lips, and sometimes, to color or even glitter them. Some of these lip glosses are transparent and can be applied over a classic lipstick to add a shine effect.

[000439] De manière classique, d'après l'ouvrage Conception des produits cosmétique : la formulation, d'Anne-Marie PENSE-LHERITIER édité en 2014 chez LAVOISIER, la composition d'un rouge à lèvre s'articule autour d'un binôme : base ou support Partie pigmentaire [000439] Classically, according to the book Design of cosmetic products: formulation, by Anne-Marie PENSE-LHERITIER published in 2014 by LAVOISIER, the composition of a lipstick is based around a binomial: base or support Pigmentary part

[000440] La base contient différents types d'ingrédients sélectionnés essentiellement sur leurs propriétés organoleptiques : des solvants volatils pour faciliter l'application et la tenue ; des huiles pour conférer glissant et facilité d'application ; des cires, pour fixer la consistance et la dureté ; des corps gras tels que les corps gras pâteux ou les gélifiants pour ajuster l'onctuosité et l'agrément d'usage. [000440] The base contains different types of ingredients selected essentially on their organoleptic properties: volatile solvents to facilitate application and hold; oils to provide slipperiness and ease of application; waxes, to fix consistency and hardness; fatty substances such as pasty fatty substances or gelling agents to adjust the smoothness and ease of use.

[000441] L'obtention d'un rouge à lèvres se fait par la recherche d'un subtil dosage entre ces différents ingrédients. [000441] Obtaining a lipstick is done by seeking a subtle dosage between these different ingredients.

[000442] A ces ingrédients peuvent s'ajouter différents additifs apportant des propriétés spécifiques : polymères, poudres absorbantes, additifs stabilisants (antioxydants, conservateurs, etc.), parfum et principes actifs le cas échéant. [000442] Various additives providing specific properties can be added to these ingredients: polymers, absorbent powders, stabilizing additives (antioxidants, preservatives, etc.), perfume and active ingredients where appropriate.

[000443] Dans un mode de réalisation, les compositions cosmétiques pour rouge à lèvres longue tenue, ou brillants pour lèvres comprenant le mélange selon l'invention présentent une excellente stabilité et de remarquables qualités cosmétiques comme une facilité d'application, une résistance à l'eau, une bonne tenue, une couleur intense et lumineuse. [000443] In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions for long-lasting lipstick, or lip glosses comprising the mixture according to the invention have excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic qualities such as ease of application, resistance to water, good hold, intense and luminous color.

[000444] L'invention concerne également l'utilisation du mélange selon l'invention pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique de maquillage pour les yeux. [000444] The invention also relates to the use of the mixture according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic eye makeup composition.

[000445] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est utilisé pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique de mascara ou d'eye-liner. [000445] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of a cosmetic mascara or eyeliner composition.

[000446] De manière classique, d'après l'ouvrage Conception des produits cosmétique : la formulation, d'Anne-Marie PENSE-LHERITIER édité en 2014 chez LAVOISIER, il existe principalement deux types de formulations de mascara : [000446] Classically, according to the book Design of cosmetic products: formulation, by Anne-Marie PENSE-LHERITIER published in 2014 by LAVOISIER, there are mainly two types of mascara formulations:

Les mascaras à phase aqueuse continue sont également appelés « mascara water based » Continuous water-based mascaras are also called “water-based mascara”

Les mascaras à phase huileuse continue sont également appelés « mascara waterproof » Continuous oil phase mascaras are also called “waterproof mascara”

[000447] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est utilisé pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques de mascaras à phase huileuse continue. [000448] Les mascaras à phase huileuse continue reposent principalement sur l'utilisation de cire où d'émulsion à phase huileuse continue. Le but est de former un film continu à la surface du cil, film parfaitement résistant à l'eau. [000447] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions of mascaras with a continuous oil phase. [000448] Continuous oil phase mascaras are mainly based on the use of wax or continuous oil phase emulsion. The goal is to form a continuous film on the surface of the eyelash, a film that is perfectly water resistant.

[000449] Pour ce faire, la composition de mascara comprend notamment une phase grasse et une partie pigmentaire et cette composition peut éventuellement comprendre une phase aqueuse. [000449] To do this, the mascara composition comprises in particular a fatty phase and a pigment part and this composition can optionally comprise an aqueous phase.

[000450] Dans un mode de réalisation, la composition de mascara comprenant le mélange selon l'invention comprend un pourcentage massique inférieur ou égal à 10% en eau par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [000450] In one embodiment, the mascara composition comprising the mixture according to the invention comprises a mass percentage less than or equal to 10% in water relative to the total mass of the composition.

[000451] Dans un mode de réalisation préférentiel, la composition de mascara comprenant le mélange selon l'invention est exempte d'une phase aqueuse. [000451] In a preferred embodiment, the mascara composition comprising the mixture according to the invention is free of an aqueous phase.

[000452] La phase grasse comprend notamment, les solvants volatils, les huiles, les tensioactifs, les cires, les gélifiants, les polymères filmogènes, et les conservateurs. [000452] The fatty phase includes in particular volatile solvents, oils, surfactants, waxes, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, and preservatives.

[000453] La partie pigmentaire comprend les colorants hydrosolubles, les colorants liposolubles, les pigments, les nacres et les paillettes. [000453] The pigment part includes water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearls and flakes.

[000454] L'obtention d'un mascara se fait par la recherche d'un subtil dosage entre ces différents ingrédients. [000454] Obtaining a mascara is done by searching for a subtle dosage between these different ingredients.

[000455] A ces ingrédients peuvent s'ajouter différents additifs apportant des propriétés spécifiques : polymères, poudres absorbantes, additifs stabilisants comme les antioxydants, parfum et principes actifs le cas échéant. [000455] Various additives providing specific properties can be added to these ingredients: polymers, absorbent powders, stabilizing additives such as antioxidants, perfume and active ingredients where appropriate.

[000456] Concernant les eye-liners, leur composition est similaire à celle des mascaras développés ci-dessus. [000456] Concerning eyeliners, their composition is similar to that of the mascaras developed above.

[000457] Dans un mode de réalisation, les composition cosmétiques pour les yeux, comme celles de mascara ou d'eye-liner, comprenant le mélange selon l'invention présentent une excellente stabilité et de remarquables qualités cosmétiques comme une facilité d'application, une résistance à l'eau, une bonne tenue et une couleur plus intense. [000457] In one embodiment, cosmetic compositions for the eyes, such as those of mascara or eyeliner, comprising the mixture according to the invention have excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic qualities such as ease of application, water resistance, good hold and a more intense color.

[000458] L'invention concerne également l'utilisation du mélange selon l'invention pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique applicable sur la peau. [000458] The invention also relates to the use of the mixture according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic composition applicable to the skin.

[000459] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est particulièrement utilisé pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques comme un primer ou base de maquillage, un fard à joues, un fard à paupières, un fond de teint ou une formulation démaquillante. [000459] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is particularly used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions such as a makeup primer or base, a blush, an eye shadow, a foundation or a makeup remover formulation. .

[000460] On entend par fond de teint une formulation destinée à unifier l'épiderme et à le colorer légèrement. Il doit être appliqué en couche uniforme mais également permettre l'estompage, sur le visage et une partie du cou. [000460] Foundation means a formulation intended to unify the epidermis and lightly color it. It must be applied in an even layer but also allow for blending, on the face and part of the neck.

[000461] De même on entend par base, primer ou encore base du maquillage une composition cosmétique qui permet d'estomper les imperfections de la peau et empêche le maquillage de se déposer dans des rides, des pores au fil de la journée. Ainsi, cette formulation permet de perfectionner la peau avant d'appliquer un fond de teint, un fard à joues, etc. [000461] Likewise, the term base, primer or even makeup base is understood to mean a cosmetic composition which makes it possible to blur skin imperfections and prevents makeup from settling into wrinkles and pores throughout the day. Thus, this formulation makes it possible to perfect the skin before applying foundation, blush, etc.

[000462] On appelle fard à joues ou encore communément appelé « blush » une formulation cosmétique destinée à mimer, renforcer un visuel de « rose aux joues ». [000462] Blush or commonly called “blush” is a cosmetic formulation intended to mimic and reinforce a “rosy cheek” visual.

[000463] De même, on entend par, fard à paupières ou encore communément appelé « eye-shadow » des formulations cosmétiques applicables sur la paupière afin de mettre les yeux en valeur en créant des contrastes de couleurs. [000463] Likewise, by eye shadow or commonly called “eye-shadow” we mean cosmetic formulations applicable to the eyelid in order to highlight the eyes by creating color contrasts.

[000464] Par formulation démaquillante on entend une huile démaquillante mais également une formulation démaquillante biphasique qui permettent de nettoyer le visage du maquillage tout en respectant la peau de son utilisateur. [000464] By makeup remover formulation we mean a makeup remover oil but also a biphasic makeup remover formulation which makes it possible to clean the face of makeup while respecting the skin of its user.

[000465] Comme énoncé ci-dessus ces formulations démaquillantes peuvent se présenter sous la forme d'une huile démaquillante constituée d'huiles et de différents corps gras. [000465] As stated above, these make-up remover formulations can be in the form of a make-up remover oil made up of oils and different fatty substances.

[000466] Elles peuvent également se présenter sous la forme d'une formulation biphasique comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase huileuse. [000466] They can also be in the form of a biphasic formulation comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase.

[000467] De manière classique, le mélange selon l'invention est utilisé pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques applicables sur la peau, notamment des compositions de fond de teint et/ou de base qui peuvent être formulées sous une forme fluide ou solide de type poudre, libre compacte ou coulée. [000467] Conventionally, the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions applicable to the skin, in particular foundation and/or base compositions which can be formulated in a fluid or solid form of the type powder, loose compacted or cast.

[000468] Ces compositions peuvent notamment indépendamment l'une de l'autre se présenter sous une forme anhydre ou sous la forme d'une émulsion. [000468] These compositions can in particular, independently of each other, be presented in an anhydrous form or in the form of an emulsion.

[000469] Ces émulsions peuvent se présenter sous différentes formes à savoir sous la forme d'une émulsion huile dans eau, eau dans huile mais également dans certaines conditions sous forme d'émulsion multiples E/H/E (eau/huile/eau) ou encore H/E/H (huile/eau/huile) associant au moins une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse. [000469] These emulsions can be presented in different forms, namely in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion but also under certain conditions in the form of multiple W/O/W (water/oil/water) emulsions. or even O/W/O (oil/water/oil) combining at least one aqueous phase and one fatty phase.

[000470] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est utilisé pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique applicable sur la peau comportant au moins une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse. [000470] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of a cosmetic composition applicable to the skin comprising at least one aqueous phase and one fatty phase.

[000471] La phase aqueuse est essentiellement constituée d'eau. [000471] The aqueous phase consists essentially of water.

[000472] La phase grasse contient différents types d'ingrédients sélectionnés essentiellement sur leurs propriétés organoleptiques : des solvants volatils pour faciliter l'application et la tenue des huiles pour conférer glissant et facilité d'application des cires, pour fixer la consistance et la dureté des corps gras tels que les corps gras pâteux ou les gélifiants pour ajuster l'onctuosité et l'agrément d'usage. [000473] De manière générale, le mélange selon l'invention est utilisé pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique applicable sur la peau comportant une partie pigmentaire. [000472] The fatty phase contains different types of ingredients selected essentially on their organoleptic properties: volatile solvents to facilitate the application and hold of oils to give slipperiness and ease of application of waxes, to fix the consistency and hardness fatty substances such as pasty fatty substances or gelling agents to adjust the smoothness and ease of use. [000473] Generally, the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of a cosmetic composition applicable to the skin comprising a pigmentary part.

[000474] L'obtention d'une composition cosmétique applicable sur la peau satisfaisante se fait par la recherche d'un subtil dosage entre ces différents ingrédients. [000475] A ces ingrédients peuvent s'ajouter différents additifs apportant des propriétés spécifiques : polymères, poudres absorbantes, additifs stabilisants (antioxydants, conservateurs, etc.), parfum et principes actifs le cas échéant. [000474] Obtaining a satisfactory cosmetic composition applicable to the skin is achieved by seeking a subtle dosage between these different ingredients. [000475] Various additives providing specific properties can be added to these ingredients: polymers, absorbent powders, stabilizing additives (antioxidants, preservatives, etc.), perfume and active ingredients where appropriate.

[000476] Dans un mode de réalisation, les compositions cosmétiques applicables sur la peau comme les bases ou primers, les fonds de teint ou les poudres, comprenant le mélange selon l'invention présentent une excellente stabilité et de remarquables propriétés cosmétiques comme une facilité d'application, une résistance à l'eau, une bonne tenue, une couleur plus intense et lumineuse. [000476] In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions applicable to the skin such as bases or primers, foundations or powders, comprising the mixture according to the invention have excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic properties such as ease of application. application, water resistance, good hold, more intense and luminous color.

[000477] L'invention concerne également l'utilisation du mélange selon l'invention pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux. [000477] The invention also relates to the use of the mixture according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[000478] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est utilisé pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques sous forme de solution, de dispersion, d'émulsion huile/eau, d'émulsion eau/huile, d'émulsion eau/huile/eau, de poudre, de talc, d'éponge, de mousse, de laque et de gel. [000479] Dans un mode de réalisation, le mélange selon l'invention est utilisé pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques comme les tonifiants pour cheveux, les teintures capillaires, les produits coiffants pour cheveux, les shampooings, les conditionneurs capillaires, les après-shampooings, les shampooings de conditionnement, les produits de cure capillaire, les sprays capillaires, les masques capillaires, les produits de soins pour cheveux, les produits de traitement pour cheveux, les solutions de fixation des permanentes, les produits de mise en forme de cheveux, les shampooings pour cheveux colorés, les fixateurs capillaires, les produits de tenue de cheveux, les préparations pour le coiffage des cheveux, les produits capillaires sans rinçage, les lotions pour fer à friser, les mousses fixantes, les gels capillaires, les cires capillaires ou les combinaisons de ceux-ci. [000478] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers in the form of solution, dispersion, oil/water emulsion, water/oil emulsion , water/oil/water emulsion, powder, talc, sponge, foam, hairspray and gel. [000479] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers such as hair toners, hair dyes, hair styling products, shampoos, conditioners hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair treatment products, hair sprays, hair masks, hair care products, hair treatment products, perm setting solutions, hair conditioning products hair styling, shampoos for colored hair, hair fixatives, hair holding products, hair styling preparations, leave-in hair products, curling iron lotions, setting mousses, gels hair products, hair waxes or combinations thereof.

[000480] Dans un mode de réalisation, les compositions cosmétiques pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux, comprenant le mélange selon l'invention présentent une excellente stabilité et de remarquables propriétés cosmétiques comme une facilité d'application, une bonne tenue, une couleur lumineuse et un brillant intense. [000480] In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the mixture according to the invention have excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic properties such as ease of application, good hold , a luminous color and an intense shine.

[000481] Les exemples suivants sont donnés afin d'illustrer l'invention. [000481] The following examples are given in order to illustrate the invention.

[000482] Méthode de détermination de la viscosité [000483] La viscosité est déterminée à l'aide d' un viscosimétre automatique de type Brookfield. [000482] Method for determining viscosity [000483] The viscosity is determined using a Brookfield type automatic viscometer.

[000484] Le type de mobile et la vitesse du mobile sont adaptés à la gamme de mesure. [000484] The type of mobile and the speed of the mobile are adapted to the measurement range.

[000485] Le résultat de la mesure est la viscosité dynamique exprimée en cP ou mPa.s. [000485] The result of the measurement is the dynamic viscosity expressed in cP or mPa.s.

[000486] Cette valeur divisée par la densité du produit permet d'obtenir la viscosité cinématique exprimée en cSt ou mm2. s -1. [000486] This value divided by the density of the product makes it possible to obtain the kinematic viscosity expressed in cSt or mm 2 . s -1 .

[000487] Méthode de détermination de l'indice acide [000487] Method for determining the acid number

[000488] La quantité d'acides libres est déterminée en utilisant la méthode NF EN ISO 660. [000488] The quantity of free acids is determined using the NF EN ISO 660 method.

[000489] Méthode de détermination de l'indice hydroxyle [000489] Method for determining the hydroxyl number

[000490] La quantité d'hydroxyles libres est déterminée en utilisant la méthode NF ISO 4629 4629-2. [000490] The quantity of free hydroxyl is determined using the NF ISO 4629 4629-2 method.

[000491] Méthode de détermination de la densité [000491] Method for determining density

[000492] La densité est mesurée à l'aide d'un appareil DENSITO de Mettler Toledo.[000492] The density is measured using a DENSITO device from Mettler Toledo.

Elle est exprimée en g. cm-3. It is expressed in g. cm -3 .

[000493] Méthode de mesure de l'indice de réfraction [000493] Method of measuring the refractive index

[000494] L'indice de réfraction est mesuré à l'aide d'un appareil automatique de type Model RFM330-M, Belligham and Stanley Ltd. [000494] The refractive index is measured using an automatic device of the Model RFM330-M type, Belligham and Stanley Ltd.

Exemple 1 : procédé de préparation d'un mélange selon l'invention Example 1: process for preparing a mixture according to the invention

[000495] Dans un réacteur de 700 L équipé d'un système de chauffage, d'une agitation et d'un système de tirage au vide sont chargés 47,5 kg de diacide C36 (Pripol 1009, Croda), 54 kg de diol C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda) et 41,4 kg de squalane (Squalive, Biosynthis). [000495] 47.5 kg of C36 diacid (Pripol 1009, Croda), 54 kg of diol are loaded into a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and a vacuum system. C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda) and 41.4 kg of squalane (Squalive, Biosynthis).

[000496] La pression est abaissée à 10 mbar tandis que la température du mélange sous agitation est progressivement montée à 220°C. [000496] The pressure is lowered to 10 mbar while the temperature of the mixture with stirring gradually rises to 220°C.

[000497] 5 kg d'eau sont récupérés par condensation lors de la réaction d'estérification. [000497] 5 kg of water are recovered by condensation during the esterification reaction.

[000498] La température du milieu réactionnel est ensuite abaissée à 100°C et la pression est remise à pression atmosphérique. [000498] The temperature of the reaction medium is then lowered to 100°C and the pressure is returned to atmospheric pressure.

[000499] Le mélange obtenu, 138 kg, est composé de 70% de polyester et de 30% de squalane en masse. [000499] The mixture obtained, 138 kg, is composed of 70% polyester and 30% squalane by mass.

[000500] Le mélange selon l'invention a une viscosité de 384 515 cSt à 40°C, une densité de 0,8699 à 40°C, un indice acide de 0,34 mg KOH/g, un indice de réfraction de 1,4775 à 20°C et un indice hydroxyle de 10 mg KOH/g. Exemple 2 : procédé de préparation d'un mélange selon l'invention [000500] The mixture according to the invention has a viscosity of 384,515 cSt at 40°C, a density of 0.8699 at 40°C, an acid number of 0.34 mg KOH/g, a refractive index of 1 .4775 at 20°C and a hydroxyl number of 10 mg KOH/g. Example 2: process for preparing a mixture according to the invention

[000501] Dans un réacteur de 700 L équipé d'un système de chauffage, d'une agitation et d'un système de tirage au vide sont chargés 47,5 kg de diacide C36 (Pripol 2009, Croda), 54 kg de diol C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda), 41,4 kg de squalène (Vegetable squalene ST, Biosynthis) et 0,1 kg d'acide méthanesulfonique. [000501] 47.5 kg of C36 diacid (Pripol 2009, Croda), 54 kg of diol are loaded into a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and a vacuum system. C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda), 41.4 kg of squalene (Vegetable squalene ST, Biosynthis) and 0.1 kg of methanesulfonic acid.

[000502] La pression est abaissée à 10 mbar tandis que la température du mélange sous agitation est progressivement montée à 160°C. [000502] The pressure is lowered to 10 mbar while the temperature of the mixture with stirring gradually rises to 160°C.

[000503] 5 kg d'eau sont récupérés par condensation lors de la réaction d'estérification. [000503] 5 kg of water are recovered by condensation during the esterification reaction.

[000504] La température du milieu réactionnel est ensuite abaissée à 100°C et la pression est remise à pression atmosphérique. [000504] The temperature of the reaction medium is then lowered to 100°C and the pressure is returned to atmospheric pressure.

[000505] Le mélange obtenu, 138 kg, est composé de 70% de polyester et de 30% de squalène en masse. [000505] The mixture obtained, 138 kg, is composed of 70% polyester and 30% squalene by mass.

[000506] Le mélange selon l'invention a une viscosité de 266 007 cSt à 40°C, une densité de 0,8699 à 40°C, un indice acide de 0,81 mg KOH/g, un indice de réfraction de 1,4906 à 20°C et un indice hydroxyle de 10 mg KOH/g. [000506] The mixture according to the invention has a viscosity of 266,007 cSt at 40°C, a density of 0.8699 at 40°C, an acid number of 0.81 mg KOH/g, a refractive index of 1 .4906 at 20°C and a hydroxyl number of 10 mg KOH/g.

Exemple 3 : procédé de préparation d'un mélange selon l'invention Example 3: process for preparing a mixture according to the invention

[000507] Dans un réacteur de 700 L équipé d'un système de chauffage, d'une agitation et d'un système de tirage au vide sont chargés 47,5 kg de diacide C36 (Pripol 1009, Croda), 54 kg de diol C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda), 41,4 kg d'un mélange d'alcanes C16-C18 (Vegelight 1618, Biosynthis) et 0,1 kg d'oxalate d'étain. [000507] 47.5 kg of C36 diacid (Pripol 1009, Croda), 54 kg of diol are loaded into a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and a vacuum system. C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda), 41.4 kg of a mixture of C16-C18 alkanes (Vegelight 1618, Biosynthis) and 0.1 kg of tin oxalate.

[000508] La pression est abaissée à 200 mbar tandis que la température du mélange sous agitation est progressivement montée à 170°C. [000508] The pressure is lowered to 200 mbar while the temperature of the mixture with stirring gradually rises to 170°C.

[000509] 5 kg d'eau sont récupérés par condensation lors de la réaction d'estérification. [000509] 5 kg of water are recovered by condensation during the esterification reaction.

[000510] La température du milieu réactionnel est ensuite abaissée à 100°C et la pression est remise à pression atmosphérique. [000510] The temperature of the reaction medium is then lowered to 100°C and the pressure is returned to atmospheric pressure.

[000511] Le mélange obtenu, 138 kg, est composé de 70% de polyester et de 30% d'un mélange d'alcanes C16-C18 en masse. [000511] The mixture obtained, 138 kg, is composed of 70% polyester and 30% of a mixture of C16-C18 alkanes by mass.

[000512] Le mélange selon l'invention a une viscosité de 120080 cSt à 40°C, une densité de 0,8436 à 40°C, un indice acide de 0,20 mg KOH/g, un indice de réfraction de 1,4697 de 20°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 10 mg KOH/g. [000512] The mixture according to the invention has a viscosity of 120080 cSt at 40°C, a density of 0.8436 at 40°C, an acid number of 0.20 mg KOH/g, a refractive index of 1, 4697 of 20°C and a hydroxyl number less than 10 mg KOH/g.

Exemple 4 : composition cosmétique de sérum pour cheveux comprenant un mélange selon l'invention Example 4: cosmetic hair serum composition comprising a mixture according to the invention

[000513] Une composition cosmétique de sérum pour cheveux est préparée à partir du mélange selon l'invention préparé selon le procédé décrit dans l'exemple 1. [000514] Ce mélange est composé de 70% en masse de polyester issu de la réaction entre le diacide C36 (Pripol 1009, Croda) et le diol C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda) et de 30% en masse de squalane. [000513] A cosmetic hair serum composition is prepared from the mixture according to the invention prepared according to the process described in Example 1. [000514] This mixture is composed of 70% by mass of polyester resulting from the reaction between the diacid C36 (Pripol 1009, Croda) and the diol C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda) and 30% by mass of squalane.

[000515] La composition détaillée de cette formulation cosmétique de sérum pour cheveux est donnée dans le tableau ci-dessous : [000515] The detailed composition of this cosmetic formulation of hair serum is given in the table below:

[Tableau 1] [Table 1]

[000516] Les ingrédients de la phase 1 sont dispersés à l'Ultra-Turrax™. [000516] The ingredients of phase 1 are dispersed using Ultra-Turrax™.

[000517] Les phases 1 et 2 sont ensuite mélangées pour obtenir un sérum pour cheveux. [000517] Phases 1 and 2 are then mixed to obtain a hair serum.

[000518] La composition cosmétique de sérum pour cheveux comprenant un mélange selon l'invention présente les caractéristiques suivantes : un indice de réfraction de 1,4348 à 20°C et une viscosité de 33 cSt à 25°C. [000518] The cosmetic hair serum composition comprising a mixture according to the invention has the following characteristics: a refractive index of 1.4348 at 20°C and a viscosity of 33 cSt at 25°C.

Exemple 5 : composition cosmétique de mascara comprenant un mélange selon l'invention Example 5: cosmetic mascara composition comprising a mixture according to the invention

[000519] Une composition cosmétique de mascara est préparée à partir d'un mélange selon l'invention préparé selon le procédé décrit dans l'exemple 2. [000519] A cosmetic mascara composition is prepared from a mixture according to the invention prepared according to the process described in Example 2.

[000520] Ce mélange est composé de 70% en masse de polyester issu de la réaction entre le diacide C36 (Pripol 1009, Croda) et le diol C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda) et de 30% en masse de squalène. [000520] This mixture is composed of 70% by mass of polyester resulting from the reaction between the diacid C36 (Pripol 1009, Croda) and the diol C36 (Pripol 2033, Croda) and 30% by mass of squalene.

[000521] La composition détaillée de cette formulation cosmétique de sérum pour cheveux est donnée dans le tableau ci-dessous : [000521] The detailed composition of this cosmetic formulation of hair serum is given in the table below:

[Tableau 2] [Table 2]

[000522] Les ingrédients de la phase 1 sont mélangés et le mélange est chauffé à 40°C maximum. [000522] The ingredients of phase 1 are mixed and the mixture is heated to a maximum of 40°C.

[000523] Les ingrédients de la phase 2 sont mélangés et chauffés à 60°C. [000523] The ingredients of phase 2 are mixed and heated to 60°C.

[000524] La phase 2 est ajoutée à la phase 1. [000524] Phase 2 is added to phase 1.

[000525] Puis, la phase 3 est ajoutée au mélange des phases 1 et 2. [000525] Then, phase 3 is added to the mixture of phases 1 and 2.

[000526] La phase 4 est progressivement ajoutée aux mélanges des phases 1, 2 et 3 sous vive agitation. [000526] Phase 4 is gradually added to the mixtures of phases 1, 2 and 3 with vigorous stirring.

[000527] Enfin, les ingrédients de la phase 5 sont ajoutés au mélange des phases 1, 2, 3 et 4. [000527] Finally, the ingredients of phase 5 are added to the mixture of phases 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Exemple 6 : procédé de préparation d'un Viscoplast ultra-visqueux. Example 6: process for preparing an ultra-viscous Viscoplast.

[000528] Dans un réacteur de 700L, équipé d'un système de chauffage, d'une agitation et d'un système de tirage au vide sont chargés : 166 kg de diacide C36 (Pripol 1009 de CRODA), 30kg de 1,4 Butanediol (1,4BDO de BRENNTAG), 4 kg de diol C36 (Pripol 2033 de CRODA) et 2 kg de catalyseur B, qui est de l'oxalate d'étain. [000528] In a 700L reactor, equipped with a heating system, stirring and a vacuum system are loaded: 166 kg of C36 diacid (Pripol 1009 from CRODA), 30kg of 1.4 Butanediol (1.4BDO from BRENNTAG), 4 kg of diol C36 (Pripol 2033 from CRODA) and 2 kg of catalyst B, which is tin oxalate.

[000529] Le mélange est agité et la pression est abaissée progressivement à une pression de 10 mbar. [000529] The mixture is stirred and the pressure is gradually lowered to a pressure of 10 mbar.

[000530] La température est ensuite élevée progressivement jusqu'à 170°C. [000530] The temperature is then gradually raised to 170°C.

[000531] Au cours de l'estérification, 12kg d'eau et de BDO excédentaire sont évaporés. [000532] La température est ensuite abaissée à 100°C et la pression est remise à pression atmosphérique. [000531] During esterification, 12kg of water and excess BDO are evaporated. [000532] The temperature is then lowered to 100°C and the pressure is returned to atmospheric pressure.

[000533] Le mélange obtenu, 200 kg, est composé à 100 % de Viscoplast ultra visqueux. [000533] The mixture obtained, 200 kg, is composed of 100% ultra viscous Viscoplast.

[000534] Le Viscoplast ultra visqueux possède une masse moléculaire de 142 261 g/mol mesurée par Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC), et il présente une viscosité de 500 000 cSt, une densité de à 40°C de 0,9500, un indice hydroxyle de 30 mg KOH/g, un Indice acide de 2,0 mg KOH/g et un indice de réfraction à 20°C de 1,4853. [000534] The ultra-viscous Viscoplast has a molecular mass of 142,261 g/mol measured by Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC), and it has a viscosity of 500,000 cSt, a density of 0.9500 at 40°C, an index hydroxyl of 30 mg KOH/g, an acid index of 2.0 mg KOH/g and a refractive index at 20°C of 1.4853.

Exemple 7 : Procédé de préparation d'un viscoplast ultra-visqueux. Example 7: Process for preparing an ultra-viscous viscoplast.

Dans un réacteur de 300L, équipé d'un système de chauffage, d'une agitation et d'un système de tirage au vide sont chargés : 166kg de diacide C36 (pripol 1009 de croda), 27kg de 1,4 Butanediol (1,4BDO de brenntag), et 0,2kg de catalyseur acide A, qui est l'acide méthane sulfonique. Le mélange est agité et la pression est abaissée progressivement à une pression de 10 mbar. La température est ensuite élevée progressivement jusqu'à 170°C. au cours de l'estérification, 10,5kg d'eau et de BDO excédentaire sont évaporés. La température est ensuite abaissée à 100°C et la pression est remise à pression atmosphérique. Le mélange réactionnel est soutiré 182,7kg et est composé de 100% de viscoplast ultra visqueux. In a 300L reactor, equipped with a heating system, stirring and a vacuum system are loaded: 166kg of C36 diacid (pripol 1009 from croda), 27kg of 1.4 Butanediol (1, 4BDO from brenntag), and 0.2kg of acid catalyst A, which is methane sulfonic acid. The mixture is stirred and the pressure is gradually lowered to a pressure of 10 mbar. The temperature is then gradually raised to 170°C. during esterification, 10.5 kg of water and excess BDO are evaporated. The temperature is then lowered to 100°C and the pressure is returned to atmospheric pressure. The reaction mixture is drawn off 182.7 kg and is composed of 100% ultra viscous viscoplast.

Cette composition présente les caractéristiques suivantes : une viscosité de 1 600 000 cST, une densité de à 40°C de 0,9500, un Indice acide de 1,7 mg KOH/g et un indice de réfraction à 20°C de 1,4853. This composition has the following characteristics: a viscosity of 1,600,000 cST, a density of 0.9500 at 40°C, an acid index of 1.7 mg KOH/g and a refractive index at 20°C of 1. 4853.

[000535] En comparaison, un Viscoplast préparé suivant une protocole de l'art antérieur tel que le VISCOPLAST GREEN 3 000, présentant une viscosité de 3 000 cSt, et possède une masse moléculaire moyenne de 20 602 g/mol mesurée par Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) ainsi qu'une densité de 0,9500. [000535] In comparison, a Viscoplast prepared according to a protocol of the prior art such as VISCOPLAST GREEN 3,000, having a viscosity of 3,000 cSt, and has an average molecular mass of 20,602 g/mol measured by Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) as well as a density of 0.9500.

[000536] En conclusion, les Viscoplasts obtenus par un procédé selon l'invention présentent à la fois des indices hydroxyles plus faibles que ceux de l’art antérieur, tout en présentant des viscosités et des masses moléculaires plus élevées. [000536] In conclusion, the Viscoplasts obtained by a process according to the invention have both lower hydroxyl indices than those of the prior art, while having higher viscosities and molecular masses.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS [Revendication 1] Mélange comprenant : a) au moins un polyester issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, l'au moins un polyester présentant une viscosité d'au moins 200 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 30 mg KOH/g, b) au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [Claim 1] Mixture comprising: a) at least one polyester resulting from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, the at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 30 mg KOH/g, b) at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound. [Revendication 2] Polyester issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, l'au moins un polyester présentant une viscosité d'au moins 500 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 30 mg KOH/g. [Claim 2] Polyester resulting from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol bearing at least two hydroxyl functions, the at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 30 mg KOH/g. [Revendication 3] Mélange selon la revendication 1 ou polyester selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que l'au moins un polyester est issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique d'origine végétale et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles d'origine végétale. [Claim 3] Mixture according to claim 1 or polyester according to claim 2, characterized in that the at least one polyester comes from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer of plant origin and at least one alcohol carrying least two hydroxyl functions of plant origin. [Revendication 4] Mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes ou polyester selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 3, caractérisé en ce que l'au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les dimères d'acide oléique hydrogénés, les dimères d'acide linoléiques et/ou linoléniques hydrogénés, seuls ou en mélange. [Claim 4] Mixture according to any one of the preceding claims or polyester according to any one of claims 2 to 3, characterized in that the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer is chosen from the group consisting of acid dimers hydrogenated oleic acid, hydrogenated linoleic and/or linolenic acid dimers, alone or in mixture. [Revendication 5] Mélange selon la revendication 4 ou polyester selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que l'au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique est le composé de numéro CAS 68783-41-5. [Claim 5] Blend according to claim 4 or polyester according to claim 4, characterized in that the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer is the compound with CAS number 68783-41-5. [Revendication 6] Mélange selon la revendication 3 ou polyester selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce que l'au moins un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles est choisi dans le groupe constitué par le (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18- hydroxyoctadéca-6,9-dienoxy]octadéca-9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), le 1,4- butanediol, le 1,3-propanediol, le 1,5-pentanediol et leurs mélanges. [Claim 6] Mixture according to claim 3 or polyester according to claim 3, characterized in that the at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions is chosen from the group consisting of (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z, 9Z)-18- hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienoxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), 1,4- butanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol and mixtures thereof. [Revendication 7] Mélange selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que l'au moins composé hydrocarboné biosourcé est un composé non volatile. [Claim 7] Mixture according to claim 1 characterized in that the at least biosourced hydrocarbon compound is a non-volatile compound. [Revendication 8] Mélange selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que l'au moins composé hydrocarboné biosourcé est d'origine végétale. [Claim 8] Mixture according to claim 1 characterized in that the at least biosourced hydrocarbon compound is of plant origin. [Revendication 9] Mélange selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que l'au moins composé hydrocarbonée biosourcé est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés comportant au moins 12 atomes de carbone, seuls ou en mélange. [Claim 9] Mixture according to claim 1 characterized in that the at least biosourced hydrocarbon compound is chosen from the group consisting of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkanes comprising at least 12 carbon atoms, alone or in a mixture. [Revendication 10] Mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications 7 à 9 caractérisé en ce que l'au moins composé hydrocarboné biosourcé est choisie dans le groupe constititué par le squalane, le squalène et les mélanges d'alcanes C16-C18.[Claim 10] Mixture according to any one of claims 7 to 9 characterized in that the at least biosourced hydrocarbon compound is chosen from the group consisting of squalane, squalene and mixtures of C16-C18 alkanes. [Revendication 11] Mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes caractérisé en ce qu'il présente un pourcentage supérieur ou égal à 85% de carbone 14 (14C) déterminé selon l'une des normes suivantes ASTM D6866, EN 16640 ou EN 16785-1. [Claim 11] Mixture according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a percentage greater than or equal to 85% of carbon 14 (14C) determined according to one of the following standards ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785 -1. [Revendication 12] Mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend au moins 50 % en masse de l'au moins un polyester issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles et au moins 10% en masse d'au moins une composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [Claim 12] Mixture according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of at least one polyester resulting from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions and at least 10% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound. [Revendication 13] Mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes caractérisé en ce qu'il contient de 50 à 90 % en masse de l'au moins un polyester issu d'une réaction entre au moins un dimère acide dicarboxylique et au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles et 10 à 50% en masse d'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé. [Claim 13] Mixture according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 50 to 90% by mass of at least one polyester resulting from a reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions and 10 to 50% by mass of at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound. [Revendication 14] Procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : a) on dispose d'au moins un dimère d'acide carboxylique, b) on dispose d'au moins un alcool portant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyles, c) on dispose d'au moins un composé hydrocarboné biosourcé, d) on mélange les composés des étapes a), b) et c), e) on abaisse la pression du mélange à une pression comprise entre 900 et 10 mbar, f) on chauffe progressivement le mélange à une température cible comprise entre 150°C et 250°C, g) on élimine en continu l'eau formée lors de la réaction de condensation, h) on obtient un mélange comprenant un polyester et le composé hydrocarboné biosourcé, caractérisé en ce que les composés des étapes a), b) et c) peuvent être mélangés dans un ordre quelconque lors de l'étape d). [Claim 14] Process for obtaining the mixture according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) there is at least one carboxylic acid dimer, b) there is at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, c) we have at least one biosourced hydrocarbon compound, d) we mix the compounds of steps a), b) and c), e) we lower the pressure of the mixture to a pressure of between 900 and 10 mbar, f) the mixture is gradually heated to a target temperature of between 150°C and 250°C, g) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, h) the water formed during the condensation reaction is continuously eliminated, obtains a mixture comprising a polyester and the biosourced hydrocarbon compound, characterized in that the compounds of steps a), b) and c) can be mixed in any order during step d). [Revendication 15] Procédé d'obtention du mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 13 caractérisé en ce qu'au moins un catalyseur est ajouté au mélange obtenu lors de l'étape d) du procédé selon la revendication 14. [Claim 15] Process for obtaining the mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that at least one catalyst is added to the mixture obtained during step d) of the process according to claim 14. [Revendication 16] Procédé selon la revendication 13, caractérisé en ce que le polyester obtenu à l'étape h), présente une viscosité d'au moins 1 000 000 cSt à 40°C et un indice hydroxyle inférieur à 15 mg KOH/g. [Claim 16] Process according to claim 13, characterized in that the polyester obtained in step h), has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number less than 15 mg KOH/g . [Revendication 17] Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 13 à 14, caractérisé en ce que en ce que le dimère acide dicarboxylique est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les dimères d'acide oléique hydrogénés, les dimères d'acide linoléique et/ou linoléniques hydrogénés, et l'au moins un alcool portant deux fonctions hydroxyles est choisi dans le groupe constitué par le (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadéca- 6,9-dienoxy]octadéca-9,12-dièn-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), le 1,4-butanediol, le 1,3- propanediol, le 1,5-pentanediol et leurs mélanges. [Claim 17] Method according to any one of claims 13 to 14, characterized in that the dicarboxylic acid dimer is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogenated oleic acid dimers, linoleic acid dimers and/ or hydrogenated linolenics, and the at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions is chosen from the group consisting of (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca- 6,9-dienoxy]octadeca- 9,12-dien-l-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol and their mixtures. [Revendication 18] Composition cosmétique comprenant un mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 12 et au moins un composé choisi parmi les huiles non volatiles, les huiles volatiles, les huiles brillantes, les corps gras pâteux, les gélifiants, les polymères filmogènes, les cires, les anti-oxydants, les pigments, les colorants, les tensioactifs, une phase aqueuse, et leurs mélanges. [Claim 18] Cosmetic composition comprising a mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12 and at least one compound chosen from non-volatile oils, volatile oils, shiny oils, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, film-forming polymers , waxes, anti-oxidants, pigments, dyes, surfactants, an aqueous phase, and mixtures thereof. [Revendication 19] Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 17, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en pourcentage massique de mélange est supérieur ou égal à 5% par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [Claim 19] Cosmetic composition according to claim 17, characterized in that the mass percentage content of the mixture is greater than or equal to 5% relative to the total mass of the composition. [Revendication 20] Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 17 et 18 caractérisée en ce que la composition cosmétique présente un pourcentage supérieur ou égal à 80% de carbone 14 (14C) déterminé selon l'une des normes suivantes ASTM D6866, EN 16640 ou EN 16785-1. [Claim 20] Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 17 and 18 characterized in that the cosmetic composition has a percentage greater than or equal to 80% of carbon 14 (14C) determined according to one of the following standards ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1. [Revendication 21] Utilisation du mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 12, pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique pour rouge à lèvres, rouge à lèvres longue tenue ou brillants pour lèvres. [Claim 21] Use of the mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12, for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for lipstick, long-lasting lipstick or lip glosses. [Revendication 22] Utilisation du mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 12, pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique de maquillage pour les yeux. [Claim 22] Use of the mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12, for the preparation of a cosmetic eye makeup composition. [Revendication 23] Utilisation du mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 12, pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique applicable sur la peau. [Claim 23] Use of the mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12, for the preparation of a cosmetic composition applicable to the skin. [Revendication 24] Utilisation du mélange selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 12, pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique pour le traitement des fibres kérati niques. [Claim 24] Use of the mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12, for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibers.
EP23723193.1A 2022-05-02 2023-05-02 Polyester, viscous mixture, process for preparing same and cosmetic composition Pending EP4518833A1 (en)

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