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EP4452190A1 - Composition stable comprenant un rétinoïde et un composé d'acide ascorbique - Google Patents

Composition stable comprenant un rétinoïde et un composé d'acide ascorbique

Info

Publication number
EP4452190A1
EP4452190A1 EP22844304.0A EP22844304A EP4452190A1 EP 4452190 A1 EP4452190 A1 EP 4452190A1 EP 22844304 A EP22844304 A EP 22844304A EP 4452190 A1 EP4452190 A1 EP 4452190A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
composition
composition according
oil
ascorbic acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22844304.0A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Yuichi Ikeda
Makoto Saito
Yukinori Yamada
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from JP2021205993A external-priority patent/JP2023091313A/ja
Priority claimed from FR2200438A external-priority patent/FR3131837B1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP4452190A1 publication Critical patent/EP4452190A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/671—Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/733—Alginic acid; Salts thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which is stable and comprises at least one retinoid and at least one ascorbic acid compound.
  • Retinoids have been known to be useful in the field of, for example, cosmetics because they can function as anti-aging active ingredients which may be used for wrinkle treatments and the like.
  • Ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives are commonly used as a result of their many beneficial properties.
  • ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of the connective tissue and in particular of collagen, strengthens the defenses of the cutaneous tissue against external attacks, such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for vitamin E deficiency of the skin, depigments the skin and has a role in combating free radicals.
  • the composition is destabilized such that the color (in particular, brightness among the three attributes of color) of the composition changes.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition including both at least one retinoid and at least one ascorbic acid compound wherein the composition is stable such that the change in color (in particular, brightness) of the composition can be reduced.
  • composition preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
  • a plurality of capsules each of which comprises at least one core, and at least one shell surrounding the core, wherein the core comprises (a) at least one retinoid, and (b) at least one oil, and the shell comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide;
  • the (2) an aqueous phase comprising (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and (e) water, wherein the (1) capsules are dispersed in the (2) aqueous phase.
  • the (a) retinoid may be retinol.
  • the amount of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) oil may be selected from triglycerides, preferably triglycerides having at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue, and more preferably triglycerides having at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue.
  • the (b) oil may be selected from plant oils, preferably selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, com oil, cotton seed oil, grape seed oil, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) polysaccharide may be selected from agar, alginate, carrageenan and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (c) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (d) ascorbic acid compound may be selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid salts, ascorbic acid esters and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (d) ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the core may further comprise (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent, preferably selected from biodegradable lipophilic antioxidant agents, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and a mixture thereof.
  • at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent preferably selected from biodegradable lipophilic antioxidant agents, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the amended claims may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase may further comprise (g) at least one compound which is capable of providing a solution thereof with a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, and more preferably 2% or less, for light with a wavelength of from 290 to 420 run, along a light path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.
  • compositions including both at least one retinoid and at least one ascorbic acid compound wherein the composition is stable such that the change in color (in particular, brightness) of the composition can be reduced.
  • composition according to the present invention may be characterized by separating a retinoid and an ascorbic acid compound in a single composition by encapsulating the retinoid into a capsule such that the ascorbic acid compound which is not present in the capsule is difficult to contact the retinoid in the capsule.
  • the destabilization e.g., change in color, in particular brightness
  • composition according to the present invention is stable and the color change (in particular, in brightness) of the composition over time can be reduced.
  • the capsule includes not only retinoid but also oil, and the capsules are dispersed in an aqueous phase including the ascorbic acid compound and water. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an O/W type.
  • the composition according to the present invention is stable or the change in color (in particular, brightness) of the composition over time can be reduced, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period of time.
  • composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects base on, at least, the retinoid and the ascorbic acid compound included in the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can provide stable cosmetic effects, such as anti-aging (e.g., diminishing wrinkles), whitening skin, improving skin dullness, and improving skin smoothness, over time, based on the retinoid and the ascorbic acid compound in the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can include a higher amount of retinoid and a higher amount of ascorbic acid compound. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide enhanced cosmetic effects, and possibly synergistic cosmetic effects, by a combination of the higher amount of retinoid and the higher amount of ascorbic acid compound.
  • composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one retinoid.
  • Two or more retinoids may be used in combination.
  • a single type of retinoid or a combination of different types of retinoid may be used.
  • the (a) retinoid may be retinol (vitamin A), retinal (vitamin A aldehyde), retinoic acid (vitamin A acid), or an ester of retinol and of a C2-20 acid, such as the propionate, the acetate, the linoleate or the palmitate of retinol (retinyl palmitate).
  • retinol retinol
  • retinal retinoic acid
  • 13 -cis retinoic acid retinol derivatives, such as retinyl acetate, propionate or palmitate, and the retinoids described in the following patent applications: FR 2 370 377, EP 0 199 636.
  • the (a) retinoid is retinol or proretinol.
  • retinol is intended to mean all the isomers of retinol, i.e., all-trans retinol, 13 -cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, 9-cis retinol and 3,4-didehydro retinol.
  • proretinol As a representative of proretinol, mention may be made of retinyl palmitate.
  • the (a) retinoid be retinol.
  • the amount of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1.0% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oil.
  • Two or more oils may be used in combination.
  • a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
  • oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the (a) retinoid be soluble in the (b) oil.
  • the (b) oil in which the (a) retinoid is soluble.
  • the (b) oil may be selected from polar or non-polar oils.
  • polar oil here means any lipophilic compound having, at 25°C, a solubility parameter 8d characteristic of dispersive interactions of greater than 16 and a solubility parameter 8 P characteristic of polar interactions strictly greater than 0.
  • solubility parameters 8d and 8 P are defined according to the Hansen classification.
  • 3D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts
  • the parameters 8 P , 8h, 8d and 8 a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • polar oil be selected from the group consisting of plant or animal oils, such as triglycerides, ester oils, ether oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of ester oils, ether oils and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably from ester oils.
  • the polar oil may be chosen especially from the following oils: hydrocarbon-based polar oils such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from Cis to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g/mol), com oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil,
  • Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols and of dimer diacids, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate; fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol; higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil here means a polar oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the (b) oil has a logP value of 7.0 or less, more preferably 6.5 or less, and even more preferably 6.0 or less. It may be preferable that the (b) oil has a logP value of 1.0 or more, more preferably 1.5 or more, and even more preferably 2.0 or more. Thus, it may be preferable that the (b) oil has a logP value of from 1.0 to 7.0, more preferably from 1.5 to 6.5, and even more preferably from 2.0 to 6.0.
  • a logP value is a value for the base-ten logarithm of the apparent octan-l-ol/water partition coefficient.
  • the logP values are known and are determined by a standard test which determines the concentration of the (b) oil in octan-l-ol and water.
  • the logP may be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom/Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value may also be calculated using numerous commercially available software packages, which determine the logP as a function of the structure of a molecule. By way of example, mention may be made of the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Agency.
  • the values may especially be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris software V4.67; they may also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also an Internet site which provides estimated values (address: http://esc.syrres.com/interkow/kowdemo.htm).
  • the (b) oil may have at least two moieties selected from the group consisting of an amide bond, an ester bond, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amide bond here means -CONR- (R denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkyl group, preferably a methyl group) and the ester bond here means -COO-.
  • the (b) oil may have two or more amide bonds, two or more ester bonds or a mixture of at least one amide bond and at least one ester bond.
  • the (b) oil may have at least two moieties selected from the group consisting of an ether bond, an ester bond, and mixtures thereof.
  • the ether bond here means -O- and the ester bond here means -COO-.
  • the (b) oil may have two or more ether bonds, two or more ester bonds or a mixture of at least one ether bond and at least one ester bond.
  • the (b) oil be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, octyldodecanol and a mixture thereof.
  • non-polar oil mention may be made of squalane.
  • the (b) oil may be selected form triglycerides.
  • Triglyceride is an ester derived from glycerol and three fatty acids, and may be referred to as triacylglycerol.
  • the triglyceride for the (b) oil have at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue.
  • the triglyceride for the (b) oil be an ester derived from glycerol and at least one unsaturated fatty acid.
  • the triglyceride for the (b) oil may be (i) an ester derived from glycerol and one unsaturated fatty acid and two saturated fatty acids, (ii) an ester derived from glycerol and two unsaturated fatty acids and one saturated fatty acid, or (iii) an ester derived from three unsaturated fatty acids. If two or more unsaturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different. If two saturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different.
  • unsaturated fatty acid means a fatty acid comprising at least one carbon-carbon double or triple bond. They are more particularly fatty acids with long chains, i.e., being able to have 8-32 carbon atoms, preferably 12-26 carbon atoms, and more preferably 14-22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acids can be monounsaturated such as petroselenic acid (Cl 2), palmitoleic acid (Cl 6) and oleic acid (Cl 8), or can be polyunsaturated, i.e., presenting at least two carboncarbon double bonds, such as linoleic acid (Cl 8) and linolenic acid (Cl 8).
  • the triglyceride for the (b) oil have at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue.
  • the triglyceride for the (b) oil be an ester derived from glycerol and at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid.
  • the polyunsaturated fatty acid may be selected from co-3, a>-6, and co-9 fatty acids, characterized by the closest unsaturation position to the terminal methyl group.
  • the polyunsaturated fatty acid comprising between 18 and 22 carbon atoms, notably those selected from co-3 and co-6 fatty acids, may be more preferable.
  • polyunsaturated fatty acids of the co-3 series mention may be made of a-linolenic acid (18:3, co-3), stearidonic acid (18:4, co-3), 5,8,11,14, 17-eicosapentaenoic acid or EPA (20:5, co-3), and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid or DHA (22:6, co-3), docosapentaenoic acid (22,5, co-3), and n-butyl-5,11,14-eicosatrienonic acid.
  • polyunsaturated fatty acids of the co-6 series mention may be made of linolenic acid with 18 carbon atoms and two unsaturations (18:2, co-6), y-linolenic acid with 18 carbon atoms and three unsaturations (18:3, co-6), dihomogamalinolenic acid with 20 carbon atoms and 3 unsaturations (20:3, co-6), arachidonic acid or 5,8,11,14 eicosatetraenoic acid (20:4, co- 6), and docosatetraenoic acid (22:4, co-6).
  • co-9 fatty acid mention may be made of mead acid (20:3, co-9).
  • the polyunsaturated fatty acid may be selected form a-linolenic acid, y-linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the polyunsaturated fatty acid among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglyceride for the (b) oil may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the fatty acids.
  • the weight ratio of the amount of polyunsaturated fatty acid(s)/the amount of monounsaturated fatty acid(s) among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglyceride for the (b) oil may be more than 1.0, preferably more than 1.5, and more preferably more than 2.0.
  • the (b) oil may be selected from plant oils.
  • the (b) oil may be selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed oil, rice oil, com oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, linseed oil, and a mixture thereof.
  • the (b) oil be selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, com oil, cotton seed oil, grape seed oil, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) oil(s) can form a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the (b) oil can form dispersed fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide.
  • a single type of polysaccharide may be used, but two or more different types of polysaccharide may be used in combination.
  • the (c) polysaccharide be selected from polysaccharides derived from plants. In other words, it is preferable that the (c) polysaccharide be of plant origin.
  • the (c) polysaccharide not be selected from cellulose and derivatives thereof.
  • the term "polysaccharides derived from plants” especially means polysaccharides obtained from the plant kingdom (plants or algae), as opposed to polysaccharides obtained via biotechnology, as is the case, for example, for xanthan gum, which is produced especially by fermentation of a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris.
  • algal extracts such as alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof.
  • carrageenans examples include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Degussa; an alginate that may be mentioned is the sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP; b) gums, such as guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; examples that may be mentioned include the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP 105® by the company Rhodia; the mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) sold by the company GfN; c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, com or rice, from legumes, for instance blonde pea, from tubers, for instance potato or cassava, and tapioca starches; dextrins, such as com de
  • the (c) polysaccharide be chosen from algal extracts.
  • the algal extracts may be chosen from alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof, may be used.
  • the amount of the (c) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound.
  • a single type of ascorbic acid compound may be used, but two or more different types of ascorbic acid compounds may be used in combination.
  • corbic acid compound here encompasses ascorbic acid or vitamin C, and derivatives thereof.
  • Ascorbic acid is generally but not necessarily in L form if it is extracted from natural products.
  • the derivative of ascorbic acid may be a salt of ascorbic acid, such as sodium ascorbate, potassium ascorbate, and calcium ascorbate.
  • an ascorbic acid derivative in the form of a saccharide ester of ascorbic acid or a metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.
  • saccharide esters of ascorbic acid that may be used in the present invention are especially glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-a-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-D galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid.
  • the latter compounds and processes for preparing them are described in particular in documents EP-A-487 404, EP-A-425 066 and J-05 213 736.
  • the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid may be chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline-earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.
  • the derivatives of ascorbic acid be selected from salts of ascorbic acid or phosphorylated ascorbic acid, such as, especially, sodium ascorbate, sodium or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, acetic ester of ascorbic acid, or sugar esters of ascorbic acid, including saccharide esters and especially such as glycosyl ascorbic acid.
  • stabilization of ascorbic acid towards oxidation may be obtained by combining it with maleic anhydride derivatives, as described in patent application EP 1 374 852, or with imidazole polymers, as described in patent application FR 2 832 630.
  • the (d) ascorbic acid compound is not lipophilic or oil-soluble but hydrophilic or water- soluble.
  • the (d) ascorbic acid compound it is preferable for the (d) ascorbic acid compound not to be a fatty acid ester of ascorbic acid such as ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate and ascorbyl stearate.
  • the amount of the (d) ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (e) water.
  • the (e) water can form an aqueous phase, preferably a continuous aqueous phase, of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent.
  • a single type of lipophilic antioxidant agent may be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic antioxidant agent may be used in combination.
  • antioxidant agents are compounds or substances that can scavenge the various radical forms which may be present in the skin; preferably, they simultaneously scavenge all the various radical forms present.
  • the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent is different from the (a) retinoid.
  • the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent means that the partition coefficient of the antioxidant agent between n-butanol and water is >1, more preferably >10 and even more preferably >100.
  • the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents mention may be made of, phenolic antioxidants which have a hindered phenol structure or a semi-hindered phenol structure within the molecule.
  • 3,5-bis(l,l-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxybenzenepropanoic acid) which has the INCI name of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, 2,6- di-tert-butyl-4-ethylphenol, mono- or di- or tri-(a-methylbenzyl)phenol, 2,2’-methylenebis(4- ethyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,2’ -methyl enebis(4-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4’- butylidenebis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4’-thiobis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,5-di- tert-butylhydroquinone, 2,5-di-tert-amy
  • (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents mention may also be made of: BHA (butylated hydroxyl anisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxyl toluene), vitamin E (or tocopherols and tocotrienol) and derivatives thereof, such as the phosphate derivative, for instance TPNA® sold by the company Showa Denko, coenzyme Q10 (or ubiquinone), idebenone, certain carotenoids such as lutein, astaxanthin, beta-carotene, and phenolic acids and derivatives (e. g., chlorogenic acid).
  • BHA butylated hydroxyl anisole
  • BHT butylated hydroxyl toluene
  • vitamin E or tocopherols and tocotrienol
  • derivatives thereof such as the phosphate derivative, for instance TPNA® sold by the company Showa Denko
  • coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone
  • idebenone certain carotenoids such as lutein
  • the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents that may also be mentioned include dithiolanes, for instance asparagusic acid, or derivatives thereof, for instance siliceous dithiolane derivatives, especially such as those described in patent application FR 2 908 769.
  • the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents include: glutathione and derivatives thereof (GSH and/or GSHOEt), such as glutathione alkyl esters (such as those described in patent applications FR 2 704 754 and FR 2 908 769); cysteine and derivatives thereof, such as N-acetylcysteine or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid.
  • GSH and/or GSHOEt glutathione and derivatives thereof
  • glutathione alkyl esters such as those described in patent applications FR 2 704 754 and FR 2 908 769
  • cysteine and derivatives thereof such as N-acetylcysteine or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid.
  • cysteine derivatives described in patent applications FR 2 877 004 and FR 2 854 160; certain enzymes for defending against oxidative stress, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase (SOD), lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases; benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates (as described especially in patent application EP 0 511 118); caffeic acid and derivatives thereof, gamma-oryzanol; melatonin, sulforaphane and extracts containing it (excluding cress); the diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, as described especially in patent applications WO 94/11338, FR 2 698 095, FR 2 737 205 or EP 0 755 925; deferoxamine (or des), des
  • the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents that may also be used are chaicones, more particularly phloretin or neohesperidin, the diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'- diacetic acid or an extract of pinaster bark such as PYCNOGENOL®.
  • (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents mention may also be made of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, tocopherol, resveratrol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyl toluene, butylated hydroxyl anisole, ascorbyl palmitate, tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent be biodegradable.
  • BHT which is not biodegradable, is not preferable as the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent.
  • BHT which is not biodegradable
  • the composition according to the present invention is free from BHT.
  • composition according to the present invention may contain a limited amount of BHT.
  • amount of BHT be limited such that it is less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is most preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise no BHT.
  • the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent be selected from tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one compound which is capable of providing a solution thereof with a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, and more preferably 2% or less, for light with a wavelength of from 290 to 420 nm, along a light path length of 10 mm, wherein the concentration of the (g) compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution.
  • a single type of such a compound or a combination of different types of such compounds may be used.
  • the (g) compound can provide a low light transmittance. Therefore, the (g) compound may be referred to as a light shielding compound. It is more preferable that the (g) compound be capable of providing a solution with a zero (0) transmittance for light with a wavelength of from 290 to 420 nm along a light path length of 10 mm, wherein the concentration of the (g) compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution.
  • the (g) compound be capable of providing a solution with a zero (0) transmittance for light with a wavelength of from 290 to 420 nm along a light path length of 10 mm, wherein the concentration of the (g) compound in the solution is more than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution.
  • the solvent for the solution is not limited as long as the (g) compound is solubilized in the solvent, and the solvent does not have any absorbance for light with a wavelength of from 290 to 420 nm.
  • the solvent water and hydrophilic solvents such as ethanol may be used.
  • the transmittance may be measured by a spectrophotometer, e.g., a UV-Visible/NIR spectrophotometer V-750 by JASCO Corp.
  • a spectrophotometer e.g., a UV-Visible/NIR spectrophotometer V-750 by JASCO Corp.
  • the (g) compound can provide a solution with a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, more preferably 2% or less, and even more preferably zero (0)% for any light with a wavelength of from 290 to 420 nm along a light path length of 10 mm.
  • the solution of the (g) compound can reduce or shield any light whose wavelength is from 290 nm to 420 nm.
  • the (g) compound can reduce or shield the light with the above specific wavelength which could reach the (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention to cause the decomposition of the (a) retinoid. Therefore, the (g) compound can contribute to enhance the photo-stability of the (a) retinoid, and can reduce the decomposition of the (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the (g) compound may be selected from the group consisting of polyphenols.
  • polyphenol is understood to mean a compound containing a plurality of phenolic hydroxyl groups.
  • the phenolic hydroxyl group means a hydroxyl group bonded to an aromatic ring such as a benzene ring and a naphthalene ring.
  • the phenolic hydroxyl group may be optionally etherified or esterified.
  • the polyphenol may be chosen from those which have an antioxidizing activity.
  • the polyphenol may be chosen, for example, from flavonoids.
  • Preferred flavonoids may correspond to general formula (I): in which
  • A", B", C" and D independently of one another, represent H, -OH, -R' or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH;
  • E" represents H, -OH or -OX', where X' represents:
  • F", G" and J represent, independently of one another, H, -OH or -OCH3;
  • Xi represents -CH2-, -CO- or -CHOH-, or general formula (II): in which
  • A', C and D' independently of one another, represent H, -OH, -OCH3, -R' or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH;
  • E' represents H, -OH or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH; and B', F', G' and J', independently of one another, represent H, OH, -OCH3, -OCH2-CH2-OH, or - OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH.
  • Rutinose, glucose, apiose, rhamnose, robinose, neohesperidose, or a combination thereof, may be mentioned among the sugars R'OH.
  • the compounds of formulae (I) and (II) are known. They can be obtained especially according to the processes described in "The Flavonoids", Harbome J. B., Mabry T. J., Helga Mabry, 1975, pages 1 to 45.
  • the flavonoids may be selected from flavones, flavonols, isoflavones, flavanols, flavanones, anthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof.
  • flavonoids which can be used for the present invention, mention may be made of taxifolin, catechin, epicatechin, eriodictyol, naringenin, rutin, glucosylrutin, troxerutin, chrysin, tangeretin, luteolin, epigallocatechin and epigallocatechin gallate, quercetin, isoquercetin, fisetin, kaempferol, galangin, gallocatechin and epicatechin gallate.
  • Certain polyphenols which can be used are present in plants from which they can be extracted in a known way. It is possible to use extracts from tea leaves (Camellia sinensis or Camellia japonica). Mention will in particular be made of the green tea extracts sold under the name SUNPHENON® by the Company Taiyo, which especially contain flavonoids.
  • polyphenol it is possible to use a mixture of glucosylrutin and rutin sold under the name ALPHA GLUCOSYL RUTIN by the company QINGDAO TAITONG PHARMACEUTICAL.
  • Polyphenol may also be chosen from (2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)alkylenecarboxylic acids of formula (III) and their derivatives (especially esters and amides): in which
  • Ri represents -O-Alk, OH or -N(r')(r"), wherein Aik denotes a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy groups, or a C2-C20 alkenyl, r' and r" independently represent H, C1-C20 alkyl, C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C3-C6 polyhydroxyalkyl, or alternatively r' and r" form, together with a nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle, r is a number, including zero, such that the -(CH2)r-CORi chain contains at most 21 carbon atoms,
  • R2" and R3" independently represent H or a C1-C4 alkyl, it additionally being possible for R2" to represent a C1-C4 alkoxy.
  • the compounds of formula (III) are known or can be prepared according to known methods, for example analogous to those described in patents FR-2,400,358 and FR-2,400,359.
  • Polyphenol may also be chosen from esters or amides of caffeic acid.
  • esters of caffeic acid mention may especially be made of the compounds of formula (IV): in which
  • Z represents a Ci-Cg alkyl, for example methyl, or the residue of a phytol.
  • Z' represents a Ci-C «, in particular Ce-Cs, alkyl.
  • the amount of the (g) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1%. by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (g) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (g) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one chelating agent.
  • a single type of chelating agent may be used, but two or more different types of chelating agents may be used in combination.
  • aminocarboxylic acids such as the compounds having the following INCI name: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine- N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho- hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine- N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,
  • chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid such as the compounds having the following INCI name: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), [0263]ethane- 2-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane- 1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), and hydroxyethane- 1,1- diphosphonic acid (HEDP), and
  • DTPMP diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid)
  • E1HTP ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid
  • EHDP ethane- 2-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid
  • EHDP ethane- 1,1,2-triphosphonic
  • chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid such as the compounds having the following INCI name: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid, salts and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • STP sodium tripolyphosphate
  • tetrasodium diphosphate tetrasodium diphosphate
  • hexametaphosphoric acid sodium metaphosphate
  • phytic acid sodium metaphosphate
  • salts and derivatives thereof salts and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (h) chelating agent be biodegradable.
  • EDTA which is not biodegradable, is not preferable as the (h) chelating agent.
  • the composition according to the present invention is free from EDTA.
  • composition according to the present invention may contain a limited amount of EDTA.
  • amount of EDTA be limited such that it is less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is most preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise no EDTA.
  • the (h) chelating agent be risodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.
  • the amount of the (h) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (h) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (h) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol.
  • a single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.
  • polyol here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof.
  • the derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
  • the polyol may be a C2-C 12 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
  • the polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol.
  • the polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
  • the polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.
  • the polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, caprylylglycol, 1,3- propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethyleneglycol (5 to 50 ethyleneoxide groups), and sugars such as sorbitol.
  • the amount of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, such as from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may contain one or more monoalcohols which are in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25°C), such as for example linear or branched monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol, and hexanol.
  • monoalcohols which are in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25°C), such as for example linear or branched monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol, and hexanol.
  • the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 60 by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may also include various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants, hydrophilic antioxidants, coloring agents, thickeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, copreservatives, and mixtures thereof, except for the ingredients as explained above.
  • adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants, hydrophilic antioxidants, coloring agents, thickeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, copreservatives, and mixtures thereof, except for the ingredients as explained
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
  • the method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of capsules and an aqueous phase wherein the capsules are dispersed in the aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and (e) water.
  • the capsule comprises at least one core and at least one shell surrounding the core. It is preferable that the capsule comprises one core and at least one shell surrounding the core.
  • the shell comprise at least one layer or film.
  • the number of the layer or film is not limited, but it may be preferable that the shell comprises one layer or film.
  • the core comprises (a) at least one retinoid, and (b) at least one oil. It is preferable that the core further comprises (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent.
  • the shell comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide
  • the (c) polysaccharide can form a capsule which can encapsulate (a) at least one retinoid together with (b) at least one oil, preferably together with (b) at least one oil and (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent.
  • the encapsulation of (a) at least one retinoid can prevent or reduce the contact of (a) at least one retinoid and (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and reduce the change in color (in particular, brightness) of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the capsule can enhance the stability of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the capsule of (c) at least one polysaccharide including (a) at least one retinoid and (b) at least one oil can be prepared by surrounding or coating a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (b) at least one oil by (c) at least one polysaccharide. It is preferable that a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid, (b) at least one oil, and (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent be surrounded or coated by (c) at least one polysaccharide.
  • At least one retinoid be solubilized into (b) at least one oil, and then the (b) at least one oil be surrounded or coated by (c) at least one polysaccharide.
  • the (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent may also be solubilized into (b) at least one oil.
  • the step of preparing or forming a capsule can be performed by any conventional process.
  • the excluded (i) mixture can form a core, while the (ii) (c) at least one polysaccharide can form a shell.
  • the coextruded core/shell structure can transform into a core/shell particle which corresponds to the capsule.
  • the above (i) mixture may also include (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent explained below.
  • the form of the capsule is not limited.
  • the capsule may be in the form of a sphere.
  • the size of the capsule is not limited. It is possible that the size or the diameter of the capsule may be from 0.1 to 10 mm, preferably from 0.5 to 5 mm, and more preferably from 1 to 3 mm.
  • the capsule can be dispersed and suspended in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the capsule can provide the composition according to the present invention with unique aspects.
  • the capsule includes not only the (a) retinoid but also the (b) oil, and the capsules are dispersed in an aqueous phase including the (d) ascorbic acid compound and (e) water. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an O/W type.
  • the composition according to the present invention be in the form of O/W type. It is more preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W emulsion or an O/W dispersion which comprises fatty phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.
  • the dispersed fatty phases can be oil droplets in the aqueous phase.
  • the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W gel emulsion or an O/W gel dispersion.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickener for gelling the aqueous phase.
  • the O/W architecture or structure which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore the composition according to the present invention with the O/W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant feeling during use because of the feeling of immediate freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
  • composition according to the present invention may be transparent or translucent, preferably a transparent.
  • the transparency may be measured by measuring the turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (marketed by HACH) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm height) and a tungsten filament lamp which can emit visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably from 400 to 500 nm).
  • the measurement can be performed on the undiluted composition.
  • the blank may be determined with distilled water.
  • the composition according to the present invention may preferably have a turbidity of less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, more preferably less than 100 NTU, and even more preferably less than 50 NTU.
  • composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin substance such as skin.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratin substance such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, by being applied to the keratin substance.
  • a non-therapeutic process such as a cosmetic process
  • a keratin substance such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.
  • composition according to the present invention may be used as, for example, an antiaging, anti-wrinkling, or turnover promoting product for a keratinous substance such as skin.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be used as an antiwrinkling skin cosmetic product.
  • composition according to the present invention may also be used as, for example, a whitening, an anti-oxidant, or collagen synthesis promoting product for a keratinous substance such as skin.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be used as a whitening or an anti-oxidant (e.g., for reducing skin damage) cosmetic product.
  • Another aspect of the present invention may relate to a use of:
  • a plurality of capsules each of which comprises at least one core, and at least one shell surrounding the core, wherein the core comprises (a) at least one retinoid, and (b) at least one oil, and the shell comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide; in a composition comprising
  • an aqueous phase comprising (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and (e) water, wherein the (1) capsules are dispersed in the (2) aqueous phase for stabilizing the composition, or for reducing the change in color (in particular, brightness) of the composition.
  • Another aspect of the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a stable composition comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, or reducing the change in color (in particular, brightness) of a composition comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, comprising the steps of:
  • the step (i) of forming the capsules may be performed by co-extruding a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (b) at least one oil, with (c) at least one polysaccharide.
  • a mixture of (a) at least one retinoid, (b) at least one oil, and (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent be encapsulated by (c) at least one polysaccharide.
  • the core further comprises (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent.
  • compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 in the form of encapsulated O/W gel type emulsions were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1.
  • Phase A (1) mixing the ingredients of Phase A except retinol and heat at 75-80 °C if it includes solid compound to form a uniform mixture, then cool to room temperature and introduce retinol to obtain a uniform mixture of Phase A;
  • Phase B (a) mixing the ingredients of Phase B except ascorbic acid and heart at 75-80 °C to form a uniform mixture, then cooled to room temperature and introduce ascorbic acid to obtain a uniform mixture of Phase B;
  • each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 was divided into two groups.
  • One group was homogenized by a homogenizer, 15,000 prm for 1 minute to break the capsules therein to prepare the composition according to Comparative Example 1 or 2.
  • the other group was not subjected to the homogenizer to use as the composition according to Example 1 or 2.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 were charged into in a transparent vessel, and stored at 55 °C for 2 weeks.
  • the color (L*a*b* values based on CIE1976) of each composition after the storage was measured by using Konica Minolta CM-3600A.
  • Example 1 For Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, the above measurement was performed three times, and the average value and the standard deviation value were calculated for each of L*, a* and b*. The results are shown in Table 1. Then, Student’s t-test was performed. There was a significant difference (p ⁇ 0.05).
  • Example 2 For Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, the above measurement was performed three samples, and the average value and the standard deviation value were calculated for each of L*, a* and b*. The results are shown in Table 1. Then, Student’s t-test was performed. There was a significant difference (p ⁇ 0.05).
  • Example 1 The comparison between Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 demonstrates that the limitation of the contact between retinol and ascorbic acid by encapsulating retinol contributed to improve color stability.
  • Example 2 The comparison between Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 also demonstrates that the limitation of the contact between retinol and ascorbic acid by encapsulating retinol contributed to improve color stability.

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Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à une composition comprenant : (1) une pluralité de capsules comprenant chacune au moins un noyau et au moins une enveloppe entourant le noyau, le noyau comprenant (a) au moins un rétinoïde, (b) au moins une huile et la coque comprenant (c) au moins un polysaccharide; et (2) une phase aqueuse comprenant (d) au moins un composé d'acide ascorbique et (e) de l'eau, les (1) capsules étant dispersées dans la (2) phase aqueuse. La composition selon la présente invention est stable et le changement de couleur (en particulier, en luminosité) de la composition au fil du temps peut être réduit.
EP22844304.0A 2021-12-20 2022-12-09 Composition stable comprenant un rétinoïde et un composé d'acide ascorbique Pending EP4452190A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2021205993A JP2023091313A (ja) 2021-12-20 2021-12-20 レチノイド及びアスコルビン酸化合物を含む、安定な組成物
FR2200438A FR3131837B1 (fr) 2022-01-19 2022-01-19 Composition stable comprenant un rétinoïde et un composé acide ascorbique
PCT/JP2022/046301 WO2023120390A1 (fr) 2021-12-20 2022-12-09 Composition stable comprenant un rétinoïde et un composé d'acide ascorbique

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