EP4339342A1 - Textile piece, method for producing a textile piece and garment comprising such a textile piece and method for producing same - Google Patents

Abstract

A textile piece (1) comprises intertwined threads (2). The plurality of threads (2) comprises at least 10% first threads (2a). Each first wire (2a) has a core (4) of first material and a sheath (5) of second material different from the first material. The first material is para-aramid, carbon fiber or glass fiber. The sheath (5) forms a watertight barrier as well as a barrier blocking ultraviolet radiation around the core (4). The sheath (5) of each first wire (2a) is spaced from the sheath (5) of the adjacent wires (2) by an empty zone or by a layer of a material more flexible than the second material.

Description

Technical area

The invention relates to a textile part, a garment comprising a textile part, as well as a method of manufacturing a textile part.

State of the art

In many trades, it is common to wear clothing that must provide significant protection against external attacks. It is possible to cite firefighters who wear a jacket intended to protect them during their interventions against fire. Historically, the jacket featured an outer layer of leather. Leather was relatively easy to maintain because it was enough to wash it with water and then apply a coat of shoe polish. However, this jacket was heavy and provided limited comfort during the summer.

The leather jacket has been replaced by a jacket made from technical fibers such as meta-aramid or para-aramid fibers. The change in material allowed a notable reduction in the mass of the jacket. However, it has become apparent that this new jacket configuration is much more difficult to maintain and exhibits accelerated aging. In particular, a notable decrease in performance was observed as the washing operations progressed. Para-aramid fibers deteriorate significantly with humidity, which reduces the performance of the jacket. It appeared that para-aramid fibers are poorly resistant to UV radiation, which means that they need to be protected when working outdoors. It has also been found that para-aramid fibers degrade rapidly when subjected to abrasion and humidity.

Furthermore, in order to preserve the health of personnel, it is recommended to wash protective equipment more and more often, in order to eliminate any contaminants that may have deposited on the jacket during an intervention. The incentive to wash the jacket very regularly will degrade the meta-aramid fibers or para-aramid, which will result in an accelerated deterioration in the performance of protective equipment.

Presentation of the invention

An object of the invention consists of providing a textile part whose mechanical performance is better preserved over time and preferably following a multitude of washes with water.

• la pluralité de fils comporte au moins 10% de premiers fils,
• chaque premier fil possède une âme en premier matériau et une gaine en deuxième matériau différent du premier matériau ;
• le premier matériau est un para-aramide, une fibre de carbone ou une fibre de verre ;
• la gaine forme une barrière d'étanchéité à l'eau ainsi qu'une barrière bloquant le rayonnement ultraviolet autour de l'âme, le deuxième matériau étant réalisé dans un matériau différent du premier matériau ;

dans laquelle la gaine de chaque premier fil est espacée des fils adjacents par une zone vide ou par une couche d'un matériau plus flexible que le deuxième matériau.We tend to resolve these drawbacks by means of a textile part according to the appended claims and more preferably by means of a textile part comprising a plurality of interwoven threads, in which:

• the plurality of threads comprises at least 10% of first threads,
• each first wire has a core made of a first material and a sheath of a second material different from the first material;
• the first material is para-aramid, carbon fiber or glass fiber;
• the sheath forms a watertight barrier as well as a barrier blocking ultraviolet radiation around the core, the second material being made of a material different from the first material;

in which the sheath of each first wire is spaced from adjacent wires by an empty zone or by a layer of a material more flexible than the second material.

According to one aspect of the invention, the textile part is formed by 100% first threads.

Preferably, the textile part comprises at least one first additional yarn chosen from one or more meta-aramid yarns, one or more ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene yarns, one or more poly(p-phenylene-2, 6-benzobisoxazole), one or more viscose yarns, one or more modacrylic yarns, one or more polyamide yarns, one or more polyester yarns, one or more PVA polyvinyl alcohol yarns, one or more polyvinyl alcohol yarns polybenzimidazole PBI, the at least one additional wire possibly comprising a flame retardant additive.

Advantageously, the first threads and the at least one additional first thread represent the majority of the threads forming the textile part.

In a particular embodiment, a ratio between an average title of the first threads and an average title of the additional threads (additional Tfiis/T _{first threads} ) is between 0.5 and 10, the average title being an average title in number.

According to another aspect, the second material is chosen from polyurethane-ether, polyurethane-ester, polyurethane polyacrylate, silicone, a polyolefin, a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) or a mixture of the latter optionally added with fillers.

Preferably, the core of each first thread is formed by one or a plurality of fibers which each extend continuously from one end to the other of the textile piece.

Preferably, the sheath of each first wire is spaced from the adjacent wires by an empty zone devoid of a coating layer continuously connecting the first wires so as to define an air-permeable textile piece.

In an advantageous configuration, the textile part is a fabric having a weaving density of between 10 and 40 threads/cm to form a waterproof and breathable textile part.

Preferably, the textile piece is a fabric defining a first portion with a first surface content of first threads and a second portion with a second surface content of first threads greater than the first surface content and in which at least one first thread is extends continuously through the first portion and the second portion.

The invention also relates to a garment whose durability over time is improved.

According to one aspect of the invention, the garment comprises a textile piece according to any of the preceding configurations.

Advantageously, the clothing is protective clothing against fire.

The invention also relates to a manufacturing process which makes it possible to simply manufacture a textile part which resists better over time.

• fournir au moins un premier fil possédant une âme en premier matériau et une gaine en deuxième matériau différent du premier matériau, le premier matériau est un para-aramide, une fibre de carbone ou une fibre de verre, la gaine formant une barrière d'étanchéité à l'eau ainsi qu'une barrière bloquant le rayonnement ultraviolet autour de l'âme ;
• tisser, tricoter ou tresser le au moins premier fil pour former la pièce textile comportant au moins 10% de premiers fils, la gaine de chaque premier fil étant espacée des fils adjacents par une zone vide ou par une couche d'un matériau plus flexible que le deuxième matériau.

We tend to achieve this result by means of a process for manufacturing a textile part according to the appended claims and advantageously by a manufacturing process comprising the following steps:

• providing at least a first wire having a core of first material and a sheath of second material different from the first material, the first material is a para-aramid, a carbon fiber or a glass fiber, the sheath forming a sealing barrier to water as well as a barrier blocking ultraviolet radiation around the core;
• weave, knit or braid the at least first thread to form the textile piece comprising at least 10% first threads, the sheath of each first thread being spaced from the adjacent threads by an empty zone or by a layer of a material more flexible than the second material.

Description of the designs

• : la figure 1 illustre schématiquement une vue en coupe d'une pièce textile formée par plusieurs premiers fils ;
• la figure 2 illustre schématiquement une vue de dessus d'une pièce textile obtenue par tissage ;
• la figure 3 illustre schématiquement une vue de dessus d'une pièce textile obtenue par tricotage ;
• la figure 4 illustre schématiquement une vue en perspective d'une pièce textile obtenue par tressage ;
• la figure 5 illustre schématiquement une vue de dessus d'un vêtement possédant des zones ayant des teneurs différentes en premiers fils.

Other advantages and characteristics will emerge more clearly from the following description of particular embodiments and implementation of the invention given by way of non-limiting examples and represented in the appended drawings, in which:

• : there figure 1 schematically illustrates a sectional view of a textile piece formed by several first threads;
• there figure 2 schematically illustrates a top view of a textile piece obtained by weaving;
• there Figure 3 schematically illustrates a top view of a textile piece obtained by knitting;
• there figure 4 schematically illustrates a perspective view of a textile piece obtained by braiding;
• there figure 5 schematically illustrates a top view of a garment having zones having different contents of first threads.

detailed description

As illustrated in figures 1 to 5 , a textile piece 1 is formed by a plurality of intertwined threads 2. The textile part 1 can be a fabric, that is to say obtained by weaving. The textile piece 1 can be a knit, that is to say obtained by knitting. The textile part 1 can be a non-woven fabric, for example obtained by braiding or by any other suitable technique. The plurality of wires 2 comprises first wires 2a and possibly additional wires 2b. The first wires 2a provide the desired mechanical and preferably thermomechanical performances. By thermomechanical is meant the provision of mechanical performance at high temperatures, for example greater than 50°C, preferably greater than 100°C and more preferably greater than 150°C.

The textile piece 1 can form all or part of a garment 3 as illustrated in figure 5 . Clothing 3 is preferably individual protective equipment and preferably clothing which meets standard EN11612 and/or standard EN469. Clothing 3 is advantageously a protective outfit against flames, that is to say a “fire outfit”, for example one for firefighter intervention to extinguish a fire. The garment can be a jacket or pants.

In a particular embodiment, the textile part 1 is solely formed by first threads 2a. In another embodiment, the textile part 1 is formed by first threads 2a and at least one additional thread 2b, preferably several additional threads 2b identical or different from each other.

Each first wire 2a has a core 4 of first material and a sheath 5 of second material different from the first material. The first material is para-aramid, carbon fiber or glass fiber. Preferably, the first material is a para-aramid. The second material forms the sheath 5, that is to say a protective layer around the core 4. The sheath 5 is impermeable to water so as to reduce or even prevent water from coming into contact with the core 4 during multiple washings of the textile piece. The sheath 5 also forms a barrier to ultraviolet radiation so as to reduce the aging of the core 4 made of first material and in particular para-aramid. In one embodiment, the sheath 5 blocks 100% of the UV radiation emitted, for example for radiation equal to 250mW/m ² , preferably equal to 350mW/m ² . In an alternative embodiment, the sheath 5 blocks at least 80% of the UV radiation emitted.

The core 4 made of first material provides the mechanical performance of the first wire 2a, for example its resistance to breaking in the longitudinal direction of the first wire 2a, that is to say in the direction of greatest dimension. Advantageously, the first material has the highest value of resistance to rupture in the longitudinal direction above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and advantageously above 150°C relative to the sheath and preferably in relation to the other materials forming the textile part.

The core 4 also provides the characteristics relating to heat resistance according to the ISO17493 standard. It is advantageous for the core 4 to be formed in the material which has the highest heat resistance value of the textile part. It is advantageous to choose a core 4 made of first material whose title is between 110dTex and 8250dTex and in particular para-aramid. The textile part 1 can be formed by different first threads 2a whose title is included in the previous range. The choice of title is made according to the needs to be achieved.

The interweaving of the first wires 2a with other wires 2b and preferably the interweaving of the first wires 2a between them makes it possible to define the resistance to piercing of the textile part 1 or the resistance to punching. The type of interlacing as well as the tension in the first thread 2a during the interlacing step makes it possible to define the resistance to piercing of the textile part 1.

The sheath 5 forms a shell around the core 4 so as to reduce the aging of the core 4. The shell is a flexible shell to maintain the flexible character of the textile. Preferably, for each first wire 2a, the sheath 5 forms a specific flexible shell around the core 4. The sheath 5 of a first wire 2a never forms the sheath 5 of a first adjacent wire. Two adjacent sheaths 5 are distinct. The core 4 of a first wire 2a is protected independently of the core of the adjacent first wire 2a by the sheath 5. The adjacent wires are intertwined with each other and define empty zones.

This configuration is different from a coating layer in the material of the sheath 5 and which continuously connects several adjacent wires. With a textile devoid of a coating layer, the sheath 5 of each first thread 2a is spaced from the sheath of the adjacent threads (first threads 2a or other threads 2b) by an empty zone. The use of a textile whose sheath 5 of each first yarn 2a is spaced from the sheath of the yarns (first yarns 2a and second yarns 2b) adjacent by an empty zone is particularly advantageous because it makes it possible to form a material with high breathability. Such a configuration makes it possible to form a fabric whose air permeability is greater than 300L/m ² /s at 200Pa, or even 700L/m ² /s at 200Pa. The air permeability measurement is carried out in accordance with the ISO9237 standard. It is particularly advantageous to form a textile part 1 whose air permeability is between 300L/m ² /s and 1200L/m ² /s at 200Pa.

Alternatively, a thin coating layer may be possible in addition to the sheath 5. In this case, the coating layer is a layer of a more flexible material than the second material forming the sheath 5. The layer is more flexible than the second material so as not to degrade the flexibility of the textile. By using a continuous coating layer, a watertight and airtight zone is formed. Water permeability is preferably measured according to the ISO 9237 standard and the air permeability is preferably measured according to the EN20811 standard.

It is more advantageous to have a textile whose first threads 2a are each covered by a sheath 5 distinct from each adjacent thread (in particular the first threads 2a), for an identical or substantially identical thickness of the same second material. This configuration is advantageous compared to a coating layer common to several threads having a core of first material and in particular of para-aramid, the coating layer having a thickness identical to the sheath and being made of this same material. The configuration is advantageous because it has better abrasion resistance. The sheath 5 is more resistant to abrasion, it provides the protective characteristics of the core 4 for longer for washing operations and against attacks from ultraviolet radiation. Replacing the coating layer with the sheath 5 makes it possible to increase the lifespan of the cores 4 made of first material. The use of a sheath 5 independently protecting each core 4 and in a configuration devoid of a coating layer makes it possible to form, in addition, a fabric with better breathability. Breathability can be represented by the amount of air that can pass through a given surface of textile per unit of time. The use of a textile comprising the first yarns 2a makes it possible to form a fabric having a breathability greater than or equal to 200L/m ² /s at 200Pa.

The sheath 5 has a breaking strength along the longitudinal axis which is lower than the breaking strength of the core 4. It is advantageous for the sheath 5 to have an elastic limit at breaking which is greater than that of the core 4, preferably at least 50% higher. Preferably, the elastic limit at rupture of the sheath 5 is 500 times greater than that of the core 4. Preferably, the sheath 5 is made of a material which is devoid of glass transition temperature in a range between -20°C and 210°C in order to avoid a significant modification of the mechanical behavior when the temperature changes in this range. It is advantageous for the material of the sheath 5 to be between 3 and 10 MPa so as to have an interesting behavior for clothing. It is also interesting that the elongation at break of the sheath 5 is between 500% and 1500% in order to better adapt to the needs of a garment and in particular to the needs of fire protection clothing. It is also preferable that the material forming the sheath 5 has a degradation temperature greater than 210°C and more preferably greater than 230°C. The degradation temperature may be the melting temperature. It is also preferable that the material of the sheath 5 is not brittle at a temperature equal to -20°C so as to allow its use in clothing over a wide range of use temperatures.

In an advantageous embodiment, the sheath 5 of a first wire 2a is distinct from the sheath 5 of an adjacent first wire 2a or from the sheath of an adjacent wire 2b. For an adjacent 2b wire, the core and the sheath can be made of identical or different materials. Such a configuration makes it possible to form a porous textile part 1. In an alternative embodiment, the sheath 5 of a first wire 2a is mechanically connected to the sheath 5 of an adjacent first wire 2a or to the sheath of an adjacent wire 2b by means of a layer which is more flexible than the second material forming the sheath 5. The flexibility of the layer makes it possible to have a textile part 1 whose flexibility provided by the interweaving is not or is only slightly modified by the addition of the layer. The flexibility of the layer will result in rapid wear so that the layer is incapable of providing good sealing over time and/or good protection against UV radiation. The material forming the layer may also have a melting temperature which is lower than the melting temperature of the sheath 5.

It is advantageous to have a textile which is devoid of a coating layer or whose areas having a coating layer do not face surfaces generating perspiration. The coating layer blocks air and water so that the user's sweat cannot escape, which is unpleasant. In order to have effective protection, it is sought to form a thick coating layer which strongly modifies the mechanical behavior of the textile and blocks the passage of air and water.

The second material forming the sheath 5 is preferably chosen from polyurethane-ether, polyurethane-ester, polyurethane polyacrylate, silicone, a polyolefin, a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) or a mixture of these. These materials are particularly advantageous for forming a sheath 5 which is effective in blocking water as well as UV radiation with a low thickness which makes it possible not to modify too much the mechanical behavior of the core 4.

When the temperature performance of the material forming the sheath 5 is not sufficient, it is preferable that a flame retardant be used in the sheath 5. It is also possible to use a second material which contains a flame retardant polymer, preferably at least 5% by weight. Preferably, the flame retardant is an organo-phosphorus compound. It is also possible to use a flame retardant elastomer. It is then advantageous to provide a sheath 5 whose title is between 30dTex and 3000dTex.

In order to meet particular needs, it is possible to add one or more compounds to the second material so as to improve its technical characteristics, for example by adding one or more polymer materials, one or more elastomers, polymer particles, particles minerals or even metallic particles. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the abrasion resistance of the sheath. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the blocking power of UV radiation. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve resistance to ozone. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve Infrared camouflage. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve water repellency. It is possible to add a compound intended to reduce the wicking effect. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve resistance and/or repellency to chemicals.

Advantageously, the textile part 1 is configured so that the sheath 5 of each first wire 2a can be movable relative to the adjacent wire of the part textile 1. Mobility can be observed along the longitudinal axis of the first thread 2a as well as perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. The sheath 5 does not stick to the adjacent wire 2. The deformation of the threads 2 relative to each other makes it possible to provide better flexibility of the textile part 1 compared to the configurations of the prior art. In other words, the textile part 1 does not have a coating layer which continuously connects several first adjacent threads. The formation of a porous textile part 1 is advantageous because it allows at least one flow of air to pass through the two opposite faces of the textile part 1.

By using a textile part 1 without a coating layer, it is possible to form a textile part 1 which is more flexible and which allows better ventilation. These advantages can be obtained while providing a textile part 1 whose resistance over time of the threads 2a in first material and more particularly in para-aramid is better controlled.

When the textile part 1 does not have a coating layer, it is possible to choose an interweaving configuration which makes the circulation of air through the textile part 1 more or less easy. It is also possible to choose a configuration interlacing which authorizes or prohibits the passage of humidity through the textile piece 1.

When the textile part 1 is a fabric, the interlacing configuration can be defined by the weave of the weave as well as by the number of threads 2 per surface unit. For a given diameter of wires 2, the greater the number of wires 2, the tighter the weaving, which modifies the permeability to air and water. It is possible to modify the number of warp threads for a unit of weft distance and it is possible to modify the number of weft threads for a unit of warp distance. This information can be provided in the form n threads / cm for the weft and/or the warp.

The greater the number of threads 2 per centimeter, the tighter the weave and the more difficult it will be to circulate air. In one case, the interlacing configuration is chosen so that the textile part is watertight.

However, it is particularly advantageous that the interlacing configuration is chosen so that the textile part allows water to pass through. A compromise is found in the interlacing configuration between the ability to let air and possibly water vapor pass through and resistance to abrasion and possibly punching.

Depending on the desired performance, the interlacing configuration of the textile part 1 will be adjusted. It is possible to choose one weave or another so as to promote or block the passage of air between one side of the textile piece 1 and the other side. It is also possible to choose the percentage of occupation by the threads for a given surface unit so as to modulate the capacity to allow the passage of air between one side of the textile piece 1 and the other side. The same goes for the ability to circulate water. It is possible to form a garment with several different zones. The zones are distinguished by a difference in weave and/or by a difference in the number of threads/cm.

The use of a first thread 2a which has a core 4 of first material and in particular of para-aramid covered by a protective sheath 5 which is specific to it makes it possible to form a textile part 1 whose performance is better preserved over time, particularly after multiple washes with water and after a period of exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It is possible to form a textile part 1 which is more flexible than the coated configuration of the prior art and which allows better ventilation while offering as good or even better performance over time.

The textile part 1 has a content of first threads 2a which is greater than or equal to 10%, the content is in number of threads. The textile part 2 can be formed only with first threads 2a, that is to say with a content of first threads 2a equal to 100%. With a content of first yarns 2a which is equal to 100%, it is possible to form a textile whose breathability is greater than or equal to 300L/m ² /s at 200Pa, for example a textile whose breathability is between 300 and 400L/ ^m2 /s at 200Pa. Such breathability value is much higher than which is observed with a leather jacket or a jacket covered with a coating layer without degradation of fire resistance performance.

The content of first threads 2a corresponds to the number of first threads 2a out of the total number of threads for a given surface unit, for example 1cm ² . It is particularly advantageous that the surface proportion of first wires 2a is never less than 10%, that is to say that the surface occupied by the first wires 2a is greater than 10% for a given unit of surface, for example 1cm ² . Preferably, the content of first son 2a is greater than or equal to 30%, or even 50%. The more the content of first wires 2a increases, the more the mechanical performance at high temperature increases.

The use of at least 10% of first yarns 2a having a core of first material and preferably para-aramid makes it possible to form a textile part 1 which has good resistance to opening under the effect of a flame and convective heat. Depending on the level of performance sought for resistance to opening under the effect of a flame and convective heat, the content of first wires 2a is adapted. The more the content of first wires 2a increases, the more the resistance to opening under the effect of a flame and convective heat increases.

It is advantageous to form the textile part 1 with first threads 2a which have a title of between 110dTex and 2200dTex. Depending on the mechanical performance, fire resistance performance and weight sought, those skilled in the art will choose a first 2a wire in the indicated range.

In a preferred embodiment, the textile piece 1 is formed with at least one additional thread 2b. The at least one additional yarn 2b is chosen from one or more meta-aramid yarns 2b, one or more ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene yarns and a poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) (PBO), a or more viscose yarns, one or more modacrylic yarns, one or more polyamide yarns, one or more polyester yarns, one or more PVA polyvinyl alcohol yarns, one or more polybenzimidazole PBI yarns. An ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene is a polyethylene molecule whose mass molar is greater than 10 ⁶ g/mol, preferably between 1 and 10.10 ⁶ g/mol. It can be marketed under the names Dyneema and Spectra. Poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) can be marketed under the name Zylon ^® . It is also advantageous for the at least one additional wire to optionally include a flame retardant additive.

The meta-aramid yarns, the poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) yarns and the ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene yarns form first additional yarns 2b. Preferably, the first additional threads 2b and the first threads 2a represent the majority of the threads 2 of the textile part 1. It is also advantageous that the first additional threads 2b are in the form of a core covered by a sheath. The sheath may have flame retardants. The sheath is advantageously made of the second material.

Advantageously, the threads 2 in first additional threads 2b are used in the textile part 1 in order to improve the resistance to abrasion. Preferably, at least 10% by number or volume of first additional wires 2b are used.

The additional yarn 2b can also be chosen from a natural fiber or a synthetic fiber. For example, the natural fiber is chosen from cotton or wool. The synthetic fiber can be viscose, that is to say a plastic material of plant origin, and preferably obtained from cellulose. It is also possible to use polyester, polyamide or modacrylic. The additional thread can also be elastane to provide flexibility/elasticity to the textile part 1.

It is advantageous to provide a textile part 1 which has a surface content of yarns 2 of between 10 and 40 yarns/cm (warp and/or weft) to form a textile part 1 which has good moisture transfer. The surface content corresponds to the surface occupied by the wires 2 for a given unit of surface. The rest corresponds to the through holes of textile part 1.

In a preferred embodiment, the textile piece 1 has a ratio between the average count of the first threads 2a and the average count of the additional threads 2b (T _{additional threads} /T _{first threads} ) which is between 0.5 and 10. The title average is an average title in number.

Preferably, the textile part 1 is formed with a first thread 2a whose core 4 is in the form of a long fiber, that is to say that the core 4 is formed by one or more filaments which extend continuously from one end to the other of the textile piece 1. When the core 4 is formed by several filaments, the majority or all of the filaments extend continuously from one end to the other of the textile part 1. In the prior art, the textile part has para-aramid threads whose core is formed with short fibers which are linked to each other. It is advantageous for the sheath 5 to also be in the form of a sheath 5 which extends continuously and monolithicly from one end to the other of the textile part 1.

During the manufacture of the textile part 1, the same first thread 2a can extend continuously several times from one end to the other. For example, the same first thread 2a forms several weft threads, preferably several adjacent weft threads. The continuity of the weft threads can disappear once the textile piece 1 is cut to the shape of the garment 3 or part of the garment 3.

Surprisingly, although the core 4 of the first material is coated by the sheath 5, the use of a core 4 formed by long fibers provides better resistance to pilling. Pilling resistance can be quantified by the modified Martindale method (ISO12945-2-2000 standard). Better resistance to pilling allows the textile part 1 to be kept for longer.

The use of long fibers makes it possible to have better mechanical strength and to reduce elongation in the longitudinal direction of the fiber and therefore of the first wire 2a. In association with the absence of the coating layer, the use of long fibers allows for a better compromise between flexibility and mechanical resistance without degrading breathability, for a given interweaving fibers. To obtain given mechanical and thermal performances, the use of first yarns 2a with long fibers makes it possible to form a textile part 1 whose yarns 2 are less tight against each other, which improves the thermal evaporative resistance called RET (in m ² .Pa/W), that is to say the resistance that a fabric offers to the evacuation of humidity. This resistance value is measured according to the ISO11092 standard.

In a particular embodiment, the textile part 1 has a first portion 1a and a second portion 1b. The first portion 1a and the second portion 1b share at least one first wire 2a, preferably several first wires 2a. It is particularly advantageous that the first portion 1a and the second portion 1b come from the same manufacturing step of the textile part 1, for example the same weaving step, the same knitting step or the same braiding step.

In a particular embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first thermal evaporative resistance value and the second portion 1b has a second thermal evaporative resistance value which is different from the first thermal evaporative resistance.

In another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first air permeability value and the second portion 1b has a second air permeability value which is different from the first air permeability value.

In yet another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first water permeability value and the second portion 1b has a second water permeability value which is different from the first water permeability value .

In yet another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first opening value to flame or convective heat and the second portion 1b has a second opening value to flame or heat convective which is different from the first value of opening to the flame or to convective heat.

In yet another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first mass value per unit area and the second portion 1b has a second mass value per unit area which is different from the first mass value per unit area .

In yet another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first abrasion resistance value and the second portion 1b has a second abrasion resistance value which is different from the first abrasion resistance value .

To obtain the difference in performance between the first portion 1a and the second portion 1b, it is advantageous for the first portion 1a to have an interleaving configuration which is different from the interleaving configuration of the second portion 1b. Preferably, the first portion 1a has a content of first wire 2a which is different from the content of first wire 2a in the second portion 1b as is illustrated in figures 2, 3 and 4 . Alternatively or in addition, the first portion 1a has a content of first additional wire 2b which is different from the content of first additional wire 2b in the second portion 1b.

In a particular embodiment illustrated in Figure 3 , the textile piece 1 forms all or part of a garment 3, for example a jacket. The first portion 1a and the second portion 1b have different mechanical and/or thermal performances, which makes it possible to use the same textile piece to form several different parts of the garment 3. The different parts of the garment 3 must meet different needs. By providing a monolithic textile part 1, the steps of making the garment 3 are reduced, which makes it possible to reduce the manufacturing cost and this makes it possible to improve the compromise between strength and mass.

For example, the textile part 1 may include a portion which has a low water permeability on the front face of the garment 3 and a water permeability which is high on the rear face of the garment 3 or the reverse depending on the identified needs. These two portions belong to the same monolithic textile part 1 and come from the same manufacturing step, for example the same weaving, knitting or braiding step.

It is advantageous to provide a textile part 1 which has portions 1a and 1b having different mechanical and/or thermal characteristics so as to better adapt the performances of the different portions to the needs of the garment 3. This also makes it possible to better control the mass of the clothing 3.

In the illustrated embodiments, two portions 1a and 1b are represented, but it is possible to produce three, four or more different portions. The portions differ from each other by one of the parameters identified above: thermal evaporative resistance, resistance to opening under the effect of a flame or under the effect of convective heat, permeability to air, water permeability, abrasion resistance, pilling resistance.

The textile part 1 is particularly advantageous for forming all or part of a firefighter's jacket intended to fight fire. This allows us to provide a textile part 1 which differentiates between zones intended to resist intense heat and zones better suited to promoting the evacuation of perspiration.

The textile part 1 can also form all or part of a motor vehicle driver's suit. The thermal constraints are approximately identical to those of firefighter clothing because it is necessary to be able to wick away perspiration throughout the race without neglecting flame resistance when an incident occurs.

Textile part 1 may be a textile piece of luggage. The textile part can be a furnishing textile part in order to better meet the constraints on flame-retardant textiles. The textile part 1 can be part of a piece of furniture, for example an armchair, a sofa, a seat.

It is particularly advantageous that the textile part 1 has meta-aramid threads and para-aramid threads in order to combine the advantages of each of the threads. In a particular embodiment, the meta-aramid yarns and the para-aramid yarns are bonded together so as to form only one yarn. For example, meta-aramid fibers and para-aramid fibers are combined together during the same spinning step. The sheath is formed around the para-aramid and meta-aramid wire. It is also possible to form a textile piece with two folds, namely an internal fold and an external fold. The internal ply is formed mainly or exclusively by meta-aramid threads while the external ply is formed mainly or exclusively by para-aramid threads each coated by a sheath 5. The reverse is also possible.

Preferably, the textile part 1 is obtained by weaving. The first threads 2a belong at least to the warp threads and they can belong to the warp threads and the weft threads.

For example, a fabric 1 obtained by weaving has at least one warp thread as well as several weft threads as is illustrated in Figure 1. figure 2 . The at least one warp thread and the weft threads are identical. If fabric 1 is formed by several warp threads and/or several weft threads, the latter are then identical. If fabric 1 is obtained by knitting as illustrated in Figure 3 , the threads forming the knitting are preferably identical. It is the same if fabric 1 is obtained by braiding as illustrated in Figure 1. figure 4 .

By formed by several threads, we mean that the fabric 1 has different threads. The wires are different in their mechanical performance and/or in their compositions. If the fabric 1 is obtained by weaving, it is possible to use several weft threads and/or several warp threads and at least one of the threads is different from the first thread 2a. If the fabric 1 is obtained by knitting, it is possible to use several threads, at least one of which is different from the first thread 2a. If the fabric is obtained by braiding, it is possible to use several threads, at least one of which is different from the first thread 2a. For example, the Figure 3 illustrates an embodiment of which at least one additional wire 2b is different from the first wire 2a.

The sheath 5 can be formed around the core 4 by any known process, for example by coating, by extrusion, by physical vapor deposition or by chemical deposition, for example by a sol-gel process.

To form fabric 1, it is possible to use a first yarn 2 which has a title of between 50dTex and 3300dTex. The choice of the title of the first thread 2 can be made according to the expected flexibility characteristics. If fabric 1 is formed by several threads, it is advantageous for all the threads to have a title of between 50dTex and 3300dTex.

In an advantageous embodiment, the core of the first wire 2a has a tenacity of between 6cN/Tex and 40cN/Tex. Such toughness makes it possible to have a fabric 1 particularly well suited to resist the deformation of the fabric 1 without breaking.

It is advantageous to provide that the fabric 1 has a surface mass of between 110g/m ² and 500g/m ² . The surface mass of the fabric 1 can be defined by judiciously choosing the title of the thread(s) forming the fabric and the weave of the fabric 1.

Claims (12)

Textile piece (1) comprising a plurality of interwoven threads (2), in which: - the plurality of wires (2) comprises at least 10% of first wires (2a), - each first wire (2a) has a core (4) of first material and a sheath (5) of second material different from the first material; - the first material is a para-aramid, a carbon fiber or a glass fiber; - the sheath (5) forms a watertight barrier as well as a barrier blocking ultraviolet radiation around the core (4), the second material being made of a material different from the first material; in which the sheath (5) of each first wire (2a) is spaced from the adjacent wires (2a, 2b) by an empty zone or by a layer of a material more flexible than the second material and in which the textile piece (1) is a fabric defining a first portion (1a) with a first surface content of first threads (2a) and a second portion (1b) with a second surface content of first threads (2a) greater than the first surface content and in which at least one first wire (2a) extends continuously through the first portion (1a) and the second portion (1b). Textile piece (1) according to claim 1 which is formed by 100% first threads (2a). Textile piece (1) according to claim 1 comprising at least one first additional yarn (2b) chosen from one or more meta-aramid yarns, one or more ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene yarns, one or more poly(p) yarns -phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole), one or more viscose yarns, one or more modacrylic yarns, one or more polyamide yarns, one or more polyester yarns, one or more PVA polyvinyl alcohol yarns, one or more polybenzimidazole PBI yarns, the at least one additional yarn possibly comprising a flame retardant additive. Textile part (1) according to claim 3 in which the first threads (2a) and the at least one first additional thread (2b) represent the majority of the threads (2) forming the textile part (1). Textile piece (1) according to any one of claims 3 and 4 in which a ratio between an average title of the first threads 2a and an average title of the additional threads 2b (T _{additional threads} / T _{first threads} ) is comprised of 0.5 and 10, the average title being an average title in number. Textile part (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which the second material is chosen from polyurethane-ether, polyurethane-ester, polyurethane polyacrylate, silicone, a polyolefin, a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) or a mixture of the latter possibly added with fillers. Textile piece (1) according to any one of the preceding claims in which the core (4) of each first thread (2a) is formed by one or a plurality of fibers which each extend continuously from one end to the other of the textile piece (1). Textile part (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which the sheath (5) of each first wire (2a) is spaced from the adjacent wires (2a, 2b) by an empty zone and devoid of coating layer continuously connecting the first threads (2a) so as to define an air-permeable textile piece. Textile piece (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which the textile piece (1) is a fabric having a weaving density of between 10 and 40 threads/cm to form a textile piece (1) impervious to water. water and breathable. Clothing (3) comprising a textile piece (1) according to any one of the preceding claims. Clothing (3) according to claim 10 which is fire protection clothing. Method of manufacturing a textile part (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 9 comprising the following steps: - provide at least a first wire (2a) having a core (4) of first material and a sheath (5) of second material different from the first material, the first material is a para-aramid, a carbon fiber or a carbon fiber glass, the sheath (5) forming a watertight barrier as well as a barrier blocking ultraviolet radiation around the core (4); - weave, knit or braid the at least first thread (2) to form the textile piece (1) comprising at least 10% first threads (2a), the sheath (5) of each first thread (2a) being spaced from the threads (2a, 2b) adjacent by an empty zone or by a layer of a material more flexible than the second material.

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