EP3042582B1 - Crimping system for an item of jewellery or watch including a torsion spring - Google Patents

Description

Technical area

The present invention relates to a crimping system for a timepiece or jewelery in which a gemstone is mounted to give a visual effect of vibration of the stone. The present invention also relates to a watch face and a timepiece or jewelery including such a crimping system.

State of the art

The crimping systems allow to mount one or more precious stones to a support. When the stone is fixedly mounted on the support, it is difficult to see the light reflected through the different facets of the stone since the movements of the stone are very small. Such an arrangement is therefore not optimal when looking for a certain animation effect. For this reason, crimping systems include spring elements or optical means to produce an animation effect.

In the patent US6433483 , a jewelery item has diamonds being illuminated with an illumination source. A controller controls the illumination source so as to vary the intensity of the light emitted by the source, thus making it possible to better highlight the optical effects of the diamond. However, it is often undesirable to use electronic devices in timepieces or high-end jewelry.

The document EP2510824 discloses a jewelery article comprising a precious stone fixed in a kitten mounted on a pivotal element made of plastic or elastomer. Although the whole kitten stone can move, its movement on the pivot element does not give a visual effect of vibration of the stone.

The utility model RU100367U describes a jewelery item comprising a gemstone set in a washer-shaped kitten, this set of stone-kitten is bonded to a base of the article by a cylindrical spring. The vibration of the stone mounted on the spring causes a refraction effect of the light. Fixing the ends of the spring to the kitten and the base is however complicated and delicate. In the case of small springs, which are required in the case of small stones, they may be excessively deformed when the stone moves from its original position, thereby disturbing the vibration movement of the stone and therefore the aesthetics of the room. In addition, the dimensioning of the spring so as to obtain the desired visual effect makes it fragile and the spring can also be irreversibly deformed by shocks.

The patent application WO2012 / 115458 discloses a jewelery article comprising a ring-shaped carrier having a hollow sector in which a kitten is mounted by means of a spiral or conical spring. The ends of the spring are fixed in grooves in the support and in the kitten respectively, and the kitten is oscillated under the effect of external excitations on the support. According to one embodiment, a pin is mounted through the upper part of the kitten, each end of the pin being housed in the support in a plane parallel to the plane of the spring (the spring being attached to a lower part of the kitten) . The pin is used to prevent the separation of the kitten and the support in case of major shocks. According to this document, with this construction, the lower part of the kitten can only vibrate in a direction perpendicular to the pin in the plane of the spring, and the upper part of the kitten remains effectively secured to the support.

Although such an article is less susceptible to accidental separation of the kitten and / or deformation of the spring following a major shock, the oscillations of the kitten are much too limited by the pin that dampens them permanently. This denies accordingly the desired visual effect of the article, or the vibration or movement of the stone. In addition, even after mounting a stone in the kitten, the spring and the pin remain completely visible to the wearer of the article, which undermines enormously the aesthetics of the jewelry item.

The document JP2010046218 describes a gemstone mounted in a crimping support and connected to a base via a helical compression spring. One end of the spring is attached to the crimping support and the other a rod integral with the base. The stone can oscillate and show a natural shine.

Brief summary of the invention

An object of the present invention is to provide a crimping system for a timepiece or jewelery free of limitations of the prior art known.

Another object of the invention is to obtain a crimping system having a much easier and reliable assembly of the stone in comparison with known systems, and being better adapted to the use of small stones.

According to the invention, these objects are achieved in particular by means of a crimping system comprising a crimping support; a gemstone mounted in or on the crimping support; an elastic member attached to the crimping support so as to flexibly connect the crimping support to said article; the elastic member comprising a torsion spring; a proximal portion extending from the torsion spring and being attached to the crimping support; a distal portion extending from the torsion spring and intended to cooperate with the article; the crimping support being arranged to be able to oscillate in axial and / or radial movement with respect to an axis of symmetry, following a movement of the article; and so that, in the absence of vibration, the proximal and distal portions extend substantially parallel to the axis of symmetry.

Particular and variant embodiments are described in the dependent claims.

The present invention also relates to an assembly comprising a plurality of crimping systems, as well as a timepiece or jewelery article comprising said crimping system.

Brief description of the figures

• la figure 1 montre une vue de côté d'un système de sertissage pour un article d'horlogerie ou de joaillerie, selon un mode de réalisation;
• la figure 2 montre une vue en perspective du système de sertissage de la figure 1;
• la figure 3 montre le système de sertissage de la figure 1, vu du dessus;
• la figure 4 illustre le système de sertissage, selon un autre mode de réalisation; et
• la figure 5 un élément de fixation distal du système de sertissage, selon un mode de réalisation.

Examples of implementation of the invention are indicated in the description illustrated by the appended figures in which:

• the figure 1 shows a side view of a crimping system for a timepiece or jewelery item, according to one embodiment;
• the figure 2 shows a perspective view of the crimping system of the figure 1 ;
• the figure 3 shows the crimping system of the figure 1 seen from above;
• the figure 4 illustrates the crimping system, according to another embodiment; and
• the figure 5 a distal fixing element of the crimping system, according to one embodiment.

Example (s) of embodiment of the invention

A crimping system 1 for a timepiece 6 or jewelery is illustrated in FIGS. figures 1 and 2 according to one embodiment. The crimping system 1 comprises a crimping support 3, or kitten, in which is mounted a gemstone 2, such as a diamond, ruby, sapphire or emerald. It will be understood here that the expression "a gemstone" means at least one gemstone 2, the support 3 being able to support a plurality of precious stones 2. The expression "gemstone" can also include any type of stone, such as fine stones. An elastic element 5 fixed to the crimping support 3 flexibly connects the crimping support 3 to the article 6. The elastic element 5 extends axially between the crimping support 3 and the article 6.

In this arrangement, the stone 2 can oscillate or vibrate on the elastic member 5 following a movement of the article 6 (that is, so that the crimping support, and thus the stone, can oscillate or vibrate on the elastic element 5 following a movement of the article 6). For example, during a shock or a sudden movement of the timepiece or jewelery 6 comprising the crimping system 1, the end 17 of the elastic element 5 fixed on the article 6 remains fixed while the rest of the elastic element 5 deforms elastically under the effect of the acceleration of the mass of the stone 2 and the crimping support 3. The stiffness of the elastic element 5, the mass of the stone 2 and the crimping support 3, as well as the intensity of the shock are the main factors defining the amplitude of the vibrations (or oscillations) of the stone 2. The oscillation of the stone 2 is in a radial movement with respect to an axis of symmetry 15 and an axial movement with respect to this same axis 15.

As the crimping system 1 is intended for a timepiece 6 or jewelry, it must be arranged to be able to create an animation, for example on a watch dial, based on a vibration of the stone. In other words, the crimping system 1 must be configured so that the vibration of the stone is visible. The vibration must also be durable in time and in its environment of use. On the other hand, so as to accommodate the crimping system 1, for example, between the dial and the ice of the watch, on a bezel, a jewel, its size must be minimal and the dimensions of the crimping system 1 must be reduced.

The vibration of the stone 2, in an axial and / or radial movement with respect to the axis of symmetry 15, will be visible in the case where the oscillation frequency thereof is adapted to the retinal persistence. This oscillation frequency is preferably between 1 Hz and 30 Hz.

In an embodiment illustrated in figure 1 , the elastic member comprises a torsion spring 5 formed of a coil-involute spring, hereinafter referred to as a "coil spring", comprising a coil 50 of one or more turns 10. A proximal portion 13 extends from of the winding 50 and is fixed on the crimping support 3. A distal portion 17 extends from the winding 50 and is intended to cooperate with the article 6. In the state of rest, it is in the absence of vibration, the torsion spring 5 has a configuration in which the proximal portion 13 and the distal portion 17 extend substantially parallel to the axis of symmetry 15 (the portion 13 and the axis 15 are same substantially coincidental) and the winding 50 extend substantially perpendicular to the axis of symmetry 15. The proximal portion 13 and distal portion 17 are represented in the form of a bar of substantially cylindrical section, such as the turns 10, but could take a no other form, for example, they could take the form of a bar of rectangular section, such a blade.

The length of the proximal portion 13 is determined, inter alia, by a desired vibration amplitude of the crimping support 3 and a small size of the crimping system 1. The vibration amplitude depends, among other things, on the cumulative length of the turns 10 and the proximal portion 13. The proximal portion 13 promotes an increase in amplitude by a swaying effect. The turns 10 facilitate more or less the radial movements along the axes 15 and 16 (respectively indicated by the arrows 110 and 120 in the figure 2 ). The length of the distal portion 17 has less importance on the vibration mode and can be minimized so as to reduce the size of the crimping system 1.

In vibration mode, the proximal portion 13 and distal portion 17 will deviate from their rest position mainly in the direction of the winding of the turns 10, as suggested by the arrows in FIG. figure 2 . A movement of the proximal portions 13 and distal 17 deviating in a direction perpendicular to the winding direction of the turns 10 is however not excluded (as indicated by the arrow 100 in the figure 1 ). The torsion spring 5 is thus configured to allow the crimping support 3 to oscillate in the x, y and z directions (see FIG. figure 1 ), in a rotational movement relative to the axis of symmetry 15 and 16 (indicated by the arrows 110 and 120 in the figure 2 ). Note that vibratory modes according to the different axes x, y and Z will not be the same. In particular, the eye will perceive movement more easily in one direction than in another. Given the configuration of the torsion spring 5 and the arrangement of the proximal portion 13 and distal portion 17, a movement purely in translation in the z direction, that is to say substantially parallel to the axis of symmetry 15, is unlikely. The figure 3 shows the crimping system 1 seen from above (stone side 2) and the oscillation according to the radial movement 151 which describes an ellipse. This movement promotes a flickering effect of the stone 2.

Although in Figures 1 and 3 , the winding 50 of the torsion spring 5 is shown with a cylindrical section, other types of sections, such as a conical section, are also possible. Similarly, the turns 10 of the coil spring 5 may be contiguous but may also be non-contiguous.

According to another embodiment illustrated in figure 4 the torsion spring 5 comprises a twisted spring blade 51. In the figure 4 , the proximal portion 13 and distal portion 17 are formed with the same blade forming the twisted blade 51. The spring blade forming the proximal portion 13 is oriented substantially at 90 ° with respect to the spring blade forming the distal portion 17, the torsion spring 5 being formed by the twisted portion 51 of the blade.

The twisted spring 51 may comprise a torsion or folding of the spring blade at a torsion angle greater or less than 90 °, or several twists of the blade. The proximal 13 and distal 17 portions are not necessarily integrally formed with the twisted spring 51 but may be independently manufactured and attached to the twisted spring 51 thereafter.

In all cases, the elastic element 5 preferably has a stiffness between 1.2x10 ^-5 N / m and 1.4x10 ⁺¹ N / m and the combined mass of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is preferably between 3x10-4 g and 4x10-1 g. The crimping support 3 can thus oscillate in axial and / or radial movement with respect to an axis of symmetry 15, following a movement of the article 6, with an oscillation frequency of between 1 Hz and 30 Hz. a preferred embodiment, the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 1x10 ^-3 g and 1x10 ^-1 g, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 is between 3.9x10 ^-5 N / m and 3.6 N / m. In a still more preferred manner the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 1x10 ^-2 g and 5x10 ^-2 g, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 is between 3.9x10 ^-4 N / m and 1.8 N / m. According to another preferred embodiment, in which the crimping support 3 can oscillate according to an axial and / or radial movement, following a movement of the article 6, with an oscillation frequency of between 10 Hz and 20 Hz relative to the axis of symmetry 15, the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 1x10 ^-2 g and 5x10 ^-2 g, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 is included between 3.9x10 ^-2 N / m and 7.9x10 ^-1 N / m.

The amplitude of the radial movement can be limited by a combination of the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 and the combined mass of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2.

According to an embodiment shown in figure 5 , the distal portion 17 is fixed to the article 6 by means of a fastening element In the example illustrated, the distal fixation element comprises a rod 14 extending substantially perpendicularly to the axis of symmetry 15. The rod 14 can receive a plurality of crimping systems 1, the latter being able to be more or less close together, so as to obtain a crimping system assembly 1 producing a given visual effect when the crimping systems 1 are in vibration. An array of crimping systems 1 can be obtained by assembling a plurality of rods 14, each comprising a plurality of crimping systems 1.

The crimping system 1, and the assembly comprising a plurality of crimping systems 1, can be advantageously included in an article 6 such as a jewel or a timepiece, so as to produce a visual effect by the oscillation of the crimping system (s) 1 following an external stimulation (movement of the wearer) of the article 6. In particular, the crimping system 1 or an assembly comprising a plurality of crimping systems 1 may advantageously be included on a dial. 'a watch.

Reference numbers used in the figures

1

crimping system

10

coil

13

proximal portion

14

pin

15

axis of symmetry

16

axis of symmetry

17

distal portion

2

precious stone

5

elastic element, torsion spring

50

winding

51

twisted spring

6

clock or jewelery article

30

ankle

7

profile

8

cylinder head

9

front part

100

movement perpendicular to the winding direction of the turns

110

radial movement

120

radial movement

151

radial movement

K

stiffness of the elastic element

Claims (18)

1. Setting system (1) for a watchmaking or jewellery item (6) comprising:

   a setting support (3);

   a precious stone (2) mounted in or on the setting support (3);

   an elastic element (5) fixed to the setting support (3) in such a way as to link the setting support (3) in a flexible manner to said item (6),

   a proximal portion (13) extending from the elastic element (5) and being fixed to the setting support (3); a distal portion (17) extending from the elastic element (5) and being destined to cooperate with the article (6);

   the setting support (3) being arranged to be able to oscillate with an axial and/or radial movement relative to a symmetrical axis (15), following a movement of article (6); characterized in that

   the elastic element (5) comprises a torsion spring (50, 51); and in that

   in absence of vibration, the proximal (13) and distal (17) portions extend substantially parallel to the symmetrical axis (15).
2. The setting system (1) according to claim 1,
   wherein the torsion spring comprises an involute helical spring comprising a coiling (50) of one or several coils (10).
3. The setting system (1) according to claim 2,
   wherein the coiling (50) extends in a manner substantially perpendicular to the symmetrical axis (15).
4. The setting system (1) according to claims 2 or 3,
   wherein the coiling (50) has a cylindrical section.
5. The setting system (1) according to claims 2 or 3,
   wherein the coiling (50) has a conical section.
6. The setting system (1) wherein one of the claims 2 to 5,
   wherein the coiling (50) has contiguous turns (10).
7. The setting system (1) according to claim 1,
   wherein the torsion spring (5) comprises a twisted blade (51).
8. The setting system (1) according to claim 7,
   wherein the proximal (13) and distal (17) portions are formed with the same blade forming the twisted blade (51); and wherein the proximal portion (13) is oriented substantially at 90° in relation to the distal portion (17), the twisted blade (51) being formed by the twisted portion (51) of the blade.
9. The setting system (1) according to claim 7 or 8,
   wherein the twisted spring (51) comprises a torsion of the spring blade according to a torsion angle more or less greater than 90°, or else several torsions of the blade.
10. The setting system (1) according to one of the claims 1 to 9,
    wherein the amplitude and frequency of the oscillation are limited by a combination of the stiffness of the elastic element (5) and the combined mass of the setting support (3) and the precious stone (2).
11. The setting system (1) according to one of the claims 1 to 10, wherein the elastic element (5) has a stiffness between 1.2x10^-5 N/m and 1.4x10⁺¹ N/m and the combined mass of the setting support (3) and the precious stone (2) is between 3x10^-4 g and 4x10^-1 g, so that the setting support (3) can oscillate with an oscillation frequency between 1 Hz and 30 Hz.
12. The setting system (1) according to one of the claims 1 to 10,
    wherein the elastic element (5) has a stiffness of between 3.9x10^-5 N/m and 3.6 N/m and the combined mass of the setting support (3) and the precious stone (2) is between 1x10^-3 g and 1x10^-1 g; or
    wherein the elastic element (5) has a stiffness between 3.9x10^-4 N/m and 1.8 N/m; and the combined mass of the setting support (3) and the precious stone (2) is between1x10^-2 g and 5x10^-2 g.
13. The setting system (1) according to one of the claims 1 to 10,
    wherein the setting support (3) oscillates with an axial and/or radial movement relative to a symmetrical axis (15) at an oscillation frequency between10 Hz and 20 Hz; and
    wherein the elastic element (5) has a stiffness between 3.9x10^-2 N/m and 7.9x10^-1 N/m; and the combined mass of the setting mass (3) and the precious stone (2) is between 1x10^-2 g and 5x10^-2 g.
14. Setting system (1) according to one of the claims 1 to 13,
    wherein the distal portion (17) is fixed to the article (6) by means of a distal fixing element. (14).
15. Setting system (1) according to claim 14,
    wherein the distal fixing element comprises a stem (14) extending substantially perpendicularly to the symmetrical axis (15).
16. Assembly comprising a plurality of setting systems (1) according to the claim15, said plurality of setting systems (1) being fixed on one or several stems (14).
17. Dial of a timepiece comprising a setting system (1) characterized by one of the claims 1 to 15.
18. Watchmaking or jewellery article (6) comprising the setting system (1) characterized by one of the claims 1 to 15.

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