[go: up one dir, main page]

EP2888400A1 - Matières traitées au moyen d'un polymère par coloration en anneau - Google Patents

Matières traitées au moyen d'un polymère par coloration en anneau

Info

Publication number
EP2888400A1
EP2888400A1 EP13832686.3A EP13832686A EP2888400A1 EP 2888400 A1 EP2888400 A1 EP 2888400A1 EP 13832686 A EP13832686 A EP 13832686A EP 2888400 A1 EP2888400 A1 EP 2888400A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
dye
fabric
composition
binding composition
yarn
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP13832686.3A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP2888400A4 (fr
Inventor
Randolph L. Finley
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Texstream Technologies LLC
Original Assignee
Texstream Technologies LLC
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Texstream Technologies LLC filed Critical Texstream Technologies LLC
Publication of EP2888400A1 publication Critical patent/EP2888400A1/fr
Publication of EP2888400A4 publication Critical patent/EP2888400A4/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/002—Locally enhancing dye affinity of a textile material by chemical means
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5264—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
    • D06P1/5285—Polyurethanes; Polyurea; Polyguanides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/003—Transfer printing
    • D06P5/004—Transfer printing using subliming dyes
    • D06P5/005—Transfer printing using subliming dyes on resin-treated fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/13—Fugitive dyeing or stripping dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/13—Fugitive dyeing or stripping dyes
    • D06P5/137—Fugitive dyeing or stripping dyes with other compounds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/15—Locally discharging the dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/15—Locally discharging the dyes
    • D06P5/158—Locally discharging the dyes with other compounds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P7/00—Dyeing or printing processes combined with mechanical treatment

Definitions

  • Ring dyeing is also generally achieved with the application of pigment dyes mixed with binders.
  • This approach has resulted in fabric with stiff handle and marginal rub- fastness performance; however, with advances in acrylic polymer chemistry featuring co and ter polymer blends with lower T g values, softer and more durable polymers have been created. Even with advances to improve performance, color choice and depth of shade versus rub fastness performance remain challenges. Efforts to improve rub fastness performance through new polyvinyl alcohol emulsion systems have met with some improvement. (See Schoots et al, U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2011/0009021 Al).
  • a dye binding composition for a ring dyed material comprising a urethane based polymer having a solids percentage in the composition of between 0.5% and 50%> by weight. In some embodiments, the solids percentage in the composition is between 2.0% and 12.0%. In some embodiments, the composition further includes a cationic material. In still further embodiments, the cationic material is selected from the group consisting of guanidine and urethane. In yet still further embodiments, the composition further includes a UV inhibitor. In some embodiments, the urethane based polymer is a polyurethane dispersion.
  • a ring dyed yarn including at least one fiber; and a dye binding composition for a ring dyed material
  • the composition comprising a urethane based polymer having a solids percentage in the composition of between 0.5% and 50%) by weight.
  • the yarn includes at least one dye configured to selectively dye the dye binding composition positioned on at least a portion of the surface of the fiber.
  • at least some of the dye binding composition is positioned on at least a portion of the surface of the fibers.
  • the fiber is selected from the group consisting of cotton, wool, silk, hemp, flax, polyester, rayon, acetate, nylons, spandex, olefins, polyethylene, polyethylene, and polypropylene.
  • a fabric including fibers; a dye binding composition for a ring dyed material, the composition comprising a urethane based polymer having a solids percentage in the composition of between 0.5%> and 50%> by weight, wherein at least some of the dye binding composition is positioned on at least a portion of the surface of the fibers; and at least one dye configured to selectively color the dye binding composition positioned on at least a portion of the surface of the fibers is provided.
  • the dye binding composition further includes a cationic material selected from the group consisting of guanidine and urethane.
  • the at least one dye does not directly dye the fibers.
  • the fabric comprises denim.
  • the fibers include at least one of cotton fibers and synthetic fibers.
  • a garment including fabric comprising fibers; a dye binding composition for a ring dyed material, the composition comprising a urethane based polymer having a solids percentage in the composition of between 0.5% and 50% by weight, wherein at least some of the dye binding composition is positioned on at least a portion of the surface of the fibers; and at least one dye configured to selectively dye the dye binding composition positioned on at least a portion of the surface of the fibers is provided.
  • the garment includes a first surface area comprising the dye binding composition that has been dyed with the at least one dye and a second surface area that is free of the dye binding composition.
  • a method of producing ring dyed or surface dyed fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment including applying a dye binding composition for a ring dyed material to at least one of the fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment, the composition comprising a urethane based polymer having a solids percentage in the composition of between 0.5%> and 50%> by weight; heating the fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment to cause the dye binding composition to mobilize to a surface of the fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment; and applying at least one selective dye to the at least one of the fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment, wherein the selective dye is selective for the dye binding composition.
  • the dye binding composition and the selective dye are applied simultaneously. In some embodiments, the dye binding composition and the selective dye are applied sequentially. In further embodiments, the method further includes abrading at least a portion of the surface of the garment to remove at least some of the dye binding composition that has been dyed with the at least one dye such that the garment has first areas comprising fibers that comprise the dye binding composition that has been dyed with the at least one dye and second areas comprising fibers that do not include the dye binding composition. In some embodiments, the abrading is performed based on at least one of: sanding; application of diatomaceous earth; and application of pumice stones to the garment.
  • the heating the dye binding composition is performed using at least one of a curing oven, steam cans, and hot flue.
  • the selective dye is applied using at least one of thermosol dyeing on a continuous dye range or tenter frame, pad steaming on a continuous pad/steam range or flash ageing machine, jet dyeing, jigger dyeing, beam dyeing, pad/dry/thermosol dyeing, and printing.
  • FIG. 1 is a diagram showing the impact of shade on chemical application at varying dye concentrations, in accordance with an embodiment of the disclosure.
  • any terms expressed in the singular form herein are meant to also include the plural form and vice versa, unless explicitly stated otherwise.
  • the term “a” and/or “an” shall mean “one or more,” even though the phrase “one or more” is also used herein. It should also be understood that while some embodiments describe the methods or products as comprising one or more elements, the methods or elements may also consist of or consist essentially of the elements disclosed herein.
  • a dye binding composition for preparing a ring dyed yarn and/or a surface dyed material.
  • the surface dyed material is prepared with the ring dyed yarn.
  • the dye binding composition includes a polymer and/or additives that are engineered to either provide a minimum or maximum degree of migration to position the composition within or on a fiber surface depending on molecular weight and monomer selection.
  • the polymer is generally applied in an aqueous media and can be formulated from a number of monomers in the urethane, guanidine, azetidinium, and vinyl halogen families to form polymer emulsions.
  • the solids added on to the textile substrate can range from 0.5% to 50%> by weight; but generally 2.0% to 12.0%) percent is desired. Additionally, the polymer has good film forming properties, is durable to laundering conditions, has the ability to incorporate materials that can provide targeted dyestuff attraction and durability, and/or is capable of fixing the dye in its matrix.
  • the dye binding composition comprises a urethane based polymer with a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 400,000 g/mole.
  • the urethane based polymer has a molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 200,000 g/mole.
  • the urethane based polymer is designed to attract and hold selective dyes; however, in some embodiments, additional materials can be added as discussed below.
  • the urethane based polymer in some embodiments, comprises a polyurethane dispersion.
  • polyurethane dispersion describes stable mixtures of polyurethane polymers in water.
  • Polyurethane polymers are generally characterized by their monomer content and most commonly involve the reaction of a diisocyanate with a polyol and chain extender.
  • the polyurethane dispersion can be a stable aqueous mixture of any known polyurethane.
  • the polyurethanes suitable for use in the aqueous polyurethane dispersions are the reaction products (a) an isocyanate compound having at least two isocyanate ( ⁇ NCO) functionalities per molecule; and (b) a polyol having at least two hydroxy functionalities per molecule and a molecular weight ranging from 250 to 10,000 g/mole.
  • Exemplary polyol include hydroxy-containing or terminated polyethers, polyesters, polycarbonates, polycaprolactones, polythioethers, polyetheresters, polyolefms, and polydienes.
  • Suitable polyether polyols for the preparation of polyether polyurethanes and their dispersions include the polymerization products of cyclic oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, tetrahydrofuran, or mixtures thereof.
  • Polyether polyols commonly found include polyoxyethylene (PEO) polyols, polyoxypropylene (PPO) polyols,
  • polyoxytetramethylene (PTMO) polyols and polyols derived from the mixture of cyclic oxides such as poly(oxyethylene-co-polypropylene) polyols.
  • Typical molecular weight of polyether polyols can range from 250 to 10,000 g/mole.
  • Suitable polyester polyols for the preparation of polyester polyurethanes and their aqueous dispersions include hydroxy-terminated or containing reaction products of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethyl ene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1-4, butanediol, furan dimethanol, polyether diols, or mixtures thereof, with dicarboxylic acids or their ester- forming derivatives.
  • Modified polyether polyurethanes such as polyetherester polyurethanes and polyethercarbonate polyurethanes may also be suitable polyurethanes for the preparation of aqueous polyurethane dispersions.
  • modified polyether polyurethanes can be derived by incorporating additional polyester polyols or polycarbonate polyols into polyether polyols during the polyurethane manufacturing.
  • the polyurethane dispersion as component in the compositions of the dye binding composition is selected from polyether polyurethanes, polyester polyurethanes, polycarbonate polyurethanes, polyetherester polyurethanes, polyethercarbonate polyurethanes, polycaprolactone polyurethanes, hydrocarbon
  • polyurethanes aliphatic polyurethanes, aromatic polyurethanes, and combinations thereof.
  • Polyurethane dispersion as used herein encompasses both conventional emulsions of polyurethane polymers, for example where a preformed polyurethane polymer is emulsified into an aqueous medium with the addition of surfactants and application of shear, and also includes stable mixtures of self-dispersing polyurethane polymers.
  • polyurethane dispersions are generally free of external surfactants because chemical moieties having surfactant like characteristics have been incorporated into the polyurethane polymer and therefore are "self emulsifying" or “self dispersing.”
  • Representative examples of internal emulsifier moieties that can be incorporated into the polyurethane dispersions useful in the present invention include ionic groups such as sulfonates, carboxylates, and quaternary amines, as well as nonionic emulsifier groups such as polyethers.
  • an isocyanate-terminated polyurethane prepolymer is made from isocyanates, polyols, optional chain extender, and at least one monomer containing a hydrophilic group to render the prepolymer water dispersible.
  • the polyurethane dispersion can then be prepared by dispersing the isocyanate-terminated polyurethane prepolymer in water with other polyisocyanates. Further chain extension can be affected by the addition of chain extenders to the aqueous dispersion.
  • an additional reaction step may be needed to convert the hydrophilic group to an ionic species, for example converting a carboxyl group to an ionic salt or an amine to an amine salt or cationic quaternary group.
  • materials that can attract targeted dyes within the polymeric matrix are incorporated into the dye binding composition.
  • the dye binding composition comprises cellulose esters including cellulose acetate, cellulose propionate, cellulose butyrate, and combinations thereof. In other embodiments, the dye binding composition comprises the polymer and the cellulose ester. In further embodiments, the total solids of the dye binding composition is 50%, where the concentration of one or more of the cellulose esters is in the range of 1.0% to 25% solids and the concentration of the polymer is 25% to 49% solids.
  • the one or more cellulose esters in some embodiments, comprise finely ground powder having a particle size ranging from 0.5 microns to 10 microns. In other embodiments, the finely ground powder of the cellulose esters have a particle size ranging from 1 micron to 3 microns.
  • the cellulose ester is added to the dye binding composition in powder form.
  • the total solids of the emulsion may vary between 10% and 60% in concentrated form, with the ratio of the polymer to the one or more cellulose esters remaining between 2% and 50% of the total solids percentage.
  • the dye binding composition is applied to fibers, yarns, fabrics, and garments in concentrations ranging from 0.5%> to 50%> solids; however, with greater percent solids come greater expense and greater stiffness.
  • the percent solids range to be applied to the fibers, yarns, fabrics, or garments is between 2.0 and 12.0%). In further embodiments, the percent solids range to be applied to the fibers, yarns, fabrics, or garments is between 3.0 and 10.0%.
  • the dye binding composition, including the percentage of solids in the composition is specifically engineered to produce a dye binding composition that causes the polymer and/or selective dye to migrate to the surface for use in producing ring dyed yarns and/or surface dyed fabrics.
  • Yarns and fabrics can be constructed from any of a host of textile fiber, particularly natural fibers including cotton, wool, silk, hemp, flax, or synthetic fibers including polyesters, rayon, acetate, acrylics, nylons (aromatic and aliphatic), modacrylics, spandex, olefins inclusive of super high molecular weight polyethylene, polyethylene, polypropylene, etc., or combinations of two or more of these fibers.
  • the yarn contains fiber comprised of 100% cotton.
  • the yarns comprise cotton fibers blended with non-cotton fibers. The blend of fibers, in some embodiments, is at least 50%) cotton fibers.
  • the dye binding composition further includes a UV inhibitor to improve light fastness performance, such as hindered amine light stabilizers (HALS).
  • HALS hindered amine light stabilizers
  • the light stabilizer can be added to the polymer mixture prior to application or after the polymer has cured either as a part of a dye mixture or alone. Both methods have shown effectiveness at improving lightfastness performance.
  • Several low and high molecular materials are commercially available from companies including Cytec, Clariant, Great Lakes, and Ciba/Huntsman.
  • An exemplary UV inhibitor includes a high molecular weight material that can be incorporated into the bath and that will eventually migrate to the surface of the film as the polymer film is formed upon drying.
  • UV inhibitors can also be added to the final finishing bath to coat the surface of the polymer before or after the application of dye.
  • UV absorbing materials are also available that can serve a similar purpose through a different mechanism typically in the benzotriazole family and are available from Cytec.
  • the dye binding composition comprises a cationic polymer that is incorporated into the urethane matrix.
  • a cationic polymer comprises guanidine and/or urethane.
  • the guanidine and urethane can be combined to create a polymeric film that is cationic depending upon the percentage of the guanidine that has been incorporated into the matrix.
  • the dye binding composition comprises guanidine and a urethane based polymer.
  • the total percent solids of the dye binding composition is 50% solids, where the guanidine makes up 5% to 45% solids of the total solids percentage of the dye binding composition and the urethane based polymer makes up 45%) to 5%> of the total solids percentage of the dye binding composition.
  • the urethane based polymer is present in the dye binding composition at a greater percentage than the cationic material. In a further embodiment, the urethane based polymer is present in the dye binding composition at a lesser percentage or at an
  • the mix to be applied to the textile substrate is generally prepared by blending the dye binding composition with water having a temperature range of 80° to 100°
  • the pH of the water/polymer mixture is not less than 6.0 and not greater than 8.0 after the addition of the polymer; however, pH levels slightly outside this range have not been shown to be detrimental. Anti-migrating agents and UV inhibitors may be added at this time if desired.
  • the polymer percent solids concentration range of the dye binding composition is, in some embodiments, from 1% to 25% solids. In one exemplary embodiment, the dye binding composition has a percent solids concentration range of between 2% and 12% solids depending on hand and depth of color considerations.
  • the dye binding composition is formulated based on the yarn, fabric, or garment wet pickup in order to provide the appropriate targeted percent solids add on of between 2.0% and 12%.
  • pad wet pickups will generally vary from 45% to 220% depending on pad nip pressures, post vacuuming of fabric, bath viscosity, and/or absorbency of the padded material. Percent wet pickup is calculated as the [(fabric wet weight after padding)-(fabric dry weight before padding)]/(fabric dry weight before padding) * 100.
  • the wet pickup of most 100% cotton fabrics ranges from 85 to 100%), so to achieve a solids add-on of 3%, a bath concentration of 3% solids (6% of the dye binding material with 50% active solids material) with a wet pick-up of 100%) would yield the appropriate solids addition.
  • Lower moisture add on applications as low as 10%> have been demonstrated using foaming techniques; however, the main body of the work has been done with more conventional chemical application techniques.
  • wet pickup levels generally are controlled between 20 and 40% depending upon the amount of moisture needed on the fabric for finishing and the appearance desired.
  • the evenness and rate of drying determines the amount of chemical that migrates to the fabric surface.
  • the fabric can be processed through pre-dryers prior to drying and curing on a tenter frame.
  • fabric can be processed on a tenter frame such that the fabric is only partially dried. This can be accomplished by lowering the tenter zone temperatures and increasing the speed of the fabric.
  • the moisture level of the fabric should be controlled to between 8 and 15%. Final drying and curing is achieved in subsequent processing.
  • yarns may be coated and the polymer of the dye binding composition dried such that the yarns are not broken from being stuck together after drying.
  • the dye binding composition can be applied to scoured yarn, scoured & bleached yarn, or yarn in its raw state. Each condition provides a different appearance with the raw yarn providing the greatest ring dyed characteristic. Bath concentrations are also different under each condition because of the absorbency of the yarn for the polymer/water mixture; however, targeted solids addition range from 2.0% to 12.0% depending upon the size of the yarn being treated.
  • the yarn can be coated.
  • One method is to process the yarn through a pad with the dye binding composition comprising the mixture of polymer, water, and auxiliaries.
  • the bath temperature can be adjusted to between 65° and 190° F; however, the most consistent results occur when the bath temperature is controlled to between 80° and 100° F.
  • Drying can be done using a forced air oven, pre-dryers, a thermosol oven, hot flue oven, microwave or steam cans, or a combination of any of the above.
  • Treated yarns are collated on either a loom beam or a section beam for future processing.
  • a resulting section beam comprised of treated yarns can be combined with many other beams, sized with an easily removed material such as starch or polyvinyl alcohol, or if sufficient polymer has been applied, not sized at all.
  • an easily removed material such as starch or polyvinyl alcohol, or if sufficient polymer has been applied, not sized at all.
  • the resultant fabric can then be dyed with dyes targeted to dye the polymeric material of the dye binding composition. Dyes are selected for their propensity to not stain cotton - both in the dyeing stage and in the washing stage when the polymeric material is being applied to cotton or cotton blends and a ring dyed appearance is desired.
  • chemical can be applied to the yarn by passing it through a foaming unit allowing both chemical and moisture to be metered onto the fabric. This technique minimizes chemical waste and allows specific levels of the dye bonding polymer to be applied to the yarn.
  • Dye can be applied either in fabric form or garment form depending upon the dye binding composition selected.
  • Exemplary dyes include acid dyes and selectively reactive dyes for the polymer containing guanidine or other cationic materials, and disperse dyes for any of the dye binding compositions.
  • One advantage of dyeing in fabric form is the ability to see the color and shade of the fabric before going to the customer.
  • fabric panels can be prepared and laundered to ensure that the shade of the fabric is consistent before constructing garments and laundering them to create denim appearing garments. This approach allows the flexibility to produce denim appearing fabric and garments in multiple colors, depth of color, and engineered color retention depending on the polymer selected and the penetration of the material during processing.
  • the polymer of the dye binding composition is engineered to accept selective dyes.
  • One dyeing method is to apply dyes in a pad, dry the fabric, and heat the fabric to between 390° and 425° F for a minimum of 30 seconds depending on the selective dye.
  • the dyes are designed to sublime (transform from a solid state to a gaseous state) between these temperatures. In the gaseous state, the dyes are selectively attracted to the polyurethane polymer and/or the cellulose acetate material within the polymeric matrix, and generally not to the cellulosic fibers of the fabric. Subsequent washing is generally effective at removing selective dye not fixed within the polymeric matrix if the dyes are properly chosen and the proper washing conditions are utilized. Care must be used with this approach if stretch fibers are incorporated within the fabric because spandex can be reset or degraded at these elevated temperatures.
  • the fabric is finished by the application of sewing lubricants and water soluble hand-builders if needed. These are generally applied in a pad or foamed onto the fabric prior to drying on a tenter frame.
  • the final process involves preshrinking the fabric and adding a uniform skew in the direction of the twill line. This prevents twisted legs in finished garments, and ensures that the shrinkage of the fabric when wet processed does not exceed 3%.
  • fabric shrinkage in the warp or lengthwise direction for high cotton blends ranges from 8% to 12%.
  • Another method of applying color to the treated fabric is to apply the selective dye in a pad and steam the fabric for a period of between 30 seconds and 3 minutes.
  • the polymer and cellulose acetate generally will dye under these conditions depending upon the dye selection and polymer selection.
  • This steaming process may be used for stretch fabrics for which the substrate will be dyed in fabric rather than garment form.
  • the finishing process may include a heatsetting step to stabilize the width of the fabric.
  • the application of finishing chemicals including a UV stabilizer can occur in this stage.
  • Spandex or stretch polyesters in the filling direction will have a tendency of staining or becoming colored in this application; therefore it is better to have a core spun cotton spandex stretch yarn than one comprised of a composite polyester yarn such as LYCRA® T-400® by INVISTATM or filling yarn comprised of poly-butylene terephthalate. The best results have been demonstrated on core spun products consisting of cotton with a spandex core.
  • One significant advantage to this process is that it bypasses the need to dye the yarn in rope form on a denim range, apply size, and then spend time, energy, and chemical resources to remove all of the size and some of the color to create a finished garment.
  • the amount of selective dye needed to achieve saturated shades ranges from 0.5 to 2.0% OWG instead of the higher 3 to 5 percent OWG indigo concentrations desired for denim.
  • One additional option for the dye binding composition is to dye the fabric after garments are sewn using selective dyes in the wet processing step. For example, garments are placed in a laundering machine, water added to produce a 4: 1 to 20: 1 liquor to goods ratio, the pH adjusted to 4.0 with acetic acid, 0.5% and 3% OWG (on weight of goods) selective dye added, the machine heated to 190° F at a rate of 5° F per minute, the
  • fabric can be dyed in a number of ways. These include but are not limited to: thermosol dyeing on a continuous dye range or tenter frame, pad steaming on a continuous pad/steam range or flash ageing machine, jet dyeing, jigger dyeing, beam dyeing, pad/dry/thermosol dyeing, and printing. Fabric can also be dyed using a high pressure steamer in which superheated steam is used to achieve temperatures approaching 220° F.
  • This technology offers new design and merchandising opportunities that can create unique and fashion forward fabric and garment concepts.
  • the embodiments presented herein address many of the performance deficiencies inherent in many products on the market today, and provides significant environmental advantages to the current processes. A number of these ideas are advanced below. The general process is as follows:
  • the prepared fabric is padded with the dye binding composition comprising the polymer to achieve a polymer percent solids concentration of between 0.5% and 10% solids.
  • the polymer percent solids concentration is between 2.0% and 7.5%) and is calculated as described above.
  • Fabric is dried using one or more methods including predryers, tenter frames, dry cans, forced air ovens, electric elements, microwave energy or a combination of the same. This drying step will cause a film to form. Curing of the polymer will result at between 250° and 320° F.
  • dye can be applied by pad/roll/extract. Fixation of the dye to the polymer can be accomplished for polyester dyes by steaming at 212° to 219° F for 30 seconds to 3 minutes or thermosol dyeing at between 380° and 425° F for 30 to 45 seconds depending on the dye selection.
  • the pad/steam option using acid dyes or selectively reactive dyes at pH levels below 5.0 can be incorporated.
  • Fabric can be dyed by other methods; however, care must be exercised to avoid abrasion in fabric form unless this is desired for novel effects in garment form. In this case, dyeing could be accomplished in a dye jet. In the case of knits, this is the preferred method of dye application other than in garment form. If a soft flow jet is used such as a Gaston County FUTURA® or other similar machine, knits can be dyed with a minimum amount of abrasion in fabric form.
  • Jigger dyeing has the advantage of allowing dye to be applied to fabric in batches by the continuous rolling and rerolling of fabric from one side of the machine to the other with dye liquor exchange occurring during the transferring process. This process allows for the heating of dye liquor, keeps the liquor to fabric ratio low, and allows for evenness of dyeing as long as too much excess dye is not incorporated into the bath. There are a finite number of dye sites available within the polymer matrix thereby limiting the depth of shade. For this application, dye selection is important in controlling the shade. Efforts to match strike rates of the selective dye onto the polymer have been found to dictate whether shade continuity can be controlled from one lot to the next.
  • the dyeing process is not conducted in fabric form for fabric in which the color is to be applied in garment form.
  • the dyed fabric can now be finished by padding softeners onto the fabric, framing to width while drying, and removing residual shrinkage through the sanforization process.
  • biodegradable materials in the entire process can be reduced between 80 and 90 percent. Furthermore, water and energy use can be reduced between 50 and 70 percent to achieve comparable-appearing garments after wet processing steps in garment form.
  • Additional application methods and embodiments of this technology include that with the selection of the targeted polymeric urethanes or urethane mixtures, it is possible to combine the urethane mixture and dye in a single mixture and subsequently apply this to a fabric substrate.
  • the dye has been shown to congregate with the urethane mixture in solution and migrate with the urethane during drying leaving the fiber below undyed. This is specifically demonstrated when the substrate is cotton or when the dye has a greater affinity for the polymeric mixture than the substrate.
  • Example #1A (Dyeing of treated fabric in garment form)
  • Mock pant legs were prepared and laundered as follows: 2.0 kg of treated pant legs were loaded into a 35 pound Milnor sample machine. 30 liters of water were added to the machine resulting in a 15: 1 liquor to goods ratio. The pH was adjusted to 4.0 by the addition of 10 ml of acetic acid. DIANIX® Lum Yellow 10G (0.8% OWG) and DIANIX® Lum Red 4B-E (0.2% OWG) were diluted in 1 liter of hot 160° F water and stirred for 2 minutes to disperse the powdered dyes into solution. The dyes were added to the bath while the garments were being agitated. The washer was heated at a rate of 5° F per minute until reaching 180° F.
  • Example #1B (Dyeing treated fabric in garment form adding an abrasive material)
  • Example #1C (Dyeing of treated fabric in fabric form on a pad/steam range)
  • Example #1 Fabric from Example #1 was processed in the lab through a dye bath containing 10 grams/liter of DIANIX® Royal Blue CC (pH of 4.0 adjusted with acetic acid).
  • the pad steam range provided a dwell time of 50 seconds at a steamer temperature of 218° F. Fabric was rinsed, extracted, and dried on a hot head press. A medium royal blue fabric resulted. 1.0 kg of pant legs were loaded into an 80 pound Milnor sample washing machine. 75 liters of water and 3.0 kg of pumice stone were added as an abrasive.
  • the garments were processed at 80° F for 40 minutes, rinsed, and processed with 1.2% OWG (on weight of garments) of an acid enzyme (SEYCOZYME TCE®) Sydel Wooley & Company a pH of 4.0 at 125° F for 20 minutes to remove the surface hairs, the acid enzyme denatured as previously described, rinsed twice, softened as described above, extracted, and dried at 140° F for 40 minutes.
  • the resulting pant legs were a royal blue shade and displayed abrasion at the seams exemplified by a loss of color in those areas.
  • the fabric was tested for lightfastness, colorfastness, and ozone fading.
  • washfastness American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists test method "AATCC” 61 2A results showed some staining on nylon and acetate and almost no staining on cotton and polyester fibers.
  • the shade change was between a 3.0 and 3.5 rating.
  • Treated fabric from Example #1 was selected.
  • a transfer paper was printed with color from four dot matrix printers with low energy disperse dyes.
  • the printed paper was placed on the fabric face, heated to 400° F by passing the paper and fabric sandwich over heated steel rollers.
  • the printed design was transferred to the polymer on the fabric surface.
  • Fabric was laundered through five AATCC 135 III Ai cycles (machine wash warm with 105° F water, dry at hot temperature) to access color retention. Less than 25% of the color was lost. Some abrasion of the fabric was observed.
  • a solution containing approximately 3% solids was prepared by adding 6%> of dye bonding composition (50% solids) with 0.5% TINUVIN® 622 from CIBA® Chemical Company and water at 80° F.
  • the dyed fabric was padded through a lab padder set at 40 psi resulting in a fabric wet pickup of 90%>, and dried with predryers and dry cans.
  • DIANIX® Red CC was prepared by diluting 5 grams DIANIX® Orange SG and 2.0 grams of DIANIX® Red CC dye to 1.0 liter and adjusting the pH to 4.0 with acetic acid. Dye was padded onto the fabric resulting in a wet pickup of close to 100%. After steaming the fabric for 40 seconds at 212° F, washing and drying of the dyed fabric completed the process. Only the surface of the fabric was dyed to a chestnut brown color. When the fabric was cut or torn, the center of the fabric was clearly still the almond color.
  • Fabric swatches were assembled into miniature pant legs with seams characteristic of 5 pocket jean construction.
  • 1.0 kg of chestnut brown and 4.0 kg of white bull denim ballast garments were loaded into an 80 pound Milnor sample washing machine. 75 liters of water and 2.5 kg of pumice stone added as an abrasive.
  • the garments were processed at 80° F for one hour, rinsed twice, softened as described above, extracted, and dried at 140° F for 40 minutes.
  • the resulting garments had the almond color showing through on the seams and slightly in the flat areas of the mock pant legs resulting in an antique looking garment.
  • An 8/1 rough spun ring spun yarn was selected for treatment. 1.0 kg of the yarn was scoured and bleached and 1.0 kg of the yarn was used as spun. A mixture comprising the dye bonding composition containing 3% solids was prepared using the urethane polymer previously described and water at 80° F. The solution was padded onto each yarn using a single end size application apparatus. A wet pickup of the scoured and bleached yarn was 120% resulting in a solids add-on of 3.6%. The wet pickup of the untreated yarn was 90%> resulting on a solids add-on of 2.7%. Both samples were dried by passing through a forced hot air oven at 100 m/min for 3 minutes at 90 degrees C. Both yarns were smooth to the touch.
  • Denim fabric was woven by inserting 50 and 58 picks per inch picks of the treated yarn in the filling direction across a 4.5/1 100% cotton warp with 32 ends/inch in a 3x1 left hand twill construction.
  • the fabric width was 59 inches off the loom.
  • Example #3 A (Denim fabric colored during the laundering process)
  • Garments were constructed without further processing. In constructing pant legs and a garment for color evaluation, the pattern markers were rotated 90° so that the treated yarn was in the lengthwise direction of the pant leg. Prior to construction into garments, the fabric was heated to 325° F for 3 minutes to ensure that the polymer was sufficiently cured.
  • the finished pant legs had a denim-like appearance with abrasion characterized by areas in which there was little or no color at the seam areas, pockets, and waist band.
  • the dye did not stain the untreated cotton filling yarns or the fiber underneath the polymer matrix.
  • Example #3B (Denim fabric colored with multiple colors)
  • Example #3 A was repeated except instead of dyeing a blue denim color, orange, red, fluorescent yellow, and green colors were dyed using the dye combinations in Table 1 :
  • Example #3C (Denim fabric dyed prior to constructing garments)
  • Fabric from Example #3 was taken and cut in the width direction into 12 inch strips 59 inches long.
  • a dye bath was prepared by diluting 20 grams of DIANIX® Blue UN- SE in one liter of 120° F water. The pH was adjusted to 4.0 by adding 1.0 gram of acetic acid. Fabric was padded through the dye solution and steamed for 40 seconds at 212° F, rinsed through boxes at 160° F, and dried in a forced air oven. The same fabric was padded through an identical dye bath as above, dried on pre-dryers and dry cans, and heated to 400° F for 30 seconds.
  • Mock pant legs were constructed and laundered at 80° F for 60 minutes with 1 g/1 non-ionic surfactant and rounded pumice stones in a 35 pound Milnor washer to enhance abrasion.
  • the bath was dropped, refilled, softener added, heated to 120° F for 5 minutes, extracted and dried.
  • the resulting mock pant legs had abrasion at the seams and a denim-like appearance with negligible staining of the untreated cotton fiber.
  • Example #4 Application of dye to fibers that are difficult to dye
  • DYNEEMA® super high molecular weight polyethylene manufactured by DSM Dyneema LLC
  • nylon nylon
  • Garments were weighed and prepared for treatment. Previous efforts to color this undyeable fiber were met with failure.
  • a bath was prepared by mixing 300 grams of the dye bonding composition comprised of a 50% solids urethane solution to 5 liters of 80° F water creating a 3% solids solution. 1kg of garments were dipped into the bath and soaked for 1 minute. The garments were removed, extracted, and 40% of the urethane solution remained. The garments were dried at 160° F for 30 minutes in a gas fired drier. Treated garments were dyed as follows:
  • Dye was applied by padding and squeezing excess dye from the fabric achieving a wet pickup of around 75%. Fabric was steamed for 50 seconds at 218° F with saturated steam. Dyed fabric was rinsed with hot 165° F water and 0.01% surfactant to remove excess dye. Fabric was dried and colorfastness performance assessed. Results of a number of dyes evaluated have been illustrated below in Table 2:
  • DIANIX® Yellow S- 4G 5.0 1.5 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 4.5 3.0
  • DIANIX® Orange S- G 10.0 3.5 3.5 4.5 3.5 3.5 2.5 4.5 4.0
  • DIANIX® Rubine CC 5.0 3.5 2.0 3.0 4.0 3.0 1.5 3.0 4.0
  • grading is done on a scale of
  • a rating of 1.0 indicates significant color change; a rating 5.0, no color change. Ratings of 3.5 and above are generally considered good. For the dyes listed above, several would be unsuitable for this application. A dye that has poor washfastness such as
  • DIANIX® Lum Red G may appear a poor candidate if only assessing washfastness
  • this dye may be the only option available.
  • chemical additives can be incorporated into the polymeric mixture to improve performance.
  • materials are available after wet processing that can improve this performance. Dyes assessed in this fashion have been selected as candidates for this process.
  • Dye Process 1 10 g/1 dye padded, steamed, washed, and dried.
  • Dye Process 2 10 g/1 dye padded, predryed, can dried, and thermosol dyed at 416° F for 50 seconds, washed, and dried.
  • Dye Process 3 Dye Process 1 & Thermosol dyed at 416° F for 50 seconds, washed, and dried) on the same piece of fabric.
  • the pad steam option appears to provide the best lightfastness and washfastness result likely from minimizing dye staining of the untreated cotton and keeping excess dye from the fabric surface.
  • a 7.8 oz/yd 2 3x1 Left Hand Twill 99/1 Cotton/Spandex fabric with a finished construction of 109 ends per inch x 50 picks per inch comprising a 20/1 Ring Spun Warp and a 10/1 open end + 14/1 + 70 denier spandex filling was prepared by a desize, caustic scour, bleach, mercerize process before dyeing.
  • the fabric was processed by applying a urethane mixture adjusted to a pH of 5.8 with acetic acid with 4.1 percent solids.
  • a wet pickup of 72% resulted in a solids pickup on the fabric of 3.0 percent. Moisture was reduced to about 45% before the fabric was dried and cured on dry cans.
  • Example #6A Fabric was dyed into a multitude of shades on a pad steam range. Preliminary work in the lab revealed that at a 3.0% chemical application level, most medium shades were able to be matched. One color selected was Spiced Orange. The dye formulation contained:
  • Fabric was processed at 75 yards per minute by applying the Spiced Orange dye formulation through a Kuster pad with a measured pickup of 75%. The dyes were fixed after processing through a tight laced steamer at 216° F for 50 seconds. Very little excess dye was observed during the washing process. The fabric was dried, finished, and sanforized to remove shrinkage.
  • the fabric was tested for a number of physical and colorfastness performance parameters as depicted below. Washfastness performance was better before than after finishing. The chemical formulation in finishing is likely the cause. Fabric was made into garments and wet processed. Washfastness performance improved after wet processing with only a 15 to 20% reduction in shade except on the seams and hand sanded areas.
  • Pilling (Random Tumble) ASTM D-3512 30 60 minutes
  • Fabric was constructed into a womens wear jean cut in a size 6. Four sets of garment increments, each set consisting of three garments and weighing 1.0 kg, were processed to evaluate the impact of wash procedure on overall appearance and aesthetic. The wash procedures included:
  • the rinse wash was effective at softening the fabric hand and little to no abrasion was observed.
  • the color appeared similar to that of a garment constructed from a piece dyed fabric.
  • the thigh portion of the garment was presanded prior to laundering. In all cases, these sanded areas appeared lighter and worn with white, undyed cotton apparent in the more heavily sanded areas.
  • Garments that were enzyme washed for 20 minutes had a shade drop of about 10% and a slight bit of abrasion on the side seams, belt loops, and bottom hems of each leg. The sanded areas were clearly lighter than the unsanded areas.
  • Adding stonewashing to the process provided an abraded look generally seen in ring dyed or surface dyed fabrics.
  • the abrasion was greater after 40 minutes than 20 and both garments had excellent abrasion without any significant destruction to the integrity of the garment.
  • more than twice the stone washing is required and physical damage to the garment is generally observed.
  • a raw 20/1 Ring Spun 100% cotton warp comprised on 4260 ends was processed through a box containing a urethane mixture consisting of 9% solids. After the yarn was dipped and excess material removed with squeeze rolls set at 45 psi, a wet pickup of 105%) was measured resulting in a 9.45%> solids add on to the yarn. Each yarn was separated while wet and dried at 150° F for 50 seconds followed by steam cans set at 275° F to ensure that the fabric is dry and the polymeric matrix cured. Under these conditions, no steam was observed on the cans indicating that the yarn was completely dry before reaching the cans. Treated yarn was wound onto a loom beam and woven on a Picanol air jet loom.
  • Fabric was woven at 71 inches with 60 ends per inch and 60 picks per inch in a plain weave construction to produce a fabric that once dyed, would produce a chambray effect.
  • the chambray effect is exemplified by a plainweave construction less than 6 oz/yd in which only the warp or lengthwise yarn is dyed and the filling yarn remains white.
  • Chambray is generally seen in indigo colors in which the warp yarns have been dyed on an indigo dye range. Colored chambrays are generally not available because of dye minimums, the ability to match color, and the associated expense.
  • Chambrays produced from this invention can be prepared by scouring and bleaching the treated fabric through normal preparation processes. Absorbancy of prepared fabric was less than one second from the time a drop of water touches the fabric surface to when it dissipates. The whiteness of treated and untreated fabric after preparation cannot be differentiated.
  • Example #7 Fabric from Example #7 is scoured on a continuous bleach range by applying a scouring formulation comprising 4% sodium hydroxide solution with EDTA type chelating agents (ethylene diamine tetra-acetic acid) with an alkaline stable surfactant system.
  • the scouring process was completed by steaming the fabric for 10 minutes and rinsing.
  • the fabric was then bleached with a bleaching formulation comprising hydrogen peroxide, sodium hydroxide, an organic stabilizer and a chelating agent for 25 minutes before being washed and dried.
  • a bleaching formulation comprising hydrogen peroxide, sodium hydroxide, an organic stabilizer and a chelating agent for 25 minutes before being washed and dried.
  • Fabric was dyed a navy color on a steam range at 75 yards/min using a formulation consisting of 7.0 g/liter DIANIX® Navy CC and 2.0 g/liter of Black CA-B with a KUSTER® pad with a 75% WPU.
  • the dyes become fixed by passing the fabric through a tight laced steamer at 216° F for 50 seconds and then washing.
  • the fabric produced from this trial was a fabric with chambray appearance and aesthetic produced using 100% cotton yarn. This is achieved by selecting dyes that do not dye cotton so only the coating on the warp yarns become dyed. Efforts to minimize dye staining of the cotton have been achieved through rigorous washing after the steamer.
  • the colorfastness performance and specifically the lightfastness performance is a function of the effectiveness of removing surface dye from the untreated cotton portion of the blend.
  • the initial lightfastness of this trial tested in accordance with AATCC 16-E after 20 hours was 1.5.
  • the same dye formulation on a solid fabric treated sample has an initial lightfastness of 3.5.
  • Additional washing with special soaps enabled the lightfastness performance to improve to between a 2.5 and 3.0, depending on the amount of fugitive dye remaining. As the lightfastness performance improved, so also did the overall washfastness.
  • Prepared fabric was dyed in the lab in a variety of colors including yellows, oranges, blues, violets, tans, khakis, greens, browns, plums, and greys. The significance of this process is:
  • Table #7 is illustrative of the impact of the invention on biodegradable waste products associated with textiles in general, and denim specifically. Processing of Indigo denim garments generally requires the removal of a sizing material generally in the form of starch. This alone represents around 6% of the total weight of the denim. Amylase and cellulase enzymes, cellulose, and dye round out the remaining percentage. The majority of the material removed from the Urethane processed fabric results from cellulose degradation promoted by cellulase enzymes. This results in nearly an 80% reduction of biodegradable solids when compared with normal processing.
  • Example #9 Impact of chemical concentration on the depth of shade and processes to achieve shades when greater dye uptake is desired
  • the standard strength is set to 100% for the lightest swatch. All swatches are compared to that lightest swatch. For all of the dyeings made from fabric that had a single application of chemical, dye yield was fairly linear up to 15 g/1 and an increase from 5.0 g/1 to 15 g/1 resulted in an 80% increase in strength.
  • fabric may be processed by a dual pass method.
  • Example #10 Treatment of fabric with specialized yarns to achieve a vintage appearance after wet processing with pumice stones.
  • a 10.8 oz/yd 98/2 cotton spandex with a greige construction of 80 ends per inch x 46 picks per inch and a finished construction of 93 ends per inch and 48 picks per inch comprising an Amsler Ring Spun 9.75 warp yarn and a 10/1 + 70 denier spandex was prepared by desizing, scouring, bleaching, and mercerizing the fabric.
  • the Amsler spinning technique creates yarn that mirrors much of the inconsistency in yarn prevalent before sophisticated yarn production techniques creating uniform yarn were introduced.
  • the Amsler spinning technique creates slubs in the yarn. This fabric was treated as described in Example #5.
  • Fabric was dyed as described in Example 5 A - Dye Process #1 through a pad steam range through a dye formulation consisting of 10 g/1 of DIANIX® Blue S-BG.
  • the dyed fabric was thoroughly washed, dried, and constructed into denim-like pant legs.
  • the legs were laundered in a Washex 250 lb machine with pumice stones for 50 minutes at 90° F to assess the impact of the stones on the seams and on the slub portion of the Amsler warp yarns.
  • the resulting laundered pant legs demonstrated excellent abrasion at the seams and the thick places on the uneven warp yarns. Negligible coloration of the cotton yarn underneath the abraded high points in the yarn was observed.
  • pant legs were somewhat hairy from the abrasive effect of the pumice stones. Some additional hand sanding was done to demonstrate an even greater contrast between the slubs and the surface of the fabric.
  • a modified technique was used to assess stretch and growth by leaving one of the seams in the pant leg to provide sufficient length in the filling to do the measurements.
  • the laundered garment was tested in accordance with ASTM D-3107. Stretch was 24%o and growth was 5.2%.
  • Example #1 1 - Combination of treated and untreated yarns to create novel selvedge designs for denim and chambrays 16 ends of 20/1 from the yarn treated from Example #7 were taken and combined with 12 ends of 20/1 yarn from fabric that had been desized, scoured, bleached, and mercerized. The yarns were configured across a 12 inch template approximately 0.5 mm apart from one another with 6 treated yarns, followed by 6 untreated yarns, followed by 2 treated yarns, 6 untreated yarns and 6 treated yarns for a total of 28 yarns.
  • a 16/1 Ring spun yarn that had been scoured, bleached, and mercerized was woven in a plainweave
  • Example #5 A - Dye Process #1 The dye formulation consisted of 7.0 g/1 of DIANIX® Blue S-BG. The resulting 2 inch ribbon was about one half inch. Where the untreated warp yarn and white filling yarn were together, two white stripes with a fine dyed stripe resulted. This clearly demonstrated that stripes will be possible to create when fabric is continuously dyed with the appropriate dyes. Some staining on the white yarn was observed; however, a clear contrast was demonstrated between the treated and untreated yarn.
  • Example #12 Treatment of Flame resistant fabrics imparting color to fibers difficult to dye.
  • a 30 inch 4.0 oz/yd" plain weave woven fabric with 24 ends and 24 picks comprised of 625 denier polypropylene yarns was treated by padding a urethane mixture containing 4.1 percent solids through a mangle set at 20 psi. A wet pickup of 60 percent was measured resulting in a solids add on to the substrate of 2.5%. Fabric was dried and cured in a dispatch oven at 180° F for 5 minutes. Fabric was dyed as described in Example #5 A - Dye Process #1 with the following formulation producing a saturated Gray shade.
  • Exemplary embodiments include:
  • a denim- like fabric and garment comprised of cotton or cotton synthetic fiber produced from the application of a dye bonding composition comprised of a mixture of polymers of the urethane, guanidine, and vinyl halogen families with or without additives that sequester dye in which the polymer combination is preferentially dyed over the cellulosic fiber.
  • the preferential dyeing of the polymer combination over the cellulosic fiber produces ring dyed yarns that can subsequently be abraded in garment form.
  • yarn or fabric is dyed prior to, during, or after the fabric is woven with dyes that are not substantive to the cellulosic material.
  • the dyes do not have the propensity of reacting with or sticking to cellulose.
  • selective dyes such as disperse dyes are preferred.
  • acid or reactive dyes of the vinyl sulfone or monochloro hydrazine family that also stain cotton can be used.
  • polyester is blended with cotton in these blends, using a cationic polymer is the preferred approach.
  • the dye bonding composition comprises a urethane emulsion polymer blended with powdered cellulose acetate in a urethane emulsion polymer to powdered cellulose acetate ratio ranging from 90: 10 to 50:50 or a urethane emulsion polymer to powdered cellulose ratio ranging from 90: 10 to 75:25.
  • This blend is contained in an aqueous solution containing 50% solids which is further diluted prior to application to yarn, fabric, or garments.
  • the fabric and garment can be dyed in yarn form, fabric form, or garment form with selective dyes that have preferential attraction to cellulose acetate and/or the urethane polymer.
  • a process by which fiber, yarn, fabric, and garments can be produced through the application of a dye bonding composition comprising at least at least one polymer, wherein the dye bonding composition is preferentially dyed over the cellulosic fiber, producing ring dyed yarns that can subsequently be abraded in garment form is provided.
  • the yarn or fabric is dyed prior to, during, or after the fabric is woven with dyes that are not substantive to the cellulosic material.
  • the dye bonding composition is comprised of a urethane mixed with a cellulose ester
  • selective dyes are preferred.
  • the dye bonding composition is comprised of a urethane combined with guanidine creating a cationic polymer
  • acid or reactive dyes of the vinyl sulfone or monochloro hydrazine family that also stain cotton can be used.
  • polyester is blended with cotton in these blends, using a cationic polymer is the preferred approach.
  • the process includes dyeing cotton knit or woven fabrics varying in weight from 3 to 14 oz/yd with reactive, sulfur, vat, or naphthol dyes to precolor the substrate.
  • the dye bonding composition is applied as described above, and then the cured dye bonding polymer matrix is dyed a different color with selective dyes that affix to the polymer matrix but do not color or stain the dyed color underneath the polymer.
  • the dyeing of the polymer can be done in garment form or fabric form. Fabric can be dyed by jigger, pad/dry/thermosol, pad/steam, and/or jet dyed.
  • the garments produced from this process are abraded during wet processing with various abrasive materials including pumice stones, sand, plastic abrasive balls, etc., resulting in garments that have abrasion at seams, back pockets, hems, and the like that allow the original color to show through creating tonal effects.
  • various abrasive materials including pumice stones, sand, plastic abrasive balls, etc.
  • the process includes applying the dye bonding composition comprised of the urethane polymer material to fibers, yarns, fabrics, or garments which contain materials difficult to dye including DYNEEMA®, KEVLAR®,
  • polybenzamidazole PBI
  • PBO® polybenzamidazole
  • blends thereof providing a film on the surface of the materials to which dye binders can attach.
  • This dye bonding composition can be dyed with selective dyes and the polymeric matrix can further be dyed with pigments and other colorants that adhere through the action of acrylic and other binding polymeric materials.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits et des procédés de coloration en anneau d'un fil et/ou de teinture à la pointe d'un tissu. Le produit et le procédé consistent en l'application d'une composition de liaison de colorant comprenant un polymère à base d'uréthane à un fil textile, un tissu ou un vêtement. La composition de liaison de colorant est conçue de telle sorte que la composition est positionnée sur ou près de la surface du fil, fabriquant une matière colorée en anneau. La composition de liaison de colorant peut être colorée par des colorants sélectifs qui se lient à la composition mais n'ont généralement pas d'affinité pour le substrat textile. Les vêtements créés à l'aide de ce tissu peuvent être soumis à une abrasion pour éliminer le polymère de surface et la couleur dans différents endroits du vêtement, créant un vêtement apparaissant vieilli. Des colorants de différentes classifications peuvent être utilisés pour produire de nouveaux effets de performance et de coloration dans des matières textiles et des vêtements. Ce procédé a été démontré sur un fil (pour une apparence de type denim), des tissus tricotés et tissés et des vêtements.
EP13832686.3A 2012-08-25 2013-08-23 Matières traitées au moyen d'un polymère par coloration en anneau Withdrawn EP2888400A4 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US201261693263P 2012-08-25 2012-08-25
PCT/US2013/056371 WO2014035817A1 (fr) 2012-08-25 2013-08-23 Matières traitées au moyen d'un polymère par coloration en anneau

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2888400A1 true EP2888400A1 (fr) 2015-07-01
EP2888400A4 EP2888400A4 (fr) 2016-06-22

Family

ID=50146713

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP13832686.3A Withdrawn EP2888400A4 (fr) 2012-08-25 2013-08-23 Matières traitées au moyen d'un polymère par coloration en anneau

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20140053348A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2888400A4 (fr)
CN (1) CN104903510A (fr)
CA (1) CA2919947A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2014035817A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2428765B1 (es) * 2013-10-04 2014-03-27 Tejidos Royo S.L. Tejido Denim con características ignífugas y proceso de tintura de la urdimbre con colorante azul índigo
US20150275423A1 (en) * 2014-04-01 2015-10-01 Randolph L. Finley Ring dyed materials and method of making the same
WO2016086172A1 (fr) * 2014-11-25 2016-06-02 Cornell University Habillement thermochromique permettant de détecter l'épuisement physique et son procédé de préparation
US9718944B2 (en) 2015-04-02 2017-08-01 Cnh Industrial Canada, Ltd. Method of coloring biocomposite materials
US9943880B2 (en) * 2016-02-11 2018-04-17 Yodle Ventures Llc Color customization of articles
CN108221136A (zh) * 2017-12-16 2018-06-29 浙江雅雪染整有限公司 底面异色单面绒染色工艺
CN108589266B (zh) * 2018-04-24 2021-02-12 陕西科技大学 纳米金属颗粒/金属有机框架复合抗菌纤维素纤维的制备方法
CN109778571A (zh) * 2019-01-09 2019-05-21 安徽万方织染有限公司 涤纶布高效平网印花工艺
US20210071358A1 (en) * 2019-09-09 2021-03-11 Revolaze, LLC Scouring Process for Ring Dyed Denim Fabric and Material Produced Thereof
US11591748B2 (en) 2020-01-14 2023-02-28 Shadow Works, Llc Heat treated multilayer knitted textile of liquid crystal polymer fibers and modified polyacrylonitrile fibers, and process for making same
US11946173B2 (en) * 2020-05-20 2024-04-02 Glen Raven, Inc. Yarns and fabrics including modacrylic fibers

Family Cites Families (17)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2651505A1 (de) * 1976-11-11 1978-05-24 Bayer Ag Kationische elektrolytstabile dispersionen
US4421826A (en) * 1980-05-08 1983-12-20 W. R. Grace & Co. Polyurethane polymer amine salt as a dyeing aid, particularly for polyolefin fibers
BE905631A (fr) * 1986-03-28 1987-02-16 Golden Trade Srl Procede pour decolorer de maniere non uniforme des tissus ou des vetements et produit decolore par ce procede.
IT1198254B (it) * 1986-12-24 1988-12-21 Raffineria Olii Lubirificanti Procedimento per migliorare la tingibilita' di manufatti tessili tessuti o non tessuti
US5221288A (en) * 1990-10-09 1993-06-22 Matsui Shikiso Chemical Co., Ltd. Thermochromic dyeing method and cellulose product dyed thereby
MX9101406A (es) * 1990-10-09 1994-05-31 Matsui Shikiso Kagaku Kogyosho Metodo para teñir y producto teñido.
US5380787A (en) * 1992-08-24 1995-01-10 Padico Co., Ltd. Paint resembling stained glass
US5700867A (en) * 1993-10-01 1997-12-23 Toyo Ink Manufacturing Co., Ltd. Aqueous dispersion of an aqueous hydrazine-terminated polyurethane
US5514187A (en) * 1994-09-20 1996-05-07 Burlington Industries, Inc. Reduced indigo dye penetration
US20050288430A1 (en) * 2004-06-25 2005-12-29 Gindin Lyubov K Polyurethane dispersions with high acid content
DE602005020824D1 (de) * 2004-10-26 2010-06-02 Lubrizol Advanced Mat Inc Wassergetragene dispersionen öl-modifizierter urethanpolymere
WO2007108905A1 (fr) * 2006-03-17 2007-09-27 3M Innovative Properties Company Composition liquide permettant de produire un film de protection temporaire amovible, à base de dispersions aqueuses de polyurétane
CN101255296B (zh) * 2007-03-01 2011-02-02 洋紫荆油墨(中山)有限公司 聚氨酯树脂复合油墨及其制造方法
JP4382875B2 (ja) * 2007-06-20 2009-12-16 南姜エフニカ株式会社 難燃化処理用水性液
EP2576714B1 (fr) * 2010-06-02 2014-09-24 Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Pellicules, papiers et tissus réceptifs aux encres/aux colorants
CN101914324B (zh) * 2010-08-26 2012-10-10 鲁继烈 一种改性聚氨酯树脂乳液染料墨水及其应用
CN102162195B (zh) * 2011-01-28 2013-02-20 达利(中国)有限公司 易洗柯根纱织物染整工艺

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CA2919947A1 (fr) 2014-03-06
US20140053348A1 (en) 2014-02-27
CN104903510A (zh) 2015-09-09
EP2888400A4 (fr) 2016-06-22
WO2014035817A1 (fr) 2014-03-06

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US20140053348A1 (en) Ring dyed polymer treated materials and method of making same
US20180105978A1 (en) Ring dyed materials and method of making the same
EP3494254B1 (fr) Tissus et vêtements sans repassage, et leur procédé de finition
CN102535194A (zh) 一种织物的染料染色方法
US20240125046A1 (en) Fabric Response Characteristics for Laser Finishing
US20120246842A1 (en) Disperse dyeing of textile fibers
US20020124323A1 (en) Process for patterning textile materials and fabrics made therefrom
Yang et al. Durability of Some Antibacterial Treatments to Repeated Home Launderings.
US20130219635A1 (en) Production of dyed cotton fibers
AU747983B2 (en) Method for treating fibrous cellulosic materials
US6949126B2 (en) Production of dyed lyocell garments
CN111601923B (zh) 使用非甲醛技术改进棉织物的耐久定形性质的平衡
Yang et al. Cotton fabric inkjet printing with acid dyes
JP7418942B2 (ja) 耐塩素堅牢性布帛及びその製造方法
WO2013148295A2 (fr) Teinture dispersée de fibres textiles
US7347878B2 (en) Method of achieving a permanent “stone-wash” effect on textile fibre materials
Mezarciöz et al. An evaluation of the properties of denim dyed with sulphur dyeing by elimination of pre‐treatment processes
Saravanan et al. Comprehensive View on Garment Dyeing and Finishing
JP7211812B2 (ja) カチオン染着繊維、カチオン可染皮革様シート、カチオン染着皮革様シート、カチオン染着繊維の製造方法及びカチオン染着皮革様シートの製造方法
JP6285903B2 (ja) 繊維製品の製造方法
Malik et al. Simultaneous dyeing and finishing of cotton fabric using reactive dyes and citric acid
EP1723280B1 (fr) Procede de teinte permanente de textiles a base de cellulose
Aspland et al. The coloration and finishing of nonwoven fabrics
Hussain Textile Processing
KR20240158596A (ko) 원단의 염색방법

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 20150325

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR

AX Request for extension of the european patent

Extension state: BA ME

DAX Request for extension of the european patent (deleted)
RA4 Supplementary search report drawn up and despatched (corrected)

Effective date: 20160520

RIC1 Information provided on ipc code assigned before grant

Ipc: D06P 1/52 20060101AFI20160513BHEP

Ipc: D06P 5/00 20060101ALI20160513BHEP

Ipc: D06P 7/00 20060101ALI20160513BHEP

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: REQUEST FOR EXAMINATION WAS MADE

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION IS DEEMED TO BE WITHDRAWN

18D Application deemed to be withdrawn

Effective date: 20161220