EP2453046B1

EP2453046B1 - Knitwear with sleeves and body, and knitting method for same

Info

Publication number: EP2453046B1
Application number: EP10797005.5A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Manabu Yui; Yoshifumi Noborio
Original assignee: Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
Current assignee: Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
Priority date: 2009-07-09
Filing date: 2010-06-21
Publication date: 2015-09-16
Anticipated expiration: 2030-06-21
Also published as: WO2011004694A1; CN102471961A; CN102471961B; JPWO2011004694A1; JP5567565B2; EP2453046A4; EP2453046A1

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to knitwear with sleeves and a body having an armhole capable of obtaining the figure-hugging shape when knitting knitwear with a flat knitting machine, and a knitting method of the same.

BACKGROUND ART

When knitting seamless knitwear with a flat knitting machine, knitting of joining and integrating three tubes, body and both sleeves, is carried out for the knitwear with sleeves. Patent Document 1 discloses a knitting method of a sweater with a set-in sleeve, or the like of knitting each of the body and both sleeves to a tubular shape from the hem to the underarm, then joining the body and the sleeves while knitting to form one tubular body, and gradually reducing the diameter of the tubular body while further knitting to a tubular shape. When reducing the tubular diameter, a fashion line is produced at an arbitrary position with the overlapping of the stitches to obtain a tubular knitted fabric excelling in fashionability.

PRIOR ART DOCUMENT

PATENT DOCUMENT

[Patent Document 1] Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2-229248

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

PROBLEMS TO BE SOLVED BY THE INVENTION

As also shown in FIG. 1 of Patent Document 1, the armhole of the knitwear with a set-in sleeve has a vertical shape up to the shoulder since the knitting width of the body does not increase nor decrease after joining the sleeves and the body at the side and then carrying out narrowing of the body over a few times. In view of the silhouette, the wear comfort, and the like when the knitwear is worn, the knitting width of the body is gradually narrowed from the side of the body and the peripheral length of the armhole is increased to reduce the stretching of the knitted fabric, for example. However, the shoulder width also narrows therewith, and the number of stitches or the number of times to carry out narrowing sometimes need to be taken into consideration depending on the design and the like. The present invention has been improved from Patent Document 1, and aims at providing a knitting method of widening the body and increasing the peripheral length without narrowing the shoulder width with the armhole formed to a substantially arcuate shape to obtain a figure-hugging shape using a flat knitting machine and carrying out efficient widening in this case, and knitwear obtained by the method.

MEANS FOR SOLVING THE PROBLEMS

The present invention is directed to a knitting method of knitwear according to claim 1 and its preferred embodiment according to claim 2.
when narrowing the sleeve.
A knitwear of the present invention is defined in claim 3.
A preferred embodiment of the knitwear of the present invention is defined in claim 4.

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION

In the present invention, the peripheral length of the armhole is increased and a substantially arcuate armhole is obtained by both the narrowing of the body in the course direction at the underarm and the widening of the body in the course direction at the upper side of the armhole, so that a figure-hugging shape can be formed without reducing the shoulder width.
In the present invention, the step of forming a new stitch to fill the hole becomes unnecessary since the filling of the hole in widening is carried out by applying the stitch of the sleeve, and hence a knitting method of a widening stitch having satisfactory knitting efficiency is achieved.
In the knitwear obtained by the present invention, the armhole may be formed to a substantially arcuate shape and the peripheral length can be increased by widening in the course direction at the armhole, and hence the shoulder width can be widened and a figure-hugging shape can be obtained.
Furthermore, the knitwear obtained by the present invention has the stitches to become the double stitches reduced at the armhole and the thickness of the joining site reduced. In regards to filling the hole of the widening stitch, the appearance same as other stitches can be realized since a pick up stitch is not provided.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a view showing a front body side of a sweater 1 according to an embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a knitting diagram at a widening portion 6R of an armhole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 according to the embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a simplified diagram showing a state of a needle bed holding stitches at the widening portion 6R of the armhole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 according to the embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a simplified diagram showing a state of a needle bed holding stitches when independently carrying out narrowing of a right sleeve 3 and widening of a front body 2 at the armhole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1.
FIG. 5 is a simplified diagram showing a state of the needle bed holding the stitches for a variant of FIG. 2 at the widening portion 6R of the armhole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 according to the embodiment of the present invention.

MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

A knitting method of an armhole 5 of a sweater 1 will be hereinafter described as an embodiment of the present invention. With respect to the armhole 5, the armhole formed on a right side of a front body 2 is an armhole 5R and the armhole formed on a left side is an armhole 5L, and with respect to a widening portion 6 corresponding to each armhole, a right side is a widening portion 6R and a left side is a widening portion 6L. In the following description, a flat-knitting machine used in the knitting is a two-bed flat knitting machine having a pair of front and back needle beds, where a back needle bed is capable of being racked with respect to the front needle bed. A knitting diagram has fewer number of needles than the actual knitting for the sake of convenience of the explanation. A known four-bed flat knitting machine may be used. In this case, an empty needle used for transfer and the like is not necessary.

[Embodiment]

FIG. 1 is a view showing a front body side in the sweater 1. The V-necked set-in type sweater 1 knitted in the present embodiment includes a right sleeve 3 and a left sleeve 4 on both sides of a front body 2, which are joined at an armhole 5 from the underarm to the line of the shoulder 7. Furthermore, the sweater 1 has a neck hole 8 due to the V-neck, where the front body 2 is branched to the left and the right at the bottom of the neck hole 8. In a narrowing portion 9 positioned near the side, the knitting width of the front body 2 is reduced and the double stitches become a fashion mark. In the sweater 1, the shapes of the left and right armholes 5R, 5L is substantially arcuate in accordance with the left and right widening portions 6L, 6R, and the peripheral length of the armhole 5 is increased. The widening portion 6 is formed on the upper part side of the armhole 5 on the shoulder 7 side than the position where the front body 2 is branched, and is widened in the course section at the upper part side of the armhole 5. The shoulder width can be widened without influencing the body width by widening the widening portion 6.
The knitting of the front body 2 and the left and right sleeves 3, 4 is respectively started from the hem and the cuff up to the widening portion 6 of the armhole 5, which is the same as the knitting method of Patent Document 1, and hence the description related to the knitting up to the widening portion 6 will be omitted. The sweater 1 is further formed to a tubular shape, but since the knitting method is symmetric with respect to the front and back as well as the left and right in the joining of the left and right armholes 5R, 5L of the front and back bodies and the left and right sleeves 3, 4, the knitting method in the right armhole 5R of the front body 2 will be described. The knitted fabric is entirely knitted with plain stitches.
FIG. 2 is a knitting diagram at the widening portion 6R of the armhole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 as the embodiment of the present invention. Where in the figures, the black circle indicates a newly formed stitch, a white circle indicates an old stitch held on a knitting needle, a double circuit indicates double stitches, a white triangle indicates a stitch moved to an empty needle when forming a widening stitch, and an arrow indicates transfer. Furthermore, FB indicates a front needle bed, BB indicates a back needle bed, capital letters A to T indicate knitting needles of the FB, small letters a to t indicate knitting needles of the BB, and S + number indicates a knitting step. The explanation mentioned above is also applied to FIG. 3 and FIG. 5 to be described later.
The knitting steps S1 to S12 will be described below. In S1, the front body 2 and the right sleeve 3 are knitted with the FB. The stitches are formed with the knitting needles A, C, E, G showing the right sleeve 3 and the knitting needles I, K, M, O, Q, S showing the front body 2. In S2, the stitches are formed with the knitting needles S to A of the FB in an opposite direction to the knitting direction of S1, but miss knitting is carried out with only the knitting needle G. The miss knitting with the knitting needle G can facilitate transfer steps carried out in S3 to S5. Because the miss knitting can separate the connection of the stitches retained on the knitting needle G and the knitting needle I in a crossed state. In S2 to substitute miss knitting by knit knitting with the knitting needle G may be possible.
In S3, the stitches of the knitting needles A, C, E, G, I of the FB are transferred to the knitting needles a, c, e, g, i of the BB. The knitting needles A, C, E, G are all the stitches of the right sleeve 3, and the knitting needle I is the stitch of one end of the front body 2 adjacent to the relevant stitch. In S4, the BB is racked to the left by two pitches (needles), and the stitch of the knitting needle i of the BB is transferred to the knitting needle G. The stitch held by the knitting needle I of the FB moved in the direction of the right sleeve 3 so that the knitting needle I located within the knitting width of the front body 2 become an empty needle. The knitting width of the front body 2 is increased by one stitch by moving the stitch held on the knitting needle I in the direction of the right sleeve 3.
In S5, the BB is racked to the right by four pitches from the state of S4, and the stitches of the knitting needles a, c, e, g of the BB are transferred to the knitting needles C, E, G, I of the FB. The four stitches of the knitting needles A, C, E, G of the FB which are the stitches of the right sleeve 3 in S1 are reduced to the two stitches of the knitting needles C, E in S5. The reduced two stitches are moved to the knitting needles G, I, so that the narrowing of the right sleeve 3 and the widening of the front body 2 are simultaneously completed. The knitting needle G of the FB becomes double stitches, and the knitting needle I, which is the empty needle in S4, does not become double stitches. The stitch held on the knitting needle I is not obtained by forming a new stitch but is obtained by applying the reduced stitch of the sleeve. The double stitches is not formed since the stitch is moved to the empty needle, so that the stitches of providing the double stitches are reduced through the use of the empty needle. Therefore, the thickness at the joining site is reduced. The stitches held on the two knitting needles G, I have the position of the stitches interchanged from the knitting of S2. The stitches become large and easily stand out if a yarn hooked portion is formed on the empty needle, but the space between the adjacent stitches is not widened as the stitches are interchanged and a beautiful finish is realized without changing the appearance of the stitches in the present embodiment.
In S6, the BB is racked to the left by two pitches from the state of S5, and the stitches are formed with the knitting needles C to S of the FB. In S7, the stitches are formed with the knitting needles S to C of the FB in the direction opposite to the knitting direction of S6, where the miss knitting is carried out on only the knitting needle G with the same purpose as in S2. In S8, the stitches of the knitting needles C, E, G of the FB are respectively transferred to the knitting needles c, e, g of the BB. The knitting needles C, E are all the stitches of the right sleeve 3, and the knitting needle G is the stitch of one end of the front body 2 adjacent to the relevant stitch. In S9, the BB is racked to the left by two pitches, and the stitch of the knitting needle g of the BB is transferred to the knitting needle E. The knitting needle G of the FB is an empty needle, and the knitting width of the front body 2 is increased by one stitch by moving the stitch held on the knitting needle G in the direction of the right sleeve 3. In S10, the BB is racked to the right by four pitches from the state of S9, and the stitches of the knitting needles c, e of the BB are transferred to the knitting needles E, G of the FB. At the time of S7, the two stitches of the knitting needles C, E of the FB which are the stitches of the right sleeve 3 are reduced to disappear in this step, where the reduced two stitches are moved to the knitting needles E, G and the narrowing of the right sleeve 3 and the widening of the front body 2 are simultaneously completed.
According to S10, the stitch of the knitting needle E of the FB becomes the double stitches, and the knitting needle G, which is the empty needle in S9, does not become double stitches. The stitch held on the knitting needle G is not obtained by forming a new stitch but is obtained by applying the reduced stitch of the sleeve. In S11, the BB is racked to the left by two pitches from the state of S10, and the stitches are formed with the knitting needles E to S of the FB. In S12, the stitches are formed with the knitting needles S to E of the FB in the direction opposite to the knitting direction of S11. Comparing S1 and S12 in the series of steps, four stitches of the right sleeve 3 are gone and the stitches of the front body 2 are widened by two stitches to become eight stitches, where the narrowing of the sleeve by two stitches is carried out twice and the widening of the body by one stitch is carried out twice.
The characteristic portion of the present invention in the series of steps of FIG. 2 will be shown in a simplified manner in FIG. 3. The display of the step is common with FIG. 2, and the same step number indicates that the content is the same. FIG. 3 is a simplified diagram showing a state of the needle bed holding the stitches at the widening portion 6R of the armhole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 according to the embodiment of the present invention. In forming the armhole 5, the knitting of the stitches of the right side of the front body 2 and the right sleeve 3 is shown in S1, and a state after widening the front body 2 and narrowing the right sleeve 3 is shown in S5. The one stitch at the end of the front body 2 moved by one stitch for the widening process of the front body 2 and the two stitches narrowed for the narrowing process of the right sleeve 3 are combined and processed on the same knitting course. The stitch is moved to the knitting needle I, which is the empty needle, to form the widening stitch, and the double stitches is formed on the adjacent knitting needle G. With the formation of the widening portion 6R on the upper side of the armhole 5R, the front body 2 is widened in the course direction and the peripheral length of the armhole 5R is increased. The armhole 5R of a substantially arcuate shape is obtained with the narrowing portion 9 at near the side, so that a figure-hugging shape can be formed without reducing the shoulder width.
FIG. 4 is a simplified diagram showing a state of the needle bed holding the stitches when independently carrying out the narrowing of the sleeve and the widening of the body at the armhole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1. A method of independently carrying out the narrowing process of the right sleeve 3 and the widening process of the front body 2 is shown. Among S1 to S3 showing each step, S1 is the same as S1 of FIG. 3, but a step (widening of front body 2) of hole filling of the knitting needle I after making the knitting needle I of S2 an empty needle and increasing the knitting width, and a step (narrowing of right sleeve 3) of forming two double stitches of S3 differ from S2 of FIG. 3. In this case, there are a number of methods for the hole filling of the knitting needle I in S2 of FIG. 4, and one embodiment thereof is shown. In the knitting of S1, a step of forming new stitches on the knitting needles S to I, and newly supplying a yarn in the opposite direction to form a yarn hooked portion on the knitting needle i is added, and new stitches are formed on the remaining knitting needles G to A. An addition of one step of moving the yarn hooked portion to the knitting needle I is required, where an addition of another further knitting step may be required depending on the number of cam systems of the flat knitting machine used for the knitting. In S3, the two stitches when narrowing the right sleeve 3 form the double stitches on the front body 2 irrespective of the widening of the front body 2 in S2. According to this knitting method, the narrowing process of the right sleeve 3 and the widening process of the front body 2 are respectively carried out independently, so that the position and the number of times to carry out the process can be freely set and the shape of the armhole 5R can be finely set.
In the knitting shown in FIG. 3, on the other hand, the narrowing process of the right sleeve 3 and the widening process of the front body 2 are simultaneously carried out so as to cancel each other. The narrowing process of the right sleeve 3 and the widening process of the front body 2 can be carried out with fewer steps compared to the knitting of FIG. 4, and hence the knitting efficiency is satisfactory. Furthermore, the widening using a yarn hooked portion is not necessary since the hole can be filled by the interchanging of stitches, and the stitches obtained in the knitting same as in the formation of other stitches can be applied so that the same appearance can be realized.
FIG. 5 is a simplified diagram showing a state of the needle bed holding the stitches for a variant of FIG. 2 at the widening portion 6R of the armhole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1. In FIG. 2, description has been made on combining the number of stitches of the narrowing process of the sleeve and the number of stitches of the widening process of the body and applying on the same knitting course, but such a combination exists in great numbers. FIGS. 5(a) and 5(b) show one example of a combination in which the number of stitches of narrowing and the number of stitches of widening are changed. X and Y shown in the figures indicate the stitches carrying out the intersection.
As shown in FIG. 5(a), after forming a new stitch with the stitches of the knitting needles A to S in S1, the widening in a case where the widening stitch of the front body 2 shown in S2 is moved by one stitch of the knitting needle I at the end and the narrowing of the right sleeve shown in S3 of three stitches are combined so that double stitches are formed at the position of the knitting needle G and the knitting needle K of the front body 2 that are on both sides of an empty needle. Among the three stitches reduced in the right sleeve 3, two stitches become double stitches and one stitch is used to fill the hole. In such knitting, the stitches to become the double stitches become the fashion line, and the stitches are connected in the wale direction as the boundary of the front body 2 and the right sleeve 3 since the stitches are intersected at the end of the body. Furthermore, as shown in FIG. 5(b), after forming a new stitch with the stitches of the knitting needles A to S in S1, widening in which the widening stitch of the front body 2 shown in S2 is moved by two stitches of the knitting needle I and the knitting needle K at the end is carried out. Furthermore, two empty needles are provided on the knitting needle I and the knitting needle K with the movement of four pitches, and the narrowing of the right sleeve shown in S3 is combined with the narrowing of four stitches. The intersection of stitches formed when the positions of the stitches are interchanged include two stitches for X and two stitches for Y, and can be used as a 2 x 2 intersecting pattern.
The formation of the widening stitch in the present embodiment is carried out with the sleeve and the body connected in the course direction, but not limited thereto, a region of the body or the sleeve may be knitted by a shuttle knitting to create a difference in the number of stitches in the wale direction of the body and the sleeve to change the number of knitting courses of the sleeve and the stitches thus obtaining a state in which the sleeve and the body are not connected in the course direction, where the knitting method of the present invention can also be applied to such a case. As the sleeve and the body are not directly connected, knitting is facilitated, for example, when the amount of racking in transfer is large.

DESCRIPTION OF REFERENCE NUMERALS

1: sweater
2: front body
3: right sleeve
5: armhole
6: widening portion

Claims

A knitting method of knitwear (1) including sleeves (3, 4) and a body (2) using a flat knitting machine having at least a front and a back needle bed, the knitting method being characterized by comprising the steps of:
moving stitches of the sleeve (3,4) and at least one stitch at an end of the body (2) adjacent to the stitches of the sleeve (3,4) in a sleeve direction thereby providing an empty needle (1) within a knitting width of the body (2) to increase a knitting width of the body (2);

carrying out hole filling of the empty needle (1); and

providing at least one double stitch by at least one stitch near an end of the sleeve (3,4) adj acent to the stitches of the body (2) and the at least one stitch at the end of the body (2) when narrowing the sleeve.
The knitting method of knitwear(1) including the sleeves(3,4) and the body (2) according to claim 1, characterized in that the hole filling of the empty needle (1) is carried out with the stitch of the sleeve (3,4) adj acent to the at least one stitch of the body (2)when narrowing the sleeve(3,4).
Knitwear(1) including sleeves(3,4) and a body(2) in which an armhole(5) is formed by joining the sleeves(3,4) and the body (2) using a flat knitting machine, characterized in that in the armhole (5), the stitches of the sleeve (3,4) and at least one stitch at an end of the body (2) adjacent to the stitches of the sleeve (3,4) are moved in a sleeve direction whereby an empty needle (1) is provided within a knitting width of the body (2) to increase a knitting width of the body (2), hole filling of the empty needle (1) is carried out, and at least one stitch near an end of the sleeve (3,4) adjacent to the stitches of the body (2) and the at least one stitch at the end of the body (2) when narrowing the sleeve (3,4) by the joining of the body(2) and the sleeve(3,4) become at least one double stitch.
The knitwear(1) including the sleeves(3,4) and the body (2) according to claim 3, characterized in that the stitch of the sleeve (3,4) adjacent to the at least one stitch of the body (2) is applied to the hole filling of the empty needle (1), such that the positions of the at least one stitch of the body (2) and the stitch of the sleeve (3,4) are interchanged.