EP1583514A2 - Increasing skin cell renewal with water-soluble vitamin e - Google Patents
Increasing skin cell renewal with water-soluble vitamin eInfo
- Publication number
- EP1583514A2 EP1583514A2 EP03814700A EP03814700A EP1583514A2 EP 1583514 A2 EP1583514 A2 EP 1583514A2 EP 03814700 A EP03814700 A EP 03814700A EP 03814700 A EP03814700 A EP 03814700A EP 1583514 A2 EP1583514 A2 EP 1583514A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- water
- skin
- vitamin
- soluble vitamin
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
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- 239000001272 nitrous oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037311 normal skin Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940049964 oleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000000056 organ Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 1
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003038 phytosphingosines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000010773 plant oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002265 prevention Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001294 propane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003380 propellant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000630 rising effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229930195734 saturated hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000009759 skin aging Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- OTKJDMGTUTTYMP-ZWKOTPCHSA-N sphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO OTKJDMGTUTTYMP-ZWKOTPCHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003408 sphingolipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003410 sphingosines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000638 stimulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000012049 topical pharmaceutical composition Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930195735 unsaturated hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000004034 viscosity adjusting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000004835 α-tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002076 α-tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
Definitions
- Human skin may be classified into two major parts: the outer layer
- the dermis contains, among other things, blood vessels, nerves, collagen, elastin, and fibroblast cells, which
- the epidermis may be considered to consist of two major zones, an inner or malpighian layer, and an outer or homy layer.
- a living tissue may be further divided into basal, spinous, and granular
- the outer horny layer a dead tissue, is also referred to as stratum
- corneocytes dead cells in the stratum corneum. This process of forming corneocytes is called keratinization.
- the stratum corneum consists of approximately 14 layers of dead cells and is the skin tissue that one feels when
- compositions that protects the living portion of the skin from damage.
- a composition is applied that increases the natural exfoliation rate (cell renewal rate) of the skin, thus increasing the rate at which the outer layers of dead cells (the stratum corneum)
- One conventional method of protecting the living skin cells from oxidative damage is by applying a composition containing ⁇ -Tocopherol
- Vitamin E is oil-soluble and can improve the appearance of the skin through
- Nicotinate, and Tocopherol can also serve to protect living skin cells from oxidative attack.
- Naturally occurring Vitamin E and its oil-soluble derivatives are believed to improve the appearance of skin by reducing oxidative
- VEP DL- ⁇ -Tocopheryl Phosphate
- the derivative may be prepared by reacting Vitamin E with sodium phosphate.
- the '867 patent discloses how VEP can improve the health of animals when administered internally.
- WO 93/15731 discloses how internally administering phosphate derivitized Vitamin E to mice can prevent liver damage. Unlike prior oil-soluble Vitamin E
- VEP is soluble in water.
- Exfoliating acids are known to increase the rate of natural exfoliation. Exfoliating acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, acetic acid, pyruvic
- hydroxycarboxylic acids including hydroxycarboxylic acids, is that they are most effective at low pH, about
- acidic exfoliating agents are believed to deprotonate at a pH of about 3.8, thus losing their beneficial activity at higher pH due to a lack of bioavailability.
- composition be limited by the exfoliation ability of the acid, but by how often the composition can be applied to the skin without undue irritation.
- exfoliating acids which include hydroxycarboxylic acids, demonstrate a significant stimulation of cell renewal coupled with an undesirable level of skin irritation.
- exfoliating acids which include hydroxycarboxylic acids
- pH of the acidic composition is increased to approach neutral (7.0), cell renewal,
- exfoliation without the skin irritation associated with exfoliating acids. It would be most desirable to provide for enhanced skin exfoliation at a pH more closely approaching neutral to reduce skin irritation.
- the present compositions provide enhanced skin exfoliation at a higher pH and with lower irritation than conventional exfoliating acids, thus overcoming a significant disadvantage of acidic exfoliants.
- the present invention provides a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use comprising a water-soluble
- Vitamin E derivative and a carrier that includes water.
- the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is preferably a water-soluble salt of Vitamin E and is in the water
- a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is present in the composition in an amount effective to increase the rate of natural skin
- the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative enhances the rate of
- compositions including a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative present in a therapeutically effective amount in a topically acceptable carrier for application to human skin to increase the natural rate of skin exfoliation.
- the composition contains from about 0.05% to about 30% of a water-soluble Vitamin
- E derivative and has a pH in the range from about 4.5 to 9.
- Another aspect of the present invention includes a method of increasing the rate of skin exfoliation comprising topically applying a cosmetic composition containing an amount of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative effective to enhance the rate of skin cell exfoliation beyond the naturally occurring rate of skin cell exfoliation.
- the method includes topically applying to the skin a composition comprising a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative in an amount and for a period of time sufficient to increase the rate of
- the present invention relates to compositions that enhance the rate
- compositions are believed to act by increasing the exfoliation or "release" of dead cells, not by repairing or protecting living skin cells from damage, including oxidative damage from radicals and peroxides.
- present compositions increase the rate at which dead keratinizing cells are
- the visible layer of the skin may be
- the present invention relates to a composition containing a skin benefiting agent that includes a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative that stimulates cell renewal, but does not unduly irritate at the desired
- the present invention includes a composition including sodium phosphate derivatized Vitamin E (VEP).
- VEP sodium phosphate derivatized Vitamin E
- present invention also relates to a method of increasing the rate of skin-cell
- composition comprises an effective amount of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative and a
- a composition acceptable for topical application to the skin comprises a water-
- the water-soluble Vitamin E salts useful in the present invention include all enantiomers whether singly or in combination.
- preferable salts include phosphates and sulfates, with phosphate salts being presently preferred.
- the cation portion of the salt includes, but is not
- alkali and alkaline earth metals such as sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium.
- the cations can be used alone or in a mixture of two or more.
- Sodium is a preferred cation for the salt.
- Suitable water-soluble Vitamin E derivatives may include, for example,
- the Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates may be thought of as phosphate salts of Vitamin E and its derivatives having beta-alanine functionality.
- Preferred water-soluble Vitamin E derivatives include Sodium Vitamin E Phosphate (VEP), Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid Tocopheryl Phosphate, and Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates.
- VEP Sodium Vitamin E Phosphate
- Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid Tocopheryl Phosphate Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid Tocopheryl Phosphate
- Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates.
- compositions according to the present invention at least one of the aforementioned water-soluble Vitamin E salts may be mixed with
- a pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable carrier that includes water.
- a pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable carrier that includes water.
- from about 0.05% to about 30% of the composition is the water- soluble Vitamin E derivative, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%.
- compositions including from about 0.4% to about 5% of the water- soluble Vitamin E derivative is especially preferred. Unless stated otherwise, all
- the carrier is capable of assisting in maintaining the desired pH of the composition.
- the pH values for the compositions of the present invention are from about 4.5 to about 9, preferably from 4.8 to 8.2, and
- a pH of 5 is an order of magnitude less acidic than a pH of 4.
- the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is not combined to form a composition containing exfoliating acids, squalene, or squalane.
- squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon formed by reduction of squalene
- the composition does not include an exfoliating acid at a concentration sufficient to provide an increase in exfoliation rate. In another aspect, the composition does not include an exfoliating acid at a concentration sufficient to provide an increase in exfoliation rate. In another aspect, the composition does
- composition does not contain greater than 2% of an exfoliating acid.
- composition does not contain an exfoliating acid having a bioavailability of 4% or
- compositions of the present invention may be formulated as a
- the water-based composition contains oil, the water-soluble Vitamin E salt is substantially in
- the cosmetically acceptable carrier includes water and preferably
- the composition acts as a dilutant, dispersant, or carrier for other cosmetic ingredients present in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.
- the composition includes from 5 to 98% water and more preferably from 80 to 98% water.
- compositions of the present invention may also contain various conventional cosmetic ingredients, so long as they do not detrimentally affect the desired enhancement of skin exfoliation or composition pH.
- Suitable cosmetic ingredients so long as they do not detrimentally affect the desired enhancement of skin exfoliation or composition pH.
- ingredients can include liquid or solid emollients, organic or inorganic
- sunscreens preservatives, buffers, solvents, humectants, viscosity modifiers, alcohols, fats, oils, surfactants, fatty acids, silicone oils, moisturizers, emulsifiers,
- compositions may also include propellants such as propane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide,
- emollients refer to materials used for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for the protection of the skin. Wide
- compositions can optionally include inorganic and organic sunscreens as cosmetic ingredients that provide protection from the harmful
- compositions include from 0.1 to 10% and more preferably from 1 to 5% of an organic sunscreen.
- organic sunscreens include those set out in
- compositions may also contain an inorganic compound
- sunscreen which includes, but is not limited to titanium dioxide; zinc oxide, having an average particle size of from 1 to 300 nm; iron oxide, having an
- silica such as fumed silica, having an average particle size of from 1 to 100 nm.
- titanium dioxide that can be incorporated in the composition is from 1 to 25%, preferably from 2 to 10%, and ideally from 3 to 7%.
- anti-irritant agents into the claimed compositions.
- the natural anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritant agents are preferred.
- licorice and its extracts dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, oat and oat extracts, candelilla wax, alpha bisabolol,
- Additional skin benefit agents such as ceramides, glycoceramides, pseudoceramides, sphingolipids such as sphingomyelins, cerebrosides,
- sulphatides and ganglioside, sphingosines, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosines, and phospholipids, may also be incorporated into the claimed compositions, either separately or in mixtures.
- Fatty acids may also be
- glycoceramides include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,589,178,
- the pseudoceramides include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,198,210; 5,206,020; and 5,415,855.
- the rate of natural skin exfoliation may be increased by topical application to the skin of the claimed compositions.
- the present invention encompasses a
- composition comprising a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative (salt) in an amount and for a period of time sufficient to increase the
- Vitamin E salt is N-(2-a rate of natural skin exfoliation.
- Vitamin E salt is N-(2-a rate of natural skin exfoliation.
- the topical composition is applied on at least a daily
- compositions of the present invention may be applied on a more regular basis with substantially reduced irritation to the skin. While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, the
- compositions By applying the present compositions on a routine basis to the skin, within a few days, a user may notice improved skin texture and smoothness with reduced
- Table 3 sets forth a comparative study between the cell-renewal rates of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative (VEP, a sodium-phosphate salt)
- VEP water-soluble Vitamin E derivative
- beneficial cell-renewal rates are achieved at surprisingly low sting
- exfoliating acids such as lactic acid, salicylic acid, and the alpha and beta hydroxycarboxylic acids, are commonly thought of
- compositions of the present invention can provide beneficial exfoliation rates above pH 4.5.
- desirable cell renewal rates are seen at pH of about 5.6 and higher, and at pH values of about 7.2 and higher. This is quite surprising because conventional exfoliating
- compositions of the present invention provide beneficial exfoliation above pH 4.5
- VEP is somewhat slower than Lactic Acid at cell-renewal, it is at least 4.5 times less irritating to the skin.
- pH 7.21 for example
- composition is about one-twentieth as irritating to the skin.
- present composition is about one-twentieth as irritating to the skin.
- the claimed compositions can reduce consumer perceived skin irritation (Sting %) by at least 25% and more preferably by at least 50% in relation to results
- compositions can be used more often and more regularly than conventional acid- based exfoliating compositions to improve the skin.
- conventional acid- based exfoliating compositions to improve the skin.
- compositions can provide an overall increase in the rate of skin cell- renewal when compared with compositions containing exfoliating acids because
- the claimed compositions can be applied more frequently with reduced irritation.
- Table 5 presents several examples of proposed emulsion, cream,
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- Dermatology (AREA)
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a method of enhancing the rate of skin exfoliation by incorporating a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative into a cosmetic composition that contains water and is suitable for application to mammalian skin. The composition has a pH from about 4.5 to 9 and can increase the rate of natural skin exfoliation by at least 10%.
Description
INCREASING SKIN CELL RENEWAL WITH WATER-SOLUBLE
VITAMIN E
REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[001] This application claims priority to U.S. Pat. No. 6,645,514 filed
December 19, 2002 and U.S. Attorney Docket No. 3086/1421 filed October, 10,
2003, each entitled "Increasing Skin Cell Renewal With Water-Soluble
Vitamin E."
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[002] Human skin is continually assaulted by environmental conditions
such as the sun, wind, and pollution. These environmental assaults age the
visible layer of skin and reduce the ability of the skin to serve as an effective barrier layer against the environment. This weathering causes undesirable
conditions that include wrinkles, age spots, roughness, scaling, flaking, uneven appearance, and uneven coloration. In addition, the effects of natural aging also
cause the skin to wrinkle.
[003] These negative effects can be prevented, or at least ameliorated, by applying skin care cosmetics that contain skin benefit agents that increase
exfoliation according to the present invention.
[004] Human skin may be classified into two major parts: the outer layer
or epidermis and an underlying layer or dermis. The dermis contains, among
other things, blood vessels, nerves, collagen, elastin, and fibroblast cells, which
are responsible for the biosynthesis of collagen and elastin.
[005] The epidermis may be considered to consist of two major zones, an inner or malpighian layer, and an outer or homy layer. The inner malpighian
layer, a living tissue, may be further divided into basal, spinous, and granular
layers. The outer horny layer, a dead tissue, is also referred to as stratum
corneum.
[006] In the natural skin renewal process, basal cells move outward from
the basal layer and pass through the spinous and granular layers to become
dead cells called corneocytes, in the stratum corneum. This process of forming corneocytes is called keratinization. The stratum corneum consists of approximately 14 layers of dead cells and is the skin tissue that one feels when
touching the surface of the skin.
[007] In normal skin, it takes about 14 days for the basal cells to move from the basal layer to the end of the granular layer and to become corneocytes,
and another 14 days for the corneocytes to reach the outermost layer of the stratum corneum, where they are naturally shed or exfoliated. Thus, it takes
about 28 days for cells of the basal layer to move outward to the surface in the course of skin renewal.
[008] Based on this understanding of skin behavior, two common
methods are used to improve the appearance of the skin through the application
of topical compositions. In the first, a composition is applied that protects the
living portion of the skin from damage. In the second, a composition is applied that increases the natural exfoliation rate (cell renewal rate) of the skin, thus increasing the rate at which the outer layers of dead cells (the stratum corneum)
are replaced.
[009] One conventional method of protecting the living skin cells from oxidative damage is by applying a composition containing α-Tocopherol
(naturally occurring Vitamin E) to the surface of the skin. Naturally occurring
Vitamin E is oil-soluble and can improve the appearance of the skin through
continued use by penetrating the outer layers of the skin to protect the living skin cells from oxidative attack, such as from radicals and peroxides. Additional oil- soluble Vitamin E derivatives, including ester derivatized Vitamin E, Tocopheryl
Acetate, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate, Tocopheryl
Nicotinate, and Tocopherol (vitamin E alcohol), can also serve to protect living skin cells from oxidative attack. Naturally occurring Vitamin E and its oil-soluble derivatives are believed to improve the appearance of skin by reducing oxidative
damage to living cells. These oil-soluble preparations are not known to increase exfoliation (skin cell-renewal) rate.
[0010] Unlike oil-soluble vitamin E derivatives, water soluble vitamin E
derivatives are known to prevent damage to organs when administered
internally. U.S. Patent No. 6,022,867, describes a water-soluble Vitamin E
derivative, DL-α-Tocopheryl Phosphate (VEP). The derivative may be prepared by reacting Vitamin E with sodium phosphate. The '867 patent discloses how
VEP can improve the health of animals when administered internally. Similarly,
WO 93/15731 discloses how internally administering phosphate derivitized Vitamin E to mice can prevent liver damage. Unlike prior oil-soluble Vitamin E
preparations, VEP is soluble in water.
[0011] Another conventional method to improve the appearance of the skin
is to increase the natural exfoliation rate (cell renewal rate) of the outermost part
of the stratum corneum, thus exposing lower layers of the stratum corneum, through the application of exfoliating acids. Unlike the previously discussed method of protecting living skin cells with oil-soluble Vitamin E and its oil-soluble
derivatives, here the exfoliating acids speed the natural exfoliation process by
acting on the layers of dead skin cells. Many exfoliating acids are known to increase the rate of natural exfoliation. Exfoliating acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, acetic acid, pyruvic
acid, poly hydroxy acids (including gluconolactone and derivatives) and the alpha and beta hydroxycarboxylic acids that have recently received an increasing
amount of attention. The lower molecular weight, short chain acids, such as lactic and glycolic acid, are the exfoliating acids most widely used in cosmetics.
[0012] A significant drawback to the use of acids as exfoliating agents,
including hydroxycarboxylic acids, is that they are most effective at low pH, about
4.0 or less. As disclosed in Yu, R.J., et al. "Bioavailability of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids in Topical Formulations," Cosmetic Dermatology, Vol. 9, No. 6 (June
1996), acidic exfoliating agents are believed to deprotonate at a pH of about 3.8,
thus losing their beneficial activity at higher pH due to a lack of bioavailability.
The inability of exfoliating acids to maintain their effectiveness at higher pH ranges was also demonstrated in Smith, W.P., "Hydroxy Acids and Skin Aging,"
Soap/Cosmetics/Chemical Specialties, pp. 54-58, 76 (September 1993).
[0013] Another drawback to the use of exfoliating acids is that a strong correlation exists between their ability to exfoliate (increase cell renewal rate)
and the degree of skin irritation that results. This increased irritation is likely
attributable to the acidity of the active agent. Therefore, for compositions relying
on exfoliating acids to increase cell renewal rates, the degree of exfoliation increases with an increase in acidity and irritation. Thus, in actual use, the amount of beneficial skin exfoliation that an exfoliating acid can deliver may not
be limited by the exfoliation ability of the acid, but by how often the composition can be applied to the skin without undue irritation.
[0014] As previously stated, at a pH of about 4.0 or less, exfoliating acids, which include hydroxycarboxylic acids, demonstrate a significant stimulation of cell renewal coupled with an undesirable level of skin irritation. However, as the
pH of the acidic composition is increased to approach neutral (7.0), cell renewal,
in addition to skin irritation, rapidly decreases. Thus, it would be beneficial to
provide an exfoliating composition that increases the rate of natural skin
exfoliation without the skin irritation associated with exfoliating acids. It would be most desirable to provide for enhanced skin exfoliation at a pH more closely approaching neutral to reduce skin irritation. The present compositions provide
enhanced skin exfoliation at a higher pH and with lower irritation than conventional exfoliating acids, thus overcoming a significant disadvantage of acidic exfoliants.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0015] In one aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use comprising a water-soluble
Vitamin E derivative and a carrier that includes water. The water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is preferably a water-soluble salt of Vitamin E and is in the water
phase.
[0016] In another aspect, a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is present in the composition in an amount effective to increase the rate of natural skin
exfoliation at a pH that significantly reduces skin irritation in comparison with prior exfoliating acids. The water-soluble Vitamin E derivative enhances the rate of
skin exfoliation without undue irritation.
[0017] In accordance with this aspect of the present invention, there is
provided a composition including a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative present in a therapeutically effective amount in a topically acceptable carrier for application to human skin to increase the natural rate of skin exfoliation. Preferably, the composition contains from about 0.05% to about 30% of a water-soluble Vitamin
E derivative and has a pH in the range from about 4.5 to 9.
[0018] - Another aspect of the present invention includes a method of increasing the rate of skin exfoliation comprising topically applying a cosmetic
composition containing an amount of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative effective to enhance the rate of skin cell exfoliation beyond the naturally occurring rate of skin cell exfoliation. In this aspect, the method includes topically applying to the skin a composition comprising a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative in an amount and for a period of time sufficient to increase the rate of
natural skin exfoliation.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0019] The present invention relates to compositions that enhance the rate
of skin cell renewal or exfoliation and to a method of increasing the skin cell
renewal rate. The compositions are believed to act by increasing the exfoliation or "release" of dead cells, not by repairing or protecting living skin cells from damage, including oxidative damage from radicals and peroxides. Thus, the present compositions increase the rate at which dead keratinizing cells are
released; they are not believed to protect living cells from damage.
[0020] By increasing the rate of exfoliation of mammalian skin, many benefits may be obtained. In one aspect, the visible layer of the skin may be
refinished to reduce uneven appearance and coloration. When light strikes the refinished skin, the skin appears "brighter" and more healthy. In another aspect, increasing the exfoliation rate improves the skin texture by reducing wrinkles, roughness, scaling and flaking, for example. By this smoothing of the skin texture, the appearance of the skin may be enhanced.
[0021] In particular, the present invention relates to a composition containing a skin benefiting agent that includes a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative that stimulates cell renewal, but does not unduly irritate at the desired
pH. In an especially preferred aspect, the present invention includes a composition including sodium phosphate derivatized Vitamin E (VEP). The
present invention also relates to a method of increasing the rate of skin-cell
exfoliation by applying a composition to the skin, wherein the composition comprises an effective amount of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative and a
carrier.
[0022] In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, a composition acceptable for topical application to the skin comprises a water-
soluble Vitamin E salt and a carrier.
[0023] The water-soluble Vitamin E salts useful in the present invention include all enantiomers whether singly or in combination. With respect to the salts, preferable salts include phosphates and sulfates, with phosphate salts being presently preferred. The cation portion of the salt includes, but is not
limited to alkali and alkaline earth metals such as sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium. The cations can be used alone or in a mixture of two or more. Sodium is a preferred cation for the salt.
[0024] Suitable water-soluble Vitamin E derivatives may include, for
example, Sodium Vitamin E Phosphate (VEP), Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid
Tocopheryl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Succinate,
Tocophersolan (Tocopheryl Polyethylene Glycol 1000 Succinate), Disodium
Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates, Tocophereth-5,10,12,18, and 50
(polyethylene glycol (PEG) tocopheryl ethers). The Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates may be thought of as phosphate salts of Vitamin E and its derivatives having beta-alanine functionality. For the
PEG vitamin E derivatives, increasing numbers represent increasing numbers of
PEG molecules attached to the Vitamin E. Thus, as the number increases, so
does water solubility, with Tocopereth-5 having the lowest water solubility and
Tocopereth-50 having the greatest solubility in water. Preferred water-soluble Vitamin E derivatives include Sodium Vitamin E Phosphate (VEP), Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid Tocopheryl Phosphate, and Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates.
[0025] To prepare the compositions according to the present invention, at least one of the aforementioned water-soluble Vitamin E salts may be mixed with
a pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable carrier that includes water. Desirably, from about 0.05% to about 30% of the composition is the water- soluble Vitamin E derivative, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%. At
present, a composition including from about 0.4% to about 5% of the water- soluble Vitamin E derivative is especially preferred. Unless stated otherwise, all
percentages are given on a weight/weight basis.
[0026] Desirably, the carrier is capable of assisting in maintaining the desired pH of the composition. The pH values for the compositions of the
present invention are from about 4.5 to about 9, preferably from 4.8 to 8.2, and
more preferably from 5.6 to 7.9.
[0027] While the difference in the numerical value of these pH ranges is small, the difference in acidity is substantial because of the logarithmic
relationship between numerical pH values and acidity. Thus, a pH of 5 is an order of magnitude less acidic than a pH of 4.
[0028] Desirably, the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is not combined to form a composition containing exfoliating acids, squalene, or squalane. A
"squalane" is a saturated hydrocarbon formed by reduction of squalene, an
unsaturated hydrocarbon occurring in fish and plant oils. In another aspect, the composition does not include an exfoliating acid at a concentration sufficient to provide an increase in exfoliation rate. In another aspect, the composition does
not contain greater than 2% of an exfoliating acid. In yet another aspect, the composition does not contain an exfoliating acid having a bioavailability of 4% or
greater, more preferably 1 % or greater.
[0029] The compositions of the present invention may be formulated as a
water-based solution, gel, lotion, cream, ointment, oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-
oil emulsion, or other pharmaceutically acceptable form. If, however, the water- based composition contains oil, the water-soluble Vitamin E salt is substantially in
the water phase.
[0030] The cosmetically acceptable carrier includes water and preferably
acts as a dilutant, dispersant, or carrier for other cosmetic ingredients present in
the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin. Preferably, the composition includes from 5 to 98% water and more preferably from 80 to 98% water.
[0031] The compositions of the present invention may also contain various conventional cosmetic ingredients, so long as they do not detrimentally affect the desired enhancement of skin exfoliation or composition pH. Suitable cosmetic
ingredients can include liquid or solid emollients, organic or inorganic
sunscreens, preservatives, buffers, solvents, humectants, viscosity modifiers, alcohols, fats, oils, surfactants, fatty acids, silicone oils, moisturizers, emulsifiers,
stabilizers, coloring agents and perfumes. The claimed compositions may also include propellants such as propane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide,
and nitrous oxide.
[0032] As used herein, "emollients" refer to materials used for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for the protection of the skin. Wide
varieties of suitable emollients as described in Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. 1 , pp. 32-43 (1972), are known and may be used
herein.
[0033] The compositions can optionally include inorganic and organic sunscreens as cosmetic ingredients that provide protection from the harmful
effects of excessive exposure to sunlight during use. In one aspect, preferable
compositions include from 0.1 to 10% and more preferably from 1 to 5% of an organic sunscreen.
[0034] Examples of suitable organic sunscreens include those set out in
Table 1 below, and mixtures thereof.
TABLE 1
[0035] The claimed compositions may also contain an inorganic
sunscreen, which includes, but is not limited to titanium dioxide; zinc oxide, having an average particle size of from 1 to 300 nm; iron oxide, having an
average particle size of from 1 to 300 nm; and silica, such as fumed silica, having an average particle size of from 1 to 100 nm. The total amount of
titanium dioxide that can be incorporated in the composition is from 1 to 25%, preferably from 2 to 10%, and ideally from 3 to 7%.
[0036] It may also be desirable to incorporate anti-inflammatory and/or
anti-irritant agents into the claimed compositions. The natural anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritant agents are preferred. For example, licorice and its extracts,
dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, oat and oat extracts, candelilla wax, alpha bisabolol,
aloe vera, Manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia cordifolial), and Guggal (extracted from plants in the genus Commiphora,
particularly Commiphora Mukul), may be used.
[0037] Additional skin benefit agents such as ceramides, glycoceramides, pseudoceramides, sphingolipids such as sphingomyelins, cerebrosides,
sulphatides, and ganglioside, sphingosines, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosines, and phospholipids, may also be incorporated into the claimed compositions, either separately or in mixtures. Fatty acids may also be
combined with these skin benefit agents. For example, the ceramides and
glycoceramides include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,589,178,
5,661 ,118, and 5,688,752. For example, the pseudoceramides include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,198,210; 5,206,020; and 5,415,855.
[0038] In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, the rate of natural skin exfoliation may be increased by topical application to the skin of the claimed compositions. In this regard, the present invention encompasses a
method of enhancing the rate of natural skin exfoliation including topically applying to the skin a composition comprising a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative (salt) in an amount and for a period of time sufficient to increase the
rate of natural skin exfoliation. In another embodiment, the Vitamin E salt is
provided in a carrier that includes water and that is capable of assisting in maintaining the desired composition pH.
[0039] Generally, the topical composition is applied on at least a daily
basis and may be applied for any suitable period of time. In comparison to conventional acidic (pH ≤ 4.0) compositions, the compositions of the present invention may be applied on a more regular basis with substantially reduced irritation to the skin. While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, the
reduction in skin irritation achieved during enhanced exfoliation, which the claimed compositions can provide, is believed attributable to the compositions
having a pH more closely approaching that of human skin (pH ~ 5) and higher.
By applying the present compositions on a routine basis to the skin, within a few days, a user may notice improved skin texture and smoothness with reduced
irritation.
[0040] Table 3 sets forth a comparative study between the cell-renewal rates of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative (VEP, a sodium-phosphate salt)
and a conventional exfoliating acids (Lactic Acid). Skin irritation, expressed as a "Sting" percentage, was also determined. The increase in skin cell renewal rate and irritation level was measured substantially according to the procedure described in Soap/Cosmetics/Chemical Specialties for September 1993 at pp. 54-58 and 76.
TABLE 3
[0041] As can be seen from the table, when VEP is compared to the lactic
acid control, beneficial cell-renewal rates are achieved at surprisingly low sting
percentages. The results clearly establish that skin exfoliation (cell-renewal rate
%) increases with higher concentrations of VEP and with increasing pH. Thus, the ability of the water-soluble Vitamin E to exfoliate at pH levels above 4.0,
where conventional acidic exfoliating agents loose their activity, is established.
While the previously mentioned exfoliating acids, such as lactic acid, salicylic acid, and the alpha and beta hydroxycarboxylic acids, are commonly thought of
as effective exfoliating agents, the discovery that a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative could serve as an effective exfoliating agent at high pH, above 4.5,
was quite surprising.
[0042] It is clear from this data that the compositions of the present invention can provide beneficial exfoliation rates above pH 4.5. In fact, desirable cell renewal rates are seen at pH of about 5.6 and higher, and at pH values of about 7.2 and higher. This is quite surprising because conventional exfoliating
agents not only lose their effectiveness above pH 4.0, but provide increased
exfoliation rates with decreasing pH. In contrast to conventional exfoliants, the
compositions of the present invention provide beneficial exfoliation above pH 4.5
and continue to increase their exfoliation performance with rising pH - a result completely opposite and unexpected to the results achieved with conventional
acidic compositions.
[0043] While Sting results are somewhat subjective, as evidenced by the variance between the 2.0 (wt %) VEP results from Table 3, the results clearly
show that while VEP is somewhat slower than Lactic Acid at cell-renewal, it is at least 4.5 times less irritating to the skin. In fact, at pH 7.21 for example, the
present composition is about one-twentieth as irritating to the skin. Preferably,
the claimed compositions can reduce consumer perceived skin irritation (Sting %) by at least 25% and more preferably by at least 50% in relation to results
achieved with an exfoliating acid having a pKa of 4.0 and below.
[0044] Due to the significantly decreased skin irritation provided by water- soluble Vitamin E derivatives in relation to exfoliating acids, the present
compositions can be used more often and more regularly than conventional acid- based exfoliating compositions to improve the skin. Thus, in actual use the
present compositions can provide an overall increase in the rate of skin cell- renewal when compared with compositions containing exfoliating acids because
the claimed compositions can be applied more frequently with reduced irritation.
[0045] The following are illustrative examples of formulations according to
the invention. Although the examples use only selected compounds and
formulations, it should be understood that the following examples are illustrative
and not limited.
[0046] Table 4 presents several examples of proposed solution and/or gel formulas falling within the scope of the present invention with the amounts
provided being expressed as weight percent.
TABLE 4
[0047] Table 5 presents several examples of proposed emulsion, cream,
and/or lotion formulas falling within the scope of the present invention with the amounts provided being expressed as weight percent.
Table 5
[0048] It should be understood that a wide range of changes and modifications can be made to the compositions and methods of this invention. It
is therefore intended that the foregoing description illustrates rather than limits
this invention, and that it is the following claims, including all equivalents, which define this invention.
Claims
1. A composition for enhancing the rate of mammalian skin exfoliation comprising: from 0.05% to 30% of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative selected from the group consisting of Sodium Vitamin E Phosphate, Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid Tocopheryl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Succinate, Tocophersolan (Tocopheryl Polyethylene Glycol 1000 Succinate), Vitamin E derivatives having beta-alanine functionality, Tocophereth-5,10,12,18, and 50, and mixtures thereof; and a carrier comprising water; where the composition has a pH from about 4.5 to 9 and the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is substantially in the water.
2. The composition of claim 1 , where the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is selected from the group consisting of Sodium Vitamin E Phosphate, Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid Tocopheryl Phosphate, Vitamin E derivatives having beta-alanine functionality, and mixtures thereof.
3. The composition of claim 1 , where the composition does not comprise squalene or squalane.
4. The composition of claim 1 , where the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative includes a Sodium Vitamin E Phosphate.
5. The composition of claim 1 , where the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative includes a Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphate.
6. The composition of claim 1 , where the composition comprises from 0.1 % to about 15% of the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative.
7. The composition of claim 1 , where the composition comprises from 0.4% to about 5% of the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative.
8. The composition of claim 1 , where the carrier further comprises a cosmetic ingredient.
9. The composition of claim 1 , where the composition has a pH from 4.8 to 8.2.
10. The composition of claim 1 , where the composition has a pH from 5.6 to 7.9.
11. Use of the composition of any one of the preceding claims for preparing a pharmaceutical, dermatological, topical, or cosmetic composition for enhancing the natural rate of mammalian skin exfoliation.
12. The use of the composition of claim 11 , where the natural rate of mammalian skin exfoliation is accelerated by at least 10%.
13. The use of the composition of claim 11 , where the natural rate of mammalian skin exfoliation is accelerated by at least 15%.
14. The use of the composition of claim 11 , where sting % is reduced by at least 25% in relation to that achieved with an exfoliating acid having a pKa of 4.0 and below.
15. The use of the composition of claim 11 , where sting % is reduced by at least 50% in relation to that achieved with an exfoliating acid having a pKa of 4.0 and below.
16. The use of the composition of claim 11 , where the natural rate of skin exfoliation is accelerated by at least 10% and sting % is reduced by at least 25% in relation to that achieved with an exfoliating acid having a pKa of 4.0 and below.
17. The use of the composition of claim 11 , where the natural rate of skin exfoliation is accelerated by at least 20% and sting % is reduced by at least 50% in relation to that achieved with an exfoliating acid having a pKa of 4.0 and below.
18. The use of the composition of claim 11 , where the pharmaceutical, dermatological, topical, or cosmetic composition is prepared as a solution, gel, lotion, cream, or ointment.
19. The use of the composition of claim 11 , where the enhanced rate of skin exfoliation improves the texture of mammalian skin.
20. The use of the composition of claim 11 , where the enhanced rate of skin exfoliation refinishes the mammalian skin.
Applications Claiming Priority (5)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US10/325,326 US6645514B1 (en) | 2002-12-19 | 2002-12-19 | Increasing skin cell renewal with water-soluble Vitamin E |
US325326 | 2002-12-19 | ||
US684140 | 2003-10-10 | ||
US10/684,140 US20040131569A1 (en) | 2002-12-19 | 2003-10-10 | Increasing skin cell renewal with water-soluble vitamin E |
PCT/US2003/039275 WO2004060341A2 (en) | 2002-12-19 | 2003-12-10 | Increasing skin cell renewal with water-soluble vitamin e |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1583514A2 true EP1583514A2 (en) | 2005-10-12 |
Family
ID=32716851
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP03814700A Withdrawn EP1583514A2 (en) | 2002-12-19 | 2003-12-10 | Increasing skin cell renewal with water-soluble vitamin e |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP1583514A2 (en) |
JP (1) | JP2006514047A (en) |
KR (1) | KR20050089045A (en) |
AU (1) | AU2003296454A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2004060341A2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2005053785A (en) * | 2003-05-20 | 2005-03-03 | Nippon Menaade Keshohin Kk | External preparation |
JP2014084308A (en) * | 2012-10-25 | 2014-05-12 | Fancl Corp | Liquid crystal composition |
Family Cites Families (11)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2657526B1 (en) * | 1990-01-31 | 1994-10-28 | Lvmh Rech | USE OF AN ALPHA-TOCOPHEROL PHOSPHATE, OR ONE OF ITS DERIVATIVES, FOR THE PREPARATION OF COSMETIC, DERMATOLOGICAL, OR PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS; COMPOSITIONS THUS OBTAINED. |
AU3662093A (en) * | 1992-02-14 | 1993-09-03 | Robert Lamb | Phosphate derivatives of vitamin e to protect cells from effects of aging and injury |
EP0716589A4 (en) * | 1993-07-23 | 1997-06-11 | Morris Herstein | Cosmetic, skin-renewal stimulating composition with long-term irritation control |
DE69637277T2 (en) * | 1995-10-17 | 2008-05-08 | Showa Denko K.K. | HIGH TEMPEROLO PHOSPHATES, METHOD FOR THEIR PREPARATION AND ANALYSIS, AND COSMETICS |
JP3950216B2 (en) * | 1997-12-26 | 2007-07-25 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | Topical skin preparation |
FR2775441B1 (en) * | 1998-02-27 | 2000-04-28 | Serobiologiques Lab Sa | MATRIX FOR THE PREPARATION OF MICROPARTICLES OR NANOPARTICLES, PROCESS FOR PRODUCING SUCH PARTICLES AND PARTICLES OBTAINED |
AU757681B2 (en) * | 1998-05-15 | 2003-02-27 | Showa Denko Kabushiki Kaisha | Preventives/remedies for skin diseases |
FI110157B (en) * | 2000-10-12 | 2002-12-13 | Duraban Oy | Antimicrobial polyalphaolefin composition and its use, process for the preparation of styrene-butadiene block copolymers containing thermoplastic elastomers and their use |
JP2004513183A (en) * | 2000-11-14 | 2004-04-30 | バイタル ヘルス サイエンシズ プロプライアタリー リミティド | Complex of phosphoric acid derivative |
EP1339412B1 (en) * | 2000-11-14 | 2011-11-02 | Vital Health Sciences Pty Ltd. | Formulation containing phosphate derivatives of electron transfer agents |
KR20050003417A (en) * | 2002-05-09 | 2005-01-10 | 쇼와 덴코 가부시키가이샤 | Skin Whitening External Preparation |
-
2003
- 2003-12-10 KR KR1020057010882A patent/KR20050089045A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2003-12-10 JP JP2004565335A patent/JP2006514047A/en active Pending
- 2003-12-10 WO PCT/US2003/039275 patent/WO2004060341A2/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2003-12-10 AU AU2003296454A patent/AU2003296454A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2003-12-10 EP EP03814700A patent/EP1583514A2/en not_active Withdrawn
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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See references of WO2004060341A2 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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WO2004060341A2 (en) | 2004-07-22 |
WO2004060341A3 (en) | 2005-03-03 |
WO2004060341B1 (en) | 2005-04-14 |
JP2006514047A (en) | 2006-04-27 |
KR20050089045A (en) | 2005-09-07 |
AU2003296454A1 (en) | 2004-07-29 |
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