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EP1411160A1 - Process for manufacturing a textile article in pure cashmere - Google Patents

Process for manufacturing a textile article in pure cashmere Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1411160A1
EP1411160A1 EP20030078225 EP03078225A EP1411160A1 EP 1411160 A1 EP1411160 A1 EP 1411160A1 EP 20030078225 EP20030078225 EP 20030078225 EP 03078225 A EP03078225 A EP 03078225A EP 1411160 A1 EP1411160 A1 EP 1411160A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
process according
thermosoluble
yarn
fibres
pure cashmere
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP20030078225
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jacopo Geraldini
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP1411160A1 publication Critical patent/EP1411160A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/04—Linen
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/024—Moisture-responsive characteristics soluble

Definitions

  • the present invention refers to a process for manufacturing a textile article in pure cashmere, whether it is a properly called fabric or a knit fabric or a Jersey fabric.
  • Cashmere is well known to be a precious material that is requested by high level clients.
  • the object of the present invention is now to produce a different process, even simpler, cheaper and more ecological, to obtain a textile article with similar characteristics.
  • thermosoluble material fibres are preferably of a prevalently vegetable character (cotton, viscose, linen, etc.) treated with a suitable product to make them thermosoluble.
  • a suitable product to make them thermosoluble.
  • the abovementioned fibres are soaked with a product composed of about 85% thickening agent and approximately 15% sodium bisulphate, which at an ambient temperature soaks the fibres themselves without damaging them.
  • the successive thermal treatment preferably at the temperature of 145-155 °C and taking from 2.5 to 7 minutes, determines the development of a corrosive chemical reaction, such to completely eliminate the thermosoluble fibres.
  • thermosoluble fibres of a different material is not to be excluded, for example synthetic fibres and in particular polyvinyl fibres.
  • thermosdluble yarn is indicated with 2.
  • the doubled yarn composed of a cashmere yarn and a thermosoluble yarn is indicated with 3.
  • the cashmere yarn can have a fibre count varying from 85 dtex to 250 dtex, over which dimension the cashmere yarn has sufficient strength to enable it to be woven without any support yarn.
  • the cashmere yarn used has a fibre count of 130 dtex.
  • thermosoluble material yarn is of the previously mentioned type, that is it is preferably a prevalently vegetable fibre yarn (cotton, viscose, linen, etc.) made thermosoluble by treatment with a product composed of approximately 85% thickening agent and approximately 15% sodium bisulphate.
  • a synthetic fibre can be used, that does not require a pre-treatment.
  • the fibre count of thermosoluble fibre is preferably analogous to the one of cashmere yarn.
  • the doubling operation is carried out inversely to that of the single yarn, that is with S twist.
  • the doubled yarn 3 thus obtained is submitted to a weaving operation according to the known technique, for example to obtain a plain weave like that shown in Figure 2.
  • weaves can be used, such as Batavia 2/2, Saglie, etc., or even Jacquard.
  • a knit or jersey weave can also be used.
  • thermosoluble yarn 2 is then eliminated by means of thermal treatment, preferably at the temperature of 145-155 °C and taking from 2.5 to 7 minutes.
  • the fabric thus obtained is then submitted to a dyeing treatment, for example comprising washing in a neutral bath for 10 min at 80 °C, dyeing with acid colours for 100 min at 80 °C and fulling with damp cleaning compounds containing enzyme at ambient temperature for 25 min.
  • a dyeing treatment for example comprising washing in a neutral bath for 10 min at 80 °C, dyeing with acid colours for 100 min at 80 °C and fulling with damp cleaning compounds containing enzyme at ambient temperature for 25 min.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

Manufacturing a textile article of pure cashmere involves doubling pure cashmere yarn having fiber count of 130 dtex with thermosoluble fiber yarn followed by weaving and dissolution of thermosoluble fiber yarn at 144 - 155[deg]C for 2.5 - 7 minutes.

Description

  • The present invention refers to a process for manufacturing a textile article in pure cashmere, whether it is a properly called fabric or a knit fabric or a Jersey fabric.
  • Cashmere is well known to be a precious material that is requested by high level clients.
  • At the same time it is also a material that at the pure state and with a fibre count higher than a certain maximum value has such a low mechanical resistance that makes weaving it impossible.
  • The same Applicant (EP-A-1061162) has already proposed a process for obtaining pure cashmere fabrics, that provides for the initial association of pure cashmere fibres with water-soluble material fibres, then the weaving of the association obtained in this manner and finally the dissolution of the water-soluble material fibres by means of a lightly acid liquid solution at high temperature.
  • In this manner it is possible to obtain a textile article in pure cashmere produced with an extremely fine yarn, at a low price and in a decidedly ecological manner.
  • The object of the present invention is now to produce a different process, even simpler, cheaper and more ecological, to obtain a textile article with similar characteristics.
  • In accordance with the present invention, this object is achieved by means of a process characterised in that it comprises the following working processes in sequence:
  • a) association of pure cashmere fibres with thermosoluble material fibres,
  • b) weaving of the association obtained in this manner,
  • c) dissolution of the thermosoluble material fibres by means of thermal treatment.
  • The thermosoluble material fibres are preferably of a prevalently vegetable character (cotton, viscose, linen, etc.) treated with a suitable product to make them thermosoluble. In particular, the abovementioned fibres are soaked with a product composed of about 85% thickening agent and approximately 15% sodium bisulphate, which at an ambient temperature soaks the fibres themselves without damaging them. The successive thermal treatment, preferably at the temperature of 145-155 °C and taking from 2.5 to 7 minutes, determines the development of a corrosive chemical reaction, such to completely eliminate the thermosoluble fibres.
  • Moreover the use of thermosoluble fibres of a different material is not to be excluded, for example synthetic fibres and in particular polyvinyl fibres.
  • The advantages of the process according to the present invention compared to the known technique mentioned above, can thus be summed up as:
    • the cashmere is not processed in an acid-base water solution, therefore its animal fibre is not in any manner damaged or affected,
    • the thermosoluble materials have a much lower cost of the water-soluble fibres, in substance less than half at the same fibre count, and this entails considerable savings, above all taking into account that it concerns fibres to be eliminated,
    • the process is much simpler and easier compared to the case of the water-soluble yarns, that are easily subject to deterioration and to hygroscopic shocks,
    • the thermosoluble materials are much easier to find on the market.
  • The characteristics and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following detailed description of an embodiment thereof, illustrated as non-limiting example in the enclosed drawings, in which:
  • Figure 1 shows a doubled cashmere and synthetic yarn before weaving;
  • Figure 2 shows a portion of plain weave obtained by weaving doubled yarns such as that in Fig. 1;
  • Figure 3 shows the same portion of weave after the dissolution operation has been carried out.
  • In the drawings the cashmere yam is indicated with 1 and the thermosdluble yarn is indicated with 2. The doubled yarn composed of a cashmere yarn and a thermosoluble yarn is indicated with 3.
  • The cashmere yarn can have a fibre count varying from 85 dtex to 250 dtex, over which dimension the cashmere yarn has sufficient strength to enable it to be woven without any support yarn. According to a currently preferred embodiment of the present invention the cashmere yarn used has a fibre count of 130 dtex.
  • The thermosoluble material yarn is of the previously mentioned type, that is it is preferably a prevalently vegetable fibre yarn (cotton, viscose, linen, etc.) made thermosoluble by treatment with a product composed of approximately 85% thickening agent and approximately 15% sodium bisulphate. In alternative, a synthetic fibre can be used, that does not require a pre-treatment. The fibre count of thermosoluble fibre is preferably analogous to the one of cashmere yarn.
  • The doubling operation is carried out inversely to that of the single yarn, that is with S twist.
  • The doubled yarn 3 thus obtained is submitted to a weaving operation according to the known technique, for example to obtain a plain weave like that shown in Figure 2.
  • Other type of weaves can be used, such as Batavia 2/2, Saglie, etc., or even Jacquard. A knit or jersey weave can also be used.
  • The thermosoluble yarn 2 is then eliminated by means of thermal treatment, preferably at the temperature of 145-155 °C and taking from 2.5 to 7 minutes.
  • The process described leaves no type of residual on the fabric obtained, not even on the selvedge, where it is more closely woven, thus guaranteeing very high quality standards.
  • The fabric thus obtained is then submitted to a dyeing treatment, for example comprising washing in a neutral bath for 10 min at 80 °C, dyeing with acid colours for 100 min at 80 °C and fulling with damp cleaning compounds containing enzyme at ambient temperature for 25 min.
  • Finally the article thus obtained is dried and submitted to steam treatment.

Claims (12)

  1. Process for manufacturing a textile article in pure cashmere, characterised in that it comprises the following working processes in sequence:
    d) association of pure cashmere fibres with thermosoluble material fibres,
    e) weaving of the association obtained in this manner,
    a) dissolution of the thermosoluble material fibres by means of thermal treatment.
  2. Process according to claim 1, characterised in that said thermosoluble material fibres consist of prevalently vegetable fibres, such as cotton, viscose, linen, etc. treated with a product suitable for making them thermosoluble.
  3. Process according to claim 2, characterised in that said product is composed of approximately 85% thickening agent and approximately 15% sodium bisulphate.
  4. Process according with any claims 1-3, characterised in that said thermal treatment is carried out at temperatures of 145-155 °C and takes from 2.5 to 7 minutes.
  5. Process according to claim 1, characterised in that said thermosoluble material fibres consist of synthetic fibres.
  6. Process according with any claims 1-5, characterised in that said association is obtained by means of an operation of doubling a yarn of pure cashmere (1) with a yarn of thermosoluble fibre (2).
  7. Process according to claim 6, characterised in that the yarn of pure cashmere (1) has a fibre count of between 85 dtex and 250 dtex.
  8. Process according to claim 7, characterised in that the yarn of pure cashmere (1) has a fibre count of 130 dtex.
  9. Process according with any claims 1-8, characterised in that dissolution follows treatments of washing, dyeing and fulling the fabric.
  10. Process according to claim 9, characterised in that the washing of the fabric is carried out in a neutral bath.
  11. Process according to claim 9 or 10, characterised in that the dyeing is carried out with acid colours.
  12. Process according to claim 9, 10 or 11, characterised in that fulling is carried out with damp cleaning compounds containing enzyme.
EP20030078225 2002-10-16 2003-10-13 Process for manufacturing a textile article in pure cashmere Withdrawn EP1411160A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITMI20022195 2002-10-16
IT002195A ITMI20022195A1 (en) 2002-10-16 2002-10-16 PROCESS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A TEXTILE ARTICLE IN PURE CASHMERE.

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1411160A1 true EP1411160A1 (en) 2004-04-21

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP20030078225 Withdrawn EP1411160A1 (en) 2002-10-16 2003-10-13 Process for manufacturing a textile article in pure cashmere

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1411160A1 (en)
IT (1) ITMI20022195A1 (en)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
NL1032876C2 (en) * 2006-11-16 2008-05-19 Ten Cate Thiolon Bv Composite artificial grass fiber and method for manufacturing such an artificial grass fiber.
EP1967622A3 (en) * 2007-03-09 2008-10-08 Jacopo Geraldini Process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable, by the use of continous water-soluble synthetic filaments
WO2009098585A2 (en) * 2008-02-08 2009-08-13 Ghertex S.R.L. Process for making a multicomponent thread and multicomponent thread thus made
EP3162955A1 (en) * 2015-10-28 2017-05-03 Filatura di Trivero S.p.A. Method of making a yarn based on a natural fiber and a fabric made of this yarn

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1061162A1 (en) * 1999-06-15 2000-12-20 Jacopo Geraldini Process for the manufacture of a pure cashmere textile article

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1061162A1 (en) * 1999-06-15 2000-12-20 Jacopo Geraldini Process for the manufacture of a pure cashmere textile article

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
NL1032876C2 (en) * 2006-11-16 2008-05-19 Ten Cate Thiolon Bv Composite artificial grass fiber and method for manufacturing such an artificial grass fiber.
WO2008060143A1 (en) * 2006-11-16 2008-05-22 Ten Cate Thiolon B.V. A composite artificial grass fibre as well as a method for manufacturing such an artificial grass fibre.
US8182886B2 (en) 2006-11-16 2012-05-22 Ten Cate Thiolon, B.V. Composite artificial grass and method for manufacturing same
EP1967622A3 (en) * 2007-03-09 2008-10-08 Jacopo Geraldini Process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable, by the use of continous water-soluble synthetic filaments
WO2009098585A2 (en) * 2008-02-08 2009-08-13 Ghertex S.R.L. Process for making a multicomponent thread and multicomponent thread thus made
WO2009098585A3 (en) * 2008-02-08 2009-10-01 Ghertex S.R.L. Process for making a multicomponent thread and multicomponent thread thus made
EP3162955A1 (en) * 2015-10-28 2017-05-03 Filatura di Trivero S.p.A. Method of making a yarn based on a natural fiber and a fabric made of this yarn

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ITMI20022195A1 (en) 2004-04-17

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