EP1355618A1

EP1355618A1 - Method and agent for the permanent deformation of keratin fibres

Info

Publication number: EP1355618A1
Application number: EP02708291A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Burkhard Müller; Thorsten Knappe
Original assignee: Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2001-01-26
Filing date: 2002-01-17
Publication date: 2003-10-29
Also published as: DE10103700A1; WO2002058650A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for the permanent deformation of keratin fibres. According to said method, the keratin fibres are treated with a permanent-wave preparation containing a keratin reducing substance before and/or after a mechanical deformation, the fibres are then rinsed after a reaction period, subsequently fixed using an aqueous preparation of an oxidant, optionally rinsed again after a reaction period and optionally re-treated. The method is particularly effective and kind to the fibres, if the permanent-wave preparation is produced from a keratin reducing solution (A) and a protective component (B), by mixing the two components before application.

Description

"Process for the permanent formation of keratin fibers and agents"

The invention relates to a process for the permanent formation of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, by reductive splitting and renewed oxidative formation of disulfide bonds in keratin, and to agents suitable for this process.

The permanent deformation of keratin fibers is usually carried out in such a way that the fiber is mechanically deformed and the deformation is determined by suitable aids. Before and / or after this deformation, the fiber is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance and, after an exposure time, rinsed with water or an aqueous solution. In a second step, the fiber is then treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. After an exposure time, this is also rinsed out and the fiber is freed from the mechanical deformation aids (curlers, papillots).

The aqueous preparation of the keratin reducing agent is usually made alkaline so that on the one hand a sufficient proportion of the thiol functions are deprotonated and on the other hand the fiber swells and in this way a deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance into the fiber is made possible. The keratin-reducing substance cleaves a part of the disulfide bonds of the keratin to -SH groups, so that the peptide crosslinking is loosened and the keratin structure is reoriented due to the tension of the fiber due to the mechanical deformation. Under the influence of the oxidizing agent, disulfide bonds are again formed, and in this way the keratin structure is re-fixed in the predetermined deformation. A known method of this type is permanent wave treatment of human hair. This can be used both for producing curls and waves in straight hair and for straightening curly hair. However, a negative side effect of the permanent waving of the hair that is carried out in this way is often embrittlement and dulling of the hair. Furthermore, in many cases, other properties such as wet and dry combability, feel, suppleness, softness, gloss and tear resistance are also influenced in an undesirable manner.

Among other things, these negative side effects are influenced by the condition of the parent hair and essentially by the pH of the reducing solution. A low pH generally leads to less undesirable effects, but the wave power and the durability of the perm are often not sufficient. A higher pH value, on the other hand, leads to a satisfactory wave performance, but also to significantly increased negative side effects, especially on hair that has already been preloaded. An optimally formulated permanent waving agent should therefore specifically enable a desired shaping performance while influencing the hair structure as little as possible.

There has been no shortage of attempts to achieve this in the past.

Thioglycolic acid or its salts or esters are used almost exclusively as reducing agents. The corresponding, alkaline, i.e. H. Preparations set at a pH of approx. 8.0-9.5 do show the desired reduction performance, but can cause damage to damaged, especially oxidatively pretreated, hair. Problems can also occur in the scalp area in individual cases.

A corresponding modification of the reducing solution generally leads to unsatisfactory wave performance. The addition of known additives such as structurants, polymers, film formers and crosslinking resins or the neutral to slightly acidic setting of the preparation can reduce the damage to the hair, but the structure of the hair remains more or less weakened. The nourishing treatment of the hair by further post-treatments can indeed Improving hair properties again requires additional time and usually the use of at least one other agent.

All known solutions, however, have in common that they have been formulated specifically for a hair type. There are, for example, agents specifically for permanently waved and / or colored hair, agents for normal hair, agents for fine hair, etc., both with two components (wave solution A and fixative solution B) and with several components (wave solution A, Care component B, fixation C and possibly other components such as special aftertreatment agents which are used after the permanent wave process has been completed). A simultaneous individual adaptation of the perm to be carried out to the specific hair quality with regard to the concentration of the reducing agent, the pH value and the amount of nourishing substances is not possible with these agents. The transitions between the individual hair qualities are fluid and require careful assessment before using a perm. The abundance of available means has become unmanageable for the consumer in the meantime, and the selection of a suitable agent specifically for his hair type has become very difficult, not to mention the large number of packaging that must be used with today's multi-component systems. The use of only one keratin-reducing solution (A) and one care-containing solution (B) for all hair types would be advantageous for the consumer.

There have therefore been a number of attempts to develop improved reducing agents or preparations. However, these attempts did not lead to satisfactory results. An almost neutral setting of the preparations, which is usually understood to mean pH values of 7-8, reduces the damage to the hair and scalp, but the reduction effect on the hair is inadequate at the usual concentrations of the reducing agents, so that the curls are too soft and the perm is not very durable. In many cases, however, the necessary increase in these concentrations is not possible, not least because of legal requirements. Further information on this problem is, for example, the "Handbook of Cosmetics und Riechstoffe "by H. Janistyn, Dr. Alfred Hüthig Verlag Heidelberg, 2nd edition, 1973, in volume III on pages 353 and following.

European patent application 0 614 657 discloses agents which consist of two compositions which are kept separate from one another until use, the composition (A) comprising certain substances (polyols and amino acid hydrochlorides) and a pH of 4.5 to 6.5 and a second composition (B) kept separate therefrom with an alkalizing agent such as ammonium bicarbonate containing a pH between 8 and 9.5, and both compositions are mixed with one another immediately before use, a pH between 7 and 8 being set ,

European patent application 0 628 301 discloses agents which are produced immediately before use by mixing two components, one component containing the keratin-reducing compound and the other component containing a buffer system.

Relatively gentle preparations can be formulated in this way, but it is not possible to adapt them individually to the respective hair condition.

There was therefore still the task of finding a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, in which the undesirable side effects mentioned are further reduced or eliminated, and the means made available to the consumer are simpler and clearer to use and by saving of packaging material becomes more environmentally friendly.

It has now surprisingly been found that a substantial improvement in the properties of deformed keratin fibers, such as improved combability and finish, is achieved by using a multi-component agent for permanent shaping of the hair, which can be used equally for all hair types and from a preparation A, containing a keratin-reducing substance, a preparation B, containing the care substances, preparations A and B depending on Hair quality and desired shaping performance are mixed with one another in variable proportions immediately before use, and a preparation C for fixing the hair. In this process, the pH value and the concentration of reducing agent are regulated at the same time and the care output is controlled in the waving agent used. Due to the variable mixing of these two components, only an aqueous corrugated solution (A) and a care component (B) are required for all hair types.

The invention therefore relates to a process for the permanent shaping of keratin fibers, in which the fiber is treated before and / or after mechanical shaping with an aqueous preparation (AB) of a keratin-reducing substance, optionally after an exposure time with water and / or an aqueous agent rinses, then fixed with an aqueous preparation (C) of an oxidizing agent and optionally rinsed after an exposure time and optionally aftertreated, characterized in that the aqueous preparation (AB) only before use by mixing an aqueous preparation (A) with a pH greater than or equal to 7, which contains at least one keratin-reducing substance, and an aqueous preparation (B), which contains at least one care substance.

The following terms are also used:

"Corrugated solution" for the aqueous preparation (A) of the keratin-reducing substance, "care component" for the aqueous preparation (B) of the care substances, "corrugating agent" for the ready-to-use preparation (AB), consisting of (A) and

(B),

"Fixing agent" for the aqueous preparation (C) of the oxidizing agent.

In the context of a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, these agents either serve to carry out the reducing step or to carry out the oxidizing step after carrying out the reducing step and can in principle contain all the constituents customary for these agents. The method according to the invention is preferably used for perming or straightening human hair.

The corrugated solutions (A) according to the invention necessarily contain the mercaptans known as keratin-reducing substances. Such compounds are, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thio malic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and their salts and esters, cysteamine, cysteine, multicolored salts and salts of sulfurous acid. The alkali metal or ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid and / or thiolactic acid are particularly suitable. The keratin-reducing substances are preferably used in the waving agents (AB) in concentrations of 0.3 to 2.0 mol / kg at a pH of 5 to 12, in particular 7 to 9.5. Mixtures of salts of thioglycolic acid and salts of thiolactic acid can be preferred. To adjust this pH, the waving agents (AB) according to the invention usually contain alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkali and ammonium carbonates and hydrogen carbonates or organic amines such as monoethanolamine. The alkalizing agents can be contained in the corrugated solution (A) and / or in the care component (B). However, the alkalizing agents are preferably only contained in the corrugated solution (A). The corrugated solution (A) itself has a pH of 7 to 12, preferably 7 to 10 and very particularly preferably 7 to 9.5.

The care component (B) preferably has a pH of less than 7, particularly preferably from 1 to 5, very particularly preferably from 1 to 3.5 and in particular from 1 to 2.5.

The corrugated solutions (AB) are specifically tailored to the condition of the hair. The preparation by mixing the preparations (A) and (B) is therefore preferably carried out only immediately before use. Since the corrugated solutions (AB) are generally stable in storage, there is nothing in principle to prevent a supply from being prepared for several applications.

The exposure time of the waving agents (AB) on the hair is generally 5 to 40 minutes, the thickness of the hair to be treated, the hair condition, the desired degree of deformation, the size of the mechanical deformation aid used (hair roller) and the type of keratin reducing agent being further influencing factors are. Both the waving agent and the fixing agent can be formulated as a cream, gel or liquid. Furthermore, it is possible to assemble the agent in the form of foam aerosols, which are mixed with a liquefied gas such. B. propane-butane mixtures, nitrogen, CO2, air, N2O, dimethyl ether, chlorofluorocarbon blowing agents or

Mixtures of these can be filled into aerosol containers with foam valves. The individual components of the method according to the invention are preferably used as a cream, gel or liquid.

After the corrugating solution (A) has been mixed with the care component (B) to form the corrugating agent (AB), this can of course be in the form of a two-phase or multiphase system. Furthermore, both the corrugated solution (A) and the care component (B) and / or the fixation (C) as such can already be in two or more phases. Two-phase and multi-phase systems are systems in which there are at least two separate, continuous phases. Examples of such systems are preparations which have the following phases:

• An aqueous phase and a non-aqueous phase, which are separate from each other

• An aqueous phase and two non-aqueous, immiscible phases, each of which is present separately

An oil-in-water emulsion and a separate non-aqueous phase

• a water-in-oil emulsion and a separate aqueous phase.

The fixation (C) itself can also consist of two separate preparations (Cl) and (C2), one of the preparations necessarily containing an oxidizing agent and the other preparation may contain, for example, other caring substances and / or reducing agents to produce a heat effect , The care component (B) can also be used as component (C2).

The active substances described below can be used particularly advantageously in the context of the invention as further constituents of both the corrugated solution (A) and the care component (B) and / or the fixation (C). To do this, the polyols must first be calculated. Suitable polyols are, for example, glycerol and partial glycerol ether, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol , Hexanediols, for example 1,2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol, dodecanediol, in particular 1,2-dodecanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol. In particular, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol and 1,3-butanediol have proven to be particularly suitable.

These polyols are preferably contained in the waving agents used according to the invention in amounts of 1-10, in particular 2-10,% by weight, based on the entire waving agent.

According to the invention it is of course also possible to use alcohols which are miscible to a limited extent with water, in particular if multi-phase systems are to be obtained. ,

“Miscible with water” means those alcohols which are not more than 10% by weight soluble in water at 20 ° C., based on the mass of water.

The aqueous and the non-aqueous phases are in the compositions used in the process according to the invention, the corrugated solution (A), the care component (B) and the fixation (C), in proportions (based on the weight) of 1: 200 to 1: 1 , preferably from 1:40 to 1: 5 and particularly preferably from 1:20 to 1:10. In cases where there are several non-aqueous phases, this information refers to the total of the non-aqueous phases.

Fat substances (D) can be used as additional care substances. Fat substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms in amounts of 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent, can be used as fatty acids. Saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ carbon atoms in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the entire preparation, can be used as fatty alcohols.

Natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can be used according to the invention are in particular:

- vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil. However, other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products l, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

The amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oils used in the agents used according to the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15% by weight. -%.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the agents according to the invention is usually 0.1-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1

35% by weight are preferred according to the invention. Furthermore, it has been shown that polymers (G) are advantageously used in the process according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, polymers are therefore added to the agents used according to the invention, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven to be effective.

Cationic polymers (G1) are understood to mean polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups Polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a Cl-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable.

Homopolymers of the general formula (Gl-I), R ¹

I - [CH ₂ -C-] "X ^" (Gl-I)

I CO-O- CH ^ - 'R ^ R ⁴

in which R ^{1 =} -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from Cl-4-alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (Eq-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Within the scope of these polymers, those are according to the invention preferred, for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹ represents a methyl group R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ represent methyl groups m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically compatible counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Halide ions, in particular chloride, are preferred.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units according to formula (Gl-I) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, C 1 alkyl alkyl ester and d 1 alkyl methacrylate as nonionogenic monomer units. Among these nonionic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred. As in the case of the homopolymers described above, these copolymers can also be crosslinked. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylainide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammomum chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example

- Quaternized cellulose derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® . The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives,

cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

cationic guar derivatives, such as, in particular, the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia ^® Guar and Jaguar ^® ,

- polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized Trimefhylsilylamo- dimethicone), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modi fied silicone, which is also known as amodimethicone ), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80),

- Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products commercially available under the names Merquat ^® 100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

- Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

- quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, - And the known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Likewise usable according to the invention are the copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, such as those available as commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are.

Other cationic polymers of the invention are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic are preferred, for example, chitosan and its derivatives, such as, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^®. CMF, Hydagen ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are commercially available.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

The anionic polymers (G2) which can be used in the preparations of the process according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being able to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

For example, such a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyIpropansulfon- is acid, sold under the name Rheothik ^® l 1-80 commercially.

In this embodiment, it may be preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the preferred crosslinking agents being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide.

Also preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also very suitable polymers. A networked with 1,9-decadiene Maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is commercially available under the name Stabileze ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers in all aqueous preparations of the process according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule Contain ^" - or -SO ₃ ^" groups, and summarize those polymers which contain -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, efhylmethacrylat a copolymer of tert-butylamino, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid , Methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2 104 091, European Patent Application 47 714, European Patent Application 217 274, European Patent Application 283 817 and German Patent Application 28 17369.

Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another

(a) Monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C "H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ° (G3- I) in which R and R independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and

A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups. According to the invention, these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers, reference is expressly made to the content of German laid-open specification 39 29 973. Such polymers are very particularly preferred in which monomers of type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(_) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamido-propyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned.

Furthermore, nonionic polymers (G4) can be contained in all aqueous preparations of the process according to the invention. It may be preferred to use them in the fixation (C) and / or its component (C2).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers, as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropylcellulose, as they are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON).

- Shellac

- polyvinylpyrrolidones, as, for example, sold under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point at normal pressure is above 200 ° C. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, phenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups. - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 Bl.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.

The polymers (G) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.

Protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives (H) may also be present in the preparations used according to the invention. Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates is also understood to mean total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives, as well as mixtures of different amino acids. According to the invention, polymers constructed from amino acids and amino acid derivatives are furthermore to be understood under the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin can be used. Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana), Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Soi ^® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Kerasol ^® (Croda) sold.

According to the invention, the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, e.g. B. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), Hydrolupin ^® (Croda), Hydrosesame ^® (Croda), Hydrotritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolyzates as such is preferred, amino acid mixtures obtained in some other way can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

The protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives are preferably contained in the preparations used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and or their derivatives (J) can be used in the preparations of the process according to the invention. The sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts are preferred, in which the ammonium ion carries one to three C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen. The sodium salt is very particularly preferred. The amounts used in the agents according to the invention are 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight. The use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) has also proven to be advantageous.

Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. According to the invention, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate come into consideration as vitamin A components. The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

- Vitamin Bi (thiamine)

- Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

- Vitamin B ₃ . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid id (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Within this group, panthenol and / or pantolactone is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.

- Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal), Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,

Vitamin F. The term “vitamin F” usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4 -d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which the trivial name biotin has now become established .. In the agents used according to the invention, biotin is preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 contain up to 0.01 wt .-%.

The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Finally, plant extracts (L) can be used in the preparations of the method according to the invention.

These extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and or leaves of the plant. With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, reference is made in particular to the extracts which are listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guide to the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association of Body Care and Detergents (IKW), Frankfurt.

According to the invention, the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, pickled hake, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred.

The extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, are particularly preferred. Rosemary, birch, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, harrow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

The extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.

Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred, both as the sole extracting agent and in a mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable. According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their extraction.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids, and in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxydi, tri and polycarboxylic acids in the care component (B) and / or the fixation (C ) to use. It has been shown here that, in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Other generally suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 C atoms, for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxy polycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and poly-tartaric acid and their esters.

According to the invention, further constituents of all aqueous preparations can be surface-active compounds, in particular those from the group of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants (E).

Surfactants are surface-active substances that form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or in volume phases to micelle colloids or can aggregate lyotropic mesophases, understood. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in "H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". The definition given above can be found from p. 190 in this publication.

In principle, suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances which are suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts and the mono-, di- and trialkanol ammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

- linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

- Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

- Monosulfonic acid and dialkyl sulfosuccinates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl sulfosuccinic acid with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

- Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-3926 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (El-I),

O

II

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) n - O - p - OR ² (El-I)

OX

in R ¹ preferably for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical with 8 to 30

Carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _π R ¹ or X, n for

Numbers from 1 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or

NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another representing hydrogen or a Cl to C4 hydrocarbon radical, is sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1 -II)

R ⁷ CO (AlkO) "SO ₃ M (El -II) in R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 C atoms, alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n stands for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (EI-III) CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸ CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z - SO ₃ X ^{(E1 _III)}

in which R ⁸ CO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates which are suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts or their formulas with sulfuric acid trioxide with sulfuric acid trioxide or their sulfuric acid adducts with sodium sulfate trichloride. Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (III) are preferably used, in which R ⁸ CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-Bl 0 561 825, EP-Bl 0 561 999, DE -Al 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),

Amidether carboxylic acids as described in EP 0 690 044,

- Condensation products from C ₈ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols with protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the person skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, such as the Lamepon ^® types, Gluadin ^® types, Hostapon ^® KCG or the Amisoft ^® types ,

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglycer disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one in the molecule carry a -COO ^H - or -SO ₃ ^w group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl -3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C - alkyl or acyl group in the molecule at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and for forming inner salts - C ₂₄ are qualified. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N- alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-

Alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C ₁₂ - cis acyl sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such connections are, for example

- Adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, with fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

- Adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide end-capped with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 C- Atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis),

Cι ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (E4-I)

R ^ O ^ OCH ^ HR ^ wOR ³ (E4-I)

in the R * CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or methyl, R ³ for linear or branched alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w for numbers from 1 to 20 stands, amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (E4-II),

R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant procedures in preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature here on the Review by Biermann et al. in Starch /force 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW Journal Issue 8, 598 (1995).

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer and here can assume the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C ₈ -Cιo (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical C ₈ -C ₈ coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of C ₁₂ alcohol may be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _/ π-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ^1S can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Prefers are alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C _12/14 coconut alcohol with a DP of I to 3.

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III), R ⁶

I

R ⁵ CO-N- [Z] (E4-III)

in which R ⁵ CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁶ for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] for a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their production, reference is made to US Pat. Nos. 1,985,424, 2,016,962 and 2,703,798 and international patent application WO 92/06984. An overview of this topic by H. Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988). The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):

R ⁸ OH OH OH

I I I I

R ⁷ CO-N-CH ₂ -CH-CH-CH-CH-CH ₂ OH (E4-IV)

OH The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ⁷ CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The alkylene oxide adducts with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are characterized by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

Furthermore, very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These can be contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight are very particularly preferred. The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologues which are obtained as catalysts when fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide are reacted using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. In contrast, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.

The surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,

In a further preferred embodiment, emulsifiers (F) are used in the preparations of the process according to the invention. Emulsifiers cause the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Like surfactants, emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. Choosing this emulsifying Surfactants or emulsifiers depend on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase as well as the fine particle size of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in “H. -D.Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with polyols with 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular with glycerol,

- Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol adducts with methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, degrees of oligomerization from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred,

Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68,

Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,

Partial esters of polyols with 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 C atoms,

- sterols. Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and which are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.

- phospholipids. These include primarily the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product)

- Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.1-3% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention can preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, in Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz). (1997), page 1764, contain the definitions listed. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 can be particularly preferred according to the invention.

Heterocyclic compounds such as, for example, derivatives of imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine can be used as further care substances in the aqueous care component (B). Derivatives of these compounds, such as, for example, are also suitable Cι. _4- hydroxyalkyl derivatives and Preferred substituents, which can be positioned on carbon atoms as well as on nitrogen atoms of the heterocyclic ring systems, are methyl, ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl and β-aminoethyl groups.

These derivatives preferably contain 1 or 2 of these substituents.

Derivatives of heterocyclic compounds preferred according to the invention are, for example, 1-methylimidazole, 2-methylimidazole, 4 (5) -methylimidazole, 1,2-dimethylimidazole, 2-ethylimidazole, 2-isopropylimidazole, N-methylpyrrolidone, 1-methylpiperidine, 4-methylpiperidine, 2- Ethylpiperidine, 4-methylmoφholin, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) moφholin, 1-ethylpiperazine, l- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine, l- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine. Imidazole derivatives which are further preferred according to the invention are biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole. Among these heterocychic care substances, the mono- and dialkylimidazoles, biotin and hydantoin are particularly preferred.

These heterocychic compounds are contained in the wave agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total wave agent. Amounts of 2 to 6% by weight have proven to be particularly suitable.

According to the invention, further care substances which can be contained in all aqueous preparations used according to the invention are amino acids and amino acid derivatives. From the group of amino acids, arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine in particular have proven to be suitable according to the invention. The amino acids can be used both as free amino acids and as salts, e.g. B. can be used as hydrochloride. Furthermore, oligopeptides consisting of an average of 2-3 amino acids, which have a high proportion (> 50%, in particular> 70%) of the amino acids mentioned, have also proven to be usable according to the invention.

Arginine and its salts and arginine-rich oligopeptides are particularly preferred according to the invention.

These amino acids or derivatives are contained in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 2 to 6% by weight have proven to be particularly suitable.

In addition, it can prove to be advantageous if the wave solution (A) and / or the care component (B) according to the invention contains penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ether, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ether, for example

Propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol. The penetration aids and swelling agents are contained in the preparations used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 01 to 10% by weight are preferred.

Furthermore, the wave lotions according to the invention can contain wave-strengthening components, in particular urea, imidazole and the above-mentioned diols. For more information on such corrugation-strengthening components, reference is made to the publications DE-OS 44 36 065 and EP-Bl-363 057, the content of which is expressly incorporated by reference.

The waving-strengthening compounds can be contained in the waving lotions according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total waving lotions. Amounts of 1 to 4% by weight have proven to be sufficient, which is why these amounts are particularly preferred.

Mandatory constituents of the fixing agents (C and / or Cl) according to the invention are oxidizing agents, for example sodium bromate, potassium bromate, hydrogen peroxide and the stabilizers customary for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen oxide preparations. The pH of such aqueous H ₂ O ₂ preparations, which usually contain about 0.5 to 15% by weight, usually about 0.5 to 3% by weight, of H ₂ O ₂ ready for use, is preferably included 2 to 6, in particular 2 to 4; it is adjusted by acids, preferably phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids and / or dipicolinic acid. Within the scope of the method according to the invention it is possible and may be preferred to use a larger volume of the preparation (C) with comparatively lower H ₂ O ₂ concentrations, in particular in the range of 0.5-1, to use the required amount of H ₂ O ₂ , 5% by weight. Bromate-based fixatives usually contain the bromates in concentrations of 1 to 10% by weight and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. According to the invention, the use of fixative concentrates which are diluted with water before use can be particularly preferred. It is furthermore possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, the enzymes being used both for producing oxidizing per compounds and for enhancing the action of a small amount of oxidizing agents present, or else enzymes which use electrons from suitable Transfer developer components (reducing agents) to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase are preferred, but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase. Furthermore, the procedure should be mentioned to increase the effect of small amounts (e.g. 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.

The fixing agents according to the invention can of course also be formulated as solids. They then contain the oxidizing agent in the form of a solid, e.g. Potassium or sodium bromate. Only shortly before use, these agents are then mixed with water and / or a care component (B). It is also possible and preferred to formulate the oxidizing agent as a two-component system. The two components, one of which is preferably a hydrogen peroxide solution or an aqueous solution of another oxidizing agent and the other of which contains the other constituents, in particular caring substances and / or reducing agents, are likewise only mixed shortly before use.

In addition to the components mentioned in connection with the waving agent (AB), the fixing agents can contain, as surface-active compounds, cationic surfactants (E5) of the type of the quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 compounds imidazol. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex ^® , Dehyquart ^® and Armocare ^® . The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylarrimonium chloride, and Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats ,

The alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The cationic surfactants (E5) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.

Also suitable as conditioning agents are silicone oils and silicone gums, in particular dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs. Examples of such silicones are the Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 products sold and the commercial product Fancorsil ^® LIM first

Cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 939 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also known as a Amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; di-quaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80). A suitable anionic silicone oil is the product Dow Corning ^® 1784.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

- Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, for. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. B. polyvinyl alcohol,

hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,

- perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,

active ingredients that improve fiber structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,

- conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, e.g. B. sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil as well

quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,

- defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for coloring the agent,

- anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol,

- active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,

- cholesterol,

- consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

- fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,

- fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

- opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,

- pigments,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

- antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, e.g. B. referred to the above monograph by K. H. Schrader.

A second subject of the invention is a kit for use in a method according to the invention, consisting of a preparation (A) and a preparation (B) packaged separately.

A third subject of the invention is a kit for use in a method according to the invention, consisting of three separately packaged preparations (A), (B) and (C).

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.

Examples

Unless otherwise noted, all details are parts by weight

1. Long-term care wave

Reducing component A:

Ammomum thioglycolate (60% in water) 31.0

Ammonium bicarbonate 3.1

Ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 1.4

Propylene glycol - 1, 2 2.0

Cremophor ^® RH 40 ¹ 0.6

Eumulgin ^® L ² 0.6

Perfume 0.6

Tuφinal ^® SL ³ 0.3

Water ad 100 pH approx. 8.2

Care component B:

Wacker Belsil ^® ADM 6057 E ⁴ 2.0

Eumulgin L 1.2

Cremophor ^® RH 40 0.6

Perfume 0.6

Tuφinal SL 0.6

Merquat ^® 100 ⁵ 0.3

Sodium benzoate 0.1

Water ad IOC pH approx. 2.1

Fixing agent C:

Hydrogen peroxide (50% in water) 12.0 Dehyquart ^® A-CA ⁶ 0.5

Tuφinal ^® SL 1.6

Merquat ^® 100 0.3

Aromox ^® MCD-W ⁷ 1.0

Dipicolinic acid 0.1

Ammonia (25%) 0.5

Perfume oil, solubilizer 0.5 water ad 100

1 hydrogenated castor oil + 40-45 ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF)

2 ethoxylated and propoxylated C 16-18 fatty alcohol

3 l-hydroxyethane-l, l-diphosphonic acid (approx. 60% active substance in water; INCI name: Etidronic Acid (HENKEL)

4 Preparation with polydimethylsiloxane containing aminoalkyl groups (approx. 35% active substance in water; INCI name: Aqua, Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-10) (WACKER)

5 poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) (40% active substance; INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) (CHEMVIRON)

6 trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (approx. 25% active substance in water; INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (COGNIS)

7 N, N-dimethyl-N-cocoalkylamine-N-oxide (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name: Cocamine Oxide) (AKZO)

Components A and B are used to produce three AB mixtures according to the hair quality available immediately before use.

Normal hair:

46 ml of component A and 34 ml of component B are mixed. The mixture has a pH of about 7.9 and contains the equivalent of about 11% thioglycolic acid. The Wacker Belsil ^® ADM 6057 E content was determined as a parameter for the expected care performance. This value is approximately 0.85% by volume. The Mixture shows a good forming performance and good but not stressful care effect.

Colored hair:

33 ml of component A and 47 ml of component B are mixed. The mixture has a pH of about 7.7 and contains the equivalent of about 8% thioglycolic acid. The Wacker Belsil ^® ADM 6057 E content was determined as a parameter for the expected care performance. This value is approximately 1.18% by volume. When used, the mixture shows good reshaping performance and a very clear but not stressful care effect for the pre-loaded hair.

Bleached hair:

20 ml of component A and 60 ml of component B are mixed. The mixture has a pH of about 7.2 and contains the equivalent of about 4.9% thioglycolic acid. The Wacker Belsil ^® ADM 6057 E content was determined as a parameter for the expected care performance. This value is approx. 1.5 vol.%. The mixture shows a good forming performance and very high but not stressful care effect.

Application:

80 ml of the mixture AB were applied to the hair that was twisted on curlers. After an exposure time (approx. 15 minutes with heat supply for normal hair; 15-20 minutes without or 10-15 minutes with heat supply for colored hair; 8- 15 minutes without heat supply for bleached hair), the hair was rinsed thoroughly and excess moisture was removed dabbed in a towel. Then the hair was thoroughly rinsed with 340 ml of a mixture of 100 ml of fixative C and 400 ml of lukewarm water. After removing the curlers, the hair was moistened with the remaining 160 ml of the diluted fixative and then rinsed thoroughly with water.

Claims

Patent claims

1. A process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, in which the fiber is treated before and / or after mechanical deformation with an aqueous preparation (AB) of a keratin-reducing substance, optionally rinsed with water and / or an aqueous agent after an exposure time, then with an aqueous preparation (C) of an oxidizing agent and optionally rinsed after an exposure time and optionally aftertreated, characterized in that the aqueous preparation (AB) only before use by mixing an aqueous preparation (A) with a pH greater than or equal to 7 , which contains at least one keratin-reducing substance, and an aqueous preparation (B), which contains at least one care substance.

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the keratin-reducing substance is selected from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thio malic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and their salts and esters, cysteamine, cysteine, multicolored salts and salts of sulfurous acid and mixtures thereof.

3. The method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the pH value, wave power and maintenance performance of the preparation (AB) are adjusted simultaneously by mixing the preparation (A) and the preparation (B).

4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the preparation (AB) has a pH in the range from 6.5 - 8.5.

5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the preparation (B) has a pH value less than or equal to 7.

6. The method according to claim 5, characterized in that the pH of the preparation (B) is in the range of 1.0 - 2.5.

7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the preparation (B) is mixed with a preparation containing the oxidizing agent (Cl) to a ready-to-use preparation (C).

8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the preparation (B) contains vitamins and / or vitamin derivatives as a care substance.

9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the preparation (B) contains polymers (G) as a care substance.

10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the preparation (B) contains plant extracts as a care substance.

11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the preparation (C) is in the form of a concentrate which is diluted with water before use.

12. Kit for use in a method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it consists of a preparation (A) and a separately packaged preparation (B)

13. Kit for use in a method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it consists of three separately packaged preparations (A), (B) and (C).