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EP1296640B1 - Use as thickeners in cosmetics of neutralized copolymers comprising weak acid units and strong acid units - Google Patents

Use as thickeners in cosmetics of neutralized copolymers comprising weak acid units and strong acid units Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1296640B1
EP1296640B1 EP01947510A EP01947510A EP1296640B1 EP 1296640 B1 EP1296640 B1 EP 1296640B1 EP 01947510 A EP01947510 A EP 01947510A EP 01947510 A EP01947510 A EP 01947510A EP 1296640 B1 EP1296640 B1 EP 1296640B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
polymer
acid
cross
polymerisation
linking
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Revoked
Application number
EP01947510A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP1296640A1 (en
Inventor
Emmanuel c/o SNF SA VILLARD
Frédéric c/o SNF SA BLONDEL
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SPCM SA
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SNF SA
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14Preparations for removing make-up

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or veterinary and detergent compositions comprising at least one thickening and / or emulsifying polymer for aqueous medium.
  • Branched or crosslinked polymers based on acrylamido methylpropanesulphonic acid and on acryliane acid are thickeners and / or emulsifiers of acidic cosmetic composition. ( WO 99/36445 ).
  • the patent is still known EP 0 186 361 .
  • compositions having a thickening capacity with respect to aqueous compositions that can be used in cosmetics, dermatology, in the veterinary or pharmaceutical field, and similar areas of body care products, and in particular improving the feel and stability.
  • thickening compositions are sought both at acid pH and basic pH, and especially those effective at very acidic pH, in particular pH 1 - 3 approximately, which corresponds to a particular technical problem, which is not properly solved by the products of the prior art, despite significant demand from the industry.
  • thickening and / or emulsifying polymer a copolymer obtained by polymerization in the form of inverse emulsion as described in the patent.
  • thickening and / or emulsifying polymer a copolymer obtained by polymerization in the form of inverse emulsion as described in the patent.
  • EP 0,161,038 a copolymer obtained by polymerization in the form of inverse emulsion as described in the patent.
  • the invention relates to a family of thickening and / or emulsifying polymers of the type described in the patent EP 0 161 038 above, which makes it possible to thicken cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or veterinary compositions, both at acid pH and at basic pH, while at the same time providing the composition with optimal and never obtained cosmetic characteristics such as the touch and the stability of the viscosity. presence of electrolytes.
  • the use of this type of polymer can also be considered to thicken any type of aqueous media, such as detergency.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a particular selection of this family of copolymers as thickeners and / or emulsifiers (in whole or in part) of cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical, human or veterinary, or detergent compositions.
  • composition obtained has surprisingly optimal cosmetic characteristics with in particular a very high stability in the presence of electrolytes in a very wide range of pH (1-13) thanks to a suitable choice of the polymerization conditions of the thickening polymer and / or emulsifier (degree of neutralization, percentage of soluble polymers, molar ratio of strong acid / weak acid, concentration of active material) leading to the aforementioned fraction of soluble polymers.
  • polymers of the present application do not comprise neutral monomers, which is probably an important factor in obtaining the abovementioned advantages.
  • the polymers are additionally obtained in the presence of a crosslinking or branching agent and optionally a transfer agent.
  • the polymerization is carried out in water-in-oil inverse emulsion.
  • the degree of crosslinking is 50 to 3000 ppm (considering methylenebisacrylamide or MBA) relative to the polymer or equivalent crosslinking with a crosslinking agent of different efficiency, according to parameters known to those skilled in the art.
  • the polymer that would be obtained in the absence of crosslinking agent would have an intrinsic viscosity (I.V.) of 3 to 25 dl / g.
  • the polymerization concentration is from 15 to 55% by weight.
  • the polymerization is carried out optionally in the presence of a transfer agent.
  • the polymerization pH varies depending on the degree of neutralization. It is thus possible according to the invention to work at a pH where the corrosion problems of industrial equipment are reduced very clearly, to the point that special equipment is not necessary. In particular, we will work at pH> 4 in polymerization, preferably 4.2-4.5, noting that below pH 4 (and although the pH difference in absolute value may seem very low), special anti-corrosion equipment is required. Thus the (non-limiting) possibility offered by the invention to work at polymerization pH of slightly more than 4 represents another interesting and surprising technical threshold.
  • the composition obtained surprisingly has optimal cosmetic characteristics such as the touch. and stability in a very wide range of pH (1-13), while maintaining a very strong and very effective thickening power, even at very acidic pH, especially at pH 1 - 3 approximately.
  • the degree of neutralization (at the time of polymerization) of all the unsaturated acids is preferably from 10 to 80%.
  • crosslinking agent or branching agent and optionally a transfer agent is incorporated.
  • the degree of crosslinking is preferably between 100 and 800 ppm (considering the MBA) relative to the polymer or equivalent crosslinking with a crosslinking agent of different effectiveness.
  • the intrinsic viscosity I.V. of the polymer obtained is preferably 4 to 20 dl / g
  • the polymerization concentration is preferably from 25 to 45% of active material by weight.
  • the overall neutralization rate of the monomers having an acid function is between 20 and 90% at the polymerization
  • the continuous phase used may be an oil or a solvent of mineral origin and / or of synthesis and / or of plant origin.
  • a solvent or a non-mineral oil will be used.
  • crosslinkers methylenebisacrylamide (MBA), ethylene glycol di-acrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diacrylamide, cyanomethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylacrylate or methacrylate and formaldehyde, glyoxal, compounds of the type glycidyl ether such as ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, or epoxy or any other means well known to those skilled in the art for crosslinking.
  • MBA methylenebisacrylamide
  • ethylene glycol di-acrylate polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate
  • diacrylamide diacrylamide
  • cyanomethylacrylate vinyloxyethylacrylate or methacrylate and formaldehyde
  • glyoxal compounds of the type glycidyl ether such as ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, or epoxy or any other means well known to those skilled in the art for crosslinking.
  • P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6 X % molar AMPS (strong acid) 60 60 60 40 50 90 57 % molar Ac.
  • Acrylic (weak acid) 40 40 40 60 50 10 43 % Neutralization (total) 70 50 3 6 55 60 70 57 % Active ingredient 35 35 30 30 30 30 35 38 % Water Soluble Polymer 17 6 15 10 28 20 3 QC1 (viscosity measurement at pH 3) 6000 16500 12000 3250 4500 12500 12000 QC2 (viscosity drop by addition of salts) 54 70 43 54 44 60 99.9
  • the fraction of water-soluble polymers may therefore preferably be between 6 and 35%, and even more preferably between 8 and 30% -35%.
  • Example 1 base for a gel / cream, pH 3.6:
  • Example 2 silicone lotion, pH 6:
  • Component A Ingredients are incorporated in the order listed. Component A, the preservatives and the perfume are then added with stirring.
  • Example 3 capillary cream base, pH 5:
  • Component B is poured into the water. The oil is then added with stirring. As soon as the preparation is homogeneous, the preservatives and the perfume are added. The pH is adjusted to 5.
  • Oily phase caprylic / capric triglyceride 6% Sweet almond oil (Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis) 2% Component A 4% conservatives Q S Perfume Q S
  • the aqueous phase is prepared.
  • the oily phase is then incorporated.
  • Component A is then added with stirring, followed by the preservatives and the perfume.
  • Example 5 oil / water emulsion base, pH 4.2:
  • the mixture is then brought back to room temperature in order to add the preservatives and the perfume.
  • the pH is then adjusted.
  • Example 6 base for a gel / cream, pH 10:
  • Component A is poured into the water.
  • the pH is adjusted to 10.
  • the preservatives and the perfume are then added with stirring.
  • the thickening and / or emulsifying polymers as defined can be incorporated at any temperature. They also offer great flexibility as to the incorporation step.
  • Each of the final compositions tested has optimal cosmetic characteristics such as feel and stability.
  • the touches resulting from the various formulations are unctuous: at the time of application, the texture of the composition of the invention "breaks" less rapidly, which makes it possible to avoid a touch that is too “aqueous” (which looks like water), unattractive to the consumer, especially in terms of efficiency and comfort of the composition.
  • This property also makes it possible to prevent the composition applied to the surface of the skin, hair, nails or hair from flowing too quickly. It is then easier to control the application and the spread of the composition on the surface to be treated.
  • a polymer in the form of a powder is an additional choice. It makes it possible to benefit from the properties of the polymer as described above while avoiding the presence of the oily phase (solvent of the polymer) in the final composition. This possibility offers additional diversity to meet new technical and / or marketing requirements.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Addition Polymer Or Copolymer, Post-Treatments, Or Chemical Modifications (AREA)

Abstract

This invention relates to a cosmetic, dermatologic, pharmaceutical, or veterinary composition comprising at least one thickening and/or emulsifying polymer for an aqueous medium, such composition being obtained by polymerization: at least one unsaturated weak acid and at least one unsaturated strong acid such as AMPS, in the presence of a cross-linking or branching agent and optionally of a transfer agent and characterized by a water-soluble polymer fraction ranging from 5 to 50 percent by weight, preferably 8 to 35 percent. These acids are partially neutralized at the time of polymerization. The composition obtained surprisingly exhibits optimal cosmetic characteristics, in particular very high stability in the presence of electrolytes over a very wide pH range (1-13) as a result of selection of suitable polymerization conditions for the thickening and/or emulsifying polymer (neutralization rate, active matter concentration, strong/weak acid molar ratio).

Description

La présente invention concerne le secteur technique des compositions cosmétiques, dermatologiques, pharmaceutiques ou vétérinaires, et détergentes, comprenant au moins un polymère épaississant et / ou émulsionnant pour milieu aqueux.The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or veterinary and detergent compositions comprising at least one thickening and / or emulsifying polymer for aqueous medium.

On connaît dans l'art antérieur :

  • L'utilisation de polymères réticulés pour élever la viscosité de produits cosmétiques, pharmaceutiques ou techniques ( FR 2,416,723 )
  • L'utilisation d'une dispersion de polymère comme épaississant de pâte d'impression pour textile ( EP 0,161,038 )
  • Les compositions comprenant un polymère épaississant à base de monomères non ioniques tels que l'acrylamide, anioniques tels que l'acide acrylique ou cationiques, gonflant à l'eau. Les polymères sont obtenus sous forme d'émulsion inverse. Sont citées entre autres des applications comme les cosmétiques et surtout les impressions textiles ou sur moquette ( GB 2,077,750 )
  • Les polymères épaississants obtenus sous forme d'émulsion inverse à base d'acides forts ( US 4,172,066 )
  • Le brevet EP 0 503 853 qui concerne un épaississant à base d'AMPS et d'acrylamide.
  • L'utilisation d'un monomère possédant un acide fort spécifiquement pour épaissir des milieux acides (application pétrole) ( GB 2,110,744 )
  • Le procédé de préparation d'une composition sous forme de latex inverse d'un polyélectrolyte (homopolymère) anionique, branché ou réticulé, à base d'un monomère possédant une fonction acide fort ( WO 99/42521 ).
It is known in the prior art:
  • The use of cross-linked polymers to increase the viscosity of cosmetic, pharmaceutical or technical products ( FR 2,416,723 )
  • The use of a polymer dispersion as a thickener for a textile printing paste ( EP 0,161,038 )
  • Compositions comprising a thickening polymer based on nonionic monomers such as acrylamide, anionic such as acrylic acid or cationic, swelling with water. The polymers are obtained in the form of an inverse emulsion. Examples include applications such as cosmetics and especially textile or carpet printing ( GB 2,077,750 )
  • Thickening polymers obtained in the form of an inverse emulsion based on strong acids ( US 4,172,066 )
  • The patent EP 0 503 853 which relates to a thickener based on AMPS and acrylamide.
  • The use of a monomer having a strong acid specifically for thickening acidic media (petroleum application) ( GB 2,110,744 )
  • The process for preparing a composition in the form of an inverse latex of an anionic, branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte (homopolymer), based on a monomer having a strong acid function ( WO 99/42521 ).

Des polymères branchés ou réticulés à base d'acide acrylamido méthylpropane sulfonique et d'acide acryliane sont des épaississants et/ou émulsionnants de composition cosmétiques acides. ( WO 99/36445 ).Branched or crosslinked polymers based on acrylamido methylpropanesulphonic acid and on acryliane acid are thickeners and / or emulsifiers of acidic cosmetic composition. ( WO 99/36445 ).

On connaît encore le brevet EP 0 186 361 .The patent is still known EP 0 186 361 .

Un problème technique extrêmement important dans l'industrie considérée consiste à apporter à la composition finale certaines propriétés intéressantes comme le toucher et la stabilité de la viscosité en présence d'électrolytes. Une forte demande existe, dont la solution n'a pas été apportée de manière satisfaisante par l'art antérieur.An extremely important technical problem in the industry concerned is to provide the final composition with some interesting properties such as touch and stability of the viscosity in the presence of electrolytes. A strong demand exists, the solution of which has not been satisfactorily provided by the prior art.

Le problème technique correspondant est donc de rechercher des compositions présentant une capacité épaississante vis à vis de compositions aqueuses utilisables en cosmétique, dermatologie, dans le domaine vétérinaire ou pharmaceutique, et domaines analogues de produits de soins corporels, et notamment améliorant le toucher et la stabilité.The corresponding technical problem is therefore to find compositions having a thickening capacity with respect to aqueous compositions that can be used in cosmetics, dermatology, in the veterinary or pharmaceutical field, and similar areas of body care products, and in particular improving the feel and stability. .

Plus particulièrement, on recherche des compositions épaississantes aussi bien à pH acide qu'à pH basique, et notamment celles efficaces à pH très acide, notamment pH 1 - 3 environ, ce qui correspond à un problème technique particulier, qui n'est pas correctement résolu par les produits de l'art antérieur, malgré une demande importante de l'industrie.More particularly, thickening compositions are sought both at acid pH and basic pH, and especially those effective at very acidic pH, in particular pH 1 - 3 approximately, which corresponds to a particular technical problem, which is not properly solved by the products of the prior art, despite significant demand from the industry.

On entend, dans toute la présente demande par « polymère épaississant et/ou émulsionnant », un copolymère obtenu par polymérisation sous forme d'émulsion inverse tel que décrit dans le brevet EP 0,161,038 .It is meant throughout the present application by "thickening and / or emulsifying polymer", a copolymer obtained by polymerization in the form of inverse emulsion as described in the patent. EP 0,161,038 .

Cependant, il reste encore à améliorer la stabilité de la composition en présence d'électrolytes. En effet, la viscosité (et donc la consistance) du produit final a tendance à chuter fortement au contact des électrolytes, par exemple de la peau. Il en résulte des inconvénients de confort d'utilisation et de performances.However, it remains to improve the stability of the composition in the presence of electrolytes. Indeed, the viscosity (and therefore the consistency) of the final product tends to fall sharply in contact with the electrolytes, for example the skin. This results in disadvantages of comfort of use and performance.

Un problème technique encore plus fin et extrêmement important dans l'industrie considérée consiste donc à apporter à la composition finale certaines propriétés intéressantes comme la stabilité aux électrolytes. Une forte demande existe, dont la solution n'a pas été apportée de manière satisfaisante par l'art antérieur. Ainsi lorsque des caractéristiques dites « de toucher très frais » sont décrites, elles sont en fait la résultante directe d'une mauvaise tenue de la viscosité du polymère en présence d'électrolytes.An even more delicate and extremely important technical problem in the industry under consideration is therefore to provide the final composition with some interesting properties such as electrolyte stability. A strong demand exists, the solution of which has not been satisfactorily provided by the prior art. Thus, when characteristics called "very cool touch" are described, they are in fact the direct result of poor behavior of the viscosity of the polymer in the presence of electrolytes.

L'invention concerne une famille de polymères épaississants et/ou émulsionnants du type de celle décrite dans le brevet EP 0 161 038 précité, qui permet d'épaissir des compositions cosmétiques, dermatologiques, pharmaceutiques ou vétérinaires aussi bien à pH acide qu'à pH basique tout en apportant à la composition des caractéristiques cosmétiques optimales et jamais obtenues telles que le toucher et la stabilité de la viscosité en présence d'électrolytes. L'utilisation de ce type de polymères peut également être envisagée pour épaissir tout type de milieux aqueux, comme par exemple en détergence.The invention relates to a family of thickening and / or emulsifying polymers of the type described in the patent EP 0 161 038 above, which makes it possible to thicken cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical or veterinary compositions, both at acid pH and at basic pH, while at the same time providing the composition with optimal and never obtained cosmetic characteristics such as the touch and the stability of the viscosity. presence of electrolytes. The use of this type of polymer can also be considered to thicken any type of aqueous media, such as detergency.

La présente invention concerne l'utilisation d'une sélection particulière de cette famille de copolymères comme agents épaississants et / ou émulsionnants ( en totalité ou en partie) de compositions cosmétiques, dermatologiques, pharmaceutiques, à usage humain ou vétérinaire, ou détergentes.The present invention relates to the use of a particular selection of this family of copolymers as thickeners and / or emulsifiers (in whole or in part) of cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical, human or veterinary, or detergent compositions.

La composition obtenue présente de manière surprenante des caractéristiques cosmétiques optimales avec en particulier une très grande stabilité en présence d'électrolytes dans une gamme très large de pH (1-13) grâce à un choix approprié des conditions de polymérisation du polymère épaississant et/ou émulsionnant (taux de neutralisation, pourcentage de polymères solubles, rapport molaire acide fort/acide faible, concentration en matière active) conduisant à la fraction de polymères solubles précitée.The composition obtained has surprisingly optimal cosmetic characteristics with in particular a very high stability in the presence of electrolytes in a very wide range of pH (1-13) thanks to a suitable choice of the polymerization conditions of the thickening polymer and / or emulsifier (degree of neutralization, percentage of soluble polymers, molar ratio of strong acid / weak acid, concentration of active material) leading to the aforementioned fraction of soluble polymers.

L'invention concerne donc l'utilisation comme épaississant et / ou émulsionnant pour milieux aqueux (en totalité ou en partie) de compositions cosmétiques, dermatologiques, pharmaceutiques, à usage humain ou vétérinaire, ou détergentes, d'au moins un polymère obtenu par polymérisation de:

  • 5 à 95% molaire d'au moins un monomère possédant une fonction acide faible, et de
  • 5 à 95% molaire d'au moins un monomère possédant une fonction acide fort et
  • caractérisé en ce qu'il présente une fraction de polymères hydrosolubles comprise entre 5 et 50% en poids (par rapport au polymère total ), de préférence entre 8 et 35%, la méthode de détermination de la fraction hydrosoluble étant la suivante :
    • la méthode est basée sur la séparation des microgels de polymère réticulé d'avec une solution de polymère, par centrifugation, et la teneur en polymère est déterminée avant et après par titration de colloides, sur la base de la précipitation stoechiométrique de particules colloidales chargées par titration par un polymère de charge opposée, en utilisant un indicateur visuel,
    et en ce que, au momemt de la polymérisation, la neutralisation de la globalité des monomères possédant une fonction acide est partielle et comprise entre 5 et 95%.
The invention therefore relates to the use as thickener and / or emulsifier for aqueous media (in whole or in part) of cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical, human or veterinary or detergent compositions, of at least one polymer obtained by polymerization. of:
  • 5 to 95 mol% of at least one monomer having a weak acid function, and
  • 5 to 95 mol% of at least one monomer having a strong acid function and
  • characterized in that it has a water-soluble polymer fraction of between 5 and 50% by weight (relative to the total polymer), preferably between 8 and 35%, the method for determining the water-soluble fraction being as follows:
    • the method is based on the separation of the cross-linked polymer microgels from a polymer solution, by centrifugation, and the polymer content is determined before and after by titration of colloids, on the basis of the stoichiometric precipitation of colloidal particles loaded by titration by an oppositely charged polymer, using a visual indicator,
    and in that, at the time of the polymerization, the neutralization of the entirety of the monomers having an acid function is partial and between 5 and 95%.

Sans vouloir être liée par une quelconque théorie, la Demanderesse considère que cette caractéristique extrêmement importante au plan industriel et commercial réside de la proportion élevée de polymères hydrosolubles.While not wishing to be bound by any theory, the Applicant considers that this feature which is extremely important from an industrial and commercial standpoint lies in the high proportion of water-soluble polymers.

Les produits commerciaux les plus proches, qui déclarent « un toucher frais », donc une médiocre résistance aux électrolytes de la peau, ne dépassent pas 2 à 3 % de polymères hydrosolubles. Il semble donc exister un seuil de propriétés autour de 5% (cf. essai selon l'invention à 6 %). (les essais selon l'invention sont des moyennes de trois essais, afin de réduire la marge d'erreur au maximum).The closest commercial products that report "cool touch", and therefore poor skin electrolyte resistance, do not exceed 2-3% of water-soluble polymers. It therefore seems to exist a threshold of properties around 5% (see test according to the invention at 6%). (The tests according to the invention are averages of three tests, in order to reduce the margin of error to the maximum).

On note par ailleurs que les polymères de la présente demande, ne comportent pas de monomères neutres, ce qui est probablement un facteur important dans l'obtention des avantages précités.It should also be noted that the polymers of the present application do not comprise neutral monomers, which is probably an important factor in obtaining the abovementioned advantages.

Selon un mode de réalisation absolument préféré, les polymères sont obtenus de plus en présence d'un agent réticulant ou ramifiant et éventuellement d'un agent de transfert.According to a most preferred embodiment, the polymers are additionally obtained in the presence of a crosslinking or branching agent and optionally a transfer agent.

Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, la polymérisation est effectuée en émulsion inverse eau dans huile.According to a preferred embodiment, the polymerization is carried out in water-in-oil inverse emulsion.

Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, le taux de réticulation (ou ramification selon les cas) est de 50 à 3000 ppm (en considérant le méthylènebisacrylamide ou MBA) par rapport au polymère ou une réticulation équivalente avec un agent réticulant d'efficacité différente, selon des paramètres connus de l'homme de métier.According to a preferred embodiment, the degree of crosslinking (or branching depending on the case) is 50 to 3000 ppm (considering methylenebisacrylamide or MBA) relative to the polymer or equivalent crosslinking with a crosslinking agent of different efficiency, according to parameters known to those skilled in the art.

Dans les mêmes conditions, le polymère qui serait obtenu en l'absence d'agent de réticulation aurait une viscosité intrinsèque (I.V.) de 3 à 25 dl/g.Under the same conditions, the polymer that would be obtained in the absence of crosslinking agent would have an intrinsic viscosity (I.V.) of 3 to 25 dl / g.

Selon un autre mode de réalisation, la concentration de polymérisation est de 15 à 55 % en poids.According to another embodiment, the polymerization concentration is from 15 to 55% by weight.

Selon encore un autre mode de réalisation, la polymérisation est menée éventuellement en présence d'un agent de transfert.According to yet another embodiment, the polymerization is carried out optionally in the presence of a transfer agent.

L'homme de métier saura apprécier à partir de ses connaissances propres le degré d'agent de transfert et d'agent réticulant ou ramifiant à utiliser pour obtenir un polymère ramifié ou réticulé. L'homme de métier connaît également la définition chimique de ces deux catégories de polymères, de nombreux ouvrages et brevets antérieurs traitant de tels polymères. On indiquera simplement dans la présente demande « réticulé ou ramifié » ou « réticulé » et vocables analogues, pour rappeler ce qui précède.Those skilled in the art will appreciate from their own knowledge the degree of transfer agent and crosslinking agent or branching to use to obtain a branched or crosslinked polymer. Those skilled in the art also know the chemical definition of these two categories of polymers, many previous books and patents dealing with such polymers. We will simply indicate in the present application "crosslinked or branched" or "crosslinked" and similar terms, to recall the foregoing.

Il est de plus essentiel qu'au moment de la polymérisation la neutralisation de la globalité des monomères possédant une fonction acide soit partielle et comprise entre 5 et 95%. Le pH de polymérisation varie en fonction du taux de neutralisation. Il est ainsi possible selon l'invention de travailler à un pH où les problèmes de corrosion des équipements industriels sont réduits très nettement, au point que des équipements spéciaux ne sont pas nécessaires. On travaillera notamment à pH > 4 en polymérisation, de préférence 4,2 - 4,5, en notant que, au dessous de pH 4 (et bien que la différence de pH en valeur absolue puisse sembler très faible), des équipements spéciaux anti-corrosion sont nécessaires. Ainsi la possibilité (non limitative) offerte par l'invention de travailler à des pH de polymérisation de légèrement plus de 4 représente un autre seuil technique intéressant et surprenant.It is moreover essential that at the time of the polymerization the neutralization of the entirety of the monomers having an acid function is partial and between 5 and 95%. The polymerization pH varies depending on the degree of neutralization. It is thus possible according to the invention to work at a pH where the corrosion problems of industrial equipment are reduced very clearly, to the point that special equipment is not necessary. In particular, we will work at pH> 4 in polymerization, preferably 4.2-4.5, noting that below pH 4 (and although the pH difference in absolute value may seem very low), special anti-corrosion equipment is required. Thus the (non-limiting) possibility offered by the invention to work at polymerization pH of slightly more than 4 represents another interesting and surprising technical threshold.

Grâce à ce choix approprié des conditions de polymérisation du polymère épaississant et/ou émulsionnant (taux de neutralisation, concentration en matière active, rapport molaire acide fort/acide faible), la composition obtenue présente de manière surprenante des caractéristiques cosmétiques optimales telles que le toucher et la stabilité dans une gamme très large de pH (1-13), tout en conservant un très fort et très efficace pouvoir épaississant, même à pH très acide, notamment même à pH 1 - 3 environ.By virtue of this appropriate choice of the polymerization conditions of the thickening and / or emulsifying polymer (neutralization rate, concentration of active ingredient, strong acid / weak acid molar ratio), the composition obtained surprisingly has optimal cosmetic characteristics such as the touch. and stability in a very wide range of pH (1-13), while maintaining a very strong and very effective thickening power, even at very acidic pH, especially at pH 1 - 3 approximately.

Une optimisation des conditions de polymérisation sera accessible à l'homme de métier à la lecture de la présente description et selon ses connaissances personnelles, ou à l'aide d'essais simples de routine.An optimization of the polymerization conditions will be accessible to those skilled in the art upon reading the present description and according to his personal knowledge, or with the aid of simple routine tests.

Il est, de plus, également possible de concentrer ou d'isoler le polymère par toutes les techniques connues.It is also possible to concentrate or isolate the polymer by any known technique.

Il existe en particulier de nombreux procédés d'obtention de poudre à partir d'émulsions de polymères solubles ou gonflant dans l'eau qui consistent à isoler la matière active des autres constituants de l'émulsion. De manière non limitative, il est possible de citer les techniques telles que :

  • La précipitation dans un milieu non solvant tel que l'acétone, le méthanol et autres solvants polaires. Une simple filtration permet alors d'isoler la particule de polymère.
  • La distillation azéotropique en présence d'agent agglomérant et de polymère stabilisant qui permet de conduire à des agglomérats que l'on isole facilement par filtration avant de procéder au séchage de la particule.
  • Le « spray-drying » ou séchage par atomisation ou pulvérisation qui consiste à créer un nuage de fines gouttelettes d'émulsion dans un courant d'air chaud, pendant une durée contrôlée.
In particular, there are numerous processes for obtaining powder from soluble or water-swellable polymer emulsions which consist in isolating the active material from the other constituents of the emulsion. In a non-limiting way, it is possible to mention techniques such as:
  • Precipitation in a non-solvent medium such as acetone, methanol and other polar solvents. A simple filtration then makes it possible to isolate the polymer particle.
  • Azeotropic distillation in the presence of agglomerating agent and stabilizing polymer which leads to agglomerates which are easily isolated by filtration before drying the particle.
  • "Spray drying" or spray drying which consists in creating a cloud of fine emulsion droplets in a stream of hot air for a controlled period of time.

Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, le copolymère est obtenu à partir de :

  • 10 à 80% molaire d'au moins un monomère possédant une fonction acide faible
  • et de 20 à 90% molaire d'au moins un monomère possédant une fonction acide fort.
According to a preferred embodiment, the copolymer is obtained from:
  • 10 to 80 mol% of at least one monomer having a weak acid function
  • and 20 to 90 mol% of at least one monomer having a strong acid function.

Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le taux de neutralisation (au moment de la polymérisation) de l'ensemble des acides insaturés est de préférence de 10 à 80%.According to a particular embodiment, the degree of neutralization (at the time of polymerization) of all the unsaturated acids is preferably from 10 to 80%.

De manière tout à fait préférée, on incorpore un agent de réticulation ou de ramification et éventuellement un agent de transfert.Most preferably, a crosslinking agent or branching agent and optionally a transfer agent is incorporated.

Selon encore un mode de réalisation particulier, le taux de réticulation est situé de préférence entre 100 et 800 ppm (en considérant le MBA) par rapport au polymère ou une réticulation équivalente avec un agent réticulant d'efficacité différente.According to another particular embodiment, the degree of crosslinking is preferably between 100 and 800 ppm (considering the MBA) relative to the polymer or equivalent crosslinking with a crosslinking agent of different effectiveness.

En l'absence d'agent de réticulation, la viscosité intrinsèque I.V. du polymère obtenu est de préférence 4 à 20 dl/gIn the absence of crosslinking agent, the intrinsic viscosity I.V. of the polymer obtained is preferably 4 to 20 dl / g

La concentration de polymérisation est de préférence de 25 à 45% de matière active en poids.The polymerization concentration is preferably from 25 to 45% of active material by weight.

Le taux global de neutralisation des monomères possédant une fonction acide est compris entre 20 et 90% à la polymérisationThe overall neutralization rate of the monomers having an acid function is between 20 and 90% at the polymerization

Lors de la polymérisation sous forme d'émulsion eau dans huile, la phase continue utilisée peut être une huile ou un solvant d'origine minérale et/ou de synthèse et/ou d'origine végétale. De préférence, on utilisera un solvant ou une huile non minérale.During the polymerization in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, the continuous phase used may be an oil or a solvent of mineral origin and / or of synthesis and / or of plant origin. Preferably, a solvent or a non-mineral oil will be used.

On trouvera ci dessous une liste non limitative des monomères de type acide fort :

  • monomères présentant une fonction de type acide sulfonique, acide phosphonique, par exemple : l'acide 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonique (AMPS).
The following is a non-limiting list of strong acid monomers:
  • monomers having a function of sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid type, for example: 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS).

On trouvera ci-dessous une liste non limitative des monomères présentant une fonction acide faible : l'acide acrylique, l'acide méthacrylique, l'acide itaconique, l'acide crotonique, l'acide maléique, l'acide fumarique, etc...Below is a nonlimiting list of monomers with weak acid function: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, etc. .

On trouvera ci dessous une liste non limitative des réticulants : méthylènebisacrylamide (MBA), l'ethylene glycol di-acrylate, le polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, le diacrylamide, le cyanomethylacrylate, le vinyloxyethylacrylate ou methacrylate et le formaldehyde, le glyoxal, les composés de type glycidyléther comme l'éthylèneglycol diglycidyléther, ou des époxy ou tout autre moyen bien connu de l'homme de métier permettant la réticulation.The following is a nonlimiting list of crosslinkers: methylenebisacrylamide (MBA), ethylene glycol di-acrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diacrylamide, cyanomethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylacrylate or methacrylate and formaldehyde, glyoxal, compounds of the type glycidyl ether such as ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, or epoxy or any other means well known to those skilled in the art for crosslinking.

On trouvera ci dessous une liste non limitative des agents de transfert : alcool isopropylique, hypophosphite de sodium, mercaptoethanol etc...Below is a non-exhaustive list of transfer agents: isopropyl alcohol, sodium hypophosphite, mercaptoethanol, etc.

On aura compris qu'il sera à la portée de l'homme de métier de sélectionner, dans les conditions et plages de mise en oeuvre ci-dessus, les conditions optimales telles que le polymère final présente une fraction de polymère hydrosoluble comprise entre 5 et 50 % en poids par rapport au polymère total (suivant une méthode de dosage du type de celle décrite p 8 du brevet EP 0 343 840 ), (A). L'homme de métier saura notamment apprécier à partir de ses connaissances propres le degré d'agent de transfert et d'agent réticulant ou ramifiant à utiliser pour obtenir un polymère final présentant une fraction de polymère hydrosoluble suffisante, et le taux de neutralisation à choisir pour obtenir un pH de polymérisation légèrement supérieur à 4 (s'il le souhaite).It will be understood that it will be within the abilities of those skilled in the art to select, under the conditions and ranges of implementation above, the optimum conditions such that the final polymer has a water-soluble polymer fraction of between 5 and 50% by weight relative to the total polymer (according to a method of assay of the type of that described p 8 of the patent EP 0 343 840 ), (AT). The skilled person will appreciate in particular from his own knowledge the degree of transfer agent and crosslinking or branching agent to be used to obtain a final polymer having a sufficient water-soluble polymer fraction, and the degree of neutralization to choose to obtain a polymerization pH slightly above 4 (if desired).

L'homme de métier saura choisir la meilleure combinaison en fonction de ses connaissances propres et de la présente description, ainsi que des exemples qui vont suivre.The skilled person will choose the best combination based on his own knowledge and the present description, as well as examples that follow.

Exemples de polymères :Examples of polymers:

Chacun des polymères décrits ci-après a été obtenu par polymérisation sous forme d'émulsion inverse telle que décrite dans le brevet EP 0,161,038 . Pour mieux pouvoir les comparer, les taux de réticulant et d'agent limiteur ont été gardés constants.Each of the polymers described below was obtained by polymerization in the form of an inverse emulsion as described in the patent. EP 0,161,038 . To better compare them, the levels of crosslinking agent and limiting agent were kept constant.

Il apparaît à la vue des résultats obtenus que le comportement (pouvoir épaississant et capacité de résistance aux électrolytes) est directement fonction des conditions de polymérisation et en particulier du taux de neutralisation et du rapport molaire acide fort/acide faible.It appears from the results obtained that the behavior (thickening power and electrolyte resistance capacity) is directly a function of the polymerization conditions and in particular the neutralization rate and the strong acid / weak acid molar ratio.

Le choix du polymère utilisé est ensuite fonction des caractéristiques requises pour la composition finale. P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6 X % molaire AMPS (acide fort) 60 60 60 40 50 90 57 % molaire Ac. Acrylique (acide faible) 40 40 40 60 50 10 43 % Neutralisation (total) 70 50 3 6 55 60 70 57 % Matière Active 35 35 30 30 30 35 38 % Polymère Hydrosoluble 17 6 15 10 28 20 3 QC1 (mesure de viscosité à pH=3) 6000 16500 12000 3250 4500 12500 12000 QC2 (chute de viscosité par ajout de sels) 54 70 43 54 44 60 99,9 The choice of the polymer used is then a function of the characteristics required for the final composition. P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6 X % molar AMPS (strong acid) 60 60 60 40 50 90 57 % molar Ac. Acrylic (weak acid) 40 40 40 60 50 10 43 % Neutralization (total) 70 50 3 6 55 60 70 57 % Active ingredient 35 35 30 30 30 35 38 % Water Soluble Polymer 17 6 15 10 28 20 3 QC1 (viscosity measurement at pH = 3) 6000 16500 12000 3250 4500 12500 12000 QC2 (viscosity drop by addition of salts) 54 70 43 54 44 60 99.9

Il serait sans doute possible techniquement d'augmenter la proportion de polymères hydrosolubles au delà de 28 %, mais sans grand intérêt, car semble que l'on atteigne la limite du compromis autour de 25 - 30 - 35 % environ, en fonction des détails d'application.It would probably be technically possible to increase the proportion of water-soluble polymers above 28%, but without great interest, because it seems that the limit of the compromise is reached around 25 - 30 - 35%, depending on the details. application.

Par contre, comme déjà indiqué, il existe manifestement un seuil de propriété entre les produits connus (à 2 - 3 %) et l'exemple de l'invention à 6 %.On the other hand, as already indicated, there is clearly a property threshold between the known products (at 2 - 3%) and the example of the invention at 6%.

Il est d'ailleurs tout à fait surprenant qu'un tel seuil brutal existe entre 3 et 6 %, qui n'était ni prévisible ni logique.It is also quite surprising that such a brutal threshold exists between 3 and 6%, which was neither predictable nor logical.

La fraction de polymères hydrosolubles pourra donc être de préférence entre 6 et 35 %, et encore de préférence entre 8 et 30 -35%.The fraction of water-soluble polymers may therefore preferably be between 6 and 35%, and even more preferably between 8 and 30% -35%.

QC1 : mesure de viscosité à pH=3

  • Préparation d'une solution A à 1% en poids de matière active dans de l'eau déionisée puis ajustement du pH entre 2,9 et 3,1 en utilisant de l'acide chlorhydrique 1 N
  • Mesure de la viscosité n°1 à l'aide d'un viscosimètre Brookfield de type RVT : les valeurs obtenues sont en centipoises
QC1: viscosity measurement at pH = 3
  • Preparation of a solution A at 1% by weight of active ingredient in deionized water and then adjusting the pH between 2.9 and 3.1 using 1N hydrochloric acid
  • Measurement of the viscosity No. 1 using a RVT type Brookfield viscometer: the values obtained are in centipoises

QC2: chute de viscosité par ajout de sels

  • On ajoute à la solution A une solution saline (à 70 g/l de NaCl) afin d'obtenir une concentration finale en sel de 1 % massique par rapport à la matière active (polymère)
  • Mesure de la viscosité n°2 à l'aide d'un viscosimètre Brookfield de type RVT : les valeurs obtenues sont en centipoises
  • La chute de viscosité est calculée ainsi : Chute de viscosité % = 100 × viscosité 1 - viscosité 2 / viscosité 1
    Figure imgb0001
QC2: drop in viscosity by addition of salts
  • A solution of saline (at 70 g / l of NaCl) is added to solution A in order to obtain a final salt concentration of 1% by mass relative to the active ingredient (polymer).
  • Measurement of viscosity No. 2 using a Brookfield viscometer of the RVT type: the values obtained are in centipoises
  • The drop in viscosity is calculated as follows: Drop of viscosity % = 100 × viscosity 1 - viscosity 2 / viscosity 1
    Figure imgb0001

On peut constater que de manière surprenante les produits des exemples P1 à P6 présentent une bonne stabilité de leur viscosité en présence d'électrolytes, ce qui n'est pas le cas du produit X. Le taux de polymère hydrosoluble apparaît comme jouant un rôle primordial. Compte tenu de cette bonne résistance, les polymères de cette invention conservent une viscosité élevée même à pH extrêmement acide et ce contrairement aux produits connus sur le marché.It can be noted that, surprisingly, the products of Examples P1 to P6 exhibit good stability of their viscosity in the presence of electrolytes, which is not the case for product X. The level of water-soluble polymer appears to play a primordial role. . Given this good resistance, the polymers of this invention retain a high viscosity even at extremely acidic pH, unlike products known on the market.

Exemples de compositions :Examples of compositions:

Dans le cadre des exemples de compositions, les deux polymères utilisés correspondent au polymère décrit précédemment sous l'appellation P1. Ce polymère a été choisi car il présente un bon compromis entre les valeurs QC1 et QC2. Toutefois, il est tout à fait envisageable d'utiliser également l'un ou l'autre des polymères présentés, cette sélection dépendant uniquement des caractéristiques finales requises pour la composition.

  • Composant A : copolymère réticulé de type P1 comprenant 60% d'AMPS et 40% d'acide acrylique utilisé sous forme d'émulsion distillée contenant 62,6% de polymère
  • Composant B : même polymère que le polymère A utilisé sous forme de poudre obtenue par « spray-drying »
In the context of the examples of compositions, the two polymers used correspond to the polymer previously described under the name P1. This polymer was chosen because it shows a good compromise between the QC1 and QC2 values. However, it is quite possible to use also one or other of the polymers presented, this selection depending only on the final characteristics required for the composition.
  • Component A: P1 type crosslinked copolymer comprising 60% of AMPS and 40% of acrylic acid used in the form of a distilled emulsion containing 62.6% of polymer
  • Component B: same polymer as polymer A used in powder form obtained by "spray-drying"

Les noms des ingrédients utilisés dans les compositions sont ceux référencés sous la nomenclature INCl (« International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients»).The names of the ingredients used in the compositions are those referenced under the INCl nomenclature ("International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients").

Exemple 1 : base pour un gel / crème, pH 3,6 :Example 1: base for a gel / cream, pH 3.6:

% en poids% in weight Phase aqueuse :Aqueous phase : glycérineglycerin 2%2% eau (aqua)water (aqua) QSP 100QSP 100 acide citriquecitric acid QS pH = 3,5QS pH = 3.5 Composant AComponent A 3%3% conservateurspreservatives Q SQ S parfumperfume Q SQ S acide citriquecitric acid QS pH final = 3,6QS Final pH = 3.6

Mode opératoire : Operating mode :

  • 1ère étape : préparation de la phase aqueuse.1 st step: preparation of the aqueous phase.
  • 2ème étape : ajustement du pH de la phase aqueuse par ajout d'acide. 2nd step: adjustment of the pH of the aqueous phase by addition of acid.
  • 3ème étape : on ajoute le composant A sous agitation.3 rd step: adding component A with stirring.
  • 4ème étape : on ajoute les conservateurs et le parfum. Step 4: adding preservatives and perfume.
  • 5ème étape : réajustement du pH à 3,6 Step 5: pH adjustment to 3.6
Caractéristiques finales de la composition : Final characteristics of the composition :

  • pH = 3,6pH = 3.6
  • viscosité (RVT 6, 20 tours/min) = 10250 cP = 10250 mPa.sviscosity (RVT 6, 20 rpm) = 10250 cP = 10250 mPa.s
  • aspect : gel / crème blanc, opaque et brillantappearance: gel / cream white, opaque and glossy
  • toucher : onctueux car ce gel/crème se casse très progressivement à la surface de la peau. Texture : légère, non grasse et non collantetouch: unctuous because this gel / cream breaks very gradually on the surface of the skin. Texture: light, non-greasy and non-sticky
  • préhension facile avec la main alors que la texture est relativement fluideeasy grip with the hand while the texture is relatively smooth
Exemple 2 : lotion à base de silicone, pH 6:Example 2: silicone lotion, pH 6:

% en poids% in weight dimethiconedimethicone 10 %10% palmitate d'octyleoctyl palmitate 5%5% eau (aqua)water (aqua) QSP 100QSP 100 Composant AComponent A 1,5 %1,5% conservateurspreservatives QSQS parfumperfume QSQS

Mode opératoire : Operating mode :

On incorpore les ingrédients dans l'ordre indiqué. On ajoute ensuite sous agitation le composant A, les conservateurs puis le parfum.Ingredients are incorporated in the order listed. Component A, the preservatives and the perfume are then added with stirring.

Caractéristiques finales de la composition : Final characteristics of the composition :

  • pH = 5,8pH = 5.8
  • viscosité (RVT 6, 20 tours/min) = 9500 cP = 9500 mPa.sviscosity (RVT 6, 20 rpm) = 9500 cP = 9500 mPa.s
  • aspect : crème brillante, facile à prendre à la mainappearance: shiny cream, easy to take by hand
  • toucher : onctueux et léger, ne fait pas I' « eau » à l'application. Toucher final veloutétouch: unctuous and light, does not make "water" to the application. Velvety final touch
Exemple 3 : base crème capillaire, pH 5 :Example 3: capillary cream base, pH 5:

% en poids% in weight eau (aqua)water (aqua) QSP 100QSP 100 Huile d'olive (Olea Europaea)Olive oil (Olea Europaea) 2 %2% Composant BComponent B 1,25 %1.25% conservateurspreservatives Q SQ S parfumperfume Q SQ S acide citriquecitric acid QS pH = 5QS pH = 5

Mode opératoire : Operating mode :

On verse le composant B dans l'eau. On ajoute ensuite l'huile sous agitation. Dès que la préparation est homogène, on ajoute les conservateurs et le parfum. Le pH est ajusté à 5.Component B is poured into the water. The oil is then added with stirring. As soon as the preparation is homogeneous, the preservatives and the perfume are added. The pH is adjusted to 5.

Caractéristiques finales de la composition : Final characteristics of the composition :

  • pH=5pH = 5
  • viscosité (RVT 6, 20 tours/min.) = 11500 cP = 11500 mPa.sviscosity (RVT 6, 20 rpm) = 11500 cP = 11500 mPa.s
Exemple 4 : base émulsion huile / eau démaquillante, pH 4,7 :EXAMPLE 4 Oil / Cleansing Emulsion Base, pH 4.7:

% en poids% in weight Phase aqueuse :Aqueous phase : Disodium Laureth sulfosuccinateDisodium Laureth sulfosuccinate 4% (m.a.)4% (m.a.) glycérineglycerin 3 %3% eau (aqua)water (aqua) QSP 100QSP 100 (m.a. = matières actives)(m.a. = active ingredients) Phase huileuse :Oily phase: triglycéride caprylique/capriquecaprylic / capric triglyceride 6 %6% Huile d'amande douce (Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis)Sweet almond oil (Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis) 2%2% Composant AComponent A 4 %4% Conservateursconservatives Q SQ S ParfumPerfume Q SQ S

Mode opératoire : Operating mode :

On prépare la phase aqueuse La phase huileuse est ensuite incorporé. On ajoute alors sous agitation le composant A, puis les conservateurs et le parfum.The aqueous phase is prepared. The oily phase is then incorporated. Component A is then added with stirring, followed by the preservatives and the perfume.

Caractéristiques finales de la composition : Final characteristics of the composition :

  • pH = 4,7pH = 4.7
  • viscosité (RVT 6, 20 tours/min.) = 4000 cP = 4000 mPa.sviscosity (RVT 6, 20 rpm) = 4000 cP = 4000 mPa.s
  • aspect : lait blancaspect: white milk
  • toucher : mousse peu, facile à rincer, facile à étaler tout en gardant une texture consistante non grasse et non collante.touch: little foam, easy to rinse, easy to spread while maintaining a consistent non-greasy and non-sticky texture.
Exemple 5 : base émulsion huile / eau, pH 4,2 :Example 5: oil / water emulsion base, pH 4.2:

% en poids% in weight Phase huileuseOily phase « Shea Butter » (Butyrospermum Parkii)"Shea Butter" (Butyrospermum Parkii) 2 %2% (beurre de karité)(Shea Butter) Stéarate d'octyleOctyl stearate 8 %8% Huile minérale (Paraffinum Liquidum)Mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) 4 %4% eau (aqua)water (aqua) QSP 100QSP 100 Composant AComponent A 2 %2% conservateurspreservatives QSQS parfumperfume Q SQ S acide citriquecitric acid QS pH 4,2QS pH 4.2

Mode opératoire : Operating mode :

Préparation la phase huileuse à 50°C. On ajoute l'eau et on maintient la température à 50°C. Le composant A est jouté sous agitation.Preparation the oily phase at 50 ° C. Water is added and the temperature is maintained at 50 ° C. Component A is added with stirring.

Le mélange est ensuite ramené à température ambiante afin d'y ajouter les conservateurs et le parfum. Le pH est alors ajusté.The mixture is then brought back to room temperature in order to add the preservatives and the perfume. The pH is then adjusted.

Caractéristiques finales de la composition : Final characteristics of the composition :

  • pH = 4,2pH = 4.2
  • viscosité (RVT 6, 20 trs/min.) = 2750 cP = 2750 mPa.sviscosity (RVT 6, 20 rpm) = 2750 cP = 2750 mPa.s
  • aspect : fluide blanc opaqueaspect: opaque white fluid
  • toucher : léger et consistant, permet le massage sans formation de particules inconfortables pour le consommateurtouch: light and consistent, allows the massage without forming particles uncomfortable for the consumer
Exemple 6 : base pour un gel / crème, pH 10 :Example 6: base for a gel / cream, pH 10:

% en poids% in weight eau (aqua)water (aqua) QSP 100QSP 100 Composant AComponent A 3%3% NaOHNaOH QS pH = 10QS pH = 10 conservateurspreservatives Q SQ S parfumperfume Q SQ S

Mode opératoire : Operating mode :

On verse le composant A dans l'eau. On ajuste le pH à 10. On ajoute alors sous agitation les conservateurs et le parfum.Component A is poured into the water. The pH is adjusted to 10. The preservatives and the perfume are then added with stirring.

Caractéristiques finales de la composition : Final characteristics of the composition :

  • pH=10pH = 10
  • viscosité (RVT 6, 20 tours/min.) = 12000 cP= 12000 mPa.sviscosity (RVT 6, 20 rpm) = 12000 cP = 12000 mPa.s
  • aspect : gel / crème blanc, opaque et brillantappearance: gel / cream white, opaque and glossy
  • toucher : onctueux. Le gel est facile à étaler.touch: unctuous. The gel is easy to spread.

Les exemples ci-dessus montrent la diversité des compositions qui peuvent être ciblées pour l'utilisation de ce type de polymères à la fois pour leurs propriétés épaississantes et/ou émulsionnantes.The above examples show the diversity of compositions that can be targeted for the use of this type of polymer both for their thickening and / or emulsifying properties.

Les améliorations obtenues sont nombreuses :The improvements obtained are numerous:

Les polymères épaississants et/ou émulsionnants tels que définis peuvent être incorporés à toute température. Ils offrent de plus une grande souplesse quant à l'étape d'incorporation.The thickening and / or emulsifying polymers as defined can be incorporated at any temperature. They also offer great flexibility as to the incorporation step.

Ce sont des polymères épaississants et émulsionnants efficaces et donc d'excellents stabilisants pour les compositions contenant des silicones, des huiles végétales, des ingrédients sous forme saline ou contenant des sels, ou ayant un pH inférieur à 6.They are effective thickening and emulsifying polymers and therefore excellent stabilizers for compositions containing silicones, vegetable oils, ingredients in salt form or containing salts, or having a pH of less than 6.

Chacune des compositions finales testées présente des caractéristiques cosmétiques optimales telles que le toucher et la stabilité.Each of the final compositions tested has optimal cosmetic characteristics such as feel and stability.

Les touchers résultant des différentes formulations sont onctueux : au moment de l'application, la texture de la composition de l'invention se « casse » moins rapidement ce qui permet d'éviter un toucher trop « aqueux » (qui ressemble à de l'eau), peu attractif pour le consommateur, notamment en terme d'efficacité et de confort de la composition.The touches resulting from the various formulations are unctuous: at the time of application, the texture of the composition of the invention "breaks" less rapidly, which makes it possible to avoid a touch that is too "aqueous" (which looks like water), unattractive to the consumer, especially in terms of efficiency and comfort of the composition.

Cette propriété permet également d'éviter que la composition appliquée à la surface de la peau, des cheveux, des ongles ou des poils ne s'écoule trop rapidement. Il est alors plus facile de contrôler l'application et l'étalement de la composition sur la surface à traiter.This property also makes it possible to prevent the composition applied to the surface of the skin, hair, nails or hair from flowing too quickly. It is then easier to control the application and the spread of the composition on the surface to be treated.

Il est à noter que pour chacune des formules possibles, le choix de l'emballage est vaste : flacon-pompe, tube, pulvérisateur ou « spray », pot,It should be noted that for each of the possible formulas, the choice of packaging is vast: pump bottle, tube, spray or "spray", pot,

De plus l'utilisation d'un polymère sous forme de poudre est un choix supplémentaire. Il permet de bénéficier des propriétés du polymère tel que décrit précédemment tout en évitant la présence de la phase huileuse (solvant du polymère) dans la composition finale. Cette possibilité offre une diversité supplémentaire permettant de répondre à de nouvelles exigences techniques et/ou marketing.In addition, the use of a polymer in the form of a powder is an additional choice. It makes it possible to benefit from the properties of the polymer as described above while avoiding the presence of the oily phase (solvent of the polymer) in the final composition. This possibility offers additional diversity to meet new technical and / or marketing requirements.

Claims (18)

  1. Use as a (total or partial) thickener and / or emulsifier for aqueous media in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, pharmaceutical compositions for human or veterinary use, or detergents, of at least one polymer obtained through polymerisation of:
    - 5 to 95 mole % of at least one monomer having a weak acid function, and of
    - 5 to 95 mole % of at least one monomer having a strong acid function and
    - wherein the polymer contains a fraction of hydrosoluble polymers of between 5 and 50% by weight (of the total polymer), preferably between 6 and 35%, preferably 8 and 30-35%, the method for determining the hydrosoluble fraction being the following:
    - the method is based on the separation of the cross-linked polymer microgels with a polymer solution, by centrifuging, and the polymer content is determined before and after by colloid titration, on the basis of the stoichiometric precipitation of charged colloidal particles through titration of a polymer of the opposite charge, using a visual indicator, and wherein, at the moment of polymerisation, the neutralisation of the totality of the monomers having an acid function is partial and between 5 and 95%.
  2. Use of a polymer according to claim 1, wherein the polymerisation is carried out in an inverse water-in-oil emulsion.
  3. Use of a polymer according to claims 1 and 2, wherein more polymers are obtained in the presence of a cross-linking or branching agent, or possibly a transfer agent.
  4. Use of a polymer according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the rate of cross-linking or branching is between 50 and 3000 ppm (considering the methylene-bis-acrylamide or MBA) in the polymer, or an equivalent level of cross-linking with a cross-linking agent with a different effectiveness.
  5. Use of a polymer according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polymerisation concentration is between 15 and 55% by weight.
  6. Use of a polymer according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polymerisation is possibly controlled by the presence of a transfer agent.
  7. Use of a polymer according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein said polymer is obtained from:
    - 10 to 80 mole % of at least one monomer having a weak acid function and from
    - 20 to 90 mole % of at least one monomer having a strong acid function
    - and possibly more in the presence of a cross-linking or branching agent and possibly a transfer agent.
  8. Use of a polymer according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the rate of neutralisation (at the moment of polymerisation) of all the unsaturated acids of said polymer is preferably between 10 and 80%.
  9. Use of a polymer according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the cross-linking or branching rate of said polymer is preferably between 100 and 800 ppm (taking into account the MBA) in relation to the polymer or an equivalent level of cross-linking with a cross-linking agent with a different efficiency.
  10. Use of a polymer according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein under the same conditions the polymer obtained without a cross-linking agent has an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 3 to 25 dl/g.
  11. Use according to any of claims 1 to 10, wherein the polymerisation concentration is preferably 25 to 45% by weight of the active material.
  12. Use according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the overall neutralisation rate of monomers having an acid function is between 20 and 90% during polymerisation.
  13. Use according to any of claims 1 to 12, wherein during polymerisation in the form of water-in-oil emulsion, the continuous phase used may be an oil or solvent of mineral and/or synthetic and/or vegetal origin, preferably a non-mineral solvent or oil.
  14. Use according to any of claims 1 to 13, wherein said polymer comprises as a monomer one of the following strong acid monomers:
    - monomers presenting a sulfonic acid function or a phosphonic acid function, for example: 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS).
  15. Use according to any of claims 1 to 14, wherein said polymer comprises as a monomer one of the following weak acid monomers:
    - acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid.
  16. Use according to any of claims 1 to 15, wherein said polymer has been cross-linked (or branched) by one of the following cross-linking agents: methylene-bis-acrylamide (MBA), ethylene glycol diacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diacrylamide, cyano methyl acrylate, vinyloxy ethyl acrylate or methacrylate and formaldehyde, glyoxal, glycidyl ether type components such as ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, or epoxies.
  17. Use according to any of claims 1 to 16, wherein said polymer comprises one of the following transfer agents: isopropylic alcohol, sodium hypophosphite, mercaptoethanol.
  18. Use according to any of claims 1 to 17, wherein said polymer is formed by means of inverse emulsion polymerisation using: P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6 % mole AMPS (strong acid) 60 60 60 40 50 90 % mole acrylic acid (weak acid) 40 40 40 60 50 10 % (Total) Neutralisation 70 50 36 55 60 70 % Active Material 35 35 30 30 30 35 % Hydrosoluble Polymer 17 6 15 10 28 20 QC1 (viscosity measurement at pH=3) 6000 16500 12000 3250 4500 12500 QC2 (fall in viscosity by adding salts) 54 70 43 54 44 60
EP01947510A 2000-06-23 2001-06-15 Use as thickeners in cosmetics of neutralized copolymers comprising weak acid units and strong acid units Revoked EP1296640B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0008201 2000-06-23
FR0008201A FR2810545B1 (en) 2000-06-23 2000-06-23 USE AS COSMETIC THICKENERS OF NEUTRALIZED COPOLYMERS COMPRISING LOW ACID PATTERNS AND STRONG ACID PATTERNS, AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING THEM
PCT/FR2001/001892 WO2001097772A1 (en) 2000-06-23 2001-06-15 Use as thickeners in cosmetics of neutralized copolymers comprising weak acid units and strong acid units, and cosmetic compositions comprising same

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EP1296640A1 EP1296640A1 (en) 2003-04-02
EP1296640B1 true EP1296640B1 (en) 2009-06-03

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AU (1) AU2001269178A1 (en)
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JP2021095374A (en) 2019-12-18 2021-06-24 ロレアル Stable composition comprising combination of specific components
FR3113907B1 (en) 2020-09-07 2023-05-05 Snf Sa USE IN HYDROALCOHOLIC COMPOSITIONS OF A COPOLYMER OBTAINED BY PRECIPITATION POLYMERIZATION
FR3122092B1 (en) 2021-04-22 2024-02-23 Snf Sa USE IN A HYDROALCOHOLIC COMPOSITION OF POLYMERS OBTAINED BY LOW CONCENTRATION REVERSE EMULSION POLYMERIZATION WITH A LOW RATE OF NEUTRALIZED MONOMERS
FR3125412A1 (en) 2021-07-21 2023-01-27 L'oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR THE HAIR

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EP1296640A1 (en) 2003-04-02
ES2327817T3 (en) 2009-11-04
US20040028637A1 (en) 2004-02-12
DE60138886D1 (en) 2009-07-16
AU2001269178A1 (en) 2002-01-02
FR2810545B1 (en) 2004-05-07
WO2001097772A1 (en) 2001-12-27
ATE432687T1 (en) 2009-06-15
FR2810545A1 (en) 2001-12-28

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