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EP1090174A1 - Use of three-dimensional crimping fibres for making staying material, and resulting staying material - Google Patents

Use of three-dimensional crimping fibres for making staying material, and resulting staying material

Info

Publication number
EP1090174A1
EP1090174A1 EP99923664A EP99923664A EP1090174A1 EP 1090174 A1 EP1090174 A1 EP 1090174A1 EP 99923664 A EP99923664 A EP 99923664A EP 99923664 A EP99923664 A EP 99923664A EP 1090174 A1 EP1090174 A1 EP 1090174A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibers
polyamide
nonwoven
dtex
dimensional
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP99923664A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Hartmut Kratzke
Jürgen LASCH
Carsten Scheffler
Helmut Schultz
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Rhodia Performance Fibres SAS
Original Assignee
Rhodia Performance Fibres SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Rhodia Performance Fibres SAS filed Critical Rhodia Performance Fibres SAS
Publication of EP1090174A1 publication Critical patent/EP1090174A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4326—Condensation or reaction polymers
    • D04H1/4334—Polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4391—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres
    • D04H1/43918—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres nonlinear fibres, e.g. crimped or coiled fibres
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/12—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using stuffer boxes
    • D02G1/122—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using stuffer boxes introducing the filaments in the stuffer box by means of a fluid jet
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
    • D02G1/161—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam yarn crimping air jets
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D04H1/50—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by treatment to produce shrinking, swelling, crimping or curling of fibres

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the use of three-dimensional crimped fibers for the manufacture of reinforcing fabrics such as reinforcing fabrics for clothing and the fabrics or fabrics thus obtained.
  • reinforcing fabrics which are also called reinforcing fabric, it is necessary to understand in particular fabrics with plain and twill weave, non-woven textile surfaces, felts, or surfaces with a quilted appearance used in particular as upholstery fabrics and support in making-up clothing.
  • reinforcing fabrics can be used in other applications without departing from the scope of the invention.
  • These reinforcing fabrics are used in the manufacture of clothing to improve the holding of the clothing, its aesthetic appearance and its comfort.
  • These reinforcement or interlining fabrics can be produced from continuous threads, spun fibers or fibers obtained from natural material, artificial material or synthetic material.
  • continuous threads are crimped threads.
  • Yarns or crimped fibers are generally used to give volume to the reinforcing fabric.
  • the crimped fibers used are fibers of synthetic material, such as polyamide fibers, the crimping of which is generally obtained by mechanical crimping, it that is, the fibers have a two-dimensional crimp.
  • This two-dimensional crimp has drawbacks because it generates a limited swelling effect.
  • the curvature of each crimp is very pronounced, forming points which, when touched, give a sensation similar to that generated by the ends of the fibers.
  • One of the aims of the present invention is to eliminate these drawbacks by proposing reinforcing fabrics or nonwoven interlining having greater bulk and an improved appearance.
  • the invention proposes the use of fibers with three-dimensional crimping of a title between 0.9 dtex and 5 dtex obtained by spinning a composition based on polyamide for the production of non-woven reinforcement fabrics used in particular. in making clothes.
  • the nonwoven reinforcement fabrics used as interlining can comprise a nonwoven surface coated on at least one face with a binder or adhesive composition for fixing it to the garment fabric. It can comprise several layers of nonwoven fabrics linked together in a manner known per se. These nonwoven fabrics can also be combined with other textile surfaces of different types for the production of the interlining.
  • the interlining or nonwoven fabrics in accordance with the invention may include other fibers, whether or not crimped, of the same or different material. They can also be associated with threads or spun with continuous fibers.
  • the nonwoven surfaces of the invention have a basis weight between 10 g / m 2 and 200 g / m 2 , preferably between 20 and 100 g / m 2 .
  • the crimped fibers used for the production of a interlining have a titer advantageously between 0.9 and 3.3 dtex.
  • the crimped fibers of the invention are obtained by spinning a composition based on a synthetic material such as advantageously a polyamide or copolyamide.
  • polyamides or copolyamides suitable for the invention mention may be made of polyadipamide of hexamethylene, polycaprolactam, the copolymers of these two polyamides or their mixtures. These polyamides may also include other repeating units such as aromatic sulfonate units such as the recurring unit derived from 5-isophthalic acid or the like, or units derived from other dicarboxylic acids such as iso or terephthalic acids or diamines . Other polyamides can also be mentioned, such as PA 6.10; PA 4.6; PA 11 or PA 12.
  • the polyamides can also be used with various additives such as pigments, matifiers, heat or light stabilizers, heat protection agents, anti-microbial agents, anti-fouling agents or the like. This list is not exhaustive.
  • polyadipamide of hexamethylene By way of preferred polyamide, mention will be made of polyadipamide of hexamethylene, polycaprolactam, copolyamides or mixtures mainly comprising units of adipamide of hexamethylene or of polycaprolactam.
  • the fibers can have various cross-sectional shapes such as round, multi-lobed.
  • the section may also include depressions.
  • the fibers are generally obtained from a single material. However, they can also be obtained from two or more materials, these fibers are called composite or two-component fibers of the "side by side” or "heart / skin” type.
  • the process for manufacturing crimped fibers used in the invention consists in spinning a large number of filaments through dies which are taken up in the form of a roving. The number of filaments per wick can vary within a wide range. This number is often more than 100.
  • the locks are either fed directly into a drawing and crimping device, or several locks are combined to make a sheet which will be fed into the drawing and crimping devices.
  • the locks or plies can be cut directly into fibers of short length (a few millimeters), or stored to be cut into fibers in a subsequent step.
  • the drawing rate applied to the fibers can vary within a large proportion, for example the drawing rate can be between 1 and 5.
  • the fibers are subjected to a pneumatic crimping described below, generating a three-dimensional crimp making it possible to obtain fibers with a voluminous appearance, and with a conservation of the crimp ratio even under high tension.
  • the three-dimensional crimp is a crimp located at least in two intersecting planes and which also generates curls or folds of the fiber in the shape of a pigtail. This form of crimping makes it possible to obtain nonwovens with a high swelling appearance.
  • the process of the invention is, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, a continuous and integrated process which comprises the steps of spinning, drawing, crimping and cutting in line.
  • the spinning speed can vary from 500 m / min to
  • the spinning temperature is between 250 ° C and 300 ° C.
  • the filaments leaving the die are cooled by a fluid which is advantageously air.
  • the filaments after convergence in the form of a wick or sheet are subjected to drawing, the rate of which is advantageously between 1 and 5, preferably between 2 and 4.
  • This stretching is generally carried out between two or more trains of rolls, heated or not. It can be carried out cold or at a temperature of up to 120 ° C.
  • the stretched filaments are fed in a crimping or texturing step according to the principle of pneumatic piling described in particular in French Patent No. 2,041,654.
  • the filaments are entrained by a fluid heated to a temperature above 100 ° C. in a nozzle, the filaments being taken up on a drive roller at the nozzle outlet at a speed lower than the speed of entry of the filaments into the nozzle.
  • the filaments pile up in the nozzle forming folds, the driving fluid escaping laterally through orifices provided on the wall of the nozzle.
  • the crimped wick is developed and then fed into cutting means to produce fibers of determined length, for example, advantageously between 5 and 200 mm.
  • the method of the invention makes it possible to obtain filaments then fibers comprising three-dimensional crimps, but with a minimum of entanglement between the filaments.
  • the fibers are easily individualized and compatible to be used in particular for the manufacture of nonwoven.
  • Three-dimensional crimp fibers are made by spinning a copolymer comprising 98% PA 6.6 and 2% PA 6 having a relative viscosity after drying of 2.7 (the viscosity is measured using a solution of polymer in 96% sulfuric acid).
  • Spinning is carried out using dies comprising 180 holes with a diameter of 0.3 mm.
  • the spinning speed is 660 m / min.
  • the wick of 180 filaments is fed in a roller drawing process.
  • the draw rate applied is 3.
  • the wick is then supplied in a pneumatic texturing process in which air is supplied at 260 ° C under a pressure of 9 bars.
  • the curly wick is directly fed into a cutting system.
  • the fibers obtained have a titer of 2.8 dtex, a tenacity of 42 cN / tex, an elongation of 54%, and a contraction of the crimps of 12%.
  • the fibers are used for the manufacture of a nonwoven used as interlining in clothing.
  • Three-dimensional crimped fibers are obtained according to the process described in Example 1 but using as polyamide a polyamide 6 with a relative viscosity equal to 2.7 (measured in H2SO4 at 96%).
  • the polyamide also contains 0.3% by weight of Ti ⁇ 2 as a polishing agent.
  • the spinning speed is 870 m / min the stretching rate applied is equal to 3.
  • the air supplied to the pneumatic crimping device is at a temperature of 240 ° C. and a pressure of 9 bars.
  • the curled wick is returned to a reel at a speed of 2300 m / min.
  • the wick thus obtained is unwound in a cutting device after having undergone a heat treatment and depositing a size.
  • the fibers obtained have a titer of 1.7 dtex, a tenacity of 50 cN / tex and an elongation of 74%. The contraction of the crimps is 14.5%. These fibers are used for the manufacture of a nonwoven for interlining.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention concerns the use of three-dimensional crimping fibres for making interlining such as staying materials for clothes and resulting materials or fabrics. More particularly, the invention concerns the use of crimped fibres for making nonwoven surfaces to be used as staying or lining fabric for clothes. The invention is characterised in that the fibres used have three-dimensional crimping and a yarn count ranging between 0.9 dtex and 5 dtex, preferably between 1 and 3.3 dtex.

Description

UTILISATION DE FIBRES A FRISURE TRIDIMENSIONNELLE POUR LA FABRICATION DE TISSU OU TOILE DE RENFORT. ET TISSU DE RENFORT USE OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL CRIMPING FIBERS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRIC OR REINFORCEMENT FABRIC. AND REINFORCEMENT FABRIC
OBTENUGOT
L'invention concerne l'utilisation de fibres à frisure tridimensionnelle pour la fabrication de tissus de renfort tel que les toiles de renfort pour vêtements et les tissus ou toiles ainsi obtenus.The invention relates to the use of three-dimensional crimped fibers for the manufacture of reinforcing fabrics such as reinforcing fabrics for clothing and the fabrics or fabrics thus obtained.
Par tissus de renfort, qui sont également appelés toile de renfort, il faut comprendre notamment les tissus à armure unie et sergée, des surfaces textiles non- tissées, feutres, ou surfaces à aspect molletonné utilisées notamment comme tissus de garnissage et maintien dans la confection de vêtements.By reinforcing fabrics, which are also called reinforcing fabric, it is necessary to understand in particular fabrics with plain and twill weave, non-woven textile surfaces, felts, or surfaces with a quilted appearance used in particular as upholstery fabrics and support in making-up clothing.
Ces tissus sont également appelés triplure, entre-doublure ou plus généralement par le terme d'origine anglo-saxon "interlining".These fabrics are also called interlining, interlining or more generally by the term of origin Anglo-Saxon "interlining".
Bien entendu, les toiles de renfort peuvent être utilisées dans d'autres applications sans pour cela sortir du cadre de l'invention.Of course, the reinforcing fabrics can be used in other applications without departing from the scope of the invention.
Ces tissus de renfort sont utilisés dans la confection de vêtement pour améliorer la tenue du vêtement, son aspect esthétique et son confort.These reinforcing fabrics are used in the manufacture of clothing to improve the holding of the clothing, its aesthetic appearance and its comfort.
Ces tissus de renfort ou triplure peuvent être réalisés à partir de fils continus, filés de fibres ou fibres obtenus à partir de matière naturelle, matière artificielle ou matière synthétique. Généralement, les fils continus sont des fils frisés. Les fils ou fibres frisées sont généralement utilisés pour donner du volume au tissu de renfort.These reinforcement or interlining fabrics can be produced from continuous threads, spun fibers or fibers obtained from natural material, artificial material or synthetic material. Generally, continuous threads are crimped threads. Yarns or crimped fibers are generally used to give volume to the reinforcing fabric.
Toutefois, dans le cas des surfaces non-tissées auxquelles se rapporte plus particulièrement l'invention, Les fibres frisées utilisées sont des fibres en matière synthétique, telles que des fibres en polyamide, dont la frisure est généralement obtenue par un frisage mécanique, c'est-à-dire les fibres présentent une frisure bidimensionnelle. Cette frisure bidimensionnelle présente des inconvénients, car elle génère un effet gonflant limité. De plus, la courbure de chaque frisure est très prononcée, formant des pointes qui, au toucher, procure une sensation semblable à celle générée par les extrémités des fibres. Un des buts de la présente invention est de supprimer ces inconvénients en proposant des tissus de renfort ou triplures non-tissés présentant un gonflant plus important et un aspect amélioré.However, in the case of the nonwoven surfaces to which the invention relates more particularly, the crimped fibers used are fibers of synthetic material, such as polyamide fibers, the crimping of which is generally obtained by mechanical crimping, it that is, the fibers have a two-dimensional crimp. This two-dimensional crimp has drawbacks because it generates a limited swelling effect. In addition, the curvature of each crimp is very pronounced, forming points which, when touched, give a sensation similar to that generated by the ends of the fibers. One of the aims of the present invention is to eliminate these drawbacks by proposing reinforcing fabrics or nonwoven interlining having greater bulk and an improved appearance.
A cet effet, l'invention propose l'utilisation de fibres à frisure tridimensionnelle de titre compris entre 0,9 dtex et 5 dtex obtenues par filage d'une composition à base de polyamide pour la réalisation de tissus de renfort non-tissés notamment utilisés dans la confection des vêtements. Les tissus de renfort non-tissés utilisés comme triplure peuvent comprendre une surface non-tissé enduite sur au moins une face par une composition liante ou collante pour sa fixation sur le tissu de confection du vêtement. Elle peut comprendre plusieurs couches de tissus non-tissés liés entre elles de manière connue en soi. Ces tissus non-tissés peuvent être également associés à d'autres surfaces textiles de type différent pour la réalisation de la triplure.To this end, the invention proposes the use of fibers with three-dimensional crimping of a title between 0.9 dtex and 5 dtex obtained by spinning a composition based on polyamide for the production of non-woven reinforcement fabrics used in particular. in making clothes. The nonwoven reinforcement fabrics used as interlining can comprise a nonwoven surface coated on at least one face with a binder or adhesive composition for fixing it to the garment fabric. It can comprise several layers of nonwoven fabrics linked together in a manner known per se. These nonwoven fabrics can also be combined with other textile surfaces of different types for the production of the interlining.
Les triplures ou tissus non-tissés conformes à l'invention, peuvent comprendre d'autres fibres frisées ou non de matière identique ou différente. Elles peuvent également être associées à des fils ou filés de fibres continus. Selon une caractéristique préférentielle de l'invention les surfaces non-tissées de l'invention présentent un grammage compris entre 10 g/m2 et 200 g/m2, de préférence entre 20 et 100 g/m2.The interlining or nonwoven fabrics in accordance with the invention may include other fibers, whether or not crimped, of the same or different material. They can also be associated with threads or spun with continuous fibers. According to a preferred characteristic of the invention, the nonwoven surfaces of the invention have a basis weight between 10 g / m 2 and 200 g / m 2 , preferably between 20 and 100 g / m 2 .
Selon une caractéristique préférentielle de l'invention, les fibres frisées utilisées pour la réalisation d'une triplure ont un titre avantageusement compris entre 0,9 et 3,3 dtex.According to a preferred characteristic of the invention, the crimped fibers used for the production of a interlining have a titer advantageously between 0.9 and 3.3 dtex.
Les fibres frisées de l'invention sont obtenues par filage d'une composition à base d'une matière synthétique telle que avantageusement un polyamide ou copolyamide.The crimped fibers of the invention are obtained by spinning a composition based on a synthetic material such as advantageously a polyamide or copolyamide.
A titre d'exemple de polyamides ou copolyamides convenables pour l'invention, on peut citer le polyadipamide d'hexaméthylène, le polycaprolactame, les copolymères de ces deux polyamides ou leurs mélanges. Ces polyamides peuvent également comprendre d'autres unités récurrentes telles que des unités aromatiques sulfonates comme l'unité récurrente dérivée de l'acide sulpho-5 isophtalique ou analogue, ou des unités dérivées d'autres diacides carboxyliques comme les acides iso ou téréphtaliques ou diamines. D'autres polyamides peuvent également être cités, tels que le PA 6,10 ; le PA 4,6 ; le PA 11 ou le PA 12.By way of example of polyamides or copolyamides suitable for the invention, mention may be made of polyadipamide of hexamethylene, polycaprolactam, the copolymers of these two polyamides or their mixtures. These polyamides may also include other repeating units such as aromatic sulfonate units such as the recurring unit derived from 5-isophthalic acid or the like, or units derived from other dicarboxylic acids such as iso or terephthalic acids or diamines . Other polyamides can also be mentioned, such as PA 6.10; PA 4.6; PA 11 or PA 12.
Les polyamides peuvent également être utilisés avec différents additifs tels que pigments, matifiants, agents de stabilisation chaleur ou lumière, des agents de protection chaleur, des agents anti-microbiens, des agents antisalissure ou analogue. Cette liste n'a aucun caractère exhaustif.The polyamides can also be used with various additives such as pigments, matifiers, heat or light stabilizers, heat protection agents, anti-microbial agents, anti-fouling agents or the like. This list is not exhaustive.
A titre de polyamide préféré, on citera le polyadipamide d'hexaméthylène, le polycaprolactame, les copolyamides ou mélanges comprenant majoritairement des unités d'adipamide d'hexaméthylène ou du polycaprolactame.By way of preferred polyamide, mention will be made of polyadipamide of hexamethylene, polycaprolactam, copolyamides or mixtures mainly comprising units of adipamide of hexamethylene or of polycaprolactam.
Les fibres peuvent avoir des formes de section variées telles que rondes, multilobées. La section peut également comprendre des creux. Les fibres sont généralement obtenues à partir d'une seule matière. Toutefois, elles peuvent également être obtenues à partir de deux ou plus matières, ces fibres sont appelées fibres composites ou bi-composants du type " side by side " ou " cœur / peau ". Le procédé de fabrication des fibres frisées utilisées dans l'invention consiste à filer à travers des filières un nombre important de filaments qui sont repris sous forme de mèche. Le nombre de filaments par mèche peut varier dans un grand domaine. Ce nombre est souvent supérieur à 100.The fibers can have various cross-sectional shapes such as round, multi-lobed. The section may also include depressions. The fibers are generally obtained from a single material. However, they can also be obtained from two or more materials, these fibers are called composite or two-component fibers of the "side by side" or "heart / skin" type. The process for manufacturing crimped fibers used in the invention consists in spinning a large number of filaments through dies which are taken up in the form of a roving. The number of filaments per wick can vary within a wide range. This number is often more than 100.
Les mèches sont soit alimentées directement dans un dispositif d'étirage et frisage, soit plusieurs mèches sont rassemblées pour faire une nappe qui sera alimentée dans les dispositifs d'étirage et frisage. Après les étapes d'étirage et frisage, les mèches ou nappes peuvent être coupées directement en fibres de longueur courte (quelques millimètres), ou stockées pour être coupées en fibres dans une étape ultérieure. Le taux d'étirage appliqué aux fibres peut varier dans de large proportion, par exemple le taux d'étirage peut être compris entre 1 et 5. Dans l'étape de frisage, les fibres sont soumises à un frisage pneumatique décrit ci-dessous, générant une frisure tridimensionnelle permettant d'obtenir des fibres à aspect volumineux, et avec une conservation du taux de frisure même sous une tension élevée.The locks are either fed directly into a drawing and crimping device, or several locks are combined to make a sheet which will be fed into the drawing and crimping devices. After the drawing and crimping steps, the locks or plies can be cut directly into fibers of short length (a few millimeters), or stored to be cut into fibers in a subsequent step. The drawing rate applied to the fibers can vary within a large proportion, for example the drawing rate can be between 1 and 5. In the crimping step, the fibers are subjected to a pneumatic crimping described below, generating a three-dimensional crimp making it possible to obtain fibers with a voluminous appearance, and with a conservation of the crimp ratio even under high tension.
La frisure tridimensionnelle est une frisure située au moins dans deux plans sécants et qui génère également des boucles ou repliements de la fibre en forme de queue de cochon. Cette forme de frisure permet d'obtenir des non-tissés à aspect gonflant élevé.The three-dimensional crimp is a crimp located at least in two intersecting planes and which also generates curls or folds of the fiber in the shape of a pigtail. This form of crimping makes it possible to obtain nonwovens with a high swelling appearance.
Le procédé de l'invention est, dans un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, un procédé continu et intégré qui comprend les étapes de filage, étirage, frisage et coupe en ligne. Selon le titre des filaments, la vitesse de filage peut varier de 500 m/min àThe process of the invention is, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, a continuous and integrated process which comprises the steps of spinning, drawing, crimping and cutting in line. Depending on the titer of the filaments, the spinning speed can vary from 500 m / min to
2500 m/min.2500 m / min.
La température de filage est comprise entre 250°C et 300°C. Les filaments en sortie de filière sont refroidis par un fluide qui est avantageusement de l'air.The spinning temperature is between 250 ° C and 300 ° C. The filaments leaving the die are cooled by a fluid which is advantageously air.
Les filaments après convergence sous forme de mèche ou nappe sont soumis à un étirage dont le taux est avantageusement compris entre 1 et 5, de préférence entre 2 et 4.The filaments after convergence in the form of a wick or sheet are subjected to drawing, the rate of which is advantageously between 1 and 5, preferably between 2 and 4.
Cet étirage est généralement réalisé entre deux ou plusieurs trains de rouleaux chauffés ou non. Il peut être réalisé à froid ou à une température pouvant atteindre 120°C. Les filaments étirés sont alimentés dans une étape de frisage ou texturation selon le principe de l'entassement pneumatique décrit notamment dans le brevet français n° 2 041 654. Ainsi, les filaments sont entraînés par un fluide chauffé à une température supérieure à 100°C dans une tuyère, les filaments étant repris sur un rouleau d'entraînement en sortie de tuyère à une vitesse inférieure à la vitesse d'entrée des filaments dans la tuyère. Les filaments s'entassent dans la tuyère en formant des plis, le fluide d'entraînement s'échappant latéralement par des orifices prévus sur la paroi de la tuyère.This stretching is generally carried out between two or more trains of rolls, heated or not. It can be carried out cold or at a temperature of up to 120 ° C. The stretched filaments are fed in a crimping or texturing step according to the principle of pneumatic piling described in particular in French Patent No. 2,041,654. Thus, the filaments are entrained by a fluid heated to a temperature above 100 ° C. in a nozzle, the filaments being taken up on a drive roller at the nozzle outlet at a speed lower than the speed of entry of the filaments into the nozzle. The filaments pile up in the nozzle forming folds, the driving fluid escaping laterally through orifices provided on the wall of the nozzle.
La mèche frisée est développée puis alimentée dans des moyens de coupe pour produire des fibres de longueur déterminée par exemple, avantageusement comprise entre 5 et 200 mm.The crimped wick is developed and then fed into cutting means to produce fibers of determined length, for example, advantageously between 5 and 200 mm.
Le procédé de l'invention permet d'obtenir des filaments puis des fibres comprenant des frisures tridimensionnelles, mais avec un minimum d'entremêlement entre les filaments. Ainsi, en sortie des moyens de coupe, les fibres sont facilement individualisables et compatibles pour être utilisées notamment pour la fabrication de non-tissé.The method of the invention makes it possible to obtain filaments then fibers comprising three-dimensional crimps, but with a minimum of entanglement between the filaments. Thus, at the output of the cutting means, the fibers are easily individualized and compatible to be used in particular for the manufacture of nonwoven.
D'autres détails et objets de l'invention apparaîtront plus clairement au vu des exemples de réalisation donnés ci-dessous uniquement à titre indicatif.Other details and objects of the invention will appear more clearly in the light of the exemplary embodiments given below only for information.
EXEMPLE 1EXAMPLE 1
Des fibres à frisure tridimensionnelle sont fabriquées par filage d'un copolymère comprenant 98 % de PA 6.6 et 2 % de PA 6 présentant une viscosité relative après séchage de 2,7 (la viscosité est mesurée en utilisant une solution de polymère dans de l'acide sulfurique à 96 %).Three-dimensional crimp fibers are made by spinning a copolymer comprising 98% PA 6.6 and 2% PA 6 having a relative viscosity after drying of 2.7 (the viscosity is measured using a solution of polymer in 96% sulfuric acid).
Le filage est réalisé à l'aide de filières comprenant 180 trous avec un diamètre de 0,3 mm. La vitesse de filage est de 660 m/min.Spinning is carried out using dies comprising 180 holes with a diameter of 0.3 mm. The spinning speed is 660 m / min.
La mèche de 180 filaments est alimentée dans un procédé d'étirage à rouleaux. Le taux d'étirage appliqué est de 3. La mèche est ensuite alimentée dans un procédé de texturation pneumatique dans laquelle est alimenté de l'air à 260°C sous une pression de 9 bars.The wick of 180 filaments is fed in a roller drawing process. The draw rate applied is 3. The wick is then supplied in a pneumatic texturing process in which air is supplied at 260 ° C under a pressure of 9 bars.
La mèche frisée est directement alimentée dans un système de coupe.The curly wick is directly fed into a cutting system.
Les fibres obtenues ont un titre de 2,8 dtex, une ténacité de 42 cN/tex, une élongation de 54 %, et une contraction des frisures de 12%. Les fibres sont utilisées pour la fabrication d'un non-tissé utilisé comme triplure dans les vêtements. EXEMPLE 2The fibers obtained have a titer of 2.8 dtex, a tenacity of 42 cN / tex, an elongation of 54%, and a contraction of the crimps of 12%. The fibers are used for the manufacture of a nonwoven used as interlining in clothing. EXAMPLE 2
Des fibres à frisure tridimensionnelle sont obtenues selon le procédé décrit à l'exemple 1 mais en utilisant comme polyamide un polyamide 6 de viscosité relative égale à 2,7 (mesurée dans H2SO4 à 96 %). Le polyamide contient également 0,3 % en poids de Tiθ2 comme agent lustrant.Three-dimensional crimped fibers are obtained according to the process described in Example 1 but using as polyamide a polyamide 6 with a relative viscosity equal to 2.7 (measured in H2SO4 at 96%). The polyamide also contains 0.3% by weight of Tiθ2 as a polishing agent.
La vitesse de filage est de 870 m/min le taux d'étirage appliqué est égal à 3. L'air alimenté dans le dispositif pneumatique de frisage est à une température de 240°C et une pression de 9 bars. La mèche frisé est renvidée sur une bobine à une vitesse de 2300 m/min.The spinning speed is 870 m / min the stretching rate applied is equal to 3. The air supplied to the pneumatic crimping device is at a temperature of 240 ° C. and a pressure of 9 bars. The curled wick is returned to a reel at a speed of 2300 m / min.
La mèche ainsi obtenue est dévidée dans un dispositif de coupe après avoir subie un traitement thermique et le dépôt d'un ensimage.The wick thus obtained is unwound in a cutting device after having undergone a heat treatment and depositing a size.
Les fibres obtenues ont un titre de 1 ,7 dtex, une ténacité de 50 cN/tex et une élongation de 74 %. La contraction des frisures est de 14,5 %. Ces fibres sont utilisées pour la fabrication d'un non-tissé pour triplure. The fibers obtained have a titer of 1.7 dtex, a tenacity of 50 cN / tex and an elongation of 74%. The contraction of the crimps is 14.5%. These fibers are used for the manufacture of a nonwoven for interlining.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 - Utilisation de fibres frisées pour la réalisation de surfaces non-tissées destinées à être utilisées comme tissu de renfort ou remplissage pour vêtement, caractérisée en ce que les fibres présentent des frisures tridimensionnelles et un titre compris entre 0,9 dtex et 5 dtex, de préférence entre 1 et 3,3 dtex.1 - Use of crimped fibers for the production of non-woven surfaces intended to be used as reinforcing fabric or filling for clothing, characterized in that the fibers have three-dimensional crimps and a titer between 0.9 dtex and 5 dtex, preferably between 1 and 3.3 dtex.
2 - Utilisation selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que les fibres sont obtenues par filage d'une composition à base de polyamide.2 - Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the fibers are obtained by spinning a composition based on polyamide.
3 - Utilisation selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que le polyamide est choisi dans le groupe comprenant le polyamide 6.6, le polyamide 6, le polyamide 6.10, le polyamide 4.6, le polyamide 11 , le polyamide 12 et leurs copolyamides.3 - Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyamide is chosen from the group comprising polyamide 6.6, polyamide 6, polyamide 6.10, polyamide 4.6, polyamide 11, polyamide 12 and their copolyamides.
4 - Utilisation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les fibres sont frisées dans un procédé de frisage pneumatique par entassement d'une mèche dans une tuyère.4 - Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers are crimped in a pneumatic crimping process by piling a wick in a nozzle.
5 - Utilisation selon la revendication 4, caractérisée en ce que la phase gaz utilisée dans le procédé de frisage pneumatique est choisie dans le groupe comprenant l'air, la vapeur d'eau ou un mélange air/vapeur d'eau.5 - Use according to claim 4, characterized in that the gas phase used in the pneumatic crimping process is chosen from the group comprising air, water vapor or an air / water vapor mixture.
6 - Utilisation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les fibres présentent des boucles et/ou des repliements en forme de queue de cochon.6 - Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers have loops and / or folds in the shape of a pigtail.
7 - Non-tissé pour tissu de renfort ou de remplissage pour vêtement comprenant au moins des fibres à frisure tridimensionnelle.7 - Nonwoven for reinforcing or filling fabric for clothing comprising at least three-dimensional crimped fibers.
8 - Non-tissé selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce qu'il est utilisé comme triplure ou entre-doublure dans la confection des vêtements.8 - Nonwoven according to claim 7, characterized in that it is used as interlining or interlining in the manufacture of clothing.
9 - Non-tissé selon la revendication 7 ou 8, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend au moins une couche formée par un non tissé comprenant des fibres à frisure tridimensionnelle.9 - Nonwoven according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that it comprises at least one layer formed by a nonwoven comprising fibers with three-dimensional crimping.
10 - Non-tissé selon l'une des revendications 7 à 9, caractérisé en ce qu'il forme une surface textile molletonnée. 11 - Non-tissé selon l'une des revendications 7 à 10, caractérisé en ce qu'il présente un grammage compris entre 10 g/m2 et 200 g/m2, de préférence entre 20 et 100 g/m2. 10 - Nonwoven according to one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that it forms a fleece textile surface. 11 - Nonwoven according to one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that it has a grammage between 10 g / m 2 and 200 g / m 2 , preferably between 20 and 100 g / m 2 .
EP99923664A 1998-06-11 1999-06-04 Use of three-dimensional crimping fibres for making staying material, and resulting staying material Withdrawn EP1090174A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9807534 1998-06-11
FR9807534A FR2779746B1 (en) 1998-06-11 1998-06-11 USE OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL FITTING FIBERS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRIC OR REINFORCEMENT FABRIC, AND REINFORCEMENT FABRIC OBTAINED
PCT/FR1999/001313 WO1999064650A1 (en) 1998-06-11 1999-06-04 Use of three-dimensional crimping fibres for making staying material, and resulting staying material

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EP1090174A1 true EP1090174A1 (en) 2001-04-11

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CN (1) CN1152985C (en)
AU (1) AU4045099A (en)
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TW200639287A (en) * 2005-03-09 2006-11-16 Kao Corp Nonwoven fabric
DE102007054424A1 (en) * 2007-11-13 2009-05-28 Robert Bürkle GmbH Device for producing molded parts from fiber material

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0529506B1 (en) 1991-08-23 1995-11-22 Ems-Inventa Ag Paper-machine felt and method of making the same
EP0962157A1 (en) 1998-05-28 1999-12-08 EMS-Chemie AG Nonwoven interlining fabric made of meltspun stretched and texturized Polyamide-6 staple fibers

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2546536B1 (en) * 1983-05-25 1985-08-16 Rhone Poulenc Fibres PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF NONWOVEN TABLECLOTHS AND PRODUCT OBTAINED
US4514455A (en) * 1984-07-26 1985-04-30 E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company Nonwoven fabric for apparel insulating interliner
FR2592403A1 (en) * 1985-12-31 1987-07-03 Huet Andre Ets PROCESS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A SYNTHETIC FIBER MATERIAL, AND THE MATERIAL OBTAINED.
FR2742168B1 (en) * 1995-12-08 1998-01-16 Novalis Fibres PERMANENT CRIMPING FIBERS AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING SUCH FIBERS
FR2749860B1 (en) * 1996-06-17 1998-08-28 Freudenberg Spunweb Sa NON WOVEN TABLECLOTH FORMED OF VERY THIN CONTINUOUS FILAMENTS

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0529506B1 (en) 1991-08-23 1995-11-22 Ems-Inventa Ag Paper-machine felt and method of making the same
EP0962157A1 (en) 1998-05-28 1999-12-08 EMS-Chemie AG Nonwoven interlining fabric made of meltspun stretched and texturized Polyamide-6 staple fibers

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See also references of WO9964650A1

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FR2779746B1 (en) 2000-07-21
CN1152985C (en) 2004-06-09
CN1308692A (en) 2001-08-15
AU4045099A (en) 1999-12-30
FR2779746A1 (en) 1999-12-17

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