EP0711540B1 - Cosmetic or dermatologic oil/water dispersion stabilized with cubic gel particles and method of preparation - Google Patents

Abstract

Dispersions comprise 60-98% of aq. phase in which 2-40% of an oily phase is dispersed and stabilised by particles of cubic gel formed from: (i) 0.1-15 wt. % 3,7,11,15-tetramethyl- 1,2,3-hexadecanetriol or phytantriol, N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivs. of N-methyl glucamine or unsatd. fatty acid monoglycerides; and (ii) 0.05-3 wt.% of a dispersing and stabilising agent (II) which is a water soluble surfactant at room temp. contg. an aliphatic opt. satd. 8-22C chain. The oily phase is pref. in the form of droplets of 0.1-10 mu m. The cpd. in step (i) is present in a relative wt. ratio of 0.02-1/1 (pref. 0.05-0.5/1) cf. the oily phase and 2-200 cf. (II). N-2-Alkoxycarbonyl N-methyl glucamine derivs. are of formula (I), pref. N-2-hexyldecyl, N-2-ethylhexyl or N-butyloctyl- oxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine. RO-CO-N(CH3)-CH2-(CHOH)4-CH2OH (I) R = branched 6-18C alkyl. The cubic gel may contain a mixt. of 10-30 wt.% phytantriol and 70-90 wt.% of at least one N-methylglucamine N-2-alkoxycarbonyl, as well as a hydrophilic and/or a lipophilic active ingredient. The unsatd. fatty acid may be 50-99 (pref. 70-90) wt.% glyceryl monooleate or monolineate, present in a mixt. with 1-50 (pref. 10-30) wt.% phytantriol.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a composition in the form of a dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase, the oily phase being stabilized using cubic gel particles formed using a surfactant water-soluble to fatty chain as well as its process of preparation.

A wide variety of products are available in the form of a dispersion of oily phase in an aqueous phase such as in the form of an emulsion. It's all particularly cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical products, these dispersions giving the skin good sensory properties and are easy of application.

However, it is well known that dispersions, and emulsions in particular, lack stability over time due in particular to temperature variations, these "break", giving rise to two distinct phases making them unusable.

The nature and concentration of the emulsifier used may influence significantly on the stability of such compositions.

However, it is quite certain that the choice and the concentration of an emulsifier suitable will depend on various factors and in particular the oil or oils constituting the oily phase of the dispersion or of the emulsion.

Furthermore, it should be noted that certain surfactants are not without disadvantages especially when used in high concentration in view improve stability.

Indeed, on sensitive skin, they can cause certain phenomena of irritation.

We have now surprisingly and unexpectedly found that it is possible to obtain dispersions of an oily phase in an aqueous phase, particularly stable and non-irritating, using a wide variety of oils using cubic gel particles containing a small proportion of a surfactant water-soluble to fatty chain. The dispersions thus obtained also exhibit particularly satisfactory sensory qualities.

The term cubic gel used according to the present invention designates gels transparent, isotropic in polarized light, in the form of crystal phase cubic liquid. The cubic phases are organized in a bi-polar way in distinct hydrophilic and lipophilic domains, in close contact and forming a network thermodynamically stable three-dimensional. Such an organization was notably described in "La Recherche", Vol.23, pp.306-315, March 1992 and in "Lipid Technology", Vol. 2, No. 2, pp. 42-45, April 1990. According to the arrangement of the hydrophilic and lipophilic, the cubic phase is said to be of normal or reverse type. The term cubic gel used according to the present invention naturally includes gels having the different types of cubic phases.

The use of cubic phases for the realization of compositions, delayed delivery, based on biologically active substances a was described in application WO 84/02076. According to this request, the compositions are single-phase, preferably aqueous and the substance biologically active is either dissolved or dispersed in the cubic phase, this the latter being essentially obtained from monoolein, lecithin egg yolk, water and glycerol.

The present invention differs from this state of the art not only by the fact that the composition consists of two phases distinct but also by the nature of the substances leading to the formation of cubic gel particles.

(a) de 60 à 98 % en poids d'une phase aqueuse, et

(b) de 2 à 40 % en poids d'une phase huileuse,

ladite phase huileuse étant dispersée dans ladite phase aqueuse et stabilisée à l'aide de particules de gel cubique, lesdites particules étant essentiellement formées par :

(i) 0,1 à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, d'au moins un composé choisi parmi le 3,7,11,15-tétraméthyl-1,2,3-hexadecanetriol ou phytantriol, les dérivés N-2-alcoxycarbonyles de N-méthylglucamine et les monoglycérides d'acide gras insaturé, et

(ii) 0,05 à 3 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition d'un agent dispersant et stabilisant, ledit agent étant choisi parmi les agents tensioactifs hydrosolubles à température ambiante, contenant une chaíne grasse, saturée ou insaturée, linéaire ou ramifiée, ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition in the form of a dispersion comprising:

(a) from 60 to 98% by weight of an aqueous phase, and

(b) from 2 to 40% by weight of an oily phase,

said oily phase being dispersed in said aqueous phase and stabilized using cubic gel particles, said particles being essentially formed by:

(i) 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one compound chosen from 3,7,11,15-tetramethyl-1,2,3-hexadecanetriol or phytantriol, the N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivatives of N-methylglucamine and monoglycerides of unsaturated fatty acid, and

(ii) 0.05 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a dispersing and stabilizing agent, said agent being chosen from water-soluble surfactants at room temperature, containing a fatty, saturated or unsaturated, linear chain or branched, having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

According to a particular embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the relative weight proportion of compound (i) relative to the weight of the oily phase is between 0.02 / 1 and 1/1, and preferably between 0.05 / 1 and 0.5 / 1.

According to a particular embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the relative weight proportion of compound (i) relative to the weight of said dispersing agent and stabilizer is between 2 and 200, and preferably less than or equal to 50.

The phytantriol of cubic gel particles is a known compound, in particular marketed under the name of "Phytantriol-63926®" by the Roche Company.

dans laquelle :
   R représente un radical alkyle ramifié en C₆-C₁₈. Among the N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivatives of N-methylglucamine, mention may in particular be made of those corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which :
R represents a branched C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical.

Among these, there may be mentioned in particular N-2-hexyldecyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine, N-2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine and N-2-butyloctyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine.

(a) à dissoudre dans un mélange d'eau et d'un solvant organique, de la N-méthyl-glucamine,

(b) à disperser dans le mélange obtenu précédemment du bicarbonate de sodium, en une proportion appropriée correspondant environ à quatre fois la proportion molaire de N-méthyl-glucamine,

(c) à introduire alors dans le mélange réactionnel obtenu, un chloroformiate d'alkyle, le radical alkyle étant en C₆-C₁₈, en une proportion appropriée, généralement équimolaire par rapport à celle de N-méthyl-glucamine, puis à laisser réagir le mélange, et

(d) à récupérer le dérivé N-2-alcoxycarbonyle de N-méthylglucamine formé.

The compounds of formula (I) as defined above are new and can be prepared according to a process comprising the steps consisting:

(a) to dissolve in a mixture of water and an organic solvent, N-methyl-glucamine,

(b) dispersing in the mixture obtained above sodium bicarbonate, in an appropriate proportion corresponding approximately to four times the molar proportion of N-methyl-glucamine,

(c) then introducing into the reaction mixture obtained, an alkyl chloroformate, the alkyl radical being C ₆ -C ₁₈ , in an appropriate proportion, generally equimolar with respect to that of N-methyl-glucamine, and then leaving react the mixture, and

(d) recovering the N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative of N-methylglucamine formed.

The organic solvent used in step (a) is generally tetrahydrofuran.

Step (d) consists in filtering the reaction mixture obtained after step (c), to collect the pasty residue by filtration and then dissolve it in acetone for its crystallization at a temperature of the order of 5 ° C. After filtration, the crystals are wrung and dried under vacuum. Examples of the preparation of certain N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivatives of N-methyl-glucamine will be given below in the experimental part.

According to a particular embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the cubic gel particles contain as compound (i) a mixture of phytantriol in a proportion of 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture, and at least one N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative of N-methyl-glucamine of formula (I) in a proportion of 60 to 99% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture.

According to a preferred form of this embodiment, the proportion of phytantriol is 10 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture and that of the N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative of N-methyl-glucamine from 70 to 90% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture.

The unsaturated fatty acid monoglycerides are preferably those having an unsaturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty chain.

Among these, mention may in particular be made of glyceryl monooleate or monoolein and glyceryl monolinoleate or monolinoline.

It is of course possible to use in the compositions according to the invention, a mixture of monoglycerides as defined above as well as a mixture of unsaturated fatty acid monoglycerides and saturated fatty acid monoglycerides, the proportion of saturated fatty acid monoglycerides, however, preferably being lower to that of unsaturated fatty acid monoglycerides.

According to another embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the cubic gel particles contain as compound (i) a mixture of phytantriol in a proportion of 1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture and at least an unsaturated fatty acid monoglyceride in a proportion of 50 to 99% by weight per relative to the weight of the mixture.

According to a preferred form of this embodiment, the proportion of phytantriol is 10 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture and that of monoglyceride unsaturated fatty acid of 70 to 90% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture.

(1) les alkyl ou alcényl éthers ou esters de polyol,

(2) les amino-acides N-acylés et leurs dérivés et les peptides N-acylés par un radical alkyle ou alcényle, et leurs sels,

(3) les alkyl ou alcényl éthers ou esters sulfates, leurs dérivés et leurs sels,

(4) les alkyl ou alcényl éthers ou esters gras polyoxyéthylénés,

(5) les acides alkyl ou alcényl carboxyliques polyoxyéthylénés et leurs sels,

(6) les N-alkyl ou alcényl bétaïnes,

(7) les alkyl ou alcényl triméthylammonium et leurs sels, et

(8) leurs mélanges.

The dispersing and stabilizing agent (ii) is preferably chosen from:

(1) alkyl or alkenyl ethers or polyol esters,

(2) N-acylated amino acids and their derivatives and N-acylated peptides by an alkyl or alkenyl radical, and their salts,

(3) alkyl or alkenyl ethers or sulphate esters, their derivatives and their salts,

(4) polyoxyethylenated alkyl or alkenyl ethers or fatty esters,

(5) polyoxyethylenated alkyl or alkenyl carboxylic acids and their salts,

(6) N-alkyl or alkenyl betaines,

(7) alkyl or alkenyl trimethylammonium and their salts, and

(8) their mixtures.

In the above listed compounds, the alkyl and alkenyl radicals are 8 has 22 carbon atoms and can be in the form of mixtures.

1- Alkyl or alkenyl ethers or polyol esters

(a) les alkyl ou alcényl esters de sorbitan polyoxyéthylénés par au moins 20 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène tels que le palmitate de sorbitan 20 OE ou Polysorbate 40 commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Montanox 40 DF®" par la Société Seppic, et le laurate de sorbitan 20 OE ou Polysorbate 20 commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Tween 20®" par la Société ICI,

(b) les alkyl ou alcényl esters de polyglycérol comportant au moins 10 motifs dérivés du glycérol, oxyéthylénés ou non, tels que le polyglycéryl-10 laurate commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Decaglyn 1-L®" par la Société Nikko Chemicals,

(c) les alkyl ou alcényl éthers de polyglycérol tels que le polyglycéryl-3 hydroxylauryléther commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Chimexane NF®" par la Société Chimex, et

(d) les alkyl ou alcényl éthers ou esters de mono ou polysaccharides tels que ceux dérivant du glucose, du fructose, du galactose, du maltose ou du lactose et notamment les monoesters en 1- et 6- du D-fructose, du décylglucose et du décylpolyglucose.

Among these, there may be mentioned in particular:

(a) alkyl or alkenyl esters of sorbitan polyoxyethylenated with at least 20 ethylene oxide units such as sorbitan palmitate 20 OE or Polysorbate 40 sold under the name "Montanox 40 DF®" by the company Seppic, and sorbitan laurate 20 OE or Polysorbate 20 sold under the name "Tween 20®" by the company ICI,

(b) polyglycerol alkyl or alkenyl esters comprising at least 10 units derived from glycerol, oxyethylenated or not, such as polyglyceryl-10 laurate sold under the name "Decaglyn 1-L®" by the company Nikko Chemicals,

(c) alkyl or alkenyl ethers of polyglycerol such as 3-polyglyceryl hydroxylauryl ether sold under the name "Chimexane NF®" by the company Chimex, and

(d) alkyl or alkenyl ethers or esters of mono or polysaccharides such as those derived from glucose, fructose, galactose, maltose or lactose and in particular the monoesters in 1- and 6- of D-fructose, decylglucose and decylpolyglucose.

2- N-acylated amino acids and their derivatives and N-acylated peptides by an alkyl or alkenyl radical and their salts

Among these, use is preferably made of those for which the alkyl radical or alkenyl has at least 12 carbon atoms.

By amino acids is meant according to the invention the α, β or γ-amino acids. As N-acylated amino acid salts, there may be mentioned, for example, those of N-acylated glutamate such as monosodium cocoylglutamate, monosodium lauroylglutamate, C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ alkyl disodium glutamate (the alkyl radical C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ derived from hydrogenated tallow), sold respectively under the names "Acylglutamate CS-11®", "Acylglutamate LS-11®" and "Acylglutamate HS-21®" by the company Ajinomoto.

Mention may also be made of N-acylated lysines such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name of "Amihope LL®" by the Ajinomoto Company.

The N-acylated amino acid derivatives and their salts are preferably the N-acylated sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name of "Oramix L30®" by the company Seppic, myristoyl sarcosinate sodium and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold respectively under the names of "Nikkol Sarcosinate MN®" and "Nikkol Sarcosinate PN®", by the Nikko Chemicals Company.

Among the N-acylated peptides, mention may be made of those derived from all or part of the collagen or keratin such as sodium lauroyl collagen and palmitoyl keratin marketed under the names of "Proteol B 30®" and "Lipacide PK®" by the Seppic company.

3- Alkyl or alkenyl ethers or sulphate esters, their derivatives and their salts

Among these, use is preferably made of those for which the alkyl radical or alkenyl has at least 12 carbon atoms.

Among the alkyl or alkenyl ether sulfates, the salts are preferably used of alkyl ether sulfate and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate.

Among the alkyl or alkenyl sulphate esters, mention may, for example, be made of esters of isethionic acid and its salts and in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate marketed under the name of "Geropon AC 78®" by the company Rhône Poulenc.

4- Alkyl or alkenyl ethers or polyoxyethylenated fatty esters

Among these, use is preferably made of those for which the alkyl radical or alkenyl has at least 12 carbon atoms. Those particularly preferred have at least 20 ethylene oxide units such as for example PEG-20 stearate, laureth-23, oleth-20 and PEG-25 phytosterol.

5-alkyl carboxylic acids or their salts and polyoxyethylene alkenyl

Among these, preferably used those comprising at least 10 patterns ethylene oxide such as for example laureth-10 carboxylic acid and acid oleth-10 carboxylic.

6- N-alkyl or alkenyl betaines

Among these, preference is given to those for which the alkyl radical or alkenyl has at least 12 carbon atoms such as for example lauryl amidopropyl betaine and oleyl amidopropyl betaine.

7- Alkyl or alkenyl trimethylammonium and their salts

Among these, use is preferably made of those for which the alkyl radical or alkenyl has at least 12 carbon atoms. As salts, the bromides and chlorides such as cocoyltrimethylammonium chloride and bromide cetyltrimethylammonium.

When the compound (i) is an N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative of N-methyl glucamine of formula (I), preferably used as dispersing and stabilizing agent (ii), 3-polyglyceryl hydroxylauryl ether, sodium lauryl ether sulfate or bromide cetyltrimethylammonium.

According to a particular embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the cubic gel particles further comprise from 0.0005% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.001% to 2% by weight of a non-water-soluble ionic amphiphilic lipid.

(i) les phospholipides tels que les phospholipides naturels comme la lécithine de soja ou d'oeuf, les phospholipides modifiés par voie chimique ou enzymatique comme la lécithine hydrogénée ou le sel de sodium de l'acide phosphatidique, et les phospholipides de synthèse comme la dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine,

(ii) les esters phosphoniques d'acide gras tels que le monocétyl phosphate et ses sels de sodium et de potassium commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Monafax 160®" par la Société Mona, ainsi que le dimyristyl phosphate et ses sels de sodium et de potassium commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Mexoryl SY®" par la Société Chimex,

(iii) les dérivés N-acylés de l'acide glutamique tels que le stéaroylglutamate de monosodium commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Acylglutamate HS 11®" par la Société Ajinomoto et le mélange cocoyl-alcoyl C₁₄-C₂₀ glutamate de monosodium, le radical alcoyle C₁₄-C₂₀ dérivant du suif hydrogéné, commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Acylglutamate GS 11®" par la Société Ajinomoto,

(iv) le cétylsulfate de sodium commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Nikkol SCS®" par la Société Nikko Chemicals,

(v) le cocoyl monoglycéride sulfate de sodium commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Nikkol SGC 80N®" par la Société Nikko Chemicals, et

(vi) les dérivés d'ammonium quaternaire tels que le chlorure de béhényltriméthylammonium, le chlorure de dilauryldiméthylammonium, le chlorure de distéaryldiméthylammonium, le méthylsulfate de 4,5-dihydro 1-méthyl 2-alcoyl C₁₄-C₂₀ 1-(2-alcoyl C₁₄-C₂₀ aminoéthyl)imidazolium, les radicaux alcoyles C₁₄-C₂₀ dérivant du suif hydrogéné, commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Rewoquat W75H®" par la Société Rewo Chemische, le méthylsulfate de dialkylhydroxyéthylméthylammonium dont les radicaux alkyles dérivent du suif, hydrogéné ou non, commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Stepanquat VP 85®" par la Société Stepan et le "Quaternium-82" commercialisé par la Société Seppic sous la dénomination de "Amonyl DM®".

Among these, we can notably cite:

(i) phospholipids such as natural phospholipids such as soya or egg lecithin, chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids such as hydrogenated lecithin or the sodium salt of phosphatidic acid, and synthetic phospholipids such as dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine,

(ii) phosphonic fatty acid esters such as monocetyl phosphate and its sodium and potassium salts sold under the name "Monafax 160®" by the company Mona, as well as dimyristyl phosphate and its sodium and potassium marketed under the name of "Mexoryl SY®" by the company Chimex,

(iii) N-acylated derivatives of glutamic acid such as monosodium stearoylglutamate sold under the name "Acylglutamate HS 11®" by the company Ajinomoto and the cocoyl-C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ alkyl glutamate mixture, monosodium C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical derived from hydrogenated tallow, sold under the name "Acylglutamate GS 11®" by the company Ajinomoto,

(iv) sodium cetyl sulphate sold under the name "Nikkol SCS®" by the company Nikko Chemicals,

(v) sodium cocoyl monoglyceride sulphate sold under the name "Nikkol SGC 80N®" by the company Nikko Chemicals, and

(vi) quaternary ammonium derivatives such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dilauryldimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, 4,5-dihydro 1-methyl 2-alkyl C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ 1- (2- C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ aminoethyl) imidazolium alkyl, C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ alkyl radicals derived from hydrogenated tallow, marketed under the name "Rewoquat W75H®" by the company Rewo Chemische, dialkylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulphate from which alkyl radicals are derived from tallow , hydrogenated or not, marketed under the name of "Stepanquat VP 85®" by the company Stepan and "Quaternium-82" marketed by the Company Seppic under the name of "Amonyl DM®".

The incorporation of these non-water-soluble ionic amphiphilic lipids gives to the cubic gel particles a surface charge causing repulsion electrostatic particles between them.

The cubic gel particles as defined above have usually a medium size, measured using a BI 90 laser particle size analyzer from the Brookhaven Instruments Corporation, from about 0.05 µm to about 1 µm, and preferably less than or equal to 0.5 µm.

It is also possible to incorporate into the cubic gel particles, various types of active compounds. In particular, said particles may contain a principle hydrophilic or lipophilic active.

Of course, thanks to the particular structure of the cubic gel particles, it it is possible to incorporate therein both hydrophilic active ingredients and lipophilic, even if these have a certain incompatibility.

1) les agents antioxydants ou anti-radicaux libres tels que les protéines et les enzymes par exemple la superoxyde dismutase (SOD), la lactoperoxydase et la lactoferrine ; les peptides et leurs dérivés tels que la taurine et la carnosine ; les séquestrants tels que l'acide phytique et les dérivés polyphosphoniques ; les flavonoïdes tels que la rutine et l'α-glycosyl rutine ; la chlorophylline ; l'éthoxyquine ; la guanosine ; les tocophérols, notamment les α,β ou γ tocophérols et en particulier le d-α-tocophérol commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Cophérol 1300®" par la Société Henkel ainsi que l'acétate de tocophérol ; le di t-butyl hydroxybenzylidène camphre commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Mexoryl SAD®" par la Société Chimex et la t-butyl hydroquinone commercialisée sous la dénomination d'"Embanox®" par la Société Rhône-Poulenc ; le palmitate d'ascorbyle et le β-carotène,

2) les agents hydratants ou humectants tels que l'acide hyaluronique et son sel de sodium ; le β-glycérophosphate ; le glycérol et le sorbitol,

3) les filtres UV tels que les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations de "Eusolex 232®" par la Société Merck, de "Parsol 1789®" et de "Parsol MCX®" par la Société Givaudan-Roure, de "Mexoryl SX®" par la Société Chimex et de "Uvinul T150®" par la Société BASF,

4) les kératolytiques tels que les enzymes protéolytiques et notamment la subtilisine, la trypsine, l'α-chymotrypsine et la papaïne ; l'acide rétinoïque et les α-hydroxyacides notamment arômatiques tels que l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés en particulier l'acide n-dodécanoyl-5 salicylique,

5) les accélérateurs de bronzage tels que la caféine et les dérivés de tyrosine tels que le tyrosinate de glucose et le sel disodique de la N-L-malyl tyrosine,

6) les dépigmentants tels que l'acide kojique ; l'acide glycolique ; la vitamine C et notamment l'ascorbyle phosphate de magnésium, et l'arbutine et ses dérivés,

7) les colorants naturels tels que les matières colorantes extraites de végétaux comme la chlorophylline et le β-carotène ou extraites d'animaux comme le carmin de cochenille et le caramel,

8) les auto-bronzants tels que la dihydroxyacétone et les indoles,

9) les liporégulateurs tels que le γ-orizanol ; l'extrait de Centella asiatica contenant de la génine et de l'acide asiatique ; la caféine et la théophylline,

10) les agents anti-vieillissement et anti-rides tels que les hydroxyacides et notamment les α-hydroxyacides comme l'acide glycolique, l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés tels que l'acide n-octanoyl salicylique commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Mexoryl SAB®" par la Société Chimex, l'acide lactique et ses dérivés tels que le lactate stéarate de glycéryle et le lactate palmitate de glycéryle commercialisés par la Société Grinsted sous les dénominations respectives de "Lactodan B 30®" et "Lactodan F 15®" et le lactate d'octyldodécyle commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Cosmol 13®" par la Société Nisshin Oil Mills ; le rétinol et ses dérivés comme l'acétate, le palmitate et le propionate de rétinol, et les rétinoïdes,

11) les agents anti-inflammatoires et cicatrisants tels que l'acide 18 β-glycyrrhétinique et ses sels notamment son sel d'ammonium ; l'α-bisabolol ; les corticoïdes et l'extrait de Centella asiatica,

12) les antibactériens et antifongiques tels que le chlorure de benzalkonium, la chlorhexidine, l'hexetidine et l'hexamidine,

13) les insectifuges tels que les diéthyl et diméthyltoluamides,

14) les déodorants tels que l'hexachlorophène et le triclosan produit commercialisé sous la dénomination de "Irgasan DP 300®" par la Société Ciba-Geigy,

15) les antipelliculaires tels que l'octopirox et les dérivés de pyridinethione tels que ceux commercialisés sous les dénominations de "Omadine®" par la Société Olin,

16) les agents anti-chute des cheveux tels que le nicotinate de méthyle ou d'hexyle et le minoxidil,

17) les colorants capillaires tels que les bases et les coupleurs d'oxydation ; les colorants directs et les colorants auto-oxydables,

18) les agents réducteurs pour permanentes tels que l'acide thioglycolique ; la cystéine ; la cystéamine ; la N-acétyl cystéine ; la N-acétyl cystéamine et le thioglycolate de glycérol,

19) les agents conditionneurs pour peau et cheveux tels que les polymères cationiques et les cations, et

20) les huiles essentielles telles que l'huile de bergamote.

Among the various active ingredients which can be incorporated, there may be mentioned in particular:

1) antioxidants or anti-free radical agents such as proteins and enzymes, for example superoxide dismutase (SOD), lactoperoxidase and lactoferrin; peptides and their derivatives such as taurine and carnosine; sequestrants such as phytic acid and polyphosphonic derivatives; flavonoids such as rutin and α-glycosyl rutin; chlorophyllin; ethoxyquin; guanosine; tocopherols, in particular α, β or γ tocopherols and in particular d-α-tocopherol sold under the name "Copherol 1300®" by the company Henkel as well as tocopherol acetate; di t-butyl hydroxybenzylidene camphor sold under the name of "Mexoryl SAD®" by the company Chimex and t-butyl hydroquinone sold under the name of "Embanox®" by the company Rhône-Poulenc; ascorbyle palmitate and β-carotene,

2) moisturizing or humectants such as hyaluronic acid and its sodium salt; β-glycerophosphate; glycerol and sorbitol,

3) UV filters such as the products sold under the names of "Eusolex 232®" by the company Merck, of "Parsol 1789®" and of "Parsol MCX®" by the company Givaudan-Roure, of "Mexoryl SX®" by the company Chimex and "Uvinul T150®" by the company BASF,

4) keratolytics such as proteolytic enzymes and in particular subtilisin, trypsin, α-chymotrypsin and papain; retinoic acid and in particular aromatic α-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives in particular n-dodecanoyl-5 salicylic acid,

5) tanning accelerators such as caffeine and tyrosine derivatives such as glucose tyrosinate and the disodium salt of NL-malyl tyrosine,

6) depigmentants such as kojic acid; glycolic acid; vitamin C and in particular magnesium ascorbyle phosphate, and arbutin and its derivatives,

7) natural dyes such as coloring matter extracted from plants such as chlorophyllin and β-carotene or extracted from animals such as cochineal carmine and caramel,

8) self-tanners such as dihydroxyacetone and indoles,

9) liporegulators such as γ-orizanol; Centella asiatica extract containing genin and Asian acid; caffeine and theophylline,

10) anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agents such as hydroxy acids and in particular α-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl salicylic acid sold under the name "Mexoryl SAB® "by the company Chimex, lactic acid and its derivatives such as glyceryl lactate stearate and glyceryl lactate palmitate sold by the company Grinsted under the respective names of" Lactodan B 30® "and" Lactodan F 15® "and the octyldodecyl lactate sold under the name" Cosmol 13® "by the company Nisshin Oil Mills; retinol and its derivatives such as acetate, palmitate and retinol propionate, and retinoids,

11) anti-inflammatory and healing agents such as 18 β-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts, in particular its ammonium salt; α-bisabolol; corticosteroids and Centella asiatica extract ,

12) antibacterials and antifungals such as benzalkonium chloride, chlorhexidine, hexetidine and hexamidine,

13) insect repellents such as diethyl and dimethyltoluamides,

14) deodorants such as hexachlorophene and triclosan product sold under the name of "Irgasan DP 300®" by the company Ciba-Geigy,

15) antidandruff agents such as pyridinethione octopirox and derivatives such as those sold under the names "Omadine®" by Olin Corporation

16) anti-hair loss agents such as methyl or hexicotinate and minoxidil,

17) hair dyes such as bases and oxidation couplers; direct dyes and auto-oxidizable dyes,

18) reducing agents for perms such as thioglycolic acid; cysteine; cysteamine; N-acetyl cysteine; N-acetyl cysteamine and glycerol thioglycolate,

19) skin and hair conditioning agents such as cationic polymers and cations, and

20) essential oils such as bergamot oil.

In the compositions according to the invention, either particles of cubic gel containing no active ingredients, i.e. particles containing hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, or even particles containing both hydrophilic and lipophilic active ingredients.

In the compositions according to the invention, the oily phase is found to be dispersed in the aqueous phase and is generally in the form of droplets of average size between 0.1 µm and 10 µm.

The oily phase of the compositions according to the invention is essentially consisting of at least one oil of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin, preferably cosmetically, dermatologically or pharmaceutically acceptable.

Among vegetable oils, mention may in particular be made of sunflower oil, oil corn, soybean oil, squash oil, grapeseed or blackcurrant oil, oil jojoba, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, borage, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil and the liquid fraction of butter shea butter.

As vegetable oils, essential oils such as than eucalyptus oil, lavandin oil, lavender oil, vetiver oil, oil of litsea cubeba, lemon oil, sandalwood oil, rosemary oil, chamomile, savory oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, oil hyssop, caraway oil, orange oil, geraniol oil, cade oil and oil of bergamot.

Among animal oils, mention may in particular be made of fish oils, oil tortoise, mink oil and hydrogenated squalene (or perhydrosqualene).

As mineral oils, there may be mentioned in particular paraffin oil and the isoparaffins.

Among the synthetic oils, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, polydecene and polyisobutene, fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol, esters such as Glycerides of Essential Fatty Acids, triglycerides of capric and caprylic acids and mixtures thereof, and esters of fatty alcohol and of linear or branched fatty acid such as purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate).

As synthetic oils, it is also possible to use in the compositions according to the invention linear type silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxane, of cyclic type such as cyclopentadimethyl siloxane and of organomodified type such than polyphenyltrimethyl siloxane and oxyethylenated polydimethyl siloxane oxypropylenated.

Mention may also be made of fluorinated oils such as perfluorodecahydronaphthalenes such as perfluorodecaline, as well as polymeric oils such as than perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ethers.

According to one embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, it is also possible to incorporate at least one active principle in the oily phase and / or in the aqueous phase. This active principle can be chosen in particular from the principles assets as defined above.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention can also contain various conventional additives. Among these, mention may in particular be made of preservatives, perfumes, pigments (TiO ₂ ), coloring matters, fillers and gelling agents.

Among the gelling agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose and alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses, algae derivatives such as satiagum, natural gums such as tragacanth, synthetic polymers such as mixtures of polycarboxyvinyl acids and in particular those marketed under the names of "Carbopol®" by the Company Goodrich or of "Synthalen®" by the Company 3V SA.

The proportion of gelling agent is generally between 0.1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a process for the preparation of a composition in the form of a dispersion, the latter consisting of at least two stages.

The first step is to prepare an aqueous dispersion of particles of cubic gel as defined above, by fragmentation, using a homogenizer, of a cubic gel formed using at least one compound (i) as defined previously, water, possibly in the presence of non-ionic amphiphilic lipids water-soluble and / or hydrophilic and / or lipophilic active ingredients and at least one agent dispersant and stabilizer (ii) as defined above. The homogenizer can be rotor-stator type with high shear gradient like "Virtis®" or "Heidolph Diax 600® "or a high pressure homogenizer operating between 200 and 1,800 bars approximately (20 to 180 MPa).

The size of the cubic gel particles can be modulated by the nature and the concentration of the dispersing and stabilizing agent (ii) used.

It is of course possible to introduce, at this stage of the preparation of the aqueous dispersion of cubic gel particles, various additives and / or active ingredients in the aqueous phase.

After the formation of the cubic gel particles, the dispersing agent and stabilizer is generally found outside said particles.

The second step then consists in adding to said dispersion obtained, a oily phase possibly containing certain lipophilic additives and / or active ingredients and subjecting the mixture to mechanical stirring which can in particular be carried out at using a homogenizer of the same type as those defined above.

Various additives and / or active ingredients can also be introduced to this. preparation stage.

In particular, when it is desired to prepare a gelled dispersion, we add generally with the mixture obtained after the second step, an aqueous solution containing a gelling agent.

The compositions according to the invention in the form of a dispersion are more particularly intended for cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical use and present in different forms such as in particular a milk, a cream or a serum.

We will now give by way of illustration examples of preparation of N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivatives of N-methyl-glucamine as well as several examples of compositions in the form of a dispersion according to the invention.

EXAMPLES Preparation of N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivatives of N-methyl-glucamine. EXAMPLE A: Preparation of N-2-hexyldecyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine

In a reactor, 70.2 g of N-methyl-glucamine (0.36 moles) are dissolved in a mixture of 60 ml of water and 80 ml of tetrahydrofuran, then dispersed 120.96 g of sodium bicarbonate (1.44 moles).

While maintaining the temperature of the reaction mixture at 8 ° C., one adds drip, 109.62 g of 2-hexyldecanoyl chloroformate (0.36 moles) and leaves react for 3 hours with stirring at 5 ° C. After allowing the mixture to stand overnight at room temperature, it is filtered and concentrated. The pasty residue is then dissolved in 1 liter of acetone. After crystallization by cooling, filter then crystallize again in 0.5 liter of acetone. The crystallized product is then filtered and then dried.

100 g of N-2-hexyldecyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine are thus obtained. (Yield: 60%) melting point: 70.6 ° C.

According to the same procedure as described above, the preparation was also prepared. N-2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine (melting point: 74.2 ° C) and the N-2-butyloctyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine (melting point: 77 ° C).

EXAMPLES OF COMPOSITIONS EXAMPLE 1:

An aqueous dispersion of cubic gel particles is obtained by mixing 3 g of phytantriol and 1.28 g of water, to which 75.7 g of an aqueous solution are added containing 0.95 g of Polysorbate 40 sold under the name of "Montanox 40 DF® "by the company Seppic. The mixture is then predispersed and then homogenized, to room temperature, using a "Virtis®" homogenizer at 35,000 rpm for 5 minutes, this stirring being repeated 4 times.

To the aqueous dispersion of cubic gel particles obtained, the following is then added 0.02 g of preservatives then an oily phase consisting of 10 g of almond oil apricot and 10 g of volatile silicone oil marketed under the name of "Dow Corning Fluid 345®" by the Dow Corning Company. After stirring at temperature ambient using a "Virtis®" homogenizer at 35,000 rpm for 5 minutes, this stirring being repeated 5 times, a stable dispersion of good is obtained consistency and pleasant on application.

The average size of the droplets in the oily phase is approximately 0.51 µm (polydispersity factor: 0.6).

EXAMPLE 2:

An aqueous dispersion of cubic gel particles is obtained by mixing 2.97 g of phytantriol and 0.03 g of monosodium stearoylglutamate sold under the name of "Acylglutamate HS-11®" by the company Ajinomoto and of 1.28 g of water, to which 75.7 g of an aqueous solution containing 0.95 g of Polysorbate 40 is added. The mixture is then predispersed and then homogenized, at room temperature, using a "Virtis®" homogenizer at 35,000 rpm for 5 minutes, this stirring being repeated 4 times.

To the aqueous dispersion of cubic gel particles obtained, the following is then added 0.02 g of preservatives then an oily phase consisting of 10 g of almond oil apricot and 10 g of volatile silicone oil marketed under the name of "Dow Corning Fluid 345®" by the Dow Corning Company. After stirring at temperature ambient using a "Virtis®" homogenizer at 35,000 rpm for 5 minutes, this stirring being repeated 5 times, a stable and homogeneous dispersion is obtained.

The average size of the droplets in the oily phase is approximately 0.37 µm (polydispersity factor: 0.05).

EXAMPLES 3, 4, 5 and 6 (Comparisons)

Taking as reference the composition of Example 1 and according to the same operating mode, the following compositions were produced:

Example 3:

• Polysorbate 40 0.95 g
• Preservatives 0.02 g
• Apricot almond oil 10 g
• Volatile silicone oil sold under the name of "Dow Corning Fluid 345®" by the Company Dow Corning 10 g
• Water q.s.p. 100g

Example 4:

• Polysorbate 40 0.95 g
• Monosodium stearoylglutamate 0.03 g
• Preservatives 0.02 g
• Apricot almond oil 10 g
• Volatile silicone oil sold under the name of "Dow Corning Fluid 345®" by the Company Dow Corning 10 g
• Water q.s.p. 100g

Example 5:

• Monosodium stearoylglutamate 0.03 g
• Preservatives 0.02 g
• Apricot almond oil 10 g
• Volatile silicone oil sold under the name of "Dow Corning Fluid 345®" by the Company Dow Corning 10 g
• Water q.s.p. 100g

The mean size of the lipid droplets in the dispersions obtained by measurement using a BI 90 laser granulometer from the Company Brookhaven Instruments Corporation.

The stability of the dispersions obtained was also evaluated by observation macroscopic after 1 month at room temperature. We consider that a composition is stable when no separation of the aqueous and oily phases is observed after 1 months at rest.

The following results were obtained: Examples Size of lipid droplets Stability after 1 month Example 1 0.51µm Stable Example 3 > 1µm Unstable Example 4 > 1µm Unstable Example 5 > 2µm Unstable

The dispersion of Example 3, which is unstable, differs only from that of Example 1 by the absence of cubic gel particles. This shows the importance of these last for good dispersion stability.

The dispersion of Example 4 is identical to that of Example 3 but contains a non-water-soluble ionic amphiphilic lipid, namely stearoylglutamate monosodium. The presence of the latter does not affect stability and this example again shows the importance of cubic gel particles on stability.

The dispersion of Example 5 is identical to that of Example 4 but does not contains no dispersing and stabilizing agent, namely Polysorbate 40. Here again, the the mere presence of an insoluble ionic amphiphilic lipid does not allow obtaining stable dispersion.

It follows from this comparative study that only the presence of gel particles cubic leads to dispersions of good stability.

EXAMPLE 6 Day cream

An aqueous dispersion of cubic gel particles is obtained by mixing with ambient temperature of 2.97 g of phytantriol, 0.03 g of stearoylglutamate monosodium marketed under the name of "Acylglutamate HS-11®" by the Ajinomoto company, 0.1 g of tocopherol acetate and 1.3 g of demineralized water, to which 51 g of an aqueous solution containing 3 g of glycerin, 0.01 g of guanosine and 1 g of polysorbate 40.

The mixture is then dispersed and homogenized at room temperature using a "Heidolph Diax 600®" homogenizer with an 18 G dispersion head, at 25,000 rpm for 15 minutes, then by 4 passages at 600 bars in a homogenizer "Soavi®" type high pressure.

To the aqueous dispersion of cubic gel particles obtained (called dispersion A) , a solution B obtained by mixing the following ingredients is added:

Solution B:

• Apricot almond oil 12 g
• Sunscreen 1 g
• Volatile silicone oil sold under the name of "Dow Corning Fluid 345®" by the Dow Corning Company 12 g
• Perfume 0.3 g

The mixture is then homogenized at room temperature using a "Soavi®" type high pressure homogenizer by 4 passages at 600 bars.

A solution C obtained by mixing the following ingredients is then added to it:

Solution C:

• Cetylhydroxyethylcellulose marketed under the name of "Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS® "by the company Aqualon 1 g
• Preservatives 0.3 g
• Demineralized water 18 g

The mixture is then homogenized at room temperature using a "Heidolph RZR 50®" type paddle agitator at 50 rpm for 30 minutes.

The dispersion obtained in the form of a cream is stable and homogeneous. She easily applied to the skin, does not stick, does not stain and protects the skin against harmful effects of free radicals.

EXAMPLE 7: Anti-aging day cream

According to the same procedure as described in Example 6, a preparation was prepared day cream in the form of a dispersion by mixing the following parts:

Dispersion A

• Phytantriol 2.97 g
• Monosodium stearoylglutamate marketed under the name of "Acylglutamate HS-11®" by the Ajinomoto Company 0.03 g
• Vitamin E 0.1 g
• Glycerin 3 g
• Polysorbate 40 sold under the name of "Montanox 40 DF®" by the company Seppic 1 g
• Polyphosphonate marketed under the name of "Dequest 2046®" by the Monsanto Company 0.1 g
• Superoxide dismutase marketed under the name of "CU-ZN SOD®" by the company Bio-Technology 0.0005 g
• Demineralized water 44.4995 g

Solution B

• Blackcurrant seed oil 10 g
• Jojoba oil 7 g
• Vitamin E 1 g
• Volatile silicone oil sold under the name of "Dow Corning Fluid 345®" by Dow Corning 4 g
• Sunscreen 1 g
• Perfume 0.3 g

Solution C

• Cetylhydroxyethylcellulose marketed under the name of "Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS®" by the company Aqualon 1 g
• Preservative 0.3 g
• Demineralized water 23.7 g

EXAMPLE 8: Hydratant soap

According to the same procedure as described in Example 6, a milk was prepared moisturizer in the form of a dispersion by mixing the following parts:

Dispersion A

• Phytantriol 1.96 g
• Cetylphosphate marketed under the name of "Monafax 160®" by the company Mona 0.04 g
• Synthetic ceramide marketed under the name of "Mexanyl GZ®" by Chimex 0.2 g
• Glycerin 2 g
• L-hydroxyproline 1 g
• Polysorbate 40 sold under the name of "Montanox 40 DF®" by the company Seppic 0.75 g
• Polyethylene oxide to 8 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-8) 1 g
• Triethanolamine 0.02 g
• Demineralized water q.s.p. 61.58 g

Solution B

• Sweet almond oil 5 g
• Volatile silicone oil 5 g
• Perfume 0.3 g

Solution C

• Sodium hyaluronate 0.05 g
• Demineralized water 10 g

After homogenization of dispersion A and solutions B and C, the following solution D is finally added:

Solution D

• Mixture of polycarboxyvinyl acids sold under the name of "Carbopol 980®" by the company Goodrich 0.3 g
• Preservatives 0.3 g
• Triethanolamine q.s.p. pH 6.5
• Demineralized water 10.5 g

EXAMPLE 9: Day fluid Dispersion A

• Phytantriol 0.27 g
• N-2-hexyldecyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-glucamine such than obtained in example A 2.43 g
• Lecithin sold under the name of "Epikuron 145 V®" by the Lucas Meyer Company 0.3 g
• Guanosine 0.01 g
• Glycerin 3 g
• 3-polyglyceryl hydroxylauryl ether marketed under the name of "Chimexane NF®" by the company Chimex 0.5 g
• Demineralized water 69.09 g

Solution B

• Apricot almond oil 5 g
• Sunscreen 1 g
• Volatile silicone oil 5 g
• Perfume 0.3 g

Solution C

• Mixture of polycarboxyvinyl acids sold under the name of "Carbopol 980®" by the company Goodrich 0.2 g
• Preservatives 0.3 g
• Triethanolamine q.s.p. pH 6.5
• Demineralized water 12.6 g

EXAMPLE 10: Day cream

According to the procedure described in Example 6, a day cream is prepared in the form of a dispersion by mixing the following parts:

Dispersion A

• Phytantriol 0.3 g
• Mixture of unsaturated fatty acid monoglycerides marketed under the name of "Myverol 18-99®" by the Company Eastman-Kodak 2.55 g
• Lecithin sold under the name of "Epikuron 200®" by the Lucas Meyer Company 0.15 g
• Glycerin 3 g
• L-hydroxyproline 1 g
• D-Panthenol 0.5 g
• Polyphosphonate marketed under the name of "Dequest 2046®" by the Monsanto Company 0.1 g
• Monosodium lauroylglutamate marketed under the name of "Acylglutamate LS-11®" by Ajinomoto 0.1 g
• Demineralized water 56.85 g

Solution B

• Jojoba oil 10 g
• Di-t-butyl hydroxybenzylidene camphor marketed under the name of "Mexoryl SAD®" by the company Chimex 0.05 g
• Volatile silicone oil 10 g
• Perfume 0.3 g

Solution C

• Mixture of polycarboxyvinyl acids sold under the name of "Carbopol 980®" by the company Goodrich 0.4 g
• Preservatives 0.3 g
• Lysine q.s.p. pH 6.5
• Demineralized water 14.4 g

Claims (25)

1. Composition in the form of a dispersion, characterized in that the said composition comprises:

   (a) from 60 to 98 % by weight of an aqueous phase, and

   (b) from 2 to 40 % by weight of an oily phase, the said oily phase being dispersed in the aqueous phase and stabilized using cubic gel particles, the said particles being essentially formed of:

   (i) 0.1 to 15 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one compound chosen from 3,7,11,15-tetramethyl-1,2,3-hexadecanetriol or phytanetriol, N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivatives of N-methylglucamine and unsaturated fatty acid monoglycerides, and

   (ii) 0.05 to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a dispersing and stabilizing agent, the said agent being chosen from surface-active agents which are water-soluble at room temperature, containing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty chain having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the relative weight proportion of compound (i) relative to the weight of the oily phase is between 0.02/1 and 1/1.
3. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the said weight proportion is between 0.05/1 and 0.5/1.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the relative weight proportion of compound (i) relative to the weight of the said dispersing and stabilizing agent is between 2 and 200.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative of N-methylglucamine corresponds to the following formula (I):

   

   in which:
      R represents a branched C₆-C₁₈ alkyl radical.
6. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the said N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative of N-methylglucamine is chosen from N-2-hexyldecyloxycarbonyl-N-methylglucamine, N-2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methylglucamine and N-2-butyloctyloxycarbonyl-N-methylglucamine.
7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the said cubic gel particles contain, as compound (i), a mixture consisting-of from 1 to 40 % by weight of phytanetriol relative to the weight of the mixture and from 60 to 99 % by weight of at least one N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative of N-methylglucamine relative to the weight of the mixture.
8. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the said cubic gel particles contain a mixture consisting of from 10 to 30 % by weight of phytanetriol relative to the weight of the mixture and from 70 to 90 % by weight of at least one N-2-alkoxycarbonyl derivative of N-methylglucamine relative to the weight of the mixture.
9. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the said unsaturated fatty acid monoglyceride is chosen from glyceryl monooleate and glyceryl monolinoleate.
10. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4 and 9, characterized in that the said cubic gel particles contain, as compound (i), a mixture consisting of from 1 to 50 % by weight of phytanetriol relative to the weight of the mixture and from 50 to 99 % by weight of at least one unsaturated fatty acid monoglyceride relative to the weight of the mixture.
11. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the said mixture consists of from 10 to 30 % by weight of phytanetriol relative to the weight of the mixture and from 70 to 90 % by weight of at least one unsaturated fatty acid monoglyceride relative to the weight of the mixture.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said dispersing and stabilizing agent is chosen from:

    (1) polyol alkyl or alkenyl ethers or esters,

    (2) N-acylated amino acids and derivatives thereof and peptides N-acylated with an alkyl or alkenyl radical, and salts thereof,

    (3) alkyl or alkenyl ether or ester sulphates, and the derivatives and salts thereof,

    (4) polyoxyethylenated alkyl or alkenyl fatty ethers or esters,

    (5) polyoxyethylenated alkyl or alkenyl carboxylic acids and salts thereof,

    (6) N-alkyl or N-alkenyl betaines,

    (7) alkyltrimethylammonium or alkenyltrimethylammonium and salts thereof, and

    (8) mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said cubic gel particles also contain from 0.0005 % to 5 % by weight of at least one water-insoluble ionic amphiphilic lipid relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to Claim 13, characterized in that the proportion of water-insoluble ionic amphiphilic lipid is from 0.001 % to 2 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to either of Claims 13 and 14, characterized in that the said water-insoluble ionic amphiphilic lipid is chosen from:

    (i) phospholipids,

    (ii) fatty acid phosphonic esters,

    (iii) water-insoluble N-acylated derivatives of glutamic acid,

    (iv) sodium cetyl sulphate,

    (v) sodium cocoyl monoglyceride sulphate, and

    (vi) water-insoluble quaternary ammonium derivatives.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said cubic gel particles have a mean size approximately from 0.05 µm to 1 µm.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said particles contain at least one hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active principle.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said oily phase is in the form of droplets between 0.1 µm and 10 µm in size.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said oily phase comprises at least one lipophilic active principle.
20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said aqueous phase comprises at least one hydrophilic active principle.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is intended for cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical use.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a milk, a cream or a serum.
23. Process for the preparation of a composition in the form of a dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists, in a first step, in preparing an aqueous dispersion of cubic gel particles by fragmentation, using a homogenizer, of a cubic gel formed of at least one compound (i) as defined in Claim 1, water and at least one dispersing and stabilizing agent (ii) as defined in Claim 1, and, in a second step, in adding an oily phase to the said dispersion obtained and in subjecting the mixture to mechanical stirring.
24. Process according to Claim 23, characterized in that the first step is performed in the presence of at least one water-insoluble ionic amphiphilic lipid and/or of at least one hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active principle.
25. Process according to either of Claims 23 and 24, characterized in that the oily phase contains at least one lipophilic additive and/or active principle.