EP0481867B2 - Woven or weft knitted textile support for fusible interlining - Google Patents

Abstract

The textile support for fusible interlining consists of a woven fabric or of a woven-mesh knitted fabric. According to the invention, at least the weft of the woven or weft-knitted fabric is made from synthetic yarns, for example of 35 to 500 dtex composed of fine filaments of less than 1.3 dtex. These weft yarns are preferably textured. <??>The fusible interlining consists of the above-mentioned woven or weft-knitted fabric, on one face of which spots of heat-fusible polymer have been deposited.

Description

The present invention relates to a textile support intended for the interlining of a piece of clothing, in particular intended for constitute a fusible interlining by polymer deposition hot melt.

Such a textile support is described in FR-A-2 620 138 (cf. EP-A-0 289 378) which represents the preamble of the independent claims 1, 2, 6 and 7.

Among the supports for fusible interfacing distinguishes two categories: the textile supports themselves and nonwovens. The textile supports themselves are obtained by weaving or knitting yarns, while the nonwovens are obtained by constitution and consolidation of a layer of fibers or filaments.

The use of nonwovens as a stabilizer support has advantages, particularly with regard to the costs of manufacturing. However, it has drawbacks due to their production mode. Since the fibers or filaments are deposited in the form of a tablecloth without there being a precise control of the direction taken by the fibers or filaments over the entire width of the web, it follows that the nonwoven has density differences and surface irregularities. In addition due to this irregular distribution, in direction, fibers or filaments, the nonwoven has stability insufficient dimension: it can be deformed so irreversible under the effect of an extension, which results in the case of an interlining, poor stabilization of the part of clothing on which said nonwoven has been heat sealed.

Despite their higher price, textile supports proper are preferred in applications where The aforementioned drawbacks of nonwovens are prohibitive. The mode production, by weaving or knitting, of these supports textiles gives them homogeneity, in particular directional, which is lacking in nonwovens.

In the field of fusible interfacing, we are looking for also to prevent hot melt polymer deposits not penetrate inside the stabilizer support, such penetration having the effect of locally stiffening the support and therefore the piece of clothing. We understand that by weight even the diffusion of the given polymer is all the less easily than the surface of the support on which the polymer is closed that is to say that there is a reduced spacing between the different fibers or filaments that make up the support. Structurally, for an equal weight, the nonwoven has a much more closed surface than the textile support.

The goal set by the applicant is to propose a textile support for fusible interlining which presents the technical advantages of both nonwovens and supports textiles without having the disadvantages. In particular the support for interlining which is sought must have a stability controlled, while maintaining elasticity and resilience sufficient, and must not be crossed by the polymer hot melt when depositing it or applying interfacing on the piece of clothing.

This goal is perfectly achieved by the support for fusible interlining according to the invention. This support is of the type textile support in that it consists of a fabric or a weft knitting. In addition, at least the weft of the weft fabric or knit is made of synthetic yarns composed of fine filaments

The fact of using yarns composed of fine filaments gives the weft, which will be in contact with the polymer hot melt, a higher density of filaments by weight equal, these filaments however remaining in an orientation given. Thus this particular arrangement makes it possible to obtain a relatively closed surface without this being to the detriment of characteristics of stability, elasticity and resilience. Of unexpectedly it was found that non-penetration by hot-melt polymers, common in interfacing fusible, was obtained for weft threads composed of filaments with a titration of less than 1.3dtex.

The document EP-A-411 656, the content of which is included in the state of the technique within the meaning of Article 5h (3) and (4) EPC, describes a stabilizer iron-on fabric consisting of a woven weft synthetic, the weft yarns being composed of fine filaments having a titration of less than 1 dtex. Thus typically according to the invention, the weft of the textile support for fusible interlining is a synthetic thread compounds of fine filaments having a titration which, acting on a fabric, is not less than 1 dtex and less than 1.3 dtex and which, acting of a weft knit is less than 1.3 dtex

Preferably the weft threads in question are threads textured. Indeed, the crimp provided by the texturing gives the weft thread, in the interlining support, a volume, a swelling more important, compared to continuous filament yarns, which further increases the barrier effect vis-à-vis the polymer hot-melt and which improves the flexibility of the support. Through elsewhere, and in a known manner, the use of textured yarns allows you to adjust the elasticity and resilience of the support.

Certainly the use of synthetic yarns composed of particularly textured filaments was already used in the field of fusible interlining, but the corresponding supports had the disadvantages noted above. Merit in it is up to the requester to have thought and verified that the use of a particular type of synthetic yarn, having a count less than 1.3dtex, could overcome these drawbacks while retaining the advantages of traditional textile supports.

Much more, due to the fineness of the filaments, constituting the weft threads, the surface of the support is very regular, which has the additional advantage of facilitating the deposition of the hot-melt polymer whatever the process used.

Finally, it has been found that the use of wires having a titration less than 1.3 dtex had quite an advantage unexpected for cutting said supports in the form of a mattress. Indeed we sometimes notice that the different layers of the cut-out mattresses adhere to each other, causing difficulties in separating these layers into clothing. We can explain this phenomenon of adhesion by the attachment of the ends filaments cut from two adjacent layers, this hooking being accentuated in the case of textured yarns. But we have seen that the textile support according to the invention on the one hand was more easy to cut due to the finer titration and on the other hand once the mattress cut was made, the adhesion phenomenon mentioned above. It seems that the filaments of titration below 1.3 dtex will cut better and even break under the effect of mechanical force in the case where the cutting tool is not perfectly sharp and furthermore, said filaments being more flexible, the attachment of filaments of two layers adjacent is practically nonexistent.

It is another object of the invention to protect a fusible interlining made of a fabric or weft knit of which at least the weft is made of synthetic yarns composed of fine filaments having, in the case of a fabric, a titer of not less than 1 dtex and less at 1.3 dtex and, acting as a weft knit, a titration of less than 1.3dtex, and on a face of which were deposited points of hot-melt polymer.

Preferably the density of warp threads is clearly less than the density of weft threads. In such a case, the warp threads only intervene to link the weft threads, and the surface appearance and the volume of the textile support are imparted almost exclusively by the weft yarns of titration less than 1.3dtex, namely a uniform and smooth surface and a very good cover, particularly suitable for printing products hot-melt, in powder or paste form. It was found that it was possible to make on the supports thus formed according to the invention finer prints, with densities much larger points, for example 200 points at square centimeter, which is practically impossible on supports of the same type comprising titration filaments greater than 1.3dtex.

Other particular embodiments according to the invention are indicated in the claims 3 and 5

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description which follows be made of an example of an interlining fusible based on microfilaments.

The textile support for interlining is a knitted or woven mesh, from 15 to 100 g / m ² , produced on knitting looms of the warp or Rachel type with weft insertion. In this knitting, a thread called weft thread by analogy with weaving is introduced regularly through the stitches across the width of the knitting.

The weft thread is a textured polyester thread from 35 to 500 dtex. Each of the filaments or strands constituting said thread, has a titration of the order of 1dtex. These fine filaments will hereinafter referred to as microfilaments. The constituent threads of knit stitches are polyester or polyamide yarn textured or flat threads of 22 to 50 dtex, whose filaments have a titration from 0.5 to 4dtex.

After knitting the weft knitting undergoes a treatment thermal shrinkage.

The knitted fabric thus treated has a face whose surface external is mainly composed of weft threads and therefore microfilaments.

On this face is deposited a hot-melt polymer. The choice of polymer and the process for depositing this polymer on the face of the textile support are not features of the present invention. It could be especially copolyamide and / or thermoplastic copolyester and / or chemical derivatives of one or both of them, alone or in combination combination with other thermoplastic copolymers.

Being a fusible dispersion material aqueous, its application on the textile support of the invention is produced for example by screen-type printing on the frame rotary.

Being a powdered fusible material, its application to the textile support is carried out for example at using engraved cylinders either in the form of a mass of powder which are subsequently heated either directly under dots of molten polymers. In the latter case, the engraved cylinder is heated to a temperature above 120 ° C.

The deposition of the hot-melt polymer on the textile support of the invention can also be carried out in two stages in particular according to the teaching of document EP.0219378, namely in a first time deposition of the hot-melt polymer on a support non-stick by printing either serigraphic or cylinder engraved in hollow then in a second time transfer of polymer, after melting thereof, on the support textile.

Whatever the process used to achieve applying the hot melt polymer to the weft knit described above, it was found that, under the operating conditions normal, the hot-melt polymer remained practically in knitting surface, i.e. its penetration was limited to the first superficial micro-filaments of the constituent yarns of the weft, a necessary condition for there to be an anchoring of deposit points on the support and sufficient for there to be no local hardening of the support nor of course crossing of the stabilizer by the polymer during the constitution of the garment.

The fusible interfacing obtained has a very large flexibility and a very regular surface. It has stability perfectly controlled, while retaining elasticity and resilience adapted to its different applications.

The invention is not limited to the embodiment which has has been described as a non-exhaustive example, but covers all variants. In particular the textile support for interlining can be made up exclusively of threads synthetics composed of microfilaments of less than 1.3dtex.

In particular, the invention finds its application in satin type articles in which one of the two faces has floats which are made of synthetic yarn composed of filaments purposes with a titration of less than 1.3dtex, and which give said items a well covered area. These can either be items woven as such, or knitted articles of woven mesh double tablecloth, that is to say comprising a knitted tablecloth with a microfilament weft, linked by the mesh weave, in which straight wires are inserted, parallel to the mesh columns, which give this double tablecloth a woven satin effect. Of articles of this type are described for example in the document FR.A.2.620.138: preferably the screened threads are made of polyester textured titration less than 1.3dtex.

Claims (7)

1. Textile base material for thermobonding interlining constituted of a fabric, characterised in that at least the weft of the woven fabric is in synthetic yarns composed of thin filaments having a count of no less than 1 dtex and less than 1.3 dtex.
2. Textile base material for thermobonding interlining constituted of a weft knit, characterised in that at least the weft of the weft knit is in synthetic yarns composed of thin filaments having a count less than 1 dtex.
3. Base material according to claim 2, characterised in that it is constituted of a weft knit whose weft consists of yarns of polyester of 35 to 500 dtex, composed of microfilaments of about 1 dtex.
4. Base material according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the weft yarns are textured yarns.
5. Base material according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the density of the warp yarns is considerably lower than the density of the weft yarns.
6. Thermobonding interlining constituted of a woven fabric on one face of which dots of thermofusible polymers have been deposited, characterised in that at least the weft of the woven fabric is made up of synthetic yarns composed of thin filaments having a count of no less than 1 dtex and less than 1.3 dtex.
7. Thermobonding interlining constituted of a weft knit on one face of which dots of thermofusible polymers have been deposited, characterised in that at least the weft of the weft knit is made up of synthetic yarns composed of thin filaments having a count less than 1.3 dtex.